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Popular Gentleman System For
Cutting and Designing Of
MEN'S Garments
PUBLISHED BY
Popular Gentleman Service Company LOCK BOX 6345
W. PHILADELPHIA, PA.
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1017 by Servire
29 1917
ŠCIA4R720S
Company
LIMITED EDITION. This edition of which this
is
is
limited to one thousand complete copies
No.
.
This copyright volume
for the exclusive use of
of
POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY.
1917 Edition "A"
is
HOW TO TAKE A
DIAGRAM SHOWING
DEPRESSION MEASURE
Diagram No
I
Normal TiGune
The yard
stick
must always be straight up and down and not
lean in or
out at the top or bottom. Use the yardstick as shown in Diagrams 1-2 and
Diagram Measure
1
shows how
to hold the
more or
less.
yard stick and square.
in for the waist depression
the hollow part of the waist which
is
3.
from the edge of the yard stick
2 inches for a normal
to
man, but can be
WAIST Depression
Seat
Depression
DIAGRAM
No. ^ and Form Stooping Sway to Front
Diagram No. 2 shows the stooping and sway to the front form. The distance from the yard stick to the hollow part of waist is 2V2 inches, but can be more or less.
The distance from the yard be more or less.
stick in to the seat
is li/o
inches, but can
When drafting trousers for this form deduct the seat depression from the waist depression before drafting and the difference gives you the correct waist depression for the trousers.
Bl_AOE Otr>RCSSION
Waist
DtPRtSSlOM
Diagram
Diagram No.
3
No. 3
shows the erect form with large
seat.
When
drafting
a coat for a form of this kind, deduct the blade depression from the waist
depression and draft the pattern. &eat measure the
When always.
After the pattern
amount you reduced the waist
drafting trousers draft
them the
full
is
drafted add to the
depression.
waist depression measure
HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE
Diagram
Diagram No.3
No. I
Take the breast and waist measure and then place the square up under the arm as shown, and mark in the front and back of the arm at the top of square as Diagram No. 1.
Place the edge of the square on the at the back of
arm and
mark
square
across as shown. Mark in the center of the back at the top of the square for the scye depth as shown in Diagram No. 3.
Diagram Ho.Z
Diagram Na4Place the square over the top of the shouldmark in back of the square in front of arm scye as Diagram No. 2. er and
Take the scye depth and waist length, also the length of seat and the full length as shown in Diagram No. 4.
D/AGRAM
Diagram No.5
No. 6
Take the strap measure from the center seam in the back of vest at the neck down to the mark in front of arm as shown on Dia-
Take the over shoulder measure from the scye depth mark in the center of the back, across the shoulder and down to the mark in front of the arm as shown on Diagram
gram No.
No.
5.
Diagram
6.
No. 7
Take the blade measure from the mark in front of arm, around seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7.
to the
HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE
To get an easy sack coat you should increase the breast and waist measure one or more sizes or as
None correctly,
much
as
is
wanted for
of the other measures should be changed
ease.
if
they have been taken
namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye
depth.
In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest,
and enlarge the
breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as
wanted for
Do
much
as
is
size.
not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you
add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which
is
the drafts.
If the
above
is
followed out closely you will get good results.
10
shown on
HOW TO OPEN
VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
The
The broken The at point
lines
show the vest before
solid black space
C shows how the
Draw a
B
show the vest after
solid black lines
and thru
line
it is
it is
opened.
opened.
from the side at the point
vest
D
across to the front
is filled in.
back from the pocket to
A
and cut the pattern from
A
in to
to C.
Open the pattern from
A
to
D
14 of
aii i'lch
for each inch stout.
Paste a piece of paper over the opening from the front point at C back to point
D
and draw a
line
from
Take out the space between
D to B. A and D
and into B.
This leaves the solid black space filled in as diagram, which gives the length over the stomach for the stout.
This finishes the diagram.
11
DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR SACK COAT
A
located at the front sleeve notch.
is
Square across from
A
to get B.
Cut the pattern thru from
C
A
B and add
to
located at the top of the side
is
seam
V2 inch for seams.
in the
arm
scye.
Square across from C to get D.
Open the pattern thru from C
A
to
E
to E-1 is 2 inches.
E
Draw
is
a line from is
E down
2 inches.
I-ay a piece of paper is
D
and allow
y.>
inch for seams.
3 inches.
E-2 to E-3
F
to
to get E-2.
This forms the front strap.
under the pattern and trace
off
the front strap.
located at the normal waist line.
F-1
is
located at the normal waist line.
F-2
is
located at the normal waist line.
Draw
a line from F-2 to the front of coat above the bottom button
1
inch
to get F-3.
Go down from
F, F-1, F-2
and F-3 for the width of
belt 2 inches
and shape
as diagram.
way between F and
G
is
G
to G-1 is 1 inch.
G
to G-2 is 1 inch.
half
F-1.
Square up from G-1 to locate G-4. Square up from G-2 to locate G-3.
Lay
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the back strap.
Open the pattern thru at the and back together.
Lay
side
seams and lay the side seams of fore part
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt.
This finishes the diagram.
13
A COAT FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM
HOW TO OPEN
(tpen the pattern at the under
arm seam from the arm
Cut thru pattern from
pocket at H.
H
to
hole
H-1 which
is
down 1/2
to the
inch back
from the front edge of pocket.
Open the pattern from H-1 to D-6. Open the pattern as diagram at H Vi inch you want to give for ease.
for each inch stout or as
Cut a strip of paper the shape of the opening from
H
to
much
as
H-1 and D-6.
Paste the strip of paper over the opening from D-G to H-1 and H.
The
solid black
Cut from
H
shown on diagram
in to
is
how
the coat
off
to be filled in.
H-1 and take out the white space from top of pocket at
and into H-1.
Take
is
the side body at
H
as nnich as
it
This finishes the diagram for the stout.
14
laps.
H
DIAGRAM OF SOLID PINCH BACK
A and B
is
the normal waist
Come up from A and B Lay
line.
2 inches to get
C and
D.
a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B,
and D.
E and F is half way between A and C and B and Draw a line from E to F. Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. Add 14 inch to E to get E-1.
D.
ohape the back at diagram. E-1 to
X
is
2 inches.
Square up and down from X.
X to X-1
is 21/2
inches.
Square up and down from X-1. Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram. Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at This finishes the diagram.
15
E
as diagram.
C
DIAGRAM OF HALF PINCH BACK
DIAGRAM
1.
Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B. Go up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the andD. E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. Draw a line from E to F.
16
belt as at A, B,
C
DIAGRAM Cut the pattern thru on
Add
1/2
Add
14 inch at
inch at
F E
line
E and F
2.
as diagram
2.
to get F-1. to E-1.
Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1.
X
is
2 inches in
from E-1.
Square up from X.
X
to
X-1
is 21/2
inches.
Square up from X-1.
X
in as
much
at
Pinch in as
much
at X-1 as you add at
Pinch
If
where the back
as you add at
is split
thru
is
F
as diagram.
E
as diagram.
to be
seams. This finishes the diagram.
17
seamed up allow
1/2
inch for the
:
REGULAR TROUSERS
The measurements are as follows Outside seam
41
Inseam
in.
32
in.
Square down and out from 1
to 3 is the rise 9 inches.
1
to 6 is the outside
! is
half
2
is
Square out from 3 to 7
1.
inches.
6.
4.
3.
2, 3,
in.
in. Seat Depression 2 inches.
3 and
up from
Vs seat up from
31 37
seam measure 41
way between
o is 1Y> inch
Waist
5 and
G.
is 1/2 seat.
7 to 8 is 1-32 seat.
18
Knee ._ Bottom
19
in.
16
in.
8
8 to 9
is
9 to 10
is
1-12 seat. 1-32 seat.
11 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point is
12 to 14
is 14.
Draw Draw
12.
l^ waist plus l^ inch.
12 to 13
waist plus 14 inch.
from 13 to 7, this gives you point a line from 13 to 8. L'raw a line from 14 to 2. 16 is half way between 7 and 9. Square down from 16 to get point 17. a line
15.
17 to 18 is 1/0 inch. 18 to 19 is y-> bottom or 8 inches. 20 is half way between 18 and 19. Draw a line from 20 up thru the knee to 11, this locates point 21, at the knee. 21 to 22 is 1,4 knee measure. 21 to 23 is 14 knee measure. Draw a line from 18 to 22 and from 19 to 23 and up to point 2. Shape side seam from 9 to 22, and from 10 to 22. Shape from 13 down to 10. Take out dress from 13 to 15 and down thru 9 to 10. Shape side seam from 14 to 2. This finishes the fore part.
BACK PART. Square out from points 1, 13, 2, 3, 10, 22 and 18. 23 to 24 is Y> inch. 22 to 25 is 1/2 inch. 1 to 26 is 1/2 inch. 19 to 27 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from 27 to 24. Draw a line from 26 to 25. 10 to 28 is i/s seat. Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 29 to 30 is the depression measure 2 inches. Place long arm of square on point 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square rests on line 1 and apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is 9% inches on short arm of square, so that it falls on hne 1 as diagram, and gives you point 31. Now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and 15 and shape the back seam as diagram dropping 14 inch below point 28.
31 to 32 is 3 inches. 32 to 33 is 1 inch. Take out V at 32 and 33. 2 to 34 is l'^/4, inches. Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. This finishes the draft.
19
—
STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS
The measurements are Outside seam
:
42
in. .
Inseam
„,
31 m.
Waist
42
in.
Abdomen
44 in. ... 44 m.
Depression measure 2 at waist gi ^^^^
in.
Rise
11
Bottom
in.
Seat ,,
,
20
in.
17
in.
1
Square down and out from
1.
1 to 3 is
the rise 11 inches.
1 to 6 is
the outside seam measure 42 inches.
i is half
way between
3 and
5
is
IV2 inches up from
2
is
Vr seat
up from
Square out from 8 to 7 is
1/2
is
1-32 seat.
8 to 9
is
1-12 seat.
9 to 10
3.
2, 3,
7 to 8
6.
4.
5 and
6.
seat.
1-32 seat.
is
1 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point 12.
12 to 13
is
14 waist plus 14 of an inch.
12 to 14
is
14 waist plus
12 to
F
is 1-6
of an inch.
i/i.
abdomen measure.
Square out from F.
F
abdomen measure. from F-1. waist up from 13.
to F-1 is 14
F-2
is
14 of an inch
F-3
is
1-32
Draw Draw Draw Draw
a line from 14 to F-3. a line from F-3 to F-1 and from F-3 to F-2. a line from 27 to 24.
from 26
a line
10 to 28
to 25.
Vb seat.
is
Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8 29 to 30
measure
incline
is
arm
Place long
to get point 29.
at waist 2 inches.
of square on points 15 and 30 so that the
square rests on line squared back from
1
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;now apply
measure plus 2 inches for seams and make 121/2
from
inches on short
arm
of square so that
it
as diagram and gives you point 31,
1
up,
which
falls
short
arm
of
14 of the waist in this case is
on line squared back
now draw
a line from 31
down to 30 and 15. shape the back seam as diagram dropping 1/4 of an inch below point 28. "1 to 32 is 3 inches. across to corner of square and
Now
32 to 33
is 1
inch.
Take out
V
2 to 34
134 inches.
is
at 32
Shape from 31
and
to 34
33.
and from 34
to 24.
This finishes the draft.
21
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
GOLF TROUSERS
The measurements are as Outside length
30
in.
Inseam length
21
in.
Waist
32
in.
Seat
38
in.
Knee length 23 Small of knee length 25 Calf length __._ 29 Rise 9
Square down and out from 1
to
A
1
to
B
is
1
to
C
is
1
to
D
is
is
follows
A
1.
to
:
Knee
in.
Small of knee Calf
in.
Depression
in.
A-1
seat plus
is 1/2
A-1 to A-2
the knee length.
Scjuare up and
the calf length
Square out from A,
B- C,
1
_14
in.
15
in.
2
in.
in.
the rise 9 inches.
the small of knee length plus
ISi/i in-
is
i/j
1-12 seat plus
inch. 1/2
down from A-1
inch. to get points
2 and B-1.
inch.
jjIus 1 inch.
Point 15
and D.
A-3
M.
is
is
h;df
'
<!
seat
up from A-1.
way between A and
A-2.
_s
.$=1
Square up from A-3 to locate
3.
A-5
inch from
3.
A-6
is
C-6
is 1/2
inch from C-2.
C-7
is 1/2
inch from C-1.
4
14 waist plus
is
5 is
i/i
Draw
A
waist plus Vi inch from
3.
a line from 5 to A-1.
A-4
to
l/i
Draw
is 1
inch.
a line from A-4 to
B-1 to B-2
2 inches
Draw Draw
4.
inch.
is 1
from A-4.
a line from A-6 to C-7.
E
is 1/2
C-5 to E-1
B-2 to B-3
from A-2.
a line from A-5 to C-6.
C-4 to
the knee measure.
is 1/2
Ys seat
is
inch.
is 1/2
inch.
inch.
D-2 to E-2
is 1/2
Square down from B-3 to get C-1.
D-3 to E-4
is 1/2 inch.
B-1 to B-4
Draw Draw
is 1 inch.
a line from
E
to E-4.
a line from E-1 to E-2.
Square down from B-4 to get C-2.
Draw
a line
Draw
a line from A-4 to C-1.
from A-2
Place your square on points 15 and 20 so that
to C-2.
the short
Form 4 small pleats with the amount C-1 to C-2 is larger than small of knee measure as diagram.
C-3
is
half
C-3 to C-4
is 14.
C-3 to C-5
is
of square rests on line 1,
and
apply
your
waist measure plus 2 inches for the
seams and
Draw
way between
arm
squared out from
C-1 and C-2.
V
on
line 1 to get point
a line from 15 up
thru
20
X.
to top of
square to get X-1.
small of knee plus 14 inch.
14 small of knee plus 14 inch.
X-2
is 1/2
inch above X.
Draw
a line from X-2 to X-1.
Draw
a line
Square down from C-3 to locate D-1. D-1 to D-2
is 1/4 calf
measure plus
i/j.
is
14 calf measure plus 14 of an
to C-7.
Shape the back seam from X-1 thru 15 and out to A-5.
inch.
Draw
to A-6.
Shape from X-2 thru A-6 and down
inch.
D-1 to D-3
from X-2
of an
a line from C-5 to D-2 and C-4 to D-3.
Shape from 5 to A-2. Shape from 4 thru A-4 and down
1/2
1
inch
V
as diagram.
Take out the same amount in pleats on back part at bottom as on forepart.
to C-1.
Shape from D-2 to D-3 extending below D-1 as diagram.
Take out
inch
Cut
off
the cuff and allow 14 inch for seam
on each the top of cuff and bottom of pants.
BACK PART. Square out from
1,
20
from 5 or
is
2 inches in
measure.
This same draft ers
A-2 and A-4.
will cut
knickerbocker trous-
and instead of using the
bottom use a I14 inch band. the
depression
This finishes the draft.
cuff at the
RIDING BREECHES
Outside se'm I'n'h 87 Inseam length __ 28 Waist 32 Seat 38
in.
Knee
.
in.
Small of knee
in.
Calf
in.
Ankle
ISi/o
in.
14 15
in.
9
in.
_.
in.
Depression measure at waist 2 inches.
'Mi
Knee length ^ __ 23 Small of knee I'n'h 25 Calf length 29 Rise 9
in. in.
in.
in.
Square down and out from
BACK PART.
1.
1 to 2 is
the rise 9 inches.
Square out from points
1 to 3 is
the knee length 23 inches.
Square up from point 8 to get point
1
to 4 is the small of
1 to 5 is the calf
knee length 25 inches.
length 29 inches.
is
2 to 6
is
the inseam measure 28 inches.
Square out from
5
2, 3, 4,
and
Draw
% of an inch.
2-1 to 2-2 is
8 to 9
is
1-12 seat.
Draw
22 to 23
% of an inch. way between
half
9
12 to 13
is
14 waist plus
12 to 14
is
14 waist plus
and
2.
of an inch.
Vx. 1/1
Draw
of an inch.
half
Draw
way between
6
and
to
B B
to B-1 is Vr small of knee. to B-2 is 14 small of knee.
C C
to C-1 is to C-2 is
D
18 to
is
1/4.
16.
D
From
From
is 1
inch.
B-2 to B-1 and from B-3 to B-4
From D
measure plus to
Take out
D-1 and from D-2 to D-3
l-^-'i.
the
is
the
is
the
1 inch.
ankle measure plus 41/2
is
1 inch.
C-2 to C-1 and from C-3 to C-4
calf
calf.
1-3 inch the size of the ankle or 3
of an inch
3i/j inches.
V
in center of
back
part as diagram.
IV2 inches. Draw a Kne from 14 to 2-1 and from 2-1 to B-1 down through C-1 and D-1, this gives you the ease at A-1 for the bend at knee. is
Split the
a line from 9 to A-2. shape from 13 through
Shape from 10
to B-2
back part through at point 3 and
A-2 take i/j
1/0
in all 1.5
to 10.
When
extending 14 of an
of an inch out above
of an inch out below A,
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;take
Draw
Now
to D-2
of an inch. of an inch.
to D-2.
inches.
2 to 2-1
is 1/2 is l/j
small of knee measure plus
measure or
%
as diagram.
Shape back part from line 22 to 21, down to 25, shape from 25 to B-3, C-3 and down
calf.
to D-1 is half of the ankle
2-1
is i/b seat.
B-2 to B-3
inches.
D
V
C-2 to C-3
you points A, B, C, as diagram. A-1 is Vs knee. to A-2 is Vi knee.
A A
same distance as from
a line from 22 to 24 and take out a
10 to 25
inch from 17. a Hne from 18 to point 11, this gives
1/8
w-aist plus 2 inches.
two inches.
a line from 2-2 through 23 to find point
inch
%
is 1
i/i-
22.
to 14.
a line from 8 to 13. seat. 8 to 15 is Square down from 8 to get point 16. is
is
2-2 to 24 is the 12.
Draw
18
through 21 and extend
24.
Square up from 11 to get point
17
9
which gives you point
is
is
20.
the line 5 inches always above point 21,
6.
7 to 8
11
from
a line
is 1/4 seat.
is
10.
the incline measure at waist 2
is
2 to 7
9 to 10
and
inches.
to 6
the outside seam length 37 inches.
1
20 to 21
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
the inch
pattern
is
out
making as
A
and
1
inch
diagram.
cut out add to each the
above and bottom part where inch
is
inch out at point A-2.
Shape from A-2 through B-2 and C-2 down
D
taken out 14 of an inch for seams.
to
Shape side seam from 24 to 2-2 and down B-4 and C-4 and through to D-3.
as diagram.
seam as diagram from 14 to B-1, C-1 and down to D-1.
Shape outside 2-1 to
This finishes the draft.
25
to
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
WR'
REGULAR VEST
/^S
X
The measurements
are as follows
36
in.
32 Waist Waist depression 2
in.
Scye depth __ 8' 4 Waist length 17
in.
Full lengths
Breast
Overshouldcr
1()"'
|
_
in.
26
:
in. in.
271/0 in.
Strap
11
'-j
in.
Side length ___ 23i/i Opening 11
in.
Blade
in.
III/4,
in.
Square down and out from A.
5
is
14 breast less 14 inch
A A
6
is
% of an inch below
to
A-A
to
B
is
A-A
to
C
Va breast plus
is
A
the same as i/_Âť
is
of an inch.
" i
A-A.
to
to
for the scye
D
to
gives the proportions for the strap
to
E
is
D
and E.
El
a line from
D-1 to D-2
D-2 to D-3
is 1
D-4 D-5
is 11/2
half
to
B
to locate
j.
is 1
inch below D-5.
is 1
inch below D-3.
10
a line from X-4 to X-3.
is
1
4 thru
down thru
6
of an inch.
G
of an inch up from
the side length plus
is
is
the
is 1/2
A-5
is 1/2
to
A-5 to A-6
of an inch.
A-3 to
get point 2 above
is 1
1
inch.
length plus
1 inch.
G and from G
to G-1.
full
to
A-1 to A-4
A-3
1. -Vj,
%
2 inches below E-1.
is
Shape from 10 â&#x20AC;˘;4
D-5 and down.
breast plus
H
A-3 to G-1
inch. inch. inch.
M is the opening plus
1
inch.
a line from A-1 to M. Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru to M. Shape from M down thru D-8 and E-4 to G-1
is
one half the width of back from
D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Square up from D-6
a line from A-1 to
from 2
a line
as diagram.
to get point A-1.
B
from A-6 down to M. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
Shape stand and
to locate 3.
to 3.
one half the breast measure from D-2
is
off
is
E-2 to E-3
2 inches.
is
make
inch out from E-3.
is 1/4
line
from E-4 up thru D-8.
breast from
up.
Apply overshoulder measure plus
Square down from E-3.
Draw a
to 10 as diagram.
drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus â&#x20AC;˘J4 of an inch for
one half the waist measure or
16 inches. is 11/4
A down
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3 measure on line
114 inches out from D-7.
E-1 to E-2
collar
the collar.
Shape back from
or 18 inches.
4
inch from E-1.
1
E-5 and from X-2 to E-6.
Draw
D-3 to D-6
E-4
inch from D-1.
X-4
A-3 to
D-3.
1.
is
1
inch from E-4.
A-1.
inches in front of D-4.
D-D to X is i/a breast plus Draw a line from X to A to
D-8
to
1
X-3
inches.
D-D.
way between D-1 and
to 1 is Vs breast plus
D-7
waist plus
A-3
the blade measure 111
is
Square up from
Draw Draw
is 1/2
Shape from
Square up from D-5.
A
E-6
breast plus
D-3. to locate point D-1.
inch.
Square up from D-3 is
waist plus
inch from D-8.
Shape front of arm scye from
to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches.
Draw
is 1/2
5.
1
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1.
the waist length 17 inches.
Square out from
E
is 1/2
E-5
Draw
measure.
A
X-2
Shape from X-1
depth.
A-A
breast plus
is 1/2
breast.
D is 21/2 inches. A to D gives the proportions C
X-1
from A-1.
inch for
make up on broken
-jt
of an
lines.
This finishes the draft.
2.
-(i3=j
27
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
3"
STOUT VEST
AS
X
The measurements are as
Breast
Waist Waist depression
44 44 2
follows
:
in.
Side length -__ 24
in.
in.
Rcye depth __ 10 Waist length 17
in.
Opening
13
in.
in.
Full length --281,4
in.
Blade
131/4.
in.
in.
Overshoulder
19-'
t
in.
28
Strap 1^\A
in.
Square down and out from A.
4
A A
5
is 1/4
breast less 14 inch from A-1.
6
is â&#x20AC;˘%,
of an inch below
to
A-A
is i/ÂŤ
to
B
the same as
A-A
to
C
D
A
to
C
A
of an inch.
A-A.
to
breast.
is 1/2
is 21/2
E
to
is
breast plus
Vj.
D
Square out from
is
depression 2 inches. to
B
is
D-5
is 11/2
the blade measure 13 14 inches.
Square up from to
Draw
X
is i/j
breast plus
1
inch from D-1.
E-5
is 1/2
waist plus
1
inch from E-4.
D-3.
Shape from A-3
10
a line from
X
A
to
1.
of an inch.
to get point 2
is
is
'
)i
4 thru D-5
breast plus
and down.
'j^
of an inch up from
2 inches below E-1.
A-3 to
above
A-3
G
is
to G-1
the side length plus is
the
full
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 9-16 inches.
length plus
A-3 to A-5
is 1/2
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1.
A-5
to
A-6
is 1
Draw
a line
A-3
to
M is the opening plus
Draw
a line from 2 to
D-7
is
to
B
to locate 3.
one half the breast measure from D-2
Shape from
is II/4,
is
2 inches less
each waist is 4
is
i/t
stout, in this case the waist
E-2 to E-3
is
is 1
from E-3.
a line
M.
down thru D-8 and E-4
to 10 as
to G-1
A
diagram.
to 2
and ap-
up.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus
Square down from E-3.
Draw
to
amount at D-3, measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1. this gives you the strap measure plus -V^ of an inch for
half the waist measure or 22
14 inch out
inch.
ply the
inch.
make is 1
1
Measure the top of back from
inches.
E-4
inch.
Shape stand at A-6. Shape back from A down
of an inch for
inches stout, and the distance from
E-1 to E-2
inch.
as diagram.
inch out from D-7.
E-1 to E-2
M
1
to G-1.
inch.
Draw a line from A-1 to M. Shape from A-5 to A-4 and thru
3.
or 22 inches.
D-8
inch.
1
Shape from 10 to G and from G A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch.
1.
from A-1
down thru
6
A-1.
1.
-^
2.
D-3.
% of an inch.
breast plus
is 1/8
inch below D-3.
is 1
Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape point of arm scye from
inch in from D-4.
to 1 is Yn breast plus
D-D
X-2
inch from D-8.
1
a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to
Square up from D-5.
A
breast plus
Draw
way between D-1 and
half
is 1/2
X-4
to locate point D-1
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-4
5.
X-1
is 14 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5.
inch.
is 1
D-2 to D-3
2.
E-6
and E.
E to E-1 is the waist Draw a line from E-1 D-1 to D-2
from
inches.
the waist length 17 inches.
is
14 breast
is
inch on broken lines.
from E-4 up thru D-8.
This finishes the draft.
29
^ij.
of an
:
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST WITH COLLAR
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist depression
36 in 32 in. 2 in.
follows
Scye depth _ _ 8V2 Waist length 17
Side length -_-23i4 10 Opening
in. in.
Blade
Full length -.27 1/2 in.
Overshoulder
1(5 â&#x20AC;¢'
|
in.
30
Strap
11
'
.j
in.
II14
in. in.
in.
-SL^
Square down and out from A.
A A
A-A is 1/8 breast plus -ji of an inch. B is the same as from A to A-A.
to to
A-A to C C to D is A-A to D
A A
X-3 X-4
is 1/2
a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to 2.
breast.
Shape shoulder from 6
to
D
is
the scye depth
to
E
is
the waist length 17 inches.
D
8i/> inches.
to
is 1
D-3
is
and E.
is
10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. A-3 to A-5 is V-i inch. A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. Line D-8 and E-4 is center vest front. Draw a hne from A-1 thru M to front of vest. The top button is 6 inches down from M and they are 3 inches apart. The top button is 21/4 inches back from cen-
inch.
the blade measure 111
inches.
4.
halfway between D-1 and D-3.
D-5 is 11/2 inch in front of D-4. Square up from D-5.
A
to 1 is
1/8
breast plus
Square up from
â&#x20AC;˘;4.
%
1
A-1.
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
D-4
down thru
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. of an inch up from is a breast plus
A-3
point D-1.
D-1 to D-2
6
D-3.
E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates
D-2
to A-1.
Shape front of arm scye from
the strap measure IIV2 inches.
Square out from
inch below D-3.
is 1
Draw
21/2 inches. is
inch below D-5.
is 1
of an inch.
1.
D-D to X is breast plus % of an inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above i/jj
ter vest line.
IV2 inch back from cenline from the top button thru the center button to get the space of the bottom button extend out of an inch in front of center vest line
The center button
1.
is
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of the back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
ter vest line,
Draw
more than you come back from the center vest line for the buttons and shape the front from A-5 thru A-4 and M and
D-7
is
a line from 2 to
%
3.
one half the breast measure from D-2
or 18 inches.
D-8 is 1/0 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16
on thru to G-1.
Shape stand and
Shape the back from gram.
inches.
is
I/4.
is
is 1/2
E-5
is 1/2
is 1/2
Lay a
to
A down
to 10 as dia-
piece of paper under the pattern and
trace off the collar.
inch in from D-8.
1 inch in from D-1. waist plus 14 inch in from E-4. waist plus 1 inch in from E-1.
Apply overshoulder measure plus of an inch for make up on broken lines.
2.
14.
inch from A-1.
% of an inch below
X-1 X-2
from A-6 down
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3, measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus -j^ of an inch for
breast from
5 is 14 breast less
6
collar
front of vest.
E-4 is 1/2 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 4
draw a
breast plus breast plus
14.
5.
E-6 is 1/2 Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2
make
up.
%
This finishes the draft.
to E-6.
-d^
31
CLERICAL VEST
The measurements are as follows :Breast
36 32
Waist Waist depression 2
in.
Scye depth ^_ 8i/o Waist lenpfth 17
in.
Full length
in.
Over shoulder
1(5
"â&#x20AC;˘
1.
27
in.
in.
Side length ___ 231/.
in.
in.
Blade Strap
llVi
in.
111/2
in.
in.
Collar 141/^
in.
:
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
Square down and out from A.
A A
A-A
to
is
breast plus
i/h
to
B
is
the same as from
A-A
to
C
is 1/2
C
to
A
to
D E
is
â&#x20AC;˘'
^
of an inch.
A
to
A-A.
D-3.
is 21/2
breast.
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. A-3 is Vij breast plus 1 inch up from A-1.
inches.
the waist length 17 inches.
10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. Shape from A down to 10. Shape neck from A-1 to the front as diagram. Apply collar size from A to 2 and from A-1 down plus %. of an inch to A-4. A-5 is 1 inch from A-4. Shape from A-5 thru D-8 and E-4 down to G as diagram. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply this amount at D-3 measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus 1 inch. Apply the over shoulder measure on broken lines plus of an inch.
Square out from D and E. E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. a line from E-1 to B to locate D-1. D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure llVi. inches. Square up from D-3 to get point D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5 is 11/0 inch in from D-4. Square up from D-5.
Draw
A
to 1 is
i/g
breast plus
Square up from
1 inch.
1.
D-D to X is 8 breast plus 1 Draw a line from X to A to 1
inch.
;
get point 2 above
1.
D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3.
Draw D-7
a line from 2 to
is
%
Diagram of
3.
Measure the
or 18 inches.
5
is 1/4
6
is
%
from
it
full
is
neck hole,
size of
8 inches and deduct
Draw a straight line from A to B is 714 inches.
inches.
14 breast
front.
in this
of an inch for seams which leaves 714 collar size and draft as follows
case
E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. A-2 is Vs breast plus 1/2 inch down from A-1. Square out from A-2. is
shown on vest
THE COLLAR.
one half the breast measure from D-2
D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16
4
collar is
-Ji
A.
Square down from A half the collar size which is 3-% inches to C. Square over from C and down from B to get D.
D A
E is collar width 1 inch. to F is collar width I14 inch. Square out from F as diagram.
2.
breast less 14 inch from A-1. of an inch below 5. 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8.
X-1 is X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3.
to
'
Place your collar size on
1.
D
and
line
F
to get
G.
Draw a line from D to G. Square up from G the width of
collar to get
point H.
Draw
a line
from
H
to
gram. This finishes the draft.
Mti.
33
E and
shape as dia-
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
FULL DRESS VEST
The measurements are as follows Breast
Waist Waist depression
38 34 2
:
in.
in.
Scye depth __ Syis Waist length 17
in.
Blade Side length
in.
Full length __28
in.
Opening
in.
Over shoulder 17 y^
34
in-
Strap 12
in.
_
_
11%
in.
24
in.
18
in.
M % of an inch below
Square down and out from A.
6
A to A-A is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A.
X-1
X-2
is 1/2
breast plus
A-A
E-5
is 1/2
waist plus
1
inch in from E-4.
21/0 inches.
E-6
is 1/2
waist plus
1
inch in from E-1.
gives the proportions for the strap
Shape from X-1
C
to
is 1/2
C to D is A-A to D
breast.
X-3
is 1
D
X-4
is 1
to
A
to
gives the proportions for the scye
Draw a
depth.
E
is
E E-1 Draw a to
D
and E.
the waist depression 2 inches.
is
from E-1
line
to
B which
locates
D-1 to D-2
is 1 is
is
10
above
1.
D-3 to D-6
is
% of an inch.
A-3 plus to
A
'-''/i.
of an inch.
to locate point 2
E-2 to E-3
one half the width of back from
is
1/4
M
as
collar
from A-5 down
to
M
M
the collar.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount at D-3 and measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives of an inch you the strap measure plus
%
114 inch out from E-3.
5 is
to
to E-4 and down to G-1. Shape the back from A down to 10. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace
Shape from
measure or 17
4 is
M
1 inch.
1-6 breast to locate M-1.
a line
off
from E-4 up thru D-8. 14 breast from 2.
inch.
as diagram.
Square down from E-3.
Draw a
1
to G-1.
inch.
the opening plus
Shape stand and
inches.
E-4
is 1
G
inch.
is 1/2
M is
G
length plus
and from
diagram.
2 inches. half the waist
to
full
inch.
1
from A-4 to M-1. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down
Draw
is
the
Square back from
114 inch out from D-7. is
is
A-5
to
A-3 to
or 19 inches. is
the side length plus
is
A-1 to A-4
Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2
E-1 to E-2
G
A-3 to G-1
D-5 to D-2 or 3 7-16 inches.
D-8
to X-3.
2 inches below E-1.
is
A-3 to
1.
D-D to X is % breast Draw a line from X
from X-4
line
Shape from 10
breast plus
Square up from
inch below D-5. inch below D-3.
A-1.
IV2 inch in front of D-4.
1/3
to E-6.
%
inch.
the blade measure 11%. inches.
Square up from D-5. to 1 is
and from X-2
to E-5
Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. of an inch up from A-3 is i/a breast plus
Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5
inch in from D-1.
1
D-3.
point D-1.
D-2 to D-3
5.
inch in from D-8.
1
Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru
the waist length 17 inches.
Square out from
breast plus
is 1/2
measure.
A
A
is
for
make
up.
Aiply over shoulder measure on broken lines
line
plus
breast less 14 inch from A-1.
-^^
I
of an inch for
This finishes the draft.
IIl
35
make
up.
REGULAR SLEEVE FOR SACK COAT AND OVERCOAT
36
:
â&#x20AC;˘
"W
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
The measurements are as follows Arm scye 18 inches. Inseam length 18 :
inches.
Draft as follows
Square down and back from A.
A
to
B
B B E
to
C
is 1
to
D
is
is
half
is
14 the
arm
scye.
inch.
the inseam length.
way between B and
Square out and back from B,
B E
to B-1 is 114, inch.
D
to
to E-1 is 34 of
D-1
D.
E and
D.
an inch.
V/i inch. Draw a line from B-1 to E-1 and from E-1 to D-1 and shape. C to A-1 is 1/2 the arm scye. Draw a line from C to A-1. X is half way between C and A-1. is
Square up 14 the arm scye from
X
to locate
X-1.
Draw
a line from X-1 to
C and from X-1
to
A-1.
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2 and E-2. Square up from line B-1 and B-2 thru X to locate X-2 and B-3. Shape from A-1 to X-2 and down thru C to B-1.
A-1 to A-2
Draw B-4 D-2
a line
is 1
inch.
from A-2
to B-3.
114 inch back from B. is 114 inch back from D. Draw a line from B-4 to D-2 to locate E-3. E-3 to E-4 is 34 of an inch. Shape from B-4 thru E-4 to D-2. is
Shape from A-2 down thru B-3 to B-4. E-2 to E-5 is of an inch. D to D-3 is the cuff size or 13 on the halves. Square down I14 inch from D-3 to get D-4. Draw a line from D-4 to D and shape. Draw a line from A-1 to E-5 and from E-5 to D-4 and shape. Draw a line from A-2 to E-5 and shape. This finishes the draft.
%
37
-m/r
The measurements are as
Arm
follows:
scye 22 inches.
A-3 to A-4
is 1/2
Apply the
full
1
Inseam 18 inches. Front shoulder height 10l^
5%
Front shoulder width Full shoulder width
7l/_>
the full shoulder width measure with the inch added which locates points X-8 and X-9.
in.
in.
A
to
B
is
B
to
C
is 1
C
to
D
is
is
half way between C and D.
is
14 the
C,
B Draw
a line from
B-1
half
is
the
is 1/2
D
scye measure up from C.
Square out from
E
B
D.
scye measure.
Draw
Draw
a line from
X
Draw
line
C and
C-1 thru B-1 to
Square
in
is
X-1 to X-4
is
the front shoulder width.
X-1 to X-5
is
the back shoulder width.
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-1
X-6
to
is 1
to line
is 1/2
B
X-7 and down thru
B
to
A
D
and D-4.
is half way between E and E-1. Shape from A-2 down thru X-9, keep 14 inch back of points C, E-2 and D-7. Shape from A-4 down thru X-8, keep 14 inch in front of points C-2, E-2 and D-7. The 1/2 inch is for seams and must be allowed after cutting out the pattern, if seam is wanted in the back of sleeve make the changes as per broken lines.
to
to locate X-6.
inch.
Sweep from X-5 pivoting on X-1 back
A-A
to
E-2
inch.
a line from A-1 to
X-7
the same as from D-3 to D-4.
Shape from C-5 to D-5. D-7 is half way between
locate A-1.
Draw
is
a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape.
cate C-5.
the back shoulder height.
from A-A.
A-1 to A-2
a line from D-5 to D-3.
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 2 inches from B to C-4 and place this amount on O and measure down to lo-
and X-1.
and X-3.
A-A
less
Shape from A-3 to X-3 and down as diagram. Apply the back shoulder height measure from A-3 down to locate 0.
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 F-1 to
71/2 inches.
C-4.
to F-1.
E-1 and D-1.
locate C-2
the width of cuff or
Shape from A-1
F-1 to locate X.
Square up and down from F-1 to locate C-1,
Square up from
is
D-3 to D-6
F-1.
Square up 14 the arm scye measure from
B and
D-4
11/2 inch.
to F-1.
way between B and
B-1 on line
to
a line from D-3 to D.
Shape from D-4 to D-2. Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. D-1 to D-5 is the same as from D-1 to D
and D.
arm
to C-3.
Shape from C-4 to D-2 as diagram. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches.
Draw
E and
the same as from C-2 to C-1.
Square down from C-4 to locate D-2.
the inseam length.
C,
is
Draw a line from X-3 C to C-4 is 11/2 inch.
in.
inch.
Square back from F, to F-1
C-1 to C-3
the front shoulder height.
arm
shoulder width measure plus
inch from X-7 to X-3 and take out half
the amount on each side of X-1 that the distance from X-7 to X-3 is larger than
in.
Back shoulder width 614. in. Back shoulder height 714. in. Under arm scye measure of sleeve 10 Square down and in from A.
E F
inch.
to line
This finishes the draft.
to locate A-3.
jm:
39
ta?"
SOLID RAGLAN SLEEVE
â&#x20AC;¢-4-
40
OS
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
IK
The measurements are as
Arm
D-2 to D-5
follows:
Draw
Inseam length 18 inches.
5%
Front shoulder width
inches.
Under arm scye measure 10
C
is 1
B
to
D
E
is
half
B
is
i/j.
the
arm
inches.
Draw
scye measure.
way between B and
Square back from A, B,
B
to
D-2
less
the same as from D-3 to D-4.
a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape.
B and
B and
B-2 thru
X
to
lo-
B-2 to B-4
is
the same as from B-2 to B-3.
Square up
1
inch from A-1 to locate A-2 for
D.
E and
line
cate X-2 and B-3.
the inseam length.
Square out from
is
Square up from
inch up from B. is
D
a line from D-5 to D-3.
D-3 to D-6
Square down from A. to
same as from
the
11/2 inch.
scye 22 inches.
A
is
the back sleeve notch.
D.
Square back
D.
X-2
to
to B-1 is 11/2 inch. less
1/2
inch from X-2 to locate X-3.
li/>
X-4
is
the front shoulder width
inch.
Square down from B-1 to locate D-1.
Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-3 Shape from B-1
C
to
A-1
Draw
is 1/0
the
a line from
arm
C
X-4
to
X-5
is 1/2
X-5
to
X-6
is 1
is
half
inch.
scye. inch.
to A-1.
Draw
X
way between C and
a line from X-5 to C.
A-1.
Shape from X-6 down Square up from
arm
Draw
to the front.
to D-1.
X
on
line
C and A-1
Vi the
to
C and
Draw
a line from X-5 to A-2.
Draw
a line from B-4 to A-2.
B-1.
scye to get X-1.
a line from X-1 to A-1.
Shape from X-5
to
A-2 and down as diagram.
Square down from A-1 to locate B-2, E-1 and
Apply the under arm scye measure plus 3 D-2.
D-3
is
Draw
D
to
is
the width of cuff or
Shape from D-4
C
to B-1
B-5.
a line from D-3 to D.
D-4
Draw
inches from
2 inches below D-2.
7y-> inches.
to D-1.
Shape from B-5
to D-6.
Shape from D-5
to D-6.
This finishes the draft.
a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape.
41
and A-2 down
to
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
BALMACANN SLEEVE
The meusurements are as
Arm
Front shoulder width
scye 22 inches.
Back shoulder height
Inseam 18 inches. Front shoulder heij^ht 101 Front under arm
scj'e
follows:
i.
inches.
length 5 inches.
5'"' i
7'
Back shoulder width 6V!
|,
inches.
inches. inches.
Back under arm scye length
9' o inches.
:
Full shoulder
width
7V1> inches.
Draft as follows
Square down and
A
to
B
to
C
C C F
to
D
is 11/2
to
E
is
B
in
from A.
X-1 to A-2
is
the back shoulder width.
the front shoulder height.
is
B and
B
A-3
E-4
is
is 1
inch.
is 1/2
to line
A-A
inch.
to locate 0.
down
Draw a
to
line
D-4 plus
from D-4
II/2 inch.
to E-6.
Measure the distance from X-5 in this case is 9 inches, full
shoulder
width
add
to
X-2 which
1
inch to the
measure,
which
makes it 8V2 inches, apply the 8V2 inches from X-5 to X-2 and take the V2 inch out at X-1 as diagram 14 inch on each side of X-1,
which gives you points X-6
and X-7.
Shape from A-4 down thru X-7 and keep V2 inch back of C-2, F-2 and E-3.
2.
Shape from A-6 down thru X-6 and keep
1/2
inch in front of C-2, F-2 and E-3.
2.
Cut the pattern thru from A-6 down cuff
to
to the
and paste a piece of paper on the
fore part of the sleeve, then lay the
locate X-1 and C-2.
pattern together the same as before
Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 and X-3.
in
A-4
Apply the back under arm scye length from
E-2.
way between F and F-1. Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1
Square
1/2
a line from D-3 to E-4.
down on the
half
is
scye length
a line from X-2 to D-2. Shape from A-5 down thru X-2 to line D-2. Apply the back shoulder height from A-5
Drop below E-6 the same as below E-4 and
A-A
arm
inch.
Draw
Square down IV2 inch from E-5 to get Draw a line from F-1 to 2 and shape.
G-1 to
to
the front under
is
A-5 to A-6
E dropping at E-4 as diagram. Draw a line from F-1 to 1 and shape.
is
inch.
to locate A-5.
the
shape to
to locate X-4.
Sweep from A-2 pivoting on X-1
same as from E to E-3. Square up from E-4 to locate D-1. E-1 to E-5 is the same as from E-1 to E-2. E-5 to E-6 is the same as from E-2 to E-3. Square up from E-6 to locate D-2. Square down IV2 inch from E-2 to get 1. Draw a line from 1 to E and shape from 1 to to
D-3
Draw
halves.
way between E and
to
plus
to locate C-1,
to E-2 is the cuff size 16 inches
half
is 1/2
B
to D-1.
a line
is
on X-1 to
Shape from A-3 down thru X-5, B and thru
G-1 to locate X.
from X to G-1. Square up and down from G-1 F-1 and E-1. Square out from D and E.
E-3
a line from A-3 to
X-4 to X-5
inch.
the inseam length.
line
to line A, pivoting
locate A-3.
Draw
inch.
is 1
on
F-2
the front shoulder width.
half
is
Draw
E
is
Sweep from A-1
way between E and C. G is 14. the arm scye measure up from C. Square back from G, C, D, F and E. B to G-1 is 1/0 the arm scye measure. Draw a line from B to G-1. B-1 is half way between B and G-1. Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1
E
X-1 to A-1
was cut and trace
the back shoulder height.
line
from A-A.
A-4 down.
This finishes the draft.
.iH.
43
off
it
the fore part from
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
REGULAR SACK COAT
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist depression
36 32
in. in.
2 in.
Scye depth _ 8 1/2 Waist length 17
in.
Full length ^_30
in.
Seat 37
A-A
is i/s
to
B
the same as from
is
A-A to C C to D is
is
1/2
21/0
breast plus
A
to
lll^
in.
-16%
in.
111/2 in.
in.
to
D
gives the propor-
tions for the strap measure.
% of an inch.
to
Blade Overshoulder Strap
in.
The above from A-A
Square down and out from A.
A A
follows:
A-A.
breast.
inches always.
"-*'"
44
A
to
A A
to
D is the proportions for E is the waist length.
to
F
is
6 inches.
the scye depth.
.
A
G
to
is
E
E-6 to E-7
the full length.
Square out from D, E,
F and
Draw
to E-1 is the waist depression.
way between E and E-1. Square down from E-2 to locate F-1 and Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1 E-2
D-2
A
is
is
half
i/s
breast plus
Square up from
G-1.
1.
of
A-4
Square up from D-9 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate point Draw a line from 2 through 3 e.xtending
% of an
8
to A-3.
the same as from 2 to 4 less
1/0
is 1/2
inch below
7.
Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through D-8 down. Shape from 6 down. The arm scye measure is 18 14 inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from D-6 to get point X-X for the back sleeve notch. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 14
3. I/2
4.
inch to
is
inch.
inch.
lo-
A-6
6.
the same distance from E-3 as from E-1 to E-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from A to 2 and from 4 to 14 inch in front of 5 as diagram. Shape from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4, F-2 and G-2 as diagram. D-10 is one half the breast measure out from
E-4
roll.
is
A-1 to 7
the width of back from D-5 to D-2 in front of D-3.
in front of 5,
the same as from E-4 to G-2.
Shape from A-1
is 1/2
cate
is
114 inch in front of A-1. Draw a line from the bottom of roll up through A-4 and from A-1 back on the opposite side of square.
a line from D-7 to D-6. D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch.
Square out
to F-1 plus
%
% of an inch below D-5. % of an inch below D-3.
inch out from 3 to get point 1-12 breast up from D-6.
F
inches.
of an inch. Square out from A-2 to locate A-3. Go down 91/2 inches from A-3 to get bottom
2 above
Draw
is
the same as from
a line from G-6 to G-4. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus
E-3, F-2, G-2.
5
3 inches.
is
E-3 to G-6
1.
D-9
is
F-2 to F-3
Draw
D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. D-5 is li/> inch in from D-4. Square up and down from D-.5 to locate points
is
G-3 to G-5
3 inches.
Draw a line from E-3 through F-3. Shape the side seam as diagram.
1 inch.
D-D to X is i/y breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point
is
is
114.
D-2 to D-.3 is the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D.
D-6 D-7
134 inches.
a line
G-3 to G-4
114 inch in from D-1.
to 1 is
is
from E-7 up through D-11. Square down from E-7 to locate G-3.
G.
is
is 21/2
inches in front of crease line at
lapel.
%
Drop your collar of an inch below A-6 as diagram and shape from A-1 down. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and lapel. Shape from bottom of lapel down through E-7 and G-5. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. Apply the strap measure by measuring the amount from A to 2 and placing the amount on D-3 and measure up to A-1
D-2.
D-11 is 214 inches out from D-10. E-1 to E-5 is 2 inches half the amount that waist is smaller than the breast. E-5 to E-6 is half the waist measure.
plus
1
inch.
This finishes the draft.
45
:
THREE BUTTON
D. B.
The measurements
SACK COAT
are as follows
38
in.
34 Waist Waist depression 2
in.
Scye depth _. 8"h Waist length 17
in.
FuU length
Breast
in.
--301/. in.
Seat 39
4G
in.
in.
Blade 11%. Overshoulder -IT'^ Strap 12
in. in. in.
Square down and out from A. of an inch. A to B is i/s breast plus
A-1 to 5
A A
8
%
to
C
is
to
D
is
D
to
A
to
E F
the scye depth. the waist length.
is
6 inches.
is
the
D
to
D-2
D-1
E and
half way between
is
D
C-2 to C-3
Square up from C-3 X-1
Draw
breast plus
Square up from C-4
is
C-5
is
half
inch up from
1
way between
G-1
C-1 and C-3.
G-2
is
of
a line 1
G
414 inches.
to G-1.
F-5
is i/s
breast plus ^^ of an inch.
a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
is
F-2.
3 inches in front of F-4.
Square down 2V2 inches from F-5 to locate F-6.
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3 in this case it is 3%
Draw Draw
inches.
A-3
is
Draw Draw
a line from D-6 up through C-8.
Shape the side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to Square down from D-5 to locate F-4.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
Square up from C-6
to locate A-1.
a line from A-1 to a line
B
The
to locate 3.
from 2 through 3 extending
inch out from 3 to get point 6 is
one half the waist measure.
is
inch.
notch.
C-6
is
to
Draw
down from C-5. an inch down from C-3. from
D-5
D-5 to D-6
to locate D-3,
of an inch
is 3,4
Draw
D-4
2 inches.
a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as E to E-1 plus 1V4
IV2 inch in from C-4.
is ; 4.
414 inches.
is
Draw
to locate 2.
1
is
Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from i/4 inch back of 7 to D-7.
inch in from A.
Square up and down from C-5 E-2 and F-2.
G
X
from X-1 to A.
a line
1 is 1/8
1
5.
Square out from A-2.
to locate X.
Vs breast plus
is
1/2
one half breast out from C-2.
A-1 to A-2
the blade measure.
is
2 to 4 less
D-1 to D-4
Draw
inch.
is 114.
is
C-7 to C-8
and D-1.
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. C-1 to C-2
below
is 1/2 iiich
C-7
F.
the waist depression.
is
same as from
Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down.
\
full length.
Square out from C, D,
the
is
inch.
from G. of an inch from 6
%
Shape from
A
Shape from 4
i'4.
4.
to get 7.
same as on the regular sack
The inch in front of
roll is
a line from A-3 to bottom of lapel. A-4 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. Apply over shoulder and strap measure the
to 2.
to
114 inch in front of A-1. 13 inches long or 13 inches below line A-2.
is
Draw
1/2
1-12 breast up
Square out
from F-3 to F-6. a line from D-6 to F-6.
a line
sleeve
and
collar are also the
This finishes the draft.
6.
47
coat.
same.
:
m STOUT MANS SACK COAT
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist depression
44 44 2
in. in.
in.
Scye depth Waist length Full length
48
10
in.
17
in.
___ 30 in.
Seat 45
^
__
follows
in.
Blade Overshoulder Strap
131/4.
in.
-19%
in.
131/2
in-
.
:ii:
A-1 as diagram.
Square down and out from A. of an inch. A to B is Vs breast plus
Shape from
A A
to
C
is
the scye depth.
Shape from 7 down.
to
D
is
the waist length.
C-7
D
to
j.
Draw
a line
and F-1.
â&#x20AC;˘'?
i.
locates
of line A-2 and shape the neck from A-1
C-1 to C-2
is
114 inch.
C-2 to C-3
is
the blade measure.
to the front.
Draw 1 is
1
breast plus
H
1
Draw Draw
inch up from X.
a line from X-1 to A.
%
breast plus
Square up from is
C-5
is 11/2
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
inch in from A.
114 inch. a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2.
to get 2.
way between
half
C-4
A
1
Draw
C-1 and C-3.
inch in from C-4.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2.
G
of an inch
is -j^
G-1
is
Draw G-2
V
a line from 1
is
down from
Square down from D-6 F-4 to F-5 F-4 to F-6
C-5.
Draw
of an inch below C-3.
â&#x20AC;˘'
G
to G-1.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
to C-2 in front of C-3 or
3%
inches in
line
from A-1
to
B
Square out
to locate 3.
lapel.
The arm scye
up from G.
% of an inch from 6 to get
G
7.
Shape from A to 2. Shape from 4 to Vi inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 8
is 1/2
to
XX
is
is
22 inches. arm scye measure for back
14 the
sleeve notch.
Apply overshoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. Apply strap measure from A to 2 and from
1/0
inch.
inch below 5
back from A-3 on the two sides of
the square. A-1 to A-5 is V2 inch more than from A to 2. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and
a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4.
6 is 1-12 breast
lapel is 9 inches.
a line from the bottom of lapel to A-3. A-4 is half the length of lapel. Lay your square on A-4 and A-3 and draw a
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1 a line
to F-5.
Draw
this case.
Draw Draw
from F-3
The length of
one half the width of back from C-5
is
3 inches.
is
a line
to locate F-4.
3 inches.
is
Shape from D-6 down thru F-6 as diagram. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1.
notch.
C-6
is 1/2 the amount from D-1 to D-2. a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. a line from D-7 to E-2.
D-3 to D-7
Square up from C-3 to locate X. is
inches.
a line from D-6 up thru C-8. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is ViJ breast plus Square out from A-2. Draw a line from top of line C-5 to the front
point C-1.
X-1
1%
is
Draw
B which
to
one half breast out from C-2.
D-5 to D-6
to locate E-1
from D-2
is
C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less Vi inch for each inch the waist is larger than normal. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure.
E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2
8 to
Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
â&#x20AC;˘'
C-3 to A-1 plus 1 inch. This finishes the draft.
.
49
:
'.'T
SACK COAT FOR STOOPING AND SWAY TO FRONT FORM
The measurements are as follows Breast
Waist Waist dep's'n
38 36
in.
Scye depth
in.
Wai.st length 17
in.
1-2 1/2
in.
Full length __30
in.
__
Seat 40
50
914
in.
in.
Blade 12ii Overshoulder .18 11''54 Strap
in. in. in.
Square down and out from A.
A A A D A
% of an inch.
to
B
is
Vs breast plus
C
is
the scye depth.
to
D
is
the waist length.
8
to
E
is
6 inches.
to
F
Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 dowr. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less 1,4 inch for each inch waist is larger than norma,l (\v
to
is
the
full length.
D-1
C, D,
E
and
F.
the waist depression.
is
half
is
C-1 to C-2
K
C-2 to
is
is
11%
121/4.
breast plus
is 1/8
Draw
1
inches.
breast plus
Square up from C-4
is
C-5
is 11/2
1 to
inch plus the difference from
K
to
C-3 in front of C-4.
is
Draw G-2
is
-''/i.
Shape from D-7 through E-2
1
from
G
to G-1.
in
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
Draw
notch.
C-6
with E-3. a line from D-3 through E-3 down.
side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. A-4 is 11/4. inch in front of A-1. The lapel is 9 inches below line A-3 at top
case.
button.
Draw
a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 2 inches in front of the crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. The sleeve and collar are the same as the re-
to locate A-2.
a line from A-2 to B to locate a line from 2 to 3. 1-12 breast up from G.
Draw Draw
Square out
is
Shape the
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or 3"'a inches in this
is
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch
6 is
to F-2.
114 inch. You can see by the diagram of the stooping form and sway to the front form that the yard stick is 1 inch away from the seat, therefore you do not add the amount from E to E-1
of an inch below C-3.
a line
inches.
a line from l^ inch back of 7 to D-7. a line from D-7 to E-2.
E-2 to E-3
% of an inch below C-5. is
1%
Draw Draw
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. G-1
one half the waist measure.
is
to D-2.
and K.
C-1
is
D-5 to D-6
%
locate 2.
way between
half
inches.
D-4 to D-5
to H-2 is 3 inches. of an inch. A-2 to A-3 is i/s breast plus Square out from A-3. Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is one half the amount from D-1
inch in front of A.
1
5.
H
inch up frum X.
a line from X-1 to A.
1 is Vs
inch below
a line from D-6 up through C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 3 inches.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1
1/2
Draw
inches in this case.
the blade measure
is 1/2
11/2
114 inch.
38 coat or C-2 to C-3
F-1. C-1.
the normal blade measure for a
is
less
inch.
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates D-2
G
6.
to
Square out from
D
Shape from 3 to 14 inch in front of A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 3
%
gular sack coat. 1/2 inch out of the back as per broken
3.
of an inch from 6 to get
Take
lines.
This finishes the draft.
7.
51
—
—as-
-^m
I
a.
SACK COAT FOR ERECT FORM WITH FULL CHEST, SMALL WAIST AND BACK
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist dep's'n
follows
38 33
in.
Scye depth __ 8I/2 Waist length 17
in.
in.
2i/o-l
in.
Full length __30
in.
Seat 39.
52
in.
:
±^ Blade 111/4 Overshoulder -17 14 Strap 121/2
in. in. in.
Square down and out from A.
A A A D A
B
is
Vs breast plus
to
C
is
the scye depth.
to
D E F
is
the waist length.
is
6 inches.
is
the
to
%
8
C-7
is
C-8
is
F.
the waist depression 2V2 inches
is
is
half
C-1 to C-2
F-1.
is 2 inches plus 14 inch for each inch that the waist is smaller than normal or 2 i/t inches.
C-1.
114 inch.
is
C-2 to C-3
is
D-4 to D-5 D-5 to D-6
Draw a
the blade measure 11^4 inches.
Vs breast plus 1 inch
H H
up from X.
Draw
a line from X-1 to A. Va breast plus 1 inch in from A.
Square up from
1
1%
inches.
to
HI
to
H-2
is is
3 inches. 3 inches. is
Vh breast plus
% of an inch.
Square out from A-3.
Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7.
Draw
a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2.
E-2 to E-3
is 1
inch taken off the depression
measure and the amount from E
%
to E-1
plus 114 inch or 3 inches. Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam.
notch.
is the same as from D-7 to F-2. a line from F-3 to H-1.
D-3 to F-3
Draw
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or SVa inches. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. is
A-4
is
The
lapel is 10 inches
114 inch in front of A-1.
below line A-3. a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram.
Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 '"ch out from 3 to get point
one half the waist measure.
line
A-2 to A-3
to locate 2.
C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch for the regular coat, but in this case deduct the difference from C-3 to K from the IV2 inch to get point C-5. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. is G 34 of an inch below C-5. of an inch below C-3. G-1 is Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve C-6
is is
from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. is
one half breast out from C-2. 214 inches out from C-7.
D-1 to D-4
C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 coat which is 11% inches.
1 is
5.
depression.
D-1
E and
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates
X-1
inch below
is 1/2
less the 1 inch at the blade or IV2 inch
C, D,
1/2
inch.
Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down.
to
D-2
from G. of an inch from 6
1-12 breast up
is
Square out to get 7. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front of 6. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
full length.
Square out from
D
% of an inch.
to
to
6
Draw
The
sleeve and collar are the
same as
regular sack coat. Apply over shoulder measure the for regular sack coat. This finishes the draft.
4.
for the
same as
-i?=H
53
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
MILITARY COAT
The measurements are as follows Breast
36
in. in.
Scye depth __ S'/j Waist length 17
in.
Waist 32 Waist depression 2
in.
Full length __30
in.
Seat 37.
A
down and out from A. A-A is Vji breast plus of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/2 inches always. The above from A-A to D gives you the proto
1
E
E
V
is
6 1/2 inches below E.
is
.
llVi.
in.
-16'^'\.
in.
111/2
in.
G
is
the
full length.
to E-1 is the waist depression.
half way between E and E-1. a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1. G-1 is the same distance from G as E-2 is
Draw
is
from E.
Draw
a line from E-2 to G-1 and tind point F-1 on line F.
D-1 toD-2 D-2 to D-3
114 inch. the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. The proportions for the blade measure
is
8'/2 inches.
to
to
E-2
portions for the strap measure which is 111/. inches in this case. I'rom A to D gives you the proportions for
A
.
Square out from D, E, F and G.
-^
the .scye depth, which in this case
Blade Overshoulder Strap
in.
Collar size 14V2-
Sciuare
A
:
the waist length 17 inches.
is
is
breast and
54
3I/2
is
I/2
inches from D-1 to D-3.
:
D-4
is
D-5
is 11/2
way between D-3 and
half
Shape back of arm scye from 4
D-1.
inch in from D-4.
8
A-1 to A-2
Square up from D-5. D-6 D-7
% % of an inch below D-3.
is
Draw
a line from D-3 to D-7 and from D-5 to
D-6.
Draw D-8
from D-6 to D-7. inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch. a line
is
1
D-9 is one half breast out from D-1. D-10 is half way between D-1 and D-9. D-2 to D-11 is one half the breast measure. E-1 to E-3 is 2 inches. E-3 to E-4 is one half the waist measure. D-3 to D-12 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314, inches in this case.
to 1 is
breast plus
Vf!
Square up from
1 inch.
1.
D-D to X is VÂŤ breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to locate point Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14
2.
inch out from 3 to get point 4. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less of an inch.
inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1 as diagram. Shape from A to 2. 7 is half way between 3 and D-6. 8 is of an inch out from 7. Square a line from D-9 down to bottom of coat which locates point E-5 at waist and F-2
THE COLLAR. Measure the
full size of
neck hole, which
in
%
8 1/2 inches, and deduct of an inch for seams which gives you a neck hole of 7'; j, inches and draft as follows this case
at hip. is 11/2
inch.
coat.
%
is 1
1/2
A-4 is 1% inches from A-3. Shape your front as diagram. The overshoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for a regular sack
is 1/2
F-2 to F-3 E-5 to E-6
breast plus
get point A-3.
%
6
i/f)
and from
â&#x20AC;˘?'!.
Square up from D-12 to get A-1.
A
is
to 7
to bottom.
Square out from A-2. D-11 to D-13 is li/t inch for center of front. E-4 to E-9 is 114 inch for center of front. Square down from E-9 to locate points F-6 and G-3. Draw a line from E-9 thru D-13 and up. D-13 to D-14 is 1% inches for stand. E-9 to E-10 is 1% inches for stand. G-3 to G-4 is of an inch. G-3 to G-5 is 21/4. inches. F-6 to F-7 is 21/2 inches. Measure off your seat plus li/> inch for ease from F-7. Draw a line from G-2 to G-5. Draw a line from E-10 thru G-4 down. Draw a line from E-10 up thru D-14. Shape neck from A-1 to front of coat as diagram. Measure your back from A to 2 and apply this amount at A-1 and measure front of neck from A-1 down half the collar size plus 114 inch for seams and make up to
of an inch below D-5.
is
down thru D-9
inch.
is
Draw a straight line from A. A to B is the collar size 7% inches.
inch.
Shape from D-9 to E-5 thru F-3 and down. Shape from D-9 to E-6 thru F-2 and down. E-7 is half way between E-6 and D. Square down from E-7 to get point F-4 on
A half the collar size or inches to C. Square out from C and down from B to get point D. Square down from 3y}{
line F.
D to E is the width of collar 1% inches. A to F is the width of collar 1% inches.
F-4 to F-5 is IV4 inch. E-8 is 1 inch in front of E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 and down to E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 down thru E-8 and
Square out from F as diagram. Place your collar size on point
F-5.
D
and
line
F
to get point G.
G the width of collar to get H. Drav.- a line from H to E and shape the collar as diagram. This finishes the draft.
Measure your back length from E-7 to bottom and apply this measure at E-8 down
Square up from
to get point G-2.
Shape arm scye from 6 down thru D-8 to bottom as diagram.
55
REGULAR CHESTERFIELD OVER COAT WITH FLY FRONT
The measurements are as follows Breast
Waist Waist depression
40
in. in.
Scye depth ._ 914 Waist length 17 '.j
in.
:]()
2
in.
Full length
in.
56
-42
in.
:-
12 1/4. Blade Overshoulder -18 '4. Strap 121/2
in. in.
in.
Square down and out from A.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down.
A A A D
Shape from
to
B
is
Vii
to
C
is
the scye depth.
C-7
is
one half breast out from C-2.
to
D
is
the waist length.
C-8
is
314 inches out from C-7.
breast plus
â&#x20AC;˘' |.
of an inch.
E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Sciuare out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1.
D-1 to D-4
to
B
a line from D-2 to
C-1 to C-2 is
C-2 to C-3
is
11/4.
Draw
Draw 1 is
to locate C-1.
Draw
Square up from half
C-4
is
C-5
is 11/2
1
G
Draw Draw
C-1 and C-3.
to locate D-3.
Ji.
of an inch.
to the front.
amount from D-1
to
from
V\.
inch back of 6 to D-7.
a line from D-7 to E-2.
inch,
a line from D-7 thru E-3 down, and
shape as diagram.
is
is
half the
is
a line
11/,,
Draw
1%. inch below C-5.
D-7 to F-3
is
the same as from D-7 to F-2.
Draw
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape. A-3 is 114. inch in front of A-1. The roll is 10i/> inches below line A-2.
notch.
C-6
breast plus
Shape from D-7 thru E-2 down as diagram. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus
inch from C-4.
1%. inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
G-1
Ij!
D-2.
inch in from A.
Square up and down from C-5 E-2 and F-2. is
is
Shape the neck from A-1
to locate 2.
way between
H.
a line from D-6 thru H-2.
D-3 to D-7 1
to locate
Square out from A-2.
inch up from X.
breast measure plus
one half the waist measure. 314 inches.
a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
A-1 to A-2
a line from X-1 to A.
Vf!
2 inches.
H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch.
F-1.
the blade measure.
1
is
down.
Square down from D-6
inch.
Vk breast plus
is
is
D-5 to D-6
Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1
is
D-4 to D-5
Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and
Draw
6
one half the width of back from C-5
Draw
to C-2 in front of C-3.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3. Measure up on the line drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is -Vj. of an inch in front of C-5. Shape from 4 to V|. inch in front of C-5. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
a line
from the bottom of
roll
thru A-3
up.
A-4 A-5
is
2%
is
% of an inch below A-4.
inches in front of crease
line.
Draw
a line from A-1 back for collar stand the same amount plus 1/2 inch as from A to 2 to get point A-6. Square up from A-6 thru crease line. Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the balance of collar as diagram. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch
"''1
on broken
lines.
The arm scye measure is 21i/_> inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from G to locate the
'/â&#x20AC;˘;
inch.
8 is V2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1.
back sleeve notch at X-X. This finishes the draft.
57
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
DOUBLE BREASTED BOX BACK OVERCOAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR
The measurements are as Breast
Waist \A'aist
depression
follo\vs
40 36
in.
Scye depth _. 914 in. Waist length Aiy., in.
2
in.
Full length
in.
45 Seat 41 inches.
58
in.
:
Blade Overshoulder Strap
I2I4
in.
-IS'/j.
in.
121/2 in.
Square down and out from A.
Shape from 8
A A
to
B
is
'/!!
to
C
is
the scye depth.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down.
A
to
is
the waist length.
C-7
is
one half breast out from C-2.
D A
to
D E
is
6 inches.
C-8
is
4%. inches out from C-7.
to
F
is
the
D-1 to D-4
breast plus
full length.
Square out from
D
-'Ki.
of an inch.
E and
C, D,
F.
to D-1 is the waist depression.
D-2
way between D and
half
is
Draw
a line from D-2 to
C-1 to C-2
is 1
C-2 to C-3
is
Draw 1 is
Vi!
Square up from
1
1
half
C-5
is
IV2 inch from C-4.
is
G-1
C-1
and
C-3.
G-2 C-6
a line from
G
14,
inch back of 7 thru E-4
a line
from
14.
inch back of 7 thru E-3
the side seam of back the same length seam of fore part to get F-3.
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as dia-
A-3
is
The
roll is
114 inch in front of A-1. 14 inches below line A-2.
a line from bottom of roll thru A-3 up.
is 1
inch below A-4.
a line from A-1 back for the collar stand the same amount as from A to 2 plus 1/2 inch to get A-6.
Square up 4 inches from A-6 on opposite side of crease line to get A-7.
to locate 3. â&#x20AC;˘;
Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the collar as diagram. Apply over shoulder measure as
|.
on
our
Chesterfield overcoat measure, the
arm
scye and locate sleeve notch the same. 6 inches from the edge when coat is finished and 6 inches apart. This finishes the draft.
The buttons are
inch.
inch below
to the front.
Draw
%
is 1/2
inches.
Draw
from 2 thru 3 extending of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-16 breast up from G. Square out of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Shape from 4 to l^ inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/-.
8
to get A-4.
inch.
a line from
% of an inch.
gram.
Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3, measure up on the hne drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch.
B
breast plus
is 31/2
A-5
to
is V)i
is 11/2
Draw
to 2.
from A-1
a line from D-6 thru H-2.
E-3 to E-4
to G-1.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1.
line
inch.
as side
one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3.
line
2 inches.
E-2 toE-3
Make
is
Draw a Draw a
is 1
dowh.
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch.
A
is
H-2
Draw
1
Shape from
H-1
to
down.
1% inch below C-5. 1% inch below C-3. is
to
Draw
is
Draw
a line from D-6 up thru C-8.
Shape the neck from A-1
Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 and F-2.
G
inches.
Square out from A-2
to locate 2.
way between
is
D-6
A-1 to A-2
inch in from A.
C-4
4%
to
Draw
inch up from X.
a line from X-1 to A.
breast phis
one half the waist measure.
is
H H
to locate X. 1
is
D-5
Square down from D-6 to locate H.
inch.
Va breast plus
is
2 inches.
D-4 to D-5
Draw
D-1.
to locate C-1.
the blade measure.
Square up from C-3 X-1
B
is
to A-1.
5.
59
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
BALMACANN OVERCOAT WITH MILITARY COLLAR
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist depression
40 36
Scye depth __ Waist length 17
91
in.
in.
to
B
is
to
C
is
to
to
D E
to
F
is
is is
the waist length.
A
"ji.
X
of an inch
6 inches.
the
full
length.
E
to
1
is
i/ji
plus
1
inch.
Square up from 1 to locate 2. Shape from A to 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1.
and
F.
C-4 to C-5
half way between D and D-1. a line from D-2 up to B to lorat C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure.
is 1 1/0
inch.
Square up from C-5. Square down from C-5 to locate E-1. Square down from C-3 to locate E-2. G is l-'i inches below C-5. G-1 is P'l inches below C-3.
is
Draw
in.
the scye depth.
breast plus
to D-1 is the waist depression.
D-2
Blade 121,4 Overshoulder -18 14 Strap 121/2
in.
|.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
â&#x20AC;˘/!{
Square out from C, D,
D
:
Full length __38 in. Seat 41. Collar size 15 14.
2 in.
Square down and out from A.
A A A D A
follows
;'-!.
60
in.
inin.
â&#x20AC;˘
Draw
a line from G to G-l. inches below G. is 21/2 inches below G-l. Draw a line from G-3 to G-4. G-5 is half way between G-3 and G-4. of an inch in front of G-5. G-6 is of an inch back from G-5. G-7 is Draw a line from G-6 down thru E-2 to cate F-1.
G-3 G-4
Draw a line from 2 to 5. Square out to 4 from line 2 and 5 which gives you point 11.
is 21/0
11 to 12 is
%
i5^4.
lo-
a line from G-7 down thru El to locate F-2. U-6 IS one half the width of the back from 0-0 to C-Z ni iront of U-3. bquare up trom o-b to locate A-1.
Draw
O.
Measure from A-5 Measure from
1/2
inch below
Measure from 8
arm
2 for the back sleeve
arm
to
G-6 for the back under
length.
Measure the distance from 12
to 4 and from 10 to 7 for full shoulder width. Cut the pattern thru at G-6 and F-1 and paste a piece of paper on the fore part,
6.
then lay your pattern together the same as before and trace off the amount from G-7 to F-2.
8.
This finishes the draft.
is
THE MILITARY COLLAR. Measure the neck from A to 2 and from
3 inches for regular collar. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. D-3 to D-4 is one half the waist measure. D-4 to D-5 is 2 inches for military collar or 3 inches for regular collar.
to
A-3 which :
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
A
B
Square down from D-5 to locate H. to H-1 is 2 inches. to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-5 down thru H-2. Draw a line from D-5 up thru C-8. Shape from F to F-1.
A
Make
the side seam of the forepart the same as from G-6 down on back part, and shape out to H-1. A-1 to A-2 is i/fj breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure the distance from A to 2 and apply the amount at A-1 and measure down half the neck size plus I14. inch to A-3. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down the front. Draw a line from 8 to G-7 and shape. Draw a line from 5 to G-6 and shape. A-5 is 1/2 inch below A-1. Draw a line from A-5 to 8.
Square
Square back to 7 from gives you point 9.
Shape from G to H-1 and D. Shape from G-l to H-2 and F-1. Shape from G-2 to H-3 and F-2.
9 to 10
is 1/2
to
is
the collar size 9 inches.
Square down from B. A to C is one half the collar size and B to D is the same. Draw a line from C to D.
D
to
E
is 11/2
in
G
inch.
is the collar size 9 inches. a line from D to G and square up
to locate G-l.
to F-1 is 11/2 inch.
Draw
H
is
a line from G-l to F-1. half way between D and G.
Square up from H. H to H-1 is 14 inch. H-1 to H-2 is 11/2 inch. Square up from G-l. G-l to G-2 is 21/:. inches. H-2 to H-3 is 21/2 inches. F-1 to F-2
inch.
is 21/2
inches.
This finishes the draft.
to 8.
61
inches
from E.
Square up from D.
D
4i/j
G
to
Draw
A-5 and 8 which
Shape from A-5 thru 10 down
A-1
in this case is 9 inches.
Draft as follows Square out and down from A.
H H
line
under
to G-7 for the front
length.
Measure from
one half breast out from C-2. C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches for a military collar or C-7
to
height.
inch.
Shape from 7 to A-1. 8 is 1 inch up from G-l. Shape from 7 down thru
to 8 for the front sleeve
height.
i^raw a nne from A-i to H to locate 3. Draw a line from z thru 3 extending i/o of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 5 is i/i inch in from C-5. Shape from 4 down thru 5. A-1 to 6 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 7 to
inch.
1/2
Shape from 2 thru 12 and down to 5. Measure the arm scye which is 221/2 inches and come up from G 14 the arm scye measure for the back sleeve notch to point X-X and square back to get point
frojii
RAGLAN SLEEVE OVERCOAT WITH CONVERTIBLE COLLAR
The measurements are as
follows:
40
in.
Scye depth _^
Waist 36 Waist depression 2
in.
Waist length 17
in.
in.
Full length -_40
in.
Breast
Seat 41.
Collar size 15i/j.
Square down and out from A.
r-2
A
to
B
Draw
A A D A
to
C
to
D E is
to
F
breast plus of an inch. is the scye depth. is the waist length.
is
'
!(
'}/[.
way between D and
half
is
a line
from D-2
to
B
D-1.
to locate C-1.
C-1 to C-2
is
1
C-2 to C-3
is
the blade measure.
inch.
Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
6 inches.
the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. to
I2I4. Blade Overshoulder -ISi/t Strap 121/2
in.
9i/i.
is
'
!i
1 is
62
1/h
breast plus
1
inch in from A.
in. in. in.
Square up from C-4
is
C-5
is
half
way between
is
G-1
C-1 and C-3.
G-2
Measure from A to 2 and place the amount on A-1 and measure half the collar size
E-2
to locate
plus 11/2 inch
1% inches below C-5. is 1% inches below C-3.
Draw
G
a line from
is
1
to G-1.
is
of an inch in front of A-1.
A-6
is "'a
of an inch in front of A-5.
The
roll is 11
Draw
one half the width of back from C-5
A
Shape from
to 2.
B
1/2
a line from A-7 to the crease line at the top of lapel.
Shape
% of an inch from 6 to locate to
14.
inch in front of
K 7.
8
6.
K-2
inch below
5.
C-8
is
inch below A-1.
V-i
a line from
K
to G-2.
is
1/2
inch out from K-1.
K to K-2 and G-2 as diagram. a line from 2 to C-5. Square out from line 2 and C-5 back to which gives you K-3.
from
is
2 inches.
D-4 to D-5
is
one half the waist measure.
D-5 to D-6
is
3 inches.
Draw
a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-6 down thru H-2. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is 1 8 breast plus Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. E-2 to E-3 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-4 down. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-3 down. Make the side seam of back the same length
regular coat.
K
Measure the distance from
down
to
G-2 for the
to
front
K-2 and shoulder
height.
Measure the distance from A-1
%
seam of fore part
4
K-3 to K-4 is 1/2 inch. Shape from 2 to K-4 and C-5 as diagram. The arm scye measure is 22 inches. Measure up 14 the arm scye measure from G and square back to locate X-X. Apply over shoulder measure the same as for
C-7.
D-1 to D-4
as the side
diagram.
Draw
one half breast out from C-2. 3 inches out
lapel as
Shape from
to A-1.
Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down. is
and
collar
Square out from line drawn from K to G-2 back to 8, which gives you K-1.
the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
Shape from 8
C-7
is
Draw
inch. is 1/2
col-
stand as diagram.
Draw inch
1-16 breast up from G.
Shape from 4
A -7.
Drop 114 inch below A-7 and shape the
to locate 3.
a line from 2 thru 3 extending out from 3 to get point 4.
is
roll to
a line from A-3 back thru A-5 as dia-
lar
a line from A-1 to
A-1 to 5
from the bottom of the
line
back to foi
regular coat.
Square out
line A-2.
Measure the width of back from A to 2 and apply this amount plus V2 inch from A-1
Apply the strap measure the same as
is
down below
gram.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1.
6
inches
A-6.
to C-2 in front of C-3.
Draw Draw
to get point A-3.
is 5)j
Draw a
inch up from G-1 for front sleeve
down
A-5
notch.
C-6
a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as
diagram.
IV2 inch from C-4
Square up and down from C-5 and F-2.
G
Draw
1 to locate 2.
to 8 for the
front shoulder width.
Measure from K-2
to 8
and from 4
to
K-4 for
shoulder width. Measure from 2 to X-X for the back shoulder
the
full
height.
Measure from 2
to 4 for the
back shoulder
width.
Measure from X-X down to 6 and from 7 around to G-2 for the under arm scye length for sleeve. Ihis finishes the draft.
to get F-3.
63
—
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT
The double breasted frock overcoat is cut the same as a double breasted frock undercoat, except that sizes,
in
measure
this is
:!«
it
is
enlarged three
way the normal breast and
the coat
is
cut 39
l)reast.
The nicasurenients are as Breast Wai.st
Waist depression
39 35
in. in.
2
in.
follows:
Scye dei)th 9 I-IG Waist length _17
in.
in.
Full length ___ 4.5 in. Seat 40. Collar size 16.
{i4
Blade _ 12 Overshoulder -17% Strap 12' I
in.
in.
in
Square down and out from A.
%
Shape from H-1
A A A D
to
B
to
C
to
D is the waist length. E is 2 inches for fashionable
E
to
F
A
to
G
to
breast plus
is i/s
Square down from E-3
the scye depth.
is
F-1 to F-2 waist
to locate F-1.
inch.
is 1/2
Draw
a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5.
6 inches.
the
is
and down thru D-4
is 11/2 inch.
E-3 to E-4
length. is
to C-11
to locate E-3.
of an inch.
full length.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G.
E-4 to G-3
D
Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3.
to
D-1
the waist depression.
is
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. D-2
is
half
E-1 to E-2
is
A-1 to 5
G-1.
the same as from E-2 to G-2.
the same as from 2 to 4 less
is
6 is
inch below
1/2
5.
Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
Shape from
6 to A-1.
C-1 to C-2
Shape from
6
inch.
is 11,4
is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
to 1 is
i/g
breast plus
Square up from C-4 is half C-4 to C-5
1
C-1.
C-t)
to C-2 in front of C-3.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending- V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 1% of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 1% of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve half
the front.
Measure half the neck size plus 11/4 inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get A-3.
D-10 to F-3
way between C-7 and
is
4 inches.
Draw
a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is of an inch above F-3.
3.
%
%
H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5.
C-4.
G-5 to G-6
depression
1-6 breast plus
1
inch.
a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for style.
Shape from A-3 to C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 31/2 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measure are
less V2
inch.
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6.
is
Draw
to lC-2 to
locate D-3.
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the waist
one half breast out from C-2.
%
notch. is
is
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. C-14 to C-15 is 41/2 inches. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to
inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from
H
C-9.
C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. D-9 to D-10 is 31/2 inches.
to locate 2.
way between C-3 and is 11/2
C-12
inch.
1
down thru
Shape from H-1 down.
C-2 to C-3
A
1/2
inch.
breast.
i/a
is
applied the
same as
also the sleeve.
to
This finishes the draft.
65
for regular coat,
:
TUXEDO COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR
The measurements are as Breast
36
in.
Waist 32 Waist depression 2
in. in.
follows
Scye depth __ 81/^ Waist length _17 Full length __30
Seat 37.
66
in. in. in.
Blade llVi. Overshoulder -16''4 Strap 111/2
in. in. in.
Shape from 4
Square down and out from A.
A A A D A
Draw
a line from
B
is i/s
to
C
is
the scye depth.
Shape from D-4 thru E-1 down.
to
is
the waist length.
Shape from 14 inch back of
to
D E
is 6 inches.
to
F
is
breast plus
down thru
full length.
the
D-1
to
D-2
D-3 to F-2
E and
F.
A-1 to 5
the waist depression.
is
way between D and
half
is
Draw a
from D-2
line
B
to
C-2 to C-3
8
is 1/2
is
X
D-5 to D-6
is
Draw
is 1/8
breast plus 1 inch.
a line from X-1 to A.
to 1 is
i/s
plus
Square up from
Shape from half
C-4
is
C-5
is 11/2
A
1
D-6 to D-7
inch.
H H
to 2.
inch in from C-4.
the same as from
C-6
a line
is
E
down thru
from D-4 down
6
Vs breast plus
inch.
front.
114 inch.
Draw
a line from D-7 up thru A-3.
A-4
is
A-1
is
2V2 inches in front of crease line. A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus
1/2
lapel
down
collar
and
to D-7.
Shape from D-7 down. The overshoulder and strap measures are applied the
same as
the sleeve.
breast up from G. of an inch from 6 to locate
is
C-8.
%
inch above G-1 for front sleeve notch.
%
is
i/j
Shape from A-6 to A-7 as diagram. Square up from A-5 and shape the
4.
of an inch below C-5.
Square out
a line
2 inches.
from D-7 up thru
Square down I14 inch from A-5 to locate A-6. of an inch below A-4. A-7 is
a line from G-1 to G.
is 1-6
is
C-2.
inch.
G-1.
is 1
is
from F-2 to H-1. line from D-7 thru H-2. one half breast out from line
A-1 to A-3
Square down %. of an inch from C-3 to locate
G-2
2 inches.
E-3.
to E-1.
inch out from 3 to get point
Draw
2 inches.
is
to E-2 plus
one half the width of the back from
%
inch.
Square out from A-2. Shape from A-1 to the
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an
is
11/2
is
A-1 to A-2
C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3.
G
is
H-2
Draw
% of an inch. a line from D-3
one half the waist measure.
H-1
C-7 to C-8
Square down from D-2 to locate E-2. D-3 to D-4 is the same as from D-1 to D-2.
Draw Draw
2 inches.
to
C-7
E-1 and F-1.
is
G-2 and down.
to
Draw a Draw a
C-3 and C-1.
Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3,
E-1 to E-3
to A-1. to
Square down from D-7 to locate H.
1 to locate 2.
way between
5.
Shape from 7 down. D-1 to D-5
X-1
the same as from D-4 to F-1.
inch below
Square up from C-3 to locate X. to
D-3 and
7 to
E-3.
the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
is
Shape from 8 Shape from 8
to locate C-1.
the blade measure.
is
is
i/i.
inch.
D-1.
is ll/i inch.
C-1 to C-2
A
inch back of 7 to D-4.
to
Square out from C, D,
D
% of an inch.
to 14 inch in front 6.
This finishes the draft.
7.
67
for sack coat, also
CUTAWAY FROCK
The measurements are as
follows:
38
in. in.
Seye depth __ 8i/> Waist length 17
in.
Waist 32 Waist depression 2
in.
Full length
in.
Breast
__38
Seat 39.
68
in.
Blade Overshoulder Strap
lH/i. in. -IG'Vj.
in.
111/2 in.
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6.
Square down and out from A.
A A
to
B
to
C
A D
to
D
to
E
%
Vs breast plus the scye depth.
is
is is
Draw
of an inch.
Shape from C-10
down
the waist length.
is
to
A
to
F
G
is
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square
6 inches.
is
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is i/s breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
out.
G-3 to G-4 is one half the waist measure or 16 inches. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure.
C-1 to C-2 is IV4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. to X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
X
to 1 is
Vf!
breast plus
Square up from
1
C-12 to C-13 is 214 inches. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to -8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Draw a line from G-4 up to D-9. F-3 is 3% inches below D-9. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less
inch.
1 to locate 2.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. of an inch below C-5. C-7 is of an inch below C-3. C-8 is Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
6
is
%
is 1-6
Shape from
C-4.
breast in front of C-2.
H
to C-11
and down
to E-2 to
F-4
lo-
Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure D-5
is
is 1/2
inch below F-3.
skirt from E-4 to F-4. The over shoulder and strap measure is plied the same as for regular coat. The collar is also drafted the same.
less
1/2
inch. to
5.
Shape the
cate D-3.
D-4
V2 inch below
%
notch.
half way between C-7 and 3. of an inch out from H. H-1 is Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and
is
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 thru C-9 down. Shape from H-1 down. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The bottom of roll is 11 inches down from A-2 line. Draw a line from bottom of roll to A-3. A-4 is 21/1. inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front down as diagram. Draw a line from F-3 to E-6.
% %
C-11
1/2
inch.
to C-2 in front of C-3.
H
D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 and E-6.
to locate E-3.
the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression.
A
to
to locate E-5
Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
IV2 inch for fashionable waist
length.
E
a line from C-10 to D-5.
i/i-
This finishes the draft.
waist.
69
ap-
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK
The measurements are as follows Breast
:-
38
in.
Blade
1134
in.
in.
Scye depth __ Sys Waist length 17
in.
Waist 34 Waist depression 2
in.
Over shoulder nV->
in.
in.
Full length __42
in.
Strap
'n.
Seat 39.
Neck
70
size 15.
12
Square
CLERICAL FROCK
The measurements are as Breast
36
in.
Waist 32 Waist depression 2
in.
Scye depth __ 8V2 Waist length 17 Full length __38 Seat 37. Collar size
in.
Square down and out from A.
A to B is Va breast plus of A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. -Yi.
D
to
E
is
11/2
inch
for
follows :â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
an
inch.
fashionable
E
to
A
to
in.
Blade
II14
in.
in.
Over shoulder
16%
in.
'n.
Strap
111/2 in-
141/..
F G
is
6 inches.
the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. is
D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1.
waist
length.
iz
Draw
a line from E-1 to
E-1 to E-2
is
Vfi
Square down from E-2 C-1 to C-2
is 11/4
C-2 to C-3
is
B
6
to locate C-1.
is
1/2
inch below
5.
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru Shape from H-1 down.
breast. to locate G-2.
inch.
the blade measure.
C-12
is
one half breast out from C-2.
Square up from C-3 to locate X.
C-12 to C-13
is 11/4
inch.
X
C-13 to C-1 4
is 11/2
inch.
X-1
to
Draw
A
is
Va breast plus 1 inch.
D-1 to D-7
a line from X-1 to A.
to 1 is Vg breast plus 1 inch.
Square up from
1
to locate 2.
half way between C-3 and
C-4 is C-4 to C-5
is
to C-2 in front of C-3.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is %. of an inch below C-5. of an inch below C-3. C-8 is
way between
C-7 and 3. H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2.
%
Shape from
H
to C-11
and down
to
E-2
t.-
hi-
cate D-3.
Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure
1V4 inch.
is 11/2
inch.
A-3.
a line from C-7 to C-8. inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
half
is
A-3 to A-4 is 11/4. inch. Shape from A-4 thru C-14 and D-10 down. D-10 to F-3 is 3% inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is %. of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for
is 1
is
D-8 to D-9
front.
notch.
H
one half the waist measure.
Measure half the collar size plus IVi inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
%
C-9
is
Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-14. A-1 to A-2 is 1/8 breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
IV2 inch.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5
Draw
2 inches.
is
D-7 to D-8
D-9 to D-10
C-1.
C-9.
style.
The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat and
less Y2
inch.
D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-0. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
also the sleeve.
THE COLLAR. Measure your neck from A to 2 and from A-1 to A-3 and draft. The neck size is 8I/2 inches.
A A
to locate E-3.
to
B
to
C
is 8I/2
is
inches.
half the neck size or 414 inches.
B
Square out from C and down from
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2
to lo-
cate D.
D A
to
E
to
F
is 11/2 inch. is 11/2
Square
in
D
is
inch.
from
F.
the neck size. G Square up l'/. inch from G to get H. to E. Draw a line from to
H
Shape from gram.
H
to
E and from G
This finishes the draft.
inch.
73
to
D
as dia-
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT
The measurements are as 44
in.
44 Waist Waist depression 2
in.
Breast
in.
Scye depth Waist length
FuU length Seat 45. Neck
74
follows 10
:-
in.
__ 17 in.
41
in.
size 16i/>.
Blade
131/4 in.
Over shoulder
19%
Strap
131/2 in.
in.
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.
Square down and out from A.
A A A
to
B
is Vt!
to
C
is
to
D
to
D is E is IV2
E
to
A
to
breast plus
% of an inch.
the scye depth.
for
F is 6 inches. G is the full length.
Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is Vs breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2.
6
X-1 is i/j! breast plus 1 inch. a line from X-1 to A.
to 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 1 to locate 2.
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to
C-14 to C-15
C-2 in front of C-3.
front.
A-3.
D-10 to F-3
Draw
way between
%
1-6 breast in
H
from C-2. and down
to C-11
F-4
is
is
334 inches.
a line from E-6 to F-3. of an inch above F-3.
%
Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Take out V2 inch V at 20 and 21 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a hne from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for
to E-2 to lo-
cate D-3.
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure
inches.
Measure half the neck size plus ly^, inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get
C-7 and 3. of an inch out from H. H-1 is Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. is
is 31/2
%
notch.
Shape from
C-2.
a line from D-10 up thru C-15. of an inch. A-1 to A-2 is Va breast plus Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the
% %
C-11
5.
Draw
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. of an inch below C-5. C-7 is of an inch below C-3. C-8 is Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve half
inch below
D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4.
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 toC-5is 11/2 inch.
is
is 1/2
C-12 to C-18 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches less I/4. inch for each inch waist is stout. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 11/4, inch.
Square up from
H
inch.
Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from
Draw
A
is 1/2
a line from E-4 thru F-2.
inch.
C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. to
E-3 to E-4
inch.
Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2
waist
fashionable
length.
X
is 11/2
Draw
the waist length. inch
F-1 to F-2
less V2
style.
inch.
Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat,
D-4 to D-5 is 1/4 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from HI to C-11 and down thru D-4
also the sleeve.
This finishes the draft.
to locate E--3.
75
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
FULL DRESS COAT
The measurements are as Breast
Waist Waist depression
Scye depth
in.
Blade
11 1/4.
in.
Waist length 17
in.
Over shoulder
16'!
(,
in.
2 in.
Full length __39
in.
Strap
111/2
in.
C
is
81/j
to
D
is
to
E
is
the normal waist length. for fashionable waist 11/2 inch
length.
the scye depth.
7G
in.
in.
A D
Square down and out from A. A to B is Vn breast plus '% of an inch. to
:
in.
36 32
Seat 39
A
follows
E
to
F
is
A
to
G
is
the
full length.
Square out from
D
Square down from E-3 to locate F-1.
6 inches.
C, D, E,
F and
G.
way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. is
half
is 1/2
Draw
G-1.
E-4 to G-3
the same as from E-2 to G-2.
G-4
is
one half waist.
a line from G-4 up thru D-7 2 inches to get D-8. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. C-12 to C-13 is 2% inches. Measure your waist from D-2 to D-3 and
from D-4 to D-5 and from D-6 out D-9 half the waist measure. D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-13. A-1 to A-2 is i/y breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out
Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 34 of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 3,4 of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve
to
to
the front.
A-1 to A-3
is
11/4 inch.
Draw
a line from A-3 to D-10. A-4 is 1''4. inches in front of the crease line. X-X is 1/4 breast plus V2 inch below the fashionable waist length.
notch.
Draw a X-X to
way between
C-7 and 3. H-1 is of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2.
%
Shape from
H
and down
to
E-2 to
Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure,
less V2
to C-11
from X-X
is 1
to E-6.
inch.
as diagram.
Shape lapel from A-4 out and down thru D-10 to 0. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 6
inch. is
line
Shape from D-7 down to G-2 as diagram. Take out gore at side body from D-8 down
locate D-3.
D-4 to D-5
to E-5.
breast.
Draw
C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch.
half
is
14,
out.
G-3 to
to 1 is y^ breast plus 1 inch. 1 to locate 2.
is
is
Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square
Square up from
H
inch. inch.
from E-4
a line
D-6 to D-7
E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A.
A
is 11/2
E-3 to E-4
Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down.
to D-1 is the waist depression.
D-2
F-1 to F-2
is
1/2
inch below
5.
from 6 to A-1. from 6 down thru C-9. from H-1 down. over shoulder and strap measure the same as for regular sack coat. Shape the skirt from E-4 to the front. Shape Shape Shape Apply
14 waist.
Square down from C-10 to locate D-6.
Draw
a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-G. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4
This finishes the draft.
to locate E-3.
77
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
FULL DRESS CAPE
The measurements 40 36 Waist Waist depression 2
Breast
are as follows:
in.
Scye depth -- 914 Waist length 17
in.
Full length
in.
GOWN
_36
in.
Blade
I214
in.
in.
Over shoulder 1814
in-
in.
Strap
121/2 in.
Collar size 16 inches.
IE 78
Square down and out from A.
Square out from
5.
A
to
B
is
Va breast plus 34 of
A
to
C
is
the scye depth.
Draw
A
to
D
is
the waist length.
Square down from
A
to
E
an
inch.
5 to 6
the full length.
is
D-1
to
D-2
half
is
Draw
2 to 8
B
to
C-1 to C-2
is 1
C-2 to C-3
is
C-4
is
way between
C-5
is 11/2
C-6
is
D-1.
the blade measure.
E
plus IV2
is
breast plus ^^ of an inch.
i/fi
Shape from 9
to 2
2 to A-2
inch.
is 1/2
A-2
one halt the width of back from C-2 to
A-3
to
one half breast out from C-2.
C-8
is
3 inches out
and from
arm
A
to 2.
of square on points
C
A-3 to A-4
C-7.
A-3 to A-5
Square down from C-6 to get D-3.
the same as from A-2 to E.
is
E
Shape from
is
9.
and A-2 and square out from A-2.
inch in front of C-4.
C-7
inch from 7 to get 12.
li/j
Place the short
C-1 and C-3.
C-5 in front of C-3.
D-4
6.
Square out from 8 to get
to locate C-1.
inch.
from
6 thru 4.
inch.
way between D and from D-2
to D-6.
the same as from 5 to
is
Square back
a line
half
from
the waist depression.
is
same as from D-3
the
a line
6 to 7
Square out from C and D.
D
is
to A-3.
10 inches.
is
10 inches.
is
Shape from 12
to A-3.
2 inches in front of D-1.
is
A-2 to X-X D-4 to D-5
is
is
1-3 breast.
one half the waist measure.
Draw
D-5 to D-6
is
A
breast plus
a line from
X-X
to
A-4 and from X-X
3 inches. to A-5.
to 1 is
i/a
Square up from
1
inch.
Shape from A-2 thru X-X down as diagram 1.
to
A-4 and A-5.
Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. A-1 to
Draw
X
line
is
from
2 to 5
is is
X
to A-1 to locate 2.
B
thru 2 up.
from
A
X-2 to X-3
plus
to
I14
inch
is
A-2 and around to get X-2.
1%
inches.
Shape from X-3 down the front
the scye depth.
Square out from 3 to 4
collar size
Vs breast plus 1 inch.
a line from
Draw a 2 to 3
Measure half the is
to 12.
Cut the pattern out and take out the amount
3.
from A-3
the same as from C-6 to C-8.
to
A-4 and A-5 up to X-X.
This finishes the draft.
the waist length.
79
p CD
r > n