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^ TT 520 .B28
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TT 520
B38
c°»vi
iS-MAKINC AND TAILORING
MADE
EASY.
Entered according to Act of Congress, A. E.
BEARRIE,
in
the year 1890, by
|
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
A^^PI\|TrO ^^^^"'^ * ^
\iii A.
—we want mTCr\ Cl^s
WWA^Ill
I
All mail should be addressed to A. E.
both Ladies and Gentlemen
in
all
parts
of the United States to represent our business.
BEARRIE,
1220 Olive
St., St.
Louis,
Mo.
m'
^Wl"?]
MANAGER.
i me
m
^9f
;^,.0T DRESS
.„
m
2—
OLIVK STREET,
1220
«5
f-
3=»
ST.
LOUIS,
JVIO.
i 31 <i <: <^
<1
COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS 1
IN
THE ART OF I
CUTTING ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS.
:§i «:
m Ji
V*
"'l^^^,~~g7~"^7i~^^ ~"i^iJ~lliMl¥iIMiiTiiiiiij^^ ®ltlil¥!®ri~.F9"*7%ri^ -— — -w v'^v y 'wv 'VVV9 v'w w -w WW WW 'WW ^»"WT»W WW ^r w w »» T Nixos-JoNEs Printing Co., 212 Pine i^treet, St. Louts, Mo.
w w^
Xo THK
Public.
--joe^-
Wl'.UK are thousands and tlioiisands of (lollais nniiiially spcnl, in tliis country'
for
llio
ments,
and
(iilling
llipreliy
niakiiiij;
but
exist,
tlic
expense, lime required
and the intricacies of
learn,
systems of cutting heretofore have placed of families
it
so far beyond
use,
in
tiie
the
reacii
kno\vle<lge, to be efficient in the
tiial tiie
art of cutting, lias been almost out of the question.
As
it
costs
many
dollars to learn anything of
and months of time and
all
it
at
studj'.
Then it could not easily lie done; new calculations must be made for every different garment, and it ke|)t the parly who learned it in a constant study in order any aceuracj' whatever. The art through these disadvantages has only been learned by those who wished to make the art of garment cutting a profession. Ver}' few ladies outside of those making it a profession thoroughly understand garment cutting. In fact 1)ut very few know anytiiing to cut witii
of
it
it
We
gar-
of
makinp; a great expense
u|)on every household that shouUl not
to
used
that has not praised liolh
|)erfeetness
f)f
its
We
the country.
have never sold one
that has not given jierfect satisfaclion.
There are many systems of cutting in use, l)ul ail more or less imperfect in their work, and these cutting but very few g.arments, most of them, but one bascjue, and that in many cases only to the waist line. Our system covers tiie entire field of cutting. We cut not only one garment l)ut every garment worn by ladies, gentlemen and children. No matter what it is our system outs it. It is
based upon the
whicii ai'e used in
(inest scientific principles
known,
mechanical work, and therefore
all
liasing our work upon llie only correct methods of measurements and calculatiojis which are used by all classes of irechanics we have been able to produce a
correct scientific work.
And
moments
requires but a few
it
what we We do not
that
for us to prove
saj' is true.
insist
by any means that
learn our work, but there are a great
at all.
simplicity .nnd the
work.
arc in receipt daily of testiuionial letters fioin
parts of
all
its
ever}'
many
one shall
ladies idling
While the ladies are not to Itlame on account of the disadvantages they must go through in order to be enal)led to do cutting. Yet this should not be so. Evei'y lad}', young or old, should understand as well how to cut and make garments as she should all other domestic duties. She should understand as well how to cut herself a dress as she should know how to prepare a meal of victuals or any other duty allotted to woman, and yet we find but verj' few informed upon this most neces-
away hour after hour of time whocoidd, if they knew how to cut and fit the garments for the family, save a great expense upon the household and turn their idle
sarj' part of
Even if she should not wish her duties. make the garments herself, she should at least know how they were cut and how tliey were made. If every lad}- understood the cutting and making of garments she could save more in her home every year
gentlemen
to
others and they will always be found willing to explain
than ui)on most any other duty of
teachers, as
tlie
household.
Seeing this great necessity for some simple metiiod of garment cutting for to be used in the family, the inventor, after years of practical experience and study, finally
produced
"The
I'erfect
he feels assured will meet
tliis
Dress Fitter," wiiich
great public necessity.
His aim has been to make
it so simple and yet so any lady could with Itut very little instruction be enabled to cut any article of wearing apparel worn by themselves or members of their
perfect, that
And judging from received wherever
it
the
way
the " Fitter" has been
it
profit,
should not be done when
and there is no reason it can be accomi)liÂŤlied
so easily.
We
would
every lady or gentleman who has
like for
an o(iportunity of seeing our work to have plained to them and thoroughly examine
You
particular.
the
work
in
will
always
find
fully to
you
in ever}'
it it
fully exin
every
bur .agents ladies and
every sense of the word.
way.
We employ And
no
should you
after a careful examination of our system, conclude
you will find our employes very eflficient we never send one out who is not competent in every way both to explain the work and teach it, though it rec|uires but very little teaching, as you will find l>y carefully examining it that it is so simple and the ilirections so plain for its use that any one can by first carefully reading the directions l)e enaiiled to cut any garment tliey may wish without any teaching to leai'n
it,
whatever. All
we ask
ing that
if
is
you
a fair square trial of our work, knowwill
honestly investigate
it
that
it
will
meet with your approval. Willi tli(-se few remarks we remain.
has been placed before the pub-
he feels well satisfied that his plan
even beyond
wliy
fully
families.
lic,
hours into pleasure and
his
own
expectations.
No
is
Yours
truly,
a success
lady has ever
A. E.
BEARRIE & CO.
(1)
\
M
)h.
TO APPLY THE FITTER. The
first
thing to be done
THE MEASUREMENTS. We
Measures.
to take the
that the measure
viz.
:
The Ei.row
taken with arm hanging loosely at the
Waist.
commencing at the same of Waist.
Elbow.
point
I^ength of Aiuii.
wrist joint.
down
the
Cake must
taken tight
is
tlie
waist as tight
wishos to wear tho
(h'css
taken straight as
tlie
you
ai'e
party
cutting
The Length of Waist
by
off
is
taken from
backs,
ure,
what
down
etc.
make your base
lines to
work from
by drawing your pencil around the outside follow the directions
ment
all
done
directions
accompanying
whatever diagram
j-on are laying off.
follow directions
For Applying
the Scroll
to connect the points and form the off
Next
di-aft.
is
ont by
laid
garment
be
is
meas-
be found directions
Under
directions telling l;iy
laid
Accom-
sleeves.
measures.
special
the
the Seams. drafted
directions for
by
lay
1 will
rule to use to
On
(if
special
entire
No.
will
dii'ections
For Applying the Rule, governing yourself the
taking measures.
garment
you
off by,
COMMENCING TO DRAFT.
IN
Then
The
and
applying
for
should be attached to the dress straight
of the squai'c.
in
front
di'aft
each draft
the back to the waist, being careful
to elbow point and
rule coiTesponding with chest
the center of l)ack at neck wlnere the collar
First
length
}Âťoint as for
garments are
chest measure.
panying
for.
arm
be used
upper
All is
side,
SPE(;iAL.
arms.
The Waist Measure
is
of waist measure, straight across to shouldei-
above the bust and high up under the
around
Length of Arm
axi>
Chest.
Curst Measure,
TiiK
Next
even with the hips at
is
the side.
take five measiiivs,
Length
ju.st
is
fully the
garment
is
;
when
completed.
Waist that
is
Then
Basting Directions care-
garment can be
put together.
(2)
the Size of
any change be necessary) your
the gar-
follow yonr special
Changing
by reading Our
your seams following the
When
easily
and properly
HOW TO aw
There
APPLY THE RULE.
lour distinct points or places
wlicrc the end ot
tin-
and meusuix-nients
niiide t'roni.
I'nlc
niiisl
iÂťe
[)laced
ent
Length of waist vai-y on differpersons of the same chest measure.
And
the only
waist
lini'.
correct
THE FIRST
way
made
the measure can be
with the tape-line.
is
Ts the to[) of the sidi' hiise line,
where we
THK SPECIAL DIRECTIONS
coninience measuring- to get
length of
Accomi)anying- Diagram 'No. 1, fii'st pattern in the book, fnlly explain this and tell
flie
garments and the points to strike (he aci'oss from to get the width on. T[IE
where we lay our
lines
you
how
to
make
the waist line
correct.
SECOND
on the cross lines to get the points for width of gai-nK'nts, which stai't from the side base line wheivver they occur on the diagram we are laying off. Is
i)laiiily
WHEN
rule
IT IS correctf<:d
Place the end of the rule upon the corrected waist line and measure again from that point, in the
same way that you have been
instructed to measure from the base lines
THIRD
TIIK In
V
FROM THE
making measurements with our
which
is
five s[)aces in
given
points
all
IS
laying
By
off.
straight
down
rule,
we measure diagram we are
length,
on the first
an<l the
getting the points
we
the side base line until
reach the end of the
Then at the end we mark a V diagram. Then we
I'ule.
of the rule or the 5th space
upon the
shovyn
as
move
down
the rule
the end of the
I'ule
its full
length, placing
at the point of the
V
we have just marked and commence measuring from that point again, just the same as if we were measui'ing' from the startingpoint. The 5V occurs on all lines where the rule is not long enough to reach the number
we
on the diagram, and by sim])ly marking- the at the end and moving the rule down if on base line or out if On cross lines, we can get any number of spaces we reipiire
V
The V always occurs on the diagram just as many time's as it is necessary to move i-ule
Wherever you
V
see
tlu-
DVon
the diagram
and move your rule down its full length and measure again from that point just the same as if the rule had not been moved from the niai-k
to])
on side base
the
at the
end of
I'ule
the rule
down
its
full
length, placing the
end of the rule on the point of the V. Now mark points again same as you did above. Next point is 2A, which is waistline, mark it and then follow the directions on changing waist line (if any change is necessary). And then place the end of the rule at the point whei-e the corrected
waist line
is
marked
(as explained in the
special directions with first diagram),
When
2B.
marked on the aci-oss whei-ever
the points are
all
l)ase line,
strike
the lines
they occni- on the diagram all
points
upon the cross lines. When that is done take your scroll and apply it, connectingthe points, as directed in the directions for Api)lying- the Scroll.
And
then mark off
your seams and your diagram
Be the
and
commence measuring your points again. Next point is IF, next is 2, and next or
IN LAYINc;
is
rule at
V
starting- [)oint.
THE FOURTH Place we commence measurin<>- from
first
line
and then take your rule and get
to get all the points required.
1,
and get the followng points for length. First point is B, then IB, then 2, then 2F, then oB, then 4E. Then we come to the 5V. Now just mark at the end of rule and then move the
last point is
lecpiire.
the
5VTO EXPLAIN THIS FULLY. On the backs of Diagram No. pattern in the book, we place the
com[)leted.
OFF THE SEAMS
careful and follow directions for seams
closely.
(3)
is
HOW TO The
The
and a
scroll bus a liirge
hirye end
used
APPLY THE SCROLL. simply
end.
sjiiall
the eiirves
time.
on Ladies' and Gentlemen's garments, and
wrist
tlie
is
in iiuikiiig-
making the eurves on
small end for
We have two hands
upon the
have hands upon om- diagrams to
Ave also
simplify
its
gram
points, U't the
point
in
same
the
If the
curve
h;ind will be placed
tlie
be drawn,
line to
hiying the scroll on to connect
in
points and
ai'c
diasci'oll
upon the outside of the
place
the
hand ujjon the
dii'cction.
an inward ciu've
and
make
it U()oii
the
will
three
the
yon must
the
also have
the hands
on the diagi'am and the hand on the
same
dii'ection.
same
Wiien
an outward
cui've, the
<li"ift,
and
the
to foi'm
in
line
the points
inside of
it
the
and the hands on the
scroll
the
in
direction.
SPECIAL CURVKS, such
Front
Darts,
Arms Eye
neck Curve,
Front
as
Cui've,
hem
Side
(Jui've,
under arm on front and Side back curve are
marked on the [)licd
scroll so that
with case.
out any
occur with-
Wliert' lines
hands (except
it
can be ap-
it
the
l)e
special
curves just explained) they are sti'aight lines
sci(dl
there
If
upon the
star
points.
ciu've
one
at
and on the <iiagram nmst be pointing
the outside of the ]ioints you th;it
is
a
occur inside of the
down
laying
you must also
line
connecting, being cai'cful
point in the
connect
to be ct)nnectt'd
use.
Whatever way the hand upon
is
And
scroll.
hand has
the
If
curve to be made
hand
Children's garments.
hand connect two points
a:
and must
is
l)e
connected with the
scpiare.
THE SEAMS. Seams
marked with the with the
rule
lint each
ta])e line,
amount
for
seams wherever seams
jjrinted
All seams that are
when you
upon
it
ai'e
lirst
is
allowed
what seam.
letter
to
are
all
places.
low diivctions
the <lraft,
telling
;ire all
you just
marked
off con-
(if
any change
the
same
only
be
(4)
seam the same width
When
drafts
necessary).
as in length
correctly
are
(Âťf
by
waist
Forms in
size
of Avaist and
nuide
all
then fol-
off,
changing- size
is
being
the outline,
same chest measure vary
waist
line.
foi'
the same
in
and seams marked
the rule are
measure to for width of
When all seams
apart at
com[)lete<l
excepting the shoulder seams, which
did
careful to keep the
(o be t;iken.
making
marked on the diagram
mannei' that you
diagram has
that
made with
;uv
nect the points with the tools
aiv
and some are marked
the
laid off
some
arc of diCferent widths,
the
of
of
can tape-
DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING. IX CKNTKi; r.ACK SKAM. waist
Bc'^iii at
and haste
liiu'
IN SIIOII.DER SE.VMS.
Begin
ii[).
on the
HASTIXU SIDE HACK SEAMS.
IX
Hold coiMf
thr hacks to you,
out
ends.
two and
I'ldni tile
Ihr scaiiis
ou
clippiui^-
tlie
sdvteh the side hack
lU'CTssai'T
tVoiM ahout
dowu
without
I'veii
It'
iiiakiii^-
that
our-hait' to tlu'ee iiiciics
(op to
make
tiieui
coiue out
will
Haste l)in
tile
BASTING SIDE SEAMS.
right
the
seam
left side
side seaiu
beginning- at waist line,
same as the at top
left side
first,
up
to
making
it
.
the
neck
the hack
right shoidder seam, stretching
l*in (lie
the
seam
I'roiit
as for left shoulder,
and then
neck hasting to shouliler point.
begin
at
Aftei'
having done your trinnned
hi'
for
down
fitting, all
to
seams
what
just
the whaleb(»nes.
is
seams
All
ii'ou
be-
whale bones.
fore putting in
(op,
come out IN BASTING SLEEVES.
seam, and then l)egin
and haste down
come out even with
should he pressed open with a hot
and then
to
piece.
needed IN
and haste
shoulder, stretching the front so
left
it
should
even.
at shouldei' p(»int
Begin
to waist line, hold-
at the top
and baste down
to waist.
ing the back towards yon.
PUTTING THE SLEEVES JN.
IN IX SIDE UNDEIl A1!M
SEAMS.
Place the back seam at about one-half
Hold
the side backs towai'ds yon, l)ast-
inch Ijelow the side from seam in arm's eye.
ing same as for side back seams.
Baste over the IN
UNDER ARM DARTS AND FKONT DARTS. at
waist line and baste up, after
having the darts hasted
through the
togetlier, cut
the left sleeve, being careful that
you get both sleeves
open
centei'.
of sleeve, holding the
sleeve towai'ds you, sew in the right sleeve first, i)in
Begin
to[)
in
exactly alike.
There should he a basting thread run around the to
make
it
to|)
full
of (he nppei- sleeve jioitiou
over the shoulder.
IN HEM.
Run
a basting thread on
hem
line
leave ojjen to do fitting, pinning to
fit
and
BEFORE FITTING.
the
Clip
I'oi'm.
above IN
Begin
ALE
SEA:\IS I'.KI.OW
at waist
WAIST.
cli])s.
and baste down.
close.
(5)
all
seams at waist and for an inch
and below waist, making several
Be
careful
not to clip them too
LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE. FOR MEDIUM FIGURES.
3A
3B-2F -
2 B-2-IF
2
TO LAY OFF BACKS.
Make
base lines
Then suppose we
first.
are cutting for a lady
waist
whose measures are
waist line or point
Now
23.
Length of "Wnist
Elbow 191/2. Length of Arm
Add
one inch to
last
as
15h'-2.
shorten point
you did the waist
Now
rected waist line
29.
two measures amount
measure 2OV2 and the length of arm 30
from base
33 whicli corresponds
rule
with chest measure and then follow direcfor
tions
points ive
applying the rule, marking
down
which
is
base line to point
the letter
Now take
waist line.
and measure from the
B down
first
15i/.i
the length of waist
2A
all
inclus-
tape line
we want, and mark
it,
one-half as
line, or ^/^ of
Now
line points
strike lines across
wherever they occur
them scroll
all
and
connect
points
according to
hands on draft following special directions on (Applying the Scroll).
Then
lay
off
all
marked on diagram drawn and use
seams as
scroll in tlie
same maimer
laying them
it
is
necessary to
make
Kead
carefully directions for
Next
the (6)
is
off.
they are
inside of the lines just
the waist line point marked with the tape find
points on
Then take
width of garment.
for
to coiniect your points for the
we
an inch.
(accoi'ding to direc-tions
and then by measuring the difference between point 2A (original waist line), and
line,
much
rule at the cor-
on the diagram, and then get
point marked or
inches on base line
4E
on points to measni'e from), and mark the points for skirt.
Take
which we marked
place the end of
required for seams, which makes the elbow
inches.
2A
with rule.
Chest 33.
Waist
of an inch shorter than original
V.i
seam
lines.
seams before
LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.
FOR MKDIUM FIGURES.
FRONT.
IE- lA
2 A- IF
TO LAY OFF
Proceed off
mark
made
shorten
same
as
the same manner as for laying-
When
hacks.
reacluid,
are
in
Avaist
And
it.
line point
we
waist on Front did
not measure
you did on
l)acks.
it.
we must
Then
shoiten
line
lilies
points
place 3'onr
Then
and get
all
rule
or
'â&#x20AC;˘s
of
upon the
|
|
at to|) of
tions for
I
dart.
all
points
l)y
following the direc-
Applying the
Scroll, excepting the
Do
large or under
not draw those
test size of waist.
(7)
strike the cross
take the scroll and connect
points that form the
'''4
2K and
Then
points for width on them.
shown on diagram
tape-line as
point
Then
mneh
one-half as
points for length.
on backs,
Simply measure up
B
and
corrected waist line and finish getting your
of an inch,
line
down with
of an inch fiom waist
mark
â&#x20AC;˘V4
A
an inch.
is
on hacks, to make front
come even again with waist
You do
darts
as out waist lines
to he placed together,
tlu'
2E
FRONT.
lines
until
arm
we
TO TEST
SIZE
OF WAIST.
and E on waist line, which form the large or under arm dart, one-fourth of
4D
There are two fronts and two each of the back pieces, so we have one-half of the
I)oints
pattern
an inch apart.
Having hnt one-half
of the pattern, to
Move
any correction
one-half
correct our size of waist (if
be necessary) we take one-half of the actual waist measure which with the waist measure (23) we are drafting- to would be ll"/o inches.
the
By
measuring the goods across
on waist line, leaving out all seams, hems and darts, we find it measures pattern
which is too large, as we only want the measni-e to be llV> inches or onell'V4 inches,
fourth of an inch smaller.
make it move
I*^ow, to
point
E
one-eightli of an inch or
amount of
change and point 4D one-eighth of an inch, which makes one-fourth of an inch. By moving apart the two points one-half the amount of change required on each side, it keeps the garment in pi'opoition, wherein if it were all changed on one side it would throw the garment all out of shape. Now draw your lines for inider arm dart and j^onr diagram is
one-fourth of an inch smaller we simply
the
tlie
completed. ^N'ext is
UPPER SLEEVE. 3F
TO LAY OFF UPPER SLEEVE. Lay front,
off sleeve
marking
tom of base
same plan
all
line.
as on
backs and
down to the botThen to get proper
points
sleeve measure, on back from seam line at top of neck at center of back to seam line point at shoulder point at
length of
arm's eye. inches.
We
find the
measure to be
ISTow place the 7'
j
base line or top of sleeve and at 2OV2 inches down on base
at
7i/4
the top of
make
a point
line, Avhich is
elbow measure, and then at oO, which is length of arm measure. Point E beingelbow point, we next measure the difference between elbow point just marked and oi-iginal elbow point E and find it to be one-
eighth of an inch.
The
original
elbow
point would be one-eighth of an inch too long, consequently we shorten the elbow point one-eighth of an point is shortened we
point
ID
come
to length of
When
incli.
nnist
the same amount.
elbow
also shorten
Then when we
arm by measuring the between point 30, mai-ked with and ])oiut 4F, which is length of
difference
tape line arm point marked with rule, we find the difference to be one-half of an inch. So we must shorten the liottom point onehalf an inch. Whenever bottom ]ioint is shortened we nnist also shoi-ten point 3G the same amount.
(8)
N"ext
is
UNDER SLEEVE. 2G
TO LAY OFF UNDER SLEKVE."
Proecc*! sleeve.
base
same
AVlicn
line,
as
all
in
off Tipper
layiiitj;-
jxiints are
then shorten
marked down
As
eli)o\v
:
also
l)i'
same as waist
linos, point, r)V
shorU'ni'd-one-eig'hth of an
andBG,
same ason
must
also
shortened
points nuistcome
same
as they were on n[)i)er sleeve.
E, which
is
I
Ite
must
iiicdi,
toni points.'JB
jioint
elboAV point, one-eighth of an inch
upper sleeve.
tog-etlici'
hot-
leno-thof arm |)oints.
one-half an inch
3A-2G
TO LAY OFF COLLAR. Lay
off collar in the
length with tape line to
fit
same manner yon the neck.
(!')
di<l
hacks and fronts, making-
i(
I
he propei-
THE CHANGES. Two
ladies of the
same chest
measiu'ciiu'iit
may vary
in size
of waist, L. of waist, L.
of arm, etc.
We
will
suppose, for instance, the measures had heen
Chest ;ÂŤ. Waist 24V2. L. of Waist
Elbow L. of
By
:
"
17.
20.
Arm
30.
adding- the one inch for seams to last
two measures
it
makes them
21 elbow
and
31 L. of arm.
we would have to lengthen waist line five-eighths of an inch in place of Which is done in the same manner as to shorten it, only yon move your waist line j)oint down in ]ilace of up. If waist line is lengthened, you must also lengthen point IE one-half as much as you do waist line. When you come to front, yon must also lengthen the waist line the same amount as you do on backs and the top of darts one-half as much as you do waist line and always In that case
shortening
in
it.
the same direction.
On measure
size of w;tist,
if tiie
measure had
i)een 2iK'->,
we want
the one-half of pattern to
measure 11-V4 inches. and K, one-half inch closer together, moving each point in one-fourth of an inch, which would throw in one-half inch more goods at waist line, IIV4 original measure and one-half would be 12V4. The measure we want, twice 12v 4 would be 21:>/l', the waist measure we ai"e drafting to. If ell)ow measure had been 21 and the length of arm 31, it would have been necessary to lengthen elltow point three-eighths of an inch, and L. of arm one-half an inch. As original rule points would not have been long enough. Always remember in shortening or lengthening elbow jioint E, you nuist shorten or lengthen (as the case maybe) point ID the same amount and where point 4F bottom of sleeve is lengthened or shoi-tened you must always lengthen or shorten |)oint 3G the same amount. When you come to under sleeve i)ortion. lengthen or shorten, as the case may require, ell)ow point E and the r>V, and also ])oints3CT and 31) the same amount that you do the same points on uppei- sleeve, and in tiie same direction. Under each garment will be given the necessary measures for laying it off, all points that may require changes and all directions necessary. Read them carefully before attempting to cut the garment. The garments do not generally need changing but in case they do, to fit them to tape measurement, we give all points on all garments that may have to be changed. 121/4 or one-half inch longer, as one-half of the pattern did
To make the change move the two
points
4D
;
DRAFTS
1
AND
2
Are so designed that any one wishing to use a plain back and French bias front can Or if one wishes to reverse and use back and side, back of No. 1 and front of No. 2. Any sleeve desired use the backs of No. 2 and plain front of 'No. 1 they can do so.
may be
cut with any draft.
THE SHADING OR FINK CROSS LINES Show
just
what amount of the diagram
is
made up
represents the cloth. (10)
into the
garment, or
in
other words,
LADIES' BASQUE,
FRENCH
BIAS.
BACKS.
28-2"^
Taki'
chust,
correspondiiiij;-
waist.
If
as the case
hne and
lAFOB
7?\*E-4'^
waist,
lciii;lh
with eliest measure.
elbow,
waist,
oi'
Measure
and
dowu from
any chaug-e be necessary, 2 A being waist
may
in llie
re(iaire.
same
Points 4:E and
4A
U'lig-th
of
letter
B
line [)oiut,
ai'iii.
to
i>-et
Use
rule
lenglli
lengthen or shorten
of it,
must be changed one-half as nuieh us waist
diieetioii.
UNDER ARM GORE.
IF ?D
Undeisht)rtened.
arm gore Point
3G
is
laid
being
off
by same
waist line
rule.
If
point, mns(
amount. (11)
waist on backs
be lengthened
or
is
lengthened or
shortened same
LADIES'
BASQUE FRENCH
BIAS.
FRONT.
;c 2 B
B A 2C
3G
WAiai
3B
U.se f-aiiit: rule. If vvai.sl, lini>s liavo beeu leiinthi'iRMl or .sIkii'Iiik'iI, li'i]j;Uifii or slioilcu poiiil L'C, wliicli is wai.st line, .same amoiiiit as ou Ijaclis ami under .-irni gore and lop of darts A and li one-lialf as nuieli in the same direction. WLieii seau)s are all laid off test .size of waist, if eliange be necessary, move |ioiiit C on waist line on uutler arm gore, and |ioiut .J on waist line on front iie.Kt to under arm gore oue-lialf tlie amount of cliauge re(|uired, in tlie same manner that change was made ou Diagram No. 1 in under arm dart. If tlie waist needs to be larger the points are moved towards each other. If smaller, they are moved apart.
LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 3n
IF-IC^- F
3Q
3«
c
£.
Use rule corresponding with chest measuri'. Point If bottom poiut be changed change points IC F
'1
— —
/5\
3D-3B'
1G
IB
elbow line. If it be changed change point E same amount. 3G and 3A. same amount and in the same directions. is
(12)
.
LADIES'
MORNING DRESSING WAIST. BACK.
2B
2A-1F Tiikc clR'st
is
c-licst
iisrd.
waist, L. waist, I'lhow and
"2X
oil
back
("lian<4C point 5\' oiK'-liaii' (iu'
waisi
is
orai-iii iiicasiii't's.
\j.
(JliaM^c to
point.
lit
link' con'ospondiiii; witii
tape
line
inuasuicincnl
amount.
FRONT.
A/ยง\
To [loint
lay off front use
2D same amount
get pro[)er size of waist
same
If waist
ruk-.
and top of
change
C
(hirt
A
liiu'
is
[)oints
line
much the same direction. To on under arm dart in or out (as the
waist measiu'i'.
(i;5)
lE-lft
changed on back, change waist
one-half as
and iC
case may. require) to exact size of tape
4A-3E
MORNING DRESSING WAIST.
LADIES'
GATHERED SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE.
Use same
IG must point,
rule,
leiigtlieu or shorten, to
tape measui'enieut
be changed same auiouut as elbow ami
in
and point 1 must be elianged same amount
Gather to
iit
notches between
])oints
same
(lii'ection
as [toint 5,
2E and 2F on under
point
;
if
;
E
is
i)()int
5
elbow point; is
any change
L. of arm is
made.
sleeve.
UNDER SLEEVE 2E
3F
To
lay off
2F
3
under sleeve use same rule
amount
as points
E
amount
as points
-i
and and
IG
;
points
C
and
on upper sleeve, and points o and
5.
(14)
4F must oF must
be changed same be changed same
LADIES' PLAIN BASOUE. BACKS.
2B-2-tF
1A
"/ยง^
3-20-JG
4-A-3E
1A
Waist
Take point line
chest,
A to
waist,
L. of waist, ell)ow
lA, marked
g'et leng'th of waist,
measure.
If waist
waist,
ehang-e ]>oint
is cli;ing-ed,
leni>th of
aiul is
arm, measure down from
waist line point.
4A
Chaiigc to
fit
tnpe
one-luiH' the ninoiuit.
FRONT.
2A-1E
^E-4D-3G-3D-2G
IE V/AIST
To line
lay off fi-ont use
point
same
IE same amount
I'ule.
;ind
on back has been changed, chano-o waist top of darts 4E and 4D one-half as much. If any
necessary in'size of waist,
ehang-e
is
and D,
in or out, as the change
may
If waist
regulate require.
(15)
it
at
under arm dart,
mrn ing points 4E
LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE.
GATHERED SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE.
Use same with
it.
amount.
(If
rule.
Point
4F
change be made) oF
Gather
to
fit
is
is
ell)ow mid point
L. of arm point.
1
is
If
to be elianged
it is
same amount
chnngcd, change
notches on luider sleeve between points
2D
2G same
and 2E.
UNDER SLEEVE. 2E
20
20
8>^
W^ Use same 4:D and
3G
rule.
If points
4F
and
1
are
changed on upper
same amount, and 2E and 2 same amount (16)
as L. of
sleeve,
change points
arm measures 3F and 2G.
LADIES' BASQUE. FOR STOUT FKJUKES.
2B-2-IF
Take chest.
chest, waist, L. waist, elbow, L. of arm.
Measure from point
A
to get
L. of waist, change
Use
G
rule
waist
corresponding with
linc'
point to
fit
tape
measurement and point 4 one-half as much.
UNDER ARM GORE.
ie-ic
Usf same same amount.
rule.
If
waist line
was changed on hacks, change
waist
line
point
2G
FRONT.
2?"
^4D-4C-3F
IC WAIST
Use same Change as
rule
if
waist Hne point
nmch.
ID
waist lines have been changed on backs and under arm gore.
IC same amount and
[)()ints
4D
and IC
at top of darts one-half
may
If size of waist needs changing, let out or take, as the case
require,
point 2Ct on under arm goi-e next to fi'ont and ])oint4E on front next to under arm gore.
Change them same
as
change
is
made
in
under ai'm
dart.
UPPER SLEEVE. 3E
3D
Lay
3E
is
off
by same rule;,5V
L. of arm point.
If
is
elbow.
If
i^
changed, change point
changed, change 2(t same amount. (18)
3F
F
same amount.
UNDER SLEEVE. 2G
2G Use same elijovv
points
-
y^G-4C
2B
rule.
If
5V
and
same amount, and
F
also
l-G
have been changed on upper, change
2G
and 2B same as 8E and
(19;
2G
4G
and 40
on upper sleeve.
LADIES' 5
TEA GOWN.
LADIES'
TEA GOWN.
FRONT.
LADIES'
TEA GOWN.
UPPER SLEEVE.
4E
Use same
3G
rule.
L. of arm measure.
D
is
elbow.
If changed,
If necessary to
change
and
ID same amount.
4E
is
change, change 3Ct same amount.
UNDER SLEEVE, 2E
2G Lay
off
by same
2B rule.
Lengthen
elbow point on upper sleeve, and
or shorten points
4D
2G and 2B same amount
(22)
and
SG same amount
as points
4E and 3G.
as
D
LADIES' SKIRT. FOR MEDIUM FIGURES. SIDE GORE.
FRONT GORE.
lA
lenir^lfn.^PnTi'in'"''-, ,'{ ,"^ """.'-^
T y^hi"v
aver'iBu ronns
'
'*'"-'" "='" '"<•" '•-'""'ged on front gore, ch.anKc *" »"'«'">' ""'1 5V onohalf .as much. "I" fc'""il' a'-out 40 laches wide tor
"'"'l'' ""' """'«'" >^'«™
(23)
Take waisi and length ot skirt. Use rule corrcsi)ondmeasure Take ia^e 1.. "!p"'""= L. oi of sKirt skirt measure In froii front and lT,',l';,il™'*' lengthen or shorten, as the case may reoulrc. Kront core to tape l.ne measurement bottom point lli Is length point "^*' '"""" ' """" "'""""' "'"' •'°"'' *<= on« hal aTmuil ,',',','rf
LADIES' SKIRT. FOR STOUT FIGURES.
FRONT GORE.
SIDE GORE. u.
Use
_.4M ^
.f»
'°
rule con-esponding- with waist measure.
Follow the same rule as
Take L. of skirt measure same way and made exactly the same as on No. 7. No. 7
skirt.
(24)
if
in cutting-
changes are necessary they are
LADIES' SKIRT YOKE.
48
TE
«^
F-C/^\4E
Take waist measure and use
2C -
t
D-
1
/sVJ.
D- 4-3E** 2 C
rule corresponding therewith.
one wishes.
(25)
It
lA
can be cnt as deep as
FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES.
BACK.
Take regulate
chest,
2B
waist, L. of waist, el))ow
and L. of arm, measure down from
A
and
waist ])oint to tape measurement.
2PÂťac wamt
To
lay off front use
amount on
same
rule.
If waist
has been changed on back, change same
front.
Cut waistband, which
is
a straight piece of goods, about two inches wide to exact
waist measure and gather fronts between points
2A
and 3G, to
fit
waistband. (26)
IG
and 3C and backs between points
FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES. COLLAR.
2B
3E-3C
Lay
by same
off collar
rule.
IB
Reg-ulate size of neck by tape line.
UPPER SLEEVE. <VE
Use same
rule.
G
arm measures.
is
Measure down from
tttp
point where the
X
is
for elboAv
and L. of
elbow point. If necessary to change, change IF same amount.
point B, L. of arm, has of sleeve
E
from point
to be
C
changed, change -IB point same amount.
on cross line at point 2 to point
4A
on cross
If
Gathei- around line
at
point
IB.
UNDER SLEEVE. 2E
3e
To
2G
under sleeve use same
/S\
\j.
'20
4.0 If
rule.
4D and 5V same amount, and arm points on upper sleeve.
change of
lay off
.
of
elbow has
ann
(27)
lioints
1A.1
Iieen
',\V]
changed on upper sleeve
and 2(J same amount as L.
MISSES' BASQUE. OPEN^ IN FRONT. BACKS.
2B-2-1F
Take
38- 2Q
chest, waist, L. of waist,
ength of waist, change 2C waist
â&#x20AC;˘
elbow and length of arm.
line point to
fit,
2A
IC
Measure
fi'om
B
to get
and 4E point one-half the amount.
FRONT.
2A
II
Use same rule. If same amount and B top under arm
dai-t,
same
waist has been changed on
back, change
of dart point one-half the amount.
as othei' basques.
(28)
2F
Regulate
waist
line
point
size of waist
at
MISSES' BASQUE. UPPER SLEEVE.
Use same
rule.
L. of arm point.
If
F
is
elbow point.
changed, change
If
4A
changed, change IE same amount.
5V
is
same amount.
UNDER SLEEVE. 3
4A
Use same
3D
rule.
If elbow points
and length of arm points have been changed on
upper sleeve, change them same amount on under sleeve. (29)
MISSES' BASQUE. OPEN
IN BACK.
BACKS.
4G
2A
2 1F-1D
3
WAIST
Take length of
chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow waist.
2A
is
waist line.
20
IE
Measure from
and length of arm.
Change
to
fit.
1
If changed,
B
to test
change 4B one-
half the amount.
FRONT.
3B
Use same rule. same amount. Top under arm dart same
5V
\E
changed on back, change waist
If waist has been
of dart point
20
one-half
as in other basques.
(30)
as
much.
Regulate
line point
size
2A
of waist at
MISSES' BASQUE.
UPPER SLEEVE. 3E
Lay sleeves.
off
4F
is
by same
rule
elbow point,
;
3t
regulate elbow and L. of
3D
L, of arm.
«%-
3F
arm measures same
Change 2F same amount
as
as
on other
3D.
UNDER SLEEVE. 2G
20
Lay elbow point
off
iA
by same
rule.
If
changes have been made on upper sleeve, change
and L. of arm points 2F and
2A
(31)
same amount.
CHILD'S WAIST.
BACK.
G-F
Take
chest,
IE WAIST
waist,
length of waist, change
IE
B
G
L. of waist, elbow and L. of arm. waist line point to
fit
Measure from
B
for
tape measiii'ement.
FRONT.
G-F
2A WAlsn
Use same
rule.
If
waist has been changed, change
amount. (32)
2A
waist line point same
CHILD'S APRON. BACK.
Take cbest icK
down from
L. ol waist
aud
full
poiut C, and full length
urement and point 3E
to full length
kusth
iu
the back, use rule correspoucling with chest.
by measuring down from
measurement.
If
point 3E
(33)
is
Regulate waist by .nea-ur-
Change waist line point 2D to tape changed, change 2F the same amount. point C.
line
meas-
CHILD'S APRON. FRONT.
To lay off front use same i-vile. If waist has been changed on back change waist line point same amount If length points have been changed on back, change and 2C same amount. (34)
2D 3E
CHILD'S APRON UPPER SLEEVE. 3G
4A list' Itiii^tli
of
3C
saiuc rule.
5V
arm point AA
to
is
elbow.
Change
to
fit
tapf measureiiiciit
L. of arm tape measurement.
Change 3C
if
point
necessary and
same amount.
UNDER SLEEVE. 3B
3C Use same and
2E L.
of
rule
arm
2E
/sX
4B
G
and make changes as directed on other sleeves.
4B
is
points.
40 Use same
rule.
Regulate to
fit
(35)
size of
neck by tape
line.
elbow and oC
LADIES' CHEMISE. BACK. rr.
LADIES' CHEMISE. FRONT. â&#x20AC;¢i-t
00
o
C8
o
FRONT.
MOTHER HUBBARD NIGHT DRESS.
LADIES'
SLEEVE.
3A-2C-2A Use same to
fit.
Make
Gather sleeves
riik-.
lengtii
/Q\
whatever yon
4C
1G-1E-1B-G
at points marked gather. If 3'on change point
desire.
the same amount.
-iC
is
YOKE.
-^nfe«^,
Lay
off
3B-3 by same rule.
1
ID Fit to size of neck with tape. (40)
elbow.
Change
HA, change 2C and
2A
LADIES' DRAWERS.
Take waist and length
desired.
Use
rule corresponding with waist measure.
If
used, cut off two and one-half inches from top of pattern. Cut on the outside line for l)acks and then turn away the goods and cut on the inside line for fronts.
yoke
is
YOKE.
4F
3-28
E
Lay
off
A'^E - 3D hy same rule. (41)
1G
MISSES' DRAWERS.
Take
waist and lengtli desired.
exact size of waist and
g-athei-
Follow same rule as
goods into
it.
line for fronts.
(42)
lor
Cut by outside
No.
17.
line for
Make
a
band
backs and inside
GENTS' SACK COAT. BACK
Take foi-
chest, L. of waist, full length in back,
L. of arm, measui-e down to knuckle tape measurement and point
fit
4E
joint.
to full length
elbow and length of arm.
Measure from
A
In measuring
and make IF waist to
measurement.
FRONT.
4G-40-4
Use same If
WAIBT
rule.
length point
4G
front. changes have been made on back, make siimc cluinges on 4 and iJA same amount. has to be changed, cbangv points 41) If
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
(43)
GENTS' SACK COAT. UPPER SLEEVE. 3F
\^2A
5-4C
G
Use same
rule.
/5\
3
- 2A
IB
-
e
Regulate length same as on other sleeves.
UNDER SLEEVE.
4D-4 Use same
O
i-ule.
If
/5\
2E
1E-1C-G
any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same changes on
under sleeve.
3-2F-28 Lay
off
by same
rule.
Fit to neck (44)
by tape measure.
GENTS' VEST. BACK.
Iir
Take
-.1A
chest and length of waist
2E - 2-1D
Use
ID
WAIST
sanu- rulo.
CÂť2D
;
regulate length of waist with tape.
G - 8/5\ 4.E.4A
IC-IA
WAIST
If waist lias
been
changed on back change waist on front same
amount. (45)
GENTS' PANTS. â&#x20AC;¢
GENTS' PANTS. FRONT.
GENTS' DRESSING GOWN. â&#x20AC;¢^.2
UNDER SLEEVE.
Use same
rale.
Make
changes according to upper sleeve.
o
s
::
c
4J
FRONT.
GENTS'
AND
BOYS' DRAWERS.
(50)
WAIST BAND.
1B-1-F -
B
TO LAY OFF DRAWERS. Take
hip measure and in
Take length measure on point
B down
in
seam from Fork
to
rule corresponding with hip measure.
Ankle.
To
test length
change bottom point 2C to tape measurement and knee
half the amount.
If waist is to
be made longer
smaller take up goods in Dart half the waist band as
Use
seam measure.
is
required at point
2D
let
out point
amount on each
to
fit
the tape
^51)
side.
E
measure from
line at
on cross
line
F
point
IC.
If
Shorten or lengthen the
measuiement for
waist.
GENTS' NIGHT SHIRT. BACK.
H-]
FRONT.
SLEEVE.
Lay
off Ijy
same
rule.
Add
one inch to L. of arm measure (which
is
taken wrist joint), for
making up
;
E.
is
elbow point.
NECK BAND.
3G«3F»3B
Lay
off
1C
by same
rule.
Xt-ek
band should be 2 inches longer than measure to allow for making up. (53)
GENTS' CO
AND
BOYS'
SACK SHIRT.
GENTS'
AND
BOYS'
SACK SHIRTS.
FRONT.
Lay
off
by same
rule.
BOSOM.
Lay
off
by same
(55)
rule.
GENTS'
AND
BOYS'
YOKE
SHIRT.
A ^c
3B - 20
BACK.
Q-C/5\4D Take
3E
IF
chest, L. waist, L. of ai-m, neck and
sponding- with chest measure.
Gather the goods to
fit
It is
laid
off
just
the yoke.
FRONT.'
i'lill
the
k'liotli
same
in
B
hack; use rale corre-
wa}- as
Nos. 24 and
25.
GENTS'
AND
BOYS'
YOKE
SHIRT.
SLEEVE.
3B-3A
Use same
rule.
F-D-*\
2F
Use same
rule.
YOKE. COLLAR. C -«* aA«3
IE -
Use same
3F'3e
1
2D
Use same
rule.
(57)
IC-G rule.
BOYS'
SACK COAT.
2A
I^o. full
27 Boys' Sack Coat
length
in
for length of full
is
laid off
by the following measures
:
Chest, L. of waist,
back, elbow and length of arms to knuckle joint; measure waist and full length.
length 4 to
fit
Shorten
or
down from B
lengthen IGr waist point to
fit,
and
tape measurement.
FRONT.
lF-10
Lay
off b}^
same
rule.
2 WAIST
C/^\VF.^C'4.3F.3B
Make changes same
inch on left front. (58)
as on back,
IC'IB-lA
if
any.
Cut
off one-half
BOYS' SACK COAT. UPPER SLEEVE. 4
^O'^SQ
Lay
2F-1G-1B-D
C/Q\ off
by same
rule, i-egulate leno-th
same
as other sleeves.
UNDER SLEEVE. 3C 3A
2C -
4A-3J>
Lay
off
by same
If
rule.
.ca
ID/IC-G
any changes are made on upper
sleeve,
changes on under sleeve.
*
Lay
off
by same
-3C
2B
1
rule, test to tape line
(59)
measurement for
size.
make same
BOYS' VEST. BACK.
WAiax
Take
chest, L. of waist and full length; use rule corresponding with
regulate length of waist and full length
same
as
chest,
on Gents' Vest.
FRONT.
2a-1G-1B
B-3
F-D /5\4-D
3C
1(
V/AlST
Lay inch on
off
by same
rule, follow
same
directions as for Gents' Vest.
left front.
(60)
Cut
off half
BOYS' WAIST.
1E.1D
WAIST
To
lay off boys' waist, take chest, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm.
waist length from point B.
same change on
If
ID
waist be changed, change
IE same amount.
Locate
Make
front.
FRONT.
2E-2C WAIST
Lay
off
by same
sfoods into waist band. ^
rule.
Waist band
is
a straight piece of goods.
(61)
Gather the
UPPER SLEEVE.
2FLay
off
Lay
A
2A
by same
off
rule.
by same
4c
IG
-
1
Regulate length same as on other sleeves.
rule, regulating
(62)
according to upper sleeve.
BOYS' PANTS.
BACK.
1E-1C
To
1
lay off pants, take hip, waist, L. of
corresponding with hip measure and
same
as in gents' pants.
3A
point
knee and
is
knee
line
and IE
(if
F-D-C
length measm-e.
full
make same changes
E
Use
rule
any changes are necessary)
is full
length point.
FRONT.
^~1^ Lay front.
off
4-3E-3A
by same
To make
rule.
If
any changes be made on back make same changes on
waist larger let out point
F
smaller change in dart on back. (63)
on top one-half the amount
;
if
to
make
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS
014 061 876 7
3E*3B'3
Lay
off
by same
rule.
Waist band
is
a straight piece of goods about IV2 inches wide.
(64)
r-
I
V
TT 520 .B3Q Copy 1
^
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 061 876 7
place our system of Fitting
xier
befcl
rare
nents for ^ood workers.
Those who
are out of
employment or
otlicis
wishing
to
change
I
their business will find our
work a very
pleasant, easy
and profitable
business.
WRITE FOR TERMS. Lc-
/2 inc. js wide.
OFFICE, 1220 OLIYE STREET, ST. LOUIS, MO.
\
TT 520 .B38 ^
Copy
1
/
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
i'lllll
1
il
014 061 876 7
Hollinger Corp.
pH8.5