HANDBOOK ON
DRESS 0* CLOAK CUTTING, BY
CHAS. HECKLINGER.
1884.
NEW YORK PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, IOI AND
1
03
FULTON STREET.
Entered according to an Act of Congress
in the
year iS84, by
Charles Hecklinger, in the Office of the
ton,
D. C.
Librarian of Congress, at Washing-
PREFACE. HE
following pages contain the author's Improved System of Dress and Cloak
Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who,
desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a difficulty
— the choice of a suitable System.
The System results,
with the least
given has been found to give the greatest security
trouble,
it
greatest satisfaction to the large
being
number
easy
to
of those using
and explaining has been omitted which might tend acquiring
it.
Every point needed
illustrations, in the
rect places
to
make
simple description, and
— making
it
at
learn,
it
in
readily it.
used,
in
its
and gives the
Everything
in
illustrating
to complicate or retard the student in
clear has been carefully put
grouping the separate
down — in
its
articles in their cor-
once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole.
PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM. OST
Systems of proportion, thus
that
human
its
It will
width, can never lead to the best results.
When But
figure,
are projected on the
be evident, on investigating the proportions that a System based only on one size of the body, and
breast-measure. of the
issued,
far
this
is
the height and width are equal
only the case on normal
sizes,
is
it
immaterial which
from 34 to 38 breast, as
we
all
use.
devia-
tions from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the
widths.
The problem
to
be solved
in
using a proportionate system
is
to arrange
the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use
it
for the
heights.
In practice breast, require
we
find that the
and can be cut by the
agree, in the majority of cases, with this size
measure
will either
those indicated, the
full
average forms, measuring from 34 to 38
;
but
in
we must use
breast-measure, as the lengths
larger and smaller sizes this breast-
be too small or too large, therefore,
in
drafting any other sizes than
the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite
breast-measure, in order that the pattern
in
its
neither too small or too large.
Table of Sizes.
Breast.
full
length
may be
of correct size, and
PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM.
In
human body
considering the
characteristics exist
between a young
the large, fleshy form. for constructing
used
in
must be allowed
girl
garments
is
a
art of cutting
is
that
sufficient
and the full-grown woman
All these tend to establish that the
first
— the
and marked slender,
and
elements of a good System
good proportionate standard.
we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by thoroughly attained we also give the system as it should be
In strict accordance with
which the
it
this
;
drafting by measure.
Table of Sizes for Children.
Age.
.
•s? sr;B-;5*>; ;-- -s
Ft?.*
THE MEASURES. HE
measures required are
Have
and only such as give correct
a tape which fastens around the waist in such a
Measure from socket bone
at top of back, point
the highest part of hip, and to the
Take next
few,
full
the width of back from
O, to waist
manner I
results
that
it
(See Fig. will
be
below the tape to
1).
level.
B, for
length of garment wanted.
E
to
D, being careful to see whether the dress worn
THE WAIST PATTERN.
has this width
your measure as seems
Take
Should
in the correct place.
it
be either too narrow or too wide modify
right.
the measure around the arm-hole
move
then
;
the
arm forward
put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure of tape at
to allow
down
to
you
to
bottom
J.
Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve
down to the Turn to
wrist.
Fig.
and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the
2,
arm, to bottom of tape at
down
This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight
J.
of arm.
in front
Measure next from
arm
front of
square, having a tape attached,
Take
front of
the breast-measure
is
To
to centre of back.
take this measure, a
little
very handy to use.
over the
fullest
part of the
bosom
and shoulder blades,
then the waist-measure, always taken close, and the hip-measure.
These are For a
skirt
all
the measures required for a dress-waist, a jacket, or a long garment.
we take
the length on the side, from the hip
down
to the floor.
For
a circu-
width around the shoulders.
lar take the
FIG. 3
AND
THE WAIST PATTERN.
4.
Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N. From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back. From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line. Next, measure from
bone
to the natural waist
From F go at the
in 1
-},-
and from F draw a
inch,
and draw a
over on the top
about right for for sizes
line
to F, the length of back,
from socket
over to the front at T.
from
line for the centre of the back,
place 2 inches to the point
line,
sizes.
For large
under 30 breast-measure
what
the
A
little practice,
fit
medium
all
in
this
width
may
f
at
top to 1ÂŁ
let
be, as
it
it
over 40 breast,
sizes,
be
l.V
to V] inches.
It
marked
O
and
E
make it 2\ to will make no
B and
G
fix
it
2-i
will
be
inches
difference
point B, and in the centre, between
from both points.
Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which to
This
only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam.
(see Fig. 4),
E, locate point C, and draw lines
and add
ÂŁ.
however, will enable any one to apply the right width.
In the middle, between
B and
down
or the top of back
bottom.
From O and
f,
one
inch,
which
All fractions and divisions that
fixes
S
we use
and from S
;
in
to
H
is
6 inches for a 36
;
place one-fourth, or 4^ inches.
explanation are based on the breast-measure, and
are found already divided on the square.
At S and
H
drawing another
draw
lines up, as
to the top, at A.
shown.
Where
lines
S-J and B-J
cross,
begin by
THE WAIST PATTERN.
Now, curve from f
Commencing at
X
G
and from
to A,
curve past
J to R,
A
to G,
going a
which
trifle
last point is one-half inch
above
inside of straight line, then from
R
J.
past
to V.
From R draw
a straight line to 1^, and curve the back seam from
inside of straight line at 19, thence to
little
From
2 to 1 place 1 inch,
2.
Point 2
is
1J,-
R
by going only
a
inches from centre 1^.
then curve the side-body from 19 to
1.
Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the point
D
placed,
in
draw a
Point
This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18).
front.
from there up and down to
line
N
and
D
being
to U, at right angles with the line
under the arm.
To
form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place
N
as a pivot,
to
draw the curved
sweep from P
N
from
it
One-quarter inch inside of front
to 15.
front line to the bottom,
by going outside of
D
to P, and, using
line at 15
we
start
one-half inch and com-
ing back to straight line again, near U.
One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a From P to B draw a straight line then take the length ;
to G,
and place the same from P towards
Having located inch below
it
at 20
;
17,
curve from
it
17,
and where
above the
line of
line
from
V
one-fourth inch.
over to
12.
of the back shoulder, from
A
this reaches is point 17.
shoulder at
21,
and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to
touch A, and drop below
T
and drop one-fourth
X
;
but do not quite
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
10
Point
V
H
midway between S and
is
on both sides of
it
that
;
is,
;
from
it
draw a
straight line to 4; curve a little
starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then
gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at
About one-half and
more forward than the middle, between 19 and V,
inch
the centre, between
in
H, point
and
1
between
In the middle,
H
X
then draw a line from
;
and
12,
to 3
Now
and curve
X
;
it.
the middle, between 12 and
in
of 2 inches for
We
in darts.
put them
average medium sizes
all
the darts, from 6 to
Take
7, is
2 to
;
as follows
in
1-J
;
on
from
5 to 6
back
dart,
and
below
at one-fourth inch
drop point 12 a
is
From U
:
one dart of
three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8
them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to
main on the
and from
1,
this draft
be
will
little
let 9,
and between
upwards from
it
and
2 inches.
towards 13
7
the front one start one-half inch lower
10, 11
1,
inches,
2
then draw
;
12.
curve the lower line past
below the line; also drop 10 a
3,
and a below
little
trifle
it;
above
from 9 to
to
it,
T
re-
line straight across.
draft
is
now
finished
by proportion, and we can assure our readers
use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, drafting remaining the
same
it
is
applicable to
far easier to
with the
that,
manner
forms, the
all
of
in all cases.
We
All our fioures. unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. it is
it
to 5 place a distance
another dart of
is
arm and place
two-thirds of the distance under the
for the height of the
Now,
U, to
front, at
deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches,
must be taken out
cause
point
fix
13.
16 inches.
The
locate 3
4,
and D, mark point
Measure the distance from
12,
4.
add the amount necessary on
do
this be-
than to draft
different material
it
on
the pattern.
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. The measures we waist, 15; height
under arm, 7; front of arm,
In drafting this
above
O
10-^
Breast, 36 ;
;
waist, 24
width of back,
6-|
we drop proportion altogether and use only
to get all points
manner from
shall use are the following:
on the
to the previous draft.
draft.
All the lines
and curves
by drawing a
Fig. 4 starts
line
;
;
length of natural
front length, 18V.
the measures as stated
will
O-F
come out and
O-N
three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, arid curve from
From
|-
down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a 1-i-
go down
;
-|-
line
mark a point. From f to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back. Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw
the front and go in
in similar
to A.
over to
inches and
a line to
the front.
From Z
to
D
is
one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down.
Also measure from Z to arm,
10-i-
S,
the actual width of
inches, or the blade
measure which
blade to the centre of the back.
At S and
H
is
the.
back, and from Z to H.the front of the
taken from the front of the arm over the
draw
lines up.
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. between
In the middle
O
E mark
and
point C, and draw the lines across as shown.
From where
A
to
G
which point
Beginning thence to V.
Make
1
the lines cross at
at
is
G
This
J,
curve arm-hole past last is
point B, and
(See Fig.
draw one across
one-half inch above J,
11
in
the middle between
4.)
back at A, and curve from
to top of
J.
between
a trifle inside of line
J
and R, and from
midway between S and H.
the bottom of the back 1^ inches wide. This
is
only a medium, as
Between 19 and
2
a straight line to 1^ and slightly curve a line
curve more towards centre of back.
A
few
can be
it
more drawn to
inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam' either further back or
Then from R draw
B and E
trials will
made
to the front.
19 and to
enable you to
2.
make
a nice shaped curve.
From From
2
on back to side body
at
1
is 1
inch,
and curve from 19
V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a
separate side-body from
tance between 3 and 4
is
X
to
3.
Point
X
is
trifle
midway between
about ^ inch more than
X
to V.
to
1.
on either side of
line
R
and
V
it,
also
and the
dis-
THE WAIST, BY MEASURE.
12
Take i
and sweep from P
as a pivot
At
it
P and use point
to
reaches to
point
is
This may, sometimes, when the person
P.
and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below
shoulder point, and when
keep
its
it.
Wherever
N
it
be below the
reaches
it
the
is
even with shoulder
a point below N, so that the
line, at
neck
shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point.
Wherever point P
located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw
is
the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from
G
on
it
above the
erect, reach
is
goes above we sweep at a point above
it
and of course, should
for neck,
to
N
to 15.
our measure 18A, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever
is in
line;
N
from point
a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front
length, which
will
and place
of the breast, equal to 3 inches,
from P to get point
this line
Then from
17.
17 curve above
it
A
about one-quarter
inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, to V, as
shown on the diagram.
At the
front,
draw the
gradually curving out
Measure the distance F
middle between
which
is
marked
From U
and
to
D
in
again
to
1\ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.
U, leaving out the opening between
1
and
2,
which
in
this
of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches,
in darts.
the darts
H
have one-half inch curve, and thence going
Now, one-half
which must be taken out
To produce
D we
From U go down
the line at waist, point U.
case will be 16 inches.
a trifle from 17 to 20.
line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch,
at
till
Drop
in
we proceed
the right place
which gives
and
12,
in
as follows
:
first
the centre between-
locate a point in the
H
and
another
12,
13.
we never wish
to 5 place 2 inches, as
front,
then from 5 to 6
amount
the
to
have the is
first
one dart of
dart any nearer to the 2
inches or one-half of
Between the darts leave
to be taken out.
three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches
from
draw
to
7
In the centre of each dart
8.
lines
from these to 12 and
mark
a point and
13.
One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22
is
one-half inch lower, and starting from each of
the last points curve the darts as shown. It will
be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top,
and that below the
waist-line they run
straight
down
with-
out any spring being given.
From
on
curve to 3 and 4
above
a trifle line.
1
waist-line,
Point 10
line,
is
a
little
;
but between 3 and 4
and then from 4 lower than the
to 12
line,
it
runs
on lower
while
it
rests
from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to
add that
this,
as well as the preceding, requires the adding
of seams according to material used.
LARGE
FIG. In using this
by measure,
difference being only that the
tionate
Method:
5.
LARGE
draft in the
measure
will
Breast, 44 inches; waist,
13
SIZE WAIST.
SIZE WAIST.
same way
as explained in another article, the
be larger.
We
3U
;
will explain this
by the Propor-
drafting size, 21|, or equal
to a breast-
measure of 43^ inches. It
should be understood that this
last size of
breast
is
used only
for the height, while
the original breast-measure must always be used for the width. First
draw
line
O-C, mark point O, and draw
F
a line at right angles with
O-C,
to
A;
and
22 inches;
O
From at
K
draw
to 6
K
to
K
Midway between 1
and thence past 15 and
arm-hole from 18 to the
point
is
H
is
seam above
shoulder, raise the
To draw
G
and
the last point
;
to
a
5
and
5,
fix
8 one-half inch,
side-body, place
between
G
going inside of
8,
it
desired to produce a narrow
is
and draw the
8 fully 1 inch,
inch from
1
to
1
and curve the
2,
line
from 16 to 17
F
to
and draw
4,
and then draw
3,
down, which
a line straight
point 15. Also take the distance from 2
4, fix
a point in the centre, which will be
a line from 15 to 3
now, sweep from
F
to
I,
using
A
line at 20; finish the
above the
be seen that
For the
inches
it
runs over and
Now
to
manage
lUi- inches.
in front of line E,
darts of
1|-
But as the measure
8,
draw
on to F
in
a straight line, to
again until
only
1
5 J,
it
touches line at
li to 1-2, to
3,
J
and
and
I
;
and place the
and then curve
!Âť,
to
a
it
little
It will
and one-fourth inch below breast-line
Measure from is
A
from 19 downwards past E.
it
I,
at 4.
and go
14.
3 to J
this will
;
we take out the difference inches, which we take out in two
one-half of 31i,
This amounts to
in darts.
2J
inch each.
between
H
and E, which gives point
P.
First find the centre
tween
R
put
one dart of
in
D
one-fourth inch inside of straight line at
to fix the darts:
between these two widths
to
From
:
and the same amount from
;
to
arm-hole by curving
commence
front edge,
F
as pivot; from
gradually out to one-half inch at H, and
give
3.V
distance, as on the back shoulder from
same
curve
;
shown.
lines, as
one-sixth of the breast-measure,
is
;
2.
In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given
A
it
the seam for the back from 16,
and back from
and E, mark point
on each, side of these two
little
make
When
H.
and, in the middle, between 17 and
;
for the top of back,
4 to E.
Start to
16.
inch from
thence separate and curve nicely to
be
6,
A-J.
16.
first
In the centre,
curve to
7
Also commence to curve the arm-hole from
8.
line one-eighth inch at 16,
From
inches.
2-|
line
at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising
and
a line,
up and down, thus making the front
line
one-eighth of breast,
is
one-half inch above
past 17 to
draw a
this point
at
to 6
neck; from
will
SIZE WAIST.
LARGE
14
1
1 inch.
This
Between the
width of the other dart, which
From R draw
and E, which
is
first
fixes point
and
fix
a line through the centre of the
;
and the centre,
commences 2J
dart
be
darts, let the space
also 1^ inch,
R 1
inches from
inch,
also, be-
Then
J.
and then place the
a centre in each dart.
first
dart,
and from P one through the
centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. darts are started two-thirds of the distance
up under the arm, but the front one
is
The made
one-half inch shorter.
From
J
go down
The bottom and draw raising to
1
?,-
inch and
of the waist
When
and back
to
line across to 10.
At 12 begin one-fourth inch below one-fourth inch below, draw a curved line to 5,
straight from 14 to 13.
From
to the line at 11. 3,
is
draw a
10, also
2.
the back has been narrowed on the shoulders
conform the front
to
it
;
as
we have
raised above 8
to
it
becomes necessary,
also, to
18 one-half inch, therefore,
we
LOW NECK DRESS must reduce the shoulder on the
Then
the waist
is
front the
Let
finished.
it
15
WAIST.
same amount we added, and
it
will
bring
it
to 19.
again be stated that seams must be added, except
in
the neck and arm-hole.
FIG. It will
by
this
DRESS WAIST.
be seen that the general arrangement of this draft
is
the
same
as
produced
all
System.
The will
LOW NECK
6.
pointed basque-like shape at bottom
is
made
to
whatever length desired, only,
it
be noticed, they are made short on the side just over the hips.
In
reach
making these waists low
down lower on
in
the neck, the
first
the shoulders, and, therefore,
point to be considered
we have
to draft
is
them so
that they
as to
meet
this requirement.
From S.the
original
shaped
ing to the lowness of opening
from these two
;
we go out to 10, on line D-10, 1 to H inch, same is added from O to R, and the arm-hole
draft,
the
accord-
drafted
last points.
Now, decide how low
it
should be open, and draw the curved lines from
T
to Q,
and
—
.
BASQUE PATTERN.
16
from B to is
wanted
over S to
9.
The
strap on shoulder can be
flatten the sleeve-head
made
1
or 2 inches wide.
about the same amount as was added to the shoulder
7.
BASQUE PATTERN.
This figure represents a short pointed basque as
whether by proportion or by measure.
We
producing
all
go over
here again,
it
can be produced by this System
have already
2>///e
From
short sleeve
10.
FIG.
it
If a
fully
explained the manner of
C
'
the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and
the waist
it
it is
not necessary to
being the same as any other waist.
down we
place whatever length
is
wanted
in
the back to get point
J,
BASQUE PATTERN.
From
or line B.
and whatever
and
1
put on from S to back line must
is
be also added from line at 30 to
On
drawn down,
lines are
1-J
17
28.
a short basque the back line does not
touch point
having
J, it
the width of back, at S,
and therefore
less spring, is
only a
more than
little
about one-half inch on each side
at the waist, or
of the straight lines.
From
28 curve up, to taste.
J to
wanted
If
with a high curve at side, over the hips, reach above 28
;
and when desired straight around
the bottom draw
along bottom
it
side-body at bottom
level with 28, rising
O
is
or similar
line,
shown on other Figures.
to a jacket, as
The
may
it
must
start
at S,
up towards R.
even with R, and from
it
to
O
draw the
line a little lower.
Point P it is
is
also level with
drawn so that the
O
;
thence, forward,
front point
either level
is
with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the Figure, where
The
it is
two inches lower.
But below the waist
The
same
darts are placed the
way
best
straight lines
to
line
F
on a waist.
as
they curve, as shown.
produce a good result
down from
11, 12, 13
is
and
to
14,
draw draw-
ing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will
thus be seen
that
23 comes nearly
in
the
centre of the second dart, because more curve
is
here needed for the hips, while the space between
drawn so that the distance between 21
the darts
is
and 25
only a
this
more than
12 to
13.
In
way, when the darts are sewn up they
will
is
little
at
take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.
When down and
dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the let
arm draw
the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O.
a straight line
Also take out
about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.
From this line,
15 to 20
a straight line
over the hips, to
It will
R
is
also drawn,
or point S on Fig. 4; and point is
is
middle, between line
E and
put each side of
and O.
be noticed that point 18
side-body, at the waist,
and an equal amount
15
is
the
midway between
is
made wider
in
;
the line from 18
18 and line is
K
;
the line K,
the width of the
always drawn straight down,
POLONAISE.
SLEEVE.
then divide the distance from point 19 and
through 20 draw the other
is
drafted in the
the centre of which
2,
is
20; and from 15
line.
FIG. This
19
POLONAISE.
8.
same manner
as the one given in Fig.
As, however, this
7.
long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line spring out
till
bottom, point F,
at
on side-body, one inch
at 6,
Where and point
and X, of
3
amounts
there draw a
;
curve the one-half inch over
it
On
it.
side-body lays, and
AND
line.
lines
O-E
and O-F.
Use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve, and go down from O to B one-fourth of this A is in the ;
O
From O
to
there draw a line
From B which
will
to
and
Draw
B.
F is one-half down to K.
F draw
be point
H
;
lines across.
of arm-hole,
a straight line
and from
and from
and halve
this last also
it,
draw
a short line at right angles with the diagonal line
H
from
to
J.
Measure the length of
line
and place
H
third of
it
Now, using point
4,
it
from
as pivot,
J
B-F and to
take one-
J.
sweep from
line at top,
around to the front and the back
Where down to K.
curve line past 5 to this sweep. crosses line at
Go down
G
draw a
from B to
line
C
;
from B
the sweep
three-fourths of an
inch,
and from here measure the length of arm to E.
Mark
a point
midway between B and E, which
gives D, and draw a line across. In the middle,
back,
mark
Now
between the two
parallel lines at
a point f.
lay the square in such a position on the
pattern that 5 inches will touch point
arm
E
will
to N,
E and the
long
touch/, then draw along the bottom, from
and to/.
7,
is
then finish the line
THE SLEEVE.
10.
Commence by drawing
middle between
4 there
is
one inch over
D
1-J-
on top of
from Put
same
inches, the
X
in
to 14,
two
it,
1
we
line
straight line from 4 down, through this inch,
the length also by the side-body.
fix
At
fore-part, are located lay the side-body
run only 4 inches below the hip
FIGS. 9
inch.
the side, from 5 to
of side-body, resting on X,
3,
one
to
a
is
;
and
at bottom.
resting on
3,
by the way the
darts, letting
them
SLEEVE.
20
Begin
L
from C, past
to curve
and curve
to f,
to N.
Go
in
from
D
1
J-
draw the front-seam of
inch and
the sleeve.
From X, where
the curve strikes line B, begin to
draw the under-sleeve
upper part
parallel with
6 to
1.
Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure past
I
towards
to
the measure of arm-hole, and 2 inches
If the upper-sleeve
more.
on
3,
X
and measure 16
line at 3 for a 16-sleeve.
measures 11 inches place
11
more
to
inches,
adding
2 inches
Wherever point
3
located
is
begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running straight down, curving- out to line 7 as
f
is
outside of
2,
or as
much
inside of
it.
FIG.
10.
Draw the line O-G and O-F. From O to C go down one-third, less one-half inch, and draw line over In the middle, between C and O, draw also a to K. line
from B to H.
From
O
G
to
one-
is
half of arm-hole size, and
draw
G
a line from
down-
u
li#(npillWW|l|i
wards.
From C
begin to curve the sleeve-top past
ing the top line at
Make F From E to N
sleeve.
from
H
K
past
one-half inch
Go
elbow.
From L
I.
is
and N, curving
and curve the
in
from
D
1
\
line
inch,
H, touch-
E.
an average of 5 inches.
M
to
to
I
apply the length of
lower down than
\ inches
1
to
E
it
only a
Draw
inside of tritle
K
a line
about
below the
and draw the inside seam
from C to E.
This finishes the upper-sleeve.
draw from C, curving under Point
J
is 1
The to
E and
front-seam
under-sleeve
From
J
draw down
J.
to within
and to N. is
the same as the upper-sleeve from
C
N.
In drawing
and bear
M
the
straight line to L, thence to
inch inside of H.
one-half inch of
For
in
any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole,
mind that
already included.
this
manner
of drafting; has the seams
21
SKIRTS.
FIG. 11. Cutting and making a dress very
little
importance.
any style and kind,
skirt, of
By many dressmakers
hands and blocked out by a pattern which style
the
will not
work
fit
is
is
sometimes considered of
entrusted to inexperienced
the form.
Many
fine
costumes lack
because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed.
The as
SKIRTS.
fashion for the present, and for
much
some time
care as any other part of the dress.
past, requires the skirt to
be
fitted
with
All fullness must be so arranged as to
fall
a-
into the
back breadths of the
train.
The
sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so
as to eive a straight even effect across the front
and sides and allow the
train to
suddenly
spring out at the lower part of the back widths.
The sweep.
careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to
The
necessity of fine •slopes,
and a difference of those
well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated
the dress
is
intended.
in
fall
into a fan-like
different costumes, as
when we observe the use
for
which
— SKIRTS.
2 '2
a walking dress, as
In
should be to be
it
adhere closely
skirts should
demands' of fashion, the
whatever fullness there may be
between the breadths, which reduce the
As in
size
may
fall
down
it
sides, leaving
darts are required
this,
needed over the hips down
the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides
order that the skirt
and the present
style
around the front and
all
In order to gain
the back.
at
harmony with
in
to the size at waist.
must be evident
that,
over the hips, these darts at side must be
fairly
larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller.
The bottom should have laying the gores
in a
closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre
upwards about the same length as the
of the front and extending
the back breadth another line
is
drawn
the two lines would represent a cone
and extending
table,
this will
The at
to
now
As we have
each side.
fittincr
is
effect in
far
enough up
At the centre of
skirt.
In this shape
to cross the first line.
at the point attach a string to a pin
;
driven into the
lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom
this string to the
produce a correct front width
This sweep can be gained the easiest by
a regular sweep.
every case.
cut wide
enough so
already said,
that only one additional width
much depends upon goring
is
needed
the sides as regards
the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient
The
cover the round form of the body.
result as not sloping
enough
same
defect liable to occur in this point has the
namely, the skirt
at the side for large hips,
will hitch-up
on
the waist-band.
Putting on a skirt to the band
width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body fullness should
All the rest of the
band
after the front
We
A
of equal importance.
is
in
dart in the apron or front
front; so also do darts at side.
be pleated or gathered into the few inches
left
of the
and sides have been sewed to the band.
should not advise any one to cut out a
out a good pattern, unless they understand
skirt,
how
to
whether short or with
draft
train,
with
one and know the points of
the different shapes in gores.
Such
skirt patterns
order that students
may
we
are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in
acquire an idea of
how
to cut them, Fig. 11 will
show
the general
form and shape of them.
Draw
line A,
and make
it -45
mark
inches long, and
shown by the number of inches given
at all these points
off all the distances ;
draw
on the
line, as
lines across at right angles
to line A.
Draw
a line from
point 6 to 12 and curve
curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to
it
6-|
to within one-half inch of
on
line A.
6,
and then
This finishes top of front
breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom. Finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from like
Figure
;
at the
bottom, curve from 12 to
Connect points 32 and part
;
42, also
this will give a skirt 38 inches
Lay the In
pleated
front part, line A,
sewing in
to
22 and
7
to
11,
curving these lines
42. 12,
by straight
lines,
which
finishes the
back
long and the prevailing width.
on the fold of the goods.
the band the front and side-breadths are
three or four large pleats.
left
plain while the back
is
SACK JACKET.
FIGS. 12, 13, 14. It will
manner
first
commence
ZrneC.
3~~
From
SACK JACKET.
be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted
as the principle
We
23
O
1
employed to
in the
construction of the waist-body or basque.
draw the back
line
B and
O
to
F
(Fig. 12).
—0
'/-
down, on the
first line,
place three-fourths of an inch, and from
one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average Starting at
the same
in
-3-,
measure down
of the hips; also to
E
over to F,
size.
to C, the length of natural waist,
the length wanted.
O
and
to D, the full parts
SACK JACKET.
24
From C up
place the height under the arm.
Now
at
from
|,
Go
from
in
C
to
N
and then draw a
inch,
1-J-
point to E, and curve the back-line, as
From N
to
M
make
From
go inside of between
O
From
G
and draw a
B, fix point A,
A-J and G-S
line at J
draw a
I
Draw
draw a
cross
N, then
line to
trifle
commence
at
E
whatever the distance
it is
make
desired to
point 5 would also be nearer to
Cut the back
out,
and
that there will be
to
D-F
Lines
Draw from and curve
to 10
and I,
downwards
Curve from
About
1
wide from
drawn from
is
from
line
over to
line
J.
S
to
last
then from S
;
point
is
midway
2 to
3
to 3
room enough
to cut
are extended over.
along the back, to
I
cross. it
is
to
too
to
H
Make
is
8,
which
6,
H
4 to
5,
2
;
and the
5.
E may be
nearer to 3
in
;
such case
the side-body lay it
on the papsr
in
such a
out without piecing.
From
13.
2 to 10 is 1 inch in
and from thence begin
is
it
every case.
from the back
to separate
the point on the back where line
O
and the
line
curve, not springing out too
and K.
K
draw a
line
down
to
L,
which should make the side-body
as 10 to L.
drawn past
may
M.
must be placed from
is
11 to
draw one down from 10 from 3 to
5
be a
little
to
3.
and another from L
should be placed from 4 to
6,
to
4.
and then the
6.
the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to
7 to 11
8,
one-fourth of the breast-measure.
whatever the distance
seam from L
to
from N, and to 4 from
From 6 down give this line a nice fiat — a medium is what is desired.
inch inside of 8 to
side-seam to
line for the
4.
order to draw
in
F down
a narrow back, point
right angles with waist-line
Now
is
O
and down
much nor making From B to K
from
F
This
I.
and draw
I
THE SIDE-BODY.— FIG.
At
S.
line to F.
and thence with a decided curve
a right-angle line with the waist-line
In case
2
up to
and from there draw a
and curve the arm-hole of the back
back may be finished by drawing the
from
line
one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from
J
going inside of straight line a
manner
past R.
f,
and G.
J
Now
and
the point where lines
Raise above
and from the
at top, to N,
the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.
between
In the middle,
line
shown from
Starting at R, place the width of back to
as
every one of these points
lines across, all at right angles with the first line.
draw
last
B
to
more than
that from 9 to
6,
as
;
also notice that the distance
more ease over the
hip, at side,
desirable.
THE FRONT.— FIG. All the lines are extended over on the paper,
14.
and the side-body and back are
when they were drafted, and as shown. measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw
laid in
the position as First
line
A
up and down.
SACK JACKET.
From B
to
R
is
L'O
the measure to the front of the arm, where a line
P back, place one-sixth of the breast
Measure up from
star
on
side,
to N, here
marked
draw a
Z, to line at
line
From this height draw a line to A, which gives From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. S on
to N,
on
line
N, and where
up.
From
as shown.
N, the front length
less the
width
^—P
of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line
to
drawn
up and down,
S
F
is
it
fix
the height.
the height of shoulder.
Place the length of back shoulder from
reaches will be point 22. r \
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.
26
Drop line, to
one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which
Draw
R
Also curve arm-hole from 22 through
N.
one-fourth above the
is
H.
to
the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V,
coining back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20.
From H, through
L,
draw
line to 11.
Whatever the distance from
Sweep
L, through 12, to 13. this
11 to 24
is
place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from
the bottom from 13 by a point
N
and
flatten
curve near 14.
Midway between R and V
point
fix
Measure the distance from the Deduct the half
and midway between
front at
from
size of waist
2,
U
Fix a point at right
in
this last
the centre of the darts and
and
2
out
point
1.
is
taken out
in darts.
in darts.
straight line from
angles with waist-line draw lines from centre fix
R
2 to C.
and the remainder
draw a
Now, one-third of the height under arm, down,
Draw
and from
to 10
From U to 12 is 2 inches. From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken From to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch. From 8 to 7 is another dart. and
inch back of
1
point
down
of dart
and make
3,
1
and to
2 to 6
and
5
;
bottom.
the
4 one-half inch more.
the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.
FIG. 15.
Draft by measure waist
14-^,
and
full
— breast,
36
;
waist, 24
and
hip, 40.
will
it
occurs
when
it
is
away with the
It is
the same principle,
but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole
Commence by drawing
over-lap-
drafted altogether, as in our
previous articles on proportionate cutting.
O
to
endeavor to show how to draft
a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing
and
Length
length, 26.
By using these measures we ping of patterns as
;
in
the skirt.
the back construction line from
O
to
L
to P.
From O down is three-fourths inch to T. From O to E is one-fourth of breast 9 inches. From T measure down to the waist 14 ^ inches, and
—
plength to L, 26 inches, and from
and curve the
B
K
is is
midway between 6 inches
At F go from
T
to
over on top line to 5 two inches,
and E.
below the waist
;
now draw
all
the lines across.
1^ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back,
to 7
and one from
full
top, T, to 5.
H, and spring out three-fourths inch
From E 3,
in
O
O
the
is
5 to
at
9,
thence to L.
one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. 3.
Draw
a line up from 7 to
27
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.
Raise above 3 one-half inch to the curved line from
Point 6
and from
Now
2
is
-4
to
then curve the shoulder-seam of the back
a straight line
3
and
down
Make
7.
the width of the back at waist 2 inches,
2
to 10 at bottom,
of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect
THE Cut out the back and lay line
form also
to the bottom.
curve the side seam from 6 past
on the same
;
6.
midway between
draw
4,
it
the
is
three-fourths
10 by a line.
SIDE-BODY.
on the paper
further towards
L and
which point
in
front, so
such a manner that the breast-line that there will be sufficient
will lay
room
at the
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.
28
bottom
to draft out the side-body whole.
6 to 2
go
in at 2
13
draw
;
At
one
inch,
Now,
draw along the edge of the back from
first
and curve from the blade down
a straight line
to 13.
down, and curve out from 13 to 18
underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw to 20,
which
From
is
the
14 to 13
same length is 2
inches,
a straight line from 12 to 11,
Go over
1-i-
be exactly
this last will
;
it
with a slight curve
as point 10 of the back.
and make the distance from
and down
11 to 12 the
out from 15 to 10 one inch, and curve seam from 11 to
Draw
inch outside of straight line.
same; now draw
to the bottom.
line
from 20 to
which should not be
10,
19.
THE FRONT. Lay the side-body on
breast-line
breast-line of each lays correct ./"'?*'-
and
and back
straight, then
position against side-body, so that the
in
measure from
the centre of the front at this last point
draw
on centre of the back
I
to
D, half-breast, or 18 inches;
a
line
up and down
for front
line.
now be
Point 12 of the side-body will point 21 of the front; draw slight curve to
shape
in
down
at waist
to 27 a line with a
also
;
the same as
draw a straight
down from 27 to 35 at bottom. From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and same to 23, now sweep the neck from P. From C, which is one-halt inch above the top line
for erect or ordinary builds,
the
line
on the line draw one to B
on the back.
Now
measure the length of shoulder on the back
from 5 to curve a
-4,
little
and place the same from C above
it,
on side-body forward 4^-
inches,
where a
as
shown
to front of
line
is
H
and
arm-hole from 22 to
in
to 22,
From
Fig. 15.
arm
is
drawn from
33,
to 34
H
;
then finish
21.
;
laying the side-body, point
comes
is
From
G
one-fourth, or
Finish the side-seam by going out at 31
and curve seam
and
1
inch to
also locate the length 12,
on
21,
by
and where 19
34.
C,
by
straighten this
34,
some
At the centre of
sweep the bottom of in
front
and
the centre.
breast-line,
beyond D, put one-half
of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S,
where
to the it.
it
comes back
bottom
at 30,
to the straight line,
where
it is
and thence
one-half inch outside of
For a double-breasted jacket make the
lap
2.V
inches
29
SACK JACKET.
and 2ÂŁ
at waist,
at breast, 2
points S to
Whatever the
at bottom.
of the draft at waist, from
on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out
1J,-
we take out one
In this Figure
dart only, starting in the centre,
and D, and take out between points 25 and
26, the full
above
or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds
below the
size
in darts.
J,
which
amount which 25,
is
will
between
H
be about 2^
and finishing about 4 inches
hip-line.
two darts are preferred they are put
In case
in as
already shown in previous Figures.
SACK JACKET.
FIG. 16.
This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart
The
front.
in
the
correctness of the lines, and the simplicity
much benefit to our students. same as we have given in several
of the process, will be of
This method
is
different styles,
manner.
the
and therefore
kinds of garments, and our aim
shapes
ment they may be do
in
and
its
styles, so that
called
whatever gar-
it.
Let us take a size
— 36
waist, with
24
breast,
length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching
neck
application
they will be able
cut
to
to draft all
giving the different
to familiarize our readers with
is
to a variety of shapes
to
drafted in a similar
method
only one
requires
It
it is
a
down from
15.V inches.
In drafting,
first
draw the
From O go down
O-F.
line
three-fourths inch for the top of
the back.
From waist,
1
5
D
the top of the back to
the length to the
same point down
inches; from the
i
is
bottom of the garment measure 30 inches
At
D
go
in to
point 14
inch.
l-l-
to the
to F.
Then from
the top
of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw
one from 14
to F, curve
Make
14, past 20, to F.
and run a
inches, 2 to 29,
and curve
it
from
is
O
9 inches,
over to
K
a
C
to
G
is
with
backdine from
shown on the Figure.
one-quarter of the breast,
and draw a
line across.
Draw
a line
at right angles with the back-line.
In the middle, between
From C
as
trifle,
to
below
the width from 14 to 2 two
line parallel
From O go down which
slightly over the line
O
and C,
one-third breast and
fix 1
a point
marked B and draw
inch, equal to
7
inches,
a line over to N.
and draw
a line at right
30
SACK JACKET.
G
From
angles with line C-G.
centre of back, to
1,
J,
at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-
measure, equal to 18 inches, and at
rise
up and down
line
like line
K-J
S.
above the
and H.
commencing
then,
curve the shoulder, letting
at 13,
it
last line one-half inch to 14.
Starting three-fourths inch 17
draw a right angle
J
From O to 13 is 2 inches. From N to 13 draw a line, and
and
one-fourth breast, equal to \\ inches, there draw
is
one under arm.
a line at right angles with the
From
H
to
inside of line
In the middle, between
N
and G,
Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and To draw the first side-body place from
back.
G
begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to the point to start seams from for the
fix
29
— this makes the back with narrow shoulders.
2
to 3
one
curve the line from 19 to
inch,
3,
gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to
Below
get a neat curve.
thence downwards,
Make it
the
bottom
at the
it
till
at hip, 21,
back
will over-lap the
it
meet the back, and
will
inch to 30.
1
the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and
same
Lay
till
curve toward the back
3
at waist, or
from 3 to
4,
Then curve from
3 inches.
17 to
make
4.
a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in
this position
mark a
line
along
it
from the hip-line downward, and connect
by a curve
it
from 4 to 24.
Go
in
careful to
from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to
commence
to separate side-body only \\ inch
below
Lay
17.
5,
but be
a straight-edge, as
and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23. before, at 17,
From
17 to 18
may be
only \\ or
size— 2 inches
inches, according to the
2
will
be
sufficient for a 36 breast.
Draw
a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape
lay a straight-edge against 18,
hips
downward; curve from
Commencing edge against
18,
and three-fourths inch from
it
to the form.
and mark along
6,
it
Again,
from the
6 to hip.
at 18, curve the front to
taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-
7,
and three-fourths inch from
7
mark along
it
below the hips and
finish the
curve from 7 to 25.
To produce same from
K
to
the front, place from 16.
From P
to
back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to curve to
it
above
this line,
and
H, going outside of the
at 15
line
consideration go beyond point
Curve the
coming back
K
to
B draw a line, then P to produce point drop
it
enough
H — rather
Add beyond
where
last
Measure from 14
it
curve to
2,
breast, equal to 3 inches, also the
place the 15,
go
same distance
arm hole
a
At
15 curve the arm-hole
good shape, but under no
inside.
inside
of 16, and outside at
J
one-half inch, and
should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at 1
inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket,
3 to 4, 5 to
6,
and
as on the
or the length of front shoulder,
one-half inch below.
to give the
front-line one-fourth inch
to R,
P one-sixth of
7 to
the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24,
all
S.
the
way down.
R, which will be about 15 inches; but as
we must
take out the difference
in a dart,
SACK JACKET.
which
is
draw a
3 inches.
Divide the space between
straight line down.
Go down
from
I
H 2
and
31
J
which gives point
inches to
place one-half of the dart, 1| inch, then curve from 17 to
point to 10, 28 and 36.
The bottom
of the
At
first
the bottom
1
8,
On
and from
first
;
this
each side of the line at 9
27 and 35
;
also from the
same
should be three-fourths inch.
side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back
second the same length as the second, and curve forward
it
17.
I,
and the front must
inch below line 33 to 37.
start
at the
same length
;
the
as the
SHORT JACKET.
32
FIG. 17.
SHORT JACKET.
This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. are the
same
As regards the
as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in
darts
all
points
two side-bodies we only
cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required
make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket. The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go to
with
this.
—
JERSEY BLOUSE.
JERSEY BLOUSE.
FIG. 18. Draw
line
three-fourths inch. centre,
From O
between B and D,
J Go 2
in
from
E
1-i-
is
G
to
6.
to
D
to
D
is
to 20
take one-half the distance to get poin-t B, and
From
point C.
20 to
E
is
length of back and to
inch and draw the back-line from 20 to
From
From O
one-fourth of breast.
F
the
full
in
is
the
length.
6
inches for top of back to
up from
O
From
O-J and O-F.
33
6
Curve arm-hole from \\ inches on a 36 breast.
2.
From
draw one 1
D
to 2
through
Draw
is
one-third of breast and
and curve
9 to
a line up.
1
inch above
From G to H From back, near D,
10.
and
17,
inch to G.
1 it
to F.
at
From O is Draw a line
1.
is
one-fourth of breast
to
K
is
one-half of breast.
— GIRLS SACK.
;:i
Draw line up and down. From J back to is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3. From to 6 draw a line, Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, I
I
and curve the arm-hole from 18 to
Make
the width of back
Then curve
at bottom.
go
Draw 3
16
in 3 inches, to
and
Lay
and
and
1
l. ,,
the side-seam at 10 to 5
inches,
and
Point 10
to 10,
inches from
53,
1-L
inch from G.
inches to point 10, and 10 inches
',M,
From
and U.
J,
about
is
N, at front of the waist,
to 4 6 inches.
down through
a straight line up and
to 5
4,
4.',
H
and
17,
16,
and form the
from
dart,
20,
through
6.
the back on the front to meet at 10, 5
L
on V,
8
on U, to get the right curve
for
the side seam.
Measure the waist and make the distance
at
V
to
correspond with
it.
Using
as
I
pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.
Add
one-half inch button-stand, and
Buttons should be
The Jersey
The seams
finished with standing collar. is
intended only for goods which are elastic
like stockinet or tweed.
the dart and at side should be stretched
in
allowing them to
inch apart.
1
is
This pattern
the side the buttons are sewed on.
inch on
1
fit
somewhat
in
pressing, thus
closer to the form.
GIRL'S SACK.
FIG. 19. This
The
a sack
is
a
for
young
girl
figure illustrates a very jaunty
For the
Season
Fall
it
of
size
31
breast,
and comfortable
close-filting.
jacket.
should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of
a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish
is
obtained by binding
it
with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid. It
has
buttons
eight
small turn-over
front,
in
which allows
lapel,
is it
cut
single-breasted, with a very
to be buttoned
up close
to
the
neck.
A on
side
edge
is
imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put
it.
The
full-size
pattern
may be
sented, using inches for every In order that this
^00
manner
may
make any
not
First
draw a
of doing
it
may
cut by following the Figure, as repre-
number marked
out.
be readily understood we will go over this
again, so that our readers
who
desire to take
them
off
mistakes.
line
on the edge of paper, and draw out the back
first,
by fixing a point
at the top.
O marked
is
the starting point.
f, 2f, 5f,
Draw
13,
From O go down
in
inches as indicated by the points
20 and 34.
lines across
from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these
GIRLS SACK.
lines.
When
all
35
these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the
outlines of the back.
For the side-body use the same process and you
made double-breasted by adding
1
J,
will
have the
inch in front of the breast
all
the
full
size.
way down.
It
can be
86
l'.RAIDED
IACKET.
DOUBI.E-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.
C
37
DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET
BRAIDED JACKET
38
— LADY's
JACKET.
BRAIDED JACKET.
FIG. 20.
This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear.
They
made
are
having the buttons close together, and have the ap-
single-breasted,
The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a to the front. round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding. The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 3(3 breast, 25 waist the length may be regupearance of a Jersey.
;
In drafting this pattern use inches for
lated to taste.
all
the figures on the draft.
DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.
FIG. 21.
The
This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket.
front
is
double-breasted towards
the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button In order to enlarge the draft to full size, for all the figures
The The
on the
jacket itself
should appear,
The
The
jacket
is
style
new
it
and general
added on
effect at
which
will
be acceptable to
It
is
made with
a moderate addition
and the button holes are worked
to the fore-part,
many
once denote the character of the garment.
outdoor wear.
now used
together, as the buttons
LADY'S JACKET.
style of lady's jacket,
well adapted for
for double-breasted
This garment, as
seen by the illustration.
drafts illustrate a
for street wear.
put on to the cape.
is
held together by an agraffe ornament.
is
FIG. 22. These
a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches
finished at the neck with a collar, which
is
may be
is
draft.
the neck,
front, at
which
used.
is
are so very small
;
therefore,
on
this jacket,
in close
they are
placed only one inch apart.
The
A
medium made at the
waist
lap-over
is
is
length,
and the
skirt can
be made to
suit the height of the lady.
centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close
together.
The pockets may be put
in
at the side
like a coat pocket, or
leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening.
ornamented with buttons.
Pockets, however, are only put
in
only a flap put on,
In the latter case
when
is
it
it
can be
cut longer than
Figure.
The
sleeves are narrow, finished by a
This
by the measure of the arm.
is
row of buttons, and can be regulated
in
width
very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve
as close as possible.
The
darts are cut
point, as a
that It
it
down
to the bottom,
which
is
more preferable
seam looks better which runs continuously
reaches only to the hip,
must always be borne
in
will,
mind
to the bottom.
to
running them to a
Cutting the dart so
unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at
that the spring
must be allowed
its
lower end.
to rise at the side-seam.
39
lady's jacket.
The sudden difference
rise of a
between the
and the marked
lady's hip,
size of the waist
and of the
body but a few inches below, make it extremely freedom difficult to obtain the necessary amount of for the
prominence of the
figure at
this part of the
body.
The bottom edge
of this
jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk,
which
is
held on tight
so that the edge
may
cling
close to the dress-skirt.
The
collar
is
cut like a
coat-collar
and the
rolls short.
A
lapel
narrow bind-
inch wide ing o one-half put on the edge on
goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material,
the
stitching
more
looks
appropriate.
The
button-holes run
the bottom of the of jacket
skirt.
makes up
down
to
This form
well
in
fine
diagonal or brocaded velvet.
For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will
make very
stylish gar-
ments.
The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the
Figure, and then
it
is
equally as well adapted to be worn
with any dress, as illustrate.
in
the shape
we
is
all
SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.
40
SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.
FIG. 23.
Figure 23 represents a long,
They
are
of inches on each line
as
body, front and sleeve.
number
close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, sideall
drawn by measuring the
lines,
and placing the
designated by the numbers shown on
the
Figure.
Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and
draw the finish
lines across at rigfht ang-les with the line O.
these figures are
all
located,
by drawing the outlines.
Draw
the straight line
the figures on the lines F"or the front,
The
sleeve
is
— when
//$
at
these are line
when these are drawn from O down as
width, as
right angles with
6y
to the desired length for the side-body; at
;
inches for length as well
drawn
O down
draw the straight
both length and width
line
When
all
apply
fixed curve the outlines.
down from O, and mark all
"28.V
the
number
of irches for
fixed finish the outlines.
to the required length, applying the
shown
;
after these
have
the line O, draw the outlines.
all
number
of
been found, and the
After the upper part of
JACKET OR CLOAK.
the sleeve has been drawn cut
out
it
41
then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay
;
draw
the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and it
the back of upper-sleeve
like
draw
;
the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and
fix
for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as
JACKET OR CLOAK— FROM A WAIST PATTERN.
FIG. 24.
The method which that can be used,
and
little
explained below
is
will invariably
one of the most handy, as well as the
is
produce good
must have the essential
that the original pattern
would be of
results.
It is
qualities of
evident, in the
and good
fit
when
are prepared to furnish these patterns
or have
it,
on hand
it
first
place, it
In order to get in
;
easiest,
otherwise
lines,
value as a base or guide to produce another garment.
such a waist pattern one must be able to design
we
shown.
the latter case
ordered.
THE back: draw a
In drafting a jacket pattern, first
O-G)
line (like
on the edge of your paper.
Lay the back against the line at O and within \ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3. Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length 1
;
O
wanted from
and
to 5
and then curve outside of
Make from
draw a
line at 10 than at
H
this, at
line
point
over to
From
10.
draw a straight
5 to 9
to
7,
7,
and
down
to 10.
This line should be no further away from the
first
same
or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the
Now,
7.
line
starting at
4,
line,
about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.
8,
the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point
this point
from
and draw a
9
slightly curve
to
as at waist,
and go one-half inch outside of
7
straight line to 10.
THE SIDE-BODY. In this case, as on the back,
O
to 10.
Now
From
in
ance on the back, as from 6 to
7.
seam.
as possible the first
line
9,
from
it
is
point 9
square across to 3,
past
to the waist.
as
same shape
7,
to 10.
The
;
10,
is
O, and swing
at
O
to 1\.
O
it
away from the
Then move 1
straight line from
draw a
to
line at the
the pattern one-fourth
to 3 just one-fourth inch for
one-half the distance allowed over and above the allow-
Now
curve the side-body from
as the original.
which runs from
length, which
At
5 to 6
we do
which would leave from
the last line,
go
the
it,
thing
Trace along the pattern from
away from
for the
first
lay the side-body against
waist 1] inch. inch
the
to 10.
Then from
Now
5
draw a
apply the back from
2 to 5,
line
keeping as nearly
down
2 to 9
parallel with
and regulate the
then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to
and
also
draw a
straight line from 1{ to 10,
This curve should be more round near
hip, or
it
actually
to curve
begin to curve closer
curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to
thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than
and begin
9.
is.
8,
may be
gradual,
[ACKET OR CLOAK.
4-2
THE FRONT. First line,
draw the straight
touching at the centre
bottom
at
3.
line like of
O-B.
Lay the
fore-part
the breast, B, and trace along
Next move the pattern back one-half
of the pattern it
inch to B.
at
against this
the front from
On
to the
Trace along the arm-hole
without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a neck.
1
trifle
at
the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-
body on top of the
front,
touching point 15, and at the waist at
20,
and
finish
the balance
WALKING COAT.
from 20
to 22
Now
by the side-body.
from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom,
point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at
bottom
at the
curved by a sweep, straighten
two darts inch,
and a cut It is
darts can be
ance
this
under the arm from 16
as well as
in
any manner.
in
where
it is
a collar for this jacket
intended to
from curved line of neck at 13 to 11
roll,
is
from
line
one-half inch
down from
this
line
one inch and curve the break, as shown from
11 to E.
From
line at F,
and thence along the neck
11 to 13
draw a
which
to E,
then drop
;
make
11 to 12
^ inch
is
curve this also to neck-
;
and shape
From
to the front.
the part of collar which
to 2 inches wide,
is
to turn over
1^-
to the front at G.
Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.
AND
FIGS. 25 By using
26.
WALKING
COAT.
a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-
coat can be cut in the most ready manner.
The back
the
is
same
measure from the top down
From
as a sack-jacket.
to the length of
here add the lap for pleats
;
only 1^ inch; box pleats, according to
The
side-body
is
We
open
only
skirt A.
single pleats require size, 2 to 4 inches.
cut off at a length to correspond to 2
on back, plus one-half
inch,
and curved up some towards
side seam.
The
front
is
made
as long as the
bottom swept from the shoulder-point. leave the skirt in pieces as
Now
1,
2,
3
and
side-body, and the
When
cut
it
will
4.
take these pieces and lay them down, closing at
hip, so that
the opening will be no
more
at
bottom than
at
top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.
Now 4
draw along the
draw towards
10,
5,
skirt at
back from 4 to
raise one-half inch
curving pattern at front.
a straight line, and
front, at B, 3 inches, at waist
after
15.
From
above the pattern
to
it
has been
Instead of
one can be increased one-hall
to 17.
out altogether without altering the bal-
left
To produce C,
and
used, as shown,
intended for plush goods the
is
B draw
At the bottom,
as shown.
it
evident that two darts can be put
when the same
one, or
is
also taken out
is
3 to
one-half inch above the sweep in the centre.
it
back only one
at the
and shape
3 inches,
From
B.
Figure given, add on to the
for a double-breasted jacket, as the
2^ inches,
43
WALKING-COAT.
44
Put
Add
11 to 16 trace alone the
front,
and also alone the bottom.
the pleat behind.
The the
From
in a dart at 7.
side-body
in this
Figure
is
laid in a closing position at side, point
seam must have a continuous curve from
The
distance from
1
and
2
to
3,
1
and
with
to the front,
inch
is
show
that
noted, and the skirt
11 should be just the
more added, which
fore the skirt will
and
4 to 5-7 1
to
2 to the front.
and from there from
2,
is
seamed on
be noticed that
in
is
pressed
same in be-
to the fore-part.
It
laying the pieces of the
of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13,
but at the top and bottom they are sep-
arated, equal
one opening, the
distances, the
and
amount the
forward.
The
inch
1
fullness
cut at 7 fullness
is
reduces equalizes
greater at 9
and
addition for single and double-
breasted in front
is
made by adding on
of the fore-part and also
on to the
skirt
breasted
inch
for a
1
:
for a single-
is
enough, but
double-breasted from 2 to
3 inches
is
required.
^^
DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.
DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.
FIG. 27. Commence System
and
this
by drafting on the same principle as
— by drawing line from
to 10 2 inches;
from 11
O
to F.
to 10
O
From
go down
Draw
;
at C,
O
a line from
and F draw right angle 11
to
l.1,,
all
drafts
to 11
— by the
Proportionate
three-fourths of an inch,
curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of
the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to
32 inches
45
and one from
D
.V
to
and
to
F
the
full
length,
From C to the back is 1^ F; make the width of back from
lines across. 1
18 inches
inch
;
14 to
4G
2
From O
inches wide.
G
to
and
B
to
midway between these two points
is
4{,
down from
also
J,
Where
A
line
M
inch above
From Y
inches.
Commence
to
inch, equal
1
J
;
draw
lines
over from
G
from
to 7 inches;
to
A and B. From H is one-fourth of
one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G,
is
J to N.
draw another
crosses line G, at M,
and draw
to V,
JACKET.
one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch
is
one-third of breast and
is
breast, or
H
A
and
breast,
B
NEWMARKET
DOUBI.E-ISREASTED
to 10
;
raise one-half
a curved line from 10 to V.
V
arm-hole from
to curve the
M
from
line
M
to
and H, dropping one-fourth inch below
breast-line at 15.
between
In the centre,
M
and G, begin
draw the back
to
to 2 at waist,
with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from
C
equal to that from
Go where
S,
it
and
20.
down from
;
From L
to
Curve the neck
V
U
;
piece under the
is
I
and
A
to
I
on the front from
one-half inch,
arm
I
to
and
1
J,
inch above the line S-1S.
U
;
raise slightly
seam which runs
draft.
same down from L
U
it
to T.
and place the length of shoulder from
line,
shape the front of shoulder by dropping below
above
Point
line at
at 12.
to
H, going out beyond the
line
H
at
13 about
inch.
Draw from
T, at the front, outside of
inside of front line one-fourth inch at
In the middle, this
and H,
the
distance,
fix
between
J
K
and
one-half inch, thence to
J
N
taking out
1
and H, locate a point inch between 2 and
3,
;
from 8 to
at
to
which
and
between the
darts,
is
at waist,
going
will
From K
in the centre,
between
across the waist, measure
1-?,,
be 16 inches; deduct the
from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches,
7,
K
bottom.
for the dart,
From K
darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each.
one dart
P
to point
another point for the back dart.
size of waist, 12 inches,
is
3
inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches
is 1-|
draw a straight
Finish drawing the arm-hole from
one half
is
one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the
from
be about
seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4
should be shaped somewhat like
this
will
under the arm to
line
level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front
The
Z
to
the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14,
curve up to 21, which latter point
same
5.
from 4 to 5
make
3 to 4, curve the
From S
on the
10 to
one inch and shape the side-body from
ease over the hips; also
give
is
2 to 3
F
there,
2.
touches the back;
it
same from
the
20
from
in
to
and from
to 9
three-fourths inch
is
;
is
to
be taken out
2 inches;
from
in
from 9 to 8
7 to 6 is
another
About 2^ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N
dart of 2 inches.
and at
N
6,
it is
;
one-half inch below straight line.
Make
the lapel straight on
centre of breast,
To draw line to R,
the back.
in
its
inside edge,
and
2
inches at waist, and 3 inches at
width, and shape like Figure.
the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a
then curve
it
about one-half inch more over the hips.
From S draw
Regulate the length by
the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body
47
TRAVELING ULSTER.
N
at 21,
thence to
put
two cuts on the
in
Should
it,
;
from
N
forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down
hip, of one-half inch each,
on measuring, be a
little
and the
skirt will
be right to
fit
;
also
the body.
too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever
overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.
A
flap can
be put on over the
FIG. 28.
A
Spring and Fall garment
Figure and
is
hips.
An
ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.
TRAVELING ULSTER. for
traveling or outdoor wear
is
represented by this
a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged
by simply using inches
for the
numbers marked upon
traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons
down
it.
The
to the bottom,
draft
is
a close-fitting
and has a
collar
which
TRAVELING ULSTER.
48
turns over, as represented by iron,
at the
nicely.
lower edge, before
Fig. it
is
5.
sewed
The back has
is
always adopted by tailors
at its centre,
front has a large dart cut in
attached to the body
— but
the hips pockets are put
For use
makes
a
in
as a traveling
handsome
in
it
is
street paletot
it
will
cling
around the neck
superior to the usual custom of or other ladies' garments.
which can be put
lap,
— that
sewed
covered with liberal
garment
may
in
a box-pleat or
has a simple pleat.
one piece
the side-body
far
is
it
making jackets
below the waist, a
lapped over like a coat, and at the side
it
on, in order that
This way of making and sewing on a collar
dressmakers, and
The
This collar should be well stretched with the hot
is,
in
like a sack coat,
having the
as cut, in a separate piece.
skirt
Over
flaps.
be well to make
when made out
out of waterproof cloth, but
of diagonal cloth or melton.
73
Fig. 29.
it
7k
NEWMARKET.
FIGS. 29
AND
accordance with the directions.
First
NEWMARKET.
30.
This style of Newmarket has only one
draw
49
dart.
Proceed to make a
a straight line 0,
and mark
full
off the
down from O, as given on the Figure at these points draw lines these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed of inches
;
part of the garment.
P
i
2fr
size draft in
across, to
number and on
draw each
50
RIDING-HAUIT.
•.IN
RIDING-HABIT.
FIG. 31. The demand and
51
RIDING-HABIT.
orders for these garments have, so
been considerable
far,
who make them
leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those for the highest fashionables, but especially to those
who are not often who have a horse and
it
is
called
upon
make
to
at their disposal,
this style of
who
are located
in the
smaller towns and
in
There are now many
garment.
and whose chief enjoyment
equestrian exercise,
in
is
ladies
know how
quite necessary, not only tor the tailor but the dressmaker, to
a riding-
At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their
habit should be cut and made.
a tailor to
make a
stylish
dressmakers.
The
first
thing necessary
is
a
good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be
as a well-setting,
cut,
comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without
The
it.
jacket has a few pecu-
iarities
:
There should be no
down the
the middle of the back
one
cut
;
side-body and back
front,
are
seam
below the
inch
natural waist.
The pleat
and back form a
skirt
the skirt-pleat of a
like
coat.
The buttons should be small
The
and round.
buttoned up
tightly
The be
with
wadded and side,
waist,
at wrist.
inside of jacket should
lined
rows.
are
sleeves
It
carefully
silk,
stitched
in
close
should have a belt
in-
<eam
at
stitched to each
which
is
to close
it
tight
to the form.
The Figures we give show to advantage some of these The draft peculiarities. is
a
a
good model of such
habit,
and
sally adopted,
is
univer-
being both
suitable
and elegant.
"looks
quite
It
English"
CIRCULAR.
52
and very
A
pretty.
standing collar of
plain
white linen should be worn with
man's cravat of black
made with is
the lapels turning
the
if
down
a
jacket
is
scarf
flat
more appropriate.
We "
or
silk,
and a gentle-
it
an
article
published
Gazette
of
Fashion
"
to
Munster's
This
habits.
more
this
add
fully posted, not
here but what "
enable
will
We
is
of the newest
of
our readers
what
only on
which we
the waist,
has been maintained, although
it
jacket-skirt
a firmness.
two holes
in
it,
has not been increased; and the jacket-skirt
is
about the same
fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar rounded off
It is
The
style of a lady's riding-
of
is
is
The edges
is
train.
at front
runs
lined with cloth, or interlined with
The edges
the sleeves lined with light colored
are usually
trimmed with
Ball buttons
silk.
a
is
A
at
the
an angle from
article of substance,
small square tab, with
fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top
narrow
and fancy
off at
some
of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom.
sewn across under the bottom of the back, and
of the back part of
and
cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore,
the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part, and it
worn
is
our publication to the representation
The lengthening
last year,
in length.
to give
be
to
keeping with London styles:
in
and most fashionable
habit in wear.
front.
riding-
have devoted one of the plates issued with the
current number
reported
on
in
silk
silk braid,
sewn on
flat,
and the body and Five or six
buttons are generally used.
buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.
Some of
ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits,
adornment
to the bodies
have made them perfectly
plain, with the
and eschewing
all fictitious
aids
by way
edges turned in and stitched, and smoked
pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.
Veils are no longer considered correct,
no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate
in
character
and out of place with the " billy-cock " hat.
The
train, as
now worn,
bottom, with a narrow
hem
is
only,
only cut a few inches longer than the walking length.
and the V's taken out
Colored habits are being worn
The
also worn.
turned up
shades of brown, olive and green
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not too
light.
wear riding trousers.
They
and scanty
are usually
trains
made
makes are not
so
the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian
is
of the
making up
so appropriate.
same cloth
as the habit, with a fly-front
leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and at
at the
Blue and black are
small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their
inevitable consequence of short
exercise, to
is
seams are covered with ribbon.
Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the
satisfactorily.
One
in rich
at the
It
a
open
to
narrow strap
bottom."
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for
ing
it
to
measure use the same principle as
on Fio-ure
7
and draw the
skirt like that
on
FIG. 32.
all
numbers on the
laid
down
last
Figure.
for waists,
draft.
But
and lengthen the
in draft-
skirt as
CIRCULAR.
O-S and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is inch inside of line at one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and the waist.
Draw
lines
1
.V
CIRCULAR.
touching front-line at pattern at
and
J,
draw a
2
Draw along
line
and make a point
as
shown
If a
seam
in
1
to
F and from
the centre at
bottom edge
2,
to
1,
and add
be, ;
3.
on the front shoulder, 4.
Now
Apply the length from
and using point
to the
3 as a pivot
then square the bottom at
5,
from
H
to 5
sweep from and
in
front
the Figure.
is
wanted draw a
line
3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7
For a
in
what the garment should
5 to the front for the lower or 4,
Draw from
H
along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to
for full length of
at
the top of the back from
for seams, one-half inch.
From
to F. 1
1,
J.
53
close back, curve from
H
through the centre from F and take out about
and
6 to
8.
along the back to 1+ and thence to 5 at bottom.
54
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
FIGS. 33 In
make
O
to
J.
H
making
AND
garment we
a pattern of this
is
and
draw
first
From O down
a point on the right end, as O. I
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
34.
on the edge of paper and
a line
one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. I
are at right angles with 2'/2
From
back-line.
first
third of breast, equal to 6 inches,
O
7 4^
and draw
inches,
place 2 or
2-1
-
and the whole length
and curve the
Make 5
to
\
Go
to R.
back, at
and
making
O
on
line raising
it
1
.V
and
wide
The
and curving
to A, the neck,
Lay the back on on the
Now
line at C.
in this position,
to the point
Square is
A
inch
1
1
from
curve
at
11,
and should
more than from
inch
1
D
run of this line
D
to 11.
5.
draw a straight
front (Figure 34)
From O
all
and R.
one-half inch at
one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. points.
in
top line
line
O
from
From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2JFrom O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O IZ l>
is
I
2-|-.
bottom.
V
also be wider at bottom, about
For the
inch,
Next, from
inches
at
should be nearly straight past
draw a
1
from straight line at
in
waist, 4
through waist at 11 to 12
2Jj-
and add 5.
O
over on the line place one-
right back-seam from \ to
the
Between
to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches,
1
From
I
inches and curve from \ to
Measure down from
J
up
a line
From
place three-fourths of an inch.
to
J.
inches.
K
to
is
lines across at all these
one-sixth of breast.
and extreme shoulder resting
draw along the back shoulder while
and also curve from C
to 12,
it is
which should only
be 4 inches below C.
From K go
out to
H
one-quarter of the breast, less
Having established
equal to 8 inches.
shoulder easier, as seen by dotted
this
we can curve
K
Measure from
lines.
inch,
1
the
over
on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.
Fig. 33.
Now
that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13,
be placed as seen
in
the distance from
K-H
half
and one-third of
down
13 to 14 4 inches
way
lay the back-line against this last point in such a
Figure
Then
35.
and
carefully
measure
to the back-line will
the back and
reducing it
it
it
at
will
to see
if
be exactly one-
Then curve from
breast, or 27 inches.
from the position as
and so that
12 to
the bottom about
would be when the back
is
laid
as stated.
Now
by the length of the back regulate that of the
then sweep by the point of shoulder
/2
71
point,
and part of
this round, as
A
from 10 to
J.
front,
This
and
latter
produced by the sweep, should
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
be shortened about
1
inch.
Curve the neck from
A
to
55
B,
and add
1
inch
all
alono- the
front for a turn-in hem.
From where
the back
lies
against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of
sleeve-head.
The upper
part of the sleevediead should be gathered-in considerable, and at
notch should be placed to
Figure 35.) '/G
facilitate the
sewing
in, for
O
a
notch should be sewn on notch. (See
CLOSED CIRCULAR.
56
FIG. 35.
CLOSED CIRCULAR.
After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay
and cut without a seam from are
seamed
up, gather in the
O down
to the bottom.
round of sleeve from
O
For
B.
This makes a wrap with a back wing and a
opening can be
A their
left for
the hands to go through, as
short cape, such as have been
appearance here,
is
worn
for
against the front
this shape, after the
forward.
front.
shoulders
The same can be
the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom,
from
it
in a straight
When
cut in this
cut like
down manner an line
shown on the Figure, below E.
some time
in
Europe, and are just making
cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist.
This same
DOLMAN.
57
wrap can be cut from a clolman pattern by laying the sleeve
dolman on
of a
to front so that the
notches come
front
together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or
till
within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder,
then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve. If a line
is
drawn through the shoulder-point, next
to
the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back
shoulder-point
laid
sleeve at blade,
it
and
on
this
line
and closing against the
represent exactly this circular cape,
will
be one of the easiest ways to make
will
The Figure
it.
shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted from
E
forward, as
it
appears when lying
they
handsome
in
may be
Vrf
}.).,
vT"^ V* ^)\
line
in position.
These several wraps can be made of lined, or
^<f?4\
and
silk,
fur-
of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are
shape and
outline
when
As be much
correctly cut.
they are so different from the old circular they will
sought
because of the
after,
newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize
with
the
increased preva-
lence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.
DOLMAN.
FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. Draw
O-H From O
a line
of an inch.
make
from O, down, mark three-fourths
draw a short
From O down
inches.
2-^
it
;
line
to
B
over to is
the centre, between of the waist,
and
to
O and B H the full
from f to
;
one-fourth of
Point
breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast.
D
and
3,
is
F
is
the length
length of garment.
Draw
B and D. Between F and B, directly make a mark C, and draw a line across.
lines across at F,
the centre,
Go from
|
at
in
to
1-J-
From
H.
the waist
13,
inch from line at
for the centre of back,
1^,
at
waist,
measure
in
D
;
draw
and curve below to 4
in
in
line
D
to
3^ inches to 4
inches,
On
line
C make
the width of back one-third of breast
and one inch and draw a
On raise
it
line up.
the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and
one-half inch above 14
;
commencing
there, exactly
DOLMAN.
58
at
the
crossing
finished the
of the
back,
first
begin to curve past 16 and 4 to
lines,
make
a
line across in the middle,
next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular at
15,
below
swing
it
down
line E, at 13,
will give exactly the
till
size,
on 15 as when sewn
the upper part of
and when
in
this
between
position
in
bottom.
1
at
|-
and
F, from
Having
E
over
the arm-hole; holding
;
it
the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch
draw along the round of the
round as shown on the Figure from
15, past 13, to 2.
sleeve,
which
DOLMAN.
59
Next, placing the width over from B on the back
line,
measure
curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches.
below the waist, and from
draw from
6,
which
is
this place
inch
1
to 10, 24 inches,
Point
G
more than one-quarter of
about 12 inches
is
the hips to
one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9
constructed by drawing a line from
From
O
over to shoulder point
O down
is
width of shoulder as the back on the there draw a line over to 8 and
make
;
same down
curve the neck from \ to
front,
and
The
front
the front edge or centre of front.
one-sixth breast, the
one-eighth breast and draw a line across
8,
then finish the
;
curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. is
and
\ to 10
last point,
From O down
3, is
to 3
;
also
go down
and apply the same one-half breast to E,
from E, one-fourth breast
less 1 inch.
DOLMAN.
60
Measure the distance on the back, from B
H, and place
to
E to P, then sweep Make the distance
from
it
the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K.
over from
K
through
to
L
to J to L.
J
one-quarter of the hips, and
;
mark and space the
The
under-sleeve
find
how much
point
make another
6 to
Add
draw a
inch more;
i-
from
line
K
and place the same from
up
3 inches for a lap of double-breasted
cut like the upper part from 2 to 10
is
inside curve from 2 to 7
10 inches from 14.
1 '.Âť
buttons.
The
this
to
1
Next measure the back from
curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L.
;
style
H
is
should be
short, just
we make
This measure,
What
notch.
as
11, like the
needed
is
sew
to
a notch opposite 14 and one at is
marked
from 16 to
L must
inch,
less 1
is left
curve should be like curve on front.
much
as
and
draw a
Lastly,
from
the front
in
which
2,
to
7,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to
about
is
and
16,
be placed from 2 to
from
line
10
outside curve.
at that
and
this
which finishes
7 to the star,
the whole garment. In order to draft a
the
dolman pattern which
same manner of drafting
will
well
fit
and hang with a good balance
good shaped sack should be
as that which produces a
then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as sack,
and a dolman can then be cut as close as
The manner
/
>
The
the shape of the sleeve.
must be
_ r'
in
a tight-fitting
in
so desired.
if
of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in
main difference being JV
a sack,
used,
fact,
just like a sack, the
even
sleeve,
the upper part,
in
an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part
like
*~ ..
may be any In
make
drafting
(Figure 37)
O
of the various shapes in fashion. line
O down
from
;
a
over to top line
1.
From O
to
B
Point
D
is
fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size.
middle, between
O
tween
and D.
measure down Point
length.
O
to
E
and
to
to 7 inches;
H
is
6
6 inches, or one-third of breast,
is
At
all
F.
waist-line
Make
the
one-third and
up
line
go
to
inch, equal,
1
in
;
1
from 3 to
6 at
I,
mark point K.
C
down from
Also draw a straight
on 36 breast,
the middle, between
from straight line
in
below
these points draw lines across.
one-half inches, then draw line 3 to
in
one-
;>,
draw a
waist-line
is
the middle, be-
in
is
the point where the two lines cross and H,
At the
F
to
From which is the top of the back, C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full
the waist-line at C.
From B
and point
B,
O
three-fourths inch, and from
is
inches to
is 2]-
on from
start
to
to 3
f to 3
one and
and from
right angles with
line at
bottom.
the width at waist, from 3 to
4,
about 3 inches,
down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place and draw from
also a line
7 to 8,
Draw
and curve from 4 past
a line from
I
to
1,
raise
5 to
above
8. I
to J three-fourths
DOLMAN.
and curve the shoulder.
inch,
4
and 8;
line
also
shows
mark
a
dim
Point
that.
line
G
Starting from
from
J
past
E
it
3
it
curve
line,
to G, just like in a sack
back seam
back
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the
to
dotted
C
to
3,
is
a trifle outside of the straight line,
runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below
inside
seam from
past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to
J
curve only near the waist, and from 5
below point
Now head
E
down
it
must have the same curve as outside
line
to F.
have a sleeve cut
rests against the line
for a 36 size
from
K
to
I
;
and lay then
in
this
on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve-
the centre, between
I
and K,
find point 2
stick a pin.
Now it
up upright
curves outside again to F.
The
and
J
one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.
is
Notice that the curve on the back, from
and that below
K
I,
61
pinned
turn to Figure 38: at 2,
move
In the middle,
between
line
A
and D, draw
the lower part of the sleeve towards the back
till
line
E
;
keeping
the top of the sleeve-
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
DOLMAN.
62
head just touches
line
along the top from
2 to
sleeve
pattern,
to
E
at
10 and
9,
also
sleeve, but
we modify
down from
10, inside of
point 9 of sleeve,
down
line
the centre, between
in
from
First
draw
B and
C, which places
D.
Then point
take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at
and without moving the sleeve
2,
this point
move
point and
D
this
done take hold of the sleeve
is
upwards,
it
T
point
till
for-
at its lower
To produce
this
curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line
and place the same from 17
at 17, line
at
from 19 to
and
From N
thence to N.
20,
and
15,
and 14
another
for
Go
sleeve,
an inch
5 three-quarters of
touching the back, and along
10, past 2,
U
or from
to
21
style.
from 4 to
in
on line
16, resting
curve form of sleeve to 21
one style of
to 13 for
D
and draw a straight
to 19,
then curve line from
18,
;
of sleeve rests on
N, and then curve from 16 to N.
at
U
stick a pin at point
found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve
is
When
ward.
line
lines
line
to 12.
Fieure 39 eives the balance of the sleeve. a line
front of
9, in
by drawing a corrected
it
draw
lays thus
it
This gives the outline of the
B.
line
While
10.
past line B, and
it
thence separate from the back to 5 and 14
curve from
;
this last line
must
---i-LLLU-Ii-l-"-
L
"
touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is
marked
5
on the same.
THE FRONTâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; FIG. Lay bottom
H
back down on paper and extend
the
Measure from Z
line.
one-third of breast and
is
Draw
a line
up
at
to
A
H
one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and
Draw
L
to
8,
a line from
L
and curve from
front of line
P
to
K
From
6.
the last point
it
6
is
one-fourth of breast, equal to
Mark
at A.
to 7
and
is
A
line
also.
4.',
From K
inches. to
L
is
the same, 3 inches; curve neck.
and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from upwards above the line one-fourth inch draw from 8 down in
8
;
will
be three-fourths inch
the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly
curve to
D
D
to
This
9.
P
to
and one up and down
P,
the lines across, line A, B, C,
on line B. one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to
inch;
1
all
40.
draw down
should be about
to 1
5,
which
down is
to
in
front of line P.
midway between
Let lines
this
curve of
B and C, and
three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17
\ inch over the straight line
drawn down from
4
;
at
on the
back.
From from
B,
from
T
point G, which, as before stated,
draw ;
a straight line
also curve
from
G
is
down. Curve from to 12, 14
and
19.
one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches
G
to 12, 13
Point 19
is
and
18
the
same distance from
;
the last point
is
2
inches
T
as 18.
DOLMAN.
Draw bottom the
line.
Add
in
line
front
from 19 to 30 at over
F
line,
front,
for
(,:>,
where curve three-fourths inch below
double-breasted 3
inches,
and
for
single-
breasted 1^ inches.
Now we measuring
point
is
in
have only to show how the under-sleeve
first
the sleeve-head from O, where point
middle, between 9 and 18.
of fullness in the sleeve-head front from 8 to 10
part 10, hold
it
it
and notched.
there with a pin,
This
will
leaves us only
Lay sleeve
move
it
till
produced.
of the back
is
This
sewn on,
is
done by
to 16,
which
measure 1<H inches; as we put in 1 inch inches, which is measured down the
H
notch, line
J
is
marked
16,
on to notch on the
on sleeve, marked C,
will lay parallel
fore-
with
DOLMAN.
64
any of the
lines, as
C
from notch at 10 to
B on
or
N
Then mark on
fore-part.
N
of sleeve, and from
P and A, and
fore-part line 10 to O,
will
to 21
;
the fore-part along the sleeve,
the sleeve will
now be marked on
the
be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to
A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.
The duce any
principle as given in this article style of
dolman.
is
suitable,
The change necessary
any shape of arm-wing, does not
and the only thing necessary,
for the short or
much
fullness
enough extra goods in to meet the
amount
alter the principle.
in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting
to pro-
long pointed sleeve, or for
Pleated backs, or very
required for pleats or fullness.
When more
fullness
is
wanted
in
is
cut addition
is
made where
pleats are wanted.
the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan
is
and a
or 2 inches,
The fit,
it
required, about
little
principle, as
and yet
more round put on the top. shown in this book, will produce
When
to cut the sleeve
two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as
in 1
a regular pattern
may be urged upon
all
using
it,
for
every style of garment a correct
that in order to produce
new
styles, or gar-
ments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader's
own
judgment must necessarily help to carry him through. In conclusion, let
addressing
me
I
will
me
say
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; that
any point or measuring that does not seem
always be ready to enlighten to the best
of my
ability.
clear,
by
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
/
nil B 014 062 021
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