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CPFAFFD
73 INSTRUCTIONS
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FOREWORD
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Your dream has come true. You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 73, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home.
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This Instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you. Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing. Follow these simple instructions and familia rize yourself with the exclusive features of your machine. You will find sewing exciting on your easyto-operate Pfaff 73. If you have any sewing problems, please contac t your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time. G. M. PFAFF AG Karlsruhe-Durlach Branch
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11 12 17 13
DR62OA I Face cover 2 Take-up lever 3 Thread retainer 4 Spool pins 5 Stitch width dial (A) 6 Needle position lever 7 BobbIn winder 8 Balance wheel
9 Stop motion knob 10 Motor disengaging mechanism 11 Bobbin winder thread retainer 12 Reverse teed control 13 Stitch length control 14 Free arm 15 Free arm top cover 16 Free arm cap (enclosing transverse rotary hook)
2
17 10 19 20 21 22 23
Sewing foot Sewing toot thumb screw Light switch Needle thread tension Presser bar lifter Needle set screw Needle plate
DR 050 A
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Fundamentals of Machine Operation • Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you (counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow). Make sure the stop motion knob is tightened before you begin sewing. •
Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the sew ing foot.
—-H’
• Place both threads back under the sewing foot before you put fabric into the machine. • The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically. All you have to do is guide the work. • Always bring the take-up lever to its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye. Also, it is easier to remove the work with the take-up lever up.
3
DR 051
How to Operate Your Sewing Machine Engaging the Sewing Mechani sm .4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise (as indicated by black arrow). Disengaging the Sewing Mechani sm Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clock wise (toward you). The sewing mechanism is disengaged for bobbin winding.
The Workplate The workplate is used to enlar ge the working area for ordin ary sewing. Before you attach the workplate , raise the presser bar lifter and turn the balance wheel until the take-up lever is at its lowest position (see arrow at right). .4 Hold workplate level and push it between free arm and sewing foot. Tilt it slightly so that its lugs enter the holes in the mach ine base (see arrows in right illustration).
.4 Swing down the support and press it firmly against the base plate (see ill, at bottom).
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OR 510
Electrical Informatio n Push plug I into receptacle 2 and plu g 3 at other end of wall outlet. cord into the Cord 4 leads to the foot control which serves to regulate the machine speed.
OR 558
Motor Disengaging Mechanism Powerdriven machin es feature a lever underneath the balanc serves to swing the e wheel which motor to its operat ive position. To do lever down. After this, flick the you have completed sewing, flick the leve position in order to r to its top return the motor to the inoperative positio n. With the motor swu ng out of engage ment, all machines stands can be driven set up on treadle by foot power.
Foot Contro’ Place the foot control under the table or cabinet within easy foot. Rest the right reach of your foot on the control ped al and press. The harder you press, the faster the machin e will run.
5
R 7132
DR 851
Straight Stitching 4 For straight-stitch sewing set: Dial A 0 Lever B = Center
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This setting is indicated on pages 28—41 as follow: A = 0, B =
Control G regulates the stitch leng th. For detailed instructions plea se refer to page 18. To backtack the end of a seam, simply depress the finge r-tip control.
DR 009 A
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DR 614
Removing the Bobbin Case Raise needle to its highest po!nt and open free arm cap.
Lift latch k with the forefinger of your right hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
DR 613
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Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
R 5867
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As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
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Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot.
0
Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
0
Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot Fall out.
R 5869
2
R 5870
3
R 5868
4
iij Inserting the Bobbin Case Raise take-up lever to its highest point and lift the latch with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Turn bobbin case until slot points up (see arrow). Place bobbin case on center stud s of hook.
4
In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread so that it will not get jammed between bobbin case and hook. Release the latch and press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cause needle breakage.
I
DR 609
I
I
11
Mercerized Cotton
Silk
Needle Size
80 to 100
to 000 twist
or 70
Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks and cottons, sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.
70 to 80
A&B twist
80
Medium Fabrics such as lightweight woolens, madras, muslin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine.
50 to 70
Heavy Fabrics such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas.
40 to 50
c&D
Very Heavy Fabrics such as heavy tickings, canvas, overcoating, sailcloth, upholstery
24 to 40
E twist
Types of Fabrics
Fine Fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orIon, dacron, plastics, etc.
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
The appearance of the finished seam is de pendent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart. The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bob bin thread. However, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread.
8&c twist
twist
Determined by weight of fabric 40 to 50
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread should normally be used. 100
90 to 110
by Thread size 60 to 80 12
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Important Facts about Needles On Pfaff 73 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles are used for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 P are available from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
Changing the Needle Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
DR 080
Loosen needle set screw a half a turn \ and pull old needle out of needle clamp. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank taces toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw a
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4
Upper Threading spool 1 on one of the spool pins spool pins upto the vertical position. Place Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the !he thin the right and thread retainer 2 (see ill, at top,ofp. 15). Seize and lead the thread behind both scrolls of draw the thread into the to s suffice It . you until it snaps into he eyelets left of the thread retainer and pull It toward left eyelet.
the right so that it slips 3 (see ill, at bottom of p. 15) and jerk it far to Pull the thread between any two of tension discs t the casting between agains spring. As you do this, press the thread properly into the slot and under the thread check spool and tension.
hole at its end. Lead the pass the thread from right to left through the Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and needle from front to back. thread down and into slot 5. Then thread the
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01
0, 0,
DR 615
Correct Tension Regulation correct, you Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is (lii). below will have perfect seams as sketched Sketch I
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The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric.
C a u s e: Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric. Sketch Ii C a u s e: Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.
A
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves down and up again. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through the needle hole. Place both threads back under the
II III
sewing foot.
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DR 580
Regulating the Thread Tension The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade at the factory and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case as follows: for looser tension. W\ Turn it left for tighter tension. Turn it right
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4
The thread tension screw can be turned with the thumb tip. Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade the by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the keep to enough strong be should tension The freely. hang bobbin case you bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.
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A The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the upper tension knob, as follows: for looser tension. left Turn f4 for tighter tension. Turn right
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tension is so designed that all grades of The upper can be covered with one loose to tight tension complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The higher the number, the greater the tension. Only in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the tension. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set between 3 and 5. Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two—
needle work. R8029
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—
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DR 008
Stitch Length Regulation
1.
h length and to limit serves to regulate the stitc The stitch length control it in sewing backwards. h length (the higher the control indicate the stitc Numbers 0 to 9 on the set on “0”. the machine is stitch). When the control the ger lon the , ber num setting the control on ‘9” gest stitch is obtained by ceases feeding; the lon th, turn the control ). To regulate the stitch leng (about 6 stitches to the inch slot (see arrow). the of top fully visible at the until the desired number is
Reverse Sewing control down. When the ply press the finger-tip To sew in reverse, sim ing. sew machine resumes forward control is released, the ing or end of a seam and backtacking the beginn This feature is ideal for for darning rips.
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DR 009
DR 042
Changing the Sewing Foot Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positionS and turn sew ing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down.
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Slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely.
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DR 043
19
DR 616
â&#x20AC;˘ Dropping the Machine Feed and button for hoop embroidery, darning This is particularly important sewing. the free arm the drop feed control under To drop the machine feed, turn The fabric will cease feedin9. toward you as far as it will go. to its initial turn the drop feed control back To raise the machine feed, into place. position. You should hear it snap
Darning Foot
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from the darning foot No. 93-102826-91 Remove the sewing foot. Attach and screw, set it is behind the needle rear. Hold spring clip c so that tighten screw b.
20
DR612
OR 083
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I
All-Purpose Sewing Foot (with Clear-View Shoe) 179-00 is attached as instructed on All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100 page 19. it is facilitates all sewing operations where The transparency of its shoe fabric the important to watch the needle penetrate discussed in the second part of this Special application possibilities are Sewing Feet and AttaChments. book under the heading Using
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Care and Maintenance
ent on regular and proper cleaning and Longevity and smooth machine performance are depend oiling. machine with animal or vegetable oils. All Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication.
needle and swing 4 To oil mechanism in free arm, remove sewing foot, raise with a screw arrow) (see screw cover top out free arm cap. Turn out the wise of the length out latter the pull and cover top of end driver. Lift front arm.
order. To replace and secure top cover, proceed in reverse s in the sewing From time to time, lubricate the needle bar frame bearing head.
DR 605 DR 606
22
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;4 There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial, one on the left and the other at the back (see arrows). These openings are the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism.
Do not lubricate the bobbin winder.
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew.
From time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the machine feed with a soft brush Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed lint. Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the sewing hook.
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Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the arm top cover and at the needle-bar end of the machine, remove the dirt and lint which have accumulated on these parts. DR 6fl DR 610
23
L
OR 024
Changing the Light Bulb The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfe ctly. To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. Whe n inserting new light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Pres s bulb in and turn right.
Removing the Face Cover To change the light bulb or oil the parts at the needle-bar end, remove the face cover by pulling it upwards.
Replacing the Face Cover 4 Slip tip d into slot e and push face cover up until it snaps into place.
l3R12
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0R505
I L
Trouble Shooting 1. Machine Skips Stitches Cause:
Remedy:
Needle incorrectly inserted.
be sure that the long Push needle up as far as it will go and of shank away from you. side flat groove faces toward you, and
Wrong needle.
on page 12. Consult needle and thread chart 130 R needles.) em (For ordinary sewing, use Syst
Needle bent. Machine threaded improperly. the thread. Needle too fine or too thick for
Insert new needle.
ucted on pages 14 and 15. Check and correct threading as instr page 12). Use correct needle and thread (see
2. Needle Thread Breaks Cause: e thread The above-mentioned may caus breakage. Thread tension too tight. Poor or knorty thread used. d or needs Hook raceway is jammed with threa oiling. plate slot. Burrs or sharp edges on needle
Remedy: e. See remedies listed under 1. abov Adjust tensions as instructed. Use good quality threads only. Clean and oil hook raceway. emery cloth. Polish needle plate slot with fine
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3. Needle Breaks Cause: hook. Bent needle strikes point of sewing y. Needle too thin or thread too heav Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate. Bobbin case inserted incorrectly. 4. Faulty Stitch Formation Cause: Improper tension.
Remedy: er damage. Replace needle at once to prevent furth . Use correct needle and thread sizes material lightly. Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the into place (see page 11). Push bobbin case until you hear it snap
Remedy: Adjust tensions as instructed. fabric. the correct size for the needle and Use only firstrate thread r when winding the bobbin. (For Dont run thread over finge 9). threading the machine see page —
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard. Bobbin unevenly wound. discs. Pieces of thread between tension 5. Machine Feeds Improperly Cause: Feed dog dropped. stitch length Machine does not feed because “0. on set control is een feed Accumulations of lint packed betw
ve thread. Raise presser bar lifter and remo
Remedy: Raise feed dog (see page 20). ed. Regulate stitch length, as desir ve lint with a stiff brush. Take off needle plate and remo
teeth. 26
6. Machine Works Heavily Cause: Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread. Mechanism clogged by inferior oil. Bobbin winder working while sewing (when a bobbin is not being filled).
Remedy: Clean and oil hook raceway.
Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
never salad oil or glycerine.
Stop bobbin winder.
7. Motor Idles Cause: Motor disengaging lever raised.
Remedy: S
Flick lever down (see page 5).
Thread Jamming
If thread should happen even if the machine should be handled improperly. The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam, hard working of the overcome to sufficient be will instances motor in most to jam in the hook raceway, the power of the mechanism. balance wheel back, put a drop of oil into the hook raceway, jerk the If this action should not free the jammed thread, then rock it back and forth.
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Using Sewing Feet and Attachments (setting see page 6)
847 60
Zipper Insertion Machine Setting: A
0
B
Position of zipper Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. to overlap the fabric the depends on whether or not you want the edge of left edge of to close seam t straigh a Run zipper. Turn fabric to right side. operation. uous contin one in side other the up and end zipper, stitch across Use right edge of foot as a guide.
DR 002
Quilting Machine Settin9: A
=
0
B
=
parallel rows .4 Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used with the quilting gauge sews the gauge guide s Alway fabric. the of surface entire the over g of stitchin finger along the preceding row of stitches. . Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads and covers can be quilted DR 003 A
28
847 56
Flat Felled Seams Machine Setting: A
=
0 or 2 (optional)
B
=
Flat felled seams are used to dura bly join two pieces of fabric. They are made in two operations. Flat felled seams usually are strai ght-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitc hes are used for felling on elasticized fabri cs only. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;4
DR 075
First Seam Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the bottom piece protruding Va inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illus trated, so that the bottom fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure that protrud ing seam allowance is not folded twice.
Second Seam Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, inser t seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that the second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it. The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to perm it zigzag felling.
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DR 049
847 551
Hemming Machine Setting: A = 0 or 2 to 3 (optional) B = The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Fold over edge of fabric about 1/8” to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Place fabric under hemmer foot so that the needle stitches in the material about 1/2” short of its rear edge and close to the folded edge. Sew backwards as far as the rear fabric edge. Take the work out of the machine by pulling it forward. Don’t trim the threads (sketch 1). Draw the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer by pulling both threads back wards. Inserting the fabric into the scroll like this will ensure a neat hem right from the beginning. Feed fabric so that the hem edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer scroll. Don’t crowd fabric into the scroll, but keep scroll well filled with fabric at all times (see ill, at top). DR 073
‘4 Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To do this, press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem (see ill, at bottoni). If you want to hem several edges, hem first edge to within about 1/2” of corner, cut away remaining portion of hem, as shown in sketch 2. Then hem the second edge, as instructed above. Before you hem the last edge, cut away about as illustrated in sketch 3.
DR074
30
1/4”
of the hem sewn first,
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838 954
Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: A
—
2 to 4 (optional)
B
=
h and edges. Use a long, wide zigzag stitc .4 Overcasting prevents frayed the other and c fabri the into h stitc one g sew edge with the needle takin s after fabric is cut and before the over its edge. You may overcast edge pieces are joined.
DR 081
u 838 954
Butt Seaming
Machine Setting: A
=
3 or 4
B
=
‘I
d h do not ravel easily may be butte Two similar pieces of fabric whic ded men be hes. Worn bed sheets may together and joined with zigzag stitc . Place the selvaged edges of the strip r cente worn this way. Cut out s sewing foot so that the abutted edge remaining pieces of sheet under the g stitches. zigza wide , close with them Join are centered under the needle. Hem raw edges of sheet. 31
DR 045
DR 076
Darning without Darning I-loops
You will really appreciate the free arm of your Pfaff 73 when you darn tubular clothing, such as underpants, sleeves, socks or stockings without darning hoops. 4 Trim ragged edges of hole with the fabric grain, then stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed.
Now sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches taken the lengthwise of the arm. This anchors threads in the unworn area around hole. Always hold fabric taut.
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DR 077
,.
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A
DR 057
DR 056
DR 559
Darning 0, B Machine setting: A being in 20. Place fabric into darning hoops, the damaged area Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on page Pf off dealer. the center of the hoops. Hoops may be obtained from your ches. Make sure the stitches are ta section. This job can be done with Triangular Tears ken right into the good material. out foot, too. Triangular tears are best darned by Long Rips placing the torn section between Small Holes may be darned with the normal sew hoops and making close stitches medium-size holes and small Darn work ing foot and without hoops. Set needle Move lengthwise. and across by trimming ragged edges with the hands. plate in its normal, or sewing posi both with under the needle fabric grain. First stitch back and forth tion and use forward-reverse feed the to side one from across the hole Thin Spots control. other with the machine running at Remember that â&#x20AC;&#x153;a stitch in time sa at fabric the high speed. Then turn ves nineâ&#x20AC;? and reinforce spots that right angles and sew back and forth have worn thin with short stitches over preceding work with short stit worn across made lengthwise and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;
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DR 055
838 954
R 7157
Inserting Patches
U
Machine Setting: A
=
8
4
=
following method may be used Large holes can be patched quickly. The grain will match the rest of the for jersey fabrics. Cut patch so that the area. fabric. Place the patch over the damaged m length. .4 Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of mediu
ers twice. Turn over and trim close For additional strength stitch over corn to seams.
838 954
Attaching Lace Machine Setting: A
=
2
B
operation. Fold the edge of the You can attach lace edging in one simple following the texture, and pre side, fabric about /â&#x20AC;&#x153; over to the wrong of the ght edge of the lace on the fold ferably iron it down. Place the strai into stitch one g takin hes, stitc w zigzag fabric and sew it down with narro cloth on ssive exce off Cut only. lace lace and fabric and the other into to the seam. 4 the wrong side of the material close DR 044
34
DR 033 838 954
Applique Work
Machine Setting: A
1â&#x20AC;&#x2122;/2
to 2
Applique is very effectiv e on buster suits, pinafores, bibs, froc ks, covers, wall hangings, or wherev er a gay note is desired. B Fill out small, but essentia l sections of design with granite stitches .
Applique is easy and modern. Trace design on wrong side of fab ric and baste a piece of contrasting material to right side. Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch and the motif will appear on the right side. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Trim excess material close to the seam and sew over edges of applique with a med iumwide satin stitch. If you want to give the design a plastic effect, use buttonhole foot No. 847 616, flick lever B to the left and satin-stitch over a filler thread (see also page 36). R7167
35
C
R7220
V
DR 082
.4 Sewing Buttonholes gauge to 616 and set slide on buttonhole Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 be when th leng buttonhole is the right buttonhole length desired. The w). belo arrow (see ator of slide indic ginning of first seam reaches red end cks at on the opposite page, the barta When you follow the procedure nhole seam. butto a as wide as e twic be each end of your buttonhole will B 11/2 (2) (first notch) Machine Setting: A = 0. ost Alm ): seam e Stitch Length (for buttonhol d No. 50. Use only embroidery and darning threa
=
in the guide inent buttonholes, pull a filler cord .4 If you prefer more prom material. scrap of piece h length, sew on a groove. To get the correct stitc sable to advi is it cs, fabri en wov loosely In making buttonholes in soft or nholes butto n r the material. To strengthe place a piece of tissue paper unde rial mate n cotto en wov piece of firmly t in tricot and knit fabrics, inser a between the fabric layers.
5IOO7
DR 035
the aid of the all-purpose Buttonholes may be made with in the left groove of the cord filler sewing foot. Place the clear-view shoe.
36
:Y:.1
D
4
Change dial A to IV,.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (2). Trim filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches from end of first row.
5
Turn dial A to second notch position (or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;4). Make second tack, as instructed above.
Cl)
6
0 C 0
Turn dial A to Oâ&#x20AC;? and make 3 or 4 fasteni ng stitches.
7
Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartacks.
C
a
0
a
Instructions for Buttonholing I
Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginn ing of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2
Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Pull filler cord around the needle to the left and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching. Lower foot and take one stitch to the left.
3
Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or stops at 4). Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly closing together button hole end to reduce length of bar.
37
-
0R583
Button Sewing
your Pfaff. The needle on buttons or rings with Don’t be afraid to sew either, The latter may ads will not get loose won’t break and the thre chain stitch. It won’t a ade clothing sewn with y-m read with only pen hap on a single button, but machine out for sewing be worthwile to take the of buttons on pillow feature when sewing lines you will appreciate this g rings on curtains enin or dresses, or when fast ts shir on ers, cov bed and dy. Attach all-purpose e will come in very han etc. There your machin trol on 0. 00. Set stitch length con sewing foot No. 93-1 00 179special button sewing n on with the aid of a Hooks and eyes are sew dealer. be obtained from your Pfaff foot, No, 847 608, which can
Machine Setting: A
=
0
‘
B
=
•, feed dog dropped.
[:
,
stitch through hole and will enter left hole. Let needle dle nee that so t of its align and sewing foot 3, until needle on the righ Place button under button counter-clockwise, usually to A dial fasten Turn to dle. ry nee essa se nec hes. Rai ag stitches as you deem make one or two tying stitc hine and sew as many zigz mac rt Sta . hole right r throw is centered ove three tying stitches. A to 0 and make two or button securely. Return dial the second pair ve process, stitching through ion button and repeat the abo osit rep s, ton but le r-ho When sewing on fou of holes.
38
DR 036
Monogram Embroidery MachineSetting: A
=
3to4
B
=
Feed dog dropped. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered. Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely spaced.
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;
93-50179
535 954
Sewing Monograms Machine Setting: A
2â&#x20AC;&#x2122;/2
to 3
B
=
4 The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle plate so that feed dog feeds the material. Set machine for satin stitch and sew outlines of monogram, making sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters.
DR 031
39
DR 001
538954
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching Machine Setting: A
0
B
+
Stitch Length: 2 to 4
130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on Insert twin hemstitching needle, System further than for ordinary little a screw set le page 13. Turn out need needles. thread tension are the same as The thread size, threading procedure and 42). for cording work (see page ses, dresses, handkerchiefs, doilies Beautiful hemstitching effects on blou System 130 twin needle. The and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ed the hemstitching will be. ounc pron more the , yarn c harder the fabri etc. are best suited to hem, gette geor For this reason, batiste, organdy, mmended. stitching, while woolly fabrics are not reco Procedure seamline on fabric. Sew first row. Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace hes along traced line. At the end of Guide fabric so that wing needle stitc sew second row. Guide fabric in and turn a half the seam, turn fabric the needle holes it has made and s such a way that wing needle penetrate ly. enlarged previous at least two operations. If desired, Imitation hemstitching thus requires tal seams may be stitched parallel to men additional straight or curved orna ts may be obtained by using vari the first one. Exciting decorative effec ds. threa ing colored embroidery and darn 4 Zigzag Hemstitching Machine Setting: A = Upto 1/2
B
4
Procedure d needle should penetrate the trace Same as above, except that the wing . line only when it is on the left of its throw 40
Cording Machine Setting: A = 0 B To cord on your Pfaff 73, use a cording foot and a twin needle. Twin needles are available for needle distances of (3/4), 1.2 1.6 (‘/e”), 1.8, 2.0 millimeters. -
(/64”), 2.5 (/32”), 3.0, and 4.0 (/32”) Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows: Pin tucks are made with cord ing foot No. 847 680 (7 grooves, 3/4 wide each) and a 1.2-mm twin needle. For narrow cording use cord ing foot No. 847 675 (5 groo ves, 1 /u.” wide each; see ill.) and a 1.6-mm twin needle. Wider cording is made with cGrding foot No. 847 671 (3 grooves, I64” wide each) and of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters. a twin needle with a needle dista nce
Cording foot and twin need les, System 130 R, are supplied on special request and at extra cost.
Changing the Needle and the Sewing Foo t Bring take-up lever to high est point, loosen needle set screw a, and pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces towa rd the back. Tighten need le set screw a securely.
41
Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b securely. it is best to turn out screw b completely if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached. Thread Size Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle and on the bobbin. Set the machine for a medium stitch length (about 4). Upper Threading Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins. Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer openings 2, as Illustrated on page 15. Lead one thread between the rear and center tension discs, and the other between the center and front tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise take-up lever 4 to its highest position and pass both threads through the hole at its end. Pull threads into slot 5 and thread each needle from front to back. The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 16. To do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.
Thread Tension Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrease the needle thread tension depending on the type of fabric used. If the tension has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a faint zigzag line on the other side. Filled Cording If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your cording more prominent, Pfaff recommends that you insert a filler cord, Its thickness depends on the cording size you want. Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord through hole g from below (see ill, on page 41). Lay the end of the filler cord back under the cording foot (together with the needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler cord forward under the bed slide and place the ball in your lap.
DR 521
42
0R058
Spacing between Tucks To ensure uniform spa cing between parallel tuck s, place the preceding seam into of the groove s of the foot and use it as a guide. For a larger spacing betw een tucks, use the adju stable guide (see ilL on page 42) which is part of every cording foot. Various Cording Effects Attractive cording effects may be obtained by com bining horizontal, verti cal and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill, below). If you want to turn a cor ner, leave needle in fab ric (up to needle eye only), lift foot, turn fabric, lower foot, and continu e sewing. To stitch an acu angle, turn fabric halfway te , let needle make one stitch, turn fabric all the way, and resume stitc hing.
OR 473
OR 474
OR 475
43
ORO5BA
DR 059
93100t19
Ornament& Sewing
You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by hand. This will be easy after you have had sufficient practice. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below. V
I
Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1.6 mm twin needle (see page 41) and different color thread. For twin-needle sewing, the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond 1 1/2â&#x20AC;?.
I
44
R5414
93100178
Coarse-Thread Embroidery Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A = 0 to 4; needle position lever B = optional; stitch length: small to medium. Buy coarse, four-ply embroidery thread in the desired colors from your Pfaff dealer. Embroidery designs made with this thread are very attractive. They have dimensional quality and closely resemble manual embroidery work. The adjoining designs were made with the zigzag stitch. To make the design illustrated in the middle, alterna te straight and zigzag stitching. Machine embroidery is made with the machine runnin g at a moderate speed.
45
[E838
Stitching Synthetic Materials Curtains Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A stitch length control = 1.
=
I to 3, depending on material; needle position lever B
=
To finish the edge of synthetic curtain fabrics, such as Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the upper and lower tensons somewhat. Both these hints should be adhered to in order to avoid shrinking of both the thread and the fabric in the laundry. To butt seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as instructed on p. 31.
Plastic Sheets Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A
=
0 to 2; needle position lever B
=
4- stitch length: medium.
Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, are sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a fine needle. Place a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which can be easily removed after the sewing. To prevent plastic sheets from sticking to the sewing foot, wipe its sole with an oily cloth.
46
CONTENTS Page Foreword Essential Parts Fundamentals of Machine Operation
.
Page
1 2 3
How to Operate Your Sewing Machine Engaging and Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism The Workplate Electrical Information Motor Disengaging Mechanism Foot Control Straight Stitching Zigzag Sewing Removing the Bobbin Case Winding the Bobbin Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing the Needle Upper Threading Correct Tension Regulation Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Regulating the Thread Tension Stitch Length Regulation Reverse Sewing Changing the Sewing Foot Dropping the Machine Feed
4 4 5 5 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 13 14 16 16 17 18 18 19 20
Darning Foot All-Purpose Sewing Foot
20 21
Care and Maintenance Changing the Light Bulb Removing and Replacing the Face Cover Trouble Shooting
22 24 24 25
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments Zipper Insertion Quilting Flat Felled Seams Hemming Overcasting Edges Butt Seaming Darning without Darning Hoops Darning Inserting Patches Attaching Lace Applique Work Sewing Buttonholes Button Sewing Sewing and Embroidering Monograms Hemstitching Cording Ornamental Sewing Coarse Thread Embroidery Stitching Synthetic Materials
28 28 29 30 31 31 32 33 34 34 35 36 38 39 40 41 44 45 46
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.
48
CPFAFFD°
© Printed in Germany Nr. 20011 engL (US)WI ii