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KENNEDY'S PATENT OUTLINER, &S®S)®@®®®®®®®®@®®^)®S>®®®S&S>(S)®&S>®@®^^
T
T
THE IJGienee
of
Coat and Vest Catting CONTRINING
Notes and Explanations OIF
KENNEDY'S Patent Outliner IFOR.
DRAFTING COATS AND VESTS v^ith:
Diagrams
of
the Different Garments
AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION FOR THE CUTTER
HEKRY
G.
KENNEDY
Published by the Author.
,
n
')
<t.
^
PREFACE. '
pN iL
placing
work before the
this
accuracy and rapidity with
>tC
fraternity
common
'
I
have endeavored to combine simplicity,
sense, omitting
all
superfluous matter and avoid-
ing mere theories, giving only those principles which have been tested with the most satisfactory results
by
cutters of
The Outlincr has been
my
known
ability.
the result of fifteen years' constant experiment, during which time
is
constant aim to perfect a system of cutting that would
the cutter to a minimum, and at the same time enable him fitting
garments without the aid of
The diagrams
test
knowledge
to acquire a thorough
In conclusion,
I
the Outliner, rendered
was worked
of the
turn
reduce the labor of out
the
most perfect
measures or notes of any kind.
working of the Outliner have been prepared
illustrating the practical
with the view of enabling those cutters
to
it
who cannot
take advantage of personal instructions
System by a few hours study of the work.
have to thank those cutters who, during the experimental stage of
mc much
valuable assistance by practically testing each point as
out, thus insuring the
complete success which has crowned
my
efforts.
it
Believ-
ing that this system will prove a boon to the experienced cutter, as well as to the young
man
just starting out,
I
respectfully submit
it
to the consideration of the trade.
H. G.
'^^A ^3-^P
KENNEDY.
DESCRIPTION OF
Kennedy's Patent Outliner. ><
ÂŤ
THE PRINCIPLE. The Outliner
is
a combination
scales, so
of
arranged
as
to
produce
points for any size or style of coat and vest, in from eight to ten seconds. all
other systems
known
to the trade.
sary changes in the draft for the most
It
fits
all
awkward form without any
the cutter.
draw on
experience or judgment for
its
It
necessary
from
differs
forms with equal ease, making the neces-
In other words, no matter what form of draft
his
the
is
work of
variation in the
desired, the cutter has not to
production, but simply to follow the directions
as given for drafting a proportionate coat.
The plan apply them that the
name
of drafting rests wholly on the measures, all
and the Outliner enables us to so
the points are arrived at without the aid
implies, the points are
construction
of
produced on the outlines of the garment
lines,
direct.
or,
It
is
as
not
necessary to find a square or angle in order to produce the circle of a scye or curve of a gorge.
Each point
is
independent, so that should a mistake be
not affect the others, but will immediately
i
show
itself
made
in
any point
it
does
and may be corrected when forming.
i
t
GENIUS AND TASTE. >4
GENIUS
consists in the
priateness of in his profession
In the
first
power
C
of executing.
symmetry and beauty.
The
'
in
cutter
who aims
has every iiulucenient to exercise
place, he should aim to
produce
the power to judge of the appro-
Taste
all
secure
the genius and
a perfect fitting
plished to his satisfaction, which the Outliner will
to
draft.
the
place
he possesses.
taste
When
first
this
is
accom-
enable him to do, he will have secured
a basis on which to work out the ideal of beauty he desires. In
many
instances good
draft before you,
good
taste
will
taste will suggest
not
demand an accurate
where to add on or take
fit,
but
with
off so as to
appearance of your customer by giving style to the garment without endangering
a
correct
improve the its
balance.
i
^ JUDGMENT. â&#x20AC;˘
A
:>
*
C
'
good many cutters have a great deal to say about using judgment consider that
if
a rule will draft to
fit
every form they
will
in
have very
drafting,
and
use for
little
the exercise of this faculty.
However employ
all
perfect the science of cutting
the judgment he possesses.
of the customer's taste,
that will
rrot
and
prejudice his
order to lessen or enlarge called
upon
to
use his
it
own it
is
may
cutter
His profession makes
it
will
have to
generally
necessary for him to judge
always good policy to comply with his wishes to a degree
reputation.
He must
to insure the correct size,
judgmentâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; notwithstanding
knowledge of the science of
be, the
cutting.
^
judge of the
and the
in
he
to
cut
in
numerous other ways he
will
be
fact
that
fabric
he
is
may have
a
perfect
EXERCISE TACT.
pT
has been said that tact consists
iL
stances.
members
may
It
made about
facts,
younger
the
These disparaging remarks excite a natural indignation
his work.
who has
make
a proper sense of what
the offender understand that he
and that he has made
a
is
due
and
it,
the
But instead
to his self-respect.
be to restrain
in
in a
courteous
laboring under a misapprehension as to the
is
To do
a mistake.
is
and sometimes, the aggravating remarks that
as to the unfair criticisms,
of every one
to
circum-
to
dealing with the average customer
in
of giving expression to this feeling, our object should
way
adapt our conduct
to
not be amiss to address a few words on this subject to
who has had some experience
cutter
competent witness
mind
skill
of the profession.
The
are
having the
in
this,
and
same time
at the
to avoid offend-
ing your customer, will call for the exercise of tact.
community there
In every
are
certain
subject of style in dress.
Occasionally
offered.
happen that
It
As
fully.
will
n(Jt
a rule,
if
often
you can explain
it
may
)'ou
be good
do
tiiiist
so,
an agreeable
in
and what you know to be the correct
individuals
style,
who have
peculiar
policy to accept wlien
but
way the
your customer
Every man who
po.s.sesses
good
you
If
taste desires
you
to
him.
Do
thing
that
on the
suggestions
between
difference
it
his
grace-
views
be persuaded to accept your
will
own
trade.
be not only well dressed, but also
will ascertain
what
is
the taste of each customer
know, when necessary, how to modify or change the style
will
the
you must, do
opinion, and will learn to respect your superior knowledge concerning your
according to the prevailing mode.
ideas
for
the
season, to suit
not allow him to leave your store with the impression that he has ordered some-
he
does
to give
him
a
details,
you
will
not
altogether
garment that
will
like,
if
please him, well
accomplish your object,
your work to each one of
but
his friends.
viz.:
to
you convince
made and
him that
is
your aim
carefully finished in the minute
make him disposed
to
recommend you and
Thus every garment you send out
tisement that will bring you new customers.
it
will
be an adver-
t
IMPORTANCE OF THE PROFESSION.
you have a proper conception of the importance of your profession,
it
will
be j-our
I,;F
ambition to attain to the perfection which
is tlie
reward, as well as the result, of careful
attention to every detail connected with your business, and
you
will
have earned a reputation as a master
bring you a definite yearly income,
munity
-*-
in
in
in
in
the
course
of
a
few years
your special department of trade that
will
proportion to the numbers and wealth of the com-
which you are carrying on business.
t
MEASURING.
'
T
IIS
is
taken
produce
the most important part in
a perfect-fitting
Because attribute the in
this particular.
cutters,
blame of
If
of
> <
'
successful cutting, and
too
much
care
cannot be
you do not have the correct measures, how can you
garment? as
a
rule,
are
a badly-fitting
not
careful
garment
enough
to the system,
measuring would have produced the most gratifying
in
taking
whereas
results.
the
measures,
they
a little care exercised
There
is
no necessitj- to
take an unreliable* measure. Personal instructions are desirable, but not indispensable.
The explanations given
are so complete that
you cannot
fail
to understand them.
10
i
UNNATURAL
POSITIONS.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Âť<'-
T"T
1
is
a well
known
unnatural position.
as a rule,
it
fact
that
many gentlemen, when about
The majority
would be useless to
not standing naturally, you
may
call
will straighten
to be measured,
assume an
up and swell out the chest.
While,
the attention of your customer to the fact that he
is
get him to do so by placing your hands in a gentle man-
ner on his shoulders, preparatory to taking his measure, and
the latter fact by a reference to the weather, or
11
some other
diverting
his
attention
interesting topic.
from
CUTTING.
q^IlKRK (
I
)
are a few rules that should be obser\'eci in cuttintr:
Make up your mind
to
blame no one but yourself
for a mis-fit, or an
aw kward-
lookinjr garment.
(2)
Cut every piece the
(3)
Let the cur\e Of one piece
e.\act length for its position.
fall
to invite the shears of the
(4)
gracefully into the curve
of another, so as not
journeyman.
Avoid, as much as possible, force work, such as holding on, shrinking, stretching, etc.
(You can
fit
better without such work, and the garment
will
keep
its
easy, graceful
appearance much longer.)
-J-
J.
A LAST
WOU
WORD BEFORE COMMENCING TO
can confidently trust that the Outliner
ing shoulders, figure; therefore let
fit
equally well
the long neck and slop-
neck and high shoulders, the crooked back, corpulent or lean
short
me
will
DRAFT.
urge _\ou not to de\iate from
Depend wholly on your measures and the In changing from one
method
it
Oiittiiicr for
for an\- form.
the fitting of
all
garments.
to another, a great man\- cutters are apt to think
this
or that ought not to be so, and change a point here and a point there before giving the
new
method
a fair trial.
cutter will be guided is
claimed for
make one
it
As
a
consequence, they seldom obtain satisfactor\-
by the following
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; always
instructions, he will
find
this
results.
Now
system to bp
all
if
the that
remembering that the mere possession of an arithmetic does not
a mathematician.
13
-*-
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS FOR MEN'S COATS.
TABLE 01tMl*(i^'ORriONS Hv
if
V *
for
BOYS' and YOUTHS' COATS.
TAYLOR.
Ul'I'KK SllOLI.DEK
MkASUKK.
Lower Suoui.dek Measure.
16 i
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
.1
DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING.
""AKE measures over the
'
vest,
For the
except for overcoats.
I
* ures,
over the body coat, or add two inches to the shoulder, breast, waist and if
seat
meas-
taken over the coat.
Make
mark one inch below height
a
Measure from point
part of waist.
at
say
2,
25,
shown by Figure
of
collar
desired,
neck to waist and
shoulder measure from point at neck around Figure
measure
take the
latter,
full
and also
Icntjth,
say
at
i6, 28.
hollowest
Take upper
under the arm to same place as shown by
and lower shoulder from center of back around arm to center of back, as say
3,
Mea.sure
25.
for
sleeve
from center of back to elbow and
by placing square under the arm and measuring to hand, say
length, or
the
ig,
full
Breast
31.
measure, say 36; waist, 32; seat, ^6%.
Sack coat measure
\%
yA As
put
down
16
as taken above:
28
25
25
19
36
31
cases
Vest:
19
12^
3'
iS 16
3
13
25
where the cutter has not taken a shoulder measure
|
25
suppression.
obtained for a proportionate form by dividing the breast measure by inch, thus:
13
Vest,
16
In
36>^;
for drafting:
28
2%
32
36
i2X'A=\2y2
17
the 3
latter
can
and adding
in
be Vj
t
t
TO TAKE SUPPRESSION MEASURE.
r^LACE *
would be
sidebody
in
To apply
Thus, 3^^ inches
2.
2.'H-
Measure
up center of back.
hollowest part of waist.
divide by 2
straight edge
this to drafting,
neck and
in at
in
I
'4
neck to
at
shirt
collar;
also
at
add both measures together and
'n at waist
would make 4^, divided by
This would be the amount of suppression as taken out between back and
skirt coats, or
between back and side seam nine inches below waist measure
on sacks. In cases
where the cutter has
neck point to natural
waist, the
to
same
work on old measures, using the long balance from result
may
be obtained by adding two inches to the
balance measure and subtracting from the amount obtained of back through shoulder point
to
natural
waist, or
where no balance measure has been
taken, by referring to proportion scales for suppression.
19
by measuring pattern from top
c3^ RsitioH
/5i PcUiop,
I
I
IJ
I
I
I
I
I
2^ Po^itiun ,
TllKKE rosITIOiNS
I
I
I
Ol''
I
!)
^
OUTI.IMCK.
20
T
T
t -*-
TO USE THE OUTLINER.
Always Draft bv
Lower Shoulder Measure.
one-hali- of
TO FIND SHOULDER GORGE AND SCVE POINTS OF ANY COAT OR VEST. Commence by
placing Oiitliner on back
Square across top and mark points A.
Mark point 2d. V.
and
G.,
3d.
and
at
Place
O
in
first
position.
C, using lower shoulder measure, say
corner of Outliner on D. point.
lower shoulder
13.
Mark
line
point
to C.
line D.
H.
Square by
N.
Mark
points E.
P.
line
H.
P.
B.,
Mark
and from A. to C, and make
Round up shoulder one-half
as shown, from C. through E. F. and G. to B.
inch.
points
Hollow shoulder seam
to complete draft, refer to directions for style of coat desired.
21
line
L
Form gorge L through
slightly.
Now
13.
I.
13.
from point L through
same width as from A.
Square by
point at H. and draw line to
Place * corner of Outliner on
Now draw Form scyc
B.
shown
D. and draw line to corner, N.
lower shoulder measure,
J.,
line, as
of
H. J.
back
t
MORNING COATS.
3
SACK COATS. Vest, i6
18
19
28
16
25
18^ Find shoulder scye and gorge points as directed on page inch always;
I
to 2
5
is
J^
6
is
yi breast measure from
is
J^
inch from
Square down to
Form 8
is
3
is
natural waist from
down from
measure and
inches from 8 and
is
breast and 2 inches from center of back. line J<j
10,
waist and 2
side
seam
Sweep from line 1^4
3
9.
11.
15
from
'4^
inches from
5,
6 and
12.
as shown.
under arm cut
Add
inch.
8 to 9.
II
Draw
^
6.
seat
If
length and
7.
is
Form
full
5.
10
is
is
3.
Apply suppression measure from
13
4
back.
9 inches
Draw
2;
21.
is
used, close top of sidebody
to 16 15 to
by shoulder point. where sweep crosses
inches for Single, as
Double Breasted, taking out
and back.
V
at
16.
shown by dotted
at J.
For Box coats, straighten side seam to
taste.
35
lines,
and from 2>4 to
3
inches
for
FROCK COATS.
Draft the same as for
through
5
To at
3,
Morning Coat, adding on
^4
inch to
get front spring of skirt, go up from where sweep crosses
and back
as
4,
5
inches, as from 3 to
I
rounding up
shown by dotted
lapel,
to 2
is
lines.
sweep from gorge point to ajii';
5
to 6
is
2>.;;
front
line
'/<
inch, as
4.
F"orm top of skirt as shown.
For
line,
to gorge point.
Place square with corner touching edge of lapel, and short
and
breast
7 to 8 is
7
by
2%.
5.
arm extending though
3
DRESS COATS.
Draft the same as for Morning Coat.
X 6
yi breast
is is
6 inches from spring
Draw 2
is
measure from back
line
^
from
5
to 6
line.
line.
and round out as shown, from X.
inch back from front
line.
Rt)und out from
2,
nothing at gorge.
Make
strap of skirt 1^4
inches wide and form as shown.
29
^/i
Drop
^
inch to
inch between
l
3.
and
4
to
t
t
30
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
;*-
t
SLEEVE FOR
Square from
O
to
Mark
A
is
I
A to O, ^ inches scye on
size of
K
Square across from
O
to
B
is
Place
N
Mark
size of
Draw
line
N
is
where
in
y^
Sweep by
Form
K=i8, to B.
O
L
to
18.
to L.
B by
K N
B. for top of sleeve
(see
dotted
line),
and form
as
shown,
inch from O.
Apply width
R, S
always.
line crosses
O
to K.
square down.
scye on
from
O
SCYE.
scye^g.
B and
on
Sweep from going
of
>^
and from
i8
is
half
of
back to O;
find length to
way between N and K, from
size of cuff.
as shown, going out y,
inch at
P.
elbow
at P,
2 to R, for
and
full
bottom of
length and sleeve.
>4
inch to
2.
COLLARS. DIAGRAM Draw of
roll,
as
the crease line for lapel from
from * to
Draw the
inch in advance of the shoulder point to end
'4
2.
crease line for collar from point
of the shoulder point.
The stand
is
All collars are drafted in the
ij^t
I
fat
men
with
Crease line for lapel Crease line for collar
Make
the stand
-Ji
is
is
from
* to
the
it
is
as
follows:
curved from
1
through the dot.
inch and curve as represented.
line of collar
obtain the end of
desired
it
roll,
from point
i
3.
line
of
from
lapel
the
*
to
end
of
through the dot.
place lapel even with forepart opposite the hole to which
should turn, as represented.
DIAGRAM To
i'/ÂŁ.
2.
Draw crease
To
inch back
2.
For Double Breasted Frocks, draw crease as to
'/{
2.
collar
DIAGRAM roll,
is
same way.
necks, draft
short
through the dot, which
inch and the leaf
DIAGRAM For
I.
4.
get the right angle for end of collar, place
the
lapel
forepart at end of gorge, and shape end of collar to overlap
33
it
in a '4
closing
inch.
position, with
TO DKAIT VEST FROM COAT PATTERN.
1
is
Yz
inch in from waist point.
2
is
Vi
waist measure and
3 is
J4
inch over breast
4 is
>^
waist and
â&#x20AC;˘ Dot is
5
is
full
open and length and
Sweep from
Form
as
l
5
to 6
i
inch from
i.
line.
inch from
3.
inch.
i
i
by
inch.
6 to 8
7.
shown by dotted
lines,
is
swept by
dropping
'4
g.
inch from
top
of
back, and
taking
^
inch off width of shoulder and enlarging scye.
To adding
i
find
open and
full
inch to measures for
length, measure
make
top of back
up.
^m 36
and
apply on shoulder point,
.1
TO DRAFT SEPARATE VEST.
Find shoulder gorge and scye points as for a coat.
Top
of back to
i
is
natural waist.
waist and
to 2
is
'4
2 to 3
is
suppression measure and
1
i
inch. ,'4
inch
for
each
inch
difference
between breast
and waist. 3 to 4 is
^
waist and
to 6
y2
breast measure and 2]i inches.
5
Draw
is
line
from gorge point. side
inch.
from 6 through
Apply open and
Form
i
full
4.
length measures to shoulder point, adding
Narrow shoulder straps
seams and hollow back
as
Yx
and enlarge scye
shown on
plate.
y,.
i
inch.
Sweep bottom
T
t
38 i
t
FAT MAN'S COAT.
Begin by drafting as
for an ordinary Sack,
only go
applying waist measure from that and running spring
Sweep from
Where sweep I.
Mark down
by
i
i-%
Form
as to
5
to 6
This
is
will
the edges, and
3 to
line.
2,
letting long
arm touch
front line. 5,
6 and
7,
and lap from nothing
at 6 to dotted
of distance from 3 to breast line.
shown by dotted
where the pocket goes
lines. in.
be found to throw a fullness where it
back
3.
amount
front as
line parallel with
crosses breast line, apply corner of square on
cut forepart through from 4 to
lines at 7 the
the suppression at the waist,
back of shoulder point.
Measure the distance from
Now
in
also does
away with the surplus
it
is
wanted without having to shrink
draperj- in skirt.
39
i
TO DRAFT A CAPE.
Find I
full
length from top of back to
2.
Square across to
5.
Round up from
inch 3 to 4 is 4>i
inches.
Form from 6
to top of back.
7 to 8
is
3 to
414 inches.
Measure length
Sweep from
8
scam of back and apply from which is inch back of shoulder
of side
by
...
.
41
. ,
to 9
point,
and ,0 t6 8
and form as shown.
6
T
"^ J*
V ^
DISPROPORTION.
SHORT NECK AND HIGH SHOULDERS. As
in
tlic
la.st,
the onl)- difference occurs
in
the shoulder and gorge points.
EXAMPLE. Lower shoulder,
13;
Mark both
on Scale L or shoulder point.
two measures, effect of
sizes
droj) that
upper, I2>^
amount below the
I2>j or
upper shoulder measure.
dropping the point down and back, as shown by solid
point also drops
down
a
lines
on
plate.
This has the
The gorge
corresponding amount, and the top of back does the same.
43 i
Whatever the distance between the
DISPROPORTION.
LONG NECK AND When
there
is
a difference
SLOl'ING SHOULDERS.
between the upper and lower shoulder measures, the
onlj'
difference in drafting occurs in the shoulder and gorge points.
EXAMPLE. If
the upper
is
13'..
and the lower
13,
mark both
sizes
on Scale
ever the distance between 13 and 13V2. raise the same amount over
from that point, as shown by solid a
lines
on plate.
Also
raise the
l^'/,
I,
and then, what-
and form shoulder
gorge and
toj)
of
back
corresponding amount.
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i
t
I +.-
.
-:*
ALTERATIONS.
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s^j-
A FF.W REMARKS TO YOUNG CUTTERS. If the back scnvt of a coat appears s/iort, thus causing wrinkles from top of sidcbod)- to and an inclination to kick off behind, the necessary alteration is to drop the sideseam of forepart until wrinkles disappear. This will necessitate the shortening of forepart from sideseam to nothing at edge at bottom, and also tiie taking off shoulder seam of back from nothing at shoulder point whatever amount the back has passed up at top of sidebody. front of hips
This latter will do away with the surplus cloth at back of scye caused by the dropping of sideseam. This same alteration may be effected by shortening shoulder-strap from nothing at back scye, but will necessitate the taking off from edge from nothing at breast to Ijottoni,
and the deepening of gorge, which
in
the case of a finished coat
is
not practicable.
If a coat appears too long in back, and has a tendency to crowd up on neck and appear between shoulders, throwing wrinkles from front of scye to waist point of back, the neccssar)- alteration is to pass the back down at sideseam, cutting off the amount at bottom The same effect can be arrived at by of back and at the top 'of sidebody of forepart. lengthening shoulder-strap, but it entails so many other changes that it is a serious alteration, particularly as the effect is the reverse from the short back; that is, it will fall off at front, necessitating the taking off of spring and adding to forepart from bottom to nothing at breast, which in the case of a made-up coat would be an impossible alteration.
full
If a coat falls off at tcaist and breaks back, .shortening the strap until coat lifts
ill
front of scye,
alter
by passing shoulder point
This will also ease scye. and put in a piece at scye at back pas.ses out amount it of shoulder the width Cut gorge, unless there has been an inlay left, in which case it can be let out until it reaches top of back at shoulder point. Al.so deepen the gorge as much as necessary. This is equivalent to taking off from blade down through the sideseam and adding on to front from waist to nothing at breast point, or to straightening shoulder on draft by moving shoulder point forward and down and deepening gorge. into
place
at
waist.
off
If a coat breaks f-om shoulder point to scye, but is all right in the balance, the collar be on too short, but if not, rip out shoulder seam and let the strap pass out at back may breaks disappear, and put in piece at gorge. The trouble is the shoulder has until scye been cut too crooked, but short enough in strap to hold the coat in at waist.
If a coat throzvs a bidge at bottom of front scye, but is otherwise all right, fip out shoulder and pass forward on back, taking off at gorge point and letting out strap at scye until it becomes same width as back. The coat has been cut too straight in shoulder, but long enough in strap to balance.
If a coat catches from front of scye to seat, h\x\i is otherwise spring, or the same may be caused b>- too tight a scye.
4G
%
all
right,
it
requires
more
1
INDEX.
....... ...... ...... ....... ...... .....
TO TEXT.
Preface,
Hagc.
4
Description of the Outliner,
5
Genius and Taste, Judgment,
6
Tact,
8
Importance of
tiie
7
Profession,
9
Measuring, Unnatural Positions, Cutting,
A
10 1
12
,
Last Word,
13
M
Proportion Measures for Men's Coats, Proportion Measures for Boys' and Youths' Coats, Directions for Measuring, Suppression Measure,
To
use the Outliner,
Morning Coats— to Sack P>ock Dress
"
draft,
"
"
.... .... ..... .... .
•
15
17
19 21
23
C * t
25
27 •
Sleeve
31
Collars
Vest from Coat Vest separate Fat Man's Coat
29
•
-J^ ft
33 35
•
37
39
Cape
41
Disproportion, Alterations,
.
43-45 46
TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Shoulder Measures, Suppression Measures,
16
The
20
18
Outliner,
Morning Coats, Sack Coats, Frock Coats,
22 24 .
Dress Coats, Sleeve, Collars,
Vest with Coat, Vest separate. Fat Man's Coat, Cape, Disproportion,
26 28
•
30 32 34
36 38
40 42-44
.>
x^
PCTTiaONC. WCLtS & CO.
PR NTERS, I
CHICACO.
48
1
r
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS I
III
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