Handbookondressc00heck

Page 1



HANDBOOK ON

DRESS 0* CLOAK CUTTING, BY

CHAS. HECKLINGER.

1884.

NEW YORK PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, IOI AND

1

03

FULTON STREET.


Entered according to an Act of Congress

in the

year iS84, by

Charles Hecklinger, in the Office of the

ton,

D. C.

Librarian of Congress, at Washing-


PREFACE. HE

following pages contain the author's Improved System of Dress and Cloak

Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who,

desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a difficulty

— the choice of a suitable System.

The System results,

with the least

given has been found to give the greatest security

trouble,

it

greatest satisfaction to the large

being

number

easy

to

of those using

and explaining has been omitted which might tend acquiring

it.

Every point needed

illustrations, in the

rect places

to

make

simple description, and

— making

it

at

learn,

it

in

readily it.

used,

in

its

and gives the

Everything

in

illustrating

to complicate or retard the student in

clear has been carefully put

grouping the separate

down — in

its

articles in their cor-

once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole.



PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM. OST

Systems of proportion, thus

that

human

its

It will

width, can never lead to the best results.

When But

figure,

are projected on the

be evident, on investigating the proportions that a System based only on one size of the body, and

breast-measure. of the

issued,

far

this

is

the height and width are equal

only the case on normal

sizes,

is

it

immaterial which

from 34 to 38 breast, as

we

all

use.

devia-

tions from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the

widths.

The problem

to

be solved

in

using a proportionate system

is

to arrange

the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use

it

for the

heights.

In practice breast, require

we

find that the

and can be cut by the

agree, in the majority of cases, with this size

measure

will either

those indicated, the

full

average forms, measuring from 34 to 38

;

but

in

we must use

breast-measure, as the lengths

larger and smaller sizes this breast-

be too small or too large, therefore,

in

drafting any other sizes than

the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite

breast-measure, in order that the pattern

in

its

neither too small or too large.

Table of Sizes.

Breast.

full

length

may be

of correct size, and


PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM.

In

human body

considering the

characteristics exist

between a young

the large, fleshy form. for constructing

used

in

must be allowed

girl

garments

is

a

art of cutting

is

that

sufficient

and the full-grown woman

All these tend to establish that the

first

— the

and marked slender,

and

elements of a good System

good proportionate standard.

we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by thoroughly attained we also give the system as it should be

In strict accordance with

which the

it

this

;

drafting by measure.

Table of Sizes for Children.

Age.


.

•s? sr;B-;5*>; ;-- -s

Ft?.*

THE MEASURES. HE

measures required are

Have

and only such as give correct

a tape which fastens around the waist in such a

Measure from socket bone

at top of back, point

the highest part of hip, and to the

Take next

few,

full

the width of back from

O, to waist

manner I

results

that

it

(See Fig. will

be

below the tape to

1).

level.

B, for

length of garment wanted.

E

to

D, being careful to see whether the dress worn


THE WAIST PATTERN.

has this width

your measure as seems

Take

Should

in the correct place.

it

be either too narrow or too wide modify

right.

the measure around the arm-hole

move

then

;

the

arm forward

put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure of tape at

to allow

down

to

you

to

bottom

J.

Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve

down to the Turn to

wrist.

Fig.

and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the

2,

arm, to bottom of tape at

down

This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight

J.

of arm.

in front

Measure next from

arm

front of

square, having a tape attached,

Take

front of

the breast-measure

is

To

to centre of back.

take this measure, a

little

very handy to use.

over the

fullest

part of the

bosom

and shoulder blades,

then the waist-measure, always taken close, and the hip-measure.

These are For a

skirt

all

the measures required for a dress-waist, a jacket, or a long garment.

we take

the length on the side, from the hip

down

to the floor.

For

a circu-

width around the shoulders.

lar take the

FIG. 3

AND

THE WAIST PATTERN.

4.

Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N. From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back. From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line. Next, measure from

bone

to the natural waist

From F go at the

in 1

-},-

and from F draw a

inch,

and draw a

over on the top

about right for for sizes

line

to F, the length of back,

from socket

over to the front at T.

from

line for the centre of the back,

place 2 inches to the point

line,

sizes.

For large

under 30 breast-measure

what

the

A

little practice,

fit

medium

all

in

this

width

may

f

at

top to 1ÂŁ

let

be, as

it

it

over 40 breast,

sizes,

be

l.V

to V] inches.

It

marked

O

and

E

make it 2\ to will make no

B and

G

fix

it

2-i

will

be

inches

difference

point B, and in the centre, between

from both points.

Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which to

This

only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam.

(see Fig. 4),

E, locate point C, and draw lines

and add

ÂŁ.

however, will enable any one to apply the right width.

In the middle, between

B and

down

or the top of back

bottom.

From O and

f,

one

inch,

which

All fractions and divisions that

fixes

S

we use

and from S

;

in

to

H

is

6 inches for a 36

;

place one-fourth, or 4^ inches.

explanation are based on the breast-measure, and

are found already divided on the square.

At S and

H

drawing another

draw

lines up, as

to the top, at A.

shown.

Where

lines

S-J and B-J

cross,

begin by


THE WAIST PATTERN.

Now, curve from f

Commencing at

X

G

and from

to A,

curve past

J to R,

A

to G,

going a

which

trifle

last point is one-half inch

above

inside of straight line, then from

R

J.

past

to V.

From R draw

a straight line to 1^, and curve the back seam from

inside of straight line at 19, thence to

little

From

2 to 1 place 1 inch,

2.

Point 2

is

1J,-

R

by going only

a

inches from centre 1^.

then curve the side-body from 19 to

1.

Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the point

D

placed,

in

draw a

Point

This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18).

front.

from there up and down to

line

N

and

D

being

to U, at right angles with the line

under the arm.

To

form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place

N

as a pivot,

to

draw the curved

sweep from P

N

from

it

One-quarter inch inside of front

to 15.

front line to the bottom,

by going outside of

D

to P, and, using

line at 15

we

start

one-half inch and com-

ing back to straight line again, near U.

One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a From P to B draw a straight line then take the length ;

to G,

and place the same from P towards

Having located inch below

it

at 20

;

17,

curve from

it

17,

and where

above the

line of

line

from

V

one-fourth inch.

over to

12.

of the back shoulder, from

A

this reaches is point 17.

shoulder at

21,

and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to

touch A, and drop below

T

and drop one-fourth

X

;

but do not quite


THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.

10

Point

V

H

midway between S and

is

on both sides of

it

that

;

is,

;

from

it

draw a

straight line to 4; curve a little

starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then

gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at

About one-half and

more forward than the middle, between 19 and V,

inch

the centre, between

in

H, point

and

1

between

In the middle,

H

X

then draw a line from

;

and

12,

to 3

Now

and curve

X

;

it.

the middle, between 12 and

in

of 2 inches for

We

in darts.

put them

average medium sizes

all

the darts, from 6 to

Take

7, is

2 to

;

as follows

in

1-J

;

on

from

5 to 6

back

dart,

and

below

at one-fourth inch

drop point 12 a

is

From U

:

one dart of

three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8

them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to

main on the

and from

1,

this draft

be

will

little

let 9,

and between

upwards from

it

and

2 inches.

towards 13

7

the front one start one-half inch lower

10, 11

1,

inches,

2

then draw

;

12.

curve the lower line past

below the line; also drop 10 a

3,

and a below

little

trifle

it;

above

from 9 to

to

it,

T

re-

line straight across.

draft

is

now

finished

by proportion, and we can assure our readers

use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, drafting remaining the

same

it

is

applicable to

far easier to

with the

that,

manner

forms, the

all

of

in all cases.

We

All our fioures. unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. it is

it

to 5 place a distance

another dart of

is

arm and place

two-thirds of the distance under the

for the height of the

Now,

U, to

front, at

deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches,

must be taken out

cause

point

fix

13.

16 inches.

The

locate 3

4,

and D, mark point

Measure the distance from

12,

4.

add the amount necessary on

do

this be-

than to draft

different material

it

on

the pattern.

THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. The measures we waist, 15; height

under arm, 7; front of arm,

In drafting this

above

O

10-^

Breast, 36 ;

;

waist, 24

width of back,

6-|

we drop proportion altogether and use only

to get all points

manner from

shall use are the following:

on the

to the previous draft.

draft.

All the lines

and curves

by drawing a

Fig. 4 starts

line

;

;

length of natural

front length, 18V.

the measures as stated

will

O-F

come out and

O-N

three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, arid curve from

From

|-

down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a 1-i-

go down

;

-|-

line

mark a point. From f to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back. Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw

the front and go in

in similar

to A.

over to

inches and

a line to

the front.

From Z

to

D

is

one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down.

Also measure from Z to arm,

10-i-

S,

the actual width of

inches, or the blade

measure which

blade to the centre of the back.

At S and

H

is

the.

back, and from Z to H.the front of the

taken from the front of the arm over the

draw

lines up.


THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. between

In the middle

O

E mark

and

point C, and draw the lines across as shown.

From where

A

to

G

which point

Beginning thence to V.

Make

1

the lines cross at

at

is

G

This

J,

curve arm-hole past last is

point B, and

(See Fig.

draw one across

one-half inch above J,

11

in

the middle between

4.)

back at A, and curve from

to top of

J.

between

a trifle inside of line

J

and R, and from

midway between S and H.

the bottom of the back 1^ inches wide. This

is

only a medium, as

Between 19 and

2

a straight line to 1^ and slightly curve a line

curve more towards centre of back.

A

few

can be

it

more drawn to

inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam' either further back or

Then from R draw

B and E

trials will

made

to the front.

19 and to

enable you to

2.

make

a nice shaped curve.

From From

2

on back to side body

at

1

is 1

inch,

and curve from 19

V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a

separate side-body from

tance between 3 and 4

is

X

to

3.

Point

X

is

trifle

midway between

about ^ inch more than

X

to V.

to

1.

on either side of

line

R

and

V

it,

also

and the

dis-


THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.

12

Take i

and sweep from P

as a pivot

At

it

P and use point

to

reaches to

point

is

This may, sometimes, when the person

P.

and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below

shoulder point, and when

keep

its

it.

Wherever

N

it

be below the

reaches

it

the

is

even with shoulder

a point below N, so that the

line, at

neck

shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.

Wherever point P

located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw

is

the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from

G

on

it

above the

erect, reach

is

goes above we sweep at a point above

it

and of course, should

for neck,

to

N

to 15.

our measure 18A, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever

is in

line;

N

from point

a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front

length, which

will

and place

of the breast, equal to 3 inches,

from P to get point

this line

Then from

17.

17 curve above

it

A

about one-quarter

inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, to V, as

shown on the diagram.

At the

front,

draw the

gradually curving out

Measure the distance F

middle between

which

is

marked

From U

and

to

D

in

again

to

1\ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.

U, leaving out the opening between

1

and

2,

which

in

this

of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches,

in darts.

the darts

H

have one-half inch curve, and thence going

Now, one-half

which must be taken out

To produce

D we

From U go down

the line at waist, point U.

case will be 16 inches.

a trifle from 17 to 20.

line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch,

at

till

Drop

in

we proceed

the right place

which gives

and

12,

in

as follows

:

first

the centre between-

locate a point in the

H

and

another

12,

13.

we never wish

to 5 place 2 inches, as

front,

then from 5 to 6

amount

the

to

have the is

first

one dart of

dart any nearer to the 2

inches or one-half of

Between the darts leave

to be taken out.

three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches

from

draw

to

7

In the centre of each dart

8.

lines

from these to 12 and

mark

a point and

13.

One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22

is

one-half inch lower, and starting from each of

the last points curve the darts as shown. It will

be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top,

and that below the

waist-line they run

straight

down

with-

out any spring being given.

From

on

curve to 3 and 4

above

a trifle line.

1

waist-line,

Point 10

line,

is

a

little

;

but between 3 and 4

and then from 4 lower than the

to 12

line,

it

runs

on lower

while

it

rests

from 9 to T.

This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to

add that

this,

as well as the preceding, requires the adding

of seams according to material used.


LARGE

FIG. In using this

by measure,

difference being only that the

tionate

Method:

5.

LARGE

draft in the

measure

will

Breast, 44 inches; waist,

13

SIZE WAIST.

SIZE WAIST.

same way

as explained in another article, the

be larger.

We

3U

;

will explain this

by the Propor-

drafting size, 21|, or equal

to a breast-

measure of 43^ inches. It

should be understood that this

last size of

breast

is

used only

for the height, while

the original breast-measure must always be used for the width. First

draw

line

O-C, mark point O, and draw

F

a line at right angles with

O-C,

to

A;


and

22 inches;

O

From at

K

draw

to 6

K

to

K

Midway between 1

and thence past 15 and

arm-hole from 18 to the

point

is

H

is

seam above

shoulder, raise the

To draw

G

and

the last point

;

to

a

5

and

5,

fix

8 one-half inch,

side-body, place

between

G

going inside of

8,

it

desired to produce a narrow

is

and draw the

8 fully 1 inch,

inch from

1

to

1

and curve the

2,

line

from 16 to 17

F

to

and draw

4,

and then draw

3,

down, which

a line straight

point 15. Also take the distance from 2

4, fix

a point in the centre, which will be

a line from 15 to 3

now, sweep from

F

to

I,

using

A

line at 20; finish the

above the

be seen that

For the

inches

it

runs over and

Now

to

manage

lUi- inches.

in front of line E,

darts of

1|-

But as the measure

8,

draw

on to F

in

a straight line, to

again until

only

1

5 J,

it

touches line at

li to 1-2, to

3,

J

and

and

I

;

and place the

and then curve

!Âť,

to

a

it

little

It will

and one-fourth inch below breast-line

Measure from is

A

from 19 downwards past E.

it

I,

at 4.

and go

14.

3 to J

this will

;

we take out the difference inches, which we take out in two

one-half of 31i,

This amounts to

in darts.

2J

inch each.

between

H

and E, which gives point

P.

First find the centre

tween

R

put

one dart of

in

D

one-fourth inch inside of straight line at

to fix the darts:

between these two widths

to

From

:

and the same amount from

;

to

arm-hole by curving

commence

front edge,

F

as pivot; from

gradually out to one-half inch at H, and

give

3.V

distance, as on the back shoulder from

same

curve

;

shown.

lines, as

one-sixth of the breast-measure,

is

;

2.

In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given

A

it

the seam for the back from 16,

and back from

and E, mark point

on each, side of these two

little

make

When

H.

and, in the middle, between 17 and

;

for the top of back,

4 to E.

Start to

16.

inch from

thence separate and curve nicely to

be

6,

A-J.

16.

first

In the centre,

curve to

7

Also commence to curve the arm-hole from

8.

line one-eighth inch at 16,

From

inches.

2-|

line

at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising

and

a line,

up and down, thus making the front

line

one-eighth of breast,

is

one-half inch above

past 17 to

draw a

this point

at

to 6

neck; from

will

SIZE WAIST.

LARGE

14

1

1 inch.

This

Between the

width of the other dart, which

From R draw

and E, which

is

first

fixes point

and

fix

a line through the centre of the

;

and the centre,

commences 2J

dart

be

darts, let the space

also 1^ inch,

R 1

inches from

inch,

also, be-

Then

J.

and then place the

a centre in each dart.

first

dart,

and from P one through the

centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. darts are started two-thirds of the distance

up under the arm, but the front one

is

The made

one-half inch shorter.

From

J

go down

The bottom and draw raising to

1

?,-

inch and

of the waist

When

and back

to

line across to 10.

At 12 begin one-fourth inch below one-fourth inch below, draw a curved line to 5,

straight from 14 to 13.

From

to the line at 11. 3,

is

draw a

10, also

2.

the back has been narrowed on the shoulders

conform the front

to

it

;

as

we have

raised above 8

to

it

becomes necessary,

also, to

18 one-half inch, therefore,

we


LOW NECK DRESS must reduce the shoulder on the

Then

the waist

is

front the

Let

finished.

it

15

WAIST.

same amount we added, and

it

will

bring

it

to 19.

again be stated that seams must be added, except

in

the neck and arm-hole.

FIG. It will

by

this

DRESS WAIST.

be seen that the general arrangement of this draft

is

the

same

as

produced

all

System.

The will

LOW NECK

6.

pointed basque-like shape at bottom

is

made

to

whatever length desired, only,

it

be noticed, they are made short on the side just over the hips.

In

reach

making these waists low

down lower on

in

the neck, the

first

the shoulders, and, therefore,

point to be considered

we have

to draft

is

them so

that they

as to

meet

this requirement.

From S.the

original

shaped

ing to the lowness of opening

from these two

;

we go out to 10, on line D-10, 1 to H inch, same is added from O to R, and the arm-hole

draft,

the

accord-

drafted

last points.

Now, decide how low

it

should be open, and draw the curved lines from

T

to Q,

and


—

.

BASQUE PATTERN.

16

from B to is

wanted

over S to

9.

The

strap on shoulder can be

flatten the sleeve-head

made

1

or 2 inches wide.

about the same amount as was added to the shoulder

7.

BASQUE PATTERN.

This figure represents a short pointed basque as

whether by proportion or by measure.

We

producing

all

go over

here again,

it

can be produced by this System

have already

2>///e

From

short sleeve

10.

FIG.

it

If a

fully

explained the manner of

C

'

the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and

the waist

it

it is

not necessary to

being the same as any other waist.

down we

place whatever length

is

wanted

in

the back to get point

J,


BASQUE PATTERN.

From

or line B.

and whatever

and

1

put on from S to back line must

is

be also added from line at 30 to

On

drawn down,

lines are

1-J

17

28.

a short basque the back line does not

touch point

having

J, it

the width of back, at S,

and therefore

less spring, is

only a

more than

little

about one-half inch on each side

at the waist, or

of the straight lines.

From

28 curve up, to taste.

J to

wanted

If

with a high curve at side, over the hips, reach above 28

;

and when desired straight around

the bottom draw

along bottom

it

side-body at bottom

level with 28, rising

O

is

or similar

line,

shown on other Figures.

to a jacket, as

The

may

it

must

start

at S,

up towards R.

even with R, and from

it

to

O

draw the

line a little lower.

Point P it is

is

also level with

drawn so that the

O

;

thence, forward,

front point

either level

is

with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the Figure, where

The

it is

two inches lower.

But below the waist

The

same

darts are placed the

way

best

straight lines

to

line

F

on a waist.

as

they curve, as shown.

produce a good result

down from

11, 12, 13

is

and

to

14,

draw draw-

ing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will

thus be seen

that

23 comes nearly

in

the

centre of the second dart, because more curve

is

here needed for the hips, while the space between

drawn so that the distance between 21

the darts

is

and 25

only a

this

more than

12 to

13.

In

way, when the darts are sewn up they

will

is

little

at

take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.

When down and

dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the let

arm draw

the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O.

a straight line

Also take out

about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.

From this line,

15 to 20

a straight line

over the hips, to

It will

R

is

also drawn,

or point S on Fig. 4; and point is

is

middle, between line

E and

put each side of

and O.

be noticed that point 18

side-body, at the waist,

and an equal amount

15

is

the

midway between

is

made wider

in

;

the line from 18

18 and line is

K

;

the line K,

the width of the

always drawn straight down,



POLONAISE.

SLEEVE.

then divide the distance from point 19 and

through 20 draw the other

is

drafted in the

the centre of which

2,

is

20; and from 15

line.

FIG. This

19

POLONAISE.

8.

same manner

as the one given in Fig.

As, however, this

7.

long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line spring out

till

bottom, point F,

at

on side-body, one inch

at 6,

Where and point

and X, of

3

amounts

there draw a

;

curve the one-half inch over

it

On

it.

side-body lays, and

AND

line.

lines

O-E

and O-F.

Use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve, and go down from O to B one-fourth of this A is in the ;

O

From O

to

there draw a line

From B which

will

to

and

Draw

B.

F is one-half down to K.

F draw

be point

H

;

lines across.

of arm-hole,

a straight line

and from

and from

and halve

this last also

it,

draw

a short line at right angles with the diagonal line

H

from

to

J.

Measure the length of

line

and place

H

third of

it

Now, using point

4,

it

from

as pivot,

J

B-F and to

take one-

J.

sweep from

line at top,

around to the front and the back

Where down to K.

curve line past 5 to this sweep. crosses line at

Go down

G

draw a

from B to

line

C

;

from B

the sweep

three-fourths of an

inch,

and from here measure the length of arm to E.

Mark

a point

midway between B and E, which

gives D, and draw a line across. In the middle,

back,

mark

Now

between the two

parallel lines at

a point f.

lay the square in such a position on the

pattern that 5 inches will touch point

arm

E

will

to N,

E and the

long

touch/, then draw along the bottom, from

and to/.

7,

is

then finish the line

THE SLEEVE.

10.

Commence by drawing

middle between

4 there

is

one inch over

D

1-J-

on top of

from Put

same

inches, the

X

in

to 14,

two

it,

1

we

line

straight line from 4 down, through this inch,

the length also by the side-body.

fix

At

fore-part, are located lay the side-body

run only 4 inches below the hip

FIGS. 9

inch.

the side, from 5 to

of side-body, resting on X,

3,

one

to

a

is

;

and

at bottom.

resting on

3,

by the way the

darts, letting

them


SLEEVE.

20

Begin

L

from C, past

to curve

and curve

to f,

to N.

Go

in

from

D

1

J-

draw the front-seam of

inch and

the sleeve.

From X, where

the curve strikes line B, begin to

draw the under-sleeve

upper part

parallel with

6 to

1.

Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure past

I

towards

to

the measure of arm-hole, and 2 inches

If the upper-sleeve

more.

on

3,

X

and measure 16

line at 3 for a 16-sleeve.

measures 11 inches place

11

more

to

inches,

adding

2 inches

Wherever point

3

located

is

begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running straight down, curving- out to line 7 as

f

is

outside of

2,

or as

much

inside of

it.

FIG.

10.

Draw the line O-G and O-F. From O to C go down one-third, less one-half inch, and draw line over In the middle, between C and O, draw also a to K. line

from B to H.

From

O

G

to

one-

is

half of arm-hole size, and

draw

G

a line from

down-

u

li#(npillWW|l|i

wards.

From C

begin to curve the sleeve-top past

ing the top line at

Make F From E to N

sleeve.

from

H

K

past

one-half inch

Go

elbow.

From L

I.

is

and N, curving

and curve the

in

from

D

1

\

line

inch,

H, touch-

E.

an average of 5 inches.

M

to

to

I

apply the length of

lower down than

\ inches

1

to

E

it

only a

Draw

inside of tritle

K

a line

about

below the

and draw the inside seam

from C to E.

This finishes the upper-sleeve.

draw from C, curving under Point

J

is 1

The to

E and

front-seam

under-sleeve

From

J

draw down

J.

to within

and to N. is

the same as the upper-sleeve from

C

N.

In drawing

and bear

M

the

straight line to L, thence to

inch inside of H.

one-half inch of

For

in

any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole,

mind that

already included.

this

manner

of drafting; has the seams


21

SKIRTS.

FIG. 11. Cutting and making a dress very

little

importance.

any style and kind,

skirt, of

By many dressmakers

hands and blocked out by a pattern which style

the

will not

work

fit

is

is

sometimes considered of

entrusted to inexperienced

the form.

Many

fine

costumes lack

because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed.

The as

SKIRTS.

fashion for the present, and for

much

some time

care as any other part of the dress.

past, requires the skirt to

be

fitted

with

All fullness must be so arranged as to

fall

a-

into the

back breadths of the

train.

The

sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so

as to eive a straight even effect across the front

and sides and allow the

train to

suddenly

spring out at the lower part of the back widths.

The sweep.

careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to

The

necessity of fine •slopes,

and a difference of those

well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated

the dress

is

intended.

in

fall

into a fan-like

different costumes, as

when we observe the use

for

which


— SKIRTS.

2 '2

a walking dress, as

In

should be to be

it

adhere closely

skirts should

demands' of fashion, the

whatever fullness there may be

between the breadths, which reduce the

As in

size

may

fall

down

it

sides, leaving

darts are required

this,

needed over the hips down

the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides

order that the skirt

and the present

style

around the front and

all

In order to gain

the back.

at

harmony with

in

to the size at waist.

must be evident

that,

over the hips, these darts at side must be

fairly

larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller.

The bottom should have laying the gores

in a

closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre

upwards about the same length as the

of the front and extending

the back breadth another line

is

drawn

the two lines would represent a cone

and extending

table,

this will

The at

to

now

As we have

each side.

fittincr

is

effect in

far

enough up

At the centre of

skirt.

In this shape

to cross the first line.

at the point attach a string to a pin

;

driven into the

lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom

this string to the

produce a correct front width

This sweep can be gained the easiest by

a regular sweep.

every case.

cut wide

enough so

already said,

that only one additional width

much depends upon goring

is

needed

the sides as regards

the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient

The

cover the round form of the body.

result as not sloping

enough

same

defect liable to occur in this point has the

namely, the skirt

at the side for large hips,

will hitch-up

on

the waist-band.

Putting on a skirt to the band

width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body fullness should

All the rest of the

band

after the front

We

A

of equal importance.

is

in

dart in the apron or front

front; so also do darts at side.

be pleated or gathered into the few inches

left

of the

and sides have been sewed to the band.

should not advise any one to cut out a

out a good pattern, unless they understand

skirt,

how

to

whether short or with

draft

train,

with

one and know the points of

the different shapes in gores.

Such

skirt patterns

order that students

may

we

are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in

acquire an idea of

how

to cut them, Fig. 11 will

show

the general

form and shape of them.

Draw

line A,

and make

it -45

mark

inches long, and

shown by the number of inches given

at all these points

off all the distances ;

draw

on the

line, as

lines across at right angles

to line A.

Draw

a line from

point 6 to 12 and curve

curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to

it

6-|

to within one-half inch of

on

line A.

6,

and then

This finishes top of front

breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom. Finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from like

Figure

;

at the

bottom, curve from 12 to

Connect points 32 and part

;

42, also

this will give a skirt 38 inches

Lay the In

pleated

front part, line A,

sewing in

to

22 and

7

to

11,

curving these lines

42. 12,

by straight

lines,

which

finishes the

back

long and the prevailing width.

on the fold of the goods.

the band the front and side-breadths are

three or four large pleats.

left

plain while the back

is


SACK JACKET.

FIGS. 12, 13, 14. It will

manner

first

commence

ZrneC.

3~~

From

SACK JACKET.

be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted

as the principle

We

23

O

1

employed to

in the

construction of the waist-body or basque.

draw the back

line

B and

O

to

F

(Fig. 12).

—0

'/-

down, on the

first line,

place three-fourths of an inch, and from

one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average Starting at

the same

in

-3-,

measure down

of the hips; also to

E

over to F,

size.

to C, the length of natural waist,

the length wanted.

O

and

to D, the full parts


SACK JACKET.

24

From C up

place the height under the arm.

Now

at

from

|,

Go

from

in

C

to

N

and then draw a

inch,

1-J-

point to E, and curve the back-line, as

From N

to

M

make

From

go inside of between

O

From

G

and draw a

B, fix point A,

A-J and G-S

line at J

draw a

I

Draw

draw a

cross

N, then

line to

trifle

commence

at

E

whatever the distance

it is

make

desired to

point 5 would also be nearer to

Cut the back

out,

and

that there will be

to

D-F

Lines

Draw from and curve

to 10

and I,

downwards

Curve from

About

1

wide from

drawn from

is

from

line

over to

line

J.

S

to

last

then from S

;

point

is

midway

2 to

3

to 3

room enough

to cut

are extended over.

along the back, to

I

cross. it

is

to

too

to

H

Make

is

8,

which

6,

H

4 to

5,

2

;

and the

5.

E may be

nearer to 3

in

;

such case

the side-body lay it

on the papsr

in

such a

out without piecing.

From

13.

2 to 10 is 1 inch in

and from thence begin

is

it

every case.

from the back

to separate

the point on the back where line

O

and the

line

curve, not springing out too

and K.

K

draw a

line

down

to

L,

which should make the side-body

as 10 to L.

drawn past

may

M.

must be placed from

is

11 to

draw one down from 10 from 3 to

5

be a

little

to

3.

and another from L

should be placed from 4 to

6,

to

4.

and then the

6.

the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to

7 to 11

8,

one-fourth of the breast-measure.

whatever the distance

seam from L

to

from N, and to 4 from

From 6 down give this line a nice fiat — a medium is what is desired.

inch inside of 8 to

side-seam to

line for the

4.

order to draw

in

F down

a narrow back, point

right angles with waist-line

Now

is

O

and down

much nor making From B to K

from

F

This

I.

and draw

I

THE SIDE-BODY.— FIG.

At

S.

line to F.

and thence with a decided curve

a right-angle line with the waist-line

In case

2

up to

and from there draw a

and curve the arm-hole of the back

back may be finished by drawing the

from

line

one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from

J

going inside of straight line a

manner

past R.

f,

and G.

J

Now

and

the point where lines

Raise above

and from the

at top, to N,

the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.

between

In the middle,

line

shown from

Starting at R, place the width of back to

as

every one of these points

lines across, all at right angles with the first line.

draw

last

B

to

more than

that from 9 to

6,

as

;

also notice that the distance

more ease over the

hip, at side,

desirable.

THE FRONT.— FIG. All the lines are extended over on the paper,

14.

and the side-body and back are

when they were drafted, and as shown. measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw

laid in

the position as First

line

A

up and down.


SACK JACKET.

From B

to

R

is

L'O

the measure to the front of the arm, where a line

P back, place one-sixth of the breast

Measure up from

star

on

side,

to N, here

marked

draw a

Z, to line at

line

From this height draw a line to A, which gives From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. S on

to N,

on

line

N, and where

up.

From

as shown.

N, the front length

less the

width

^—P

of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line

to

drawn

up and down,

S

F

is

it

fix

the height.

the height of shoulder.

Place the length of back shoulder from

reaches will be point 22. r \


DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

26

Drop line, to

one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which

Draw

R

Also curve arm-hole from 22 through

N.

one-fourth above the

is

H.

to

the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V,

coining back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20.

From H, through

L,

draw

line to 11.

Whatever the distance from

Sweep

L, through 12, to 13. this

11 to 24

is

place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from

the bottom from 13 by a point

N

and

flatten

curve near 14.

Midway between R and V

point

fix

Measure the distance from the Deduct the half

and midway between

front at

from

size of waist

2,

U

Fix a point at right

in

this last

the centre of the darts and

and

2

out

point

1.

is

taken out

in darts.

in darts.

straight line from

angles with waist-line draw lines from centre fix

R

2 to C.

and the remainder

draw a

Now, one-third of the height under arm, down,

Draw

and from

to 10

From U to 12 is 2 inches. From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken From to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch. From 8 to 7 is another dart. and

inch back of

1

point

down

of dart

and make

3,

1

and to

2 to 6

and

5

;

bottom.

the

4 one-half inch more.

the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

FIG. 15.

Draft by measure waist

14-^,

and

full

— breast,

36

;

waist, 24

and

hip, 40.

will

it

occurs

when

it

is

away with the

It is

the same principle,

but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole

Commence by drawing

over-lap-

drafted altogether, as in our

previous articles on proportionate cutting.

O

to

endeavor to show how to draft

a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing

and

Length

length, 26.

By using these measures we ping of patterns as

;

in

the skirt.

the back construction line from

O

to

L

to P.

From O down is three-fourths inch to T. From O to E is one-fourth of breast 9 inches. From T measure down to the waist 14 ^ inches, and

—

plength to L, 26 inches, and from

and curve the

B

K

is is

midway between 6 inches

At F go from

T

to

over on top line to 5 two inches,

and E.

below the waist

;

now draw

all

the lines across.

1^ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back,

to 7

and one from

full

top, T, to 5.

H, and spring out three-fourths inch

From E 3,

in

O

O

the

is

5 to

at

9,

thence to L.

one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. 3.

Draw

a line up from 7 to


27

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

Raise above 3 one-half inch to the curved line from

Point 6

and from

Now

2

is

-4

to

then curve the shoulder-seam of the back

a straight line

3

and

down

Make

7.

the width of the back at waist 2 inches,

2

to 10 at bottom,

of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect

THE Cut out the back and lay line

form also

to the bottom.

curve the side seam from 6 past

on the same

;

6.

midway between

draw

4,

it

the

is

three-fourths

10 by a line.

SIDE-BODY.

on the paper

further towards

L and

which point

in

front, so

such a manner that the breast-line that there will be sufficient

will lay

room

at the


DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

28

bottom

to draft out the side-body whole.

6 to 2

go

in at 2

13

draw

;

At

one

inch,

Now,

draw along the edge of the back from

first

and curve from the blade down

a straight line

to 13.

down, and curve out from 13 to 18

underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw to 20,

which

From

is

the

14 to 13

same length is 2

inches,

a straight line from 12 to 11,

Go over

1-i-

be exactly

this last will

;

it

with a slight curve

as point 10 of the back.

and make the distance from

and down

11 to 12 the

out from 15 to 10 one inch, and curve seam from 11 to

Draw

inch outside of straight line.

same; now draw

to the bottom.

line

from 20 to

which should not be

10,

19.

THE FRONT. Lay the side-body on

breast-line

breast-line of each lays correct ./"'?*'-

and

and back

straight, then

position against side-body, so that the

in

measure from

the centre of the front at this last point

draw

on centre of the back

I

to

D, half-breast, or 18 inches;

a

line

up and down

for front

line.

now be

Point 12 of the side-body will point 21 of the front; draw slight curve to

shape

in

down

at waist

to 27 a line with a

also

;

the same as

draw a straight

down from 27 to 35 at bottom. From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and same to 23, now sweep the neck from P. From C, which is one-halt inch above the top line

for erect or ordinary builds,

the

line

on the line draw one to B

on the back.

Now

measure the length of shoulder on the back

from 5 to curve a

-4,

little

and place the same from C above

it,

on side-body forward 4^-

inches,

where a

as

shown

to front of

line

is

H

and

arm-hole from 22 to

in

to 22,

From

Fig. 15.

arm

is

drawn from

33,

to 34

H

;

then finish

21.

;

laying the side-body, point

comes

is

From

G

one-fourth, or

Finish the side-seam by going out at 31

and curve seam

and

1

inch to

also locate the length 12,

on

21,

by

and where 19

34.

C,

by

straighten this

34,

some

At the centre of

sweep the bottom of in

front

and

the centre.

breast-line,

beyond D, put one-half

of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S,

where

to the it.

it

comes back

bottom

at 30,

to the straight line,

where

it is

and thence

one-half inch outside of

For a double-breasted jacket make the

lap

2.V

inches


29

SACK JACKET.

and 2ÂŁ

at waist,

at breast, 2

points S to

Whatever the

at bottom.

of the draft at waist, from

on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out

1J,-

we take out one

In this Figure

dart only, starting in the centre,

and D, and take out between points 25 and

26, the full

above

or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds

below the

size

in darts.

J,

which

amount which 25,

is

will

between

H

be about 2^

and finishing about 4 inches

hip-line.

two darts are preferred they are put

In case

in as

already shown in previous Figures.

SACK JACKET.

FIG. 16.

This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart

The

front.

in

the

correctness of the lines, and the simplicity

much benefit to our students. same as we have given in several

of the process, will be of

This method

is

different styles,

manner.

the

and therefore

kinds of garments, and our aim

shapes

ment they may be do

in

and

its

styles, so that

called

whatever gar-

it.

Let us take a size

— 36

waist, with

24

breast,

length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching

neck

application

they will be able

cut

to

to draft all

giving the different

to familiarize our readers with

is

to a variety of shapes

to

drafted in a similar

method

only one

requires

It

it is

a

down from

15.V inches.

In drafting,

first

draw the

From O go down

O-F.

line

three-fourths inch for the top of

the back.

From waist,

1

5

D

the top of the back to

the length to the

same point down

inches; from the

i

is

bottom of the garment measure 30 inches

At

D

go

in to

point 14

inch.

l-l-

to the

to F.

Then from

the top

of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw

one from 14

to F, curve

Make

14, past 20, to F.

and run a

inches, 2 to 29,

and curve

it

from

is

O

9 inches,

over to

K

a

C

to

G

is

with

backdine from

shown on the Figure.

one-quarter of the breast,

and draw a

line across.

Draw

a line

at right angles with the back-line.

In the middle, between

From C

as

trifle,

to

below

the width from 14 to 2 two

line parallel

From O go down which

slightly over the line

O

and C,

one-third breast and

fix 1

a point

marked B and draw

inch, equal to

7

inches,

a line over to N.

and draw

a line at right


30

SACK JACKET.

G

From

angles with line C-G.

centre of back, to

1,

J,

at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-

measure, equal to 18 inches, and at

rise

up and down

line

like line

K-J

S.

above the

and H.

commencing

then,

curve the shoulder, letting

at 13,

it

last line one-half inch to 14.

Starting three-fourths inch 17

draw a right angle

J

From O to 13 is 2 inches. From N to 13 draw a line, and

and

one-fourth breast, equal to \\ inches, there draw

is

one under arm.

a line at right angles with the

From

H

to

inside of line

In the middle, between

N

and G,

Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and To draw the first side-body place from

back.

G

begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to the point to start seams from for the

fix

29

— this makes the back with narrow shoulders.

2

to 3

one

curve the line from 19 to

inch,

3,

gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to

Below

get a neat curve.

thence downwards,

Make it

the

bottom

at the

it

till

at hip, 21,

back

will over-lap the

it

meet the back, and

will

inch to 30.

1

the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and

same

Lay

till

curve toward the back

3

at waist, or

from 3 to

4,

Then curve from

3 inches.

17 to

make

4.

a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in

this position

mark a

line

along

it

from the hip-line downward, and connect

by a curve

it

from 4 to 24.

Go

in

careful to

from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to

commence

to separate side-body only \\ inch

below

Lay

17.

5,

but be

a straight-edge, as

and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23. before, at 17,

From

17 to 18

may be

only \\ or

size— 2 inches

inches, according to the

2

will

be

sufficient for a 36 breast.

Draw

a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape

lay a straight-edge against 18,

hips

downward; curve from

Commencing edge against

18,

and three-fourths inch from

it

to the form.

and mark along

6,

it

Again,

from the

6 to hip.

at 18, curve the front to

taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-

7,

and three-fourths inch from

7

mark along

it

below the hips and

finish the

curve from 7 to 25.

To produce same from

K

to

the front, place from 16.

From P

to

back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to curve to

it

above

this line,

and

H, going outside of the

at 15

line

consideration go beyond point

Curve the

coming back

K

to

B draw a line, then P to produce point drop

it

enough

H — rather

Add beyond

where

last

Measure from 14

it

curve to

2,

breast, equal to 3 inches, also the

place the 15,

go

same distance

arm hole

a

At

15 curve the arm-hole

good shape, but under no

inside.

inside

of 16, and outside at

J

one-half inch, and

should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at 1

inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket,

3 to 4, 5 to

6,

and

as on the

or the length of front shoulder,

one-half inch below.

to give the

front-line one-fourth inch

to R,

P one-sixth of

7 to

the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24,

all

S.

the

way down.

R, which will be about 15 inches; but as

we must

take out the difference

in a dart,


SACK JACKET.

which

is

draw a

3 inches.

Divide the space between

straight line down.

Go down

from

I

H 2

and

31

J

which gives point

inches to

place one-half of the dart, 1| inch, then curve from 17 to

point to 10, 28 and 36.

The bottom

of the

At

first

the bottom

1

8,

On

and from

first

;

this

each side of the line at 9

27 and 35

;

also from the

same

should be three-fourths inch.

side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back

second the same length as the second, and curve forward

it

17.

I,

and the front must

inch below line 33 to 37.

start

at the

same length

;

the

as the


SHORT JACKET.

32

FIG. 17.

SHORT JACKET.

This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. are the

same

As regards the

as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in

darts

all

points

two side-bodies we only

cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required

make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket. The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go to

with

this.


—

JERSEY BLOUSE.

JERSEY BLOUSE.

FIG. 18. Draw

line

three-fourths inch. centre,

From O

between B and D,

J Go 2

in

from

E

1-i-

is

G

to

6.

to

D

to

D

is

to 20

take one-half the distance to get poin-t B, and

From

point C.

20 to

E

is

length of back and to

inch and draw the back-line from 20 to

From

From O

one-fourth of breast.

F

the

full

in

is

the

length.

6

inches for top of back to

up from

O

From

O-J and O-F.

33

6

Curve arm-hole from \\ inches on a 36 breast.

2.

From

draw one 1

D

to 2

through

Draw

is

one-third of breast and

and curve

9 to

a line up.

1

inch above

From G to H From back, near D,

10.

and

17,

inch to G.

1 it

to F.

at

From O is Draw a line

1.

is

one-fourth of breast

to

K

is

one-half of breast.


— GIRLS SACK.

;:i

Draw line up and down. From J back to is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3. From to 6 draw a line, Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, I

I

and curve the arm-hole from 18 to

Make

the width of back

Then curve

at bottom.

go

Draw 3

16

in 3 inches, to

and

Lay

and

and

1

l. ,,

the side-seam at 10 to 5

inches,

and

Point 10

to 10,

inches from

53,

1-L

inch from G.

inches to point 10, and 10 inches

',M,

From

and U.

J,

about

is

N, at front of the waist,

to 4 6 inches.

down through

a straight line up and

to 5

4,

4.',

H

and

17,

16,

and form the

from

dart,

20,

through

6.

the back on the front to meet at 10, 5

L

on V,

8

on U, to get the right curve

for

the side seam.

Measure the waist and make the distance

at

V

to

correspond with

it.

Using

as

I

pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.

Add

one-half inch button-stand, and

Buttons should be

The Jersey

The seams

finished with standing collar. is

intended only for goods which are elastic

like stockinet or tweed.

the dart and at side should be stretched

in

allowing them to

inch apart.

1

is

This pattern

the side the buttons are sewed on.

inch on

1

fit

somewhat

in

pressing, thus

closer to the form.

GIRL'S SACK.

FIG. 19. This

The

a sack

is

a

for

young

girl

figure illustrates a very jaunty

For the

Season

Fall

it

of

size

31

breast,

and comfortable

close-filting.

jacket.

should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of

a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish

is

obtained by binding

it

with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid. It

has

buttons

eight

small turn-over

front,

in

which allows

lapel,

is it

cut

single-breasted, with a very

to be buttoned

up close

to

the

neck.

A on

side

edge

is

imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put

it.

The

full-size

pattern

may be

sented, using inches for every In order that this

^00

manner

may

make any

not

First

draw a

of doing

it

may

cut by following the Figure, as repre-

number marked

out.

be readily understood we will go over this

again, so that our readers

who

desire to take

them

off

mistakes.

line

on the edge of paper, and draw out the back

first,

by fixing a point

at the top.

O marked

is

the starting point.

f, 2f, 5f,

Draw

13,

From O go down

in

inches as indicated by the points

20 and 34.

lines across

from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these


GIRLS SACK.

lines.

When

all

35

these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the

outlines of the back.

For the side-body use the same process and you

made double-breasted by adding

1

J,

will

have the

inch in front of the breast

all

the

full

size.

way down.

It

can be


86

l'.RAIDED

IACKET.


DOUBI.E-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.

C

37


DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET

BRAIDED JACKET

38

— LADY's

JACKET.

BRAIDED JACKET.

FIG. 20.

This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear.

They

made

are

having the buttons close together, and have the ap-

single-breasted,

The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a to the front. round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding. The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 3(3 breast, 25 waist the length may be regupearance of a Jersey.

;

In drafting this pattern use inches for

lated to taste.

all

the figures on the draft.

DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.

FIG. 21.

The

This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket.

front

is

double-breasted towards

the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button In order to enlarge the draft to full size, for all the figures

The The

on the

jacket itself

should appear,

The

The

jacket

is

style

new

it

and general

added on

effect at

which

will

be acceptable to

It

is

made with

a moderate addition

and the button holes are worked

to the fore-part,

many

once denote the character of the garment.

outdoor wear.

now used

together, as the buttons

LADY'S JACKET.

style of lady's jacket,

well adapted for

for double-breasted

This garment, as

seen by the illustration.

drafts illustrate a

for street wear.

put on to the cape.

is

held together by an agraffe ornament.

is

FIG. 22. These

a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches

finished at the neck with a collar, which

is

may be

is

draft.

the neck,

front, at

which

used.

is

are so very small

;

therefore,

on

this jacket,

in close

they are

placed only one inch apart.

The

A

medium made at the

waist

lap-over

is

is

length,

and the

skirt can

be made to

suit the height of the lady.

centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close

together.

The pockets may be put

in

at the side

like a coat pocket, or

leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening.

ornamented with buttons.

Pockets, however, are only put

in

only a flap put on,

In the latter case

when

is

it

it

can be

cut longer than

Figure.

The

sleeves are narrow, finished by a

This

by the measure of the arm.

is

row of buttons, and can be regulated

in

width

very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve

as close as possible.

The

darts are cut

point, as a

that It

it

down

to the bottom,

which

is

more preferable

seam looks better which runs continuously

reaches only to the hip,

must always be borne

in

will,

mind

to the bottom.

to

running them to a

Cutting the dart so

unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at

that the spring

must be allowed

its

lower end.

to rise at the side-seam.


39

lady's jacket.

The sudden difference

rise of a

between the

and the marked

lady's hip,

size of the waist

and of the

body but a few inches below, make it extremely freedom difficult to obtain the necessary amount of for the

prominence of the

figure at

this part of the

body.

The bottom edge

of this

jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk,

which

is

held on tight

so that the edge

may

cling

close to the dress-skirt.

The

collar

is

cut like a

coat-collar

and the

rolls short.

A

lapel

narrow bind-

inch wide ing o one-half put on the edge on

goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material,

the

stitching

more

looks

appropriate.

The

button-holes run

the bottom of the of jacket

skirt.

makes up

down

to

This form

well

in

fine

diagonal or brocaded velvet.

For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will

make very

stylish gar-

ments.

The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the

Figure, and then

it

is

equally as well adapted to be worn

with any dress, as illustrate.

in

the shape

we

is

all


SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.

40

SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.

FIG. 23.

Figure 23 represents a long,

They

are

of inches on each line

as

body, front and sleeve.

number

close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, sideall

drawn by measuring the

lines,

and placing the

designated by the numbers shown on

the

Figure.

Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and

draw the finish

lines across at rigfht ang-les with the line O.

these figures are

all

located,

by drawing the outlines.

Draw

the straight line

the figures on the lines F"or the front,

The

sleeve

is

— when

//$

at

these are line

when these are drawn from O down as

width, as

right angles with

6y

to the desired length for the side-body; at

;

inches for length as well

drawn

O down

draw the straight

both length and width

line

When

all

apply

fixed curve the outlines.

down from O, and mark all

"28.V

the

number

of irches for

fixed finish the outlines.

to the required length, applying the

shown

;

after these

have

the line O, draw the outlines.

all

number

of

been found, and the

After the upper part of


JACKET OR CLOAK.

the sleeve has been drawn cut

out

it

41

then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay

;

draw

the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and it

the back of upper-sleeve

like

draw

;

the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and

fix

for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as

JACKET OR CLOAK— FROM A WAIST PATTERN.

FIG. 24.

The method which that can be used,

and

little

explained below

is

will invariably

one of the most handy, as well as the

is

produce good

must have the essential

that the original pattern

would be of

results.

It is

qualities of

evident, in the

and good

fit

when

are prepared to furnish these patterns

or have

it,

on hand

it

first

place, it

In order to get in

;

easiest,

otherwise

lines,

value as a base or guide to produce another garment.

such a waist pattern one must be able to design

we

shown.

the latter case

ordered.

THE back: draw a

In drafting a jacket pattern, first

O-G)

line (like

on the edge of your paper.

Lay the back against the line at O and within \ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3. Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length 1

;

O

wanted from

and

to 5

and then curve outside of

Make from

draw a

line at 10 than at

H

this, at

line

point

over to

From

10.

draw a straight

5 to 9

to

7,

7,

and

down

to 10.

This line should be no further away from the

first

same

or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the

Now,

7.

line

starting at

4,

line,

about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.

8,

the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point

this point

from

and draw a

9

slightly curve

to

as at waist,

and go one-half inch outside of

7

straight line to 10.

THE SIDE-BODY. In this case, as on the back,

O

to 10.

Now

From

in

ance on the back, as from 6 to

7.

seam.

as possible the first

line

9,

from

it

is

point 9

square across to 3,

past

to the waist.

as

same shape

7,

to 10.

The

;

10,

is

O, and swing

at

O

to 1\.

O

it

away from the

Then move 1

straight line from

draw a

to

line at the

the pattern one-fourth

to 3 just one-fourth inch for

one-half the distance allowed over and above the allow-

Now

curve the side-body from

as the original.

which runs from

length, which

At

5 to 6

we do

which would leave from

the last line,

go

the

it,

thing

Trace along the pattern from

away from

for the

first

lay the side-body against

waist 1] inch. inch

the

to 10.

Then from

Now

5

draw a

apply the back from

2 to 5,

line

keeping as nearly

down

2 to 9

parallel with

and regulate the

then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to

and

also

draw a

straight line from 1{ to 10,

This curve should be more round near

hip, or

it

actually

to curve

begin to curve closer

curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to

thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than

and begin

9.

is.

8,

may be

gradual,


[ACKET OR CLOAK.

4-2

THE FRONT. First line,

draw the straight

touching at the centre

bottom

at

3.

line like of

O-B.

Lay the

fore-part

the breast, B, and trace along

Next move the pattern back one-half

of the pattern it

inch to B.

at

against this

the front from

On

to the

Trace along the arm-hole

without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a neck.

1

trifle

at

the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-

body on top of the

front,

touching point 15, and at the waist at

20,

and

finish

the balance


WALKING COAT.

from 20

to 22

Now

by the side-body.

from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom,

point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at

bottom

at the

curved by a sweep, straighten

two darts inch,

and a cut It is

darts can be

ance

this

under the arm from 16

as well as

in

any manner.

in

where

it is

a collar for this jacket

intended to

from curved line of neck at 13 to 11

roll,

is

from

line

one-half inch

down from

this

line

one inch and curve the break, as shown from

11 to E.

From

line at F,

and thence along the neck

11 to 13

draw a

which

to E,

then drop

;

make

11 to 12

^ inch

is

curve this also to neck-

;

and shape

From

to the front.

the part of collar which

to 2 inches wide,

is

to turn over

1^-

to the front at G.

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.

AND

FIGS. 25 By using

26.

WALKING

COAT.

a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-

coat can be cut in the most ready manner.

The back

the

is

same

measure from the top down

From

as a sack-jacket.

to the length of

here add the lap for pleats

;

only 1^ inch; box pleats, according to

The

side-body

is

We

open

only

skirt A.

single pleats require size, 2 to 4 inches.

cut off at a length to correspond to 2

on back, plus one-half

inch,

and curved up some towards

side seam.

The

front

is

made

as long as the

bottom swept from the shoulder-point. leave the skirt in pieces as

Now

1,

2,

3

and

side-body, and the

When

cut

it

will

4.

take these pieces and lay them down, closing at

hip, so that

the opening will be no

more

at

bottom than

at

top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.

Now 4

draw along the

draw towards

10,

5,

skirt at

back from 4 to

raise one-half inch

curving pattern at front.

a straight line, and

front, at B, 3 inches, at waist

after

15.

From

above the pattern

to

it

has been

Instead of

one can be increased one-hall

to 17.

out altogether without altering the bal-

left

To produce C,

and

used, as shown,

intended for plush goods the

is

B draw

At the bottom,

as shown.

it

evident that two darts can be put

when the same

one, or

is

also taken out

is

3 to

one-half inch above the sweep in the centre.

it

back only one

at the

and shape

3 inches,

From

B.

Figure given, add on to the

for a double-breasted jacket, as the

2^ inches,

43


WALKING-COAT.

44

Put

Add

11 to 16 trace alone the

front,

and also alone the bottom.

the pleat behind.

The the

From

in a dart at 7.

side-body

in this

Figure

is

laid in a closing position at side, point

seam must have a continuous curve from

The

distance from

1

and

2

to

3,

1

and

with

to the front,

inch

is

show

that

noted, and the skirt

11 should be just the

more added, which

fore the skirt will

and

4 to 5-7 1

to

2 to the front.

and from there from

2,

is

seamed on

be noticed that

in

is

pressed

same in be-

to the fore-part.

It

laying the pieces of the

of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13,

but at the top and bottom they are sep-

arated, equal

one opening, the

distances, the

and

amount the

forward.

The

inch

1

fullness

cut at 7 fullness

is

reduces equalizes

greater at 9

and

addition for single and double-

breasted in front

is

made by adding on

of the fore-part and also

on to the

skirt

breasted

inch

for a

1

:

for a single-

is

enough, but

double-breasted from 2 to

3 inches

is

required.

^^


DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

FIG. 27. Commence System

and

this

by drafting on the same principle as

— by drawing line from

to 10 2 inches;

from 11

O

to F.

to 10

O

From

go down

Draw

;

at C,

O

a line from

and F draw right angle 11

to

l.1,,

all

drafts

to 11

— by the

Proportionate

three-fourths of an inch,

curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of

the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to

32 inches

45

and one from

D

.V

to

and

to

F

the

full

length,

From C to the back is 1^ F; make the width of back from

lines across. 1

18 inches

inch

;

14 to


4G

2

From O

inches wide.

G

to

and

B

to

midway between these two points

is

4{,

down from

also

J,

Where

A

line

M

inch above

From Y

inches.

Commence

to

inch, equal

1

J

;

draw

lines

over from

G

from

to 7 inches;

to

A and B. From H is one-fourth of

one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G,

is

J to N.

draw another

crosses line G, at M,

and draw

to V,

JACKET.

one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch

is

one-third of breast and

is

breast, or

H

A

and

breast,

B

NEWMARKET

DOUBI.E-ISREASTED

to 10

;

raise one-half

a curved line from 10 to V.

V

arm-hole from

to curve the

M

from

line

M

to

and H, dropping one-fourth inch below

breast-line at 15.

between

In the centre,

M

and G, begin

draw the back

to

to 2 at waist,

with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from

C

equal to that from

Go where

S,

it

and

20.

down from

;

From L

to

Curve the neck

V

U

;

piece under the

is

I

and

A

to

I

on the front from

one-half inch,

arm

I

to

and

1

J,

inch above the line S-1S.

U

;

raise slightly

seam which runs

draft.

same down from L

U

it

to T.

and place the length of shoulder from

line,

shape the front of shoulder by dropping below

above

Point

line at

at 12.

to

H, going out beyond the

line

H

at

13 about

inch.

Draw from

T, at the front, outside of

inside of front line one-fourth inch at

In the middle, this

and H,

the

distance,

fix

between

J

K

and

one-half inch, thence to

J

N

taking out

1

and H, locate a point inch between 2 and

3,

;

from 8 to

at

to

which

and

between the

darts,

is

at waist,

going

will

From K

in the centre,

between

across the waist, measure

1-?,,

be 16 inches; deduct the

from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches,

7,

K

bottom.

for the dart,

From K

darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each.

one dart

P

to point

another point for the back dart.

size of waist, 12 inches,

is

3

inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches

is 1-|

draw a straight

Finish drawing the arm-hole from

one half

is

one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the

from

be about

seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4

should be shaped somewhat like

this

will

under the arm to

line

level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front

The

Z

to

the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14,

curve up to 21, which latter point

same

5.

from 4 to 5

make

3 to 4, curve the

From S

on the

10 to

one inch and shape the side-body from

ease over the hips; also

give

is

2 to 3

F

there,

2.

touches the back;

it

same from

the

20

from

in

to

and from

to 9

three-fourths inch

is

;

is

to

be taken out

2 inches;

from

in

from 9 to 8

7 to 6 is

another

About 2^ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N

dart of 2 inches.

and at

N

6,

it is

;

one-half inch below straight line.

Make

the lapel straight on

centre of breast,

To draw line to R,

the back.

in

its

inside edge,

and

2

inches at waist, and 3 inches at

width, and shape like Figure.

the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a

then curve

it

about one-half inch more over the hips.

From S draw

Regulate the length by

the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body


47

TRAVELING ULSTER.

N

at 21,

thence to

put

two cuts on the

in

Should

it,

;

from

N

forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down

hip, of one-half inch each,

on measuring, be a

little

and the

skirt will

be right to

fit

;

also

the body.

too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever

overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.

A

flap can

be put on over the

FIG. 28.

A

Spring and Fall garment

Figure and

is

hips.

An

ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.

TRAVELING ULSTER. for

traveling or outdoor wear

is

represented by this

a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged

by simply using inches

for the

numbers marked upon

traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons

down

it.

The

to the bottom,

draft

is

a close-fitting

and has a

collar

which


TRAVELING ULSTER.

48

turns over, as represented by iron,

at the

nicely.

lower edge, before

Fig. it

is

5.

sewed

The back has

is

always adopted by tailors

at its centre,

front has a large dart cut in

attached to the body

— but

the hips pockets are put

For use

makes

a

in

as a traveling

handsome

in

it

is

street paletot

it

will

cling

around the neck

superior to the usual custom of or other ladies' garments.

which can be put

lap,

— that

sewed

covered with liberal

garment

may

in

a box-pleat or

has a simple pleat.

one piece

the side-body

far

is

it

making jackets

below the waist, a

lapped over like a coat, and at the side

it

on, in order that

This way of making and sewing on a collar

dressmakers, and

The

This collar should be well stretched with the hot

is,

in

like a sack coat,

having the

as cut, in a separate piece.

skirt

Over

flaps.

be well to make

when made out

out of waterproof cloth, but

of diagonal cloth or melton.

73

Fig. 29.

it

7k


NEWMARKET.

FIGS. 29

AND

accordance with the directions.

First

NEWMARKET.

30.

This style of Newmarket has only one

draw

49

dart.

Proceed to make a

a straight line 0,

and mark

full

off the

down from O, as given on the Figure at these points draw lines these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed of inches

;

part of the garment.

P

i

2fr

size draft in

across, to

number and on

draw each


50

RIDING-HAUIT.

•.IN


RIDING-HABIT.

FIG. 31. The demand and

51

RIDING-HABIT.

orders for these garments have, so

been considerable

far,

who make them

leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those for the highest fashionables, but especially to those

who are not often who have a horse and

it

is

called

upon

make

to

at their disposal,

this style of

who

are located

in the

smaller towns and

in

There are now many

garment.

and whose chief enjoyment

equestrian exercise,

in

is

ladies

know how

quite necessary, not only tor the tailor but the dressmaker, to

a riding-

At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their

habit should be cut and made.

a tailor to

make a

stylish

dressmakers.

The

first

thing necessary

is

a

good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be

as a well-setting,

cut,

comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without

The

it.

jacket has a few pecu-

iarities

:

There should be no

down the

the middle of the back

one

cut

;

side-body and back

front,

are

seam

below the

inch

natural waist.

The pleat

and back form a

skirt

the skirt-pleat of a

like

coat.

The buttons should be small

The

and round.

buttoned up

tightly

The be

with

wadded and side,

waist,

at wrist.

inside of jacket should

lined

rows.

are

sleeves

It

carefully

silk,

stitched

in

close

should have a belt

in-

<eam

at

stitched to each

which

is

to close

it

tight

to the form.

The Figures we give show to advantage some of these The draft peculiarities. is

a

a

good model of such

habit,

and

sally adopted,

is

univer-

being both

suitable

and elegant.

"looks

quite

It

English"


CIRCULAR.

52

and very

A

pretty.

standing collar of

plain

white linen should be worn with

man's cravat of black

made with is

the lapels turning

the

if

down

a

jacket

is

scarf

flat

more appropriate.

We "

or

silk,

and a gentle-

it

an

article

published

Gazette

of

Fashion

"

to

Munster's

This

habits.

more

this

add

fully posted, not

here but what "

enable

will

We

is

of the newest

of

our readers

what

only on

which we

the waist,

has been maintained, although

it

jacket-skirt

a firmness.

two holes

in

it,

has not been increased; and the jacket-skirt

is

about the same

fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar rounded off

It is

The

style of a lady's riding-

of

is

is

The edges

is

train.

at front

runs

lined with cloth, or interlined with

The edges

the sleeves lined with light colored

are usually

trimmed with

Ball buttons

silk.

a

is

A

at

the

an angle from

article of substance,

small square tab, with

fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top

narrow

and fancy

off at

some

of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom.

sewn across under the bottom of the back, and

of the back part of

and

cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore,

the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part, and it

worn

is

our publication to the representation

The lengthening

last year,

in length.

to give

be

to

keeping with London styles:

in

and most fashionable

habit in wear.

front.

riding-

have devoted one of the plates issued with the

current number

reported

on

in

silk

silk braid,

sewn on

flat,

and the body and Five or six

buttons are generally used.

buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.

Some of

ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits,

adornment

to the bodies

have made them perfectly

plain, with the

and eschewing

all fictitious

aids

by way

edges turned in and stitched, and smoked

pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.

Veils are no longer considered correct,

no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate

in

character

and out of place with the " billy-cock " hat.

The

train, as

now worn,

bottom, with a narrow

hem

is

only,

only cut a few inches longer than the walking length.

and the V's taken out

Colored habits are being worn

The

also worn.

turned up

shades of brown, olive and green

— not too

light.

wear riding trousers.

They

and scanty

are usually

trains

made

makes are not

so

the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian

is

of the

making up

so appropriate.

same cloth

as the habit, with a fly-front

leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and at

at the

Blue and black are

small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their

inevitable consequence of short

exercise, to

is

seams are covered with ribbon.

Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the

satisfactorily.

One

in rich

at the

It

a

open

to

narrow strap

bottom."

In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for

ing

it

to

measure use the same principle as

on Fio-ure

7

and draw the

skirt like that

on

FIG. 32.

all

numbers on the

laid

down

last

Figure.

for waists,

draft.

But

and lengthen the

in draft-

skirt as

CIRCULAR.

O-S and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is inch inside of line at one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and the waist.

Draw

lines

1

.V


CIRCULAR.

touching front-line at pattern at

and

J,

draw a

2

Draw along

line

and make a point

as

shown

If a

seam

in

1

to

F and from

the centre at

bottom edge

2,

to

1,

and add

be, ;

3.

on the front shoulder, 4.

Now

Apply the length from

and using point

to the

3 as a pivot

then square the bottom at

5,

from

H

to 5

sweep from and

in

front

the Figure.

is

wanted draw a

line

3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7

For a

in

what the garment should

5 to the front for the lower or 4,

Draw from

H

along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to

for full length of

at

the top of the back from

for seams, one-half inch.

From

to F. 1

1,

J.

53

close back, curve from

H

through the centre from F and take out about

and

6 to

8.

along the back to 1+ and thence to 5 at bottom.


54

RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

FIGS. 33 In

make

O

to

J.

H

making

AND

garment we

a pattern of this

is

and

draw

first

From O down

a point on the right end, as O. I

RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

34.

on the edge of paper and

a line

one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. I

are at right angles with 2'/2

From

back-line.

first

third of breast, equal to 6 inches,

O

7 4^

and draw

inches,

place 2 or

2-1

-

and the whole length

and curve the

Make 5

to

\

Go

to R.

back, at

and

making

O

on

line raising

it

1

.V

and

wide

The

and curving

to A, the neck,

Lay the back on on the

Now

line at C.

in this position,

to the point

Square is

A

inch

1

1

from

curve

at

11,

and should

more than from

inch

1

D

run of this line

D

to 11.

5.

draw a straight

front (Figure 34)

From O

all

and R.

one-half inch at

one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. points.

in

top line

line

O

from

From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2JFrom O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O IZ l>

is

I

2-|-.

bottom.

V

also be wider at bottom, about

For the

inch,

Next, from

inches

at

should be nearly straight past

draw a

1

from straight line at

in

waist, 4

through waist at 11 to 12

2Jj-

and add 5.

O

over on the line place one-

right back-seam from \ to

the

Between

to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches,

1

From

I

inches and curve from \ to

Measure down from

J

up

a line

From

place three-fourths of an inch.

to

J.

inches.

K

to

is

lines across at all these

one-sixth of breast.

and extreme shoulder resting

draw along the back shoulder while

and also curve from C

to 12,

it is

which should only

be 4 inches below C.

From K go

out to

H

one-quarter of the breast, less

Having established

equal to 8 inches.

shoulder easier, as seen by dotted

this

we can curve

K

Measure from

lines.

inch,

1

the

over

on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.

Fig. 33.

Now

that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13,

be placed as seen

in

the distance from

K-H

half

and one-third of

down

13 to 14 4 inches

way

lay the back-line against this last point in such a

Figure

Then

35.

and

carefully

measure

to the back-line will

the back and

reducing it

it

it

at

will

to see

if

be exactly one-

Then curve from

breast, or 27 inches.

from the position as

and so that

12 to

the bottom about

would be when the back

is

laid

as stated.

Now

by the length of the back regulate that of the

then sweep by the point of shoulder

/2

71

point,

and part of

this round, as

A

from 10 to

J.

front,

This

and

latter

produced by the sweep, should


RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

be shortened about

1

inch.

Curve the neck from

A

to

55

B,

and add

1

inch

all

alono- the

front for a turn-in hem.

From where

the back

lies

against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of

sleeve-head.

The upper

part of the sleevediead should be gathered-in considerable, and at

notch should be placed to

Figure 35.) '/G

facilitate the

sewing

in, for

O

a

notch should be sewn on notch. (See


CLOSED CIRCULAR.

56

FIG. 35.

CLOSED CIRCULAR.

After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay

and cut without a seam from are

seamed

up, gather in the

O down

to the bottom.

round of sleeve from

O

For

B.

This makes a wrap with a back wing and a

opening can be

A their

left for

the hands to go through, as

short cape, such as have been

appearance here,

is

worn

for

against the front

this shape, after the

forward.

front.

shoulders

The same can be

the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom,

from

it

in a straight

When

cut in this

cut like

down manner an line

shown on the Figure, below E.

some time

in

Europe, and are just making

cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist.

This same


DOLMAN.

57

wrap can be cut from a clolman pattern by laying the sleeve

dolman on

of a

to front so that the

notches come

front

together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or

till

within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder,

then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve. If a line

is

drawn through the shoulder-point, next

to

the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back

shoulder-point

laid

sleeve at blade,

it

and

on

this

line

and closing against the

represent exactly this circular cape,

will

be one of the easiest ways to make

will

The Figure

it.

shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted from

E

forward, as

it

appears when lying

they

handsome

in

may be

Vrf

}.).,

vT"^ V* ^)\

line

in position.

These several wraps can be made of lined, or

^<f?4\

and

silk,

fur-

of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are

shape and

outline

when

As be much

correctly cut.

they are so different from the old circular they will

sought

because of the

after,

newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize

with

the

increased preva-

lence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.

DOLMAN.

FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. Draw

O-H From O

a line

of an inch.

make

from O, down, mark three-fourths

draw a short

From O down

inches.

2-^

it

;

line

to

B

over to is

the centre, between of the waist,

and

to

O and B H the full

from f to

;

one-fourth of

Point

breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast.

D

and

3,

is

F

is

the length

length of garment.

Draw

B and D. Between F and B, directly make a mark C, and draw a line across.

lines across at F,

the centre,

Go from

|

at

in

to

1-J-

From

H.

the waist

13,

inch from line at

for the centre of back,

1^,

at

waist,

measure

in

D

;

draw

and curve below to 4

in

in

line

D

to

3^ inches to 4

inches,

On

line

C make

the width of back one-third of breast

and one inch and draw a

On raise

it

line up.

the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and

one-half inch above 14

;

commencing

there, exactly


DOLMAN.

58

at

the

crossing

finished the

of the

back,

first

begin to curve past 16 and 4 to

lines,

make

a

line across in the middle,

next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular at

15,

below

swing

it

down

line E, at 13,

will give exactly the

till

size,

on 15 as when sewn

the upper part of

and when

in

this

between

position

in

bottom.

1

at

|-

and

F, from

Having

E

over

the arm-hole; holding

;

it

the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch

draw along the round of the

round as shown on the Figure from

15, past 13, to 2.

sleeve,

which


DOLMAN.

59

Next, placing the width over from B on the back

line,

measure

curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches.

below the waist, and from

draw from

6,

which

is

this place

inch

1

to 10, 24 inches,

Point

G

more than one-quarter of

about 12 inches

is

the hips to

one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9

constructed by drawing a line from

From

O

over to shoulder point

O down

is

width of shoulder as the back on the there draw a line over to 8 and

make

;

same down

curve the neck from \ to

front,

and

The

front

the front edge or centre of front.

one-sixth breast, the

one-eighth breast and draw a line across

8,

then finish the

;

curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. is

and

\ to 10

last point,

From O down

3, is

to 3

;

also

go down

and apply the same one-half breast to E,

from E, one-fourth breast

less 1 inch.


DOLMAN.

60

Measure the distance on the back, from B

H, and place

to

E to P, then sweep Make the distance

from

it

the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K.

over from

K

through

to

L

to J to L.

J

one-quarter of the hips, and

;

mark and space the

The

under-sleeve

find

how much

point

make another

6 to

Add

draw a

inch more;

i-

from

line

K

and place the same from

up

3 inches for a lap of double-breasted

cut like the upper part from 2 to 10

is

inside curve from 2 to 7

10 inches from 14.

1 '.Âť

buttons.

The

this

to

1

Next measure the back from

curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L.

;

style

H

is

should be

short, just

we make

This measure,

What

notch.

as

11, like the

needed

is

sew

to

a notch opposite 14 and one at is

marked

from 16 to

L must

inch,

less 1

is left

curve should be like curve on front.

much

as

and

draw a

Lastly,

from

the front

in

which

2,

to

7,

— to

about

is

and

16,

be placed from 2 to

from

line

10

outside curve.

at that

and

this

which finishes

7 to the star,

the whole garment. In order to draft a

the

dolman pattern which

same manner of drafting

will

well

fit

and hang with a good balance

good shaped sack should be

as that which produces a

then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as sack,

and a dolman can then be cut as close as

The manner

/

>

The

the shape of the sleeve.

must be

_ r'

in

a tight-fitting

in

so desired.

if

of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in

main difference being JV

a sack,

used,

fact,

just like a sack, the

even

sleeve,

the upper part,

in

an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part

like

*~ ..

may be any In

make

drafting

(Figure 37)

O

of the various shapes in fashion. line

O down

from

;

a

over to top line

1.

From O

to

B

Point

D

is

fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size.

middle, between

O

tween

and D.

measure down Point

length.

O

to

E

and

to

to 7 inches;

H

is

6

6 inches, or one-third of breast,

is

At

all

F.

waist-line

Make

the

one-third and

up

line

go

to

inch, equal,

1

in

;

1

from 3 to

6 at

I,

mark point K.

C

down from

Also draw a straight

on 36 breast,

the middle, between

from straight line

in

below

these points draw lines across.

one-half inches, then draw line 3 to

in

one-

;>,

draw a

waist-line

is

the middle, be-

in

is

the point where the two lines cross and H,

At the

F

to

From which is the top of the back, C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full

the waist-line at C.

From B

and point

B,

O

three-fourths inch, and from

is

inches to

is 2]-

on from

start

to

to 3

f to 3

one and

and from

right angles with

line at

bottom.

the width at waist, from 3 to

4,

about 3 inches,

down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place and draw from

also a line

7 to 8,

Draw

and curve from 4 past

a line from

I

to

1,

raise

5 to

above

8. I

to J three-fourths


DOLMAN.

and curve the shoulder.

inch,

4

and 8;

line

also

shows

mark

a

dim

Point

that.

line

G

Starting from

from

J

past

E

it

3

it

curve

line,

to G, just like in a sack

back seam

back

— the

to

dotted

C

to

3,

is

a trifle outside of the straight line,

runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below

inside

seam from

past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to

J

curve only near the waist, and from 5

below point

Now head

E

down

it

must have the same curve as outside

line

to F.

have a sleeve cut

rests against the line

for a 36 size

from

K

to

I

;

and lay then

in

this

on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve-

the centre, between

I

and K,

find point 2

stick a pin.

Now it

up upright

curves outside again to F.

The

and

J

one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.

is

Notice that the curve on the back, from

and that below

K

I,

61

pinned

turn to Figure 38: at 2,

move

In the middle,

between

line

A

and D, draw

the lower part of the sleeve towards the back

till

line

E

;

keeping

the top of the sleeve-


—

DOLMAN.

62

head just touches

line

along the top from

2 to

sleeve

pattern,

to

E

at

10 and

9,

also

sleeve, but

we modify

down from

10, inside of

point 9 of sleeve,

down

line

the centre, between

in

from

First

draw

B and

C, which places

D.

Then point

take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at

and without moving the sleeve

2,

this point

move

point and

D

this

done take hold of the sleeve

is

upwards,

it

T

point

till

for-

at its lower

To produce

this

curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line

and place the same from 17

at 17, line

at

from 19 to

and

From N

thence to N.

20,

and

15,

and 14

another

for

Go

sleeve,

an inch

5 three-quarters of

touching the back, and along

10, past 2,

U

or from

to

21

style.

from 4 to

in

on line

16, resting

curve form of sleeve to 21

one style of

to 13 for

D

and draw a straight

to 19,

then curve line from

18,

;

of sleeve rests on

N, and then curve from 16 to N.

at

U

stick a pin at point

found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve

is

When

ward.

line

lines

line

to 12.

Fieure 39 eives the balance of the sleeve. a line

front of

9, in

by drawing a corrected

it

draw

lays thus

it

This gives the outline of the

B.

line

While

10.

past line B, and

it

thence separate from the back to 5 and 14

curve from

;

this last line

must

---i-LLLU-Ii-l-"-

L

"

touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is

marked

5

on the same.

THE FRONT— FIG. Lay bottom

H

back down on paper and extend

the

Measure from Z

line.

one-third of breast and

is

Draw

a line

up

at

to

A

H

one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and

Draw

L

to

8,

a line from

L

and curve from

front of line

P

to

K

From

6.

the last point

it

6

is

one-fourth of breast, equal to

Mark

at A.

to 7

and

is

A

line

also.

4.',

From K

inches. to

L

is

the same, 3 inches; curve neck.

and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from upwards above the line one-fourth inch draw from 8 down in

8

;

will

be three-fourths inch

the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly

curve to

D

D

to

This

9.

P

to

and one up and down

P,

the lines across, line A, B, C,

on line B. one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to

inch;

1

all

40.

draw down

should be about

to 1

5,

which

down is

to

in

front of line P.

midway between

Let lines

this

curve of

B and C, and

three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17

\ inch over the straight line

drawn down from

4

;

at

on the

back.

From from

B,

from

T

point G, which, as before stated,

draw ;

a straight line

also curve

from

G

is

down. Curve from to 12, 14

and

19.

one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches

G

to 12, 13

Point 19

is

and

18

the

same distance from

;

the last point

is

2

inches

T

as 18.


DOLMAN.

Draw bottom the

line.

Add

in

line

front

from 19 to 30 at over

F

line,

front,

for

(,:>,

where curve three-fourths inch below

double-breasted 3

inches,

and

for

single-

breasted 1^ inches.

Now we measuring

point

is

in

have only to show how the under-sleeve

first

the sleeve-head from O, where point

middle, between 9 and 18.

of fullness in the sleeve-head front from 8 to 10

part 10, hold

it

it

and notched.

there with a pin,

This

will

leaves us only

Lay sleeve

move

it

till

produced.

of the back

is

This

sewn on,

is

done by

to 16,

which

measure 1<H inches; as we put in 1 inch inches, which is measured down the

H

notch, line

J

is

marked

16,

on to notch on the

on sleeve, marked C,

will lay parallel

fore-

with


DOLMAN.

64

any of the

lines, as

C

from notch at 10 to

B on

or

N

Then mark on

fore-part.

N

of sleeve, and from

P and A, and

fore-part line 10 to O,

will

to 21

;

the fore-part along the sleeve,

the sleeve will

now be marked on

the

be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to

A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.

The duce any

principle as given in this article style of

dolman.

is

suitable,

The change necessary

any shape of arm-wing, does not

and the only thing necessary,

for the short or

much

fullness

enough extra goods in to meet the

amount

alter the principle.

in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting

to pro-

long pointed sleeve, or for

Pleated backs, or very

required for pleats or fullness.

When more

fullness

is

wanted

in

is

cut addition

is

made where

pleats are wanted.

the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan

is

and a

or 2 inches,

The fit,

it

required, about

little

principle, as

and yet

more round put on the top. shown in this book, will produce

When

to cut the sleeve

two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as

in 1

a regular pattern

may be urged upon

all

using

it,

for

every style of garment a correct

that in order to produce

new

styles, or gar-

ments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader's

own

judgment must necessarily help to carry him through. In conclusion, let

addressing

me

I

will

me

say

— that

any point or measuring that does not seem

always be ready to enlighten to the best

of my

ability.

clear,

by



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

/

nil B 014 062 021

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