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iS-MAKINC AND TAILORING

MADE

EASY.

Entered according to Act of Congress, A. E.

BEARRIE,

in

the year 1890, by

|

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

A^^PI\|TrO ^^^^"'^ * ^

\iii A.

—we want mTCr\ Cl^s

WWA^Ill

I

All mail should be addressed to A. E.

both Ladies and Gentlemen

in

all

parts

of the United States to represent our business.

BEARRIE,

1220 Olive

St., St.

Louis,

Mo.

m'

^Wl"?]

MANAGER.

i me

m

^9f

;^,.0T DRESS

.„

m

2—

OLIVK STREET,

1220

«5

f-

3=»

ST.

LOUIS,

JVIO.

i 31 <i <: <^

<1

COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS 1

IN

THE ART OF I

CUTTING ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS.

:§i «:

m Ji

V*

"'l^^^,~~g7~"^7i~^^ ~"i^iJ~lliMl¥iIMiiTiiiiiij^^ ®ltlil¥!®ri~.F9"*7%ri^ -— — -w v'^v y 'wv 'VVV9 v'w w -w WW WW 'WW ^»"WT»W WW ^r w w »» T Nixos-JoNEs Printing Co., 212 Pine i^treet, St. Louts, Mo.

w w^

Xo THK

Public.

--joe^-

Wl'.UK are thousands and tlioiisands of (lollais nniiiially spcnl, in tliis country'

for

llio

ments,

and

(iilling

llipreliy

niakiiiij;

but

exist,

tlic

expense, lime required

and the intricacies of

learn,

systems of cutting heretofore have placed of families

it

so far beyond

use,

in

tiie

the

reacii

kno\vle<lge, to be efficient in the

tiial tiie

art of cutting, lias been almost out of the question.

As

it

costs

many

dollars to learn anything of

and months of time and

all

it

at

studj'.

Then it could not easily lie done; new calculations must be made for every different garment, and it ke|)t the parly who learned it in a constant study in order any aceuracj' whatever.

The art through these disadvantages has only been learned by those who wished to make the art of garment cutting a profession. Ver}' few ladies outside of those making it a profession thoroughly understand garment cutting. In fact 1)ut very few know anytiiing to cut witii

of

it

it

We

gar-

of

makinp; a great expense

u|)on every household that shouUl not

to

used

that has not praised liolh

|)erfeetness

f)f

its

We

the country.

have never sold one

that has not given jierfect satisfaclion.

There are many systems of cutting in use, l)ul ail more or less imperfect in their work, and these cutting but very few g.arments, most of them, but one bascjue, and that in many cases only to the waist line.

Our system covers tiie entire field of cutting. We cut not only one garment l)ut every garment worn by ladies, gentlemen and children.

No matter what it is our system outs it.

It is

based upon the

whicii ai'e used in

(inest scientific principles

known,

mechanical work, and therefore

all

liasing our work upon llie only correct methods of measurements and calculatiojis which are used by all classes of irechanics we have been able to produce a

correct scientific work.

And

moments

requires but a few

it

what we We do not

that

for us to prove

saj' is true.

insist

by any means that

learn our work, but there are a great

at all.

simplicity .nnd the

work.

arc in receipt daily of testiuionial letters fioin

parts of

all

its

ever}'

many

one shall

ladies idling

While the ladies are not to Itlame on account of the disadvantages they must go through in order to be enal)led to do cutting.

Yet this should not be so. Evei'y lad}', young or old, should understand as well how to cut and make garments as she should all other domestic duties.

She should understand as well how to cut herself a dress as she should know how to prepare a meal of victuals or any other duty allotted to woman, and yet we find but verj' few informed upon this most neces-

away hour after hour of time whocoidd, if they knew how to cut and fit the garments for the family, save a great expense upon the household and turn their idle

sarj' part of

Even if she should not wish her duties. make the garments herself, she should at least know how they were cut and how tliey were made.

If every lad}- understood the cutting and making of garments she could save more in her home every year

gentlemen

to

others and they will always be found willing to explain

than ui)on most any other duty of

teachers, as

tlie

household.

Seeing this great necessity for some simple metiiod of garment cutting for to be used in the family, the inventor, after years of practical experience and study, finally

produced

"The

I'erfect

he feels assured will meet

tliis

Dress Fitter," wiiich

great public necessity.

His aim has been to make

it so simple and yet so any lady could with Itut very little instruction be enabled to cut any article of wearing apparel worn by themselves or members of their

perfect, that

And judging from received wherever

it

the

way

the " Fitter" has been

it

profit,

should not be done when

and there is no reason it can be accomi)liÂŤlied

so easily.

We

would

every lady or gentleman who has

like for

an o(iportunity of seeing our work to have plained to them and thoroughly examine

You

particular.

the

work

in

will

always

find

fully to

you

in ever}'

it it

fully exin

every

bur .agents ladies and

every sense of the word.

way.

We employ And

no

should you

after a careful examination of our system, conclude

you will find our employes very eflficient we never send one out who is not competent in every way both to explain the work and teach it, though it rec|uires but very little teaching, as you will find l>y carefully examining it that it is so simple and the ilirections so plain for its use that any one can by first carefully reading the directions l)e enaiiled to cut any garment tliey may wish without any teaching to leai'n

it,

whatever.

All

we ask

ing that

if

is

you

a fair square trial of our work, knowwill

honestly investigate

it

that

it

will

meet with your approval.

Willi tli(-se few remarks we remain.

has been placed before the pub-

he feels well satisfied that his plan

even beyond

wliy

fully

families.

lic,

hours into pleasure and

his

own

expectations.

No

is

Yours

truly,

a success

lady has ever

A. E.

BEARRIE & CO.

(1)

\

M

)h.

TO APPLY THE FITTER. The

first

thing to be done

THE MEASUREMENTS. We

Measures.

to take the

that the measure

viz.

:

The Ei.row

taken with arm hanging loosely at the

Waist.

commencing at the same of Waist.

Elbow.

point

I^ength of Aiuii.

wrist joint.

down

the

Cake must

taken tight

is

tlie

waist as tight

wishos to wear tho

(h'css

taken straight as

tlie

you

ai'e

party

cutting

The Length of Waist

by

off

is

taken from

backs,

ure,

what

down

etc.

make your base

lines to

work from

by drawing your pencil around the outside follow the directions

ment

all

done

directions

accompanying

whatever diagram

j-on are laying off.

follow directions

For Applying

the Scroll

to connect the points and form the off

Next

di-aft.

is

ont by

laid

garment

be

is

meas-

be found directions

Under

directions telling l;iy

laid

Accom-

sleeves.

measures.

special

the

the Seams. drafted

directions for

by

lay

1 will

rule to use to

On

(if

special

entire

No.

will

dii'ections

For Applying the Rule, governing yourself the

taking measures.

garment

you

off by,

COMMENCING TO DRAFT.

IN

Then

The

and

applying

for

should be attached to the dress straight

of the squai'c.

in

front

di'aft

each draft

the back to the waist, being careful

to elbow point and

rule coiTesponding with chest

the center of l)ack at neck wlnere the collar

First

length

}Âťoint as for

garments are

chest measure.

panying

for.

arm

be used

upper

All is

side,

SPE(;iAL.

arms.

The Waist Measure

is

of waist measure, straight across to shouldei-

above the bust and high up under the

around

Length of Arm

axi>

Chest.

Curst Measure,

TiiK

Next

even with the hips at

is

the side.

take five measiiivs,

Length

ju.st

is

fully the

garment

is

;

when

completed.

Waist that

is

Then

Basting Directions care-

garment can be

put together.

(2)

the Size of

any change be necessary) your

the gar-

follow yonr special

Changing

by reading Our

your seams following the

When

easily

and properly

HOW TO aw

There

APPLY THE RULE.

lour distinct points or places

wlicrc the end ot

tin-

and meusuix-nients

niiide t'roni.

I'nlc

niiisl

iÂťe

[)laced

ent

Length of waist vai-y on differpersons of the same chest measure.

And

the only

waist

lini'.

correct

THE FIRST

way

made

the measure can be

with the tape-line.

is

Ts the to[) of the sidi' hiise line,

where we

THK SPECIAL DIRECTIONS

coninience measuring- to get

length of

Accomi)anying- Diagram 'No. 1, fii'st pattern in the book, fnlly explain this and tell

flie

garments and the points to strike (he aci'oss from to get the width on.

T[IE

where we lay our

lines

you

how

to

make

the waist line

correct.

SECOND

on the cross lines to get the points for width of gai-nK'nts, which stai't from the side base line wheivver they occur on the diagram we are laying off.

Is

i)laiiily

WHEN

rule

IT IS correctf<:d

Place the end of the rule upon the corrected waist line and measure again from that point, in the

same way that you have been

instructed to measure from the base lines

THIRD

TIIK In

V

FROM THE

making measurements with our

which

is

five s[)aces in

given

points

all

IS

laying

By

off.

straight

down

rule,

we measure diagram we are

length,

on the first

an<l the

getting the points

we

the side base line until

reach the end of the

Then at the end we mark a V diagram. Then we

I'ule.

of the rule or the 5th space

upon the

shovyn

as

move

down

the rule

the end of the

I'ule

its full

length, placing

at the point of the

V

we have just marked and commence measuring from that point again, just the same as if we were measui'ing' from the startingpoint.

The 5V occurs on all lines where the rule is not long enough to reach the number

we

on the diagram, and by sim])ly marking- the at the end and moving the rule down if on base line or out if On cross lines, we can get any number of spaces we reipiire

V

The V always occurs on the diagram just as many time's as it is necessary to move i-ule

Wherever you

V

see

tlu-

DVon

the diagram

and move your rule down its full length and measure again from that point just the same as if the rule had not been moved from the niai-k

to])

on side base

the

at the

end of

I'ule

the rule

down

its

full

length, placing the

end of the rule on the point of the V. Now mark points again same as you did above. Next point is 2A, which is waistline, mark it and then follow the directions on changing waist line (if any change is necessary). And then place the end of the rule at the point whei-e the corrected

waist line

is

marked

(as explained in the

special directions with first diagram),

When

2B.

marked on the aci-oss whei-ever

the points are

all

l)ase line,

strike

the lines

they occni- on the diagram all

points

upon the cross lines. When that is done take your scroll and apply it, connectingthe points, as directed in the directions for Api)lying- the Scroll.

And

then mark off

your seams and your diagram

Be the

and

commence measuring your points again.

Next point is IF, next is 2, and next or

IN LAYINc;

is

rule at

V

starting- [)oint.

THE FOURTH Place we commence measurin<>- from

first

line

and then take your rule and get

to get all the points required.

1,

and get the followng points for length. First point is B, then IB, then 2, then 2F, then oB, then 4E. Then we come to the 5V. Now just mark at the end of rule and then move the

last point is

lecpiire.

the

5VTO EXPLAIN THIS FULLY. On the backs of Diagram No. pattern in the book, we place the

com[)leted.

OFF THE SEAMS

careful and follow directions for seams

closely.

(3)

is

HOW TO The

The

and a

scroll bus a liirge

hirye end

used

APPLY THE SCROLL. simply

end.

sjiiall

the eiirves

time.

on Ladies' and Gentlemen's garments, and

wrist

tlie

is

in iiuikiiig-

making the eurves on

small end for

We have two hands

upon the

have hands upon om- diagrams to

Ave also

simplify

its

gram

points, U't the

point

in

same

the

If the

curve

h;ind will be placed

tlie

be drawn,

line to

hiying the scroll on to connect

in

points and

ai'c

diasci'oll

upon the outside of the

place

the

hand ujjon the

dii'cction.

an inward ciu've

and

make

it U()oii

the

will

three

the

yon must

the

also have

the hands

on the diagi'am and the hand on the

same

dii'ection.

same

Wiien

an outward

cui've, the

<li"ift,

and

the

to foi'm

in

line

the points

inside of

it

the

and the hands on the

scroll

the

in

direction.

SPECIAL CURVKS, such

Front

Darts,

Arms Eye

neck Curve,

Front

as

Cui've,

hem

Side

(Jui've,

under arm on front and Side back curve are

marked on the [)licd

scroll so that

with case.

out any

occur with-

Wliert' lines

hands (except

it

can be ap-

it

the

l)e

special

curves just explained) they are sti'aight lines

sci(dl

there

If

upon the

star

points.

ciu've

one

at

and on the <iiagram nmst be pointing

the outside of the ]ioints you th;it

is

a

occur inside of the

down

laying

you must also

line

connecting, being cai'cful

point in the

connect

to be ct)nnectt'd

use.

Whatever way the hand upon

is

And

scroll.

hand has

the

If

curve to be made

hand

Children's garments.

hand connect two points

a:

and must

is

l)e

connected with the

scpiare.

THE SEAMS. Seams

marked with the with the

rule

lint each

ta])e line,

amount

for

seams wherever seams

jjrinted

All seams that are

when you

upon

it

ai'e

lirst

is

allowed

what seam.

letter

to

are

all

places.

low diivctions

the <lraft,

telling

;ire all

you just

marked

off con-

(if

any change

the

same

only

be

(4)

seam the same width

When

drafts

necessary).

as in length

correctly

are

(Âťf

by

waist

Forms in

size

of Avaist and

nuide

all

then fol-

off,

changing- size

is

being

the outline,

same chest measure vary

waist

line.

foi'

the same

in

and seams marked

the rule are

measure to for width of

When all seams

apart at

com[)lete<l

excepting the shoulder seams, which

did

careful to keep the

(o be t;iken.

making

marked on the diagram

mannei' that you

diagram has

that

made with

;uv

nect the points with the tools

aiv

and some are marked

the

laid off

some

arc of diCferent widths,

the

of

of

can tape-

DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING. IX CKNTKi; r.ACK SKAM. waist

Bc'^iii at

and haste

liiu'

IN SIIOII.DER SE.VMS.

Begin

ii[).

on the

HASTIXU SIDE HACK SEAMS.

IX

Hold coiMf

thr hacks to you,

out

ends.

two and

I'ldni tile

Ihr scaiiis

ou

clippiui^-

tlie

sdvteh the side hack

lU'CTssai'T

tVoiM ahout

dowu

without

I'veii

It'

iiiakiii^-

that

our-hait' to tlu'ee iiiciics

(op to

make

tiieui

coiue out

will

Haste l)in

tile

BASTING SIDE SEAMS.

right

the

seam

left side

side seaiu

beginning- at waist line,

same as the at top

left side

first,

up

to

making

it

.

the

neck

the hack

right shoidder seam, stretching

l*in (lie

the

seam

I'roiit

as for left shoulder,

and then

neck hasting to shouliler point.

begin

at

Aftei'

having done your trinnned

hi'

for

down

fitting, all

to

seams

what

just

the whaleb(»nes.

is

seams

All

ii'ou

be-

whale bones.

fore putting in

(op,

come out IN BASTING SLEEVES.

seam, and then l)egin

and haste down

come out even with

should he pressed open with a hot

and then

to

piece.

needed IN

and haste

shoulder, stretching the front so

left

it

should

even.

at shouldei' p(»int

Begin

to waist line, hold-

at the top

and baste down

to waist.

ing the back towards yon.

PUTTING THE SLEEVES JN.

IN IX SIDE UNDEIl A1!M

SEAMS.

Place the back seam at about one-half

Hold

the side backs towai'ds yon, l)ast-

inch Ijelow the side from seam in arm's eye.

ing same as for side back seams.

Baste over the IN

UNDER ARM DARTS AND FKONT DARTS. at

waist line and baste up, after

having the darts hasted

through the

togetlier, cut

the left sleeve, being careful that

you get both sleeves

open

centei'.

of sleeve, holding the

sleeve towai'ds you, sew in the right sleeve first, i)in

Begin

to[)

in

exactly alike.

There should he a basting thread run around the to

make

it

to|)

full

of (he nppei- sleeve jioitiou

over the shoulder.

IN HEM.

Run

a basting thread on

hem

line

leave ojjen to do fitting, pinning to

fit

and

BEFORE FITTING.

the

Clip

I'oi'm.

above IN

Begin

ALE

SEA:\IS I'.KI.OW

at waist

WAIST.

cli])s.

and baste down.

close.

(5)

all

seams at waist and for an inch

and below waist, making several

Be

careful

not to clip them too

LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE. FOR MEDIUM FIGURES.

3A

3B-2F -

2 B-2-IF

2

TO LAY OFF BACKS.

Make

base lines

Then suppose we

first.

are cutting for a lady

waist

whose measures are

waist line or point

Now

23.

Length of "Wnist

Elbow 191/2.

Length of Arm

Add

one inch to

last

as

15h'-2.

shorten point

you did the waist

Now

rected waist line

29.

two measures amount

measure 2OV2 and the length of arm 30

from base

33 whicli corresponds

rule

with chest measure and then follow direcfor

tions

points ive

applying the rule, marking

down

which

is

base line to point

the letter

Now take

waist line.

and measure from the

B down

first

15i/.i

the length of waist

2A

all

inclus-

tape line

we want, and mark

it,

one-half as

line, or ^/^ of

Now

line points

strike lines across

wherever they occur

them scroll

all

and

connect

points

according to

hands on draft following special directions on (Applying the Scroll).

Then

lay

off

all

marked on diagram drawn and use

seams as

scroll in tlie

same maimer

laying them

it

is

necessary to

make

Kead

carefully directions for

Next

the (6)

is

off.

they are

inside of the lines just

the waist line point marked with the tape find

points on

Then take

width of garment.

for

to coiniect your points for the

we

an inch.

(accoi'ding to direc-tions

and then by measuring the difference between point 2A (original waist line), and

line,

much

rule at the cor-

on the diagram, and then get

point marked or

inches on base line

4E

on points to measni'e from), and mark the points for skirt.

Take

which we marked

place the end of

required for seams, which makes the elbow

inches.

2A

with rule.

Chest 33.

Waist

of an inch shorter than original

V.i

seam

lines.

seams before

LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.

FOR MKDIUM FIGURES.

FRONT.

IE- lA

2 A- IF

TO LAY OFF

Proceed off

mark

made

shorten

same

as

the same manner as for laying-

When

hacks.

reacluid,

are

in

Avaist

And

it.

line point

we

waist on Front did

not measure

you did on

l)acks.

it.

we must

Then

shoiten

line

lilies

points

place 3'onr

Then

and get

all

rule

or

'â&#x20AC;˘s

of

upon the

|

|

at to|) of

tions for

I

dart.

all

points

l)y

following the direc-

Applying the

Scroll, excepting the

Do

large or under

not draw those

test size of waist.

(7)

strike the cross

take the scroll and connect

points that form the

'''4

2K and

Then

points for width on them.

shown on diagram

tape-line as

point

Then

mneh

one-half as

points for length.

on backs,

Simply measure up

B

and

corrected waist line and finish getting your

of an inch,

line

down with

of an inch fiom waist

mark

â&#x20AC;˘V4

A

an inch.

is

on hacks, to make front

come even again with waist

You do

darts

as out waist lines

to he placed together,

tlu'

2E

FRONT.

lines

until

arm

we

TO TEST

SIZE

OF WAIST.

and E on waist line, which form the large or under arm dart, one-fourth of

4D

There are two fronts and two each of the back pieces, so we have one-half of the

I)oints

pattern

an inch apart.

Having hnt one-half

of the pattern, to

Move

any correction

one-half

correct our size of waist (if

be necessary) we take one-half of the actual waist measure which with the waist measure (23) we are drafting- to would be ll"/o inches.

the

By

measuring the goods across

on waist line, leaving out all seams, hems and darts, we find it measures pattern

which is too large, as we only want the measni-e to be llV> inches or onell'V4 inches,

fourth of an inch smaller.

make it move

I*^ow, to

point

E

one-eightli of an inch or

amount of

change and point 4D one-eighth of an inch, which makes one-fourth of an inch.

By moving apart the two points one-half the amount of change required on each side, it keeps the garment in pi'opoition, wherein if it were all changed on one side it would throw the garment all out of shape.

Now draw your lines for inider arm dart and j^onr diagram is

one-fourth of an inch smaller we simply

the

tlie

completed. ^N'ext is

UPPER SLEEVE. 3F

TO LAY OFF UPPER SLEEVE. Lay front,

off sleeve

marking

tom of base

same plan

all

line.

as on

backs and

down to the botThen to get proper

points

sleeve measure, on back from seam line at top of neck at center of back to seam line point at shoulder point at

length of

arm's eye. inches.

We

find the

measure to be

ISTow place the 7'

j

base line or top of sleeve and at 2OV2 inches down on base

at

7i/4

the top of

make

a point

line, Avhich is

elbow measure, and then at oO, which is length of arm measure. Point E beingelbow point, we next measure the difference between elbow point just marked and oi-iginal elbow point E and find it to be one-

eighth of an inch.

The

original

elbow

point would be one-eighth of an inch too long, consequently we shorten the elbow point one-eighth of an point is shortened we

point

ID

come

to length of

When

incli.

nnist

the same amount.

elbow

also shorten

Then when we

arm by measuring the between point 30, mai-ked with and ])oiut 4F, which is length of

difference

tape line arm point marked with rule, we find the difference to be one-half of an inch.

So we must shorten the liottom point onehalf an inch.

Whenever bottom ]ioint is shortened we nnist also shoi-ten point 3G the same amount.

(8)

N"ext

is

UNDER SLEEVE. 2G

TO LAY OFF UNDER SLEKVE."

Proecc*! sleeve.

base

same

AVlicn

line,

as

all

in

off Tipper

layiiitj;-

jxiints are

then shorten

marked down

As

eli)o\v

:

also

l)i'

same as waist

linos, point, r)V

shorU'ni'd-one-eig'hth of an

andBG,

same ason

must

also

shortened

points nuistcome

same

as they were on n[)i)er sleeve.

E, which

is

I

Ite

must

iiicdi,

toni points.'JB

jioint

elboAV point, one-eighth of an inch

upper sleeve.

tog-etlici'

hot-

leno-thof arm |)oints.

one-half an inch

3A-2G

TO LAY OFF COLLAR. Lay

off collar in the

length with tape line to

fit

same manner yon the neck.

(!')

di<l

hacks and fronts, making-

i(

I

he propei-

THE CHANGES. Two

ladies of the

same chest

measiu'ciiu'iit

may vary

in size

of waist, L. of waist, L.

of arm, etc.

We

will

suppose, for instance, the measures had heen

Chest ;ÂŤ.

Waist 24V2.

L. of Waist

Elbow L. of

By

:

"

17.

20.

Arm

30.

adding- the one inch for seams to last

two measures

it

makes them

21 elbow

and

31 L. of arm.

we would have to lengthen waist line five-eighths of an inch in place of Which is done in the same manner as to shorten it, only yon move your waist line j)oint down in ]ilace of up.

If waist line is lengthened, you must also lengthen point IE one-half as much as you do waist line.

When you come to front, yon must also lengthen the waist line the same amount as you do on backs and the top of darts one-half as much as you do waist line and always In that case

shortening

in

it.

the same direction.

On measure

size of w;tist,

if tiie

measure had

i)een 2iK'->,

we want

the one-half of pattern to

measure 11-V4 inches. and K, one-half inch closer together, moving each point in one-fourth of an inch, which would throw in one-half inch more goods at waist line, IIV4 original measure and one-half would be 12V4. The measure we want, twice 12v 4 would be 21:>/l', the waist measure we ai"e drafting to.

If ell)ow measure had been 21 and the length of arm 31, it would have been necessary to lengthen elltow point three-eighths of an inch, and L. of arm one-half an inch.

As original rule points would not have been long enough.

Always remember in shortening or lengthening elbow jioint E, you nuist shorten or lengthen (as the case maybe) point ID the same amount and where point 4F bottom of sleeve is lengthened or shoi-tened you must always lengthen or shorten |)oint 3G the same amount.

When you come to under sleeve i)ortion. lengthen or shorten, as the case may require, ell)ow point E and the r>V, and also ])oints3CT and 31) the same amount that you do the same points on uppei- sleeve, and in tiie same direction.

Under each garment will be given the necessary measures for laying it off, all points that may require changes and all directions necessary.

Read them carefully before attempting to cut the garment.

The garments do not generally need changing but in case they do, to fit them to tape measurement, we give all points on all garments that may have to be changed.

121/4 or one-half inch longer, as one-half of the pattern did

To make the change move the two

points

4D

;

DRAFTS

1

AND

2

Are so designed that any one wishing to use a plain back and French bias front can Or if one wishes to reverse and use back and side, back of No. 1 and front of No. 2.

Any sleeve desired use the backs of No. 2 and plain front of 'No. 1 they can do so.

may be

cut with any draft.

THE SHADING OR FINK CROSS LINES Show

just

what amount of the diagram

is

made up

represents the cloth.

(10)

into the

garment, or

in

other words,

LADIES' BASQUE,

FRENCH

BIAS.

BACKS.

28-2"^

Taki'

chust,

correspondiiiij;-

waist.

If

as the case

hne and

lAFOB

7?\*E-4'^

waist,

lciii;lh

with eliest measure.

elbow,

waist,

oi'

Measure

and

dowu from

any chaug-e be necessary, 2 A being waist

may

in llie

re(iaire.

same

Points 4:E and

4A

U'lig-th

of

letter

B

line [)oiut,

ai'iii.

to

i>-et

Use

rule

lenglli

lengthen or shorten

of it,

must be changed one-half as nuieh us waist

diieetioii.

UNDER ARM GORE.

IF ?D

Undeisht)rtened.

arm gore Point

3G

is

laid

being

off

by same

waist line

rule.

If

point, mns(

amount.

(11)

waist on backs

be lengthened

or

is

lengthened or

shortened same

LADIES'

BASQUE FRENCH

BIAS.

FRONT.

;c 2 B

B A 2C

3G

WAiai

3B

U.se f-aiiit: rule.

If vvai.sl, lini>s liavo beeu leiinthi'iRMl or .sIkii'Iiik'iI, li'i]j;Uifii or slioilcu poiiil L'C, wliicli is wai.st line, .same amoiiiit as ou Ijaclis ami under .-irni gore and lop of darts A and li one-lialf as nuieli in the same direction. WLieii seau)s are all laid off test .size of waist, if eliange be necessary, move |ioiiit C on waist line on uutler arm gore, and |ioiut .J on waist line on front iie.Kt to under arm gore oue-lialf tlie amount of cliauge re(|uired, in tlie same manner that change was made ou Diagram No. 1 in under arm dart. If tlie waist needs to be larger the points are moved towards each other. If smaller, they are moved apart.

LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 3n

IF-IC^- F

3Q

3«

c

£.

Use rule corresponding with chest measuri'. Point If bottom poiut be changed change points IC F

'1

— —

/5\

3D-3B'

1G

IB

elbow line. If it be changed change point E same amount.

3G and 3A. same amount and in the same directions. is

(12)

.

LADIES'

MORNING DRESSING WAIST. BACK.

2B

2A-1F Tiikc clR'st

is

c-licst

iisrd.

waist, L. waist, I'lhow and

"2X

oil

back

("lian<4C point 5\' oiK'-liaii' (iu'

waisi

is

orai-iii iiicasiii't's.

\j.

(JliaM^c to

point.

lit

link' con'ospondiiii; witii

tape

line

inuasuicincnl

amount.

FRONT.

A/ยง\

To [loint

lay off front use

2D same amount

get pro[)er size of waist

same

If waist

ruk-.

and top of

change

C

(hirt

A

liiu'

is

[)oints

line

much the same direction. To on under arm dart in or out (as the

waist measiu'i'.

(i;5)

lE-lft

changed on back, change waist

one-half as

and iC

case may. require) to exact size of tape

4A-3E

MORNING DRESSING WAIST.

LADIES'

GATHERED SLEEVE.

UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same

IG must point,

rule,

leiigtlieu or shorten, to

tape measui'enieut

be changed same auiouut as elbow ami

in

and point 1 must be elianged same amount

Gather to

iit

notches between

])oints

same

(lii'ection

as [toint 5,

2E and 2F on under

point

;

if

;

E

is

i)()int

5

elbow point; is

any change

L. of arm is

made.

sleeve.

UNDER SLEEVE 2E

3F

To

lay off

2F

3

under sleeve use same rule

amount

as points

E

amount

as points

-i

and and

IG

;

points

C

and

on upper sleeve, and points o and

5.

(14)

4F must oF must

be changed same be changed same

LADIES' PLAIN BASOUE. BACKS.

2B-2-tF

1A

"/ยง^

3-20-JG

4-A-3E

1A

Waist

Take point line

chest,

A to

waist,

L. of waist, ell)ow

lA, marked

g'et leng'th of waist,

measure.

If waist

waist,

ehang-e ]>oint

is cli;ing-ed,

leni>th of

aiul is

arm, measure down from

waist line point.

4A

Chaiigc to

fit

tnpe

one-luiH' the ninoiuit.

FRONT.

2A-1E

^E-4D-3G-3D-2G

IE V/AIST

To line

lay off fi-ont use

point

same

IE same amount

I'ule.

;ind

on back has been changed, chano-o waist top of darts 4E and 4D one-half as much.

If any

necessary in'size of waist,

ehang-e

is

and D,

in or out, as the change

may

If waist

regulate require.

(15)

it

at

under arm dart,

mrn ing points 4E

LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.

GATHERED SLEEVE.

UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same with

it.

amount.

(If

rule.

Point

4F

change be made) oF

Gather

to

fit

is

is

ell)ow mid point

L. of arm point.

1

is

If

to be elianged

it is

same amount

chnngcd, change

notches on luider sleeve between points

2D

2G same

and 2E.

UNDER SLEEVE. 2E

20

20

8>^

W^ Use same 4:D and

3G

rule.

If points

4F

and

1

are

changed on upper

same amount, and 2E and 2 same amount (16)

as L. of

sleeve,

change points

arm measures 3F and 2G.

LADIES' BASQUE. FOR STOUT FKJUKES.

2B-2-IF

Take chest.

chest, waist, L. waist, elbow, L. of arm.

Measure from point

A

to get

L. of waist, change

Use

G

rule

waist

corresponding with

linc'

point to

fit

tape

measurement and point 4 one-half as much.

UNDER ARM GORE.

ie-ic

Usf same same amount.

rule.

If

waist line

was changed on hacks, change

waist

line

point

2G

FRONT.

2?"

^4D-4C-3F

IC WAIST

Use same Change as

rule

if

waist Hne point

nmch.

ID

waist lines have been changed on backs and under arm gore.

IC same amount and

[)()ints

4D

and IC

at top of darts one-half

may

If size of waist needs changing, let out or take, as the case

require,

point 2Ct on under arm goi-e next to fi'ont and ])oint4E on front next to under arm gore.

Change them same

as

change

is

made

in

under ai'm

dart.

UPPER SLEEVE. 3E

3D

Lay

3E

is

off

by same rule;,5V

L. of arm point.

If

is

elbow.

If

i^

changed, change point

changed, change 2(t same amount.

(18)

3F

F

same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE. 2G

2G Use same elijovv

points

-

y^G-4C

2B

rule.

If

5V

and

same amount, and

F

also

l-G

have been changed on upper, change

2G

and 2B same as 8E and

(19;

2G

4G

and 40

on upper sleeve.

LADIES' 5

TEA GOWN.

LADIES'

TEA GOWN.

FRONT.

LADIES'

TEA GOWN.

UPPER SLEEVE.

4E

Use same

3G

rule.

L. of arm measure.

D

is

elbow.

If changed,

If necessary to

change

and

ID same amount.

4E

is

change, change 3Ct same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE, 2E

2G Lay

off

by same

2B rule.

Lengthen

elbow point on upper sleeve, and

or shorten points

4D

2G and 2B same amount

(22)

and

SG same amount

as points

4E and 3G.

as

D

LADIES' SKIRT. FOR MEDIUM FIGURES. SIDE GORE.

FRONT GORE.

lA

lenir^lfn.^PnTi'in'"''-, ,'{ ,"^ """.'-^

T y^hi"v

aver'iBu ronns

'

'*'"-'" "='" '"<•" '•-'""'ged on front gore, ch.anKc *" »"'«'">' ""'1 5V onohalf .as much.

"I" fc'""il' a'-out 40 laches wide tor

"'"'l'' ""' """'«'" >^'«™

(23)

Take waisi and length ot skirt. Use rule corrcsi)ondmeasure Take ia^e 1.. "!p"'""= L. oi of sKirt skirt measure In froii front and lT,',l';,il™'*' lengthen or shorten, as the case may reoulrc.

Kront core to tape l.ne measurement bottom point lli Is length point "^*' '"""" ' """" "'""""' "'"' •'°"'' *<= on« hal aTmuil ,',',','rf

LADIES' SKIRT. FOR STOUT FIGURES.

FRONT GORE.

SIDE GORE. u.

Use

_.4M ^

.f»

'°

rule con-esponding- with waist measure.

Follow the same rule as

Take L. of skirt measure same way and made exactly the same as on No. 7.

No. 7

skirt.

(24)

if

in cutting-

changes are necessary they are

LADIES' SKIRT YOKE.

48

TE

«^

F-C/^\4E

Take waist measure and use

2C -

t

D-

1

/sVJ.

D- 4-3E** 2 C

rule corresponding therewith.

one wishes.

(25)

It

lA

can be cnt as deep as

FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES.

BACK.

Take regulate

chest,

2B

waist, L. of waist, el))ow

and L. of arm, measure down from

A

and

waist ])oint to tape measurement.

2PÂťac wamt

To

lay off front use

amount on

same

rule.

If waist

has been changed on back, change same

front.

Cut waistband, which

is

a straight piece of goods, about two inches wide to exact

waist measure and gather fronts between points

2A

and 3G, to

fit

waistband.

(26)

IG

and 3C and backs between points

FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES. COLLAR.

2B

3E-3C

Lay

by same

off collar

rule.

IB

Reg-ulate size of neck by tape line.

UPPER SLEEVE. <VE

Use same

rule.

G

arm measures.

is

Measure down from

tttp

point where the

X

is

for elboAv

and L. of

elbow point. If necessary to change, change IF same amount.

point B, L. of arm, has of sleeve

E

from point

to be

C

changed, change -IB point same amount.

on cross line at point 2 to point

4A

on cross

If

Gathei- around line

at

point

IB.

UNDER SLEEVE. 2E

3e

To

2G

under sleeve use same

/S\

\j.

'20

4.0 If

rule.

4D and 5V same amount, and arm points on upper sleeve.

change of

lay off

.

of

elbow has

ann

(27)

lioints

1A.1

Iieen

',\V]

changed on upper sleeve

and 2(J same amount as L.

MISSES' BASQUE. OPEN^ IN FRONT. BACKS.

2B-2-1F

Take

38- 2Q

chest, waist, L. of waist,

ength of waist, change 2C waist

â&#x20AC;˘

elbow and length of arm.

line point to

fit,

2A

IC

Measure

fi'om

B

to get

and 4E point one-half the amount.

FRONT.

2A

II

Use same rule. If same amount and B top under arm

dai-t,

same

waist has been changed on

back, change

of dart point one-half the amount.

as othei' basques.

(28)

2F

Regulate

waist

line

point

size of waist

at

MISSES' BASQUE. UPPER SLEEVE.

Use same

rule.

L. of arm point.

If

F

is

elbow point.

changed, change

If

4A

changed, change IE same amount.

5V

is

same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE. 3

4A

Use same

3D

rule.

If elbow points

and length of arm points have been changed on

upper sleeve, change them same amount on under sleeve.

(29)

MISSES' BASQUE. OPEN

IN BACK.

BACKS.

4G

2A

2 1F-1D

3

WAIST

Take length of

chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow waist.

2A

is

waist line.

20

IE

Measure from

and length of arm.

Change

to

fit.

1

If changed,

B

to test

change 4B one-

half the amount.

FRONT.

3B

Use same rule. same amount. Top under arm dart same

5V

\E

changed on back, change waist

If waist has been

of dart point

20

one-half

as in other basques.

(30)

as

much.

Regulate

line point

size

2A

of waist at

MISSES' BASQUE.

UPPER SLEEVE. 3E

Lay sleeves.

off

4F

is

by same

rule

elbow point,

;

3t

regulate elbow and L. of

3D

L, of arm.

«%-

3F

arm measures same

Change 2F same amount

as

as

on other

3D.

UNDER SLEEVE. 2G

20

Lay elbow point

off

iA

by same

rule.

If

changes have been made on upper sleeve, change

and L. of arm points 2F and

2A

(31)

same amount.

CHILD'S WAIST.

BACK.

G-F

Take

chest,

IE WAIST

waist,

length of waist, change

IE

B

G

L. of waist, elbow and L. of arm. waist line point to

fit

Measure from

B

for

tape measiii'ement.

FRONT.

G-F

2A WAlsn

Use same

rule.

If

waist has been changed, change

amount.

(32)

2A

waist line point same

CHILD'S APRON. BACK.

Take cbest icK

down from

L. ol waist

aud

full

poiut C, and full length

urement and point 3E

to full length

kusth

iu

the back, use rule correspoucling with chest.

by measuring down from

measurement.

If

point 3E

(33)

is

Regulate waist by .nea-ur-

Change waist line point 2D to tape changed, change 2F the same amount. point C.

line

meas-

CHILD'S APRON. FRONT.

To lay off front use same i-vile. If waist has been changed on back change waist line point same amount If length points have been changed on back, change and 2C same amount.

(34)

2D 3E

CHILD'S APRON UPPER SLEEVE. 3G

4A list' Itiii^tli

of

3C

saiuc rule.

5V

arm point AA

to

is

elbow.

Change

to

fit

tapf measureiiiciit

L. of arm tape measurement.

Change 3C

if

point

necessary and

same amount.

UNDER SLEEVE. 3B

3C Use same and

2E L.

of

rule

arm

2E

/sX

4B

G

and make changes as directed on other sleeves.

4B

is

points.

40 Use same

rule.

Regulate to

fit

(35)

size of

neck by tape

line.

elbow and oC

LADIES' CHEMISE. BACK. rr.

LADIES' CHEMISE. FRONT. â&#x20AC;¢i-t

00

o

C8

o

FRONT.

MOTHER HUBBARD NIGHT DRESS.

LADIES'

SLEEVE.

3A-2C-2A Use same to

fit.

Make

Gather sleeves

riik-.

lengtii

/Q\

whatever yon

4C

1G-1E-1B-G

at points marked gather.

If 3'on change point

desire.

the same amount.

-iC

is

YOKE.

-^nfe«^,

Lay

off

3B-3 by same rule.

1

ID Fit to size of neck with tape.

(40)

elbow.

Change

HA, change 2C and

2A

LADIES' DRAWERS.

Take waist and length

desired.

Use

rule corresponding with waist measure.

If

used, cut off two and one-half inches from top of pattern.

Cut on the outside line for l)acks and then turn away the goods and cut on the inside line for fronts.

yoke

is

YOKE.

4F

3-28

E

Lay

off

A'^E - 3D hy same rule.

(41)

1G

MISSES' DRAWERS.

Take

waist and lengtli desired.

exact size of waist and

g-athei-

Follow same rule as

goods into

it.

line for fronts.

(42)

lor

Cut by outside

No.

17.

line for

Make

a

band

backs and inside

GENTS' SACK COAT. BACK

Take foi-

chest, L. of waist, full length in back,

L. of arm, measui-e down to knuckle tape measurement and point

fit

4E

joint.

to full length

elbow and length of arm.

Measure from

A

In measuring

and make IF waist to

measurement.

FRONT.

4G-40-4

Use same If

WAIBT

rule.

length point

4G

front. changes have been made on back, make siimc cluinges on 4 and iJA same amount. has to be changed, cbangv points 41) If

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

(43)

GENTS' SACK COAT. UPPER SLEEVE. 3F

\^2A

5-4C

G

Use same

rule.

/5\

3

- 2A

IB

-

e

Regulate length same as on other sleeves.

UNDER SLEEVE.

4D-4 Use same

O

i-ule.

If

/5\

2E

1E-1C-G

any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same changes on

under sleeve.

3-2F-28 Lay

off

by same

rule.

Fit to neck (44)

by tape measure.

GENTS' VEST. BACK.

Iir

Take

-.1A

chest and length of waist

2E - 2-1D

Use

ID

WAIST

sanu- rulo.

CÂť2D

;

regulate length of waist with tape.

G - 8/5\ 4.E.4A

IC-IA

WAIST

If waist lias

been

changed on back change waist on front same

amount.

(45)

GENTS' PANTS. â&#x20AC;¢

GENTS' PANTS. FRONT.

GENTS' DRESSING GOWN. â&#x20AC;¢^.2

UNDER SLEEVE.

Use same

rale.

Make

changes according to upper sleeve.

o

s

::

c

4J

FRONT.

GENTS'

AND

BOYS' DRAWERS.

(50)

WAIST BAND.

1B-1-F -

B

TO LAY OFF DRAWERS. Take

hip measure and in

Take length measure on point

B down

in

seam from Fork

to

rule corresponding with hip measure.

Ankle.

To

test length

change bottom point 2C to tape measurement and knee

half the amount.

If waist is to

be made longer

smaller take up goods in Dart half the waist band as

Use

seam measure.

is

required at point

2D

let

out point

amount on each

to

fit

the tape

^51)

side.

E

measure from

line at

on cross

line

F

point

IC.

If

Shorten or lengthen the

measuiement for

waist.

GENTS' NIGHT SHIRT. BACK.

H-]

FRONT.

SLEEVE.

Lay

off Ijy

same

rule.

Add

one inch to L. of arm measure (which

is

taken wrist joint), for

making up

;

E.

is

elbow point.

NECK BAND.

3G«3F»3B

Lay

off

1C

by same

rule.

Xt-ek

band should be 2 inches longer than measure to allow for making up.

(53)

GENTS' CO

AND

BOYS'

SACK SHIRT.

GENTS'

AND

BOYS'

SACK SHIRTS.

FRONT.

Lay

off

by same

rule.

BOSOM.

Lay

off

by same

(55)

rule.

GENTS'

AND

BOYS'

YOKE

SHIRT.

A ^c

3B - 20

BACK.

Q-C/5\4D Take

3E

IF

chest, L. waist, L. of ai-m, neck and

sponding- with chest measure.

Gather the goods to

fit

It is

laid

off

just

the yoke.

FRONT.'

i'lill

the

k'liotli

same

in

B

hack; use rale corre-

wa}- as

Nos. 24 and

25.

GENTS'

AND

BOYS'

YOKE

SHIRT.

SLEEVE.

3B-3A

Use same

rule.

F-D-*\

2F

Use same

rule.

YOKE. COLLAR. C -«* aA«3

IE -

Use same

3F'3e

1

2D

Use same

rule.

(57)

IC-G rule.

BOYS'

SACK COAT.

2A

I^o. full

27 Boys' Sack Coat

length

in

for length of full

is

laid off

by the following measures

:

Chest, L. of waist,

back, elbow and length of arms to knuckle joint; measure waist and full length.

length 4 to

fit

Shorten

or

down from B

lengthen IGr waist point to

fit,

and

tape measurement.

FRONT.

lF-10

Lay

off b}^

same

rule.

2 WAIST

C/^\VF.^C'4.3F.3B

Make changes same

inch on left front.

(58)

as on back,

IC'IB-lA

if

any.

Cut

off one-half

BOYS' SACK COAT. UPPER SLEEVE. 4

^O'^SQ

Lay

2F-1G-1B-D

C/Q\ off

by same

rule, i-egulate leno-th

same

as other sleeves.

UNDER SLEEVE. 3C 3A

2C -

4A-3J>

Lay

off

by same

If

rule.

.ca

ID/IC-G

any changes are made on upper

sleeve,

changes on under sleeve.

*

Lay

off

by same

-3C

2B

1

rule, test to tape line

(59)

measurement for

size.

make same

BOYS' VEST. BACK.

WAiax

Take

chest, L. of waist and full length; use rule corresponding with

regulate length of waist and full length

same

as

chest,

on Gents' Vest.

FRONT.

2a-1G-1B

B-3

F-D /5\4-D

3C

1(

V/AlST

Lay inch on

off

by same

rule, follow

same

directions as for Gents' Vest.

left front.

(60)

Cut

off half

BOYS' WAIST.

1E.1D

WAIST

To

lay off boys' waist, take chest, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm.

waist length from point B.

same change on

If

ID

waist be changed, change

IE same amount.

Locate

Make

front.

FRONT.

2E-2C WAIST

Lay

off

by same

sfoods into waist band. ^

rule.

Waist band

is

a straight piece of goods.

(61)

Gather the

UPPER SLEEVE.

2FLay

off

Lay

A

2A

by same

off

rule.

by same

4c

IG

-

1

Regulate length same as on other sleeves.

rule, regulating

(62)

according to upper sleeve.

BOYS' PANTS.

BACK.

1E-1C

To

1

lay off pants, take hip, waist, L. of

corresponding with hip measure and

same

as in gents' pants.

3A

point

knee and

is

knee

line

and IE

(if

F-D-C

length measm-e.

full

make same changes

E

Use

rule

any changes are necessary)

is full

length point.

FRONT.

^~1^ Lay front.

off

4-3E-3A

by same

To make

rule.

If

any changes be made on back make same changes on

waist larger let out point

F

smaller change in dart on back.

(63)

on top one-half the amount

;

if

to

make

LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS

014 061 876 7

3E*3B'3

Lay

off

by same

rule.

Waist band

is

a straight piece of goods about IV2 inches wide.

(64)

r-

I

V

TT 520 .B3Q Copy 1

^

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

014 061 876 7

place our system of Fitting

xier

befcl

rare

nents for ^ood workers.

Those who

are out of

employment or

otlicis

wishing

to

change

I

their business will find our

work a very

pleasant, easy

and profitable

business.

WRITE FOR TERMS. Lc-

/2 inc. js wide.

OFFICE, 1220 OLIYE STREET, ST. LOUIS, MO.

\

TT 520 .B38 ^

Copy

1

/

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

i'lllll

1

il

014 061 876 7

Hollinger Corp.

pH8.5