Class
Ij
J\
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Book Copyright N"_
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
u
The International Cutting School's
System By
L.
GIBSON
New York First Edition, 1909,
Gutting
of
One Thousand Copies Third Edition, 1913,
—
Chicago
Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies
One Thousand Copies
COATS (PART ONE)
Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 by L. Gibson, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.
ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED (Printed ia tbe United States)
H. C. Adair, Priming, 107-1)1 N. Markcl
Si.,
Chicijo,
III.
COATS
§
\
Preface to Second Edition Give
to the
world Knowledge, and knowledge pre-
sented simi)ly, acceptably.
World.
It is
The Greatest Thing in the human
not the fault of the masses of
beings that they go through
work
ignorant of the great
life
that the students of the world have done for
Knowledge is not presented properly. It should be and it could be given to the people in such shape as would make it easier to read than to stop. them.
The
greatest task that any
man
could undertake
is
the presentation to his fellow-men of knowledge, simply, attractively,
and put before the millions of readers
at frequent intervals, in relatively small installments,
always with a beginning and an end satisfying to the mind. If you want a well-fed, well-developed body
you give
to that
body
a certain limited
amount
of well-
prepared food at very frequent intervals. To have well-fed, well-developed brains in this world you must give to those brains at frequent intervals well-pre-
That is the big task that some man some organization of men will one day carry out. The education of children is -a great and important work. The education of Growing Men will one day be greater and more important. The great task of pared mental food.
or
our day is Distribution the problem of production has been solved. Our fertile earth and the fertile brains of men have produced food enough for body and for mind. There are bodies and brains with food ;
and knowledge close by, as there are deserts that stretch beside the Mediterranean Sea.
You
will see the real
the average to the few,
of
beginning of civilization when
man shall know when the earth
as
much
as
is
now known
shall be a great republic
knowledge and every human brain a thinking
dynamo contributing human power which
—
Idea carried out
its is
in this
i
share to the
human
thought.
of
total
That
is
the
THE AUTHOR.
work by
10
©CI.A:»54 29
sum
i
1
§
COATS
1
Contents '
The Study Habit The Right Way to Read
1 1
How
1
1
Study
to
Measuring
How
Section. Page.
Section. Page.
5
Chesterfield Corpulent
3
5
6
Box Overcoat
3
6
7
D. B. Frock Overcoat
3
9
7
D.B.Ulster
3
10
1
12
Inverness with Cai)e
3
12
1
13
Shoulder Cape
3
14
rroportion Sack
1
14
Cape, Half Circle
3
14
Remarks on the System
1
17
Cape, Three-Quarter Circle
3
15
Chesty Coat
1
18
Circular Cape
3
15
1
20
Table of Proportions,
3
16
D. B. Sack
1
21
Tables of Proportions
3
18
Long
1
22
Making Up
3
20
Exaggerated Sack
1
24
\'est,
Measuring
4
1
Norfolk with Belt
1
26
Vest,
Normal
4
3
Norfolk Yoked
1
27
Vest, Dress
4
6
Norfolk Pleated
1
28
Vest, D. B.'s
4
7
Tuxedo Peak
1
30
Vest, with Coat Collar
4
8
Tuxedo Shawl
1
32
Vest, Corpulent
4
10
Disproportion Sack
1
34
Vest, Clerical
4
11
Tall and Slim
1
37
Vest, Cassock
4
12
1
38
Table of Proportion
4
14
1
41
Trousers Cutting
5
2
1
42
Measurements
5
3
Military Blouse
1
45
Construction Lines
5
4
Collars
1
47
Openness and Close of Legs
5
6
5 5
to Draft
The Sack
S. B.
as a Basis
Sack
Roll Sack
— Degree Sack—2nd Degree Sack—3rd Degree
Short and Stout
Corpulent Corpulent
1st
Cutaway, Frock Cutaway, Stout
—
1st
Cutaway, Corpulent
Degree
—2nd
Degree
How
to
of Trousers
2
1
Cutting the Cloth
2
2
Trousers, Normal
2
5
Trousers,
Wide Hips Bow Leg
Make
5
10
5
11
Dress Without Rever
2
6
Trousers,
Dress With Rever
2
8
Trousers, Peg
5
12
2
10
Trousers, Corpulent
5
14
2
11
Corpulent,
5
15
2
12
Riding Breeches
5
16
2
14
Tables of Proportions
5
18
D. B. Stout—2nd Degre
2
17
The
6
2
D. B. Corpudent— 3rd Degree
2
18
Cutaways
6
3
Military Frock
2
21
Frocks
6
4
2
22
Skirts
6
6
Sleeves
6
7
Sacks
6
8
Vests Trousers
6
10
6
13
Dress,
Stout— 1st Degree
Dress, Corpulent
—2nd
Degree
D. B. Frock S.
B. Frock
Clerical
Frock
Narrow Hips
Principle of Grading
Knight Templar Frock
2
23
Cassock
2
25
Sleeves
2
28
Raglan Coat
3
1
Tables of Proportions
6
14
Chesterfield
3
2
Lay-Outs
7
4
3
3
Block Patterns,
8
4
Chesterfield D.
B
How
to
Use
COATS
§
Preface to Third Edition attempt to teach the principle of garment cutmust presume that certain causes will produce certain effects, and that the relation between these causes and effects has been reduced to general rules.
Any
ting
In this treatise an effort has been
known
made
to select the
and working theories that constitute the science of garment cutting today. facts
In preparing these textbooks,
it
has been our con-
stant endeavor to view the matter from the student's
standpoint, and try to anticipate everything that would cause him trouble. The utmost pains have been taken to avoid
sions
due
and correct any and all ambigious expresthose due to faulty rhetoric and those
—both
to insufficiency of
the best
way
description clear
connection with
without
make
to
is it,
statement or explanation.
As
a statement, explanation, or
diagram in have been used almost
to give a picture or a illustrations
limit.
Formerly
it
was our practice to send to each student them a set of volumes printed and
entitled to receive
bound
especially for the Course for
enrolled.
which the student
In consequence of the vast increase in the
enrollment, this plan became no longer practicable,
and we therefore concluded to issue a single set of volumes, comprising all our textbooks under the general title of
I.
C. S. Reference Library.
The
students
volumes of this Library as contain the Under this instruction to which they are entitled. plan some volumes contain one or more Papers not included in the particular Course for which the student enrolled, but in no case are any subjects omitted that form a part of such Course. This plan is particularly advantageous to those students who enroll for more than one Course, since they no longer receive volumes receive such
that are in
some cases
practically duplicates of those
This arrangement also renders it much easier to revise a volume and keep each subject up to date. Each volume in the Library contains, in addition to the text proper, the Examination Questions. The method of numbering pages and articles is such that each part is complete in itself; hence in order to make the indexes intelligible, it was necessary to give each part a number. This number is placed at the top of each page, on the headline, opposite the page number, and to distinguish it from the page number it Consequently, a is preceded by a section mark (§). reference, such as § 2, page 8, can be readily found by looking along the inside edges of the headlines until § 2 is found, and then through § 2 until page 8 is found.
they already have.
INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS.
^
— COATS
1
§
;
The Study Habit The difference between men who succeed in life and men who fail lies primarily in seeing and seizing opportunity.
We are living in They
an age of multitudinous oppor_
posts to the
man who
petus as you can
most plead with us to put out our hands and grasp them they come laden with the most tempting rewards. But each opportunity, as it passes, returns no more another may come, better or worse, but not the same one. Yet, however many and of whatever value, only he who is trained can see and seize them. It depends upon himself, and himself alone. Education fits a man to appreciate and to make the most of his opportunities. We stand on the threshold of unmeasured possibilities every industry is demanding clear brains, skilled hands, and men of disciplined minds. Wherever there is a possibility of cheapening production by new methods, of producing two articles where only one is
nature into play
;
;
;
now
available, of quickening transportation, of simpli-
fying processes, of adopting natural forces to mechanical
ends, of saving tiine or strength to the worker
do
it;
—your
Make
conscience. luill
know
life
a
the way.
Launch yourself upon the task with as much imcommand. In doing so bring all your
I.
stare us in the face every day; they
tunities.
make
desires earnestly to
success and yet does not
a
mind, imagination, heart, and
solemn vow
to yourself that
you
pledge yourself upon your honor to keep
that pledge; write your determination
upon a piece of if tempted read the obligation and remind yourself that
paper and sign to falter
your manhood
it
is
as a binding bond, and
at stake.
Decide upon the course cjf study you wish to This should be done with the utmost care pursue. after having estimated your powers to determine along II.
what
line
you are
likely
to
Usually the thing to which
one we
will be able to
reach the best result.
we
do the
turn naturally
is
the
best.
Obtain the very best textbooks available on There are three kinds of textbooks The first are written for professors and advanced students, in which all elementary knowledge is taken for granted; the second are written for students in schools and colleges, on the assumption that the teacher will conduct the class work and explain the the third are planned and difficulties as they arise written for home study; they are adapted to the student who is studying without the aid of a personal instructor; they take no previous knowledge for granted, leading the student from the elementary to the adIII.
the subject selected. :
there
is
an opportunity.
To
tion, conclusion.
Thought
teach
men
is
observation, reflec-
to think quickly, cor-
and consecutively, is the mission of education. The man who puts no thought into his work is only a mechanical device for carrying out some other man's thinking; the difference between the human machine and the mental machine being that the one feels and
rectly,
the other does not.
But education is not the mere process of gathering knowledge; a man may be taught a great many things and yet be uneducated. The brain can be stuffed just as the stomach, but if the mind food or the body food Education when properly is not digested, it is wasted. understood is the development of our powers, so directing and strengthening and disciplining them that they can achieve the ends for which they were created. Life's opportunities are entirely missed and its possibilities are unrealized by the man who has neglected
;
vanced principles by regular, easy stages; they are arranged in short lessons to fit the needs of the student who can give vonly a little time each day to study they are intensely practical, and they give the student exactly the information he needs in order to advance himself. It is this last named type of textbooks you should obtain, and the only textbooks that fully meet the requirements are those printed for International Cutting Schools students. all
the training of his intellectual abilities.
Too
we
often
tutions" as
Education
if
is
tutions, for a
think and speak of "Educational Insti-
they were the only means of education. the product of Habit rather than of insti-
man may
live
within the best educational
and unless he has cultivated the Study Habit, he will not profit by his advantage. The study habit may be considered the beginning of character building; it forms a sound foundation for all future achievements. The two most striking features of the growth of any habit, whether good or bad point the way to the man regularity and repetition who determines to form the study habit. We venture to make a few practical suggestions, such as has been tried successfully by thousands of men who now hold institutions for a lifetime
—
envied position
—
in
the world.
They may
act as guide-
rv. Set aside a definite time for study, and keep your books and papers always in one place; in this way you will waste no time in setting to work and you will find
it
more
difficult to
excuse yourself for not
doing the required amount of study.
V. Never allow an exception to your rule. Let your friends know your study hour and hold it as sacred. Put your conscience before the door as sentry and regard any theft of your time as seriously as you would regard a theft of your money. In point of fact, To make this easier you it amounts to the same thing. can set apart another time for outside engagements or pleasures say one evening a week. When you have
—
made such an arrangement, of an empire
stick to
depends on your
it
fidelity.
as
if
the destiny
:
COATS
VI. fore
If you Study at night, allow a few minutes begoing to work the next morning for review. You
will
make some
plan will
brief notes for this purpose. Such a the subject firmly in the mind and give
fix
you something
definite to think
about during the spare
moments of tiie day. It is not difficult to rise onequarter or one-half hour earlier; if you persist in it for a
week the Habit
will be acquired.
to a practical test as quickly
and as often as possible. In this way you will also form the Habit of passing readily from knowing to doing, and, becoming convinced of the value of knowledge, you will be eager to gather more.
VIII.
way
P.y
ber that
it
Habit that are the
first
To
difficult.
week than
steps in the formation of a
first
study will be more tedious and the second more
the second,
irksome than the third but the regular repetition will soon make the effort normal, and it will grow to be a ;
delight to turn the attention to serious mental work.
In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties, the following hints deserve attention.
There are certain physical conditions which make study irksome and almost impossible. Students sometimes find themselves incapable of close attention to a
—
printed page or a
mechanical drawing the effort brings weariness, headache, nervousness. They make the error of believing themselves unfitted for mental
The
work. at
—
all-
it
is
fault does not lie in their
mental powers
generally physical.
Maxims
"Principles and
should read in a
testing spirit.
Our
for the Reading of Books."
critical, that is to say,
spirit
man
;
a searching,
ought, no 'doubt, to be re-
spectful to the author of the book, well informed
but respect
is
if
he happens to be a
not
tlie
same thing
as
submission.
;
l)ut
wear glasses do not purchase them at the nearest them made under a doctor's orders and
according to his specifications.
Always keep the study; open a
air fresh in the
window whenever
room where you
possible,
if
but an
Air affects not only the lungs but the brain. In using the evening for study, observe two or three siminch.
Do
not eat heartily at supper.
Books that aim to give information, to supply facts, show the relations between facts, books that do change the reader's mind,
may
safely
.Stop after eating a
reasonable amount and before you are conscious of a
Then, after your studies are finenough nourishment may be taken, if it is felt necessary, to keep the stomach active during the early feeling of fullness. ished,
hours of sleep.
Avoid sitting so near a lamp that the heat is felt upon your head. If drowsiness threatens to put a stop to the work, a part of the work should be done standing. The change of position will insure a redistribution of the blood.
Five minutes of physical exercise
same result to a larger degree, and study may be resumed with comparative ease. will effect the
.\ny student who follows the foregoing advice is sure to succeed; and he will be better fitted morally, physically, intellectuallj',
Way
to
and financially to cope with life.
Read
be read in a searching, testing,
critical spirit.
That the
way to read them is to be temporarily submissive. Anybody who looks back over his reading years, and
only
picks out the fiction and
tlie
poetry that has really counted
most cases he read them in laid their spell upon him so strongly that his critical faculty was inhibited. Nor, if he is wise, will he be sorry that he once read them in this way. in his life, will find that in
his least critical spirit.
or to
this or that try to
their ordinary work does not reveal the fact, as soon as they begin to study under artificial light they are aware of a handicap. If it is necessary to tive sight
the problems and difficulties of
The Right One
If you suffer from such feelings, have your eyes examined by the most skillful eye specialist you can reach. A large percentage of men today have defec-
ple rules
you must remem-
of encouragement,
only the
is
1
store; have
Whatever you gain from your textbooks, put
VII.
§
They
:
COATS
How The
to
Instructions are divided into sections by suitable
and are further subdivided into lessons, each of which has a number. Study section by section, taking each lesson consecutively. Do not skip about the paper, reading here and there, but start at the beginning and go through it in the proper order. lieadings,
—
Beginning the Study of a New Subject. The greatest difficulties encountered when beginning the study of a new subject are the strangeness of the terms used,
comprehend the
the inability of the student to
useful-
ness of certain operations, and the feeling of helpless-
ness that takes hold of him. ject that is entirely
new
to
Anyone studying him
will
a sub-
Study Do Not Study Too Much at a Time.— Do not try to study too much at a time, nor attempt to study longer than an hour or an hour and a half at a sitting. If you study longer than that, your mind will become conand you
fused,
Make Haste
will
be unable to reason clearly.
Slowly.
— By "making haste slowly" you
much more
accomplish
in a given time than by hurrying through the subject before obtaining a per-
will
fect
understanding of
it
;
because, unless you really un-
derstand the subject, you will meet with difficulties further on in the course, and will then
some
stop and review
we
obliged to
of the earlier papers.
encounter these
difficulties.
—
Study Thoroughly. You must not e.xpect to underall that you study when going through a paper for the first time. The best way is to study a few pages, then if you do not understand certain statements or illustrations, it will be better for you to pass on further into the subject, rather than to spend too much time on these points, as it is very likely you will find applications of them later on in the paper that will clear up the matter. Carefuly study each section, stand
noting the various statements, drawings,
etc.
Having
one section, take up the next, and study it with the same care and in the same manner as you studied the preceding one. finished
Devote a Certain Amount of Time Each Day to If you will follow the instructions here outlined, you cannot fail. If possible, it would be well for you to devote a certain amount of time each day to the prosecution of your studies. Even though you may not be able to devote more than half an hour, the progress you will make will be surprising, providing you do not allow the program you have outlined to be interFor instance, suppose you decide that you rupted. can devote one hour a day to study; then, if you will allow no deviation from this program and will follow the method we have oultined in the preceding paragraphs, your progress will be rapid and thorough, and satisfactory both to yourself and to us. Study.
—
Measuring 1.
the
The Coat Measures. same
—Should always be taken
of beginners,
tends materially to obviate confusion
and mistakes.
The order found most convenient can be follows
set
Measurements
in
order, a plan which, particularly in the case
out as
2.
The Method
17v( inches
Breast
36 inches
Waist Hip or seat
32 inches
Strap or
2>7
first
over
Over shoulder Blade (with I34 in. for seams added)
Depth
inches
12 inches 17 inches
12^{>
inches
9 inches
of scye
Natural waist
16'4 inches
Fashion waist
18^
inches
Full length, style of garment.
Height
5
ft.
6 inches
Coat is
the result of
long experience, and as this is for the guidance of students it is very minutely described. In the
first
place, a cutter should
himself, as the
Inside sleeve
of
Measuring used
of
will create
A
show
have confidence
of nervousness or lack of
in
method
an unfavorable impression on the customer.
to proceed is usually the cause hence a cutter should follow the suggestions and the rotations as explained, which will result in his becoming methodical and expert, and free
lack of
method
of the confusion
from
all
;
confusion.
While measuring no stops should be made, nor no familiarity dis]>layed toward the customer. 3.
Measuring Coat.
ures for the coat, have
—When ready someone
to take the
to put
down
meas-
the meas-
ures; otherwise have paper and pencil ready, and do it .\ loose sheet of paper should be used, so
yourself.
;
COATS
that notes for the cutter can be put
down, afterwards
be transcribed in the measure book.
to
The measures should be taken over the vest always. Before removing the coat of the customer it is best to ascertain how the length of the coat he has on suits, as it gives you a good idea of what the customer wants measure the coat he has on for length, deducting 1^ inches from the top edge of the collar; then request him to remove his coat.
When
the coat
is off,
observe
if
the vest
close
fits
enough to take the measures over; otherwise pin it in under the arms the amount of the surplus; equal amount on each side; also at the waist line if taking measures for a frock. 4. Place the Square under the arm on the "Left" side of the customer, for the reason that the person is
more normal on the left side; also that it is more conyou are then applying all the measures with the right hand, the left hand doing nothing but holding the tape line in position (unless you should be venient, because
a left-handed person.
Place the square with the short
arm extending upwards and the long arm horizontally under the arm and close against the front of the arm; mark with the chalk in front of the square. (See Fig. 1.) Tip the square outward and down, keeping the
5.
long arm
in the
same
on top or upper side the
first
Remove
;
then
mark
of the square in front, crossing
chalk line; also
above the square. 6.
position (horizontal)
make a mark back
(See Figs. 2 and
of the
arm
3.)
the square and place the long
arm across
the back horizontally
and make a cross mark for the depth of scye, or bottom of armhole, in the center of the back.
(See Fig.
not sure of being able to do of the square under the right arm and mark back of the arm, the same as on the left side; then replace the square across the back and it
4.)
If
correctly, place the long
mark
arm
for depth of scye.
should be
in the
(See Fig. 5.) This mark center of the back, regardless of where
the vest seams run.
—
7. Waist. I^lace the square at waist line above the hip bones, from the back, the short arm of the square
resting on the hip bones, and extending forward; the is found by the feeling of your hand; then
location
mark the waist line.
(See Fig.
line.
It
can also be done with a tape-
5.)
Make a cross mark for the height of neck, \j4 inches down from the to|) edge of where the coat collar should be when finished. (See Fig. 5.) The First Measure.— Place the square under the arm with the long arm of the square extending downwards towards the hand keeping the square close up, and held in position by the right hand on the short arm of the square. Find the length of sleeve by measuring to the root of the thumb and deduct 1 inch, in the following manner: 8.
left
;
§
1
§
1
COATS
Hold the square in position with the right hand; left hand take hold over the customer's closed hand and see that the arm is at full length. Extend your index finger at the root of his thumb and note the length, say 19 inches; deduct 1 inch and call out 18 with the
inches, the inside sleeve length, and the first measure. 9.
Body Measures should be taken
closely, as there
a decided tendency with beginners to take them too If the vest and trousers worn are at all easy easy. is
fitting, it will
form into one or more folds under the
tape while the measures are being taken. The student need not be troubled by this fact, as he is supposed to
be taking the actual measures of the body, not the measures of the garment covering it.
—
Strap Measure. Place the end of the tape-line cross-mark in front of the arm, "or place the 10inch mark of the tape-line on the cross mark; a better hold on the tape with the left hand can be obtained. (See Fig. 6.) When calling out the numbers deduct 10 inches from the amount, as for example, strap 10.
at the
length would
show 22 inches;
call
out 12 inches."
COATS
10
11.
The Tape should be
held (irmly in position with
with the right hand bring it over the shoulder in as near a straight line as possible to the nape of the neck or socket bone, the cross mark made on the back. This is called the Strap, or first-over measure, and should be 12 inches.
hand
the left
12.
;
The Over-Shoulder Measure.
— Keep
the tape-
and with the right hand move shoulder, and bring it in a straight
line in position in front, it
to the center of
over the shoulder to the mark at depth of scye in This is called the (See Fig. 7.) Over-Shoulder, or Second-Over, measure, and should be 17 inches (deducting the 10 inches, if starting from line
the center of back.
10 inches). 13.
The Blade Measure.
— Place the tape-line under
the arm, and from the cross-mark in front, measure
under the arm
in a straight line over the blade to the
(See Fig. 8.) This is called the Blade measure, and should be 12^ inches in this case; this will include 1J4 inches, the width of the square from in front of the arm, wliich also will allow for five
center of the back.
seams 14.
for
making
up.
The Length Measure.
— Place
tape-line at the neck point mark,
the end of the and measure down to
depth of scye, or armhole mark, 9 inches; continue to waist line, 16;)-4 inches, and to full length desired. (See Fig. 9.)
The measures should as
9, 16^4,
15.
be called out as you pass them
;
and 30 inches.
The Breast Measure
is
taken from in front of
the customer; with the tape-line in the right hand,
about 18 inches from the end, pass it around arm, meeting the left hand behind; carry the tape around to the front, and taking hold of both ends with the right hand, holding it close, while running the left hand under the tape behind and raise it over the blades in a horizontal line; then take the end holding
it
under his
left
of the tape in the left
hand and bring the two together
across the breast; not too high nor too low,
and as
medium closeness; 36 inches. 16. The Waist Measure is taken from the front, in exactly the same manner as the breast measure, over the smallest part, or the mark made on the back; Z2 inches.
This is the only measure which should be taken snug or close, as there is always a lot of loose
fairly
cloth, also articles
of various
kinds in the pockets
of the vest. 17.
The Seat Measure
is
taken from
in front,
over
the largest part of the hip or seat; while holding the tape in front, bring the left hand around the hip and adjust the tape over the largest part, at the
pushing up any
article in the hip
same time
pockets from under
the tape line. The customer should stand with heels and toes together while this measure is taken.
§
COATS
1
11
see under \'ests (Part 4).
under Trousers (Part
For trousers measures see
5.)
This completes the measures
21.
same
are the
for the coat,
for all coats, including overcoats,
which
and you
so announce to the customers; also remove the pins
and brush
made
ofif
the chalkmarks, which should not be
too heavy in case
forgotten to brush them
is
it
off.
The Height.
22.
now
should
— The
be measured
such a purpose.
The
;
height
of
the
customer
have a place convenient for
actual measuring can in
most
cases be dispensed with by asking the customer about his height;
most everyone knows
The height should
Breast, Height and Attitude fail in
coming within
his
own
height.
no case be omitted.
in
is
When
the
obtained, no cutter can
a quarter of an inch of the actual
measures of any person (excepting actual deformities).
The Attitude
23.
or standing and form of the cus-
tomer should now be noted, such as stooping, sloping, square shoulders or erect.
For convenience they can
be divided into two degrees, of one-quarter and oneIt can be done while taking the measures by calling out "S. T. one-half" for stooping, or "S. L.
half inch.
one-quarter" for sloping, and so on 18.
Supplementary Measures can be taken when
the person
is
extreme
in
some
particulars; such as
A
heavy muscles around the shoulder or arm.
mark
it
on the paper himself.
shoulders are even. one-half inch."
Do
Call out the
same with
the
;
or the cutter can
Also note whether the
low
side as "right
trousers.
circular
See under
the section of Trousers.
then taken around the arm
when
measure
is
high, or
low shoulders, measure from front of arm
mark over the shoulder line
to the back of
;
extra
arm mark on a
style 19.
Other Measures, as
in frock coats,
vertically in front of the
—Next plate,
find out the style of coat desired
not previously selected, noting
if
any particulars wanted
where the sleeve seam would run.
drawn
Style.
24.
on the fashion
from a
arm and down
;
otherwise this
in
is left
the cut deviating from the to the cutter.
line
to the
25.
Note
to Cutters.
—The
foregoing minute
may seem
de-
waist; measure from side to the front of waist and
scription of taking measures
from side to the back of the waist; likewise further
an experienced cutter.
down, back over the
greatest trouble in cutting arises from careless or in-
20.
seat.
The Vest Measures.
same measures
the opening, or to the top button,
Sometimes
a
measure
nevertheless a fact that the
adequate measures, so that
—The
are
used for the vest as for the coat, with the addition of
in front.
It is
and the
is
opposite the hip from nape of neck.
full
length
superfluous to
in
applying them to the
draft the cutter is afraid of using them, rendering
thereby of no value. as
it
is
However, by using
this
them
system
explained, the miss of a measure would not
taken to the side
seriously affect the production of a well-fitting gar-
For vest measures
ment.
COATS
12
How The few necessary
articles
a piece of cloth
to draft on, besides the paper.
The Paper should be
26.
unrolled from right to
not shift under
tiie
The
it
it
figure
first
at
is
two
inches,
and
mean
that
four inches, which would
at
from the corner
two inches marked
to the
From
12
would
the corner to 18
a drafting
not always possible to get the right kind of
has a tendency
produce a heavy hand on the draftsman
of 36 breast.
The
"3rds."
figure
first
is
the corner to, say 20,
and
at four inches,
the last at eight inches, which would
mean
would be one-third
that from
of 40 breast.
therefore
,
better to use the regular tailor's paper of
is
last
would be one-sixth
paper; for that reason and also that to
two
is
The is
The
"6ths."
and the
lead can be used. It
first fig-
the one inch, and the last one at the
be one-sixth of 24 breast.
White paper and
chalk.
"12ths." Counting from the corner, the
12, is at
left
presents an even and firm surface and does
it
The ure
inches.
over a piece of cloth, a yard and a half of moleskin the best;
1
to Draft
needed for drafting are a
some chalk and
tape line, a square,
§
any
"2 Thirds"
The
at sixteen inches,
color desired, and chalk.
commences
at eight inches
and ends
but can be extended to the end of the
square.
The Chalk.
27.
may seem
—The
shaping and use of the chalk
a small matter to some;
important.
shave
First
down
it
is
nevertheless
the heavy
ends
till
almost a sharp edge; this prevents a lump forming at
when sharpening and
each end ing
it
using,
Then sharpen one
to follow close to the ruler.
Never sharpen but one
of the thin edges.
piece of sandpaper stretched on a
box makes 28.
a fine finish
Palming
and also allow-
side.
A
knocked-down cigar
edge on the chalk.
of the chalk
is
a practice
be studiously avoided; by palming
which should oil
in the
chalk, together with the moisture of the hand, causes
the
oil to
appear and prevents the chalk from marking
The chalk should be
properly.
thumb and
between the
held
the first and second fingers, leaving the
other fingers to assist in placing the square,
unable
to
do so lay
it
down
or put
it
etc.
When
the apron
in
pocket. 29. is
inches to the end of the square are divided
the square
is
The Square.
—The understanding of the square The square
is
nothing but a
ready-reckoner, assisting a person in finding a given division or
square
is
number
at the instant.
Each arm
divided into six parts, or subdivisions,
commencing and counting from first
all
the corner.
should be understood that in reading the square,
It
where
a
number
being room for
is
omitted,
all of
last
one
is
24,
but
falls
drafted),
on the 12 of the next
"24ths," and
it
— Commencing
ends at the
first
at the
inch.
to
is
because of there not
show, although the be-
In like
"3rds."
would be between 18 and 19 on
manner
a half size
is
located as
37^
breast. 30.
The Short Arm.
— Commencing at the corner
the "32nds," which end at
The "16ths" begin
The
"8ths."
The
at
^j
inch and end at
figure
first
is
inch.
^)(\
is
I3/2
at Ij^ inches
inch.
and the
last at 3 inches.
The "4ths"
start at the 3 inches
The "Halves" extend
On
and end
the inner edge of
number tlie
at the
6
the numbers.
the length of the
6 inches point, and each
full
all
is
arm from
the
here marked.
square on both arms the
inches are indicated.
The whole
short
arm
of the square
is
divided into
one-eighths inches; no 6ths are found on this side.
higher division, which should be a 48 breast.
The Long Arm.
it
them
tween numbers are marked always, for example, one-
31. is
of
are found on this side.
figure in each division is 12, indicating a
24-inch breast (as only one-half of the coat
and the
of the
The whole long arm
divided into sixths of inches; no eighths
inches length, and contain
really very simple.
The
full
third of i7 breast
the
it
The
into one-sixth part of an inch.
corner
The numbers on
the
of these divisions are equal all
patterns are cut from the center of the back to the
center of is
all
to one-half the full breast size dealt with, because
measured. ble,
tlie front,
which
is
only one-half of the
In cutting, however,
which gives us the two
sides.
we
man
cut the cloth dou-
§
COATS
1
when
Therefore,
the l)reast size
and
all
used;
is
divisions of that breast size will
Therefore the numbers on these divisions
also be 18.
cover the range of sizes from 24 to 48 breast.
To all
illustrate further, one-half of a
40 breast
20 on
is
In selecting the style of a sack coat for the
35.
44 breast
is
and so on
22,
all
the different sizes.
The reverse so
As
the system be-
him and the hand gets more
will insure (piicker results
it
are mentioned they are always obtained
by com-
sack.
The system can any other
side of the square contains plain inches,
when inches
to
been reversed,
far the easiest of
one-
way through
the
by
is
coats for a beginner to start with.
comes more familiar
first
of the system, the usual
rule of presenting a frock coat first has
mencing with the half of a
working
illustration of the
used to drafting,
The
di\-ision.
as a Basis
for the reason that a sack coat
and whatever divisions are to be
of the divisions,
used will be 20 of that particular
The Sack Coat
for exam|)le, 36,
is,
only one-half of that (|uantity, ov 18 inches, the breast size
13
explained as well for a sack as
])e
coat.
With the object
of affording the student early en-
couragement, while
same time rendering him
at the
familiar with the plan for producing the various lines
on the reverse side by turning over the square. Before attempting to do any actual drafting be-
and points embodied the
in
in the system, the divisions
used
draft are supplied from the breast measure,
first
come familar with the square and go through such
or proportional, taken in the ordinary way, and fully exercises as finding different sizes on all divisions.
In using the divisions
32.
in
described in the previous remarks on measurements.
the text to follow they
always be referred to as l/12ths, l/6ths, l/3ds,
will
and yi
2/3ds, J-^ths, 34tlis
When
breast.
tity instead of a division is
a total quan-
used they will be spelled
As
the system
thus worked
is
extremely simple
(there being no confusing shifting if the jiosition of the back, etc.) the student, by a careful study of the instructions for drafting, will soon be qualified to draft
accurately and expeditiously the diagrams illustrated. as
out,
one-fourth, one-half,
the division of the square
way
In this
etc.
know
student will be able to
the
the difference between
and any part of a quantity
The Use
keep
of the Square.
hand, holding
in the left
it
—When drafting always it
by the long arm.
will be
worked by propor-
and actual measures, as described
in the articles
on measures, while for uniformity and consequent (features
simplicity
as a whole. 33.
The subsequent diagrams tions
sidered in
all
which have been carefuly con-
stages of this work) the
same
quantities will be used as introduced in the
and
lines
first draft.
In addition to acquiring a knowledge of the location
The
right
hand should never
let
go
and
of the chalk,
only assist in placing the square.
of the various curves or outlines of the pattern, as at-
Always keep within the square; do not of the
when
square come against the body. a point
located
is
all
that
of the points, the student should observe the formation
is
let the
ends
In most cases
recjuired
is to
either
tention to such details contributes greatly to obviate
mistakes
in the
The
36.
betical order, slide or roll the
square
making up
Letters in this
of the
work
garment. are arranged in alpha-
and by following the rotation adopted
in that direction.
no confusion, or overlooking any points, can be pos
Always as to
mark
try to
at the
corner of the square, so
have the chalk move with the square.
no
Stand up close to the cutting table, and have
it
high
mind
arm
Up is
Measures.
that
all
— One
thing to always keep in
and
all
the long
horizontal or lateral meas-
ures are found on the short
arm; so
that
when
the
lines
calls for
an eighth or a twelfth
remember on which end
(or nearly so) throughout the system.
it
is
easy to
of the square to look for
it.
laid out for study,
have been introduced, but each
line
and many
makes some
point easier of comprehension. It is
the easiest thing in the world to leave out and
make incomplete, but needed
measure
Also
used twice on any garment;
furthermore, that each letter or figure occupies the
The system has been
up measures are obtained on
of the square,
thereby acquiring accuracy and efficiency.
letters or figures are
same position
enough to avoid bending over too much. 34.
sible,
is
to give just the points
not so small a task.
find that each line
Here
and
lines
the student will
and point carries an idea that
quires that nuich less mental effort on his part.
re-
COATS
14
§
Proportion Sack Diagram To
lender the student familiar with the working of
the system,
otherwise
all
points in this, the
specified,
found
first
draft are, unless
by division
of
the
breast
measure.
—
A rule which should always be observed by and students is to read through a description before commencing drafting it, the first time especially. Note
cutters
37.
The measures
Inside sleeves
17^
Breast
36
are taken over the Vest always.
inches.
Natural waist 16^4 inches.
1
1
ยง
1
COATS
DIAGRAM
15
1
COATS
16
DIAGRAM
2
— PROPORTION
§
SACK
1
—
§
36
COATS
1
Draw
from F
a line
V — this
to
17
gives the height of the
Remarks on the System
front shoulder.
37
Draw
F
a line from
K
to
locating Y, the height of
sideseam at Y.
39
X Y
40
Draw
38
S-U
is 3/<
inch on the
is J<2
inch from the
line,
M-O
Y
a guide line from
or style width of back.
P and P
N
to
with
A to S from S to X hollow between S and from X through ys Y to bottom of armhole.
W
inch
Y
43
From P
and B constitute the normal
or attitude deviating from
P
to
The
heigth and width
The
41.
combined as explained
is
in a straight line.
^
44 In shaping at Y a scam beyond Y.
F
V
to
over measure should not go
first
line
A-V
When
for a normal figure.
and point F half way belines drawn from S to U and
It
A
normal)
(if
;
will be correct height of shoulders always.
S
should be noted that point
is
not obtained by
and a fraction Some persons will make a mistake and think because 1/6 of 36 is 3 inches, and and yi inch is 3 inches; and that 1/12 and 1>2 inches also is 3 inches; that it is the same; (We have had that handed to us many times). 1/6 or
45 This completes the Back and Diagram
in
estab-
established as directed,
is
inch should be added for a
is
V.
to
strap or
above or below the
S
curve slightly to P.
A
from
lished
;
tween 4 or
N
to
bal-
would
it
the depth of scye measure and the normal line
41 Shape the back from
From
A
lines
used as a check or proof.
is
Any measures
th->
square.
42
and
indicate disproportion in the parts they differ.
line always.
to
The
40.
ance,
j/s
^
1.
Proportion Sack
Certainly
Diagram 2
the
is
it
same on a 36 breast size; but is no more sameness.
it
ends right then and there
X and measure to S. Y and measure to point
46 Place corner of square on
47 Place corner of square on
^
1
48
Draw
S
inch less than
X, the width of shoulder.
to
from Point
a guide line
to T.
1
49 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 50 Square
K
down from
through 4 to
51 Place corner of square
16 on "halves"
from
on
4,
—center
in.
J,2
measure
Draw
54
Y
a line from 13 through 11 to
Y
from
to
P and 56 Going out 57
Z
to 7
58
The
59
Draw
1
is
— 1^4
63
Draw
^ is
and
to 7
the square
I
66
Go
to J
is
down
1 in.
mark
J4 breast on
a line from 19 to
is
in a
is 2j4-
inches
I
—or
line
K.
—notch yi
^
67 Shape from
inch at 7 and
V
from
inch.
draw a
line to 6.
the gorge or neck hole and front.
This completes Diagram
2.
frame; line
to 19.
in.
A
The
A
or 4
the per-
19.
it
indi-
is
;
line
attitude
and point
all
is
is
regulated by
never changed, the measures are
from the breast
breast if
correct
is
established as explained.
height corresponds to width).
(if
The lower attitude
V
and front shoulder point from point
breast line
The
5.
is 1
if
normal strap
Likewise the over shoulder measure
really applied
as at 18.
and square
style
1J4 inches, 5 to 6
is
or the measures are taken wrong.
;
The high shoulder or low shoulder 4; or
from
"4ths" (Ayi inches). and
allowances added
sizes.
all
form
provided point
and shape bottom.
to 18
amount
as sure a check as can be.
is
42.
taken up in making the front edge.
from 14
all
the strap length conies above point
cates an erect It
from Y, touching and halfway between
to E,
this
inch.
14.
inch over 11 to a 34 "ich of 14.
from Z
when
or in other words, this
the depth of scye
the length
a line
64 19 to 20 65
V; with
;
13.
inch
62 18 to 19
normal
length always for
N.
1/12 breast on "12ths" and
Move
is
When in.
60 Place corner of square on V, long arm on K, find
61
be at point
son
1/12;
placed at K, the correct strap length
is
%
Square down
55 Shape the sideseam of the forepart
the back over the breast-line
R)
will
5 to 7.
to 14 is the length
to
If a 6th
to 5, ^^ waist
of waist.
using the division of
A
were used or an 8th it is evident it cannot be the same. On a 48 breast the strap would vary
17.
52 For spring over the hip go out from 12 to 11 53
over Z.
By (from
A
is
and
A-V
line up.
form the balance or V will be below the above the normal line. line
stooping point
will rise
part of the coat
is
changes are made on the
never disturbed by line
A-V.
Consequently the sleeves will hang correct every time, because a sleeve, or rather the arm) hangs straight down always; no matter what attitude.
Therefore
way
if
the breast line
is
always horizontal (the
the measures were taken) the sleeve
rectly every time.
must
fit
cor-
COATS
18
For
43.
fore be only
a.
erect or stooping attitude there can there-
j4 or yi inch
more or
less
spring changes
from the normal; for erect more, and for stooping
ยง
way between
half
Line 4 forms the normal front height.
less.
or a near enough quantity added or reduced
;
no measure
The
is
if
taken.
mine the run of bottom
;
by a sweep from
E
to 7
E
is
it
the actual depth of scye measure
The
stooping plus
i"ch,
All three of
them are
fixed points,
The measure
inch.
fashion cannot change them
therefore, by adding fi
;
as drawn, but a
below 17 gives a continuous even run to the bottom; the
same distance from
The
the floor every time.
All measures and system points are applied or
stationary
jioint
from
points.
It
one solid (stationary) and correct point, will also
it
be correct; but
All coats are finished to the front center, then addi-
A
F
and from
from the highest
(half
V
way between 4
This will give the correct
normal.
shoulders.
should also be remembered that
Y2 inch in the back, the point
further study in
V
l)y
if
a person stoops
will only
much, and advance half as much. verified
never from movable points.
tions for D, B, or style are put on.
A-V
in-
sofar as misplacing any of the points.
other points obtained from
line 4,
to point
height of the
on the system
efl'ect
U, or
line
inch forward.
height of shoulders are taken to
on the
will therefore fall
Y
a Ya
fi.xed
and B)
Therefore, style can have no
If there is
.S
Y
for
add a
A-V
inch to the strap length, thereby rising line
extreme front width.
inch
i"ch below
(a Ya
this instance the sloping shoulders
the
is
^
with allowance of l^ inch for make-up.
front shoulder will be
normal) in
the extreme back width and line 7
;
ap-
is
Scye plus Y^ inch,
be found as follows:
will
measure
total
from
;
the center of body on line K.
Line
When
45.
plied
sloping shoulders plus Ya
stationary breast line enables us to easily deter-
the normal depth of
is
scye.
Measures can be applied when measuring and when drafting
two and
the
1
lower half as
This can easily be
by placing the normal shoulders together, and
found
to
be
inches back of point
V
raising the collar '6 inch in back
will be
it
V.
a '4 '"ch at point
the disproportions of the coat should be gone over carefully, until the principle
When is
it
works on becomes
clear.
Chesty Coat
the system points are obtained correctly there
Diagram 3
not such a great variation in the different points as
.some cutters seem to imagine. 44. rise
The shoulder
more than
Yz inch
46.
point can in no possible instance
above
line
A-V, and
that
is
ex-
Draw
treme; and half the distance back from line U-V. It
cannot possibly go more than
and the same amount forward. no instance go more than a ]/>
inch above the
^
^
Cut
inch below the line,
The back height can
Open
line.
has been established.
For example:
son 5 feet 9 inches, 42 breast, stooping
^
A
inch,
low
from 4
to
B by
the breast measure (42)
;
B up
from
apply the depth of scye of the height (39 breast)
;
A
is
from
1%
a line from the breastline to the notch.
from
the notch to the breastline,
V
;
at the breastline ;
down
to the
leave pattern together at V.
this will
^
to
inch and fold pleat
1
open Y^ 'nch
at the notch.
Re-shape by the new position as shown.
The
per-
shoulders or sloping Y^ inch, establish the depth of scye
in
below the pocket
This means for attitude after the normal zvidth and /j^if/ZiMine
a line
pocket and up to
in
inch below the line, nor
Draw
through the corner of the pocket.
the
3^ -inch opening should be
two bars marked 6 inches
Add
a
for flare.
Add
Y
worked
in
inch over the blade for the back and
Take out
between
apart.
Y- i"ch in the
under arm
Y^ '"ch flare to the back part.
%
cut.
inch
ยง
COATS
1
DIAGRAM
3
- CHESTY COAT
19
20
COATS
DIAGRAM
4
SINGLE BREASTED SACK
ยง 1
COATS
§ 1
21
Single Breasted Sack Diagram 4 The measures
38.
are taken over the Vest always.
1^
Blade (with
Inside sleeve
17>4 inches.
Breast
36
inches.
32
inches.
Depth of scye
37
inches.
Natural waist
16%
inches.
12
inches.
Full length
30
inches.
Over shoulder 17
inches.
Height
6
inches.
Waist
Hip or
seat
Strap
Form and
inches for
seams added) 12)4 inches.
Attitude, normal.
5
9
feet
inches.
Sizes 33 to 42 breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>^ inches (9^). 3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 4 A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 i"ch for curve of 1
2
A
Back
D
5
C
6
Added
7
A
to
8
F
is
to
(16;'4).
is
E
1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) Seatline.
11
12 13
14 15
16 17
draw line F to G and down to E. drawn inside of B measure' to H.
line just
half the full breast
measure (18).
2)4 inches center of breast. is blade (with lj4 inches for seams) {IZyz).
to I
is
to
T
to
is
iy2 inches;
23 Square up from
24
V
25
Draw
is
U
to
T
U
to
57
Draw
V, locating the shoulder
point.
from K and A. from S to U, and F to V.
lines
X Y
is 3/2
is J/j
inch on the
S-U
inch from the
line
O-N
—or
line,
Style.
Draw
62
V
draw inch
line
A
Z (18
from
B
and take out a
and 8 to
16.
Y
to 16,
going out
Style.
%
inch or more.
is
taken up in making the front edge.
14 to 7; shape bottom; lower
^
at 17.
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
is
^
is
breast
;
draw
now completed is
line
from 19
to
and
I
to the front center;
5.
any
for overlap, either single or double
is 2% inches; notch >/. inch from 19. 66 I to J is 1^ inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 67 Go in yi inch at 7 draw line from 6 and shape front. 68 V to 21 is lyi inches; draw line to end of roll. 69 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and J/2 inch from K. 70 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.)
To
to
in front,
and the width and
place the pocket
:
style
of
lay corner of square on
lapel.
K,
find
the inside sleeve length (17->^) on the 2 "3rds," add a 14 inch for the slant; about 12;'4 inches
73
down from K. The width is 3J4
inches on each side of the running even with the bottom.
line
K,
W.
Double Breasted Sack
at
inches).
38
When attitude is normal will Z is \% inches from line K.
V
meet
line
F-V.
39
Draw
a line
V
41
Draw
}i inch less than S to X. a guide line from point 1 to T.
from 1
is
through Z
39. All points are obtained as usual in
to point
1.
Sack Coats.
center or front line 19-1 and 5 to front edge 26-J and 6 is 3J4 inches. Peak lapel for style. The lower button is 1 inch below the pocket.
From
are placed as far back from the center end of the holes (or eyes) are in front of it.
The buttons line as the
40
to point
inch line
to R, placing the
K, and measure up, locating V (13 in.). 35 When attitude is normal will meet line A-V. 36 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 in. from B to W, placing the amount at K, and measure up, locating
amount
line 15
to 18 is
for fulness held in over the blade.
1
1
61
72
The
34 Apply strap measure, and
—or
G
to
N.
58 (Reduce }4 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 59 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K.
and 1/12 up from M.
33 Shape the Back as shown;
P
to
;
32
is
Y
inch over 11 to 14
away
Draw guide line from Y to P. From B up apply depth of scye measure and }^ in. (9^) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. inch
the length from
is
71 All coats are drafted a straight front always; then the style is put on such as 2, 3 or 4 buttons ; the cut-
31
1/2
inches.)
;
located on lines
^
37
to 14
^
l;/^
65 19 to 20
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
30
Y
is
breasted.
1/12 breast.
is
inches; square up, locating 13.
a line from 13 through 11 to 14.
addition
^
29
Draw
O
;
K
1%
is
52 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
is
—
28
51 11 to 12
64 The coat
and down to N. 19 P is ^S inch from line O-M draw line to N. 20 A to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths," and 21 Q to R is iy> inches; square up to S, inch. 22
used only to obtain the front cen-
5, is
and to check the blade measure. 48 5 to 8 is Zyz inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 49 These Zyi inches are for seams and make-up. 50 Apply hip measure and ;;4 inch for 3 seams; width of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11.
63 18 to 19
is
IS Square up to
—
ter of the waist
60 The
— B K Square up from K— front of armhole. L half way between B and K. L to M lyi inches — width of Back. H
K
56 Shape side seam of forepart from
B and
5^ inch,
K, 4 and
2,
55
the Full Length of Back.
half between
C to G is From the B to H is
—
54 Measure waist and 1)^ inches
A, for front shoulder height. 9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F.
10
;
53
to the natural waist gives correct length. is
42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding '/i in. over Z. 43 B> to 2 is >4 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 45 Square down from through 4 to 17. 46 4 to 5 is >4 waist on "halves" center of waist. 47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to
A V of the
should be taken out in the gorge. The length collar must be cut or measure.
roll is to suit
for each coat ahvays.
A
COATS
22
Long
Roll
§
1
Sack
Diagram 5 The measures
47.
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
17^
inches.
Blade (with 1>4 inches for
Breast
36
inches.
seams added) 12^ inches.
Waist
32
inches.
Depth of scye 9
:i7
inches.
Natural waist
16^
inches.
12
inches.
Full length
30
inches.
17
inches.
Height
Hip or
seat
inches.
36 Z is lj4 inches from line K. 37 Draw a line from V through Z 38
V
to point
^
is
1
to point
1.
S
X.
inch less than
to
39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3^ in. over Z. 41 B to 2 is i/^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 44 4 to 5 is 3^ waist on "halves" center of waist. 45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to ;
Strap
Over shoulder
Form and
attitude, normal.
5 feet 6
Sizes, 33 to
42
inches.
breast.
To Draft.
2, 1
Square
bolli
A
is
to
B
3 This
is
2
4
A
C
to
ways from A.
1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (9>2).
is
all
allowances.
one-fourth height, and 14 '"ch for curve
of Back. (16^). 5
C
D
to
is
A
8
F
E
to
is
B and
E
11
12 13
H
14
B
to to
I
is
K
is
15 Square
17
L L
19
P
20
A Q K
16
is
— K— front
to E.
up from
to
K.
M
to is \y^ inches— width of Back. 18 Square up to O, and down to N.
21
22
is 3/2
Q
to to to
is
R is T is
from Line
O-M
draw line to N. 1/12 breast on "12ths" and \y2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch.
inch
1"^ inches;
U
to
to U is 1/12 breast. V, locating the shoulder point.
T
24 V is located on lines from K and A. 25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X JX inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 28 X is "/z inch on the S-U line or Style. 29 Y is >< inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch to A, in normal attitude will meet line A.
—
2i2
The
y'2
inch
is
for fullness held in over the blade.
from B to W. 34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V (13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to and K to Z when normal, meet line F-V. 33 Shape the Back as shown
W
;
;
the same.
is
inches are for seams and make-up.
1^
11 to 12 is
inches; square up, locating 13.
Draw
from 13 through
a line
Y
to 14
Y
from
the length
is
P
56 Z to 7 57
The
58
Draw
59
V
1
is
inch
from
is
is
—or
to 16
Z
to
in
E
and 8
J4 breast;
to 16.
Y
to 16,
going out
style.
when no underarm and
1
inch,
from
cut.)
line
K.
making the front edge.
^
shape bottom; lower
1/12 breast
is
19 to 20
Y
taken up
line 14 to 7;
to 18
60 18 to 19 61
in.
length from
G
to
to N.
54 Shape side seam of forepart from
55 (Reduce Y^
\f\ inches.)
is
11 to 14.
at 17.
square forward from 18 by K.
;
draw
is
2)4 inches
1
inch, square
;
line
from 19
and
to I
notch )4 inch from
5.
19.
;
—
2Z Square up from
234 inches, 9 to 10
2_^^
H.
of armhole.
B and
is
y% inch over 11 to 14
2y^ inches center of breast. blade (with 1,14 inches for seams). {I2y2).
half-way between
8
b2 Measure waist and Ij^ inches 53
and F.
C to G is I/2 inch, draw line F to G and down From the line just drawn inside of B measure B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
5 to
used only to obtain the front cenand to check the blade measure.
48 Apply hip measure and ^4 inch for 3 seams; width of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11.
51
A, for front shoulder height.
9 Square out from A, B, C, D, 10
5, is
50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
the Full Length of Back.
half between
is
46
47 These
49
1/3 breast, on "3rds." seatline (6).
6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 7
K, 4 and
ter of the waist
the proportional and includes
—
—
draw
62 5
to
6
is
down.
63 Place buttonholes as desired and shape front.
64
V
65
From
to 21
is
1)4 inches;
the crease
draw a
and gorge
line to
end of
Roll.
lines to 19 is the
opening
2 inches.
66 67
Draw From
a rounding line Yz inch over the breast.
19 draw a straight line to end of Roll.
68 Back of 19 add 2 seams and draw 69 19 to 20
is
the width to the notch.
70 20 to 26
is
1
71
Make
^
parallel line.
inches or width desired.
the inside of the lapel either curved or straight.
72 Shape as represented and cut out the V. 7Z
The end of
the cut runs off the break line.
line
74 This will produce a prominent curved 75
The
forepart
is
roll.
cut along the break line.
76 Finished with patch pockets and no underarm 77 The pocket
is
cut.
2/3 sleeve length and Y^ inch from K.
ยง
COATS
1
DIAGRAM
5
- LONG ROLL SACK
23
24
COATS
ยง
1
ยง
COATS
1
Exaggerated Sack Diagram 6 48.
The measures
Inside sleeve
Breast
17^
are taken over the
inches
\'est
always.
Blade (with 1'4 inches for
seams added)
Depth of scye
I23/2 inches.
9
inches.
Natural waist
16^
inches.
Full length
30
inches.
6
inches.
Height
5 feet
25
COATS
26
49. This coat
is
cut in the
same manner
as a sack
coat; the pleats are cut separate and laid on the coat, or
cut lengthwise
No
The
wide as the pleats, must match the material of the
front pleat
point; the pocket
is is
about
1^
a Yz inch to allow the
The back
pleat
is
the
same distance from the armhole
center of the pleat at the bottom
is
at Yz the
back
width. belt
is
cut twice as wide as
made
up, and
is
cut
across on the cloth the full width of the goods. It is
width of blade
to front to give chest
outside breast pocket
The Norfolks and by
all
considered more stylish to cut the belt length-
wise, and first-class houses are doing
it
now.
If a belt is
are
now
is
is
used.
room.
inserted in the left breast,
and lengthwise.
being used to a great extent
classes of people
The
manners.
as the front pleat.
The
added
the opening being under the breast pleat
inches from the shoulder
moved back
pleat to pass.
The
should be the waist width and 12 inches.
cut, but the full
is
1
L'sually finished with patch pocket.
coat.
The
34 inch
The
pleat pieces are cut twice as
in cutting the cloth
it
under-arm
A
they can be cut as explained in the Norfolk Pleated.
and
ยง
of what
is
roomy.
The
and made up
in all
kinds of
general features of "Norfolks" should be
termed a bold character. stitching of the edges
They should be and
cut
pleats should be
extra wide. All the pockets should be strongly tacked, and are best lined with waterproof material. The lining is
often of flannel, or
When
no lining
is
some such absorbent put
material should be a rough
burn tweed.
The buttons
in,
material.
the seams are taped.
make
The
of cheviot or Bannock-
are of buflfalo horn.
§
COATS
1
50.
Norfolk coats are frequently finished with yoked
shoulders
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;that
is,
the shoulders are finished plain, the
same as in ordinary sack coats, while a seam is run across the back and forepart about level with the bottom of the scye, upon which the lower part of the garment is pleated in to any desired style. The yoke is by many considered to impart improved style
;
it
certainly
is
of considerable advantage in allowing
27
amount of material taken up by the breast pleat, or V, must be allowed on to the front edge, starting from the bottom button and gradually increased to the desired
amount body
belt is
pleat.
It is
distributed in a sightly
additional ease over the chest.
This diagram has an inverted pleat in back and front,
fort
The
belt.
extending from waist line up to
at the top.
2 inches wide, or the same width as the perhaps advisable to have the belt sewn to the waist of the coat, from the back to within about 3 inches of the front. By this method the fullness can be
The
the yoke
line.
and
The
style.
manner and without
loss of
com-
The lower button should be above
pockets should be well stayed and of good
the size.
28
COATS
DIAGRAM
9
- NORFOLK PLEATED
ยง
1
COATS
1
§
29
Norfolk Pleated Diagram 9 The measures
51.
are taken over the Vest always.
Blade (with 134 inches for
Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V. In normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and
Inside sleeve
17^4 inches.
Breast
36
inches.
Waist
32
inches.
Depth of scye
37
inches.
Natural waist
16^
inches.
12
inches.
Full
30
inches.
Z is 134 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z
inches.
Height
6
inches.
V
Hip or
seat
Strap
OvershouldtT 17
Form and
seams added) 12^ inches.
length
9
feet
5
inches.
Sizes 33 to 42 breasts.
attitude, normal.
A
A
to
B
4 This
is
3
5
A
to
C
is
6
C
to
D
is
7
Added
8
A
one-fourth height and 34 inches for length. 1/3 breast on '3rds" (6), Seatline.
11
A Q
12
R
Q
to
to
R
to
2
is
4
is
13 2 to
1/12 breast
is
E
14
Draw
15
4 to 6 and
16
Draw Draw
19
A
20
pleat,
1
inch; 10 to 11
folding lines 10 to 11
21 Line 11
is
9.
the same.
— center of
Back.
K
Square up from
32
Draw
28
1 1
—
—
M
;
to
T
T to U is 1/12 breast. U to V, locating the shoulder U and F to V.
V/2 inches;
is
lines
35
36 37
X
S
to
point.
J/2
inch,
and lower
at point
1
inch, 13 to 15
the same.
is
the width of pleat.
the same.
folding line 16 to 17. is
half width of pleat (1 inch).
draw folding
17 to 19 the same,
H
to
B
to 2
line.
cut.
234 inches.
I is
on "halves" 2 to K is 334 inches. normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal is
34 breast
;
the
is
K
through 4
to 17.
—
check the blade measure. is 234 inches; 9 to 10 is the same. These 234 inches are for seams and make-up.
5 to 8
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
X is yi inch on S-U line —or Style. Y is yi inch from the O-M line, and 1/12 Draw guide line from Y to P.
40 Shape the back as shown
;
draw a
line
from B
a line
to 7
^
V
line
to 18
to
W.
—
inch over 11 to 14
the length
is
is
18 to 19
;
13.
from 13 through 11 to 14. Measure waist and I34 inches, P to G and 8 to 16. V to 14 is the length from Y to N. Shape sideseam of forepart from Y through 16, going
Draw
From B up
inches.)
lj:\
square up, locating
11 to 12 is 1;M inches;
Draw
out
up from M.
is
Measure hip and ^ inch for 3 seams, width of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11.
Z
the same.
apply actual depth of scye measure and in normal attitude will meet line A. J/2 inch to A 39 The 3/ inch is for fullness held in over the blade.
38
1
is is
16 to 18
33 This gives the proportional height of shoulders.
34 Rise at
is
—
31
27
over Z.
in.
3/2
4 to 5 is half waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. 69 The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front center of the waist and to
30
26
1.
sizes.
29
25
to point
inch less than S to X.
11, 12,
23 Fold 10 on A,
24
F-V.
I34 inches.
Square down from
A, 2, 4, 6 and 8. on 10 and 4 on 2 and 6 on 8. B to K is blade (with I34 inches for seams) (12>4). Square up from K front of armhole. L is half way between B and K. is lj4 inches width of Back. L to Square up to O and down to N. P is J4 inch from line O-M draw line to N.
22 Trace lines
is
7.
the crease edge of the material.
is
Draw
This
to 9 each J^ pleat (1 inch).
is
line
folding line 14 to 15.
15 to 17
5.
folding line of pleat from 8 to
meet
folding line to 13.
14 to 16
2 inches.
folding line of pleat from 6 to
and 7
back to 10
Draw
width of
inch.
to 3.
3 to 5 the same.
pleat (1 inch)
5 to 7,
^
to S,
folding line of pleat from 4 to
17 6 to 8
18
up
down
iy2 inches; square J/^
F.
—on "12ths", and
Ij^ inches; square
is
and
^
will
Trace lines 12, 14, 16 and 18. Fold 14 on 12 and 16 on 18. Reduce 34 inch inside of 16 when no underarm B to H is 34 full breast measure (18;.
full length.
is
9 Square out from A, B, C, D, 10
allowances.
all
to the natural waist gives correct length.
E
to
inches (9yij.
3^/4
the proportional and includes
is
1
back to 12
Draw
2 inches from edge of paper.
normal
a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding
12 to 14
1/3 breast on "3rds" and
is
to point
Draw
Inverted pleat, 2 inches wide.
2 Square from
toZ.
When
Draw
V
To Draft. 1
K (18)
is
from Z
to
or Style.
E
and
1
in.
from
line
K.
^
at 17. 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1/12 breast square forward from 18 by K. ;
34 breast
draw
;
line
from 19
to
I
and
5.
notch 34 inch from 19. I to J is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. Go in 34 inch at 7 draw line from 6 and shape front. V to 21 is 134 inches draw line to end of roll. 19 to 20
is
234 inches
;
;
;
COATS
30
§
1
Tuxedo Peak Diagram 10 The measures
52.
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
17^
inches.
Blade (with \}i inches for
Breast
36
inches.
Waist Hip or
32
inches.
seams added) 12^ Depth of scye 9
inches,
37
inches.
Natural waist
16^
inches,
30
inches,
seat
Strap
12
inches.
Full length
Over shoulder
17
inches.
Height
Form and
attitude, normal.
feet
5
6
33 to 42
Sizes,
inches. breast.
To Draft.
5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "iRDs" {6) Seatline. 6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 7 A to E is the Full Length of Back.
drawn
B measure
half the full breast masure. (18j.
2^4 inches
inside of
—center
H
to
I
is
14
B
to
K
is
16
L L
is
half-way between
to
M
to
H.
P
20
A to Q Q to R K to T
21
22
is
is
1^4 inches
jX inch
of breast.
B and K.
— width
down
from Line
to
O-M
of Back.
draw
line to
1>4 inches; square up to S,
is
1>4 inches;
U
%
from B to W. and K to V (13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to and K to Z when normal, meet line F-V. Z is lyi inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X.
36 37
38
;
to 14
drawn
;
1
inch
line
A
to
R
;
and 10
to 11. (19>4).
inches; square up, locating 13.
the length
is
Y
from
P
—
ys inch over 11 to 14
55
(Reduce
56 Z to 7
59
V
is
inch
is
Y
to
to 16.
Y
to 16, going out
or style.
to 16
Z
and 8
E
when no underarm and
1
inch,
from
cut.)
line
K.
taken up in making the front edge.
line 14 to 7;
18
to
from
J4 in.
length from
G
to
N.
to
54 Shape side seam of forepart from
shape bottom; lower f^ at 17. in. square from 18
1/12 breast; and ^4
is
by K.
Draw
J4 breast; less /2 inch.
is
line
tural
from 19
to I
roll
waist
line,
on the Vest
is
for fullness held in over the blade.
33 Shape the Back as shown 34 Apply strap measure, and
W
Y
inches.
1/12 breast. to V, locating the shoulder point. to
1^
is
D
to
and
can be
5.
1^/2
inches below the na-
corresponding to the
fashion
waist length on Dress Coat; or the second button
30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch (9>1) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. is
to 12
N.
24 V is located on lines from K and A. 25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X "^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 28 X is >4 inch on the S-U line—or Style. 29 Y is J/2 inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M.
32 The y2 inch
49 11
—on "12ths/' and
is
U
%
62 The end of the
1/12 breast
T
5, is
Back from 12
61
N. ;
to
used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 46 5 to 8 is 2y2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 47 These 2J/ inches are for seams and make-up. inch for 3 seams width of 48 Apply hip measure and
K, 4 and
60 18 to 19
is
23 Square up from
35
—
The 1 58 Draw
K—
18 Square up to O, and 19
and comes even with K in normal sizes. K through 4 to 17. 44 4 to 5 is J^ waist on "halves"—center of waist. 45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B blade,
57
blade (with 1J4 inches for seams). (12>4). front of armhole. 15 Square up from
17
K
43 Square down from
53
F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 10 C to G is >4 inch, draw line F to G and down to E. line just
to T.
1
52 Measure waist and 1>2 inches
8
From the B to H is
from point
50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 51 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14.
of Back.
13
a guide line
2,
Square both ways from A. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3yS inches (9J/2). 3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 4 A to C is one-fourth height, and >4 '"ch for curve
12
Draw
40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >4 in. over Z is 3>4 inches. 41 Z to 2 is >2 breast on "halves" 2 to 42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual ;
inches,
1
11
39
;
2y
inches below the natural waist
line.
63
V
to 21
is
draw
134 inches;
a line to end of roll,
rounding 3/ inch over the breast. 64 Square forward from crease line the amount of opening (2 inches) as to 19; draw a straight line to
end of
roll.
65 This forms the finished crease
66
From
line
line.
19 on gorge line to 20
is
the distance
from
the break-line to the notch.
67
Draw
a line from 19 through 20 to 26.
—
is 2 inches; rise from 26 IJ^ inches. 19 add 2 seams and draw parallel line.
68 20 to 26 69
To
70 Shape the lapel as shown on diagram or curved line from 19 down. 71
The
forepart
curved
is
line
72 The pocket
;
either straight
cut in the crease line and ends in a
under the
lapel.
y
inch from K, 2/3 sleeve length and and finished with a welt 1|4 inches wide.
73
Go
in IJ^
front.
is
inches at 7;
draw
line
from
5
and shape
ยง
1
Coats
31
32
COATS
ยง
1
COATS
1
§
33
Tuxedo Shawl Diagram 11 The measures
53.
are taken over
Inside sleeve
17^
inches.
Breast'
36
inches.
Waist
32
Hip or
seat
Vest always.
tlie
seams added)
Depth of scye
inches.
inches.
Natural waist
12
inches.
Full
Over shoulder 17
1
length
Height
inches.
9
36 Z
16%
inches. inches.
6
inches.
Draw
38
V
39
Draw
attitude, normal.
Sizes, 33 to
42 breast.
Square both ways from A.
2
A
to
B
3 This
is
4
A
one-fourth height, and
inch for curve
j/4
C
to
D
6 Added 7
A
to
8
F
is
E
1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seatline. to the natural waist gives correct length. is
half
B and
between
A, for front shoulder height. E and F.
9 Square out from A, B, C, D,
G
10
C
is
y2 inch,
11
From the B to H is
line just
12 13
H
to I
14
B
to
to
is
K
2%
Square up from
L L
is
half-way between
to
M
18 Square
19
P
^
is
breast.
B and
is
1% inches— width
up
to
O-M
of Back.
line to
lines
from S
to
28 29 30
at
X /
inch,
U, and
F
point.
and lower
at point
The
J/2
Draw
inch
is
Y
to 14
1
inch
A
to
R
inches; square up, locating 13.
P
inches
Ij/S
Y
from
inch
1
Draw
V
and
1 1
Y
from
in.
1^1
to
length from is
1%
is
inches.)
G
to
— to
to 16.
to 16,
going out
or Style.
to 16
Z
and 8
to
when no underarm
E and
1
from
inch,
cut.)
line
K.
taken up in making the front edge.
line 14 to 7;
to 18
shape bottom; lower
^
at 17.
to
I
is
%
61 18 to 19
is
62
I to
%
63
Go
64
\' to
65
The end
J in
is
is J/2
to
K
(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V.
68 69
.W.
70
V
71
to
72
breast;
inch, 5 to
at 7;
I,'/'
21
1%
draw
inches;
draw 6
is
line
1%
from 19
and
5.
inches.
from 5 and shape front. draw line to end of roll round-
line
inch over breast.
can be IJ^ inches below the nacorresponding to the fashion waist length on Dress Coat, or the second button on the \'est, 2^4 in. below the natural waist line. of the
roll
waist
line,
67 The pocket
B
inches.
—
the length
(Reduce J4
tural
for fullness held in over the blade.
34 Apply strap measure, and
is
57 The
up from M.
33 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from
over Z.
in.
K is 3j/2
a line from 13 through 11 to 14.
is
the same.
X is yi inch on the S-U line—or Style. Y is i^ inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 Draw guide line from Y to P.
1%
11 to 12 is
ing
1
2 to
is
56 Z to 7
to V.
31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch (9>^) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A.
32
;
1/12 breast, plus >4 inch. 60 Square forward from 18 by K.
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders.
27 Rise
breast on "halves"
52 Measure waist and
59
N.
Draw
23
51
58
draw
;
1.
X.
to
to T.
1
50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
55
K.
25
22
^
ys inch over
O, and down to N.
inch from line
S
N. 54 Shape side seam of forepart from Y
24
21
H.
to
49
53
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on "12ths/' and Q to R is iy2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch. K to T is V/i inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder V is located on lines from K and A.
20
to E.
—center of 1% inches for seams). K— front of armhole.
inches
16
to point
44 4 to 5 is J/2 waist on "halves" center of waist. 45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure.
blade (with
15
17
draw line F to G and down drawn inside of B measure
half the full breast measure.
is
through Z
%
the Full Length of Back.
is
is
W
46 5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 47 These 2}^ inches are for seams and make-up. inch for 3 seams; width 48 Apply hip measure and of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11 (19%).
of Back (16%). 5
V
J^ inch less than
is
—
1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3}^ inches (9>^). the proportional, and includes all allowances. is
from
1
a guide line from point
to 2
to
F-V.
normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 43 Square down from K through 4 to 17.
is
C
to
line
;
inches from line K.
a line
to point
42 This
To Draft. 1
B
B
inch (18)
1
Z when normal, meet
to
40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi 41
Form and
1%
is
37 inches.
30
feet
5
2 j/2 inches.
K
and
Blade (with lj4 inches for
37
Strap
35 Apply over shoulder measure and
is
2/3 sleeve length and
y
inch from
K
and finished with a welt 1% inches wide. The Collar—21 to 28 equal A to R. inch. 28 to 29 is Square from 21 through 29 for stand, 1% inches. 29 to 30 is 1% inches—21 to 26 is the same. Draw line from 26 through 6 and shape as shown.
^
;
:
COATS
34
§
1
Disproportion Sack Diagram 12 The measures
54.
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
17f^ inches.
Stooping
Breast
36
inches.
Blade (with
32
inches.
37
inches.
Depth of scye
Strap
11^
inches.
Over shoulder
17
inches.
Full length
Waist
Hip or
seat
3<2
1^
inch.
inches for
seams added) 12 "X inches.
9^
23 Square up from U to 24 Draw lines from S to
from M.
29
X is yi inch on the S-U line —or Style. Y is >4 inch from the O-M line, and 1/12 up Draw guide line from Y to P and P to N.
30
From B up
in.
27 28
Natural waist 17
inches.
30
inches.
6
Height 5 feet
When
inches.
31
Front waist
Back waist
7/2 inches.
35 is
form frequently met with and
a
y2 inch
is
is
normal
meet
will
line
(10).
A.
for fulness held in over the blade.
if
O
and F, and square lines O, 5, F. 5, S to X. Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K to V (12%) when normal meet line A-V. Advance V from line U-V, as much as below line A. and Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to K to Z (18) when normal will meet line F-V. Z is \j4 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is y& inch less than S to X. Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >4 in. over Z. B to 2 is >1 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>4 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5, apply the front waist measure (8J/2 inches). Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 5,
33 Obtain point S from 5 and shape
34
In breast sizes ranging from 33 to 42 breasts.
This
The
apply actual depth of scye and >^
attitude
32 Lay square on
Syi inches.
shoulder point.
25 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 26 Rise atX yi inch and lower at point 1 the same.
inches.
Supplementary measures
V—locating the U and F to V.
considered
;
;
very hard to
fit.
36
In taking the measures extend the square
from
in front of the
arm and mark back
downward
Measure from this line to center of and to center of back which added together should be half the waist measure This form may be described as Head erect, dip neck or round back, blade normal, waist forward, seat normal ;
;
—
appearing what
common
is
commonly
called sway-back.
who do
38
39 40 41
42 43
not preform muscular
44
work, people of sedentary habits, and persons subjected to prolonged standing on their feet, including a great
45
It is
to those
W
;
at the waist-line.
waist in front
37
of the square,
majority of city people, in addition to other abnormalities.
To Draft.
46 47
;
K, 4 and
2,
Square both ways from A. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3j^ inches (9>S). 3 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 4 A to C is one-fourth height and ^i inch for curve
C
to
D
is
1/3 breast
—on "3rds"
(6) Seatline.
F is half normal A to B, for front shoulder height. 9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4 and 5. 10 C to G is J/ inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 12
H
— K K— half-way between B and K. M 1>4 inches — width of Back.
to
16 17
L L
to
is
to
I is
is
is
down to N. from line 0-M draw line to N. 1/12 breast— on "12ths" and inch. 1>^ inches; square up to S,
is
lyi inches;
18 Square up to O, and 19
P
20
A to Q Q to R K to T
21
22
is
>^ inch is
;
^
T
to
U
is
1/12 breast.
I44 inches, square up, locating 13.
is
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
52
Draw
56
Draw
57
58
Z The
59
Draw
60
V
is
l-^ inches.)
a line
—
H.
2>^ inches center of breast. is blade with lj4 inches for seams (12>^). 14 B to front of armhole. 15 Square up from 13
%
from 13 through 11 to 14. 53 Apply waist measure and Vy in., P to G and 8 to 16. 54 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 55 Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16 going out
8
From the line just drawn inside of B measure B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
only used to obtain the front
5 to 8 is 2y2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. inch for 3 seams; width 49 Apply hip measure and of Back from 12 to D and from 10 to 11 (19>4).
51
6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 7 A to E is the Full Length of Back.
11
is
48
50 11 to 12
of back. 5
5
center of the waist and to check the blade measure.
1
to Style. ys inch over 11 to 14 line 15 and take out a J4 to J^ inch. to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 1
inch
is
62 19 to 20
is
I to
J
taken up in making the front edge.
is
shape bottom, lower
%
at 17.
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
to 18 is
61 18 to 19
63
is
line 14 to 7;
j4 breast;
draw
from 19
line
to
I
and
5.
234 inches, or Style notch y, in. from 19. 1J4 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. ;
draw line from 6 and shape front. draw a line to end of roll. 66 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K. 67 (For double breasted add 2%. inches to the front.)
64 Go 65
V
in
J/^
to 21
inch at
is
\y
7,
inches;
COATS
DIAGRAM
12
- DISPROPORTION SACK
35
COATS
36
DIAGRAM
13
-TALL AND
ยง
SLIM
1
COATS
1
§
Tall
37
and Slim
Diagram 13 The measures
55.
are taken over the Vest always.
From B up in.
1^
Inside sleeve
19>4 inches.
Blade (with
Breast
36
inches.
Waist
31
inches.
38
inches.
seams added) 12^ inches. Depth of scye 9]^ inches. Natural waist 18^ inches.
Hip or
seat
Strap
Form and
33
Full length
llYz inches.
Over shoulder \7}i
inches for
Height 6 feet
inches.
Attitude normal.
Sizes, 33 to
inches.
inches.
38 breasts.
To Draft. 1
Square both ways from
B
3.
3
B
4
A
is
5
This
is
the proportional
C
A
to
C
is
7
C
to
D
is
is
inches (10>4). half
way between
and 4. and includes all allowances. one-fourth height, and J4 inch, for length. 1/3 breast, on "3rds"' (6) Seatline. 3
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (33). is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F and 3. 12 C to G is inch; draw line F to G and down to E.
10
F
11
From
14
B
to
H
to I
the line just
H
is
drawn
inside of
half the full breast
—
B measure
to
H.
measure (18).
2J4 inches center of breast. 16 B to is blade (with 1^4 inches for seams) (12>4). 17 Square up from K^front of armhole. 15
is
K
18
L L
is
half
M
way between B and K.
21
P
22 23
A Q
inches—width of Back. down to N. is 3^ inch from line O-M draw line to N. to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths" and to R is V/i inches square up to S, J^ inch.
24
K
to
19
to
is
;
— ;
T
is
V/i inches;
T
to
—
U
is
1/12 breast.
from U locating the shoulder point. 26 V is located on lines from K and A through line 3. 27 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 25 Square up to
V
28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders.
29 Rise
X Y
at
X
3^ inch
and lower
at point
—
1
the same.
on the S-U line or Style. from the O-M line and 1/12 up from M. 32 Draw ouide line from Y to P and P to N. 30 31
is
is
Yz inch
Yz inch
meet
attitude, will
line
A
(10).
for fulness held in over the blade.
to
V
(13j^), in normal attitude will meet hne A-V. Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and
K
Z; when normal will meet line F-V (18)4)from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. to
Z
is
V
to point
1^4 inches
1 is
^
inch less than
a line from point
1
S
to
X.
to T.
Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding ^4 in. over Z. B to 2 is >4 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3J/2 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is J/^ waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 5 to 8 is 2Y2 inches, 9 to 10 the same. Apply hip measure and J^ inch for 3 seams; width of Back from 12 to D and from 10 to 11 (add
—
—
^s inch).
1^
11 to 12 is
inches, square up, locating 13.
Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
Draw
1^
is
inches.)
a line from 13 through 11 to 14.
Measure waist and 1}4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. to 14 is the length from Y to N. Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16 going out
V
—
y& inch over 11 to 14
1>4
20 Square up to O, and
normal
is
Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to \V. Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K
^
13
apply depth of scye measure, and Yi
in
Tlie Y^ '"ch
Draw
1/3 breast on '3rds" and Zyz inches (9>2). to 4 is 1/3 breast on "3rds" of height, and 3^
2 3 to
A
to
Draw
line 15
Draw
line 14 to 7
to Style.
and take out a J4 inch; pleat at 33. (Reduce Y2 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 in. from line K. The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge.
V
to 18
is
%
at 17. shape bottom, lower 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. ;
draw
and 5. from 19. 1 inch; square down. from 6 and shape front.
18 to 19
is
Ya breast;
19 to 20
is
2Ya inches, or Style
I
to J is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is in 3/2 inch at 7 ; draw line
Go
V
from 19
line
;
notch
J/2
to I in.
draw a line to end of roll. 2/3 sleeve length and Y^ '"ch from K.
to 21 is 134 inches;
The pocket (For
is
dou1)le breasted
add 2Ya inches
to the front.)
— COATS
38
§
1
Short and Stout Diagram 14 The measures
56.
17^
Inside sleeve
are taken over the Vest always.
1^
Blade (with
inches.
Breast
42
inches.
seams added)
Waist
40
inches.
Depth of scye
43
inches.
Natural waist
Hip or
seat
inches for
13^
inches.
9^
inches.
34 The
inch
J/2
8,
36 Shape the Back as shown; draw
line
37 Apply strap measure and
V
to
16>4 inches.
Strap
13
m
inches.
Full length
inches.
Height 5 feet
Corpulent,
inches.
6
inches.
Attitude, erect
Sizes,
Square both wajs from
2 6 to 3
B
36 to 46 breast.
A
5
This
7
A C
6.
1/3 breast on "3rds" and
is
to 7 is 1/3 breast of height,
4
6
B
way between
half
is
C
to
1/3 breast
is
7 and
10
F
is
11
Square out from A, B, C, D, E,
12
C to G is From the B to H is
13
14 15
H
16
R
3/2
K
is
19
L L
inch
;
draw
2^
inches
M
to
F and
to
and down B measure
to E. to
measure (21).
K— front
is
of breast.
of armhole.
B and K.
P
22
A Q K
23
24
is 3/^
to
Q
to
R T
to
inch from line is
1/12 breast
is
1^<2
is
V
27
Draw
V
from
located on lines
is
lines
O-M
;
line to
from S
to
to
U
30 31
32 33
X is Y is
X
J/^
U — locating the K and 6. U and F to V.
S-U
inch from the
line
O-M
—or
line,
8 {9}i)
;
in
normal
from point
to 2
is
S
to
1
to T.
"halves" 2
breast on
1/2
1.
X.
;
in.
over Z.
K is S'/z
to
inches.
is
48 4
to 5 is
50 5 to 8
is
2 inches, 9 to 10
is
17.
—center
of waist.
the same.
Measure the waist
:
spring from
55
(Proportional hip spring, 12 to 11
56
Draw
and obtain the hip
57
Y
to 14 is the length from Y to N. Shape sideseam of forepart from Y
Z
to 7
inch over 11 to 14
1
is
Draw
is
on 34. 64 By cutting
Style.
and 1/12 up from M.
68 69 70 71
yi inch
72
A.
73
line
V to
18
to 16,
going out
or Style.
E
and
1
inch,
from
line
K.
shape the bottom; lower
%
inch for 3 seams
D, and from 10 to
;
^
at 17.
width of back
11.
2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33
at
is
66 18 to 19 67 19 to 20
the same.
to
to
inches.)
14.
taken up in making the front edge.
line 14 to 7,
from 12
65
Z
length from
inch
—
1%
is
a line from 16 through 11 to
62 Measure hip and
meet
first
This rule applies where the waist even, or more, than the breast. it.
inch.
shoulder point.
attitude, will
through 4 to
waist on "halves"
3^2
52 Corpulency
63 Open
1
K
47 Square down from
61 ^^s
Draw guide line from Y to P and P to N. From B up apply depth of scye measure, and to
B
60 The
from
inch and lower at point
J4 inch on the 1/2
45
1/12 breast.
is
through Z to point
inch less than
a guide line
N
"12ths" and
T
%
1 is
to
meet Une F-V.
K.
line
V
(19%) B
inch
will
44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding }A
59
draw
28 This give the proportional height of shoulders.
29 Rise at
Draw
to point
^
inches; square up to S,
lyi inches;
25 Square up to
26
43
58
inches— width of back.
1>4
as above line V-6.
1
53 Measure waist and 1^4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 54 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is 1% inches.
20 Square up to O, and down to N. 21
V
H.
blade (with 1J4 inches for seams, 13-)4)-
from
much
51 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up.
6.
G
inside of
—center
as
3/2
when normal
;
from
a line from
is
halfway between
is
F
line
drawn
line
49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure.
and B, for front shoulder height.
half the full breast
17 Square up
18
for length
Length of Back.
line just
to I is to
;
to the natural waist gives correct length.
the Full
134 inches
42
W.
R
to
K
allowances.
all
(7) seatline.
to
is
is
Draw
to
is
attitude
A
normal blade and independent of the actual blade and comes even with in normal sizes.
—on "3rds"
A
half between 6
40 Z
6.
9
E
Go back from K-V
41
X.
to
from B
and K normal will meet
inch,
1
39 Apply over shoulder measure and
46 This
one- fourth height, and }i inch
is
D
to
8 Added
inches (10>4).
S'/z
and 3>4 inches (9>^).
the proportional and includes
is
when
;
W and K to Z To Draft.
1
38
degree.
1
Form and
30
(14^)
S
6-K.
line
Over shoulder 18^
for fullness held in over the blade.
is
35 Obtain point S from 8 and shape
to pocket
and front of pocket.
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
%
draw
from 19
and 5. from 19. I to J is 1 34 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. Go in y^ inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. V to 21 is 1% inches; draw line to end of roll. The pocket as usual draw line from K to 33. One button go in 1 inch between waist and seatline. For chesty coats or curved lapel cut a F in gorge. is
is
breast;
line
234 inches, or Style
;
;
;
notch 14
to I
in.
COATS
DIAGRAM
14
SHORT AND STOUT
39
COATS
40
ยง
\
DIAGRAM
15
-CORPULENT
2
DEGREE
I
1
COA'J'S
1
§
41
Corpulent Sack Diagram 15 The measures
57.
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
18^
Breast
44
inches.
Waist
44
inches.
Depth of scye 10>^
inches.
45
inches.
Natural waist
17^
inches.
Full
32
inches.
feet 10
inches.
Hip or
seat
Blade (with l^^ inches for
inches.
seams added) 14}4 inches.
I3y2 inches.
Strap
Over shoulder 19>^
length
Height
inches.
5
Attitude, stooping.
Sizes, 42 to 52 breast.
To Draft. Square both ways from
B
3
B
to 3
4.
1/3 breast on "3rds" and Syi inches {lOji).
is
1/3 breast on "3rds" of height, and Syi
is
inches
(10^)
A is
;
way between
half
4 This
is
the proportional
5
A
to
C
is
one- fourth height, and
6
C
to
D
is
1/3 breast
7
Added
8
A
9
F
and includes
—on "3rds"
^
all
3
and
4.
allowances.
inch; for length.
{7yi) Seat
line.
to the natural waist gives correct length.
E
Back (32). 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 10 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 11 C to G is inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 12 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 13 B to H is half the full breast measure (22). to
the Full Length of
is
half between
is
^
14 15
16 17
18
—center of B K blade (with 1J4 inches for seams) Square up from K— front of armhole.
H L L
to I
2^4 inches
is
to
is
is
half
to
M
P
is
21
A Q
to
22
Q R
is
is
from
down
(14^).
line
0-N draw ;
—on
line to
^
to
T
is
134 inches;
T
to
—
U
1/12 breast. point.
X Y
is
54 inch on the
S-U
line
—or
Style.
from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 32 Draw guide lines from Y to P and P to N. 33 From B up apply depth of scye measure, and j/i inch to 5 (11) when normal attitude, will meet 31
is
y, inch
;
line
A.
Draw
V
U-V
much
as
;
K
meet
to
as below line 4.
B
inch
1
when normal
and will
W and
to
meet
will
line
F-V.
inches from line K.
V
a line from
to point
1
is
through Z
to point
S
}i inch less than
1.
X.
to
44 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 45 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi in. over Z. 46 B to 2 is 1/2 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3^/^ in. 47 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 48 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 49 4 to 5 is 34 waist on "halves center of waist. 50 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure.
—
51 5 to 8
2 inches, 9 to 10
is
the same.
is
52 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 53 Corpulency: hip spring
waist
is
Measure the waist first and obtain the from it. This rule applies where the
even, or more, than the breast.
1%
down from
55 Square 57
Draw
P
inches
58
Y
G
to
from
Y
N.
Y
62
Draw
1
is
the length
—or
Style.
E
1
inch over 11 to 14
16.
1;4 inches. inches.)
is
length from
inch
is
Z
to
and
to 16, going out
inch,
line 14 to 7,
shape the bottom
^
line 15
from
line
K.
taken up in making the front edge.
lower
;
inch for 3 seams 63 Measure hip and from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11.
Draw
1^
is
to
The
is
a line from 16 through 11 to 14.
to 14
61
and 8 to
16 to 12; 12 to 11
59 Shape sideseam of forepart from
64 is
28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 29 Rise at X J/2 inch and lower at point 1 the same. 30
line
Z (lOyi)
to
1^
is
60 Z to 7
K
from U locating the shoulder 26 V is located on lines from U and 4. 27 Draw lines from S to U and F to V.
V
42 43
inch.
;
K
Z
^
1/16 inch each size above 4 inches less than breast, to straighten the take it out in the underarm cut as front run shown by shaded part on diagram.
24
41
N.
"12ths" and
inches; square up to S,
23 Advance upper part from
25 Square up to
from
R
to
normal
is
56 (Proportional hip spring, 12 to 11
N.
to
1/12 breast
l^
V
54 Measure waist and
114 inches— width of Back.
is
J4 inch
to
breast.
way between B and K.
19 Square up to O, and
20
(14>^); when attitude line 4-V. 39 Advance
A
inch,
1
V
K
Form and
1
38 Apply strap measure and
40 Apply over shoulder measure and
Corpulent 2 degrees.
2 4 to
34 The '/i inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 35 Lay square on 5, O and F, and square lines 0, 5 and F. 36 Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 37 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W.
;
and take out the shaded
^
at 17.
width of Back
part.
65 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 on 34 by cutting to pocket and front of pocket. 66
V to
18
is
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
}i breast; draw Hne from 19 to I and 5. 68 Advance at I the amount from K, shaded part. 69 19 to 20 is 2>4 inches, or Style notch yi in. from 19. 70 I to J is lj4 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 71 Go in J^ inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. 72 V to 21 is \j4 inches; draw line to end of roll. 73 The pocket as usual; draw line from K to 33. 74 One button. Go in 1 inch between waist and seatline.
67 18 to 19
is
;
COATS
42
Corpulent Sack Diagram 16 The measures
58.
Inside
sleeve
are taken over the Vest always.
Blade (with
18>4 inches.
1%
35
The
inch for fullness held in over the blade.
3/2
36 Obtain point S from half inches for
and shape A, S
s-s,
X.
to
37 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. 38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and when attitude is normal will meet to V (16%) ;
Breast
52
inches.
16^
inches.
Waist
56^
inches.
Depth of scye 10%
inches.
53
inches.
Natural waist
17^
inches.
15%
inches.
Full length
32
inches.
inches.
Height
10
inches.
Hip or
seat
Strap
Over shoulder 22
seams added)
5 feet
Attitiule, normal.
Sizes,
42 to 52 breast.
4-V.
line
B
39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch K to Z (23) when normal will meet
from line K. from V through Z
W and
to
line
;
40 Z
Corpulent 3 degrees.
Form and
K
;
F-V.
134 inches
is
41
Draw
42
V
a line
to point
1
is
%
to point
1.
inch less than S to X.
Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3<2 in. over Z. 45 B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 334 inches. 46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 43
To Draft. Square both ways from 4. B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (12%). 3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and Syi inches (9>^). 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 6 A to C is one- fourth height, and inch; for curve 1
2 4 to
^
of Back.
D is 1/3 breast on "3rds'' (8%) Seatline. 8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9 A to E- is the Full Length of Back. 10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 C to G is J4 inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 14 B to H is half the full breast measure (26). 7
C
15
H
16
B
to
to to
I
K
—center
2^4 inches blade (with
is is
17 Square up
18 19
L L
is
to
half
M
1^
K— front
from
of breast.
20 Square up
1J4 inches
F
is
48 4 to 5
of armhole.
—width of
50 5 to 8
is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 52 Corpulency Measure the waist first and obtain the hip spring from it. This rule applies where the waist is even, or more, than the breast.
51
:"
53 Measure waist and I34 inches
yi inch
P
56
Draw
57
Y
the length
is
from
%
—
inch over 11 to 14
59 Z to 7
22 4 to
60 The
1
Draw
to 16.
1%
inches.
1;4 inches.)
is
Y
to
N.
length from
is
Y
going out
to 16
or Style.
Z
to
E
and
from
inch,
1
K.
line
61
and 8 is
a line from 16 through 11 to 14.
to 14
%
G
to
16 to 12; 12 to 11
58 Shape sideseam of forepart from
Back.
;
Q is 1/12 Q to R is ly2
down from
54 Square
O, and down to P.
to
—
34 waist
is
55 (Proportional hip spring; 12 to 11
from line O-M draw line to N. breast—on "12ths" and inch. inches; square up to s, 23 24 Advance upper part from K 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches less than breast, to straighten the take it out in the underarm cut as front run shown by shaded part on diagram. 21
K through 4 to 17. on "halves" center of waist. 49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 47 Square down from
inches for seams) (163/2).
way between B and K.
is
;
inch
is
taken up in making the front edge.
line 14 to 7,
62 Measure hip and
shape the bottom
^
inch
for 3
;
%
lower
seams
at 17.
width of
;
;
25
K
26 27 28 29 30
Square up
to
T
is
ly, inches;
T
to
U
is
U — locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U and 4. Draw lines from s to U and F to V. to
V
from
point.
32
line 15
at 2 the
V
to 18
66 18 to 19
X Y
68 19 to 20
is
yi inch
is
>4
—
in.
;
and take out the shaded
amount of
seat surplus
11.
part.
and fold 33 on
34 by cutting to pocket and front of pocket. 65
This gives the proportional height of shoulders. Rise at X 3^2 inch and lower at point 1 the same.
on the S-U line or Style. from the O-M line, and 1/12 up from M. 33 Draw guide lines from Y to P and P to N. 34 From B up apply depth of scye measure, and yi inch when normal attitude, will meet to A (11%) line A. 31
back from 12 to D, and from 10 to
Draw 64 Open
63
1/12 breast.
is is
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
is
draw line from 19 to amount from K, shaded
34 breast;
67 Advance at
1
the
2}i inches, or Style; notch >4
I
and
5.
part.
in.
from
19.
70
to J is \}i inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. Go in 34 inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front.
71
V
69
I
to 21
is
134 inches;
draw
line to
end of
roll.
The pocket as usual; draw line from K to 33. 73 One Button. Go in 1 inch between waist and seatline. 72
ยง
COATS
1
DIAGRAM
16
CORPULENT
43
3
DEGREE
COATS
DIAGRAM
17
-MILITARY BLOUSE
ยง
1
1
§
COATS
1
45
Military Blouse Diagram 17 The measures are taken over the Vest always.
59.
17%
Breast
36 inches.
Blade (with 1J4 inches for seams added) 12^ in.
Waist Hip or seat
31 inches.
Depth of scye
37 inches.
Natural waist
Inside sleeve
Strap
inches.
Full length
\2y2 inches.
Over shoulder
Form
8%
Height
17 inches.
29 inches. 6 inches.
feet
5
Sizes, ii to
ant! attitude, erect.
inches.
IGj/^ inches.
42 breasts.
42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding i^ in. over Z. 43 B to 2 is >4 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3% inches. 44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 45 Square down from K through 4 to 17.
—
of the waist and to check the blade measure.
To Draft. 48 5 1
Square
B
botii
ways from
A
or
4.
on "3rds" and 3^ inches (9j/2). and 3>^ inches. 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 6 A to C is one-fourth height and 34 'nch for curve of 2 4 to 3
B
is
1/3 breast
to 3 is 1/3 breast of height
Back (16%).
D
7
C
8
Added
to the natural waist gives correct length.
9
A
is
10
F
1
to
to
E
is
1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat line.
is half between B and 4 for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4.
14 15
H
to
16
B
to
13
;
is
I
K
2y2 inches, center of breast.
21
blade (with \%. inches for seams) (12^). Square up from K front of armhole. L is half way between B and K. is 1% inches width of Back. L to Square up to O and down to N, locating 16. A to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths" and
22
Q
to
23
K
to
17
18
19
20
is
—
— —
M R T
\y2 inches; square
is
l^
inches;
24 Square up from 25
V
26
Draw
is
—
is
U
from S
U
to
to S, y& inch.
U, and F
to
is
2 inches, 9 to 10
M
29
X Y
is
%
X%
58
15.
Add a J4 'nch on each side of 13. Draw lines from 15 through 13, locating
S-U
inch on the
66 19 to 20 and I to J are 1 inch. 67 Shape the gorge and front. Add a >4-inch stand. 68 In shaping the gorge for erect, the curve must fall inch from junction U-18 line. into the normal, 69 The opening for the sword is half on each side of
%
seat line point.
facing or
and 6 inches long, finished with a loose flap.
70 4 buttons, about
4%
inches apart, and 2 hooks below.
1
Collars
the same. 60. It
line.
is
surprising
how
i2 The Yz inch is for fullness held in over the blade. and shape S to X. 33 Obtain point S from
journeyman fashion him by the cutter.
from
the
O-N
line,
A
A
34 Shape the Back as shown; draw 35 Apply strap measure, and
36
Go
1
inch
from B to W. R and K to V meet line 4-V.
line
A
to
(13>4) in normal attitude will back from K-V line as much as above line V-4, or y2 as
much from
line
U.
i7 Apply over shoulder measure and
W and K
to
40
V
41
Draw
to point 1
is
1
inch (18)
Z when normal, meet ;
38 Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 39 Draw a line from V through Z
%
inch less than
a guide line from point
1
34.
V.
to
inch and lower at point
>^ inch
and
60 14 to 42 equal to 14 to 43. 61 Z to 34 equals Z to 14. 62 Z to 7 equals Z to E from line K. 63 Shape bottom 14 to 34 and 33 to 7. 64 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 65 18 to 19 is J4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5.
are about the collar, as
is
H
59 Shape the underarm cut from 44.
and 1/6 up from M. 31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J/2 inch (9^) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 30
the same.
M
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders.
28 Rise at
is
;
1-12 breast.
is
V, locating the shoulder from K and 4.
to
located on lines lines
T
up
8
49 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 50 to 42 is y& breast N to 43 is the same. 51 22 is half way between G and 16. 52 P is half way between 16 and 22. 53 Draw a line from through P to 14. 54 Shape the Back and side seam. 55 Apply waist measure net 22 to G and 8 to P. 56 Draw line 15 and take out the surjjlus (%) half on 57
C to G is % inch draw line A to G and down to E. From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
12
to
each side of
Back (29).
the Full Length of
—
46 4 to 5 is j/2 waist on "halves" center of waist. 47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center
line
to point
S
to X.
to T.
1.
F-V.
B
to
how
it
is cut,
so long as
It
it
if
indifferent the cutters usually it
was of
little
consequence
either long or short, or round, or straight,
has the appearance of a collar
;
or else
let
the
himself from the cloth furnished
it
should be patent that
short collar will not do,
if
a long collar
and vice versa.
is
correct, a
That there
is
such a thing as a correct collar, or that it can be cut to be exactly like the balance of the coat, seems to have escaped their observation. As a rule, only in wholesale clothing is an attempt made to cut them to fit. We say attempt advisedly, because from experience the so-called ought first-class houses do not cut them exactly as they to go in or on the coat and why not ? will proceed to show, and prove that it can be ;
We
done.
COATS
46
Collars Place the
61.
— Diagram 18
This
button; or the end of the
flrst
§
roll
as
V
complete.
is
Double
64.
Place the square with lj4 inches mark on point and the long arm of the square at the end of the roll.
the stand of the collar, and for a military
is
standing collar
desired.
Collar.
—For a double collar cut another
piece for the leaf the width desired
(2;j-4
inches in this
case).
The corner of the square thereby establishes point Mark from V through A to end of roll. Do not make the mistake and go out from point V l}i inches
with raw edges and 3-ply of canvas in the stand.
and then draw the crease
D, or to
A.
line.
A is as much a point in this
Point
move
square in 36 size 3 inches;
and
A
R
to
the square up 3 inches
is in this
arm on A) mark down stand of the collar. parallel with
to
D
on is
is
V
width desired shape from E.
Shape from
;
continue to the end of the collar.
When
collar.
break
line is to the coat
break
line
is
brought back to
from where the collar is the amount of ful-
roll.
all
;
The
outside leaf of the collar
the underside or stand
same length
is
stretched until
This collar can
now be
on the under
The
V
estab-
to 28.
V
through 29 to 31,
32
to
lj4 inches;
is
draw
line
from 31 through 32
Square out
to
30 by 21-29 for width desired (4 inches
in this case).
The
leaf is about 2^4 inches
length for working
From
break
V
Read
to 21
wide; allow ^2 inch to
in.
line to
end of collar reduce a J^ inch.
Fur Collar
— Diagram on coat
description
first
lyl inches;
draw a
22
collar.
end of
roll,
estab-
a line from 27 through V to 28. 28 equals A to R. inch; square from V through 29 28 to 29 is
to 31,
is
line to
lishing 27.
if
the coat
hung on
to
^
the col1_^4
inches for stand.
V
— Diagram 19
to
32
is
134 inches;
draw a
line
from 31 through
32 to 27.
62. Sliows the different lengths of roll, all obtained
the outside length, as
V
the linen collar clear around to the
The longer the roll the shorter shown by the circle and dash line.
as previously explained.
of fullness and length of the collar regulates
Square out
to
30 by 21-29 the width desired
(4^
inches in this case).
Shape as represented and cut out the the collar as cut in position as
shown
collar.
Place
in
every time.
Military Collar
— Diagram
Diagram 23
20
Measure the length of the collar on the coat, or Example: 1 inch more than the linen collar. Linen collar, 15 coat collar, 16 inches. Draw a line from 63.
make
roll,
Draw
hug
Collars
itself
end of
line to
to 27.
put on, shaped before or after
button by the hanger, like some of them do.
The amount
draw a
%
66.
break line and not appear as lar
always.
lyi inches for stand.
collar.
coat will
it
inches;
a line from 27 through V 28 equals A to R. 28 to 29 is inch; square from
as the outside.
putting on, and the top collar put on without an iron put
1^
21
to
has the
it
for
description for cutting collars on the
first
is
not stretched at
is
— Diagram
Draw
ness that particular collar needs according to the length
of
to 21
V
This completes the
the end of the collar
the notch of the coat, the difference
more
lishing 27.
more. leaf is
Read
coat collar, and follow
^
The
inch
circle cut
Ulster or Storm Collar
past V.
D, allowing an y^ inch opposite V, which, when stretched, will disappear, striking the gorge at the break line, and
^
for width of stand.
it
65.
Square up from D through C to E. C to E is width desired. Square from B. At the notch of the coat rise a inch to the collar and make the collar ^^ inch longer from the notch out. For a seam collar add a j4 inch
amount
has the advantage over other methods hugs the collar very close at the top edge, which exactly what is wanted for all standing collars. The collar is put on without any extra fulness.
in that
C and line
C and
lines represent the leaf.
top collar, represented by the dot and dash lines,
the leaf and even
for the
up and mark a
Pull the square
C-A from
This
inches.
The broken
suit.
cut after the under collar, allowing
is
The
position (corner
D 1^
are sewed together at the top edge, G-F-B,
leaf has a spread of about }i inch opposite
The
with the
Mark down to C ^ inch while the square is lying on point B and the crease line. Move the corner of the square down to point C and the long arm touching point A and mark from C to A. This is the collar break line. While the square
The
on Point B.
the corner rest
let
The two
case as point V.
Measure the width of back from
Square out from 32 through V to 33. Sweep from 33 to 34 and from 33 to 35 lyi inches;
67.
it
pivot at V.
;
A
to
E
E
the full length of collar (16).
F
1^ inches, or width desired. Sweep from E to C and E to D, half the to
;
pivot at A.
This
is
length of the
;
Diagram 24
the lower edge of 68. Represents the complete
.the collar.
to
G
from
A
Sweep from F
Draw
Cut the pattern from 33 to 32; lay on another piece pivot at V.
of paper and open as from 34 to 35
is
collar (8 inches)
lines
run of slant in front.
1
and F to B. through B to
show
D
and
G
to
C
for
The broken lines which a piece must be
collar.
the stand, as bent over, in
stoted to give circumference to the stand.
The stand can be
cut with less stand,
if
desired.
§
COATS
1
47
DIAGRAM
DIAGRAM
22, 23,
24 —
FUR COLLAR
DIAGRAM
21
18
- ULSTER
COLLAR
48
COATS
ยง 1
;
§
COATS
2
PART TWO
Cutaway Frock Diagram 25 Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always.
1.
Inside sleeve
Blade (with
17 J4 inches. inches 36
1^
inches for
Waist Hip or seat
32
inches.
37
inches.
Strap
12
inches.
seams added) I23/2 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. Natural waist \6}4 inches. Fashion waist 18^ inches.
Over shoulder 17
inches.
Full length
Breast
Attitude, normal.
1
.Square both
A
inches.
40 Z 41
Draw
Sizes 33 to 42 breasts.
42
V
43
Draw
ways from A.
3 This
is
1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (9>2). the proportional, and includes all allowances.
A A
to
C
is
to
D
is
one-fourth height, and j4 inch for length. the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
is
\y, inches (l&'A).
6
D
to
50
7
A
to
E
8
F
is
Ij^ inches, line from
is
A
through 50
to E.
the Full Length of Back.
is
A
and B, for front shoulder height. E and F. half the full breast measure (18).
half between
9 Square out from A, B, C, D,
H
10
B
11
H
to I is
12
B
to
to
is
K
2^
1%
—
17
F
18
A Q K
19
20
52
G
O
;
^
is
ly, inches;
21 Square up from
22
V
23
Draw
is
U
to
T
to 13.
the waist
V—
U
is
from U and A. from S to U, F to V and
A
to
K.
24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 25 Rise at X 3^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
X Y
—
on the S-U line or Style. 27 is J/ inch from the O-M line. 28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch to A; in normal attitude will meet line A (9^).
26
is
>4 inch
30 The J^ inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 31 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 32 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and '2 inch. 33
Draw
34 49 to 35 49
is
a line from
G
G
on F-V and
N and from Back over breast-line.
to
for width of
A-K
lines.
V
to 18
smaller than the breast.
down ;
to 23
;
23
is
^
inch below the
or sweep from the Back by Y.
is
58 19 to 20 59
I to
J
61 Skirt
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
is
57 18 to 19
34 breast
is
is
60 Draw a
located on lines lines
is
54 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 55 Shape side body, reducing }i inch near Y, }i inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 56
inch.
1/12 breast. locating the shoulder point.
to
—
22 is 1^4 inches, or 1^4 inches in all sizes to inch for every inch allow for blade fullness and
fashion waist
—
T
1.
to
53 Square up, and
and down to P. square down is yi inch from line O-M on "T2ths/' and to Q is 1/12 breast to R is lyi inches; square up to S, to
to point
%
—
M
Z
1 is
;
14
16 Square up to
V
J^ inch less than S to X. a guide line from point 1 to T.
to point
—
inches for seams).
Square up from K front of armhole. L is half way between B and K. 15 L to is 1>4 inches width of Back. 13
1J4 inches from line K. a line from through
44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder, rounding J/2 in. over Z. 45 B to 2 is 3^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3)/^ inches. 46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 48 4 to 5 is "X waist on ''halves" center of waist. 49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of waist, and to check the blade measure. 50 5 to 8 is 214 inches 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 51 These 2^ inches are for seams and make-up.
inches, center of breast.
blade (with
is
is
;
B
5
K
inches.
to
4
W and
39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18).
6
To Draft. 2
;
37
Height 5 feet
Form and
^
3b Blade fullness is inch over the rounding. 37 Shape the back as shown draw line from B to W. 38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to \' in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13).
;
draw
214 inches
;
line
notch
from 19 to I and inch from 19.
5.
y
134 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch. from 13 to 10 and shjipe forepart.
line
— square both ways from 23.
62 23 to 12
is
1/3 breast, and 34 inch.
63 12 to 11
is
134 inches; 11 to 27
is
'.4
inch.
from 23 through 11 and 14. 65 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 66 23 to bottom is 34 incsh more than D to E. 67 Lay square on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom.
64 Draw a
68 69 70 72
line
Shape
skirt
Z
is
to 7
Draw
through 27 to bottom.
length from
line 14 to 7;
Z
to
E
and
1
inch from line K.
shape bottom; lower
1
Take out a fish Ys inch. 1/6 up from 15. 73 Go out 3/ from D and line parallel to 50-E. 74 Reduce 3^ inch at B from A to C. 75 Shape front run of skirt.
inch at 17.
1
;
COATS
§2
Cutaway Stout Diagram 26 2.
The measures
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
18^
inches.
Breast
42
inches.
Blade (with
1^
inches for
seams added) 14 inches. Waist Depth of scye 9ji inches. 40y2 inches. Hip or seat 43 inches. Natural waist 17^ inches. Strap I3y2 inches. Fashion waist 19^ inches. Over shoulder 19 inches. Full length 39 inches. Stout, 1 degree. Height 5 feet 10 inches. Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes 40 to 46 breasts.
39 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. to V 40 Apply strap maesure and 1 inch A to R and in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (1434). and 41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to
K
W
K
42 43
44 45
46
To Draft. Square both ways from A or 4. 2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and
47 48
1
3j/2 inches.
3
B
to 3
4
A
is
5
This
is
the proportional, and includes
6
A A
to
C
is
to
D
7
is
1/3 breast of height, and 3^^ inches.
way between 4 and
half
49 50
3. all
allowances.
one-fourth height, and ^4 '"ch for length. the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
is
V/2 inches (19>4).
D
to 50
is
12
B
to
H
13
H
to
I is
14
B
to
K
1)4 inches, line
A
half the full breast
is
—
measure (21).
2)4 inches center of Breast. is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams)
—
21
up from K front of armhole. way between B and K. to is 1>^ inches— width of Back. Square up to O, and down to P. P is 3/2 inch from line O-M square down to 13. A to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths," and Q to R is 15^ inches; square up to S 5^ inch.
22
K
15 Square
16 17 18
19
20
L L
is
(14).
;
—
lyz inches;
is
23 Square up from
24
V
25
Draw
is
U
to
T
to
U
is
1/12 breast.
V— locating
the shoulder point.
from U and A. from S to U, F to V, and
located on lines lines
A
to
K.
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X 3^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 28 X is 3^ inch on the S-U line or Style. 29 Y is J/2 inch from the O-M line.
—
30 31
Draw guide line from X to Y. From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch to A; in normal attitude will meet line A (10^).
32 The yi inch 33
C
to
G
is
34
E
to
N
is
35
Draw
is
for fullness held in over the blade.
1/16 breast and 134 inches. same width as 50 to G. and 3^ inch.
the
a line
from
36 49 to
G
37 49
on F-V and
is
G
for width of
38 Blade fullness
is
to
and from
Back over breast
A-K 5-^
N
—
—
234 inches
is
9 to 10
;
54
G
22
to
I3-2
is
inches, or 1)4 inches in
inch 'the waist
is
lines.
inch over the rounding.
all
sizes to
and }i inch for every
for blade fullness
allow
smaller than the breast.
down
to 23
23
;
^
is
inch below the
Back by Y. and 8 to 16. in. at 57 Shape side body by reducing 34 inch near Y, breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 56 Measure waist net
G
P
to C,
to 22,
^
58
V
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
to 18 is
draw
from 19 to I and inch from 19.
59 18 to 19
is
34 breast;
60 19 to 20
is
234 inches; notch
^Jj
inches; 5 to 6
is
61
I to
62
Draw
J
is
13^2
line
63 10 to 35
inch.
1
3^ inch;
is
draw
line
from 13
to 35.
64 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a
F
65 Shape forepart from 13 through 36 to
10.
66 Advance 23 the amount of 67 Skirt
68 23 to 12 69 12 to 11
Draw
71
14
is
V
— Square both ways from
70
5.
a line from 13 to 10 and shape front.
is is
at 36.
and seams. 23.
1/3 breast, and J^ inch. 1>4 inches; 11 to 27 is ;54 inch.
a line from 23 through 11 and natural waist, and
72 23 to bottom
is
34 inch
1
14.
inch from 23.
more than D to E. mark for run of bottom.
73 Lay square on 27-14 and
74 Shape 75
Z
to 7
skirt is
through 27 to bottom.
length from
Z
to
E
and
1
inch from line K.
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 79 Go out 34> inch from D and line parallel to 80 Reduce 3^ inch at B from A to C. 76
line.
1/6 breast.
is
53 These 2)4 inches are for seams and make-up.
fashion waist; or sweep from the
M
T
;
55 Square up and
half
to
^
52 5 to 8
from
through 50 to E. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 8
51
Z; when normal, meet line F-V (20). Z is 134 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is inch less than S to X. Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3^2 in. over Z. B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 33^ inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 34 waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of waist, and to check the blade measure. to
81 Shape front run of skirt.
inch at 17.
50-E.
COATS
ยง2
k
DIAGRAM
26
CUTAWAY STOUT
COATS
DIAGRAM
27
CUTAWAY CORPULENT
ยง2
COATS
ยง2
Cutaway Corpulent Diagram 27 3.
The measures
Inside sleeve
19
are taken over the Vest always.
Blade (with Ij^ inches for seams added) 14^ inches.
Depth of scye 10)4
inches.
Natural waist 18 inches. Fashion waist 19^ inches. Full length
Height
5
39^
feet 11
inches. inches.
Sizes 40 to 48 breasts.
§2
COATS
Full Dress
On
Rever
Diagram 28 4.
The measures
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
17^
inches.
Blade (with
Breast
36
inches.
Waist Hip or seat
32 37
inches.
seams added) 12^ inches inches. Depth of scye 9
Strap
12
inches.
Over shoulder 17
inches.
inches.
39
Full length
.\ttitude, normal.
aiK
inches for
Natural waist 16;4 inches. Fashion waist 18J^ inches,
Height
Form
1^
5
.Sizes,
inches.
6
feet
inches
33 to 42 breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from A. to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and Syi inches (9>^). 3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3|4 inches. 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances.
V
through Z to point
43
Draw
a line from
44
V
45
Draw
J^ inch less than S to X. a guide line from point 1 to T.
to point
1
46 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding I/2 in. over Z. is 3)^ inches. 47 B to 2 is >1 breast on "halves" 2 to 48 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 49 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 50 4 to 5 is )/2 waist on "halves" center of waist. 51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to
6
—
—
K, 4 and 5
2,
7
to
to
C
one-fourth height, and
is
D
V/2
is
the fashion waist
inches
;
^
inch for length.
used only to obtain the front and to check the blade
is
D
to
50
is
1>4 inches, line from
A
to
E
is
the Full Length of Back.
A
through 50 to E.
F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
10 11
13
H
to I
14
B
to
16
L L
2j4 inches, center of Breast. blade (with 134 inches for seams) (12)4). 15 Square up from front of armhole. 17
is
to
K
19
P
21
A Q
22
K to
is
K—
way between B and K.
is
1^
inches—width of Back.
J/ inch
down to P. 0-M. Square down
from
24
line
—on "12ths," and
to
Q
to
R is l"/2 inches. Square up to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12
is
1/12 breast
S,
^
to 13.
G
1)4 dress)
6,
;
9 to 10
is
1/6
22 is 1)4 inches, or 1)4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and Ys inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast.
to
54 Square up, and
down
to 23
;
23
^
is
inch below the
fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 55 Measure waist net
G
to C,
P
and 8
to 22,
to 16.
^
inch at 56 Shape side body, reducing )4 inch near Y, breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13.
57
V
to 18
is
1/12 breast plus )4 inch, square forward
from 18 by K.
U
to
58 18 to 19 59
Draw
60
V
is
lin.e
to 21
is
)4 breast.
from 19
to
I
and 6 through 24. line to end of
draw
1)4 inches;
Roll.
61 Rounding )^ inch over the breast. 62 Square from 19 to 20 1)4 inches or more. 63 20 to 26 is 2)^ inches I to J is 2)4 inches.
— ;
64
inch.
breast.
V—locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U to A. Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K.
23 Square up from 25
2)4 inches (8 to
is
18 Square up from O, and
20
53
is
half
M
is
breast.
one-fourth height and
9
waist,
the
measure. 52 5 to 8
(ISJ^).
8
of
center
A
A A
K
;
1
2
1.
is
point.
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X J/j inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 28 X is 1/ inch on the S-U line—or Style. 29 Y is yz inch from the 0-M Line. 30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch to A, in normal attitude will meet line A (9^). 32 The yl inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1)4 inches. 34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and )/. inch. 35 Draw a line from G to N and from 36 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 38 Blade fullness is inch over the rounding. 39 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. 40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). and 41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 42 Z is 1)4 inches from line K.
%
line
65 10 to 24
is
66 24 to 35
is
from 13
to 10.
2)4 inches. 1)4 inches; 35 to 25
67 Square across from the break
is
the same.
line to 19, the
amount
of the opening 1)4 inches. 68 Draw a straight line to junction of break and front line; connect 19 and 20. 69 The opening is cut in the break line and on the 19 line ending off from the straight line.
70 Skirt
— — Square
both ways from 23.
71 23 to 12
is
1/3 breast, and )4 inch.
72 12 to 11
is
1)4 inches; 11 to 27
73
74 75
76 77 78 79 81
;
W
Draw
82 83
84
Draw
a line from 23 through
is ^,4
inch.
and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 23 to bottom is )4 inch more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. Draw line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower 1 inch at 17. Take out a fish )^ inch, 1/6 up from 15. Go out )4 from D and line parallel to 50-E. Reduce )^ inch at B from A to C. the width from 24 to 23 and 1 inch. 24 to 36 is 1 1
;
;
%
85 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and
86 Shape front run of
skirt.
1
inch.
COATS
COATS
ยง2
COATS
Full Dress Diagram 29
Breast
1
;
COATS
10
§2
Full Dress Stout Diagram 30 6.
The measures
are taken over the Vest always.
48 Thi
Inside sleeve 18>V4
inches.
Blade
Breast
inches.
seams added) 14 inches. Depth of scye 9^4 inches.
42
Waist
Hip or
seat
Strap
40>^ inches. 43 inches
Natural waist
13>4 inches.
Fashion waist 19
Over shoulder 19
inches.
Full length
Stout
degree.
Height
1
Form and
Attitude, normal.
inches
of the waist, and to check the blade measure. is 2}i inches (8 to 1/6 breast.
G
53
D
to
50
is
1^
9
A
to
E
is
the Full Length of Back.
10
F
is
half between 4
1
and B, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4.
12
B
to
H
13
H
14
B
16
L L
to I
is
K
is
half
to
M
A
from
through 50 to E.
254 inches, center of Breast.
blade (with l}i inches for seams) (14). 15 Square up from front of armhole. is
K—
17
way between B and K.
is
lj4 inches
18 Square up to
19
P
20
A Q K
21
22
^
O
25
to P.
T to U is 1/12 breast. V— locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U and 4. Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. T
is
to
^
^
;
W
45
Draw
to point
1
is
^
S
inch less than
a guide line from point
to
55
46 Shape arni-scye and shoulder rounding yi 47 B to 2 is J^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is ;
G
Measure waist net
inch below the
to C,
P
to 22,
and 8
to 16.
^
inch near Y, }i inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13.
V
to 18 is
58 18 to 19
Draw Draw
62
V
}i breast.
a line from 13 to
60 10 to 24 61
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K.
is
is
line
to 21
is
10.
214 inches.
from 19 through 1-6 to 35; -^4 beyond 1^ inches; draw line to end of Roll.
24.
63 Rounding a yi inch over the breast. 64 Square from 19 to 20, lyi inches or more. 65 Draw straight line with the forepart.
Draw
19, tlie
amount
a straight line to junction of break-line.
;
—
75 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a
76 Advance 23 the amount of
in.
over Z. inches.
V
at 36.
V
and seams. 77 Skirt Square both ways from 23. 78 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 3^ inch.
—
79 12 to 11 80 81
82
Draw
is
13^ inches; 11 to 27
is ;^4
inch.
from 23 through 11 and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. a line
83 84 85 86 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 89 Go out yi from D and line parallel to 50-E. 90 Reduce yi inch at B from A to C. 91 24 to 36 is 34 the width from 24 to 23 and 1 inch. 92 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. 93 Shape front run of skirt.
17.
Full Dress Corpulent only
3^
line,
K
The corpulent
X.
to T.
1
^
is
point.
—
V
23
69 The opening is cut in the break-line and on the 19 ending off from the straight line. 70 24 to 35 is 13-4 inches; 35 to 25 is the same. 71 Shape the gorge and front through 6-24 to 35. 72 Draw a line from through 20 to 26. 73 20 to 26 is 2}4 inches I to J is 2y^ inches. 74 Shape lapel through 26 J to 25.
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X J4 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 28 X is 3^2 inch on the S-U line or Style. 29 Y is inch from the O-M Line. 30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J.> inch to A, in normal attitude will meet line A (10J4)32 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1% inches. 34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and 1 inch. 35 Draw a line from G to N and from 36 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 38 Blade fullness is inch over rounding. 39 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. 40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V. in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (14)^). and 41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to K to Z; when normal meet line F-V (20). 42 Z is 1% inches from line K. 43 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1.
44
;
68 Connect 19 and 20.
lyi inches;
U
23
to
13.
^
to
down
56 Shape side body reducing
67
O-M.
—
23 Square up from
24
and down
inch from Line
is
of the opening (lyi).
Square down to to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths," and to R is 1^ inches. Square up to S, inch.
is
9 to 10
22 is IJ/2 inches, or 1^4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and yi inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast.
66 Square across from the break-line to
—width of Back.
;
fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y.
59
half the full breast measure.
is
to
inches, line
1>^ dress)
6,
to
54 Square up, and
57
8
—
52 5 to 8
;
lyi inches (19).
—
^
1
%
K
K
through 4 to 17. 50 4 to 5 is waist on "halves"- center of waist. 51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center
breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from 4. 2 4 to B is 1/ breast on "3rds" and 3>2 inches (10^). 3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches (10>^). 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 6 A to C is one- fourth height, and inch for length. 7 A to D is the fashion waist one fourth height and
normal blade and independent of the actual and comes even with in normal sizes.
49 Square down from
inches.
10
40 to 48
inches inches.
42 feet
5
Sizes,
IZj--^
is
blade,
lj4 inches for
(vk^ith
it
is
line 10-13
dress coat
is
cut the
same
as the stout
advisable to cut the skirt with a strap below
and also a loose
rever, so assist in
fullness over the corpulency.
working the
COATS
21A-^y
DIAGRAM
30
-
FULL DRESS STOUT
11
COATS
12
DIAGRAM
31
-DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK
ยง2
COATS
§2
13
Double-Breasted Frock Diagram 31 7.
The measures
are taken over the Vest always.
17^
Inside sleeve
1^
Blade (with
inches
inches for
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to VV and K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). Z is 134 inches from line K.
36 inches 32 inches Z7 inches
seams added) Depth of scye Natural waist
16-)<4
inches
V
Strap
12 inches
Fashion waist
18^
inches
Draw
Over shoulder
17 inches
Full length
Breast
Waist
Hip or
seat
Attitude, normal.
inches
9 inches
38 inches
Height
Form and
12j!X
5 feet
Sizes, 33 to
6 inches
42 breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from A. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rus" and 3^ inches (93/2). 3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 4 A to C is one-fourth height, and inch for length. 1
^
5
A
D
to
is
the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
ly. inches (18>4).
6
D
to 50
7
A
to
8
F
is
E
\y^ inches, line from
is
between
A
B
H
to
11
H
to I
12
B
to
E
254 inches, center of Breast. blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (12j.4). front of armhole. 13 Square up from 14 15
L L
is
K—
way between B and K.
half
M
to
is
1>4 inches
— width
of Back.
down to P. from line 0-M. Square down
16 Square up to O, and 17
18 19
20 21
22 23
P
is
J^ inch
to 13.
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on 'T2tiis," and Q to R is IJ^ inches. Square up to S, Y^ inch. K to T is ly. inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. Square up from U to V— locating the shoulder point. \' is located on lines from U and A. Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K.
24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 25 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 26 X is >^ inch on the S-U line or Style. 27 Y is >4 inch from the O-M line. 28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch (9>4) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A.
—
30 The yz inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 31 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches.
N
32
E
33
Draw
to
34 49 to 35 49
is
same width as 50 to G, and y> from G to N, and from G for width of Back over breast-line. on F-V and A-K lines. is
the
is
in
normal attitude
draw
;
38 Apply strap measure and will
inch
1
meet
line
A
from B to W. R and K to
to
A-V
(13).
;
22
to
1^
is
inches, or I34
inches in
all
sizes to
allow for blade fullness and y^ inch for each inch tlic waist is smaller than the breast.
down ;
to 21; 23 is Y^ inch below the or sweep from the Back by Y.
G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 1(5. body reducing ^4 inch near Y, inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. X to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw hne from 19 to I and 5. Add 34 inch rounding over the breast. Rever 19 to 20 is l3-'2 inches, or draw a straight line
54 Measure waist net
Shape
%
side
—
through 5-9; straighten 34 inch at 20. 10 to 24 is 234 inches 10 to 25 the same sweep by 20. ;
Draw Draw
a line is
;
—
a line
20 to 26
from 13 to 24 Shape from 13 from K through 20 to 26.
234 inches
;
I to
J
is
to 25.
334 inches.
—
Shape lapel through 26 J to 25. Square both ways from 23 for a close skirt. Draw a line from 23 to 24 square down to 12. ;
Flare
—At 23 go up 5^ inch and square down by 32.
to 12
is
1/3 breast, and 34 inch.
12 to 11
is
134 inches; 11 to 27
2})
Draw
a line
Shape
skirt
Z
is
is
;^4
inch.
from 23 through 11 and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 23 to bottom is 34 'nch more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. to 7
Draw
through 27 to bottom.
length from
line 14 to 7;
Z
to
E
Take out a
V
Go
fish y^ inch,
out 34 from
Reduce 3^ inch
D at
and
1
inch from line K.
shape bottom; lower
Square down the front edge
Y% inch over the rounding.
37 Shape the Back as shown
—
inch.
a line
36 Blade fidlness
1.
8 is ly^ inches 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up.
fashion waist
is
to point
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 5 to
53 Square up, and
is
K
through Z
inch less than S to X.
—
G
and F.
%
;
half the full breast measure (18).
is
is
1
a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >^ in. over Z. B to 2 is >^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>^ inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 1/2 waist on "halves" center waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front
and B, for front shoulder height.
9 Square out from A, B, C, D, 10
through 50 to E.
V
a line from
to point
the Full Length of Back.
is
half
A
Draw
and
to 7,
1
inch at 17.
by the waist Hne.
1/6 up from
15.
line parallel to 50-E.
B from
A to C.
§2
COATS
14
Single-Breasted Frock Diagram 32 8.
1>4 inches for seams added) 12>^ inches
Blade
17;^ inches
Inside sleeve
K
are taken over the Vest always.
The measures
Breast
36 inches
Waist
32 inches
(.w'tli
Depth of scye
to V 38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). and 39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to
W
K
9 inches
Z7 inches
Malural waist
16%
inches
40
Strap
12 inches
Fashion waist
41
Over shoulder
17 inches
Fulllength
18>^ inches 38 inches
5 feet 6 inches
43
Hip or
seat
Height
Form and
Sizes, iZ to
Attitude, normal.
42 breasts.
42 44 45
To
46
Drai't.
Square both ways from A. to B is 1/3 breast on "3kds" and 3>2 inches (9>4). 3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 4 A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 i"ch for length. 5 A to D is the fashion waist; one- fourth height and 1
2
A
V/z inches
6
D
to 50
7
A
to
8
F" is
E
(18M)-
134 inches, line from
is
A
through 50 to E.
A
half between
48 49
50 51
the Full Length of Back.
is
47
and B, for front shoulder height.
52
9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 11
H
12
B
14
L L
to
is
I
K is blade
is
half
M
to
K—
1%
—width of Back.
inches
down to P. O-M. Square down
16 Square up to O, and 17
18 19
20
P
is
^
inch from line
V
2i
Draw
is
U
to
V — locating
located on lines lines
26
X Y
\s
X
/S inch,
and lower
on the S-U
Yi inch
line
at point
—or
A
to
K.
1
the same.
is
34 inch
30 The Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 31 C to G is 1/16 breast and I34 inches.
N
2)2
E
33
Draw
to
is
the
a line
same width
G
from
34 49 to
G
35 49
on F-V and
is
to
for width of
36 Blade fullness
is
and from
Back over
A-K
^
as 50 to G, and 34 inch.
N
draw
23
;
P
is
to 22,
from B
to 18 is 1/12 breast; square
is
234 inches.
^
inch below the
Back by Y.
and 8
to 16.
W.
a line a line
from from
;
13 to 24.
line
forward from 18 by K. from 19 to I and 5.
Shape from
K through 20
13 to 25.
to 26.
61 20 to 26
is 234 inches; I to J is IJ^, 5 to 6 I34 inches. 62 Shape lapel through 26 J to 25. 63 Square both ways from 23 for close Skirt. Go up
—
64
from 32 a 34 inch for medium Skirt. a line from 23 to 24; square down
Draw
—
.\t
23 go up
^
inch and square
66 23 to 12
is
1/3 breast, and 34 inch.
67 12 to 11
is
13^ inches; 11 to 27
68
69 70 71
72 73
77 to
draw
58 10 to 24
76 line
23
to C,
34 breast
75
lines.
;
G
is
74
breast-line.
inch over the rounding.
37 Shape the Back as shown
V
65 Flare
Style.
from the O-M line. 28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and 3^ inch (934) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A.
27
to
or sweep from the
;
57 18 to 19
24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 25 Rise at
down
^
Draw 60 Draw
the shoulder point.
from U and .\. from S to U, F to V, and
—
smaller than the breast.
54 Measure waist net
59
1
22
is
fashion waist
56 to 13.
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on "12tus," and Q to R is 34 inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. K to T is 1J4 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast.
21 Square up from
—
55 Shape side body reducing 34 inch near Y, inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13.
way between B and K.
is
;
the waist
(with 1^4 inches for seams) (12^4). front of armhole. 13 Square up from
15
^
53 Square up, and
234 inches, center of Breast.
to
Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). Z is 134 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is inch less than S to X. Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 34 inch over Z. B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 334 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 34 waist on "halves"- center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 5 to 8 is 234 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. These 234 inches are for seams and make-up. G to 22 is 1^4 inches, or 134 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and Y& '"ch for every inch to
78
Draw
is
to 12.
down by
32.
J4 inch.
from 23 through 11 and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. Draw line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower 1 inch at 17. Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. Take out a fish Y& inch, 1/6 up from 15. Go out 34 from D and line parallel to 50-E. Reduce Y& inch at B from A to C. a line
;
;
ยง2
COATS
'':>^l
15
M
\\\
DIAGRAM
32
- SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK
COATS
16
DIAGRAM
33
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK, STOUT
ยง 2
COATS
2
§
17
Double-Breasted Frock Stout Diagram 33 The measures
9.
are taken over the Vest always.
18%
Inside sleeve
inches.
Breast
42 inches.
Waist
AOyi inches.
Hip or
43 inches.
seat
Strap
13>4 inches.
Over shoulder
19 inches.
Corpulent
degree.
1
Form and
Blade (with l^^ inches for seams added) 14 inches.
Depth of scye 9-yi Natural Waist 17j/
44 Draw a
inches.
45
19 inches.
Full length
41 inches.
Height
5
Sizes,
40
to
10 inches.
ft.
48 breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from 4. 2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3^j inches (10^). 3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3J-^ inches (lO^^). 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 6 A to C is one-fourth height, and inch for length. 1
^
7
A
to
8
D
to 50
9
A
to
10
F
is
D
the fashion waist
is
;
K
inches.
Fashion waist
Attitude, normal.
one-fourth height and
V
11
12
154 inches, line from
is
A
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and to H is half the full breast measure.
H
to I
B
to
4.
54 These 55
G
17
half
to
M
V/i inches
P
20
A Q
21
is
5^ inch
Q is 1/12 R is 1^
to
to
—width of Back.
62
22 (Corp.)
—
4 inches
K
T
to
1^
is
inches;
24 Square up from 25 V is located on 26
Draw
lines
U
to
lines
from S
to
T
U
to
inch.
29
X Y
is 1/^
X
size
above
shown by
the shoulder point.
and 4 through to V and A to K.
inch on the
S-U
line
at point
—or
1
U.
line
is
style.
33
The
34
G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. N is the same width as 50 to G, and Draw a line from G to N and from 49 to G for width of Back over breast line.
35
36 37
C
to
E
to
38 49
is
on
F-V and A-K
39 Blade fullness
is
%
over the blade.
41
inch.
'/<
is
1/12 breast and
y
is
breast;
A
to
line
R
B
and
to 16.
at I
;
square forward.
from 19 to I and the amount from K to 3. line
5.
breast.
to
inches,
is
draw
a straight line
a line a line
67 20 to 26
is
;
—
from 13 to 24 Shape from 13 from K through 20 to 26.
2y, inches
68 Shape lapel through
;
I
to J
26—J
is
to 25.
3>4 inches.
to 25. ;
71 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 72 Skirt— Square both ways from 23 for a close skirt, or go up from 32 a J/> inch for medium skirt.
75 23 to 12
77
Draw
is
1/3 breast, and
'-4
inch.
1>^ inches; 11 to 27
is J4 inch. a line from 23 through 11 and 14.
76 12 to 11
is
1 inch from 23. more than D to E. 80 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 81 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 82 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K.
78 14
is
natural waist, and
79 23 to bottom
Draw
is
J4 inch
line 14 to 7;
shape bottom; lower
1
inch at 17.
84 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist from D and line parallel to 50-E. 85 Go out
lines.
Apply strap measure and 1 inch in normal attitude will meet
inch
^{>
draw
—Advance Add J4 inch rounding over the or 20 2 Rever— 19 (Corp.)
Draw 66 Draw
83
inch over the rounding.
40 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from
and 8
to 22,
%
Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. 74 Flare— At 23 go up ^s inch and square down by 32.
>4 inch
yi inch is for fullness held in
P
to C,
73
the same.
from the O-M line. 31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch to A, in normal attitude will meet line A.
30
G
10 to 35 is J4 in. draw line from 13 to 25. 69 (Corp.) 70 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a F at 36.
1/12 breast.
K
and lower
y> inch,
to 18
65
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at
V
—
is
V— locating from U, F
;
through 5-9; straighten >4 inch at 20. 64 10 to 24 is 2J4 in. 10 to 25 the same sweep by 20.
shaded part. 23
smaller than the breast.
is
;
^
out in the underarm cut as
is
to 13.
than breast; to straighten the front
less
run, take
63
— on
"12ths," and Square up to S, Advance from K, 1/16 inch each breast
inches.
and makeup.
lyi
is
down to 23 23 is 5^ inch below the fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y.
59
18 Square up to O, and 19
22
1/6 breast.
is
for seams
inches are
the waist
61
down to P. from line O-M. Square down
K
inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and ]/» inch for every inch
to
60 18 to 19
way between B and K.
is
1.
X.
inch near Y, }i inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13.
is
is
2%
58 Shape side body reducing
K—
L L
to
—
214 inches; 9 to 10
is
57 Measure waist net
2}i inches, center of Breast. blade (with 1% inches for seams) (14). 15 Square up from front of armhole. 16
S
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure.
53 5 to 8
is
K
through Z to point
inch less than
56 Square up, and
B
14
%
—
half between 4 and B, for fronf shoulder height.
13
is
;
through 50 to E.
the Full Length of Back.
is
V
from
line
to point 1
46 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 47 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >i in. over Z. 48 B to 2 is >S breast on "halves" 2 to is 3>4 inches. 49 This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 51 4 to 5 is i/^ waist on "halves" center of waist. 52 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front
iy2 inches (19).
E
W
42 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to and to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (20). 43 Z is 154 inches from line K.
to
K
W.
to
4-V (14>4).
V
^ %
inch at 86 Reduce 87 The opening at 25
B from A is
to C.
equal to the opening at 10.
88 Take out J4 inch in the
V
at 36.
line.
1
§2
COATS
18
Corpulent Frock Diagram 34 Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always.
10.
48 inches
Blade (with lj4 inches for seams added) 15^ inches
SOyi inches
10>4 inches
19%
Inside sleeve
Breast
Waist
Hip or
inches
Depth of scye
Strap
14.1.4
inches
Fashion waist
Over shoulder
20;'<4
inches
Full length
Form
aiK
\ttitu(le,
19^
normal.
inches
41 inches
6 feet
Height
3 degrees
Corpulent
18 inches
waist
Natural
49 inches
seat
Sizes.
44 to 52 breasts.
To Draft. 1
Square both ways from
4.
B
is
1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3j^ inches (11).
B
to 3
is
1/3 breast of height, and Syi inches.
4
A
is
5
This
is
6
C
7
A A
8
D
to 50
9
A
to
10
F
is
1
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and
2 4 to 3
way between
half
to
B
13
H
14
B
to
16
L
is
17
L
to
inches, line
H
allowances.
is
K
is
M
19
P
20
A Q
21
is
is
O, and down to P.
from Line O-M.
"4 inch
Q to R
to
is
is
Square down
Square up
22 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each less it
to 13.
1/12 breast— on "12Tiis," and 1>4 inches.
to S, size
^
K
to
than breast; to straighten the front run, take
out in the underarm cut as shown by shaded
T
\' is
T
1>^ inches;
U
to
located on lines
to
U
V—locating the U and 4.
shoulder point.
from
34
C E
to
inch
G
is
N
is
is
for fullness held in over the blade.
1/16 breast and
\%
inches.
same width as 50 to G. and J/2 36 Draw a line from G to N and from 37 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 38 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 35
to
the
39 Blade fullness •11
is
^
;
draw
line
S
K
to
V
to
1.
X.
Draw
;
—
—
53 5 to 8
2 inches
is
;
9 to 10
1/6 breast.
is
54 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 55 G to 22 is 1% inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and ys inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast.
55 Square up, and
down
to
23
;
23
is
^
inch below the
or sweep from the Back by Y.
;
G
to C,
P
to 22,
and 8
to 16.
inch at 58 Shape side body reducing J4 inch near Y, breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13.
59
V
to 18
is
Advance
62
Add
from B
square forward from 18 by K. draw line from 19 to I and 5. amount from K to 3.
1/12 breast
;
14 breast;
is
61
at
the
I
54 inch rounding over the breast.
63 Take out the shaded part under the arm. 64 Rever— 19 to 20 is 3^ inches, or draw a straight line
through 5-9; straighten yi inch at 20. 10 to 25 the same sweep by 20. is 2^ inches
65 10 to 24
Draw 67 Draw 66
;
a line
a line is
;
from 13 to 24. Shape from 13 from K through 20 to 26.
2%
inches
;
I to
72 73
74 75
76
3>^ inches.
—
78 79
80 82
Draw
lyi inches; 11 to 27
is
^4 inch.
a line
line 14 to 7;
85 Square
87
is
32.
from 23 through 11 and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 23 to bottom is % inch more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K.
84 Draw
W.
is
to 25.
is 3/2 inch; draw line from 13 to 35. Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a V at 36. Advance 23 the amount of V and seams at 36. For a close skirt rise at 32 a Yz inch. Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. Flare At 23 go up ^ inch and square down by 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and yi inch.
77 12 to 11
83
to
J
to 25.
70 10 to 35
81 inch.
inch over the rounding.
Shape the Back as shown
and
a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi inch over Z. B to 2 is >2 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3^ inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. .50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. on "halves" center of waist. 51 4 to 5 is >4 waist 52 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist, and to check the blade measure.
71
^
1/2
to point
inch less than
—J
—
The
^
is
1
69 Shape lapel through 26
1/12 breast.
is
26 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X j4 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 29 X is y> inch on the S-U line or Style. 30 Y is J4 inch from the O-M line. 31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and inch (11) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 33
to point
68 20 to 26
is
24 Square up from 25
V
inch.
above 4 inches
part.
23
Z is 1^ inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z
60 18 to 19
114 inches— width of Back. to
R
^
way between B and K.
up
44 45 46 47 48 49
57 Measure waist net
2^4 inches, center of Breast.
K—
18 Square
43
fashion waist
blade (with lj4 inches for seams) (15J/2). 15 Square up from front of armhole. half
to
W
4.
measure (24).
A
K
through 50 to E.
for front shoulder height.
inch
1
(15^4) ' nnormal attitude will meet line 4-V. and 42 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (21^54).
Back (41).
half the full breast
is
I
II,
A
from
the Full length of
is
half between 4 and
to
all
(19^)-
1^
is
E
to
4.
the fashion waist; one- fourth height and
is
iy2 inches
12
and
one-fourth height, and ^4 inch for length.
is
D
to
3
the proportional, and includes
41 Apply strap measure and
Go
down
out J/ from
88 Reduce
%
shape bottom; lower
1
inch at 17.
the front edge to 7, by the waist line.
D
inch at
and
line parallel to 50-E.
B from
A
to C.
COATS
DIAGRAM
34
- DOUBLE-BREASTED
19
FROCK, CORPULENT
COATS
20
DIAGRAM
35
— MILITARY FROCK
§2
COATS
21
Military Frock Diagram 35 The measures
11.
17%
are taken over the Vest always.
44 Apply over shoulder measure and
K
Breast
36 inches.
Waist
31 inches.
seams added) 12>^ in. Depth of scye 8% inches.
Z; when normal, meet 45 Z is lj4 inches from line K. 46 Draw a line from V through Z
il inches.
Natural waist
47
Inside sleeve
Hip or
seat
Strap
1^
Blade (with
inchee.
XbYz inches
17^
Fashion waist
\2Y2 inches.
inches for
Over shoulder 17 inches. Full length Normal erect 1 degree. Height 5 ft. Form and Attitude, erect. Sizes, ZZ to 42
inches.
34 inches. 6 inches.
1
B
or
3
B
to 3 is 1/3 breast of height,
4
A
is
half
way between
and
3^
5
This
is
the proportional, and includes
A
to
C
is
7
A
to
inches.
all
allowances.
one-fourth height, and ^4 inch of curve of
Back (16^4).
D
to 50
13
H
to I
14
B
to
is
inches, line
1;>^
is 2y-2
K
inches, center of Breast.
blade (with I14 inches for seams) iliy^).
—
Square up from K front of armhole. 16 L is half way between B and K. 17 L to is V/a, inches— width of Back.
down
18 Square up to O, and 19
P
20
A to Q Q to R K to T is
23
J^ inch
Square down
to
13.
—
on 'T2ths," and is 1/12 breast is Xy^ inches. Square up to S,
\' is
29 30 31
32
^
1>^ inches
U
;
T
to
U
is
V—locating the from U and 4.
to
located on lines
inch.
1/12 breast. shoulder point.
Draw
X is % inch on the S-U Line—or Y is 54 inch from the O-M Line. Draw guide line from X to Y. From B up The
34
C
to
G
35
E
to
N
36
Draw
37 49 to 38 49
is
over Z.
in.
22 is 1% inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and y^ inch for every inch
to
the waist
is
58 S(iuare up, and
smaller than the breast.
down
fashion waist
;
to 23 23 is 5^ inch below the or sweep from the Back by Y. ;
59 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. inch at 60 Shape side body reducing ^4 i"ch near Y, breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 61 V to 18 is 1/12 breast square forward from 18 by K.
^
is is
62 18 to 19
Style.
apply depth of scye measure and J^ inch
G
N
and from G for width of Back over breast-line. on F-V and A-K lines. to
34 breast;
draw
line
from 19
to
is
Yi inch over the rounding.
40 Obtain point S from A 41 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. 42 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V (13^^) in normal attitude will meet line 4-V. 43 Go back from K-V line as much as above line V-4,
and shape A, S to X.
inches,
much from
line
U.
5.
draw
a straight line
1
line.
•
Square forward by
74 Take
ofif
^
line
6 through 24 to 25.
inch of Lapel and y% inch of forepart
for opening above point 10.
75
The
inside line of Lapel should be
rounded 34 inch
than the forepart rounding. 76 In shaping the gorge for erect, the curve must come less
out to the original or normal curve, which and 18. inch from the junction of lines
17
is
U
%
The suppression
at
16— P
is
%
inch with springs
added to forepart to produce hip fullness. 78 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams (1 in.). 79 The opening of skirt below 13 is 1 inch square down by 23. 80 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch.
;
or Vz as
and
straighten Yz inch at 20.
;
;
39 Blade fullness
I
over the breast.
;
1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. the same width as 50 to G, and Yz inch.
a line from
is
inches; 10 to 25 the same and 1 inch. 66 Draw a line from 13 to 10. Shape from 13. 67 Draw a line from 19 through 20 to 26. 68 20 to 26 is 5 inches rise at 26 a 34 inch. 69 Shape Lapel through 26— J to 25. 70 Draw a line from center of breast through 6. 71 Take out a 34 inch on each side; square down. 72 The V extends up half way between breast and waist
77>
(9>4) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade.
33
^
—
—
through 5 65 10 to 24 is 2;
lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X v^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
26
1.
X.
to
;
Add 34 inch rounding 64 Rever— 19 to 20 is 2
to P.
from Line O-M.
24 Square up from 25
3^ breast
is
63
M
21
S
;
is
15
is
to 2
(17K0-
from A through 50 to E. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (34). 10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
D
55
B
the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
is
inch
1
8
54
3 and 4.
6
to point
inch less than
G
53
(9^).
^
57
4.
1/3 breast on "3ia)s" and Zyi inches
is
is
W and
(18).
56
52
A
Square both ways
1
to
F-V
on "halves" 2 to K is 3>^ inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. .Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 3^ waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 5 to 8 is 2 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. These 2 inches are for seams and make-up.
50
To Draft. 2 4 to
to point
B
inch
1
line
48 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 49 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 51
breasts.
V
to
81 12 to 11
82
Draw
is
2 inches; 11 to 27
is
%
inch.
a line from 23 through 11 and 14.
83 14
is
natural waist, and
84 23
to
bottom
is
34 inch
1 inch from more than D
23.
to E.
85 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom.
86 Shape
skirt
through 27 to bottom.
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 88 Draw line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower 1 inch at 17. 89 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. 87
;
;
91
§2
COATS
22
Go
D
out Yz from
92 Reduce J4 inch
and
at
line parallel to
B from A
50-E.
93 The bars for the shoulder epaulette 'are placed even with a line drawn from point V to the back notch,
and is 1 inch from edge of gorge and armhole. 94 The buttons are placed 1 inch from edge of Lapel. 95 Full information regarding other details is furnished by the government upon request. 96 Hooks to hold the belt are inserted seam and one in front seam.
to C.
the
in
waist
Cassock Diagram 36 The measures are taken over the Vest always. sleeve 17^ inches Blade (with 1^ inches for
12.
Inside
2)7
Breast
36 inches 32 inches
seams added) Depth of scye
12^/2 inches
Waist Hip or
37 inches
Natural waist
I6J/2
Strap
12 inches
Fashion waist
18j4 inches
39
Over shoulder
17 inches
I'^ull
58 inches
40
6 inches
41
42 breasts.
42
seat
length
Height
Form and
Attitude, normal.
9 inches
5 feet
Sizes, 33 to
43
To Draft.
44
Square both ways from A. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 31/2 inches (9>4). 3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 5
A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
6
D
to
7
A
to
8
F
is
11
H
4
38
inches
1
45
46 47
48
V/z inches (IS-^).
SO
is
E
is
3 inches for box pleat.
Length of Back, 58 inches. and B, for front shoulder height. 9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 12
B
the Full
half between
to to
is 2]/4
I
K
A
15
L L
17
P
is
18
A
to
is
blade (with ly^ inches for seams) up from K front of armhole. half way between B and K.
—
M
is 1J4 inches to 16 Square up to O, and
19
20
Q Q to R is K to T is
down
V
22)
Draw
is
U
from S
T
to
27
X is Y is
28
Draw
26
X
J^ inch,
Yi inch on the J/2
29 From
guide line
is
1/12 breast.
S-U Line
at point 1 the same.
— or Style.
O-M Line, from X to Y.
32 33
34 35
57
58
and 1/6 up from M.
inches.
down ;
to 23
63
64 65
Draw
is
5^ inch below the
G
to C,
P
Y
to 22,
and 8
to 16.
inch near Y,
from 2
^
inch at
to 13
is
Y
inch.
from 47 through 27 to 48. 47 to 48 is a 3/^ inch more than 46 to N. This is provided no height measure is at hand. Z to 7 equal Z to E on line K and 1 inch. Measure width of Bottom from N to 45 and from 7 to 48, total 58 inches, or of height.
%
A
is 1
is 1
inch, I to J is 1^4 inches.
inch; finish front.
standing collar, cut as military, reaching to within a K' inch of 19.
69 Pleat pockets are inserted, 10 inches down to the X. skirt is slightly
the hip fullness
58.
71 If no seam
72 Buttons for pleat.
23
line
66 19 to 20 68
;
or sweep from the Back by Y.
Y
70 The
C
Add 3 inches for box pleat to D-45. Draw line from 46 to N, add 2 inches
1%
is
and 16, and 23 to 13. V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 18 to 19 is Draw a line from 10 through 13 to 47. Square down from 47 to 12; 12 to 11 is lJ/$ inches.
67 5 to 6
for fullness held in over the blade.
to G is 1/16 breast and 2 inches. E to N is K' breast, or 1/6 lengtli of E to 45 is the same. Draw lines.
22
59 11 to 27
60 62
Jieight of shoulders.
and lower
to
53 Measure waist net
61
apply depth of scye measure and Y2 inch (9'/j) to A in normal attitude will meet line A.
31
G
52 Square up, and
the shoulder point.
B up
is
51
56
from L' and A. U and F to V.
inch from the
30 The Y' '"ch
5 to 8 is 2J4 inches, 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 50 These 2Ya inches are for seams and make-up.
55 13.
to
24 This gives the proportional 25 Rise at
U
V —locating
to
located on lines lines
49
breast line and
—
V/. inches;
—
—
54 .Shape side body reducing
to P.
from Line O-M. Square down to 1/12 breast on "12tiis," and 1J4 inches. Square up to S, 5^ inch.
21 Square up from
22
(12j/i).
—width of Back.
J^ inch is
;
fashion waist
is
;
W
inches, center of breast.
13 Square
14
draw line from B to W. Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V (13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. and Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). Z is 1^ inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. Draw a gfuide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding Y^ mz\\ over Z. B to 2 is J/2 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3^ inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is ^ waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of waist, and to check the blade measure.
36 Shape the Back as shown
72)
One
1^
is
curved
at
32
more on the
in
order to distribute
side.
cut across, trace the sidebody.
inches apart, 33 in number.
for every year of the Lord.
COATS
V*-^,â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
P -S'^t-^*^
23
24
COATS
ยง2
§2
COATS
25
Clerical Frock Diagram 37 The measures are taken over the
13.
Breast
36 inches
Blade (with l^ inches for seams added) 1 2 >< inches
Waist
32 inches
Depth of scye
Jiiside sleeve
Hip or
17;>4
inches
27 inches
Natural waist
16%
12 inches
Fashion waist
\8j4 inches
Over shoulder
17 inches
Full length
Attitude, normal.
5 feet
inches
6 inches
A
Square both ways from
B
B
to 3 is
A
is
half
This
8
is
is
or
4.
4.
^
all
C
is
one- fourth height, and
D
is
the fashion waist; one-fourth height and
D
inches (,1814 J. to 50 is lj4 inches, line from
A
to
A
through 50
H
to 1 is
14
B
to
K
;
G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. body reducing j4 inch near Y, inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. \' to 18 is 1/12 breast; .square forward from 18 by K. 18 to 19 is j4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 19 to 20 is 134 inches; I to J is the same.
56 Measure waist net
Shape height.
half the full breast measure.
is
2j^ inches, center of breast (18). is blade (with 1^ inches for seamsj
17
L
M
to
18 Square 19
P
20
A Q K
21
22
^
is
is
1^
up
to
inches
— width of
5 to
inch from line
R is iy2 inches. T is lyi inches; T
1/12 breast
23 Square up from
U
Square down
O-M.
to
to
Back.
to
Square up to
U
is
to 13.
\' is
1/12 breast.
V— locating
the shoulder point.
from U and A. from S to U, F to V, and
25
Draw
lines
A
to
28 29 30 31
X Y
is
J^ inch
is
^
on the S-U
inch from the
line
O-M
—or
19>2
(
j
to
32 The >1 inch
G N
33
C
to
34
E
to
3S
Draw
36 49 to 37 49
is
is
is
A,
is
in
meet
will
1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. same width as 50 to G, and
1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 134 inches; 11 to 27
is
inch.
is -'4
34 inch
line 14 to 7
;
shape bottom
fish 3^ inch,
out 34 from
Reduce
inch.
from G to N and from G for width of Back over breast-line. on F-V and A-K lines. is
^
D and
Vs inch at
;
lower
7.
1
inch at 17.
by the waist
1/6 up from
line.
15.
line parallel to 30-E.
B from
A
to C.
Knight Templar Coat
inch over the rounding. ;
draw
line
W
K to Z; when 1J4 inches
normal, meet
from
line
K.
line
F-V
(18).
This coat
12.
from B to W. 40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V (13), in normal attitude will meet line A-V. and 41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to 39 Shape the Back as shown
is
yi inch and .square
a.
a line
38 Blade fullness
42 Z
32
a line from 23 through 11 and 14.
Take out a
Go i/j
inches in the collar.
Square down the front edge to
A.
for fullness held in over the blade.
the
l'/,
rise at
natural waist, and
is
Draw
inch
'/j
line
to 10.
finished with 7 holes to the waist.
1 inch from 23. more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K.
Style.
normal attitude
is
23 to bottom
line.
Draw guide line from X to Y. From B up apply depth of scye measure and
is
12 to 11
14
the same.
1
23 to 12
Draw
K.
26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise a.tX yi inch, and lower at point
is
Making an opening of l'"or medium full skirt, down by 23.
to S, y& inch.
located on lines
24
front
collar is cut on the military style (see collars) and is 1 inch high finished, and a '4 inch back from 19.
—on "12ths," and
Q
is
The The
O, and down to P.
to
^
side
6 is 134 inches; square down. Shape the front and fore part from 13
(12,'/2).
—
Square up from K front of armhole. 16 L is half way between B and K. 15
^
Square up, and down to 23 23 is inch below the fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y.
I'/z
to E.
1'"
to
22 is 1% inches, or 134 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and 'yi inch for every inch tlie waist is smaller than the breast.
inch for length.
the Full
is
B
—
to
allowances.
to
H
1.
X.
to
G
and
3
to
13
S
way between
the proportional, and includes
12
to point
5 to 8 is 214 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up.
A A
E
through Z
}i inch less than
1/3 breast on "3rds"' and 3/2 inches (9>^). 1/3 breast of height, and 3}^ inches.
Length of Back. 10 is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder 11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 9
is
—
To Draft. 4 to
1
a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arni-scye and shoulder rounding '/, inch over Z. 15 to 2 is y. breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3/2 inches. 'i'his is normal blade and independent of the actual blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 3/2 waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist, and to check the blade measure.
33 to 42 breasts.
.Sizes,
V
a line from
point
Draw
38 inches
Height
Form and
\' to
9 inches
.^trap
seat
Draw
always.
\ est
is
drafted the
With a medium flare 2 The front is finished 1
same
like a clerical,
stand for buttcjns in front and
The 4 The 3
collar is the
same
skirt has a side
as a Frock Coat.
skirt.
1 1
with 13S inches holes.
as a military.
edge or sash, about 2/3 the length
down, and a button
at each end.
— COATS
26
Sleeves The Sleeve.— The sleeve forms a much more 14. important part of coat cutting than is generally accorded If the coat is otherwise well cut, an it by most cutters.
that is
Sleeve In
The
gram tion
it
A
3.
and prove every point and
study of this dia-
obtained
if
when attached to The same result
Sleeve.
—The
intersecting lines at
G
this system,
sleeves are
too
much
from B
By
journeyman from the sleeve or the armhole. ing the top sleeve
— Reversing the sleeve,
The Elbow.
to
laying point
R
line even.
— The elbow of the sleeve should
be on the waist line of the coat breast and 4J4 inches from meet point 13, or the
N
M-O
sleeve,
when
the width should be
;
to
%
The % breast should The width of the top
I.
line.
reversed, should meet point 6 on front
and
The cuff of the run through point J on breast line. undersleeve should meet line 44-17. 44 is half way be-
by the revers-
tween
location of the notch proves itself
tlie
R
to J is also Ys sleeve.
O, keeping breast
to
20.
whether Coats, Vests or Trousers. drawn to C from J, producing
cloth opposite C, necessitating a cutting
caused
undersleeve has
of the undersleeve to G, the rim should follow the line
stationary or fixed points, never to movable points, holds
all
Proof.
19.
B to O and A through M to K; the actual measure from C to G. The height is established by the lines G-V and O-M. The front run should end at B, not at C. The Rule that all lines should be drawn to 17. lines
Nearly
—The
This brings the location of
A
from G.
ys sleeve
are obtained from three directions— by the proportional
throughout
Undersleeve.
coat back of the arm.
drafted without the coat.
The Top
16.
line.
the notch, which brings the run
18.
proper position and the rela-
holds to the coat, as drafted, or
In half-and-half sleeve a seam
C and
more trouble and worry than most any other part of the garment. The run of the undersleeve should be on a line drawn from point S through Y continued to C. It certainly should follow the armhole, because there is where If a sleeve it must come to when sewed onto the coat. run is away from Y when drafted, it will pull on the coat when sewed in, causing breaks and wrinkles on the.
Co.\t.
— Diagram
will clearly indicate its
the coat, is
Test.
exactly }i inch.
to its natural position.
improperly cut sleeve, or badly balanced in the hang, will pull the coat and distort it from its proper position.
15.
it is
added between
B and M.
Sleeve— Diagram 38 1
'J'he
front notch on the coat
is
}i inch up from the
15
Mark
breast line always.
2 The back notch
is
on
F
line
To Draft.
always.
16 Cut off a piece of paper large enough for a pair of
3 Measure from the front notch over the shoulder to
sleeves
the back notch for the upper sleeve.
under the arm to the hack notch over seams.
8
On
size.
Overcoats do not measure fullness or drapery.
9 Inside sleeve length, 17'
Upper
sleeve, 9j/> inches
11
Total,
18 inches
12
The
—the
;
under
sleeve,
8^
is
and 31 inches
The
B
to
22
D
to
23
F
is
19'/4
;
that
is,
to the elbow,
full length.
outside sleeve measure
the wrist bone while the
I
is
taken to
arm
is
in a
C
Draw
30
G
to
F
bent position,
33
The
To
is lJ/2
(17^).
inches
cuff.
G
E
and
F.
the upper sleeve measure
is
(9^).
a line
L
is
;
—
G
from
to
K, locating L.
height of sleeve to
from line A. 31 Shape the upper sleeve from 32
face.
the inside sleeve length
—back length of half way between A and E — the elbow. E
29
the elbow even height with the shoulder, and the
hand about 7 inches in front of the length seams must be added.
is
diagonally to
inch beyond
1
D
^
one-fourth height and
7 inches for width of back,
line
inches
26 Square down from G to H. 27 A to J is sleeve draw a line from J to B. 28 B to K is 1/3 drafting size on "3rds" (6).
inches.
drafting size for the sleeve.
length of inside sleeve
1J4 inches. 13 The outside length should read 7-\9y2-3\
14
21
25
inches.
10
1 J/$
24 Square out from A, B, C, D,
inches; cuff width, 12'/2
i
with a sharp crease.
—
6 Syi inches for a 36 breast. 7 Always follow the edge of the pattern with the tape
measuring for sleeve
it
away from you, and draw a
from edge of fold as from A to E. 18 22. The Top Sleeve.— Square from A back to G. 19 A to B is F to B on Coat— half depth of scye (4-^4). 20 B to C is ^ inch always ^the front notch. about
the
all
and fold
17 Place fold edge
4 9K' inches for a 36 breast. 5 21. Measure the under sleeve from front notch
line in
the measures on the sleeve paper before draft-
ing.
to
N
is
^
distance
over elbow
this
all
34
D
to
normal
P
is
inch
H to N to I
I
;
from
—J4
is is
breast and
M.
G
or
to
M
M
is
and
1/12 sleeve
J to B.
the same. the width of the sleeve
4^
inches ahvays for
sizes.
J4 inch.
Shape from B through
N
to P.
— COATS
§ 2
35
to
i'
y
is
>2 width of sleeve cult, including seams
27
03 The sleeve fur an Uvercoat
is measured and drafted same way as for an Undercoat from measures. 65 28. Overcoat Sleeve. Diagram represents an Undercoat sleeve and an Overcoat sleeve made from an Undercoat sleeve. 66 Draw a line from B through G and add 1 inch. 67 Lines B and G must be same height as B-F on Over-
the
36 37
—
Draw a line from P to Q. To make the seams come to prevent folds
even over the elbow and
running diagonally from head of which will happen to all sleeves
sleeve to elbow,
where the upper sleeve meets the under sleeve
at
or near the elbow
coat.
Go out 3-2 inch from I to O for upper sleeve. 39 Go in 3<^ inch from I to H for under sleeve. 40 Draw guide line from G to O and O to Q. 38
68
Add
70
Add
inch to width at hand, and shape side seam. 69 Shape top rounding from G to B; add yi inch to
42 23. The Under Sleeve.— G to R is i^ sleeve. 43 Draw line from R to K. 44 Shape under-arm curve from R to front notch at C. 45 Allow two seams or j,^ inch back of R and shape
H
If
it
is
and not
to
show
it
in front,
same amount
to
Box Under
Sleeve.
under
sleeve.
— Diagram 40
— (Dia.j — First
regular undef sleeve and cut
sleeve, because they
it
more
proceed as explained
in
—
To Change the Inseam. Allow -4 inch more on the upper sleeve and take off the same amount of under sleeve, from line B, N. P, as follows: 49 From B to S, N to T and P to U is J4 inch for the upper sleeve; draw guide line and shape. inch for the and P to X is 50 From B to V, N to under sleeve draw guide line and shape.
48 24.
W
as
indicated on the diagram by the letters R, V,
X
Mark
B
amount of drapery, 1 inch or more. X and swing it over to B. 74 Shape from B to X the broken line shows the posi72
at
the
^
;
tion.
75
Remove
the pattern and
fill
in the
The Pattern
76 The shaded part represents the box sleeve. 77 The top sleeve is the same as regular Overcoat
52
The under Turn
;
also the notch at C.
layer becomes the top sleeve; use
V
shape by, from 53
cut through both papers after
is
to
X, and
Q
to
to get the length.
the paper around, place the
even with
it
and get the length
now upper
sleeve
two seams back
to
of R.
The
length will always be about j4 inch above line A. 55 Shape the run of seam through elbow.
54
56 Cut out the under sleeve and compare with top sleeve.
57 26.
The Seams.
— Both
the front and side seams
always should run straight as far up as the cuf? reaches.
58
The run
of the top sleeve at the
straight
from
under sleeve 59 27.
Q
P, to
to
Narrow Shoulders.
row shoulders, the shoulders
Q
hollowed from
is
—To
rise at
are
gradually from
G
M
less
to
cutif;
than
M
the
X.
the sleeve to nar-
a J4 inch, or the
through
Overcoat Sleeve
fit
hand should be
the shirt
fit
normal, and
amount shape
to B.
— Diagram
39
60 The upper sleeve, \0}2 inches for a 36 breast. 61
The under
sleeve,
62 Length, }< inch; coat.
9^
inches.
Total, 20 inches.
cuff, lyi inches
scye about a
%
inch.
;
the upper sleeve
on
it
all
73 Pivot the pattern at
the next paragraph.
51 25.
around
the
it
and Q.
under the arm
in
make
out; place
another piece of paper and mark
desired to change the seams, especially the
front seam, so as to bring
the
Box Undersleeve 71 29.
are cut of equal size, or in half.
47
,
length.
41 Shape, and finish top sleeve as represented.
through to Q. 46 This is called the half-and-half
^^
more than under-
Diagram 38
— Sleeves
sleeve.
§2
COATS
28
y. i Jo
-->^a
e:
Diagram 39
Diagram 41
— Overcoat
— Raglan
Sleeve
Coat with Sleeve
Diagram 40
— Box
Undersleeve
Diagram 42 — Raglan Sleeve
—
:
—
:
COATS
§ 3
PART THREE
Raglan Coat Diagram 41 7S 30.
The Raglan Coat
Diagram 42
drafted the
is
Box
Overcoats, either the
same
as other
1U2 34. Represents the same sleeve drafted separately.
or Chesterfield effect,
103 iMnish the Raglan sleeve the same as an ordinary Overcoat sleeve; then proceed as follows:
as desired.
79
To
prepare for the sleeves, proceed as follows;
80 The front notch
A
104 Extend the lines
always 94 i"ch up from the breast
is
and
105 Apply the back length,
line.
81
The back notch
82
Draw
always on
is
line F, for
sweep forward
drafting pur-
106 3 to 7
poses. a straight Hue
from S
Y, or the inside run
to
2 inches; draw a line from 7 to G.
is
C
(11/2), from
of the armhole.
108 4 to 8
84 26 to 27
109 Square up from
l^i inches.
is
86
Draw
V
a line from
See diagram.
88 28 to 29
V
90
Move
the
from 91
V
and 112
Jj inch or
more
part represents the cut-off.
arm
at
115 35.
L
width
to 6, less
The
meet 116
across
Test.
—A
including fullness or
not
ways
gives three
it
C
4 to
to
G
Box Under
Coat, draft imder sleeve as
shown
"Box
in
119 Third, by the shoulder width to
on sweep
Sleeve."
98 Measure the
from
distance
S
straight line to
the
back
121
straight line to
V— 10J4
in
To Draft. 10^ inches.
Upper sleeve, Under sleeve, 9j^ inches. Depth of scye, B to F, 5^ Front length,
10^
154 inches
from
^
inch
draw
;
a line to L.
the straight line.
125
The shoulder back notch
a notch JX inch
is
squared
The curved
up from 9 and is
on
from the
in
at 29.
W,
line
and the sleeve
straight line to 7.
line is yi inch in.
7
to
G
and front sleeve
through 9 to B. 127 This completes the diagram.
The shaded
part repre-
sents the sleeve.
100 Diagram Represents the sleeve without any shoulder
seam, the position as drafted in the coat and the is
is
Make
inches.
it
off
a line from 8 to L, and shape.
126 Shape back sleeve from
length, 7; 4 inches.
on which
mark
;
inch to 7 for two seams (and the 3^ inch
notch
inches.
6.
N
from 8 for two seams, and draw
line
124
Inside length, 18^4 inches.
principle
Draw
123 9
Diagram 41
pivot at
lowered from point V) 122
Raglan Sleeve
%
Add
a
inches.
8,
a line to B.
notch in a
7}i inches.
99 Measure the distance from the front notch
Back
120 Sweep forward from
5.
to 3 to 5.
drapery.
97 If a
to test the accu-
racy of the measures, or check them
118 Second, by the length from
pattern,
sleeve
sweep forward from 6 should
117 First, by the length from
the
drawn on top of
line
96 In measuring armhole for sleeve always follow the of
V
inch for two seams.
j/2
95 9y2 inches for a 36 breast Overcoat.
edge
shoulders from
the
8.
be noted
It will
back notch, including seams
to
line.
moved forward,
a line across the top of sleeve at L.
113 Measure the
inches for a 36 breast Overcoat.
94 32. Measure under sleeve from front notch under the
to 6.
way between B and G
114 Apply this amount to the
upper sleeve
for the
through 5
through Z.
—
10^
5.
forms would be farther back.
in erect
Draw
92 31. Measure for Sleeve. From front notch over the shoulder through point 1 to the back notch, 93
N half
is
111 In stooping forms this line would be
1.
through 29 to the notch.
seam down in the gorge and re-shape to 29.
The shaded
N
110 In normal
1>4 inches.
is
89 Shape from
4 and sweep back to
to
2 inches.
is
to the front of armhole.
87 Square by this line from 28 to point
and
to 5.
107 Apply the front length, 10^4 inches, and l^^ inches
83 Square out from this line from 26 to X. 85 Shape from S through 27 to Y.
G upwards to 4 and 3. 7% inches, from G to 3
based, namely
:
To
128
The shaded try-on,
if
part on the Coat can be left on for the
Medium wadding
desired.
is
provided
obtain for.
the required length over the shoulder. 101
The broken
lines represent the pieces as cut off
from
the coat and placed in position to get the length; or, in other
from
V
words, the width across the shoulder
to Z, less
This style of sleeve because
it
is
mark
two seams. is
not used
The
much
at present,
nearly impossible to get the square
shoulder effect desired at the present date.
Split
129 36. Split Sleeve.
and
—
Raglan Sleeve If it is
center line half
at line
desired to split the sleeve
way between P-Q and N-I
N.
130 Allow a seam or more on each side and shape as
shown on diagram.
S 3
COATS
Chesterfield Diagram 43 are taken over N'est always.
The measures
1.
36 inches.
Blade (with \}i inches for seams added) 12>4 inches.
32 inches.
Depth of scye
\7^
Inside Sleeve
Breast
inches.
Strap
12 inches.
9 inches Natural waist 16)4 inches. 37 inches. Full length
Over shoulder
17 inches.
Height
Waist
Hip or
37 inches.
seat
5
Sizes, 33 to
F'orm and attitude, normal.
ft.
6 inches.
42 breasts.
In drafting overcoats, the same measures are used as taken over the vest for an undercoat. In applying the measures, obtain all points the same as for an undercoat, then add 1 inch which gives the allowance for the overcoat as follows:
A to
1/3 breast and 3>^ inches 9>4 proportional or actual depth of scye and '/j inch for an undercoast then add 1 inch for the overcoat, making it lOjX inches.
B
is
A
apply strap and overshoulder measure from
to
W
and from R and 3 to V and from the X above B to 3 to Z. use it as an undercoat measure, as strap 12 and I inch for seams; overshoulder 17 and 1 inch for making
X
below the
u))
The
belong to the overcoat.
and very
unscientific
it
;
will
29 30
X Y
33
The
—or
line
Style.
1/2
inch
for fullness held in over the blade.
is
from B to W. R and 3 to V in normal attitude will meet line A-V. and Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to 3 to Z when normal, meet line F-V. Z is 1J4 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. \' to point 1 is 3/ inch less than S to X. Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J/2 inch over Z. B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>4 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual
34 Shape the Back as shown 3.T Apply strap measure, and 36
draw
;
line
A
inch
1
to
W
;
37
38 39
40 41
42
;
blade.
5 is
waist
1/2
K
through 4 to
17.
—on "halves"
Add
inch.
1
The measure from B
to the
46 Square down from 5 to
to the
used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 47 5 to 8 is 2>/> inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 48 These 2y2 inches are for seams and make-up. 49 Apply hip measure and }i inch, width of Back from
itself. ]"()
S-U
from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M, 31 plus ^ inch; draw guide line from Y to P. 32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^ inch A, in normal attitude will meet line A. ( lOyi ) to >4 inch
45 4 to
—
for
inch on the
is 3/^
is
is
draft an undercoat and lay inside the overcoat, on your system and the same on this; the result
show
to
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise ntXyi inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
overcoat.
add }i inch to blade and only }4 inch depth of scye; which leaves only j4 inch addition strap, and 'j inch addition to the overshoulder/ test
from S
lines
44 Square down from
Why
from U and A. U, and F to V.
located on line
is
simply produces
make an
a larger undercoat but does not
To
Draw
43
old idea of adding 3 or 4 sizes to an undercoat
certainly illigical
try that
V
26
;
;
To
25
K,
2,
12 to
Dr.\ft.
Square both ways from A. Add 1 inch. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3^1 inches 3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3y2 inches (10>^). 4 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances.
50 11 to 12
,4
and
D is
to
5 is
and 10
1^
7.
to
Add
1 1
1
inch.
inches; square up, locating 13.
1
5
A
to
C
is
D
Add
natural waist (16^4)
54
C
7
Added
to the natural waist gives correct length.
8
A
to
E
is
y
F
is
half between
1/3 breast, on "3rds"
is
;
(6) seatline.
G
C
12 13
From the B to H is
14
H
to
l.S
B
to
to
I
is '/i
A
Add
half
L
is
Add Add Add
seams
blade, with
is
half
;
inches, center of breast
16 Square up from
17
K
to 3
is
—
21
22 23
H.
1
inch.
1
inch.
1
inch.
M
N
20
to E. to
way between B and K.
is 1J4 inches— width of Back. L to 19 Square up to O, and down to
18
P A
is J/>
to
Q
Add
1
inch.
to 14
is
the length
^
>^ inch.
E and F. draw line F to G and down just drawn inside of B measure the full breast measure (18).
inch
line
is 2;/2
K
Y
the Full Length of Back.
B and
inch from Line
1/12 breast
is
Q to R is K to T is
1
'A inches I'.i
;
;
draw
line to
T
1
inch.
N.
to
U
is
%
l-j4
from
inch over 11 to \4 1/2
57 Z to 7
length from
is
58
The
59
Draw
60
V
Y
61
18 to 19
62
Draw
in.
inch
is
—
to
line 14 to 7;
64
I
25^ inches
65
Go
66
V
in
J/2
to 16,
going out
shape bottom; lower
1
inch at 17.
forward from 18 by
Add I
and
;
5 to
6
is
1
3.
inch.
5.
19.
the same.
draw line from 6 and shape front. draw line to end of roll. 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K.
inch at 7 is
Y
2y2 inches; notch, ^4 inch from
is
to 21
inch.
to 16.
Y
a line from 19 to
63 19 to 20 is
1
or Style.
14 breast
is
and 8
N.
from
to 18 is 1/12 breast; square
to J
Add
G
to 16 when no underarm cut.) Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. taken up in making the front edge.
from
56 (Reduce
1
inches.)
;
\j4 inches;
67 The pocket
is
68 (For double-breasted add 2 inches to the front.)
"12ths," and
square up to S,
inches;
24 Square up from
O-M
—on
Add
is
a line
55 Shape side seam of forepart
10 Square out from A, B, C, D, II
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
Draw
from 13 through 11 to 14 53 Measure waist and 1J4 inches P to
52
inch.
1
6
to
51
inch.
1/12 breast.
U to V, locating the shoulder point.
69 In applying seat measure to Overcoats or any coat with flare skirt, the normal lines should be used, not the
flares.
COATS
ยง3
DIAGRAM
43
CHESTERFIELD
§3
COATS
DIAGRAM
44
— CHESTERFIELD
CORPULENT
11
COATS
§3
Chesterfield Corpulent Diagram 44 The measures
2.
Corpulent
inches.
48 inches.
Ureast
Waist
1^
14^
inches.
Natural waist
Over shoulder 20^
inches.
Full length
Strap
inches for
seams added) ISyl in. Depth of scye 10>^ inches.
49 inches.
seat
3 degree
Blade (with
bO'/z inches.
Hip or
37 Shape the Back as
are taken over the Vest always
19^
Inside sleeve
I834 inches.
42 inches.
Height
and
l-'orni
attitude, normal.
6
feet,
Sizes 42 to 52 breasts.
To Draft. 1
Square both ways from
B
2 4 to
3^
Add
inches
inch
1
B
to 3 is 1/3 breast of height,
4
A
is
5
This
6
A
to
7
C
to
8
Added
to the natural waist gives correct length.
9
A
to
is
10
F
is
half
1
between B and 4 Add ^j inch Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4.
12
C
to
G
13
From the line B to H is half
14
way between
C
E
the Full
Square up from
L L
is
half
to
M
Length of Back.
K to 3
^
P
22
A to Q
23
Q
is
to
R
is
N
is
half
is
even, or more, than the breast.
down from
line to
55 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
inch.
56
Draw
57
Y
from
59 (Reduce yi inch from
^
K
to
T
inches;
is 1^'4
27 Square up from
28
V
29
Draw
is
U
to
located on lines lines
from S
to
T
is
s.
1/12 breast.
V, locating the shoulder
from
U
U, and
and
F
point.
4.
to
V.
3
Rise at
X Y
33
is 3/^ is
X^
inch,
and lower
inch on the
yi inch
S-U
from the
line
O-N
at point
—or
line,
the same.
1
Style.
and 1-12 up from M,
plus }4 inch.
34 35
36 The
A,
in
normal attitude
Vj inch is
inches.)
Add
incli.
1
N.
Y
or Style.
Y
to
to 16, going out
when no underarm
16
^
;
inch; width of
D, and from 10 to
64 Draw
Open
11
Back from 12
Add
1
will
meet
line
J4 inch
A.
for fullness held in over the blade.
to
inch
and take out the shaded part. 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 on
line 15
at
34 by cutting to pocket and to front of pocket. inch. 66 The surplus 2>4 inches opens the pocket 67 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by 3
^
is
14 breast
Add
1
inch
69 Draw line from 19 to I and 5. 70 Advance at I the amount from K to 3. 71 19 to 20 is 254 inches notch 34 inch from 19. 72 I to J is 23/ inches, 5 to 6 is the same. 73 Go in yi inch at 7 draw line from 6 and shape front. 74 V to 21 is V/i inches; draw line to end of roll. 75 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and 34 inch from K. ;
Draw guide line from Y to P. From B up apply depth of scye measure and to
63 Measure hip and
68 18 to 19
30 This gives the proportional height of shoulders.
32
inch
inches.
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 62 Draw line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower 1 inch at 17.
65
U
to
l^:\
61
straighten the front run, take
to
1^
is
to 16. 1
60 inch.
part.
20
and 8
cut.)
out in the underarm cut as shown by shaded
it
Y
—
inch over 11 to 14
;
To
is
a line from 16 through 11 to 14
to 14 is the length
^
inch
1
N.
way between upper and lower
than breast.
G
to
16 to 12; 12 to 11
inch.
25 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches less
P
54 Square
—on "12ths/' and
inches; square up to S,
waist
53 Measure waist and 1^4 inches
inch.
1/12 breast
is I1/2
down from K through 4 to 17. 48 4 to 5 is 3/2 waist on "halves" Add 1 inch 49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 50 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 51 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 52 In corpulency, measure the waist first and obtain the This rule applies where the hip spring from it.
58 Shape side seam of forepart from
Add
O-M; draw
blade.
Add
lj4 inches, width of Back.
inch from Line
24 Point S
H.
way between B and K.
is
W.
to
42 V to point 1 is >< inch less than S to X. 43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding '/z inch over Z. 45 B to 2 is 3^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is iyi inches. 46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual
to E.
to
Add 1 Add 1 Add 1
seams
blade, with
20 Square up to O, and down to 21
inch
1
draw line F to G and down drawn inside of B measure the full breast measure (24).
17
19
Add
just
16
18
allowances.
(8) seat-line.
;
inches, center of breast
is Zj/z is
all
inch;
is 3/2
B
—
3 and 4.
1/3 breast, on "3rds"
is
inches.
natural waist (18j4)
is
D
H to I B to K
15
and oyi
the proportional, and includes
is
from
47 Square
3
half
line
;
;
4.
1/3 breast and
is
shown draw
38 Apply strap measure, and 1 incii A to R and 3 to V in normal attitude will meet line 4-V. 39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and 3 to Z; when normal, meet line F-V. 40 Z is 134 inches from line K. 41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1.
76 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) 77 The buttons are 4 inches from the edge.
,
COATS
§ 3
Box Overcoat Diagram 45 arc taken over the Vest always.
The measures
3.
Breast
Waist Hip or
seat
30
36 inches. 32 inches.
Depth of scye
31
37 inches.
Natural waist
inches.
Strap
12 inches.
Full length
Over shoulder
17 inches.
Height
Form and
29
Blade (with Iji inches for seams added) 12>^ in.
17^
Inside sleeve
9 inches.
16%
P to 11 is 3 inches. Draw lines from Y through drapery
If
inches.
38 inches.
32
From B up
5 feet 6 inches.
Sizes 33 to 48 breasts.
wanted, add to
is
A
33 The y2 inch
in
Square both ways from A. Add 1 inch 2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3;j inches 3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches (10>4).
4 This
is
the proportional, and includes
A
to
C
is
natural waist
C
to
D
is
1/3 breast,
5
all
(16%)
on "3rds" (6)
allowances.
38
Draw
39
V
40
Draw
inch
7
Added
to the natural waist gives correct length.
8
A
to
is
9
F
is
E
B
and
A
Add
10 Square out from A, B, C, D,
H
E
and
12
H
to I is 2'/. inches, center of breast.
13
B
to
is
14 Square up from
L L
half
to
M
is
1%
17 Square
up
to
16
K
.
.Add
Add Add
to 3
inches
O
to
U, and
F
26 27
X Y
is J/2 is
X
J/2
y^ inch
2» P to 12
inch,
and lower
inch on the
is
S-U
from the
2 inches.
line
at point
(.)-N lino,
1
from B
R
to
is
V
to
F-V.
S
from point
1
to
is
1.
X.
to T. J/2
in.
over Z.
on "halves" 2 to K is 31/2 inches. normal blade and independent of the actual >4 breast
;
K through 4 to
44 Square down from
inch
45 4 to 5
1
inch
46 Square down from 5 to
is J/2
point.
The
51
Draw
52
V
1
the same.
Style.
and 1/12 up from M.
7.
I
57
Go
58
V
59
The
1
inch to
5 is
from Z
to
E
and
1
inch,
is
line
14 to 7; shape bottom; lower
is
%
line
K.
in J4 inch at 7;
;
inch at 17.
Add
2y2 inches
to J is 2j/^ inches
1
forward from 18 by K.
breast
a line from 19 to is
from
taken up in making the front edge.
inch
53 18 to 19
56
Add
The measure from B
to 18 is 1/12 breast; square
Draw
17.
—on "halves"
used only to obtain the front cenof the waist and to check the blade measure.
to 7 is length
50
54
waist
K, 4 and
55 19 to 20
1
W.
to
and 3
line
to point
J^ inch less than
is
inch
to V.
— or
line
A
inch
;
1
;
from S
2
ter
Draw
lines
draw
1
Z when normal, meet
1
24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 25 Rise at
to
49 Z
2i
21
1 J<2
inch
A.
blade.
to P.
22
19
20
B
— width of Back.
and down
to
a guide line
2,
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on "12ths"— and inches square up to S, ^ inch. Q to R is K to T is 1% inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U and A.
18
42
way between B and K.
is
15
.
blade, with seams
is
;
from line K. from V through Z
a line
to point
43 This
F.
B
K
inch
3/2
i/j
line
154 inches
is
half the full breast measure (18).
11
to
meet
41 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding
the Full Length of Back.
half between
will
for fullness held in over the blade.
is
W and 3
Add
1
paral-
(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 3b Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to
37 Z
seat-line.
draw
inch and
1
normal attitude
3h Apply strap measure, and
1
Y
apply depth of scye measure and
103/2) to
34 Shape the Back as shown
To Draft.
through
N, from X.
line to
lel
(
attitude, normal.
Y
12 to N, and
11 to 14.
;
I
and
notch
1
inch
5. J/2
inch from 19.
5 to 6 is the same.
draw
line
from 6 and shape
front.
1J4 inches; draw line to end of roll. pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y> inch from K.
to 21
is
60 (For double-breasted add 2J4 inches to the front.)
ยง3
COATS
COATS
DIAGRAM
46 -FROCK
OVERCOAT
1
.
COATS
§ 3
Frock Overcoat Diagram 46 4.
Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always.
17^
42 Z
Breast
36 inches.
Blade (with 1^4 inches for seams added) \2y2 in.
Waist Hip or seat
32 inches.
Depth of scye
inches.
Natural waist
Strap
12 inches.
Fashion waist
Inside sleeve
(
2i7
)ver shoulder
inches.
17 inches.
Full length
and
attitude, nnrnial
inches. inches.
41 inches.
Height •"urni
9 inches.
16% 18%
Sizes, 33
Add
B
to
A
4
A
is
half
5
This
is
the proportional, and includes
6
to
C
is
7
A A
to
D
8
D
to
50
9
A
to
E
10
F
and
1/3 breast of height,
— and —
(18%
1%
is
inch
1
13
H
to I is
14
B
to
is
K
Add
E
and
inch
F.
2%
inches, center of breast.
.
.
.Add
1
inch
.'\dd
1
inch
1
inch
blade (with seams)
is
R is 1% inches. Square up to S, K to T is 1.'4 inches; T to U is 1/12 to
23 Square up from lines
U
from S
X
is
y, inch
29
Y
is
K' i"ch
to
U
from U, h'
to
From B up
C
to
E
to
1%
inches in
%
sizes, to
all
inch for every incli
^
and
—
A
in
%
inch
G
is
is
will
line
K.
1%
is
%
'
inch
I>
A.
;
line
20
square forward from 18 by K.
draw
breast;
line
from 19
and
to I
5.
inch rounding over the breast. a straight line
'
20.
is
2y,
ins.
;
10 to 25 the .same; sweep by 20.
a line from 13 to 24; shape from 13 to 25.
a line
at 10
and 25 should be the same.
from
to
;
—
a
'
j
%
23 to 12
is
1/3 breast and
12 to 11
is
l'-2
Draw
y
inch
32.
inch.
inches; 11 to 27
is
%
a line from 23 through 11 and
inch. 14.
1 inch from 23. more than D to E. Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K.
is
Draw
natural waist, and
%
is
line 14 to 7;
inch
shape bottom; lower
Square down the front
to
40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and 3 (13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to 3 to Z when normal, meet line F-V (18).
W.
to
V
W and
;
%
K through 20 to 26. 26 is 2% inches I to J is 3% inches. Shape lapel through 26 J to 25. .Skirt For a medium full skirt rise at 32
Draw
14
inches.
draw
%
is
23 to bottom
inch over the rounding.
39 Shape the Back as shown
inch should be added to 22 for ease.
to 18 is 1/12 breast;
—
from B
inch
1
%
and square down by 23. Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. inch and square down by Flare At 23 go up
N is the
38 Blade fullness
A y
—
for fullness held in over the blade.
1/16 breast and
body reducing
The opening
Style.
meet
Add side
10 to 24
breast.
apply depth of scye measure and
normal attitude
;
i"fh near Y, Ys inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to l.v
Draw
inch.
A to
smaller than the breast.
is
—
same width as SO to G, and %. inch. 35 Draw line from G to N and froiu 36 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 34
inches, or
Rever 19 to 20 is 1 j inches, or draw through 5-9; straighten 3 2 inch at
to A. \',
on the S-U line or from the O-M line. 30 Draw guide line from X to Y.
33
1%
13.
to V, locating the shoulder point.
located on lines
28
The
niea.surc.
to 23 23 is j^ inch below the fashion waist, or sweep from the Back by Y. Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16
Add
26 This gives- the proportional height of shoulders. 27 Rise at X %'inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
32
is
Square up, and down
18 to 19
—
to
22
to
check the blade
to
allow for blade fullness and
\
—
M
31
I
Shape
half the full breast measure.
.Vdd Square up from K to 3 16 L is half way between B and K. is 1% inches width of Back. 17 L to 18 Square up to O, and down to P. 19 P is J-4 inch from Line O-M. Square down to 20 A to Q is 1/12 breast on "12ths"— and
Draw
(
the waist
inch
1
through 50 to E.
.A
15
A' is
and
2% inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 2% inches are for seams and make-up.
is
These
the Full Lenth of Back.
is
I!
25
fmm K thnjugh 4 to 17. 50 4 to 5 is waist— on "ii.\lves" Add in inch. 51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen-
allowances.
all
Add from
12
24
normal blade and independent of the actual
is
blade.
5 to 8
)
inches, line
is half between A and B Square out from .\, B, C, D,
22
48 This
;
;
1
O
%
%
3j/j inches.
natural waist (16 '4) Add 1 inch is the fashion waist one-fourth height and
IJ^ inches
21
V through Z to point 1. 44 V to point 1 is y. inch less than S to X. 45 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 46 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding in. over Z. 47 B to 2 is breast on "iialvks" 2 to K is 3% inches.
ter of the waist,
3
H
inches from line K.
a line from
%
Square both ways from A. 2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3% inches
to
1%
49 Square down
42 breasts.
t(j
1
way between
is
Draw
5 feet 6 inches.
To Dk.mt.
is
43
Take out a
%
fish
ei\ge to 7,
inch, 1/6
1
inch at 17.
by the waist
up from
line.
15.
out y from D and line parallel to 50-E. inch at B from A to C. Reduce A Frock Overcoat should always be worn over a Frock Coat never over a Sack Coat.
Go
%
;
1
.
COATS
10
§3
Ulster Diagram 47 S.
The measures arc taken over
the \'est always.
Breast
36 inches.
Blade (with 1J4 inches for seams added) 12J/2 in.
Waist
32 inches.
Depth of scye
Inside sleeve
Hip or
I7}i inches.
37 inches.
Natural waist
Strap
12 inches.
Full length
Over shoulder
17 inches.
Height
seal
9 inches.
16^
inches.
50 inches.
The
inch
y'j
for fullness held in over the blade.
is
Shape the Hack as shown
draw
;
from B
line
Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to 13 j in normal attitude will meet
W.
to
R
and 3 to line A-V.
V
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B \\' and 3 to Z when normal, meet line F-V.
to
;
l-'orm
and
ailiiude, normal.
5 feet
6 inches.
Z
42 breasts
Sizes, 33 to
1^
is
Draw To Draft.
\'
Square both ways from A. 1 2 A to B is 1/3 breast and Z'/i inches 3
B
to
A
4
A
is
half
1/3 breast of height and
is
5
This
is
the proportional
6
A
to
C
is
natural waist (16<j
7
C
to
D
is
1/3 breast,
1
inch
inches {lOyi).
3', j
and includes
Add
on "3rds" (6)
is half between B and A Square out from A, B, C, D,
1
inch
seat line.
F
16
H B
to
to
is
I
K
2'
is
J
Add
.
19
L L
is
M
B and
21
P
22
A
23
24
is
to
]/i
Q
.Add
inch is
from Line
1/12 breast
O-M
—on
inch
1
inch
1
inch
is
^2 waist
K
.\dd
1
draw
"12tiis"
line to
and
ter of the waist
8
5 to
is
X
is J/2
31
Y
is
inch on the
yi inch
S-U
from the
O-N
11 to 12 is IV4 inches;
square up, locating
a line
from 13 through
From B up
line
and 1/12 up from
Y
to P.
.
.
G
to
from Y to N. seam of forepart from Y
side
—
'/S
in.
from
Z to 7 The 1
inch
Draw
line 14 to 7;
\' to
apply depth of scye measure and J< inch (lO'/j) to A in normal attitude will meet line A.
1
inch
.Add
1
and 8
inch to
1
16
inch
10 14 is the length
(Reduce
Al,
P
width
;
13.
Add
is
Y
length from is
Z
taken up
to
when no underarm cut.) and 1 inch, from line K. making the front edge.
in
E
shape bottom; lower
1/12 breast plus
18 to 19
is
J4 breast
is
20
is
to
J
26
and
going out
to 16
is
19 to 20
to 16,
or Style.
18
I to
from
inch
1^4 inches.)
is
11 to 14.
inches
Ij/j
y^ inch over 11 to 14
plus J4 inch.
32 Draw guide
1
the same.
is
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
Draw
."^haiie
— or Style.
line,
inches.
Add
^
X.
—and
locating the shoulder point.
line
over Z.
to 17.
These ly^ inches are for seams and make-up. .\pply flip measure and inch for 3 seams of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. .Add
inch
26 \' is located on lines from IJ and A. 27 Draw lines from S to U, and F to \^. 28 This gives the projwrtional height of shoulders. 29 Rise at X '1 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 30
in.
is 3'/l.
to check the blade measure.
lyi inches, 9 to 10
;
\'.
K
"h.\i.ve.s"
;
to
1.
X.
to
2 to
;
through 4
—on
Measure waist and
Q to R is ly^ inches square up to S, ^ inch. K to T is 1^ inches T to U is 1/12 breast. U
S
blade.
^' ;
to point
and independent of the actual
lilade
Square down from
>2 inch
1
normal
on "h.\lves"
is
25 Square up from
33
through Z
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen-
K.
1>4 inches, width of Hack. 20 Square up to O, and down to N to
.
Add Add
blade (with seams)
17 Square u])
18
is
\i
inches, center of breast.
from K to 3 half way between
V
}! inch less than
to 2 is yi breast
4 to 5
;
15
B
allowances.
all
)
and F. 12 C to G is [-2 inch draw line F to G and down to E. 13 From the line just drawn inside of 11 measure to H. 14 B to H is half the full breast measure (ISi. 1
is
1
a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi
This
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (50). 10
to point
Draw
Add
— and —
way between
inches from line K.
a line from
'/.
incli
;
inch at 17.
1
square forward.
Add
1
inch
2 inches; add a seam in J\
33^ inches by 5 to
6
is
4
2.
inches.
Go
in y- inch at 7; draw line from 6 and shape front. The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and j inch from K. The collar is either a Prussian stvle or double stand. '
COATS
DIAGRAM
47
- DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER
11
COATS
12
DIAGRAM
48
INVERNESS WITH CAPE
ยง3
COATS
Inverness
13
With Cape
Diagram 48 The measures
6.
17%
Inside sleeve
are taken over the Vest always.
Blade (with 1^4 inches for seams added) 12^ in.
inches.
Waist
36 inches. 32 inches.
Depth of scye
Hip
il inches.
Natural waist
Strap
12 inches.
Full length
Over shoulder
17 inches.
Height
Breast or seat
Form and
inches.
40 inches. 5 feet 6 inches.
To Draft. Square both ways from A or 4. Add 1 inch B is 1/3 breast and 3^ inches 3 B to 3 is 1/3 of height and 3yi inches (10^). 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 1
2 4 to
6 7
A to C is natural waist (16%) C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds"
Add ;
;
blade.
9 inches.
16%
Sizes ZZ to 42 breasts.
attitude, normal.
40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding /2 in. over Z. 41 B to 2 is >^ breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3>1 inches. 42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual
1
inch
down from K through 4 to 17. 44 4 to 5 is >4 waist on "halves" Add 1 inch 45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen43 Square
—
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 46 5 to 8 is 2/2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 47 These 2/2 inches are for seams and make-up. 48 Apply hip measure and >'4 inch for 3 seams; width of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11 Add 1 inch 49.11 to 12 is 1% inches; square up, locating 16.
50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11
55
N. Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16 and 14. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. Draw line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower 1 inch at 17.
56
V
to 18
is
53
Add >^ inch F is half between B and 4 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. is half the full breast measure (18). 14 B to 10
11
H to
16
B
to
I is
K is
from
17 Square up 18 19
L L
K to
3
inch
57 18 to 19
1
inch
58
1
inch
60
M
1%
61
inches, width of Back.
20 Square up to O, and down 21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on
R
22
Q
23
K to T is 1%
to
is
iy2 inches inches
N
Add
T
to
1
inch
T2ths— and
square up to S,
;
;
to
U
^
inch.
to
;
1/12 breast, plus yi inch; square from 18
I to
J
is
%
Add
breast
a line from 19 to
is
I
and
1
inch
5.
is 2y2 inches notch >4 inch from 19. 2 inches 5 to 6 is 2 inches square down. ;
;
;
Go in yi inch at 7; draw line from 6 and shape front. 62 The side seams are notched at the waistline. 63 The opening of front is made to measure. 64 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and yi inch from K. 65 (For double-breasted add 3 inches to the front.)
1/12 breast.
is
Draw
59 19 to 20
way between B and K.
is
Y
by K.
1
half
is
to
Add Add Add
2>4 inches, center of breast blade (with seams)
from
the length
;
H
15
inches.)
is
54
A
1%
to 14
52
(6) seat Hne.
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9 to E is the Full Length of Back.
is
Y
51
24 Square up from U 25 V is located on lines from U and A. 26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V.
66
Draw
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X 2 inches and lower at point 1 the same.
67
Draw
to V, locating the shoulder point.
29 30
X is Y is
31
From B
1
inch on the
A
part,
from the
32 The Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 33 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. ;
34 Apply strap measure and in
normal attitude
will
1
inch
meet
line
35 Apply over shoulder measure and 3 to
36 Z 37
is
;
1
R
to
a line
inch
normal, meet line F-V.
from line K. from V through Z
and 3
to
to point
Wing
or
Cape
from
V
to
V
2 and from
a line from 2 through
B
to 19.
to 5.
1.
38 to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T.
breast (4>^). 68 2 to 3 is 69 3 to 4 is l3/< inches. 70 Shape side seam of wing through points 4 and
The curve may be continued shown on the diagram. 72 The front edge of the wing 71
V
A-V.
134 inches
Draw
V
Z when
A
the
%
Style.
0-N
and yi inch below notch. up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch in normal attitude will meet line A (10>4).
>4 inch
to
S-U line— or
To Form
shoulder seam of the cape even with the fore-
of the break, or crease
2.
to the front shoulder, as
is
curved from the back
line.
V to 32 in a direct line down is length desired (27). 74 Sweep from 32 to 5 pivot at 2 finish to front. 75 2 to notch on the wing in a straight line is the same as X to the notch on side seam. 73
B
to
W and
;
;
76 The front of cape
is
about 3>4 inches from edge. finished with hooks or buttons
77 The buttons, 3 inches under collar.
;
COATS
14
§ 3
Shoulder Cape Diagram 49 Breast, 36 inches. 9.
1
3
4
Add Add
B
to
7
A Q A
to
8
9
inch
1
inch
A
to S,
X
to
inch
1
2 inches.
18
F B
is 1
R
from
to
and gorge to
F.
add 1>4 inches for buttons.
J
inch
1
23 If the front cape
on point
K
X
down. hooks and eyes.
to J is 1 J4 inches ; square finishes the front for
To F and
21
to
inch from line A, or to measure.
22 The broken lines show the position of the overcoat, and also prove the correct position of the cape.
^
Cape
is
laid to the front, point J will fall
I.
shoulder, head and sleeve and brings the seams squarely on top of the shoulder. 25 For shorter capes proceed the same way. 26 For longer capes keep on line I from K down.
24
Y.
K.
This completes the back part. inch. 10. .\ to F is 1/6 and
1.^
is
17 Shape front shoulder
19
10 Square down to X, 1/6 breast (3). 11 Draw lines from S to X and X through
12 Siiape from
D
to
Sweep from D to Y; pivot at S. 16 Shape the Back from E to Y.
20 This
Add H is half full breast (18) Q is 1/12 breast—on "12tiis" and to R is Ij^ inches; square np to S ^ inch. Add to O is half breast (10)
6
1
from B, C and E.
5 Square out
E
15
Square both ways from A.
A to B is 1/3 breast and 3'/ inches A to C is >^ height and ^ inch A to E is the full length (27>4).
2
14
Length, 27^< inches.
— Half
It clears the
Circle
Diagram 50 11.
1
Square both ways from A.
2 Place the pattern (Overcoat) in position. 3 The back against line A-E and the front against line
7
G
to
F
is
8
D
to
B
is
9 Reduce
2 inches 1
more than C
C
inch less than
inch from the front.
1
to E.
to E.
This will leave a V/z-
inch stand beyond the front center of an Overcoat,
A-B.
or hook and eye
4 The shoulders to meet at X. 5 Draw a line from K through
G
to F.
from
C
to E.
6 Measure length
desire<l
10
Cape
line.
Sweep both ways from F;
—Three -Quarter
(See shoulder cape.) pivot at G and finish.
Circle
Diagram 51 1
12.
Draw
line
(Overcoat)
O-P and
place
2 Place back with the shoulder seam tion
forepart pattern
the
in position.
and mark
all
in a closing posi-
5
T
to
Q
6
N
to
P
Draw
1
inch
from the
R
to S.
to S.
This will leave
front.
1^-
inch stand beyond the front center of an Overcoat
and
R
R
inch less than
is
the
hook and eye
8 Sweep both ways from
a line throngli ihc shoulder to Q.
4 Measure length desired from
2 inches more than
is 1
7 Reduce
around the upper part of the
coat.
3
is
Q
;
line.
pivot at
T
and
finish as
represented.
to S.
Cape
— Circular
Diagram 52 1
13.
Draw
line
M-I and place the pattern (Overcoat)
2
The back meet
3
Draw
against the line
drawn and
from
the shoulders to
N
to
L
is
I
7 Reduce
2 inches more than
M
to
M
to
H.
is 1 1
inch less than
inch from the front.
H.
This
will leave
1^-
inch stand beyond the front center of an Over-
at J.
a line
5 J to
6
in position.
K through
4 Measure length desired from
J to L. to 11.
M
coat, and is the hook and eye 8 Sweep both ways from L; pivot
line.
at J
and
finish.
§3
COATS
DIAGRAM
50
DIAGRAM
- CAPE HALF
52
— CAPE
CIRCLE
CIRCULAR
15
DIAGRAM
DIAGRAM
51
49
— CAPE
— SHOULDER CAPE
THREE-QUARTER CIRCLE
— COATS
§ 3
Tables of Proportions Tables of proportions are to most people great mysteries in the makeup; but if taken hold of and dissected to see the inside of them, they will be found to be
Add Imes
14.
anything
really very simple, like
place,
first
is
it
proportion that will I'liited
a table of
States, because there
too
is
much
who have had
Persons
West or mountain district the average 39 breast, and on the Pacific coast the average is stature also
is
Again,
very variable.
it is
grow very
tall
ready-to-wear houses take the orders but standard sizes are
locality orders
what
is
before any-
first
made up consequently each It is in the way of sizes. from a manufac-
brings us square up to the question
a table of proportions to ^^^-
the locality
fit
TABLE
?
Why
:
Why,
not
has
it
size less in height is
By moving
adopted
the breast size one
stoutness,
thus
;
column
to the left,
and
place 39 in the "Standard" column, instead of 38; leav-
ing the height as
it is
write line
;
8.
Deduct the 3 inches from 39 and for a 5
leaves 36 waist
it
8 inches stout.
ft.
The standard above has been
18.
fore add
accepted, there-
inches increase to each waist size above 36,
lJ/2
and deduct 3 inches even below the column
;
the result
is
last
arc wont to consider their ideal of standard; not that it is any better, but perhaps will be more readily understood.
what the "standard of height" shall 1. (If this don't suit, change it.)
First determine
The waist
height
— Line
2.
It
has also been decided that 38 breast
(The be the "Single Standard" of measurement. double standard of monetary units are not in vogue now.) shall
on each side of 38. Draw two It has further been decided that there shall be 4 inches difference in the breast and waist. It will be argued that 4 inches is all right for 38 and vertical black lines
under; but not for a 50 breast— all proceeding as follows:
Of
38, the last figure
39
is
4^.
change
it
;
W'ell, just increase Yi
is
8, half of
it
is
4; half the
half of the last figure of
40
is 5.
inch for each size, then there
is
Place 40 in the column this time and write line 10. Deduct the 2 inches from 40, leaves 38 waist. Add \Yi inches increase to each waist size above 38
and deduct 2 inches even below 40
increase a
make J/>
The in
result is line 11
;
breast.
the waist size for the corpulent
2nd degree. 19.
A
corpulent in 3rd degree, or
1
inch difference.
Place the next highest breast size in the "Standard"
column,
this
Deduct
time 41, and write line
1
12.
Add
inch difference, leaves 40.
V/i inches
increase to each waist size above 40, and deduct
even below 41 breast. Lines 14,
The
1
inch
result is line 13.
16 and 17 are the depth of scye, ob-
15,
tained as explained in the system.
TABLE 20.
2.
Gives the same figures with the front shoulder
and over shoulder measures for the normals and the depth of scye for the stouts.
When
the depth of scye
height and width,
it
is
established correctly
will give the strap
from
and over shoulder
measures without any table of calculations.
figuring.
Deduct the 4 inches difference cided on.
;
by
figure of the breast, starting with
Take Yi of the last and make line 3.
last figure of
right,
Next take the corpulent and continue the same as the deducting onlv 2 inches for a 2nd degree of cor-
pulency.
be; this done, write Line
17. In this case it has been decided that 6 feet shall be the limit of height, and then gradually down again. Next place the breast sizes under each figure of
degree of corpu-
sizes for the stouts or 1st
lency.
1.
There are several ways of making tables of proBy trying to follow near to what the tailors ])ortions.
no
use them.
;
For the purpose of further emphasizing the
make
of course,
16.
38,
"Standard" breasts, and
line 9.
turer. It
heights, the
sizes.
;
needed
possible to order six suits or less
now
follows the 4 inches de-
it
In order to increase the waist circumference,
known
and u.sually slim. Arguments perhaps will be advanced to show that wholesale houses must have such tables. Today the tliing
The "Standard"
one
40 breast. the Southern people
too.
been decided to deduct only 3 inches from the breast
In the middle
The
it is,
the "Standard" waists have been obtained
In Chicago
they will average 38 breast.
will be
simple and correct
widths.
know New York
a chance to observe
17 breast, or between 35 and 38.
city will be
or a gradually
;
Next take the stouts and the corpulents. The "Single Standard" was decided on in heights and
difference in
that the average breast sizes of the people in
7
cided on.
majority of people in the
tlie
tit
make
impossible to
the people in the different parts of the country. 15.
How
6, the result is line
size.
increases \Yi inches; below
direction.
In the
and
In other words, above the standard column each size
once in the right
else,
5
increasing waist
line 4;
38
size,
in
waist and breast de-
4 from 4 leaves
inch each size: the result
is
0,
or
line 5.
This table can also be used for combining any height
and width and
in the table.
5 ft. 10 inches
Advance
;
For example, 36 breast corpulent
find depth of scye.
same distance from each column along
Place the waist sizes of 4 inches difference under each breast size starting from single standard column, making
the scye line, which will bring
line 6.
7 inches,
the
which
is
correct.
it
to
9%
under the 5
ft.
ยง
COATS
3
Table No. Line
.
-5 ft.-
1
Height, 5
2
Breast
ft.
and inches
3
4
5
6
7
33
,^4
3.i
36
37
17
1
-S
ft.-
COATS
18
Ji
Vests Table No. 3
Height
O
2 u
2
PQ
5
ft.
3
in
33
29
9
12>4 17
5
ft.
4
in..'...
34
30
9y&
5
31
12% I7}i 12^ 17%
9Va 9/2 \2y^ 18
ft.
5
in
35
5 ft.
6
in
36
5
ft.
7
in
Z7
5
ft.
8
in
38
34
5
ft.
9
in
39
35>^
in
40
37
in
41
38;4
5
ft.
5
ft.
9>4 10
11;M 12
12>4 \2y2
18M 12^ 9/8 1314 18% 13 10 13>^ 19 UYa 10>^ UYa \9Y UYz 191^ 13^ io>4 14 10^ UYa 1934 14 1414 lOj^ 14% 20 13
1% 23% 21% 1% 24% 21% 1% 24% 21% 2
25
22
2% 25% 22% 2% 25% 22% 2% 26 22% 3
26% 23
3% 26% 23% 3% 27% 23% 3% 27% 23%
5
ft.
10>< in
42
40
5
ft.
11
in
43
111^ in
44
41K' 43 lOYz lAYz 2OY4 14>4
4
28
35
12^
2
24% 21%
5 ft.
5
ft.
3
in
36
5
ft.
4
in
7,7
9Y4
18
9% 13 18^ 12% 2% 25 22 37 9% 13% 18% 13 2% 25% 22% 38 9% 13% 19 13% 2% 25% 22% 39 9% 13% 19% 13% 3 26% 22% 40 10% 14 19% 13% 3% -26% 23 41% 10% 14% 19% 14 3% 27% 23% 43 14% 3% 27% 23% 10% 14% 20 36
5
ft.
5
in
38
5
ft.
6
in
39
5
ft.
7
in
40
5
ft.
8
in
41
5
ft.
9
in
42
5
ft.
9>4 in
43
5
ft.
10
in
44
5
ft.
\0y2 in
45
5
ft.
11
in
46
5
ft.
W/,
in
47
6
ft.
in
48
44% 10% 46 10% 47% 10% 49 10% 50% 11%
5
ft.
11^4 in
49
52
5
ft.
11
in
50
5
ft.
10j/< in
51
5
ft.
10
52
in
12%
24
14% 20% 14% 14% 20% 14%
28
23%
4% 28% 24 15 20% 15 4% 28% 24% 15% 21 15% 4% 29% 24%
15% 21% 15% 15% 21% 15% 53% 11 15% 21% 16 55 11% 16 22 16% 56% 11% 16% 22% 16% 11
%
4
5
6
To Scye has been added inch. To Strap inch. Shnulder 1 inch. To Rlade 1% inches. Lengths are net.
%
29% 24%
5% 29% 25 5% 30 25% 5% 30% 25% 30% 25% To Over-
3
:
;
COATS.
ยง3
19
Making Up To the practical tailor the assertion will seem an most superfluous one, that the making up or putting gether of the garment is of the greatest importance. may
al-
lowing the natural movement of the arm and shoulder
to-
without causing a break
may
and often
be,
is,
com-
by the carelessness or incompetence of
pletely neutralized
workman, hence, in any work on cutting the importance of accurate making up should lie continuously impressed upon the student, and sucji information as it is the
possible to impart
in
should
freely
Ijc
and
fully
placed at his disposal.
Convinced of ject permits,
is
making of the to particular
this fact,
and as concisely
as the sub-
will be
taken up
in
making in
this
However, the following
up.
rules
must be
Never under any circumstances should the forepart any way whatever with an iron
in
such as stretching the
;
gorge and the shoulder seam near the shoulder point
must not be done.
;
seam
is
it
it
that the under collar has been correctly cut,
will require
much
advance the
not be where the
gorge
is
stretched
it
the neck.
seam to the forepart, amount of extra length allowed to the backpart, ^
j/a inch for stooping, and about even for should be fulled on just below the collar and sewed in. When pressing, open the seam, or in pressing
The
shoulder seams to about
As
iy2
inches
in
a rule for length of rolls in front, rise
end of the collar above point 19 for a button for a roll to third button, or long ;
inch
more
at the
at the
break
end of the
should be taken to keep the shoulder forward.
throw the shoulder forward as if were inserted just below the collar, and prevent the coat from sliding backwards over the shoulder fullness. will then
a hinge or joint
heads.
The canvas should be
cut with a piece inserted in the
shoulder to create a slight spring over the shoulder head
no stretching or cutting of the canvas from the scye up over the shoulder must be done
:
only the haircloth
of the scye and a piece inserted
in the
is slit
shoulder,
as in the canvas.
shoulder seam has been stretched no amount of
long collar can prevent the coat from appearing to
shoulder and to pull
away from
fall
the neck over the
gorge, instead of the shoulder coming forward and fol-
front of
the
%
inch
roll to
more
second
roll, raise
collar, gradually, to
%
nothing
line.
Putting in Sleeves. pitching of the sleeves, or, in other words, the
position of the fore and hind
and
coat,
is
arm notches
of the sleeve
of great importance, and should never be
forearm notch
off the
collar will then give just the right
shoulder seams.
left to the discretion
same
many journey-
amount of fullness to be put on for all lengths of roll. The fullness is started from about K' inch back of the
erects,
If the
than
leaf or fall
all,
inch in normal,
the
The
edge should and the underside or stand should be stretched only enough to give it the same length as not be stretched at
The
In sewing on the back shoulder
in front
less stretching
consider necessary.
over measure, and also
first
away from
will
it
will
If the
to be.
lengthen the strap or
hollow the gorge
stretched
consequently,
cutter has intended
The
cut as explained in the
at the
the shoulder
off care
is
Putting on Collar.
Assuming
the fall piece.
order to insure success with this system
shoulder point
the collar
important feature.
men
from the bottom of scve up be stretched or shrunk
the
When
and lengthening i/^ inch beyond point 19, the collar around the break edge will always iiave the same length, no matter what the length of the roll is, which it should have to fit the same size of coat and neck. Collars cut in any other way will not have
successive pa-
Perhaps different systems require different treatments
If
few points.
text by raising 14 inch
it
in the
the Collar.
cutting the collar, as has been explained under Collars, it may not be amiss to again call attention to a In
coats, while detailed instruction pertaining
garments
Closing of Shoulder Seams.
observed
canvas.
here given a few general rules for the
pers.
will
Making
be necessary to state that the most thoughtful and
accurate work of the cutter
in the front
It
is
of the workman.
In this system the
located three-quarters of an inch above
the bottom of the scye, the same as on the coat, and the hindarm notch at the top of the sideseam as cut. The backnotch on the coat is placed halfway of the depth of scye, as explained under the Coats. If such has been done, the notches must go together both in front and back, and the sleeves will always hang correctly, no matter what the attitude of the customer, because all arms hang straight down, and by cutting the breast line on a floor level all the changes for attitude are done on the top construction line A-\', and therefore in no way interfere with the hang of the sleeve. The three foregoing rules should be observed and followed. In addition, it may be stated that no "bridle" is
necessary to be put on, nor should the front edge be held in too
much.
In
special instruction
all
other respects the coat requires no
and can be given
to
any coat-maker.
LAYOUT
DIAGRAM 1.
DIAGRAM
2
Suit lay
:
Cloth,
3^
yards.
By
reversing forepart
of trousers, under sleeve and the Vest will lay to a 43 breast size. 2.
Suit lay:
Shows
the dotted lines across.)
also a
Coat and Vest
lay.
(See
1
ยง7
LAYOUT
DIAGRAM 3. 4.
DIAGRAM
3
Coat and trousers lay: Amount of cloth, 3 yards. Suit lay For a 36 size, cloth required, 2% yards. :
4
ยง
VEST
4
International Cutting Schools
VESTS PART FOUR CopynKhlcd, 1913
1.
The measures
the coat
;
for the vest
deptli of scyc
over slioulder and blade to the
opening and the
and length ;
same as for
are the
to waist
breast and waist
;
the
;
in
straj),
addition
full length.
FIG. 10
riace the end of tapeline on back of neck, bring the first button or the opening.
tape over the shoulder to the
Then from
the neck point in a straight line over the
front to the center of the length desired.
Sometimes a measure
is
(See Fig. 10.)
taken to the side of the vest
over the hip; from the nape of neck
The opening measures may
in a straight line.
be taken for D. B.'s and
desired. for dress vest, to get the exact opening
For other particulars
see under
measures for the coat
VEST
DIAGRAM
53
VEST NORMAL
1
VEST
4
§
Vest Normal Diagram 53 The measures
3.
are taken under the Vest always.
from B to W. R and K to V in normal attitude will meet line A-V, less inch. Apply over shoulder measure and y^ inch B to and K to Z when normal, meet line F-V. Z is 134 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. inch less than S to X. V to point 1 is Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 34 '" over Z. B to 2 is 3/2 breast on "halves" 2 to K is 3 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual. Square down from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 3^ waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to
33 Shape the back as shown
Blade (with 1^4 inches for seams added) 12^/2 in.
34 Apply strap measure, and
Waist
36 inches. 32 inches.
Strap
12 inches.
Depth of scye
35
Over shoulder Opening
17 inches.
Natural waist
12 inches.
Full length
Breast
Height
Form and
attitude, normal.
5 feet
Sizes, 33 to
inches.
2 3
4 5
6 7
25 inches.
36
6 inches.
37
38 39
42 breasts.
40
Square both ways from A or 4. 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3'/^ inches (9>^). B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and 3j/2 inches. A is half way between 3 and 4. This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. A to C is one-fourth height, and j^ inch for length. C to D is 1/3 breast on "3rds" (6) seat line.
—
41
42 43
44 45
A
to
E
is
the Full Length of
Back— 19
inches.
is half between B and A for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 C to G is inch; draw line F to G and down to D. 13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 14 B to is half the full breast measure (18).
10
F
1
^
H
15
H
to I is
16
B
to
K
is
2 inches, center of breast.
17 Square up from 18
19
L L
is
half
to
M
K—
way between B and K.
is J/^
inch
20 Square up to O, and down to N. 21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths"— and 22 Q to R is 1>^ inches; square up to S, 3^ 23
K to T
is 1
inch
;
T
to
;
U
is
K, 4 and
5
^
46 2 to 44
is
G to P
is
47
48 4
1
inch
square
;
51
;
'/•
inch.
lines
from 3
to
From P down add
^
P and
3 to 16.
K through
16.
inch for spring.
52 For small waist take out a fish on line N. I34 inches,
A
to
R
and
V
to 7
47
(26M). Apply opening and }i inch, A to R and V to J i'i^2y^). Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. V to 21 is 1 inch when no collar, }i inch. Draw line from 21 to first button and finish as repre-
58
The
54
;
sented. line
D
a feature of this system, and
is
tained as explained above
is
when ob-
a reliable guide for
the front length of the Vest. all sizes and all heights. 60 The dot and dash lines indicate 56>4 inches waist. 61 Note how the system works for all sizes and through
59
It
agrees with
solid points.
M
on line O-M. 29 Y is 1/12 up from 30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J/2 inch (9>^') to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 31 The >4 inch is for fulness held in over the blade. 32 Add ji inch above A to nothing at S no outlet.
to 3,
to 16 is 1J4 inches.
50 For spring over hip draw line
to V, locating the shoulder point.
U
down
3^ waist and }i inch.
49 Draw straight
inch.
24 Square up from U and A. 25 V is located on lines from 26 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X J^ inch and lower at point 1 the same.
used only to obtain the front cenand to check the blade measure.
is
ter of the waist
56
1/12 breast.
—
—
2,
55
—width of back.
to
^
53 Apply length and
1^
inches for seams) (12J/2). front of armhole.
blade (with
A
W
—
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9
line
inch
;
To Draft. 1
draw
^
^
9 inches.
16^
;
62 The depth of scye also,
and
in
is
on the height and width system cases is more reliable than
many
measures. 63
The V-18-19
lines give
normal or military height.
.
VEST
4
§
Dress Vest Diagram 54 4.
The measures
are taken over the Vest always.
Waist
36 inches. 32 inches.
Blade (with 1^ inches for seams added) IZyi in.
Strap
12 inches.
Depth of scye
9
inches.
Over shoulder Opening
17 inches.
Natural waist
16^
inches.
Breast
25 inches.
Full length
19 inches.
Height
Form and
The
32
Add
42 breasts.
Square both ways from A or 4. 2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3
B
4
A is half way between 3 and 4.
5
This
to 3 is 1/3 breast of height
35
36
39
is
C
to
D
is
1/3 breast
inches
(9^).
40 41
42
the proportional, and includes
A to C is one-fourth height, 7
3^
and Syi inches. all
allowances.
and }4 '"ch for
—on "3rds"— (6)
length.
43
44
seat line.
45
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9
A
to
E
is
the Full Length of Back.
B and A for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 C to G is }i inch; draw line F to G and down to D. 10
F
is
half
between
11
14
From the B to H is
15
H
16
B
13
line just
inside of
half the full breast
B
measure
to
H.
measure (18).
to
K
is
blade (with
1^
21
22 23
24 25
26 27 28 29 30
is
K— front
inches for seams) (12>^).
X^
inch,
and lower
at point
M
O-M.
on
line
%
52
inch
A
to
outlet.
R
B
to
K
and
^
will
W.
to
V
W
—
;
;
^
%
%
1
}i inch,
A
and
to 7
to
E
R
and
point.
the same.
From B up apply depth of scye measure and }i inch (9^) to A in normal attitude will meet line A.
V
to 5 (20)
to 17.
J is 3 inches always when made up will cover the dress shirt about 1 inch on each side.
55
I to
56
V
;
to 21
inch;
1
is
draw guide
line
through
57 Shape from 21, rounding slightly to
;
1/12 up from
no
;
(26J4).
Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. This gives the proportional height of shoulders. is
nothing at S
to
—
Apply opening and 54 Draw lines from C
;
Rise at
A
normal attitude
53
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on "12ths" —and Q to R is 1^ inches square up to S, ^ inch. K to T is inch T to U is 1/12 breast. Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U and A.
Y
for fullness held in over the blade.
%
of armhole.
half
1
48 49 51
way between B and K. 19 to M is i<^ inch— width of Back. 20 Square up to O, and down to N. i8
46 47
50
to I is 2 inches, center of breast.
17 Square up from
L L
drawn
is
inch above
meet line 4-V, less inch. Apply over shoulder measure and }i inch B to and K to Z, when normal, meet line F-V. Z is 1J4 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is inch less than S to X. Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding j4 in. over Z. B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual. Square from K through 4 to 17. 4 to 5 is 3^ waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. inch. 2 to 44 is 1 inch square down to 3 inch. G to P is J^ waist and 4 to 16 is Iji inches. Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. For spring over hip draw line K through 16. inch for spring. From P down add Apply length and 1^4 inches, A to R and V to 7 in
38
1
^
34 Apply strap measure, and
37
To Draft.
inch
j/i
33 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from
5 feet 6 inches.
Sizes, 33 to
attitude, normal.
31
58 The opening
is
J.
J.
usually about a }A inch above waist.
59 Shape bottom as shown, or otherwise.
60
Add
a yi inch to the right side for a stand.
The collar is full 2 inches wide over largest part. 62 The double-breasted is made by reducing a J^ inch
61
from 63 7 to 9
is
5
and
^
which makes the center
7,
inch
;
5 to 12
is
2 inches.
64 9 to 10 and 12 to 13 are each
^
inch.
line.
ยง4
VEST
VEST
ยง4
1
VEST
4
§
Double-Breasted Vests Diagram 55 The measures
5.
Breast
^
are taken over the Vest always.
Waist
36 inches. 32 inches.
Blade (with l}i inches for seams added) 12^ in.
Strap
12 inches.
Depth of scye
Over shoulder 17 Opening 11>4
inches.
Natural waist
inches.
Full length
Height
Form and
attitude, normal.
Sizes, 33 to
42
inches.
Square both ways from
3
4 5
6 7
B
is
A
or
A
to
E
a line
J4 inch less than S to X. a guide line from point 1 to T.
— 19
inches.
F
1
^
15
H to
16
B
to
I is
K
;
1^
17 Square up from 18 19
L L
is
to
half
M
1^
K— front
>4 inch
23
Q K
to to
R T
is
Ij/^
is
1
to
U
is
1/12 up from
M
on
14 inch
above
A
for spring.
(26M). 55 Apply opening and 56 Draw lines from C
is
up
57
to S, yi inch.
1/12 breast.
line
V
to 21
58 7 to 8
point.
is
is
to nothing at
33 Shape the back as shown; draw
S
;
line
to 7
and
to
E
R
and
;
7 to 9
is
to 7
to J (12).
the same. the same.
2J4 inches; 5 to 12
is
60 9 to 10
is
}i inch; 12 to 13
the same.
Draw
V
V
34 inch.
1>4 inches is
61
and
to 17.
59 5 to 11
a line from
V
is
through J to
13.
64 This completes the collar Vest.
No-Collar Vest
0-M.
no outlet. from B to
A
ji inch,
N.
R
62 For collar Vest take out a 34 F at J. 63 Shape from 21 through 13 to bottom.
From B up
Add
%
From P down add
of armhole.
apply depth of scye measure and yi inch (9>4) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 31 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade.
32
52
K
16.
to
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X >^ inch and lower at point 1 the same.
Y
through
line
U
30
to 3, J^ inch.
A
24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder and A. 25 V is located on lines from 26 Draw lines from S to U and F to V.
29
down
on
—width of back. T
square
fish
inches; square
inch;
;
54 Apply length and 1J4 inches,
20 Square up to O, and down to N. 21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths"— and 22
inch
is 1
inches for seams) (123^).
way between B and K.
is
1.
48 G to P is >4 waist and J4 of an inch. 49 4 to 16 is 134 inches; draw a straight line from 50 3 to P and 3 to 16. 51 For correct spring over the hip, draw line from
53 For small waist take out a
inches, center of breast.
blade (with
is
to point
1 is
the blade measure.
47 2 to 44
is half between B and A for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 C to G is inch draw line F to G and down to D. 13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18).
10
to point
39 Draw 40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J4 in- over Z. 41 B to 2 is J/^ breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. 42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 44 4 to 5 is half waist, less }/2 inch. 45 Square down from 5 to 7. 46 The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check
—
Back
F-V.
V
4.
the Full Length of
is
line
from line K. from V through Z
Draw
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9
when normal, meet
inch.
W and
lj4 inches
38
1/3 breast
—
is
27
on "3rds" and 3>^ inches (9j/2). B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and Syi inches. A is half way between 3 and 4. This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 inch for length. C to D is 1/3 breast on "3rds" (6) seat line.
2 4 to
K to Z, 36 Z
6 inches.
To Draft. 1
^
25 inches. breasts.
K to V
^
9 inches.
16^
feet
5
34 Apply strap measure, and inch A to R and in normal attitude will meet line 4-V, less 35 Apply over shoulder measure, and inch B to
6.
For a No-Collar Vest add a is
For double it is
W.
%
inch to 21
;
no
V
taken out over the breast. breasts, when there is no seam in the front, best to take out a f^ at the pocket to hold in
the bottom.
1
VEST
§4
Vest, Frock Lapel Diagram 56 7.
The measures
Breast
are taken over the Vest always.
Waist
36 inches. 22 inches.
Strap
12 inches.
Over shoulder 17 Opening 11^
inches.
Natural waist
inches.
Full length
1
3
5
6 7
12^
16;^4 inches.
25 inches. 5 feet 6 inches.
Sizes, 33 to
42
breasts.
B
^
—
9
A F
E
to
B and
—
;
H
B
to
H
to
I is
16
B
to
K
is
is
half the full breast
1^
L L
measure (18).
inches, center of breast.
blade (with 1^4 inches for seams) (12>4). front of armhole.
17 Square up from
K—
way between B and K. inch— width of back. 20 Square up to O, and down to N. 18 19
is
to
38
V
lines
U, and
to
F
to
point.
Y
1/12 up from
is
30 From
B up
(9j/2) to
on
line
A
in
The
1/2
32
Add
J4 inch above
is
44 4 to 5
down from
to
1.
X.
inch.
3^2
5 to 7.
B
46 The measure from
4~ 2 to 44 48
to 2,
K, 4 and
5
is
only used to
G
to
P
is
inch
1
;
3^ waist
is
down
square
and
^
3^ inch to
3.
of an inch.
49 4 to 16 is 134 inches; draw a straight line from 3 P and 3 to 16. 50 For correct spring over the hip, draw line from through 16. 51
From P down add
to
K
34 inch for spring.
52 For small waist take out a fish at line N.
55
Draw
56
V
A
to
R
and
V
to 7
will
meet
S
;
no
line
outlet.
'4
A
inch,
to
R
and
V
to J
a line
to 18
is
from C
to 7
and
E
1/12 breast, plus
3/2
to 17. inch.
57 Square forward from 18 by K. is 34 breast, plus 34 inch. a line from 2 through 19 to 20.
Draw
60 19 to 20
A.
is
is
62 5 to 11
is
63 9 to 10
is
1%.
134 inches; 7 to 9
the same.
;
is
drafted like a Coat collar, only 1-inch
stand; the leaf
65
is
234 inches 5 to 12 is the same. }i inch; 12 to 13 is the same.
64 The collar
for fullness held in over the blade. to nothing at
half waist, less
is
45 Square
61 7 to 8
0-M.
normal attitude
A
S
K
59
apply depth of scye measure and 5^ inch
31
inch
M
through Z to point
inch less than
58 18 to 19
V.
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 29
%
(1234).
;
from S
is
1
_
Draw
24
I
V
from
line
to point
54 Apply opening and
26
23
inch.
W and
(2634).
25
22
^
to
39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. in. over Z. 40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding is 3 inches. 41 B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves"; 2 to 42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 43 Square down from K through 4 to 17.
is 1/2
A to Q is 1/12 breast—on "12ths"—and Q to R is 1^ inches; square up to S, >4 inch. K to T is inch T to U is 1/12 breast. Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder V is located on lines from U and 4.
21
B
inches from line K.
53 Apply length and 134 inches,
half
M
less
the blade measure.
A, for front shoulder height.
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 12 C to G is J4 '"ch draw line F to G and down to D. 13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 15
4-V,
line
obtain the front center of the waist and to check
1
14
from B to W. R and K to V
K
Z is 134 37 Draw a
36
the Full Length of Back, 19 inches
is
half between
is
to
35 Apply over shoulder measure and ^4 inch to Z, when normal, meet line F-V.
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 10
meet
will
line
A
^
on "3rds" and Syi inches (9>^). B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and Syi inches. A is half way between 3 and 4. This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. A to C is one-fourth height, and inch for length. C to D is 1/3 breast on "3rds" (6) seat line. 1/3 breast
is
normal attitude
in
in.
9 inches.
To Draft. Square both ways from A or 4.
2 4 to 4
attitude, normal.
33 Shape the back as shown draw 34 Apply strap measure, and j4 inch ;
inches for
seams added) Depth of scye
Height
Form and
1^
Blade (with
The turn-over
is
is
IJ^ inches.
I34 inches.
VEST
10
VEST
ยง4
1
§
4
VEST
11
Corpulent Vest Diagram 57 The measures
8.
Breast
are taken over the Vest always.
Waist
52 inches. 561^ inches.
Blade (with 1>4 inches for 16i^ in. seams added)
Strap
ISyi inches.
Depth of scye 10>4 inche
Over shoulder Opening
22 inches.
Natural waist
16 inches.
Full length
Height
Form and
attitude, corpulent.
inches.
31 inches. 5
Sizes,
17^ ft.
10 inches.
42 to 52 breasts.
Square both ways from 4. 2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3/2 inches {12%). 3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches. 4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 5 This is the proportional, and inlucdes all allowances. 1
A
to
C
to
C
D
is
one-fourth height, and
%
inch for length.
on "3rds" (8^) seat hue. 8 Added to the normal waist gives correct length. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (20^). 7
1/3 breast,
is
F
15
16
B
12 13
14
^
H
K is blade
is
(with l}i inches for seam) up from B front of armhole. half way between B and K.
to
M
to
18 19
L L
is 1/2
20 Square up 21
22
A Q
to to
to
inch—width
of Back.
24
K
to
T
is
1
inch
25 Square up from
26
V
27
Draw
is
;
arm
shown by
the shaded part.
U is
U
to
V, locating the shoulder point.
1/12 breast.
U
and
from upper small S
K
V
K
39
Draw
40
V
41
Draw
V
a line from
to point
is
1
%
U, and
through Z to point
inch less than S to
from point
a guide line
F
to
28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 29 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same.
1
V.
1.
X
to T.
42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding }4 in. over Z. 43 B to 2 is i/< breast on "halves" 2 to is 3 inches. 44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 46 4 to 5 is J/2 waist on "halves" center of waist.
K
—
—
47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 48 2 to 44 is 1 inch square down to 3 a inch. ;
;
49 From
^
G go
out 1/16 inch for every size above 4 inches less than breast (3/2).
G
P
is
51 4 to 16
is
to
Draw
3/2
waist and ^4 inch.
134 inches.
straight lines
From P down add
from 3
to
P and
3 to 16.
K through
16.
a 34 inch for spring.
the amount from K (shaded part). from Z to 7 and E to 17. 57 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 58 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 59 Apply length and 1>4 inches, A to R and V to 7
56
Draw a
I
line
(32>4).
60 Apply opening and
4.
to
W
37 Apply over shoulder measure and ^4 inch B to and to Z; when normal, meet line F-V {22y4). 38 Z is 154 inches from line K.
55 Advance at
to
from
5,
54
T
located on lines lines
as
from the 0-N line, and 1/12 up from M. apply depth of scye measure and yi inch
;
52
than breast; to straighten the front run, take
out under the
incii
53 For spring over hip draw line
O.
23 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches
it
^
34 Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. 35 Apply strap measure, and to }i inch A to R and (16>^) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 36 Add j4 inch above A to nothing at S no outlet.
50
Q is 1/12 breast —on "12ths," and R is 13/ inches; square up to S, J^ inch.
less
is
(11) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 32 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 33 Obtain point S from half s-s and shape S to X.
(16i/^).
—
17 Square
From B up
;
is half between B and 4, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. C to G is inch, draw line F to G and down to D. From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. B to is half the full breast measure (26). H to I is 2 inches, center of breast.
10 1
Y
31
;
To Draft.
6
30
61
V
62
Draw
to 21
is I
line
63 Take out a
inch
;
^
from 21
F
inch,
when no
in the
A to R and V
to J (16j4)-
collar J4 inch.
to first button
and
finish as rep.
pocket of 1/16 for extra
sizes.
1
VEST
12
§4
Clerical Vest Diagram 58 9.
the Vest always.
29
Y
30
From B up
32 inches.
Blade (with 1J4 inches for seams added) IZ^^ in.
12 inches.
Depth of scye
9 inches.
31
The
The measures are taken over
Breast
36 inches.
Waist Strap
Over shoulder Height
17 inches.
6 inches.
5 feet
is
>4 inch
from the
O-N
{9y2) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. j/S inch is for fullness held in over the blade.
Natural waist 16)4 inches.
32 Shape the Back as shown
25 inches.
33 Apply strap measure, and
Full length
and 1/12 up from M.
line,
apply depth of scye measure and }i inch
draw
;
%
from B to W. R and K to
line
inch
A
to
V
1
meet line A-V less J4 inch. 34 Apply over shoulder measure and {}i inch) B to and K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V. 35 Z is 134 inches from line K.
2 4 to
36
Draw
37
V
38
Draw
Form and
attitude, normal.
Sizes, 33 to
42 breasts.
To Draft. Square both ways from A or 4. B is 1/3 breasts on "3rds" and Syi inches (9^). 3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. 4 A is half way between 3 and 4.
and includes all allowances. one-fourth height, and J4 "ich for length. 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat line.
normal attitude
in
will
W
V
a line from
to point
1 is
through
Z
a guide line from point
to point
S
^4 inch less than
to
to T.
1
5 This
is
the proportional,
39 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding
6
A
to
C
is
40
7
C
to
D
is
8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 10 1
12 13
14
F
half between
is
B and A,
15
H
to
16
B
to
I is
K
-;
half
to D. to
2 inches, center of breast. blade (with
is
1%
K — front
from
inches for seams) (IZyi).
of armhole.
way between B and K. 19 to M is i^ inch— width of Back. 20 Square up to O, and down to N. 18
21
22 23
is
half
A to Q is Q to R is K to T is
1/12 breast lJ/2 1
Draw
lines
—on
inch
up
to S,
^
inch.
T to U is 1/12 breast. U to V, locating the shoulder point. lines from U and A.
;
from S
to
U, and
F
to
V.
at
X
J^ inch,
and lower
41 This
is
normal blade and independent of the
down from J4 waist
is
K
through 4 to
is
over Z.
3 inches. actual.
17.
—on "halves"—center of
waist.
44 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure, v, 45 2 to 44
46
G
to
is
P
1
inch
3^ waist
47 Draw straight
;
square
and
%
down
to 3; yi inch.
inch; 4 to 16
is
lj4 inches.
from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. 48 For spring over hip draw line K through 16. 49 From P down add }i inch for spring. 50 Apply length and lj4 inches, A to R and V lines
at point
51
Draw
52
V
lines
to 18 is
to 7
53 18 to 19
is
from
C
to 7
and
E
to 17.
1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 34 breast less
%
inch.
54 Shape the gorge and front; also bottom. 55 Leave a button stand in front }i inch wide. clerical and military collars should be cut as in
56 All
27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 28 Rise
in.
is
(26K).
"12ths," and
inches; square
24 Square up from 25 V is located on 26
H.
^ K
2
43 4 to 5
4.
draw line F to G and down just drawn inside of B measure the full breast measure (18).
inch,
line
17 Square up
L L
I
J4 breast on "halves"; 2 to
to
42 Square
for front shoulder height.
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and
C to G is From the B to H is
B
1.
X.
1
the same.
the diagram
on military
collar.
57 Cut vest collar yi inch larger than linen
collar.
VEST
13
VEST
14
1
10.
Draft a Vest or use a model forepart.
V
2 21 to
is
).)
mark
inch;
all
\\
around the "left" fore-
part from V, and at breast and waist lines.
3
I
to J
4 Draw
a
is
^
inch
;
all
and
lap
Add
a seam in the
8
V
26
is
V
at 19
13.
and 6 to
it
Yz inch
11.
The Button
14 26 to 20
7.
a J4 '"ch at J
and
^
side, the
fill
in at 7.
shown on diagram. Piece, or under side.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Mark around
15
and breast.
12.
16 3.
2 inches; 17 to 18
The Collar.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The inches
inch.
10 Shape from 26 to 17, touching front of scye at
is
is
1%
inches.
Shape as
represented.
6.
about is
taken out on each
is
the top and back of "right" forepart.
134 inches.
9 From side seam to 17
AV
12 Shape bottom as
the same.
around the "right" forepart and remove.
7
to
is
a straight line through J
5 Reverse the forepart
6 Mark
6
5 to
§4
in 1
front,
collar has an
when
finished,
inch back of point
When made taken out.
V on
opening of 2
and
is
buttoned
the right side.
with a seam in the center, no V's are Finish as represented.
The International Gutting School's
System By
L.
GIBSON
New York
First Edition, 1909,
Cutting
of
One Thousand Copies
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Chicago
Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies
Third Edition, 1913,
One Thousand Copies
TROUSERS (PART FIVE)
Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 by L. Gibson, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C.
ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED
(Printed
ia
the United Stales)
;
TROUSERS
ยง5
Trousers 'Jhe question of masculine nether garments
1.
far greater importance, not merely
but
from a
is
The custom
of
sociological,
point of view, than most people
political
would be willing
from a
teresting corollary in the history of national enlighten-
denotes the barbarism of the ages which preceded the of chain armor and steel must have been) followed our minds with feudalism,
they
next, and are associated in tournaments and the medieval age.
sisted that they
They declared
mind had sup-
planted might and rule by the superiority of brute force.
may
teristic of
silk stockings
of the eighteenth
be looked upon as in keeping with an age of
courtliness and dignity.
a period when
The trousers, alas, are characmen have no longer time nor
inclination to devote to the cultivation of that "politesse
du coeur" which contributes so much
to
sweeten
is
but one court in Europe, namely, that of
difficult as
That
it
positions
fashion in the year
blue-blooded associates in
its
those days ate, and especially drank, heavily, and were
it
is
stockings, so dear, not only to the
and
to the signers
of the Declaration of Independence, but likewise to the to swollen limbs, even
if
they belonged to the anointed
was that George IV, as prince regent, his Dukes of York, Clarence, Cumberland and
result
brothers, the the
is
III
of
Prussia,
of pantaloons, which
was
and many other
modern form
at the time a source of
no end
of ridicule and entertainment to caricaturists.
was not
fashion,
until the fourth
decade of the nineteenth
when heavy drinking by the classes went out of that an endeavor was made to revive the knee
breeches as articles of masculine
true
all
;
fit
and quite easy, to cut a pair of one of the above mentioned
in either
but to cut a pair of trousers to
three positions
is
fit
of course impossible
equally ;
hence
know how much he must
attire.
Much
confusion and valuable time has been lost
evolve
new systems on
the foundations of the old ones,
or to accept the theories of others that no improvement
could possibly be made.
Before entering into further explanations best to
more
make
it
will be
a diagram, then the different points can be
We
readily taken up.
will therefore
proceed with
the
French princes, who afterwards reigned as
equally illustrious personages, adopted the
It
possible,
almost unnecessary to add that some are greatly
4.
Measurements of Trousers 5.
century,
is
accepting old theories as absolute facts and trying to
Louis XVIII, Charles X, and Louis Phillipe, also King
William
provid-
and general style or "hang" are worthy of the trade and a credit to those constituting it.
old Puritan element of America, were scarcely suitable
Fredeirck
difficulty in trouser cutting is that of
able fitting qualities
in
character to swell the legs.
Knee breeches and
and truly
so perplexing
each when cutting one pair to fit all three posiwhich ordinary trousers must do. Perhaps no trousers are in all positions perfect, but
consequently afflicted with gout and other maladies of a
early presidents of the United States
is
superior to the majority, while just a few in their adapt-
1801, mainly as the result of drink.
Old-world royalty and
produce
to
the difficulty for the cutter to
regiments.
;
upon
standing, sitting and walking.
tions,
in
most
a simple pair of trousers.
The
3.
allot for
came
very often under-
fact remains that in the opinion of
ing for the different positions assumed by the wearer in
Scottish chieftains and the officers of the various highland
Sussex
The
tailor is called
truest sense, content themselves with kilts, namely, the
trousers or pantaloons
a per-
man who would
experienced and practical cutters no garment that the
as well in
and the
art of trouser cutting is
estimated.
James, where one may see men who wear neither trousers nor breeches, but who, "sans culottes" in the
The
constituted
rebuke to the
Trouser Cutting The
2.
trousers that will
St.
trousers
that the
efifectual
himself above his fellows by reason of shape.
like to raise
human
intercourse.
There
most
petual and
the sixteenth and seventeenth
and, in one word, the elegancies of the
The knee breeches and
were a symbol of equality and democracy,
and that they had a leveling tendency.
centuries demonstrated that the fine arts, the sciences,
century
to enforce in
country farther west.
The breeches made
The hose and trunks of
was wont
People, forgetful of the royal origin of trousers, in-
the absence of clothing for the nether limbs
plate (uncomfortable
to
Russia, but which would not have been tolerated in any
ment, progress and development.
crusades.
was found impossible
it
do away with them, save by the enactment of sumptuary laws, such as Peter the Great
to believe.
Indeed, the fashion in this respect constitutes an in-
Thus
of wearing trousers, however, had mean-
while become so universal that
The method
of
measuring used
long experience, and as this
is
is
the result of
for the guidance of students
very minutely described. In the first place, a cutter should have confidence in himself, as the show of nervousness or lack of method will create an unfavorable it is
impression on the customer.
A
lack of
method
to
proceed
is
usually the cause of
the confusion, hence a cutter should follow the suggestions
and the rotations as explained, which
will result in
TROUSERS
§ 5
becoming methodical and expert and free from all While measuring, no stops should be made, nor any familiarity displayed toward the customer. his
confusion.
—
Measuring Trousers. When ready to take the 6. measures for the trousers, have someone to put down the measures ; otherwise have paper and pencil ready and do it yourself. A loose sheet of paper should be used, so that notes for the cutter can be transcribe
it
A
in the book.
put down, and afterwards footstool should be used
and
placed before the customer with an invitation to "Please
—
10. The Fourth Measure. Stout or corpulent is taken over the corpulent part, or the stomach, about 4 inches down from the waistband. This measure is used only when stout.
11.
The
Fifth Measure.
— Scat or hip
is
taken over
the largest part of the seat opposite X.
Before taking
this measure, place both your hands, on the hips of the customer and press gently, requesting the customer to "Please put your heels and toes together."
one on each
side,
up on this footstool." Always stand on the righthand side of the customer and take all the lengths and leg measures on the right leg. The First Measure. The outside length is taken 7. from point D, which should be the top of the hip bone always (not from top of trousers), to point B, the sole of step
—
the shoe, near the front of the heel (see Fig. 1).
locate it
fleshy,
for you. 8.
is
If the
and it is hard for you to the top of the hip bone, have the customer locate
customer should be very
The Scond Measure
the inside length and
is
taken from close up in the fork or crotch point
C
to
E, the sole of the shoe, near the front of the heel.
When
taking this measure, the trousers should be
pulled up close in front
hold of the top of the
—not
on the
Take
fly.
sides
—by
taking
the end of the tape
between the index and second finger of the left hand and place it snug up in the center of the fork or crotch, from the front; with the right hand measure the length If for any reason you are in 'doubt of the to the sole. result, take it the second time, and if too much at variance, even a third time; the two nearest of the three must be the correct ones. Sometimes a measuring devise is
used and,
if
not too sharp,
is
Beginners sometimes take the leg length too short. against this serious defect, measure from the
To guard
fork point
C down
to the ground and deduct
the quantity obtained. 1
inch, leaves 32,
Thus
:
Ground
1
inch from
length, 33
;
deduct
This
is
a part which should never be overlooked, as
otherwise the measure
measure
in the
be
will
too
Take
loose.
same manner as described
this
in the waist
While holding both ends of the tape in front with hand adjust the tape behind over the largest part of the seat; push up the contents
the right hand, with the left
will
important to have the length measure the trousers hang smoothly and possibly
correct, as
It is
make
of the hip pockets.
save an alteration.
This measure
having them changed
Many
customers are averse to after they are made, being under the impression that spoils the 9.
the waist.
Standing
in
hand follow the waistband around with the left hand carry the tape to the front, and with the thumb of the left hand resting on the first inch, the thumb outward, carry the tape past meeting
it
;
medium close measure, taking up above the hip bone, but on the trousers.
with the right hand in a it is
(See Fig.
down.
1,
should
and on the
While the customer is
the tape in the right to the back,
close,
point D.)
Call out the figures or
be
taken,
like
with the
level
all
others, a
Call out
floor.
the measure.
fit.
The Third Measure
care that
medium
it
front of the customer, raise the vest in front and with
it
1
measure.
which gives the length of the trouser
leg.
it
Fig.
a help.
mark
heels and toes
is
together
standing in the closed position,
and
erect,
take
hold
of
the
trousers with both hands on the sides, opposite the knees,
and
outward to see if the customer is bowlegged. amount can easily be determined by the eye the opening between inch, 1>^ or 2 inches or more
pull
If so, the
as
1
—
the knees. Call out or
mark down
the amount, but only in inches
or as "lyi inches straight."
Remember,
Do
not call out bowleg.
the eye must take
customer spreads
his legs; if
it
in quickly
he does,
it
before the
must be gone
TROUSERS
over again
if
there
When
is
done,
this
bow
the least tendency to
is
tell
the customer,
leg.
"Now you may
stand as you please."
The
12.
Sixth Measure
The
the thigh.
is
thigh
is
taken right below the trunk or body on the right leg, close up to the fork or crotch, and is taken close or
(marked O,
actual measure of the thigh It is
thighs.
peg
is
used only
Fig. 1).
extremely large or extremely small
in
can also be used to gain an idea how large a desired by measuring the peg or amount of width It
opposite thigh.
The Seventh Measure is the knee, taken 13. around the knee, the width desired by the customer, or the style.
Always get the customer's idea about
and
the knee
—
bottom measures whether he desires a close, medium or and follow as near style as possible. loose width The Eighth Measure is the bottom, taken over 14.
—
the shoe
from
the tape meeting in <nci\.
or
on the heel to in front, front over the instep the width de-
just above the sole
to small
it
is
necessary to take the length to knee,
knee and to
as also the size of the leg
calf,
over the draivers, at the knee
— the small knee— and the
completes
This
16.
measurements
the
trousers and you announce to the customer
:
the
In studying the above measurements, the to notice is the
seams, are entered
waist, seat, knee
all
first,
and bottom,
urements, as the result greatly dependent
Note should be made of these
point A.
at
di-
Find out the style of pockets whether side or top, and how many hip pockets. If peg top is wanted, in what degree, as peg or Sometimes full peg, etc. Cuffs, belt loops, or flaps. a person wishes a very low "Rise" or height of waist, if so, mark down low waist or Rise; but the outside length must be taken from the top of the hip bone
^
always.
A large person may call for a "High Waist" or Rise. Such must be written down, but the measures taken as usual from the hip bone. Toe-out or slew-footed should also be noted.
Construction Lines.
17.
— In the matter of construc-
tion lines different systems use
struction
lines.
It
different lines as con-
obvious that every system must
is
much
diff'erence of opinion as
most appropriate, the
best and
As most
line.
practical
men
to
There has been which would be the
side, or center,
will
or front
admit that they
may
be
placed at the sides or the center of the draft with equally
good
provided that the working of the system
results,
harmony with cut.
first
point
distinctive feature of this system.
length measures, side and
and
in the
all
width measures,
order named.
—good,
bad and indifferent
—
is
on them.
trousers, such as right dress;
if
mark
out or
so, call
"R. D."
Sometimes very wide over the
hip, curving consider-
drawn
to
it
by the great difference between the waist and seat meas-
much
as 8 inches difference
—while
the normal
should be about 4 inches and, as stoutness increases,
Such
will
be designated "curved hips."
A note
made of it on the measure blank. The hips may be "narrow," usually on
less.
should
the
two
;
every instance. it
and
square,
tailor's
can be applied with a
rules are reduced to simple
common
and working methods, easy to use all anatomical and scientific
complicated
all
calculations
and still conforming to measurements and calculations. It
was our
intention to cite proof in the support of
our statements from the numerous investigators.
But was worked out without consulting any of these authorities it has since been compared with them and it stands the test of any of them and we think far
may
be a small seat or what
"Flat" seat, which
is
is
surpasses
all
of them.
Therefore,
stout or fat
commonly
called
generally accompanied by "Promi-
would only be a waste of space and them out.
The majority of
19.
cutters of experience will cer-
by far the most followers, provided, how&wtr, that this center line is a center Hue and placed in the center. Lots of systems have what they term a center line but in fact is not a center
line.
The
definition
nent Dress," where the customer carries himself for-
in the center.
ward
drawn down
at that particular point.
it
the reader's time to bring
tainly agree that the center line system has
men, indicated by small seat measure compared to the waist and corpulent measures. It
—These are
the
as this system
ably opposite the hip joint, attention will be
— as
is
Accuracy in that it can be used with equal success on tall and slim and short and stouts and relied on to give the correct amount in Simplicity in that
While taking the measures the eye should have observed any peculiarities about the customer regarding the
be
wide
vergencies and taken care of in drafting.
form of the individual for which it 18. Accuracy and Simplicity.
Great care should be taken to secure accurate meas-
ure
either higher or lower.
ing with that of the figure and in
order in which the various measures are
obtained; the second, that leg
much
is
of
''That
thank you."
;
dress also varies
be arranged to produce an outline of the garment agree-
calf.
all
The
This should be distinguished from "full" or "large dress." Sometimes the hip bone comes straight up and very
have some fixed points to go out from.
style.
Breeches are measured for the same as trousers (including the length of leg seam). 15.
In addition
§ 5
It
of a center line must be that is
naturally inferred that
the center of the forepart
it
if
a
it
is
line is
should be placed
;
TROUSERS
5
§
where the center of the
where the
leg, or, as at present,
center crease would be. it would be expected that the center Back part would be where the crease is.
such be the case,
If
can be called a center
it
This, however, implies also that the
system.
line
room, or what
line
They will be of underside upwards to
is
where
should be
it
Back seam
when
cutting
it;
if
it will get there just the same when finished when the trouble commences. The Center Line, therefore, has many ad-
is
20.
vantages over side or front line systems. a matter
of
distributing
the
right
in
doing
and
LI
It is
then only
quantity
on each
—as
actually
it
—too
tight.
ing perfectly straight,
take place the defect
fit.
hang smooth when standbut as soon as any movements
Trousers cut that way
will
shown
is
on the other hand the
If
is
increasing the fork to counter-
but that does not give the same ease and
it;
is
from the fork point the round of the seat, and the too close
Some systems advocate balance
and J are the body
;
at once.
seat
line
is
excessively
crooked or brought nearer to the side seam from the center line, the seat
room (or diameter)
will be excessive
by following nature's divisions. That rule has been adopted in this system.
and the trousers when on will appear full about the fork, while on the back of the thighs and the top of the leg seams a quantity of surplus material will be formed,
This brings us to the consideration of the "Rise" or
most unsightly
side of the center line,
so, the best results
will be obtained
The
is
all
the most perfect
scientific
measurements.
mechanism and he
grows by proportion as understood by the is
the forepart
certainly
tailors; hence,
only a question of finding the divisions by which
he increases or decreases
Some
systems use
heights.
It
seat
j/^
and a fraction for the
has been found that 1/3 and
Z'/z
The
—
measured, for
inches
is
the figure
is
well
known
that an actual
measure of the "Rise" cannot always be used, as some persons differ in the height of the waist.
True, the
measure will give the actual height and in some must be followed in preference to the proportional Jieights; but it also must be admitted that it is sometimes difficult to get a correct height by measure ; further, it has been proven that this part of the human body
all
in
line
be
will
found
to
measurements; the fork also
scientific
be found to
In fact every measure and every division and proare based on
on
scientific
common
it
trousers, coat, or vest,
sense and experience, as well as
as a rule
is
governed by the wearer and
much as long as suspenders are worn; when a belt is substituted, the "Rise" must in all cases come over the hip bone. does not matter but
22.
Seat Angle.
from points
line
—The correct
J to
T
location of the seat
and the height above the the
fore-
degree of angle
is of great importance, as given not only provides room for the insertion of the trunk of the body, but also forms the degree of length
part
in the
back when
positions
standing to provide for the changed
assumed when sitting and walking. is what is termed too straight,
If the seat line
standing,
it
will
is
when
the
seated.
division used in this system as applied to normals
been found to work satisfactory in
sizes.
In other words, when the person back should be on a horizontal
sits
down, the height
line
with the
rise in
cient ease over the seat.
Size of the
Fork.—The
size of the fork
(as
the effect of the change of the seat angle just mentioned may explain) is not, as many cutters imagine, the quantity
and J and U.
I
This quantity in systems of cutting is merely a matter of convenience dependent upon the amount of the seat angle or slope and the position of the bottom of the seams.
The system
here given would
point
U
on the seat
The
fit
equally as well the
Q were even with and V, and the same amount of slope maintained
forepart advanced until point
I
and
line.
actual size of the
fork
from the front of the forepart opposite the seat line B-2;
is
the distance across
to the
when
back or seat seam and back
the forepart
are laid in position, with the fork line running horizontaltouching. This accounts for the ly and points I and
U
fact that a comparatively
fork,
that
when
be found about 3 inches less
and no excessive draw from the knees up, and with no excessive surplus of cloth in the lap, and suffi-
leg
or basic principles.
The "Rise"
is
measured between the points J and
agree with this method.
portion used in this system, be
be stated that
of experiment be
a measure be taken from the fork
to corpulents has
23.
with
correspont will
if
may
sitting, it
may by way
front,
changes the least in length or height. seat
is
The
and
actual
cases
The
when
than the measure between the same points
'
It
necessary at the back of the seat, to pro-
the extent of the length
figure
Rise.
is
vide length of the seat
point of the under side upwards to the waistband
in the different parts.
the correct one. 21.
appearance and unnecessary for the
previously been stated that the height above
As has
quantity given, 1/3 seat and 3y2 inches, will be
found to correspond with
Man
in
provision of ease in either sitting or walking.
height of waist.
it
fork will appear
it
not there,
then
providing points
termed the diameter of the trousers,
is
decreased.
or seat seam should be in the middle or center of the Back. There is where it will be when finished. 'Therefore, there is
K;
to point
retained in the position as on normal trousers
Equally of the
drawn nearer
and a straight
average.
crooked seat admits of a small of a larger fork than the
seat
:
TRurSERS
—
Openness and Closeness of Legs. The correct 24. "hang" of the legs of the trousers at leg and side seams is dependent principally upon what is termed the opentrouser correctly cut in this respect will,
if
held up
by the side seams (as trousers are usually tested), stand apart at the bottoms the
when
divided
the figure
same amount as the
legs are
standing in the ordinary po-
is
have been cut too open, that
If the trousers
amount than
smaller
wards
necessary from
is
to \', they will,
when
N
to
is,
Q
with a
and out-
held up as previously de-
more than the naand when on will be forced
apart at the bottom
scribed, stand
tural separation of the legs,
inwards and npzvards by the
with the result that
legs,
bulging and folds will appear at the top of the leg seams, while at the bottom the leg seam will appear short, as
though the measure taken was If the trousers
insufficient.
have been cut too
close, that
is,
with
excess of material on both top and under sides from
Q
the points
and
V
upwards, the defects will be the
opposite of those just described.
The
legs of
the trousers
from fork
touch
will
to
bottom when the trousers are held up by the side seams,
and when on, legs,
from the feet upwards to the fork. seams should hang fair from the hips with-
the legs
side
out bulge or break.
The
horizontal
excessive nor
fold
below the seat should not be
downwards
fall
There should be no
strain
to the fork.
on the back buttons, and
which
will
force
inwards upon the outside of the the
trousers
outwards and updiagonal
in
folds
at
the side .seams.
The to
realize
why
riding trousers
are carried open or apart
fit
pressure should be
—
— require
in
a
at fork
which the
more open
who
and leg seams when the
close together at the bottom.
insist
legs style
upon
feet are kept
felt at
the fork, bringing the
seam.
There should be no pressure at the top fly buttons, or between the front suspender buttons. There should be no undue strain 26. Sitting. upon the ball, or round of the seat, to the knees. The bottoms should not work upwards from the shoes more than about one inch. The length of seat should not work downward, causing a strain upon the back buttons. The top of the trousers in front should not uncomfortably press upon the stomach. The amount of material in the lap, and under the fold
—
knee should not be excessive.
—The
Walking.-
trousers should not
clini;
to
the knee, and strain towards the fork. not ride upwards from the heel. There should be no "flopping" at the bottom of the
They should legs
consideration of these facts will enable the stu-
of cut than those intended for gentlemen a clean
No
dress into undue prominence, and channeling at the seat
27. will press
wards, producing surplus length
lent
Good Fitting Trousers —There should be no folds between
the seat line should touch the hollow of the waist.
sition.
aji
Standing.-
The
ness of legs.
A
Points in 25.
seams.
Assuming the above
is
— — — —
that the trousers have been properly
made
the result of
The proper adjustment of the seat angle. Second The correct size and form of fork. Third The required slope or "Openness" of legs. Fourth The accurate height of "Rise." First
§ 5
TROUSERS
Cutting the Cloth When
56
cutting the cloth leave outlets
leg
seam and
seat
down
seam of the under
the inside sides, also
a turn-up, of from 2 to 3 inches, at the bottom of both top and under sides. 57 Make notches at the bottom, knee and seat lines of both top and under sides, to prevent twisting in
the
making up.
58 Previous to cutting always see that the nap or pile of the clolii (if any) is running downward. 59 32. Checked Material.— The pattern should be laid
on the cloth so that the lines match at side seam at least; inside seam should also match.
To Always read mencing
to draft
the
Draft
description
through before com-
it.
The measures needed
for a pair of trousers are as
(For measuring see measures for trousers). First measure is "Outside length." Second measure is "Inside length." Third measure is "The Waist." Fourth measure is "The Corpulency."
follows:
"The Seat" or Hip. "The Thigh." Seventh measure is "The Knee." Eight measure is "The Bottom." Fifth measure
is
Sixth measure
is
When
no corpulency, the fourth measure can be
left
out.
In studying these measurements the notice
is
28.
first
points to
the order in which they are obtained. Seat.
—The trousers are always drafted by the
seat measure.
The
divisions
used are units of the seat measure.
Only half of the trousers are drafted because the cloth is always cut on the double. For example, seat, 40 inches, would therefore be 20, which will be used on all divisions in the draft. Mark all letters on the draft as you proceed.
1
TROUSERS
§5
Trousers Normal Diagrams 60 and 61 Outside length 43^4 inches.
32>^ inches.
Inside length
36 inches. 40 inches.
Waist Seat or hip
To 1
A
to
2
B
to
B C
3 This
is
5
C
to
6
D
is
C
9
H
10
Go
38
R
to
X
is 3/2
Bottom
16 inches.
39
P
to
V
is
40
Q
to
W
41
Draw
42
Y
43
Draw
The Forepart.
Dkajft.
is
3>^ inches (10>4).
E
to
A
way oetween E
H
is
^
inch for a seam. and and C, and 2 inches up.
D and
E.
—on "halves." —on "8ths."
>^ seat
out y^ inch from inch; this
is
I,
and
in ]^ inch
Square up from H, locating 2 on
12
H
13
Draw
14
L
15
Go
16
18 19
20
to J
is
is
I,
making
to
K.
line B.
Yz inch (for 2 seams), square
a guide line
half
from
for the dress side.
1
17
allowances.
to I is >^ seat
^
from
K
to 11 for
way between C and
up
run of dress.
^
Normal waist 22 A to S is 1^
is
4 inches
less
This
inches.
is
than
;
bone.
30 Trace out the "Dress" and center
line.
Cut out the pattern.
The Backpart. 31
The white
part represents the forepart.
33
Add
34
O
35
Draw
to
M
and N. length of Backpart from N.
32 Extend lines O, B, L, J4 inch to is 1/6 seat
T
—on "6ths."
a straight line
from
36 From the forepart fork
to
T
T
Z
to
F
the same.
X
to
V.
to Z.
to G, or sweep.
to T. line to L.
2^
inches from
take out a >2 inch
;
V
K
to
S
at 10.
backpart). fly
and disfigures the 53 30.
—
is
1
inch from the point of
placed too high up
if
it
causes a draw
fly.
needed place it on the outon the inside, and 1/3 the distance down from the knee to bottom. Calves.
If calf is
side seam, nothing
Trousers —Wide Hips Diagram 63 This diagram represents the wide hip and the small or
flat
1/16
seat
such persons measure more around the seat
;
than they really are, proportional from front to rear. If the trousers are cut regular they will
from front
to rear,
trousers are drafted
from C
to I
U;
and
sides opposite C, in this
1
from
seat measure.
and
size less in the seat divi-
the difference
way
to side.
cutters get
is
added
to the
retaining the full width as
originally measured.
L is half way between C and I. On all sizes below 40 go in from L
J^ inch for every
size.
Point
For seat.
why some
7 to 9 inches difference in the waist
The
be too deep
and too narrow from side
This also accounts for
L
must be retained
way between C and
to J.
U is
from S
draw a
34 seat;
is
through
Z
54 The notch for the
sion
This completes the Forepart.
is
normal.
;
iiip
Y
W
Y
seat.
23 H-to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat by A. 24 Shape the fork K to I outer corner; and 25 Dress side from K to J^ inch above I inner corner. 26 The largest dress hollow (^ inch) is opposite H. 27 The seams from I should be straight 7y> inches down. 28 For "Prominent dress," allow J4 inch more on fork curve, as shown by the broken lines. 29 Shape the side seam from S the broken line shows a high
the
the length
is
M
;
to
46 The V extend down 1/6 of seat measure. 47 J to the curve of back fork is 1/24 seat by A. 48 U is J4 inch below line C-I. 49 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 50 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 51 In no case should A to S exceed 1;)4 inches. 52 Hollow outside seam slightly from F to T. 53 Notch at knee and seat or fork line {}i inch below on
^
21
is
forepart;
M
G
;
more than 3^ bottom. same; draw lines Y to and
^2 inch
a line from
and
and out
40 seat, yi inch for every size more; from L. and N. Square up and down from L, locating O, N to P is bottom less j^ inch; N to Q is the same. Draw a straight line from I to Q, locating R. to G is knee on "4ths" to R is the same. Draw lines C. G. P and I to R.
inches 2 to B, and 11 to F.
45 Apply waist measure and
I.
in yi inch for every size less than
M
Z
to
the actual "Rise" as measured.
is
the inside length,
is
all
1^
inch for seams
a line from
44 Z to 10
and includes
the proportional,
half
to
S7 Measure seat and
inches.
1/3 seat on "3rds" and
7 Square out from A, B, C,
8
21 inches.
20
is
C
4 From
Thigh (actual)
Knee
flat
trousers.
seat
I
draw
;
in the
same position or half T depends on L.
because point
line
from
T
to J, finish as ordinary
ยง 5
TROUSERS
T)!^-^ K
TROUSERS
10
DIAGRAM
ยง5
62
BOW- LEG TROUSERS
WIDE
DIAGRAM 63 HIPS, SMALL SEAT
5
§
TROUSERS
Trousers
— Bow-Leg
Diagram 62 Outside length
42^
Inside length
32/2 inches.
Waist
inches.
36 inches.
Bowleg
2 inches
To Draft. 1
A
to
2
B
to
B C
Seat or hip
40 inches.
38 From forepart fork
Thigh (actualj
21 inches.
39 Measure seat and
Knee
21 inches.
40
R
to
Bottom
16 inches.
41
P
to
}i inch
;
this is for the dress side.
51
Shape
46 47
W
Go
in y^ inch for every size less than
40
seat,
more from L. 16 Square up and down from L, locating O, 17 N to 4 is 2 inches, the full amount of Bow 18 Draw a line from 4 to L. The center line. Yi inch for every size
24 25
A
to
H
to the
S
4 inches
V/z inches.
is
This
is
curve of front fork
K to I, from K to
26 Shape the fork 27 Dress side
than
leg.
;
30 For "Prominent Dress," allow 54 inch more on fork; curve as shown by the broken lines. 31 Shape side seam from S; the broken line shows a high hip bone.
35
Add
36
O
37
Draw
lines
O, B, L,
M
and N.
34 inch to length of Backpart
to
T
is
1/6 seat
—on
"6ths."
a straight line from
T
to J.
from N.
C
side at
60
bow
legs.
legs are usually e.,
i.
accom-
they are wide from
and very shallow from front
to rear.
35.
Flat Seat.
61
When
a person
— So-called, is
less,
and add
to the
inch on front and backpart.
a 34
under curved hips,
will
if
treated as described
produce a clean
fit.
otherwise normal built (not curved
inch on seat seam opposite J/2 draw a line from T to H and reshape to U. Slew Footed.— Or toe-out. Establish the center add to V on backpart line and width of bottom 34 inch, or the amount over the instep the crease line is of? shape from the knee down deduct from
hips) take off 34 to 1 1
62
36.
;
;
;
;
W
the
same amount.
63 The forepart will follow the new backpart. notch the bottom, and they will fall right when finished. 64 37. Knock-Knee. For Knock-Knees, the process of
—
the
65
34 Extend
inches.
ducing too deep a fork.
Cut out the pattern.
The Backpart.
— How
39 Draft the pattern by one size
1/12 seat by A.
inch above I inner corner. J/^ 28 The largest dress hollow (y% inch) should be opposite H. 29 The seams from I should be straight 7j/' inches down.
Curved Hips. side to side
outer corner; and
32 This completes the Forepart.
U.
to
notches.
58 In such cases the seat measure will be too large, pro-
seat.
normal. is
S exceed 1J4
panied by curved hips,
;
less
to
56 This will absolutely cure any case of
N
;
is
A
mark
without extra manipulations; trace the center line
19 4 to P is 34 bottom less inch 4 to Q is the same. 20 Draw a straight line from I to Q this locates R. 21 Measure J/l width of knee from R to G. 22 Draw lines from C to G and P.
Normal waist
seam through corner of forepart
seat
through front and backpart.
and out
and
by A.
seat,
52 Shape outside and inside seams and
57 34.
M
1/24
is
55 Notch knee and bottom and they will hang correct
—
22)
curve of back fork
34 inch below line C-I.
is
54 If narrow trousers, a calf should be put on.
;
%
;
;
H
15
inch
53 In no case should
Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 12 H to J is 3/2 inch (for 2 seams) square up to K. 13 Draw a guide line from K to for run of dress. 14 L is half way between C and L
the same.
U
45
11
is
J to the
3>^ inches.
%
Y
to
50
44
is
/
G
inch for seams;
3^2
seat.
49
1/3 seat on "3rds" and
— —
1/16
is
48
is
3 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 4 From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 5 C to E is the inside length, and j4 inch for a seam. 6 D is half way between E and C, and 2 inches up. 7 Square out from A, B, C, D and E. 8 C to H is J/2 seat on "halves." 9 H to I is "/^ seat on "8ths." 10 Go out inch from I and in inch from 1, making
U
inches 2 to B, and 11 to F.
more than /z bottom. is the same draw lines Y to VV and X to V. Q to Draw a line from Y through F to Z. Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. Draw a line from Z to T. Z to 10 is 3^ seat; draw a line to L. Apply waist measure and 234 inches from K to S and T to Z take out a Yz inch V at 10. The V extends down 1/6 of seat measure.
42 43
The Forepart.
X is V is 3^
to
1^
38.
bow
leg
is
reversed.
—
Spring Bottom. Or Bell bottom. The forepart should be cut narrow at the bottom so as to facilitate shrinking in front, and should not exceed 7 inches in width; the extra width is added to the backpart, and should not extend up over 4 or 5 inches.
1
TROUSERS
12
§ 5
Peg Top Diagram 64 Outside length Inside length
42^ 32^
inches.
Thigh (actual)
inches.
34 40
inches.
Knee Bottom
Waist Seat or hip
32 The heavy solid lines
21 inches.
33 In this case
21^/^ inches.
the full Peg.
is
measures are figured for the normal
all
and the Peg added.
16 inches.
inches.
The Backpart.
To Draft.
The Forepart.
M
35 Extend lines O, B, L,
normal trouser, then add the peg. 1/3 seat on "3rds" and
and N.
1
First draft a
36
Add
14 inch to length of Backpart
2
A
to
37
O
T
3
B
to
38
Draw a straight line from T to J. From normal forepart fork to U is 1/16
B is C is 3>4
4 This
is
inches (10^4).
and includes
the proportional,
allowances.
all
39
From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 6 C to E is the inside length, and ^ inch for a seam. 5
7
D
way between E and
half
is
8 Square out from A, B, C,
H
^
9
C
to
10
H
to I is )^ seat
1
G
is
D
and E.
up from H, locating 2 on
12 Square 13
H
14
Draw
15
L
16
Go
in
H
way between C and
half
is
K
a guide line
Yi,
17 Square up and
N
P
to
Draw 20 Draw 19
is
^
down from
bottom
a straight line lines, C,
Normal waist 22 A to S is lj/2 21
G, is
P
less
^
49
I.
from and I
4 inches
inches.
;
N
to
Q
M
This
is
;
;
curve, as shown by the broken lines. 29 Shape the side seam from S the broken ;
59 The
60 line
No.
Add Add Add
to seat line
to fork to
Lower
knee the "Rise"
62
1
No. 2
and 1/2 inch and 14 inch yi and linch
Half Peg. 1 and 1 inch inch 14 and 1 and 2 inches
%
'A incli
^
inch
to
K
to
V.
S
is
1/24
seat.
A
to
mark
S exceed 1^
notches.
inches.
;
trace through the center line
first
%
to be
and
added
normal trousers.
column of
figures represents the forepart,
For example half peg. Add to seat line of the 1 inch, and to the backpart 1 inch.
Add Add
to fork to
;
%
forepart J^ inch, to backpart inch. 1 inch backpart 2 inches.
knee forepart
63 Lower the waist a
No.
X
inch below C-I.
y
64 The same way for a
the lialf Peg.
Slightly Peg.
W
forepart
lines.
Normal.
40.
shows a 61
is
the same.
the second the backpart.
high hip bone.
solid
^
to the
30 This completes the forepart, as represented by the dot and dash lines
is
marK crease in that line. 56 The dot and dash lines is the half peg. 57 The heavy, solid lines is the full peg. 58 Below is the addition for all peg sizes,
normal.
%
thin
is
thin, solid lines
seat.
26 The largest dress hollow {% inch) is opposite H. 27 The seams from I should be straight 73X inches down. 28 For "Prominent dress," allow i"ch more on fork
The
Y
;
54 In no case should
23 H to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat, by A. 24 Shape the fork to I outer corner and 25 Dress side from to J/^ inch above I inner corner.
31
to
inch
55 This completes the backpart, as represented by the
than
K K
inch for seams;
53 Shape outside and inside seams and
to R. less
3^2
52 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U.
and N.
the same.
Q, locating R.
I to
is
to \' is y2
W
U
51
is
to
50 J to the curve of back fork
from L.
L, locating O, inch
P
;
inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out
yi inch for every size more; 18
47
48
2 seams), square up to K. from to for run of dress.
G
more than % bottom. is the same draw lines Y to and Q to Draw a line from Y through F to Z. Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. Draw a line from Z to T. Z to 10 is J 8 seat; draw a line to L. Apply waist measure and 2^ inches from and T to Z take out a ^^ inch V at 10. The V extends down 1/6 of seat measure.
46
to J is 3^ inch (for
seat.
inches 2 to B, and 11 to F.
R
45
making
B.
line
1%
from N.
"6ths."
42
44 I,
X
—on
41
43
—on "halves." —on "8ths."
seat
^
1/6 seat
is
40 Measure seat and
C, and 2 inches up.
o out y2 inch from I, and in inch from y^ inch; this is for the dress side.
to
;
inch.
full
peg, etc
No. 3
No. 4
Full Peg.
Extreme Peg.
No. 5 I
ly
and 2 inches and }i inch 1>4 and 3 inches
2 and 4 inches
^4 inch
1
y
2 and 3 inches
y
and
inch
y
inch
Extra Large. 2y2 and 4 inches inch and 3 and 5 inches
%
ly
y
inches
ยง 5
TROUSERS
DIAGRAM
64
- PEG
13
TROUSERS
14
TROUSERS
§ 5
TROUSERS
15
Corpulent Trousers Diagram 65 Outside length
43 inches.
Inside length
Seat or hip
Waist Corpulency
44 23
Thigh (actual)
3 1>4 inches.
Knee
46 inches. 48 inches.
inches.
inches.
36 Shape the side seam from S. Z7 This completes the forepart. Cut out the pattern.
23>4 inches.
Bottom
The Backpart.
17 inches.
39 Extend lines U, B, L, M,
To Draft. 1
A
to
2
B
to
B C
3 This
is
4 From 5
C
to
6
D
is
7 3
H
C
to
H
to I
11
Go
the proportional, and includes
A
to
all
allowances.
the actual "Rise" as measured.
is
H
to J
L
is
15
Go
the inside length, and J4 inch for a seam. C, and 2 inches up.
is
way between E and
A
and B, or "Rise."
E
—on "halves." —on "8ths."
is
>4 seat
is
>^ seat
is
half
is
1
and
in
and
3.
;
W
Draw
50
from
}4 inch
I,
making
j^ inch (for 2 seams), square
way between C and
17
N
18
Draw
19
M
to
to
down from
up
to
40
seat,
L, locating O,
and out
N
M and
N.
Q
is )4 bottom less J4 inch; is the same. to a straight line from I to Q, locating R. is the same. is knee on "4ths" ; to
M
^
G
K
is
25 Normal waist
26
Draw
J^ inch for every inch over normal. is 4 inches less than seat.
a line from 5 to
H
for run of
^
33 Dress side from
K
to J^ inch
34 The largest dress hollow
(^
above
I
;
inner corner.
inch) should be opposite
The seams from
;
F
is
and 8 1
and
to 9,
inch from
I
should be straight 7Y2 inches down.
K
inch.
1
to S,
and
taken out.
S and T.
Yi the surplus waist to
V must be to T and Z.
A
59
required over the seat,
is
taken out, and the difference added
waistband should be cut for corpulents, and the forepart held in on top over the stomach
;
not in
front.
narrow over the hip and deep (as most corpulents are) it is best to increase the stride or fork from J to I and U by one size.
60
If the
person
is
from front
built
to back
Corpulent Trousers The process for wide hips,
is
as described
— Narrow
reversed for corpulents.
The
trousers are cut one size
L
established as usual
is
Hips
and shown on the diagram
;
more from
then go out
]/%
J to I and U. inch for every
above 40 seat. Corpulent people are built more close in the hips; because the hips are contracted from holding up the large size
stomach.
The
legs also spread out at the bottom, for the
leason, requiring a longer inseam.
H. 35
Z no
a
fly.
corpulency and >4 inch for 2 seams. 27 5 to 6 is 28 A to S is lj4 inches. This is normal. 29 S to A is J^ inch for every inch more than normal. 30 Draw a line from S to 7, and shape the top. 31 H to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat by A. i2 Shape the fork from K to I outer corner; and
to
58 If more ease or fullness
is
24 7 forward
to T.
5 to 6,
56 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 57 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches.
one and one-half times as much as J to 4; square back from 7.
to 7
— From
54 J to the curve of backfork is 1/24 seat by A. 55 U is 34 inch below line C-I.
R
20 Draw lines C, G, P and I to R. 21 J to 4 is 34 inch for every inch difference between seat and corpulency. 22 Square up from 4, locating 5. 22
Add
53
K.
I.
P
Z
a line from
51 Corpulency
T
inch for every size more, from L.
16 Square up and
W
;
52 Apply waist measure and
for the dress side.
in }i inch for every size less than ]4,
—
—
12 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B.
14
3.
42 Draw a straight line from T to J. 43 From forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat on "16ths." 44 Measure seat and l^/^ inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 45 R to X is 3^ inch for seams G to Y is the same. 46 P to V is 3^1 inch more than Yi bottom. 47 Q to is the same draw lines Y to and X to V. 48 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 49 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep.
inch; this
13
and
41
out yi inch from
^
O
N
34 inch to length of backpart from N. to T is 1/6 seat on "6ths."
1/3 seat on "3rds," and
8 Square out from A, B, C, D, 9
Add
3>4 inches (10/^).
half
10
40
is
1/3 of
is
Forepart.
is
C
E
The
Finish the top as described on corpulent.
same
—
1
:
TROUSERS
16
§
5
Riding Breeches Diagram 66 1
33
H
sides,
34
1
a string around the leg just above
35
H
In measuring for Riding Breeches iiave the customer pull
up the trousers
then pin, or
tie
in the front, not
by the
knee, so as to hold the trousers in position while
Make
a chalk
knee cap
mark
(,or
opposite the upper part of the
(_
above the anklebone, or about 4>^ inches
less
than
Now
inch, square
is y'z
M
is
up
to
— for L
stride.
H
and from
through
way between C and I. to N and down to O.
half
39 40 41
B to P is >^ seat. E to Q is the same. Draw a line from P through Q establishing R and
C L
to
T
is
1^
to
U
is
yz waist, lower 3^ inch at
43 S to 3
take the measures.
6 The outside length can be taken to opposite the lower chalk mark or the rise can be obtained by pro-
—
and the length from regular trousers.
portion,
—
1
S.
inches.
L
in front.
42 Shape the outside seam.
trouser length. 5
K
to
^
inch yi seat plus inch for dress.
is
is
37 Square up 38
large kneej.
Mark below the knee joint small knee or garter). 4 Mark the largest part of the calf, and about 1 inch 3
1
2.
36
the length measures arc taken.
2
to to J
7 Measures of the circumferences of the leg should be
taken over the underwear.
44 45
Q R
is
(14% inches) plus 1 inch. (12^ inches) plus 1 inch. (W^^ inches) plus 1 inch.
1/3 large knee
4
is
1/3 garter
to 5
is
1/3 calf
to
Draw
a line from 3 to
I and J. 47 Shape the fork and inside seams through 3-4-5 This completes the forepart.
46
to
O.
8 In measuring over the knee, hold your tape line close, then bend the knee as in a sitting position.
make
a difference of
1
9 The measure over the calf should be taken when leg is
10
1
in a bent position.
The other measures are taken The measures are as follows Outside length (42%)
in the
ordinary way.
12 Inside length (32i^) to knee (large knee)
The Backpart.
It will
inch.
48 Extend lines A, B, C, D, E, F and N to X. 49 3 to 6 is 3/< inch 4 to 7, 5 to 8 and O to 9 is the same. 50 J to V is 1/16 seat plus JX inch. 51 6 to 10 is 2/3 large knee plus yi inch. ;
52 7 to 11
is
38>^ inches.
53 8 to 12
is
14^
54 9 to 13
inches.
The
V
13 Inside length to garter (small knee) .... 17 j4 inches.
55
14 Inside length to Calf
20>4 inches.
56
N
15 Full length
24>^ inches.
57
Draw
The circumference measures
are:
16 Large knee (or bent knee)
14^4 inches.
17 Garter (or small knee)
12^/2 inches.
18 Calf
(close)
Hyi
(bent position)
Bottom (or ankle) 20 Waist 35 inches.
inches.
9>4 inches.
19
40 inches.
Seat
2 inches to
all
when
taken up
A A
B 26 C
to
C B C
to
D
is
27
D
to
E
is
28 29 30
E
to
F C
to
F B
to
G
24 25
to to
length measures which will be
is
the outside length
is
the inside length
C
to
H
is
inches—28^
5
1/6
inches.
inches.
seat.
W through
From
7 to 10 take out a fish
—under
a strapping covers
it,
is
to
W,
W.
inch in the center taper-
1
the knee.
and must be
—The forpart
X
14, 10, 11, 12 to 13.
63 Take out '/ inch of top side opposite knee
;
providing
stated.
held in J/ inch between
and 3 and 4, the amount of the fish and seams, and shrunk out to form the knee. 65 The calves are shrunk back until the seams are
inches.
from A, B, C, D, E, F and G. seat—20 on "halves."
J4
a line
Notch at 14 and hold in the back to 61 Shape seat seam from above X to V.
Q
38J/2 inches.
—more than 14^ 3 inches 19% inches. 4 inches — 23J4 inches.
31 Square out
32
— —27^
2 inches
is
1/6
64 In Making.
1/3 seat, plus 3^2 inches.
is
is
59 T to 14 is 2 inches. 60 Shape side seam from
in a sitting position.
is
is
X
ing to 7 and 10
22 Square both ways from A. 23
to
W
62
Add
the center of back part.
is in
seat, K to 4 is 1>4 inches. from X to 4. 58 Apply waist measure plus 1 inch L to U and % inch above and 1 inch above X.
To Draft. 21
is
2/3 garter (small) plus }i inch. 2/3 calf plus '^ inch. ankle plus 3 inches, take out 2 inch V.
and
S,
straight.
—
Start half way between •^eat and knee and extend about 1 inch below small knee, and about half way in on the back part, nothing on the forepart. 67 The top button is inch from knee line. 68 Finish with a Small Falls, or a fly.
66
The Reinforcement.
%
TROUSERS
DIAGRAM
66
^ RIDING BREECHES
17
TROUSERS
18
§ 5
Table No. 4 ^
5
Height
3
Rreast
33
Waist
29U
Seat Rise
34
Length
Knee Bottom
4 34 30 35
9^
6 36 32
5
35 31
36 9y2 30/2
9y4 29/2 17
30 17>^
18
14.34
15
15/
37
9% 31
18/ 15/
^
ft.-
V
31/
8 38 34 39 10 32
19
19/
20
15':;
16
16/
7 37 33 38 9j^
9'^
10 41
10>4 42
38>^
40 43
11>4
44 43 45
6
11
43
ft.
45 44j4 46
39 SSyi 40
40 37 41
42
10>4
10^ 32^ 20/ 16/
10>4 33
10^
10%
11
lUA
33^4
333^
21
21/
22
34 23
16^
17
1754
33^ 22/ 17/
11/
32/
41 >4
44
17j4
Table No. 5 TROUSERS
- STOUT ~ 1st DEGREE -5
4
5
Breast
Height
35
Waist
32 36
36 33 37
Seat Rise
9/
Length
30
Knee Bottom
15
9% 30/ 18/ 15/
18
6 37 34 38
9% 31
-5
ft.-
9 40
8 39 36
37/
9/10
10/
41
42
43 42
44
40/ 43
44
45
45 45 46
\m
10% 33/
11
11/
113%
11/
33/ 22/ 17%
2,Z}i
34
33%
23
23/ 17%
24
40
41
39 42
10
10/
\m
10/
3n
32 20 16
19
19/
15/
15^4
32/ 20/ 16/
32^
33
21
21/ 16%
16/
Table No. 6 TROUSERS - CORPULENT - 2d -5
Height
5
Breast
37 35 38
Waist Seat Rise
Length
Knee Bottom
9% 30/ 18/ 15/
6 38 36 39 10 31
19
15/
22 17
17/
46/ 47
9/
-5
11
11/
6ft.
11/
11
45
46 47 47
47
49
4«
48 50 49
11/
11%
34
33%
23/ ^ 17%
24
11% 33/ 24/ 18%
9 41
39/41
42/44
45/
40
41
42
43
44
45
46-
10/ 31/ 19/ 15%
10%
11/
10%
11
11%
32
32^.
10% 32%
33
33/
20
20/ " 16/
21/ 16%
22 17
33/ 22/ 17%
10 43
'
'
ft.-
44
8
40 38
16/
18
10/
7
21
11/ 47 48 48
DEGREE
39 37
16
43/
6 ft. 46
ft.-
42
ft.-
11
^
11% 33% 23
^
17/
48/
18
51/ 50
Table No. 7 TROUSERS - CORPULENT -5 Height Breast
Waist Seat Rise
6 39 38 40
10%
Length
31
Knee Bottom
15/
19
7
8
40 39
41
41
10% 31/ 19/ 15%
9 42
-5
9/
10/
11/
6ft.
11/
11
45 46 46
46
47 49 48
48
49 52 50
50
51
53%
55 52
11%
33%
34
21/ 16%
22 17
11% 33/ 22/ 17%
11/
33
11% 33/
23 -^
23/ 17%
44
43 43
44/
43
44
45
10/
10% 32/ 20/ 16%
10% 32%
11
21
16/
ft.-
11
10
41/
16
DEGREE
ft.-
40 42 32 20
3d
47/ 47
17/
50/ 49
11% 33% 24 18
51
12
33/ 24/ 18%
10/
12% 33% 25
18/
The International Gutting SchooFs
System By
L.
GIBSON
New York
First Edition, 1909,
Cutting
of
One Thousand Copies Third Edition, 1913,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Chicago
Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies
One Thousand Copies
GRADING (PART SIX)
Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 C. by L. Gibson, in the oCfice of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D.
ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED
(Printed in the United Stales)
GRADING
ยง 6
Complete Grading System Principle of Grading
The The
1.
principle of a system of grading
ing out of the different proportions
is
the carry-
from one
size to
another.
To
those
But
easy.
who
are
now
using this system,
system of cutting, so that
same merits If
it
be very
will
this principle will be equally applicable to
same
as the model, or the
different system
you are cutting a
faults. it
your system,
exercise, as well as testing
any
the patterns will have the
all
will
be good
draft two
to
patterns by your system, the largest and the smallest, and
grade one of them to the size of the other and see
come out even; which they
Do
not
2 patterns
make is
yourself believe that spacing between
grading; that would be only spacing; there
would be no graduation
The
fact
is
they
if
should.
in that.
that there
is
not a system of grading pub-
lished in the United States today but this one.
The
idea of parallel grading, as
given up long ago even by the
A
system,
if
correct in
it
its
that.
Try and
been
called, has it.
proportions, should
out even with the grading points for
This system does
was
man who made
come
all sizes.
see
if
yours does.
In grading the different types of form,
it
is
better to
grade each separately, such as Normals, Fat Men, Slims,
Youths and Boys.
§6
GRADING
DIAGRAM
50
5.
The Forepart Cutaway.
68
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;All points are the same,
The
line
and
is
through the notch 1/6 inch for every
52 Point 20 53
as the frock forepart.
51
-CUTAWAYS
is
is
where the two
The bottom
length
is
the
lines meet.
same continued forward.
to regulate the height
size.
See next page for
details.
:
§6
GRADING
Frock and Cutaways 1
For
the normal sizes, that
is .33
to 44,
it
is
best to
26 The
2
A
model
to be used for grading should be cut very
made for the dififerent make up such as Custom
accurately and allowances classes of
Tailoring, 3
With
a
To
3.
The Side Body.— Mark mark
establish the breast-line
Lay the model pattern in position the Back against a straight line drawn vertically. 6 The sidebody 1^ inches from the back at the waist
7
Diagram 70 29
5
;
—
M
to O top of side body. 30 Square up from 31 to U is 1/16 inch for every size. Square up. ?>2 Draw lines from D through O and T.
M
?ii
The
the breast line.
,34
Shape the large
increase over breast line
is
% inch from 36 to 44.
by the model, placing O to- top, keeping the breast line parallel and mark back-
forepart against the sidebody at breast line and
size
wards.
a 54 inch apart at the bottom. 8 Square across for the breast
around the model,
all
the breast line.
and touching the back over the rounding above
The
skirt increases
size larger.
you wish to make, proceed
class
as follows
4
by the
Bottom of
by the "Square." from the model chart shape
off the patterns
28 In taking
;
to
size.
in halves, or
27 Divide the spaces
work and the Custom Order and Wholesale.
model of the
A
length from
full
a yi inch for every
use a 36 size model.
35 Place model
line.
D
D
on
and swing up
the lines meet
till
above the blade.
Diagram 69 9 10
through A, R, X,
lines
U
36
Move forward over
—
The Back. Mark all around the model. From B, which is the grading point, draw
2.
Y
radiating
and L.
from A, R and X is 1/6 inch every size. up from breast line at L to Y. inch for every size. Square up to N. 13 L to is 14 From X advance the same amount (1 inch) and square up. This is to regulate the width of
The
increase
2)7
Place model
mark 38 Where
and shape the
side
T
^
as
O
on O, keeping breast
and
line even,
for run of scye. the
through
12 Square
M
the breast line
parallel with the model.
K
two lines intersect at T draw a line and last from a point as far back of from 2 on forepart.
first is
39 The waist line
is
straight across, connect with back
This completes the side body.
corner.
shoulder. 15
The waist
%
line increases
1
32 inch for every
Move up on
line
R
to size 44,
B on
keeping breast
line
to
A
19 Place model pattern
B-Y
line,
and
R
X.
to
B on B move forward on the new point ;
keeping the back even until the
The new
position
Now
the back touch at point
2Z
Draw
is
shown by
and breast
and mark the run over the blade. a new grading line through X.
24 Shape
The
X
to
N.
length remains the
same
at the
bottom.
around the model,
by the breast
K through
line.
19,
V, Z,
1
and
2.
44 The
is yi inch for every size. there is an increase of 2 inches
45
increase, point
From is
the broken lines.
N
K
radiating lines
2 to
all told,
22
all
V
to waist line.
21
25
Draw
— Mark
and point K.
43 The increase, 19 and
at the waist.
20 Mark the back from breast let
The Forepart Frock.
41 Square up from
42
Mark from R
4.
the breast line,
B.
even.
18
Diagram 71
or
40
16 Place the model over the breast line 17
size,
inch.
1
\
B on Back
is
1/6 inch for every
size.
as the increase over breast line on
Back
^
inch, making a J4 inch, and to the side body inch there remains for the forepart 1 inch to ;
increase.
line,
46 47 48 49
From 2 therefore is yi inch increase for every size. The front increases a J4 'ich for every size. The depth in front is 1/24 inch for every size. Shape outside
lines
by the model and space
off.
ยง6
GRADING
§6
GRADING
Diagram 72 54
6.
and through inside lower corner from the breast
Diagram 74 The Skirt.— Mark all around the model. 62 Draw a line from 23 through 24 to 25.
line.
63 The increase of the side body and forepart has been
The
Lapel.
—Draw
55 The increase at top
is
through the top corner
lines
The
increase over breast
58 Shape by the model.
8.
yg inch for every size.
56 The increase of lower length 57
61
is
is
1/24 every
4 inches therefore, 24 to 25 ;
1/16 inch for every
Draw grading
size.
64 The
through
line
lower corner; space buttonholes as shown.
7.
The
Collar.
every size
—The
in the
in the front
;
on
collar
increases
inch
on the
skirt,
which
be that much
is right.
Diagram 74 y^
inch
drawn from the 36
for
size in
back through the front corner.
60 The width increases a J4 inch from 33
^
65 For increase of length see length of the Back.
back, and ^4 inch from 33 to 44 a line
4 inches or a
lapel is not included, there will
less fullness
Diagram 73 59
is
for every size.
size.
to
44
sizes.
C>6
9.
The Cutaway
Skirt.
—
Is
graded the same way;
only 3^4 inches, as the lapel increase cluded.
is
not in-
§6
GRADING
Diagram 76
Diagram 75 67
10.
Top
Sleeve.
—
B on breast line or the point B is % inch back of
establish point
68 In
this case
69 Laying the corners
Q
11.
point as at S.
Under Sleeve. Mark all around the model. 77 Draw a line from \'' to X and square out to K.
S.
78
K
together, the upper on under
show how much the seam is shifted. around the model, and point B. draw radiating lines J, M, G and Q.
sleeve will
70 Mark 71
all
From B
72 The increase
at
G
is
1/6 inch for every
size.
AtM ys inch (J 2/3 of an inch all told). 74 The length from S-U is 1/6 inch for every size. 75 Shape outside lines by the model space elbow and Q. 73
;
—
76
If the pattern is a half-and-half
is
^
inch from
V
or half-and-half sleeve.
From K draw radiating lines R and Z. 80 The increase at R is 1/6 inch for every size. 81 The length from V-X is 1/6 inch for every 79
82 Shape
outside
lines
andQ. 83 The advantages by dividing
84 In taking largest.
oflf
by the model;
space
of taking 4 sizes between
in halves
patterns
is
size.
elbow
found
for every size.
always shape by the next
GRADING
§6
Sack Coats 108 Therefore 4 years
Diagrams 77-78 85 Sizes 4 year to 48 breast.
pattern up to a 48 breast; but
it
not advisable
is
go higher than a 42 or 44 breast, because the
to
86
It
should be understood a 36 breast corresponds to a 5 feet 6 inches in height; to be normal to this style of
87
We
grading would bring the height up to 6
6 inches.
feet
know
that people do not
rule the height
is
table of proportions to
grow
that high; as a
usually limited to 6 feet.
and how
to
forms by reducing size 33 two and S and 2 points over the blade; a j4 inch at L and a }i inch on the forepart, as shown by the shaded part on the Back. 111 The breast sizes now being 34 inch below 33. 112 The blade therefore is yi breast and 3 inches. 10
1
make one
113
Change them
the
new 33 or
114
line,
115 1
The decrease from E is a ^ The 36 is 29, and the 4 year
vertical line in
''3
Square across for the breast
Mark
line.
point K.
Diagram 77 The Back.— Mark all around the model. 95 Mark breast line and point B remove the pattern. 96 From B draw radiating lines through A, S, X, L, 94
line.
This completes the Back.
are obtained.
N and E, through Y as far back as K is from Y. 97 The increase and decrease from A, S and X is 1/6 inch for every size (X on the corner). 98 Square up from breast line L to X. P,
99
Diagram 78
US
L
to
M
102
is
is to
Draw
5^ inch increase for every
Y
103 N, P,
104
E
lines are parallel
is
for
all
sizes
down
;
of
1
inch.
Point
1
is
^
inch.
for
all
sizes
down
size.
to 33 breast.
1/2
inch added that
over the blade, bringing the
new 33
127 From 33 decrease 1/6 inch for every
was
lost
to size 35.
size
(2^
inches
At L from Z2> reduce a 3-4 inch for small The balance 14 sizes decrease 3/16 inch
blade.
for every
2 sizes (15/16 inch) over blade.
for example, 33 breast
next called 17 year and so on
is
126 Size 33 in front has a
130
is
down
^
The
front and side lines run parallel with front
and
L.
33 breast.
107 Each year of age represents a
line.
K
The
125 This
128
106 All sizes below 33 breast are called ages instead of breast size
around the model.
124 The length increases 1/6 inch for every
with L.
to
all
by the breast
front increases a J4 inch for every size. 123 Y, L and 11 increases ]/& inch for every size.
129
through outer corner.
line
From
— Mark
K
for 14' sizes) over the breast.
increases 1/6 inch for every size.
105 This
Forepart.
size.
regulate the width of shoulder.
new grading
a
The
inch for every size.
122
100 Square up to O. 101 This
14.
draw radiating lines through 20, 19, V, Z, 1, Y, IS and 11. 121 The increase and decrease from 20, 19 and V is 1/6
120
13.
;
size.
18)^ inches long.
117 Divide the spaces in halves until the required sizes
119 Square up from
front.
inch for every is
16 Shape by the model, keeping parallel with the breast
the forepart touching
and a
the back at the breast line
14 sizes,
is
to
—
back against a straight
18 years to 4 years
15/16 of an inch (3/16 inch for every 2 sizes) to be divided into 14 sizes.
yourself
88 The Stouts run from 36 to 44. 89 The corpuients from 40 to over 50 breast size. 90 For corpulent coat see under Part 1 corpulent Sack, 52 breast, 56j^2 waist, which will show the increase and decrease on point A, S, X and V. 91 For sizes below 36 proceed as explained in this Dia. 92 12. Normal Size. Lay the pattern in position, the
From
to erect
A
amounting
(See
the locality.)
fit
drafted by ZZyi inches; 5 years
etc.
109 Boys sizes are short and small in the back.
points at
height of the person will not follow.
is
by 23)4 inches,
The diagram shows a
18 year to
4
;
131
year.
inch size instead
The
line
from
K
to
1 1
is
to
govern the spring on the
smaller sizes.
the
132 Shape outside lines by the model; 133
Draw new
mark
divisions
grading line through 20 to 26.
134 In taking off a pattern always shape by the next
size.
1
ยง6
GRADING
10
GRADING
DIAGRAMS
79-80
§
6
— VESTS
t
GRADING
§ 6
11
Vestj 135 Sizes 33 to 44.
—Lay
the patterns in position.
153 Square up from
136 The back against a straight hne, the forepart touching the back at breast line and a inch from a
154
straight line in front, opposite breast line.
156
^
155 21
137 For a 4 inches difference breast and waist, keep an
opening of waist
1
inch between front and back at the
line.
141
Diagram 79 The Back.— Mark all around the model. Mark the breast line and remove the pattern. From B draw radiating lines A, S and X.
142
The
increase and decrease from A, S and
inch for every
162
E
increases a yi inch
X
is
163
1/6
inch for every size.
Draw
to
44
(parallel).
grading lines through 2 and the bottom.
148 Shape by the model. 149
Draw
Divide the spaces in halves.
check lines through
Y (^
inch)
and over
shoulder.
—
151
152
K
is
J^ inch
V
is
1/6 inch
i^ inch.
Draw line from K through first button. The lower button is 3 3^ inches up or half way The back end
Draw
and bottom
;
of the top pocket
draw grading is
line
^
be-
line.
flush with the
and 54 inch from the breast
164 The front dip 165
line
arm-
line.
is inch the length is 4 inches. from 21 through front ^nd of top pocket ;
166 The top of front, and the bottom of back end of pocket rest on the waist
167 The length
is 4^-i
line.
inches, the width
%
inch.
The front end increases % inch for every size. 169 The back advances half that much. 170 The top pocket the same; welt J4 inch wide. 168
171 Divide the spaces with this "Square" the required
The Forepart. Mark all around the model. Mark the breast line and remove the pattern. 16.
Z
front increases J4 inch for every size.
hole,
Diagram 80 150
The
Z.
line.
for front run of lower pocket.
from 36
146 Below 33 the same sizes as in the Sack Coat. 147
V
line.
and
increase and decrease from 21 and
tween waist
size.
The increase at 2 is J4 144 The same at the waist. 143
145
157
V
lines
for every size; through
161
139 15.
140
by the breast
parallel with point
is
The
K
draw radiating
158 The front length increases 1/6 inch for every size. 159 The side length is a. yi inch from 36 to 44. 160 The first button on a 36 is 1 inch above breast line.
line.
138 Square across, establishing the breast
K
From
from the front of armhole.
sizes.
172
The
vest grade can be continued up to 52 breast,
provided the necessary changes are size.
made
in waist
GRADING
12
Diagram 81 Trousers sizes 34 to 45 173 17.
The
Forepart.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Draw a
181
§6
Draw
182 2 to seat.
183 line across
from C
to G.
184
F
a line from is
I
through
1/6 inch for every
Draw lines H through Q, and C through P. C to 3 is J/^ inch for every size (1 inch). G to 7 is 3/16 inch for every size (1^ inches). P to 6 is 1 inch (ys), square up to 8.
half way between C and G. Mark through the pattern at I. 176 Mark all around the pattern and remove.
185
177 Square up from
To bottom add 1/16 inch 189 Make the length the same
174
I is
175
178
I
through Y.
H
187 Rise above
8, the
188
Y
to 5 is 1/6 inch 'for every size. 179 Square both ways from 5 locating 4 and 180 to 2 is 1/6 seat.
186
8.
2.
size.
ing lines from
amount C-P
is
in front of 8.
for every size (yi inch).
(33 inches), or draw grad-
I.
190 Shape by the model, divide the spaces in halves.
§6
GRADING
Diagram 82 191
18.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Lay forepart on back part
The Backpart.
tural position, with
through at
I,
C
establishing
192 Dra\7 a line across from 193
Mark
all
From
J
E
1
inch from
J-
it.
seat.
draw radiating
lines 13, Z, 10
in na-
E; mark
to R.
around the pattern and remove
194 Square up to 13, 1/6 195
about
and X.
13
196
The
197
Draw
increase from 13,
a line from
E
Z and
X
through Z to
is
1/6 inch.
18.
is 1/12 for every size (1/6 on division). 9 is J^ inch for every size (1 inch). 200 At bottom go out 1/16 for every size (or style). 201 Shape outside lines by the model, and divide by
198 Z to 18
199
E
to
halves.
202 In taking off a pattern shape by the next size. 203 The waist band increases J^ inch for every
size.
;
BLOCK PATTER NS AND A CORRECT WAY TO USE THEM We who
do not believe there
a cutter today but
is
will admit, that the use of a
"Block Pattern"
an advantage and a savinsj of time. questions to enter his mind a pattern, and, second,
we
is
how
:
First,
tn use
is
The onl}^ two how to _y;et such The
it.
first (|ucs-
answer by saying- that we have the only system in the world frtmi which patterns can be cut according- to the system and which will correspond to the grading points. No other system -will do so! The second question is how to use them correctly. Xo books published today gives a practical way of using patterns. For the lack of knowing how the tion
will
cutter does not feel inclined to invest in F)lock Patterns.
"Flock
.\
Pattern"
scientific principles.
is
a
There
nurn-ial is
cut
])attern,
nn
We
such a Pattern.
we have such have so far printed two editions of 1,000 copies each of our system and they are all gone hut eight copies. AN'e ha\'e cutters using our system in every large city with exception of a few cities. And not one dis satisfied customer To mention system til a cutter is like waxing :i red bandana to a bull; will
prove to any interested party that
We
a pattern.
.
l)ut
when
it
comes
to patterns
we
are
down amongst
them, and results speak.
Our Patterns
mark
are cut as close as a pencil
Outside 45, inside 34 inches, waist 33, thigh 22, seat 40, knee 243/, bottoms IG. Height 6 feet, weight 135 puunds, shoulders regular, neck medium long, chest regular, hollow waist, hips
ting
back.
ll
and the outlines
will
remain as
accti-
rately as the block pattern. The balance of the time a cutter can certainly put in to better advantages than
drawing perpendicular and horizontal lines and curves on the paper. Yet you retain the model patto be
explanation on
how
to use
them follows:
use Block Patterns on drafting paper is not and only a few general rules are necessary.
them it
direct on the cloth requires
To
difficult
To
use
is
a
Take
an ordinary Block Pattern of the size and before drafting make these memorandums. T'le height being G feet indicate too tall for the size of pattern. Lengthen front and back shoulder of the coat }i-uich. Widen the shoulders of front and back '4-i"ch. Add to spring over the hip ^-inch re<|uir(.'d.
then either enlarge the sleeve head ^-inch or use a 39 full peg; I'or trousers, he has indicated a
sleeve.
wciuld therefore use a 40 No.
short
measures
if
inches
you have them).
4,
ure shows a rise of 11 inches.
40 seat
is
10J4 inches, but as
The measThe normal rise of a this man wants a full a full peg.
peg or Xo. 4; the size 40, of which has a rise of dyi inches, will therefore change this measure to 9j4 inches on account of his height; the other measures remain as taken.
.\fter receiving the goods, it
cut. side,
Lav The
shake
smooth it or length, see that the tag end
that
it
then the nap,
if
thoroughly so
out.
will lay naturally;
If
it
is
a
your right any, will run towards the left.
the patterns in position, as
is
shown
at
in the
diagram.
be reversed if necessary. The rule of laying patterns is to place the larger pieces first and to
sleeves
commence use
:
may
at the left end.
Commence with
mark from halfway up
the
the forepart of trousers,
fly to
top of waist band,
along the top of forepart and the side at waist, lower the pattern
j^i
inch (in this case),
now
making the
ij-inch on the outside
:
3.5
addition to the measures.
in
whole form before yo"*" mind's eye
The
measure taken from a live customer Length of coat 3-5 inches, sleeves
35 inches, breast 38, waist
be amiss,
(here use the
practice, but
can be done equally as well. We will give an illushow they are used in the second instance. Flere
fit-
in the
Then mark from inside knee up to fork and through curve of fork, mark past the seat notch and notch it, now mark the knee notches at the 32 inches long knee mark. The measure calls for a 245^-inch 25i/, inches; reduce '/i knee, and the pattern being inch on fore part and K' '"ch on back part swing the pattern out of the way and mark the reduction of
some
tration of
reading as follows
measure was taken
this
wlu-ii drafting.
To
tern for use again.
An
will not
will liring the
;
the fitting points
Suppose
store, a description of the attitude, etc., of the cus-
tomer
sleeves and collar,
using such a pattern a cutter can cut a suit that is, draft the paper pattern in from 10 to 15 minutes; apply all short measures and make all changes, still
broad, collar size
.Measures taken over heavy underwear, form
allow and each with the utmost care, so that In etc., fit together accurately.
will
medium
1.-^.
trousers:
rise 9J4.
;
seam
at knee, bring the pattern
back
Now
in position.
moving
get the length 34 inthes by
down
the pattern
3 inches, noting the notches
at the knee, thereby avoiding the use of the tape line.
The bottom wanted IG inches.
16 inches, the pattern also being shape by the pattern from bottom to
Now
knee on the inside, then from bottom to new knee mark, from knee to hip notch. The waist wanted 33 inches, the pattern being 34 inches; reduce J4-inch for every inch on the side seam of the waist, using the pattern to shape by, also shape part way of the dress, then add the turn-up, whether cuffs or otherwise. This completes the forepart of the trousers.
The back part Place in position mark the amount of turn-up, the width of bottom and a few inches up, move up the pattern at the knee the length required, 34 inches, mark the notches at the 33 length notch, so as to have them in the same place as the forepart. Mark seat, and inside seam to knee; mark
by the model always. Bring the pattern bac': in original position and mark the pockets and under-arm cut. Now mark to top of the shoulder J4"inch higher and also ^-inch wider, move the pattern up and shape the shoulder, armhole and the gorge as far as the collar notch remove the block and finish the lapel and front by the style shaper, or if the block is style, finish with it, marking the buttonholes, also lower the lower pocket and lower buttonhole to correspond to the ;
The pocket being 3-3 the inside sleeve length down from armseye. This completes the forepart. height.
the coat back in position,
cloth for the vent
a center vent
if
wanted, allow
is
also see that the stripes will
;
;
and past it. Now raise the rise 54-i"ch and mark along the top; reduce J^-inch on
the
hip
notch,
seam at waist to 33 from 34 waist. Shape outside seam by the pattern, reducing 5^-inch at the knee. Bring the pattern back in original position, shape from the bottom up to the knee on both sides. This comside
pletes the trousers with the exception of shaping the
outlet on the inside seam, also
mark
seam by the hand.
seat
on back part
The
seat
is
;
Place the forepart in position, mark
now move
rise the amount of turn-up 1^4 the pattern up until the desired length
obtained (in this case
3.5
inches)
;
the pattern being-
Mark along the front from the waist down, (The pattern being a straight front sack.) Now mark the armhole, the notches and top of side seam, add the ^-inch over the hip move the whole pattern out horizontally, the J4"inch and shape from hip down, then connect top of side seam with the line at the hip, using the pattern to shape by. Shape the outlet on side seam Si inches.
in
when
center seam
finished
along the bottom and allow for turn-up
move up
;
come mark
l%-ind:i,
the pattern until the desired length
gained,
is
be lengthened at the top of back for mark inside seam from top of shoulder
less the J^-inch to
height.
Now
down, taking
off
^-inch
striped to balance the this case raise the
cated on the
at the waist
if
the goods are
In
in in the center of back.
fill
shoulder and back 54"inch, as indi-
memorandum
slip,
and
finish,
allowing
outlet at the top of the back.
Place the two sleeves in position;
seam
along the bottom and inch
out even spaced
the outlet over
Never change the nor the front line on forepart.
coat:
Lay
Place the facing as indicated by the diagram.
;
:
reverse the lay of both
if
there
is
no nap
necessary,
if
;
see that the
upper and lower points of the inseam of the top sleeve run even with a
stripe.
then mark from elbow
Allow 2y2 inches
for a turn-up,
down on both seams move ;
pattern up until the right length
is
the
obtained, keeping
even with the stripes, then mark the upper half of the sleeve a
;
connect the upper and lower marks, following
straight
line
so that
the original
hollowness on
;
is
elbow.
The
maintained
;
also
the
same width over the
outlet for the turn-up
by the pattern.
and vent
is
shaped
This completes the top sleeve.
when
This Coupon
any
inseam
size, either Coat,
Stgle
properlg filled out and accompanied bg 25 cents, will be good for one Pattern of Vest or Trousers, described in this circular .
Size
Customer's Height
Breast.
.Seat.
Other Measures. Firm
Name
..
Address
I
Place undersleeve
in position;
it
for the stripes to run exactly true;
is
not necessary
mark
the upper get the length and finish bottom in the same manner as the top sleeve, allowing an outlet on inside half,
seam. Place the top collar,
nap
will run
The
downward
nap on the goods, so the
if
in the center of back.
breast pocket welt nearly always
The lower
of the armseye.
flaps
is
taken out
can be taken either
above or below the sleeve, other fittings have theii places. In all cases shape outlets by the model, except the top of shoulder. This lay can be closed up or extended to suit any sizes, except very large ones, and for a lay with fittings cannot be surpassed scores of cutters have adopted it since we first introduced i^. ;
We
claim originality of
Whether
it.
described or a pattern
is
marking
To
is
a pattern
first,
To prove
we will make To anyone sending or bringcoupon attached hereto and 25 cents, we the merits of the patterns,
circular, be
In
from
1
:
one pattern, choice of any one printed
will cut
and
start,
as here described.
this extraordinary offer
ing us the
the cloth as
cut, the process of laying
would advise drafting making the necessary changes by the
the same.
same process
made on
the changes are
it
in this
coat, vest or trousers.
ordering trousers, state wliat number desired, to 6 or corpulent.
In
all
cases give height of
customer. surprising so many merchants and cutters A merchant about investing in patterns. thinking nothing of expending $50 on a store fixture, which really brings him no returns. Whereas, it is It
is
hesitate
the good fitting garment that brings the trade
and nothing
;
that,
hence a cutter is paid high salary to bring customers, through his cutting.
One
else
;
satisfied
customer pays
for a set of patterns.
Why
not invest $50 in a selection of patterns. patterns are used all through the country, from
York
San Francisco, and
to
Our
New
in all class of trade, in
take
stand the
specified.
test.
When
IG bottom, 34 waist.
wholesale, mail order and merchant tailoring; something very few pattern makers can say. But ours can
it
for granted
it
is
For example,
over 45 seat
is
ordered,
we
a corpulent, unless otherwise a 53 seat will call for a 56^^
waist.
In ordering a set state
be used
for, as
what
class of trade
it
is
to
they are cut differently.
To anyone
ordering $50 worth of patterns we will FREE how to use them,
give personal instruction
Trousers run in 6 different styles, from Nos. 1 No. 1 is normal. No. 2 is slightly peg. No. 3 is half peg, No. 4 is full peg. No. 5 is extreme peg and No. 6 is extra large peg. For example, a 40 seat. No. 6, is 293% inches knee and actual 51 inches over the seat. to
either
on paper or direct to
cloth.
6.
In trying one of these patterns (they can be safely try-on) there will perhaps be less
made up without changes than
if
the
garment was
tried on.
THE
I.
C. S.
PATTERNS
will call your attention to the superiority over other Patterns, and a few reasons therefor. Ours are cut from a system based on scientific principles, and the ONLY SYSTEM IN THE from which patterns can be cut directly and will correspond to grading points. Their balance is correct. and contain features not found (2) They are models of the highest attainment in the art of cutting,
We
WORLD
(1)
any
in
other patterns. (3)
Their
fitting points are perfect
The
and need never be changed.
sleeves have 2 notches which always
They are marked to breast and heights, no others have these very important ft. 4 inches. is marked to heights from G ft. 2, to (5) The breast and waist lines arc marked, as also are the short measures. weight (sample (6) They are made of "flexible fibre paper" unbreakable 300 lb. (4)
br.
fit.
For example: 44
features.
."3
(7)
A
whole
set of coats, vests
and trousers, can be rolled and carried
free).
in a suit box, or suit case
without injury.
By the use of "style shapers" also furnish with each full set of patterns, "style shapers" free of charge. a block pattern never gets out of style; therefore, the investment is only once. One peg will hold a full set. (9) They can be hung up or rolled up and occupy but little space. (8)
We
The waist measure on coats are cut 4 incnes less than breast, except the corpulents. Seat measure to each Waist measure is 6 inches less than seat measure on trousers; all breast measure is 1 inch more than breast. trouser patterns are marked to the seat size. Lengths of all garments are usually cut to proportional heights, except the trousers which are all cut 82 inches Each Vest pattern is cut without a collar, but a collar is included giving the collar shape an opening. long. All short measures can be accurately applied because ours
is
an absolutely non-swinging system. No tissue paper patterns sold.
Special patterns are cut from light-weight manilla or pattern paper. Measures for all coats, vests and overcoats are taken over the vest.
IMPOHTANT—
Crt-pe
breast, ivaist arid seat measures, etc., height of castomer
and attitude— IMPOUTAIST.
PRICES OF SINGLE PATTERNS SPECIAL OR BLOCK Inverness and Cape
(Any
Size)
$2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
:
Newmarket
,
Overcoat (Frock or Ulster) Raglan Overcoat (Box or Chesterfield) Undercoat (Frock or Cutaway) Undercoat (Sack) Coat, Vest and Trousers
1.25 1 50 1.00 1.50
Vest Trousers Riding Breeches Cycle or Golf
$ .50 .75
_
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 75
:
....:
Shoulder Cape Spanish or Military Cape
Hood Livery, Uniform, Clerical and Unusual Patterns at special rates.
PRICES OF BLOCKS IN SETS (Sizes 33 to 43 inches inclusive.
11 Patterns.
Inverness and Capes
515.00 15.00 15.00 15.00
Newmarkets Overcoats (Frocks or Ulsters) _ Raglans Overcoats (Box or Chesterfields) Undercoats (Frocks, Dress or Cutaways) Undercoats (other styles)
.'.
Stouts (;!() to 43 breast) Corpulents (45 to 52 breast)
THE
1.
C. S.
,.
10.00 10.00 g.oo 9.00 9.00
D. B. Sack Shapers D. B. Overcoat Shapers Vests (Normal or Corpulent) Trousers (34 to 44 seat. No. 1 and
.•
2)
Trousers, Peg (34 to 44 seat. No. 3 half, No. 4 Full Peg) Trousers, Extreme Peg (34 to 44 seat, No.|.5 & 6 Trousers, Corpulent (45 to 53 seat)
A orders,
discount of 25 per cent,
is
allowed on
on amounts exceeding $50.
all
^^
.
$3.00 3.50 5.00 7.50 7.50 7.50 7.50
pattern
net.
PATTERNS CAN BE OBTAINED ONLY FROM THIS OFFICE DIRECT Remittances must accompany
all
orders for Patterns.
.'\ddress all orders to
51
W. 28th
Street
New York
International Cutting Schools
54 W, Lake Street Chicago
IIGHTED. 1909.
L.
Glaso^
INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS DIAGRAM
1
.
.
.
COPYRIGHTED. 1909. BY
L.
GIBSON.
PATENT APPLIED FOR.
1913.
INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS
SACK
DIAGRAM. The measures
50
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
inches
Breast
inches
inches
Depth of scye
inches
Waist
51
52 53
inches
Natural waist
inches
Strap
inches
Fashion waist
inches
Over shoulder
inches
Full length
inches
54
inches
Height
inches
55
breasts
56
Hip or
seat
ft.
to
sizes
and Attitude.
F"orni
To
Draft.
57
6
Square both ways from A. mches. to B is 1/3 breast on "thirds" and Syi inches. is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 ]3 to and A is half-way between This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 inch for curve
7
C
8 9
A
1
2 3
4 5
—
—
—
—
1
of Back. Seat. is 1/3 breast, on "thirds" (also Vest). to Added to the natural waist gives correct length. to E is the Full Length of Back. F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.
12
C
13
From
14
B
15
H
If)
B
10
17 18 19
20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27
28 29 30
D
E
G
D. and down to >4 inch, draw line F to the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. is half the full breast measure. to inches ( Vest 2 inches) center of breast. to I is
to
G is
H
2%
K
,
blade (with 154 inches for seams). front of armhole. Square up from half exaggeration. to 31 is 1 inch E.xagg.) and 31 square 3 is half-way between (Exagg.) to
is
—K —
(
K—
—
K
;
up from 3. is half-way between B and K. is 134 inches (Vest yi inch)— width of Back. to Square up to O, and and down to N. P is J4 inch from Line O-M draw line to N. A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "twelfths," and Q to R is 1J4 inches; square up to S, ys inch.
L L
M
;
U
is 1/12. V/2 inches (Vest 1 inch) T to to V, locating the shoulder point. Square up from line through V is located on lines from and
K
T
to
is
;
U
Draw
lines
from S
U. and
—
—
K
to
F
to
3^)
The
34
X
to
37
38 39 40 41
42
—
normal attitude
—
is
meet
will
line
A.
for fullness held in over the blade. square on 5. and F, and square
(Stoop) Lay O line O, 5, F. Obtain point S from 5 and shape
S
to
X.
;
— —
V
—
^
B
to 2
is
34 breast on "h.^lves"
;
to 5
is
34 waist
through 4 to
17.
—on "halves"—center of
waist.
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. (Corp. 2 in.) These 234 inches are for seams and make-up. In corpulency, measure the waist first and obtain the hip spring from it. This rule applies where the waist is even, or more, than the breast. Measure waist and I34 inches P to G and (Corp.) :
—
16.
58 59
Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is Ifi inches. Apply hip measure and 34 inch for 3 seams; width of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. (Exag. 34 in.).
60
11 to 12 is 1)4 inches; square up, locating 13. (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 154 inches.)
61
62 63 64 65
Draw
66 67 68 69 70
Draw
71
72 73
74 75
76 77 78 79 80 81
82 83 84 85 86 87 88
89 90 91
92 93 94 95
96
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (\'^est y inch) B to \V and K to Z when normal, meet line F-V. Z is 134 inches from line K. Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. V to point 1 is inch less than S to X. (Vest }i in.) Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. Shape arms-eye and shoulder rounding 34 in. over Z. ;
44 45 46 47 48 49
K
K
a line from 13 through 11 to 14. Measure waist and I34 inches P to G and 8 to 16. Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 54 inch over 11 to 14— or style. line 15 and take out a 34 inch or more. to 16 when no underarm cut.) (Reduce 34 in. from Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge.
Y
Draw
line 14 to 7 shape bottom lower ^4 at 17. Measure hip and .^4 inch for 3 seams; (Corp.) width of Back from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. Draw line 15 and take out the shaded part. (Corp.) Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 on 34 by cutting to the pocket and to the front of ;
— —
;
pocket. 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to 1 and 5. to 3. (Corp.)- Advance at 1 the amount from 19 to 20 is 234 inches; notch 34 inch from 19. is 1 inch square down. inches 5 to 6 I to J is I34 Go in 34 inch at 7 draw line from 6 and shape front. to 21 is 134 inches; draw line to end of roil. (One Bottom) Go in 1 inch between waist and
V to
—
K
;
;
;
V
—
is 2/3 sleeve length and 34 inch from K. (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) I to J is 3^ inch 5 to 6 is I.34 6 to 25 is I34 inches. 2 to 44 is 1 inch square down to 3 3^ inch. G to P 34 waist and K inch; 4 to 16 is I34 inches. Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. For correct spring over hip draw line from K through 16. Draw line from G to D. From P add 34 inch for
The pocket
;
;
;
;
spring. 5,
Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to Y in normal attitude will meet line F-V. (\'est y in.) Stooping) Advance \' from line K-V as much as below line 4. (Erect) Go back from K-V line as much as above line
43
in
,
—
J4 inch
normal blade and independent of the actual in normal sizes. and comes even with
(Vest 3 inches.) Square down from
4
1
seat line.
35
32 33
is
8 to
V.
This gives the proportional height of shoulders. Rise at yi inch, and lower at point 1 the same. X is y> inch on the S-U line or Style. Y is 34 inch from the C)-N line, and 1/12 up from M. Draw guide line from Y to P. From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch
31
This
blade,
Blade (with I34 inches for inches seams added)
PART
2 to
K
is
334 inches.
Apply length and I34 inches, A to R and V to 7. Apply Opening and -jj inch, A to R and \' to J. Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17.
when no
\' to 21 in
1
Draw
from 21
line
— —
inch
;
>
collar '4 inch.
to first button
and
finish as rep.
(Corp.) Open pocket 1/16 for every inch more than normal. (Dress) J to I and 6 to 5 is 34 inch; draw line I
to 7.
B
Opening 34 inch above waist line. 134 inches; 7 to 9 is the same. 99 5 to 1 1 is 234 inches 5 to 12 is the same. 100 9 to 10 is .'4 inch; 12 to 13 is the same. 101 (Clerical) For vest to button in front, leave a stand
'>7
J to
*^>8
7 to 8
is
3 inches.
is
;
-^4
— —Reduce
inch.
102 (Cleri.) a seam shape the bottom.
at
19 dotted
line;
and
1
SACK AND SLEEVES
.E,
.
.
.
COPYRIGHTEO. 1009. BY
L.
GIBSON
PATENT APPLICO FOR
INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS
FROCK
DIAGRAM. The measures
inches inches inches inches inches inches
Breast
Waist
Hip or
Blade (with 1^ inches for seams added) inches
47 48 49
Z is 1>4 Draw a
Depth of scye
50
Draw
are taken over the Vest always.
Inside sleeve
seat
Strap
Over shoulder
Full length
Height
Form and
inches inches inches inches inches breasts
Natural waist Fashion waist ft.
Attitude.
PART 2
inches from line K.
V
52 53
from through Z to point 1. 1 is Y^ inch less than S to X. a guide line from point I to T. Shape arms-eye and shoulder rounding ]/> in. over Z. B to 2 is J/j breast on "halves" 2 to is 3jX inches. This is normal blade and independent of the actual
54
blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. Square down from K through 4 to 17 center of
51
V
line
to point
—
body.
To
Draft.
55
Square both ways from A. is 1/3 breast on "thirds" and Zyi inches. is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. A is half-way between and This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. A to C is one-fourth height, and inch for curve of Back.
56
— to B B to — ^
—
^
—
^
A
D
to
1^ 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
D A
A
is
A
K
L L
K—
half-way between
is
to
M
1^
is
Square up
P
inches
(Corp.)
to to
Q
R
B and K.
—width of
Back.
O, and down to P. from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 1/12 breast on "twelfths," and inch. \y2 inches. Square up to S, Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size
is is
—
—
above 4 inches front run, take
%
than breast; to straighten the
less
out in the underarm cut as
it
shown
K
to
T
1^
is
inches;
T
to
—
U
is
1/12 breast.
Square up from U to V locating the shoulder point. is located on lines from K and through line Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. This gives the proportional height of shoulders. Rise at X 3X inch, and lower at point 1 the same. X is 1/2 inch on the S-U Line or Style.
31
Draw guide line from X to Y. From B up apply depth of scye measure and
is
^
—
inch from the
The
y2 inch
34 35 36
C
to
G
is
E
to
N
is
44 45
Line.
will
meet
line
^
N
G
49 in on S-U and A-K lines. Blade fullness is inch over the rounding. (Stooping) Lay square on 5, O and F, and square lines O, 5, F. Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. Shape the Back as shown draw line from B to W. Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V in normal attitude will meet line F-V. (Stooping) Advance V from line K-V as much as below line 4. (Erect) Go back from K-V line as much as above
—
%
;
—
—
—
Apply over shoulder measure and K to Z when normal, meet line ;
1
inch
F-\".
B
to
;
1/6 breast. These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up. G to 22 is I1/4 inches, or I3.4 inches in all sizes to allow for blade fullness and inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. Square up, and down to 23 23 is J/^ inch below the fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. Shape side body reducing J4 inch near Y, ^^ inch at breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 18 to 19 is j4 breast draw line from 19 to I and 5. (Corp.) Advance at I the amount from to 3. Add inch rounding over the breast. (Cutaway) 19 to 20 is 2],^ inches; notch inch ;
;
—
K
%
69
— from (Cutaway) — square down. Rever— 19 20
70
through 5-9 10 to 24 is 214
^
19.
68
71
74
to J
I
ly^ inches; 5 to 6
is
is
1
inch;
is IJ/2 inches, or draw a straight line straighten inch at 20. ins. 10 to 25 the same; sweep by 20. Draw a line from 13 to 24 Shape from 13 to 25. (Cutaway, Dress) Draw a line from 13 to 10. (Dress) 24 t o 35 is 1^ ins. 35 to 25 is the same. (Dress) Shape the gorge and front through 6-24
to
^
;
;
—
—
— —
;
to 35.
75
76 77 78 79
80 81
A.
for fullness held in over the blade. 1/16 breast and 1^ inches. the same width as 50 to G, and inch.
G
—
Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 20 to 26 is 2y2 inches I to J is 3J4 inches. Shape lapel through 26 J to 25. (Corp.) 10 to 35 is J4 in. draw line from 13 to 35. (Corp.) Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a V ;
— — — at (Corp.) — Advance 23 the
;
36.
JX inch
a line from to and from 49 to for width of Back over brea.st-line.
V
64 65 66 67
is
Draw
line
46
O-M
normal attitude
in
,
33
42 43
—
—
to
41
—
V
Y
63
72,
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
38 39 40
62
72
by shaded part.
2,7
61
to
54 inch
is
22
32
60
H
H
—
4 to 5 is i<3 waist on "halves" center of waist. Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 5 to 8 is 254 inches (8 to 6, V/i dress) 9 to 10 is
^
the fashion waist; one-fourth height a.id
is
I54 inches, line from through 50 to E. to E is the Full Length of Back. F is half between and B, for front shoulder height. Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. is half the full breast measure. B to to I is 2]/^ inches, center of Breast. B to is blade (with l}^ inches for seams). front of armhole. Square up from
21
22>
58 59
inches.
to 50
A Q
20
57
K
;
W and
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91
92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99
amount of V and seams. [Square both ways (Cutaways and Dress) from 23. Draw a line from 22 to 24; square down to 12. inch and square down by 32. Flare At 23 go up 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 5^ inch.
—
Skirt
—
%
12 to 11 is V/z inhes; 11 to 27 is -^4 inch. a line from 23 through 1 1 and 14. 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 22. inch more than to E. 23 to bottom is Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. Square down the front edge to 7. by the waist line. Take out a fish ]4, inch, 1/6 up from 15. and line parallel to 50-E. Go out 54 from Reduce y% inch at B from to C. (Dress)—24 to 36 is 54 the width from 24 to 22. (Dress) 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. (Dress) Shape front run of skirt (cutaway).
Draw
D
y
D
A
— —
INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS
.TROUSERS
DIAGRAM-
PART 5
K to
outer corner
and
Outside length
inches
Seat or hip
inches
32
Shape the fork from
Inside length
inches
Thigh
inches
33
Dress side from
Waist
inches
Knee
inches
34
Bottom
inches
The largest dress hollow (^ inch) is opposite H. The seams from I should be straight 7y2 inches down. "Prominent dress," allow 34 inch more on fork curve, as shown by the broken lines.
inches
Corpulency
To
The
Draft.
36
I'orepart.
37
No.
A
to
2
B
to
B C
is
1/3 seat on thirds and
is
3 1/2 inches.
3
This
From B
5
C
to
6
D
is
7
3
3S
the proportional, and includes
4
is
E
A
to
is
is
E
and 34 i"ch for a seam. and C, and 2 inches up.
11
(io out y2 inch
12
Square up from H, locating 2 on
;'4
13
H
14
Draw
15
L
16
Go
inch
to J is
^
;
from
3.
m
}i inch from for the dress side.
and
I,
this is
from K to half-way between C and
is
H
I,
mak-
line B.
up
the broken line
;
show
;
M
18 19
Draw
^
;
21
from I to Q, locating R. M to G is J4 knee on "fourths ;" M to R is the same. Draw lines, C, G, P and I to R.
22
J
23
K
every inch difference between seat and corp; square up from 4, locating 5. is
"4
'"t"!!
is
same
the
26
Draw
a line
27 28
5 to 6
is
A
to
S
is
29
S
to
A
is
30
Draw
31
H
from
5 to
H
<2 corpulency,
lyi inches. J/^
a line
for run of
This
to 7,
No.
T
6
Draw From
7
Measure
8
R
to
f^'
P
to
to seat line
Lower
is
1
3^
and and
1
seat.
inches 2 to B, and 11 to F.
34 inch for seams
;
G
to
Y
is
the same,
Corpulency
16
34 inch
is
W
W
;
—
From 5 to 6 and 8 to 9, and 1 Apply waist measure and 234 inches from and T to Z take out a 34 inch V at 10.
X
to V.
inch.
K
to
V
down
17
The
18
Add 34 the surplus to S and T; no (Corp.) taken out.
19
J to the curve of Backford is 34 inch below line C-I.
20 21
22 23 24 26
extend
1/6 of seat measure.
—
is
J' is
1,24 seat by A.
U
Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. In no case should A to S exceed Ifj^ inches. Bow Leg N to 45 is 2 inches the amount of bow. Draw a line from 45 to L. The center line. Draw straight line from I to Q this locates R. Measure 3-2 width of knee from R to G. Notch Knee and Bottom on straight lines across.
—
—
;
No. 4
No. 5 Extra Large.
and
1
inch
1
and 2 inches
y> inch
S
;
Extreme Peg.
inch
34 inch
1;'4
to J.
1/16
No. 3
1
the "rise'
is
and
T
is
Full Peg.
34 and 34 inch
and
X V
seat
U
No. 2
inch
34>
from
forepart fork to
Half Peg.
'4
knee
a straight line
15
28
1
34 inch
—on "sixths."
1/6 seat
is
3.
14
13
27
top.
12 seat.
Slightly Peg.
to fork to
more than normal.
to
lines
more than 34 bottom. Q to is the same draw lines Y to and Draw a line from Y through F to Z. Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. Draw a line from Z to T. Z to 10 is }i seat; draw a line to L.
25
and shape the
No.
Normal.
fly.
normal.
is
inch for every inch
from S
7.
and yi inch for 2 seams.
to the curve of front fork
Add Add Add
O
5
f"'"
as J to 4, square back from 7 forward is yi inch for every inch over normal. Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. to 7
and
4
a straight line
to 4
N
34 '"ch to length of Backpart from N.
12
I.
O, B, L, M,
Extend
10
inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out inch for every size more from L.
line represents the forepart.
Add
11
in y%
The white
3
K.
to
and N. Square up and down from L, locating O, N to P is '/4 bottom less inch N to Q is the same.
2?i
;
inner corner.
2
for run of dress.
inch (for 2 seams), square
a guide line
'/i
24
;
The Backpart. 1
—
ing
20
I
Cut out the pattern.
This completes the Forepart.
allowances.
A
1/3 of
is
all
the inside length,
half-way between
10
17
seam from S
side
above
the actual "rise" as measured.
and B, or "rise." Square out from A, B, C, D. E and C. to H is Yi seat— on "halves." H to I is J/^ seat on "eighths."
9
Shape the
I
to J^ inch
high hip-bone.
1
8
35
K
134 and 2 inches '4
and 34 inch
134 and 3 inches ;'4
inch
2 and 3 inches
4
and 34 inch
2 and 4 inches 1
inch
234 and 4 inches
and
•34
;4 inch
3 and 5 inches 1
'
4
inches
T.<S.
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*
4*
TROUSERS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; DIAGRAMS
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