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STONE'S SCIENTIFIC SYSTEM OF GRADING

Patterns For Men's By

Garments

the Proportions of Heights and of the

Human Form

CHAS.

j:

STONK

CHICAGO,

ILL.

PUBLISHED BY

THE

CHAS. J. STONE CO. CHICAGO

Widths

COPYRIGHTlin 1912 BV Chas. I. Stonk Co.

Thu

7.

I

4 fo-oa /J/VT

1 INTRODUCTORY U.

experienced

pattern cutters that

wliile

breast coat

designers

man

for a 33 breast

will

too small, and a 43 breast coat for a

measuring 43 breast in llic

Miiall

Mzes

actual

come out

will

it is

by a

alike, but

that

we grade

First of

sizing

in

knows

that

garments the

is

impossible to draft

scientific

method of grading

it

correct increase and decrease in

same shape and outlines

be too large, and

cutter

number of

possible to produce any

be

man

small and tbe larger sizes,

cutters have also discovered that

two patterns

will

practice tbe

Besides these difficulties

large.

and

actual practice

garment drafted 38 breast man will lit properly, a 33

a

a 38 size

t'lr

garment

know from

as in

mc

let

impress ujwn the student's mind,

that grading can not be

done by angling out from any imaginary jwint (simply starting somewhere, may land you nowhere). The grading of patterns means an equal increase and decrease in size, but the breast, waist size, the

and

remember

seat increases,

that while

one inch for each

height does not increase in the

same proportions

as the breast, hence the angled out lines do not give the proper increase and decrease desired.

Second, do not attempt to grade from youth's to men's nor from slims to stouts, for they are all of diflferent types,

cutters

44, waist 46, seat 46.

we have

Fourth,

The The

the stubs.

stout stubs. fat stubs.

The corpulent stubs. .Ml 5 feet I'^ifth,

6 inches

we have

in height.

the youths.

Height 5 feet 7 inches.

Breast 36, waist 31, seat 38.

N'oTii.

sizes

—'To

down

grade

and divide

30 breast space down four

to

into five parts.

Trcjlisers.

sizes

from.

all

— Breast

patterns with the

and with the the original model pattern all

Corpulents

All 5 feet 8 inches in height.

forms and heights, and so classed by experienced and designers.

For regular trousers use pattern 34 waist, 39 seat, with knee and bottom size to prevailing style.

I'^or stout men's use pattern 38 waist. 40 seat.

For fat men's use pattern 42 waist, 43 seat.

I'^or corpulent men's use pattern 46 waist, 46 seat.

Increase and decrease waist inch and increase and 1

^

decrease seat

inch for each size.

In grading patterns,

form, then proceed to

first

cut a model for each type of

make

the different grades.

.\s previously stated, the small sizes get too small

and

the large sizes get too large, so in grading, space

for

four sizes and divide the spaces into five parts, thereby

decreasing the large sizes

and

increasing

the

smaller

sizes.

In the normal i)atterns start with size 38, go up four

from 38 to 42. divide this into five parts and 42 become size 43, then go down four sizes from 38 to 34, divide this into five parts and 34 will be size 33.

Sack overcoats are graded on same lines as the regular sizes will

Classifications.

First

comes the

ular normal man.

man measuring

regulars, that

The

is,

patterns for the reg-

model pattern is cut for a feet 8 inches, breast 38, waist

first

in height 5

and trousers to correspond.

Second comes the tails and slims, height 6

Third

is

— Breast 40, waist Fats — Breast waist 42, seat

38, seat 41.

42,

— In

laying

out

the

grade,

feet,

38 and 21

is

for 42,

which

is

4

—21

sizes.

use all

an

ordinary

over; 19

This

is

is

for

divided into

5 parts as will be further explained with the grades.

the stouts, fats, and the corpulent.

Stouts

Note.

square and use the divisions 19

34, seat 39, with vest

breast 36, waist 32, seat 37.

sack coat.

43.

Note. allel

—Tools to

rulers

be used

:

Projwrtional divider, par-

and perforating needle, besides the ordinary

tailor's square.

Stone's Scientific System

of Gradimj Patterns

DIAGRAMS A AND B

A — The

Diagram

grading pajjer as line

A,

llackparl

])er

F and G

I.ay the pattern so that the

from

straight line

and

1

Top

with line line

li-l'\

D-Q on

find 19

to J to

is

K

B through

The

first

inch in

is •>4

copy off the back.

point

G

F",

E-O

parallel

is

and square out

42 or 21 on divis-

is

on the square.

on 3rds and

is

K

to

L

on

8ths.

is

>^ inch.

is

on 3rds and

line

is

2 to 3

is

on

6ths.

line

The

solid

heavy

Square breast

line

^4 inch

is

on

8ths.

a parallel line

more than

through

line

through

1

N

and

from

K fm

I

O

to

N.

and draw

a

parallel line

for 2.

O and 2 by end of roll of neck gorge.

Parallel

N and

U

lapel

is

U

to

V

is

V

to

Y

is

H

through

to

from 8

1.

and point 3

is

break of

X

and

is |)arallel

",s

roll at

inch.

with breast

line.

on 4ths and 6 to 7 on 6ths.

Q to R is on 4ths.

Set spacer on 5 and divide all the marked

3.

all

on 5ths or

is

P to S is on 4ths and S to T on 12ths.

Draw line through P-T and jiarallel from 5 to

5 to 6 is on 3rds and 6 to 7 on 6ths.

D to Q is on 3rds. Set spacer on 5 and divide

The

O

to

Draw

Line P-S

S(|uare out to 2. a line

for AI.

X and

to

I

line E.

point O.

K

W

(J to

Draw

from

by breast

on 5ths or T/^ inch. on 6ths.

Draw line through U-Y.

3rds.

P on 12ths. through E and P and a parallel

the sleeve notch.

L

through

K

line

I

F.

Parallel 3-4 by I-K.

for point 9.

H

and

to J is on 3rds and J to line through I and K.

Draw Draw

then square

on 3rds.

1

Draw

I

C

19 to 21 on divisions

O

to to

the 38 size pattern.

G

I'j inch from

is

Draw line from II L to M is on 3rds.

pattern being size 38,

Draw line through G and L. F to M is on 3rds and M to N on Draw line through F and N.

N E

The heavy

I.

of sidebody, line

divisions, the next pattern

ions, so the space is

A G

is

bottom part

Si|uare up line iron}

bottom.

at

a straight Hne on

in this ])osition

S<|uare a line across from breast line L'-\'.

— Draw

11

A, U, S and

line

T, C, U, E,

1!,

Square up front shoulder point

Prelim iNARv)

(

6

over.

5

8 for

9.

is

parts.

The 42

pattern

will

be

.size

off grades into 43,

which

is

correct.

Fouep.xrt.

The

lines represent the

by front

line .\,

?>,

forepart size 38.

C.

V

under the arm

is

moved backwards and forwards

t)n Sths.

The pockets arc lengthened and shortened on

Sths.

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Putt cms

Stone's Scientific System of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM Diagram

Câ&#x20AC;&#x201D; The

C-D

Backpartâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; The heavy

line

repre-

and the grade is laid out the same Space up and out 4 sizes and divide as in Diagram A. all these spaces into 5 parts, then space off up and down on all the various lines from 38 up to 43 and 46 and down to 34, thus giving us the complete grade from 34 sents a 38 size back,

to 46.

D

graded the same as forepart B, usout 4 sizes from 38 to 42. DiSpace ing a 38 pattern. making 42 to size 43. Space up vide this into 5 parts,

The

forepart

and down on 34.

The

V

all

is

(he various lines

under the arm

is

up

to

46 and down to

The pockets

not graded.

are graded on 8ths or as small a space as you can make.

No further ex])lanation is needed on this grade, as it is

made

precisely the

same

as

been increased and decreased sizes.

Diagram

.\-I>,

to the smaller

only

it

has

and the large

Stone s Scientific System of Grading Patterns

Stone's Scientific System

)0

of Gradiny Patterns

DIAGRAM E E

Diagram 4_'

is

coat,

In grading fat man's patterns start

42 waist.

breast,

Sack

the forepart of a fat man's

from 21 to li and making the 46 size 47. Extend the grades up to 50 and down to 38. By using the division of 5 it will decrease the lar,^er sizes and increase the The back is graded the same as the orsmaller ones. dinary Sack coat. The heav\- line represents the 42 with 42 breast and space 4 sizes

divide these in 5 parts,

In squaring the breast line lay S(|uare back

pattern.

inch from

A

to

B

at the

inch for every inch of

waist

line,

with

\\'-X.

is

C-D

Breast line

E

Shoulder point

is

E to F is on 3rds, E 14 is 1 line through E and C,.

Draw a line from 14 through L.

end

at

then

is

luared

s

1

of an

^/^

Lay corner of square

fat.

of lapel and square line \\'-X. parallel

which

up

G

on 8ths. inch from 12 Draw a is on I. to and 13. of on size. break line lapel 42 is the 3rds.

Line J-W from E-(l.

Draw line a I'arallel line J-K by line E to inch more G to is '4 I'arallel line from G to 1.

II. Draw a line thro\i.!.;li 11 and and parallel than E to 11.

1-1. to X is Js inch. line 1-2 by X to Y is on 6ths. fnjm breast

to

line Z.

'

l,

M

I

1

W

1

Draw

a line

through

In II is "s inch.

under the arm.

1) to

and Y. X and P

sidebody line R-S

is

T on

X

D

and

to

to C) is

close

Draw

is

')

'^ inch.

first

drawn on to

th.-

Top ol

together.

R

10

taken oul

the \

is

with X-Q.

parallel

12ths.

.\

X-Q

lireast line

pattern with points

4ths and S to

W

S

a line through

is

R

on and

by R-T. U to V is on 4ths. under the arm moves backwards and forwards on Sths. Line 34-35 is parallel with il and 33. The \' moves forwards and backwards from P and O on Sths.

T and

parallel line 16-17

The

V

The

first

\'

in

Uqiel line 24-2S.

the 42 coat

Line 3-4

is is

parallel

by the notch of

the front and line 3-6 the

opening of the V. Line 7-8, the end of the \' is parallel with line 3 and 4.

Set spacer on 5 and divide all Shoulder point E is 42, G is 47, these spaces. is 47, 30 is 50, 31 is 38.

28 is 50, 29 is 38, L is 42. is is is Front \V 47. 20 42, Y 50, 21 is 38, 10 is 42, 11 is In the sideâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; R is 42. T is 47. 40 47, i7 is 50, 38 is 38.

Th.e ])ockets in the front at is 50 and iK)int 39 is iS. ii are lengthened and shortened on Sths.

M

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

11

Stone's Scientific System

12

of Grading Patterns

FROCK COATS

starting witli a size 38 pattern.

same as the Sack coats Diagram F 1.

A T

8ths.

The Frock to

Z

is

to

U

is

coats are graded the

K

Draw

L

M

to

is

is

X

to

is

to

R

is

V

on

\'.

on and N through ]\1 and

to

O

on

Draw

12ths.

The

(J.

37

notch, s(|uare out to Q.

on

V

is

6ths.

and

line

is

parallel with line 36-37.

back.

Line 27-29

is

parallel with 26-28.

Break

Y

line 30-31 is parallel

to 21 is

21 to 22

Di.\(;r.\m 5

i)oint

tnj)

F

2.

of sidebody by breast

W.

18 to 19

is

19 to 20

is

18

on 12ths and 6 to 7 on 8ths.

Draw line through 3 and 7. ') to 10 is on 3rds. 10 to 1 and 8 to 12 is on 6ths and 12 to 13 on 8ths. ]')raw lines through 8 and 13 and 9 and 11.

8 and 9 is the 38 size and 13 and 11 is the 42 size.

5 is the 38 and 7 is the 42 size spaced.

line

Draw is

line

28 to 29.

38

is

parallel with

Draw

Point 14 remains the same.

is

to 2

is

Point 32

Draw

38

size.

6ths.

through

Y

and

22.

J 8 inch.

on

6ths.

through 18 and 20.

and 20 is the 42. on 4ths and 16 to 17 on through 15 and 17.

6ths.

is

parallel with breast line.

on 8ths and is l'/^

3,

to

4

is

the same.

inch up and back from the scye.

a line from 32 through 33 for 34.

Divide 3.

inch.

on

the 38 and 17 the 42 size.

Line 1-2 1

is

line

33 to 34

The Forepart â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Diacr.xm F line represents the

15

with line 23-25.

the 38

15 to 16

1

%

is

is

The heavy

parallel line

36.

Line 39-40

Sii>F,noi)Y

Square up thnnigli 6

to 26.

and 27 and

2()

parallel with line 26-27

Draw

line

more than 23

through

sleeve notch.

C to (i and D to E is on 6ths.

F to F is on 12ths.

Draw line through D and F. Tiri-;

is

'4 incii

is

line

line 42.

36-37.

Draw line through P-R for C-D is the length of the 38

5 to

1.

25 to 27

to

inch.

3r<ls

Draw line P is sleeve

Q

X, Y, 42,

%

U

line

S

line

on 3rds and K to L on 3rds. through J and L.

on 3rds. on 3rds and

Draw hnc through T and J to

Square breast

Square up through shonliicr point 23 by breast 23 to 24 is on 3rds.

24 to 25 is on 8ths.

Draw line through 23 and 25.

Draw line from 23 to 26.

Draw parallel line from 25 for 27.

is

all

on 3rds. these spaces into 5 jiarts and the largest

become complete grade of Frock

tern spaced 42 will

size 43.

for

coats.

i)at-

See Diagram

F

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

^^

Stone's Scientific System

14

of Grading Patterns

FROCK COAT. DIAGRAM F Complete Grade. having studied the preceding diagram the student famiHarized himself with the general layout of the

r.y

lias

grade, so

it

will be

unnecessary to go into

The

ail

the pre-

heavy lines represent the 38 Space out four sizes from 38 to 42, 19 to 21 size coat. on divisions, as cxjilained in Diagram F, 1, 2 and 3. limiiiar)- details.

solid

5 parts, thus making the 42 size Extend all lines up and down and continue the spaces up and duwn to the largest and smallest pattern In the i>attern the largest is 46 and the smallest desired.

The waist length of the back is lengthened and 34. is

Divide these sjjaces into

43.

shortened on Oths.

The

foreparts

and sidebodies are

lengthened and shortened on 6ths, which will leave the length of the skirts the same.

The A, n,

C and D

is

Skirt.

the 38 skirt.

Draw

a straight line

A

through B for ])oints E-G. It is easier to grade a .s(|uare corner than one that is round, .so for the beginner it is better to square out the corners and grade them square and afterwards round the corners. The bottom

from

of the skirt rounds back to point

down

J,

but in this case

it

has

forward and back from D. A line may be drawn just above the round of the skirt and graded if so desired. The increase of the skirt in width from B to E and D to F is 1^ inch or two inches less the increase of the back at Divide the distance between B and E, D and waist line. tive parts, go forward 3 spaces from E to G and F, into F to II for the 46 size and come back four spaces from Shape top to each r. to I and D to J for the 34 size. point in front from ])oint K, top of hip.

been s(|uared

to point

D.

S(|uare

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

13

Stone's Scientific SystcKi

16

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM G The hea\y

Paletot.

Tin-:

graded the same as the Frock Coat.

Start grathng with a size 40 pattern and space off four Use 20 to 22 on divisions. sizes from 40 to 44.

Tlic

I'aletot

is

G

A, B, O, L, F,

A

to

V

is

G

to II

is

the size 40 back.

is

on 6ths. on 6ths and

Draw hne through

II to

and

Ci

K

to J is on 3rds and J to Draw line tlirough F and K.

K L

to 10

to

M

is '/s

is

on 3rds,

3 to

inch.

on 3rds and

5 is sleeve notch.

.\I

tn

.\

S(|uare out to

6.

is

to

Draw

the 40 sidebody.

on 3rds.

21 to 22 and 20 to 23 is on 6ths.

23 to 24 is on 8ths.

Draw line through 20 and 24 for 2b and 26.

Draw line through V) and 22 for 27 and 28. is

25-28

size 36, 20-19 is

is

size 40,

24-22

size 48.

Point 29 remains stationarx'.

Till-: l'"ouiir.\RT.

Square breast

line

A, B, C, D.

3.

to 2.

for the 40 ccat.

line

with line L-.M up and

down from O.

is

1

and

6.

through

line

and X.

\'

and 10 through ') and

7s inch

is

line

tn 11 (.n Oths.

11.

parallel with line 12-13.

is

the size 40 coat.

is

the side

seam

;

The

increase

from

on 8ths.

27 and 22 is the forepart and

skirt

parallel with breast line.

is

out to the 44 size

is

of the 40 coat. .\

cut out as from 27 to 22 extending up to 40.

\' is

22 to 23

Draw

is

line

on 8ths and 23 to 24 on 6ths. through 22 and 24.

Parallel

27 with

Line 40

is

line

25 and 26.

paralleled by 25

and

26.

Divide distance between 22 and 24 into 5 i)arts, then run up and down to 26 and 25. Divide lines 28-29 and

is

line

40 with same spaces.

on 4ths and 31 to 32 on 6ths. through 30 and 32 and divide into 5 parts, then space up and down for the 48 and 36 sizes.

The skirt runs from 22 through 30 to 35 and down to 43.

35 to 36 is on 6ths and 36 to 37 is ^^ inch.

Draw line through 35 anil 37 and divide into 5 parts, go up to 38 for 48 size and down to 39 for the 36 size.

Line 43 is parallel with line ,38-,19 and the divisions are

30 to 31 Divide into

5 parts.

26-27

is

D

is

size 48.

19 to 21

I

for

W

is

Line 42

12 from breast

line

1') is

\'

to notch of lapel 2,

I

through 2 and 3 and parallel lines to X is on 6ths. ',s inch and

line

W

9 to 10

30

Points 20 and

the

is

I.

uj)

more than

34 inch

is

])arallel

Draw

on 12ths and 13 to 14 is on Sths. through point 12 and 14 for 15 and 16, then draw parallel line 17 and 18 for the seam.

16 is size 36, \H>'ml 12 is 40, jxiinl 14 is 45 and point 15 12 to 13

inch

I

Draw

\' to

line 11.

Draw

K

Line E-l' iioint

coat.

C

a line

Draw

Tin-; SujiiiiODY.

through top of sidebody

a line

\

D u])

40

line

Lines R-S and T-l' are parallel with O-P.

is

Square

!'/>

is

Point

on 12ths.

on 6ths. Draw line through 6 and 7.

B to U and O to P is on 6ths.

P to Q is on 12ths. Draw line through O and Q. Divic.e all these spaces into 5, go up to 48 and down 36, or up and down to any other sizes desired.

6 to 7

the size

and K. from shoulder point then draw a iJarallel line from K

1.

!<

is

from breast

u])

Point 14

Draw Draw

on Sths.

1

line

through shoulder point and back from armscye.

Draw line from 14 through 15.

15 to 16 is on 3rds.

1 to J is on 3rds and J to K on 8ths.

Square

size

45 and

Draw

is

line

the same.

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

)7

Stone's Scientific System

18

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM H Till-:

The Raglans are graded tlic same as the regular Sack coats.

Use a size 40 to grade from. The heavy lines 40

indicate the

The

Raglan.

Draw

A

to

V

Back.

on 3rds.

C is on 3rds.

D is on 8ths. is

B to C to Draw

line

Point

F

through

is

and D.

the sleeve notch. tlie

F to G is on 3rds and G to Q on Draw line through F and Q. Line

H

to

Draw Draw

O

to

line line

P

2 to 3

Divide

W,

on 3rds and

is

is

through

M-X

on

12ths.

and 4

and 3 L and 5

The bottom

part

D. Q, P,

and 18

is Jfi is

line

on

inch.

6ths.

through 25 and 27,

28 for the 48

size

is

30

to 31

on

is

go up to

sjiace into 3 jiarts,

and down

to

the top of sidebody of the

30

line 6-8 front

])oints.

26 to 27

Draw

the l)reak of roll at neck.

is

20 and 21 with

29 for the 36

40

size.

size.

4ths.

31 to 32 on 12ths.

these spaces into 3 parts.

K

roll

iJie

25 to 26

I.

on 3rds.

all

top.

end of

shoulder

with line K-L.

i)arallel

''4

Parallel break line 18-19,

on 3rds.

T. R, X.

coat.

and

II

X, U, S, M,

\',

to J

I

is

is

line

6tlis.

with line E, F.

is ])arallel

is

I

25

inch at point O.

'/,s

ll-l

is

inch more than 6 to 9. through 9 and 10 and parallel line 14-15.

The lines for the \"s are parallel with front of notch line 9-10.

The bottom of the \' is on a parallel with

Draw

Scjuare across at point F.

Reduce

line C.

8ths.

is

line

8 to 10

P,

of sidebody.

to])

through shoulder point 6 from breast

on 3rds and 7 to 8 on through 6 and 8.

6 is forwards of 11 and points 7 and 8 forwards of 12.

Draw line from 6 to 9 and jiarallel line from 8 for 10.

Draw

The

breast line across at

.^c|uare u])

6 to 7

size jjattern.

Foreiwkt.

I

is

is

the 48 size.

Draw

line

through 30 and 32 and di\ide up and down for

all sizes.

is

the 45 size.

Draw

parallel line 37-38 for the seam.

is

the 36 size.

34-38

is

graded the same as the regular Sack

33-37

size 36, is

30-35

is

size 40,

32-36

is

size

45 and

size 48.

Point at 39

is

on 4ths and

at

40 same as

at breast line.

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

10

20

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM The Forepart

I

nouni.E Breasjed Fkcjck

oi-

The Double Breasted Frock is graded the same as the The heavy line is the 38 size

Single Breasted Frock.

Forepart.

Sc|uare breast line and s(|uare up line

C

through front

shoulder point.

Point Z

Draw

lj4 inch from 24 and 25.

is

a line from

Z through F. on 3rds and I to J on 8ths.

Draw a line through E and J. Draw a line from E to D and parallel a point K.

E

to I

is

K

J to

Draw

^

is

inch

more than E

D

through

line

line

from J

for

to D.

and K.

inch and H to ^[ is '^ inch. on 6ths. Draw line through H and N. G to Q is on 4ths and O to R on 6ths.

Draw a line through G and R. B to 1 is on 8ths and 4 to 5 on 8ths.

A

M

L

to

to

%

is

N

is

I.ine 6-7 is ])arallel

F

to 21

8 and 12

with breast

line.

on 3rds.

is

the break line of lapel.

is

Parallel 8-9 by line l'>-20.

I.ine 14-15

The

parallel with line O-P. graded only on length according to length of

is

lapel is

forepart.

The

collar

increased 1-16 inch

is

the back, in

all

in

3-16 inch for each

and 2-16

front

in

size.

Collars.

Diagram

1.

for ordinary

Collars

Sack and Frock coats

crease in length 3-16 inch for every size.

Of

will this

in-

1-16

goes to the front end and 2-16 to the back.

Diagram

2.

Convertible collars increase in size }4 inch for every

Of

size.

Diagram

The

this

'(^

added

is

in

front and -4 in the back.

Blouse Collars.

3.

of neck is }i inch for each size of breast, hence the increase of half of the collar is inch, which increa.se

^

is all

added

in the back.

Diagram 4.

The Ulster lars. all

The

added

collar

is

increase

is

in the back.

graded the same as the Blouse }i

col-

inch for every size of breast,

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

21

9'>

Stone's Scientific Systeh)

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM The Dress Coat

J

Front.

The Dress Coat is graded the same as the regular Frock Coats. The heavy Hues represent the 38 size from which to grade.

Draw

hreast line and square

through front shoulder

u])

B from breast line A. is Q 15^ inch up and forwards from armscye. Square up from Q through O. O to P is on 3rds.

B to C is on 3rds and C to D on 8ths.

Draw line through B and D. E is the dart. Parallel up and down from E by front of shoulders B-D. point

F

is

front of dart.

F up and down

Parallel

for 8-11 by

line 14-15.

Parallel

line

36-37 by line 8-11 and line 20-21

is

on a

parallel with line 36-37.

Draw

a

line

from B

to

C and

|)arallel

a line

from

D

from

H

for K.

D

K

to

Draw

y^ inch

is

more than B

a line through

to C.

C and K and

parallel a line

for L, 12 and 13.

Lines K-J, 10-11 and 9-8 are on a parallel with line G, F. Lines K-L, 10-13 and 12-9 are parallel with G-H.

S

to

T

is

Js inch

and

T

to

U

is

on

6ths.

Draw

a line through S and LJ for points 24 and 25.

Line V, is on a parallel with line S. U.

W

Line 28 to 29 is up on 6ths and forwards on 8ths.

Lines 32-53 and 34-35 are parallel with line 30-31.

R

to

X

Draw

is

on 4ths and

a line through

X R

to

and

Y Y

on

6ths.

for points 22-23.

2 to 3 and 6 to 7 is on 8ths.

Divide into five parts the same as on the Frock coats.

Back and sidebodv are the same as on the Frock coats.

Stone's Scioitific System

of Grading Patterns

2i

Stone's Scientific System

24

of Gradin(/ Patterns

DIAGRAM K K

Diagram

V

line represents the

Draw

a

policeman's

taken out at neck gorge.

The heavy

represents

overcoat with no

40

front

the

of

size forepart.

the usual breast line B,

E

and

1.

Line A, B, C is the front center.

St|uare up from breast line E through front shoulder point E.

E to G is on 3r(ls and G to 11 on 8ths.

Draw a line through E and H. Draw a line from E to .\ and a parallel

H

to

from

line

H

for

L

Ijoint

is

I

which together with the

inch,

4,s

crease of the width of back at top

makes

it

'4

inch in-

^

inch in-

crease of the neck gorge.

Draw

a line through

O

Line D,

D X

O

A

and

Draw

?',s

inch.

through

O

for point Q.

Y

J,s

to

to

is

is

is

\'

the

Q

center line

U

\'

to \'

the

same

to

W and

Draw

Draw

line

Line T-9

K

is

Point Z

Draw

line

center line

C

from

1

as

at

first

to

second

R

to

bottom of forepart.

is

the

C

to

same as C

to

Q

and from

C

is

Q.

C to 8 is on 6ths. from U through and from R through C. on 6ths and 6 to 7 is "j^ inch.

is

to

center

taken out.

W

line

S to 6

1

parallel J for K.

front

Measure distance between

Erom

and

inch.

T

Line R, S,

1

2J4 inches below B.

is

through 5 and is

the

is

7.

parallel with line S-7.

same as

.A to J.

ly, inch forward and up from armscye.

from Z through L. DU 3rds. to 2 is on 8ths, 3 to 4 is on 4ths and 4 to ? on 6ths.

Draw line through 3 and 5, divide all these spaces into 1

,

to

a line

M

is

1

five parts.

The

back, sidebody and skirts are graded the

the regular Erock coats.

same

as

Stone's Scicntifii- System

of Gradiiuj Patterns

25

26

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAMS L-M Diagram is

L

is

the Dress Coat Skirt.

M, X.

O

and

P

the 38 size skirt.

M

Square out from through P to R is on 4ths and N to

N

and from

Q

is

{'/^

O

througli P.

inch or whatever

the increase of the forepart and sidebody

may

vide space into 5 parts, then go forward to for the 46, and back Shape top part from

to

W

be.

Di-

S and T

U

and V for the 34 size. forward to all the different

points.

Diagram AI is the skirt for the double breasted Frock.

C and D is the 38 size skirt.

Draw a line from A through B. B to E and C to F is 2 inches less the increase width of back on 12ths.

Divide distance B to E and C to F into 5 parts, then go forward to G-ll for 46 and l)ack to I-J for 34 size.

Shape top of skirt from point K, center of hip forward A, B,

to all the different sizes.

Stone's Scientific System

27

of Grading Patterns

G

E

B

Âť

Stone's Scientific System

28

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM N Till-

The heavy line represents Draw a straight line A.

Sleeve. the 38 size sleeve.

C through front center of

11,

sleeve.

Square a

U

to

E

line

is .)4

through inch and

D E

from C. to F is on

6ths.

G and H. and F M is halfway between 1) and C on 38 size and N is halfSijuare up way between C and E, the spaced 42 size. a line through

Draw

1)

for

M

and N. Square up and down line C, M, N. to J R to

I

is

O

a line at

I

where sleeve top crosses

on 6ths. on 4ths.

is

O and P for T and P and D, and V between U is halfway tween O and F. Draw a line through U and \'.

L'-\' is the same as D-F.

Draw

a line through

S. is

halfway be-

Go out on 8ths. Divide spaces into 5 parts. sizes. smaller for the larger and in for the lines 8, 9, Y and 2.

The 38 size vuidersleeve is shown by 6-7 by top sleeve hue line 2, 3, 4 and 3, also line

Yto

10

is

Parallel

G-H. as top

same spaces Space the underslccve on line !-}< the sleeve on line D, F. same as the top The undersleeve at bnttom is spaced the sleeve.

Stone's Scientific System

29

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM O Tufi

Draw

Raclax Slkevk.

front center line A,

1!

D

from point

S(|uare across

and

L'.

outside corner of the 40 size

outside top sleeve. to

1)

E

Draw

is

}i inch and

line

Line 15-16 Point

K

is

through is

D

E

to F is on 6ths. and F for G and

Co up from K on 3rds and which is top sleeve of the 44 Run line through K and L and divide io uji to N for the 48 and down to

top of 40 sleeve.

back on 6ths for point spaced sleeve. into 5 parts. ir

fi

(

I.,

M

the 36 size.

Lines O. P, .At

11.

parallel with line H-Cl.

Q

are parallel lines with line

hand, point T, the increase I'liK

The top Draw a

part

is

Inside

is

on

M-N.

16ths.

Top Slefvk.

at point 6.

6-7 by front center line. on 3rds and 7 to 8 on 8ths.

Draw a line through 6 and 8. Divide into 5 parts up to 10 for 48 and down to 9 for 36 size.

Lines 11, 12, 13 and 14 are all parallel lines with line

6

to 7

i)arallel line

is

9-10.

Draw

line

W-X

W to X ^ is

from 19

inch.

48 and back to Lay pattern top

V at

to D.

Divide into 5 parts out to Z for the for the 36 size.

laying

to])

down to X, which will Shape outside sleeve by Shape down to F, this will

8 and shape

give distance from 2 to

of pattern at L.

3.

locate point 16.

The increase and decrease at hand point The undersleeve is graded the same as coats.

V

is

on

16ths.

for the regular

Stone's Scientific System

30

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM P Vests.

Tlie grading of vests In this grade

heavy

line notates the

on the same principle as the with the normal vest. The

is

we

coat.

start

38

normal

size

vest.

Start with

the backpart.

on 3rds. on 3rds and K to L on Draw a line through B and L. and M to N is on 3rds.

C to Draw a line through C and N. .\ to

J

H

K

to

is

8ths.

is

M

N D

to

E

to

to

R is inch.

Q is on 3rds and Q to S O and F to P is inch. j/^

is

i/^

inch less.

1

Divide for

these points into 5 parts.

all

and down 4 more

4f),

The The heavy point

16 to 17

Draw

38 front part.

line

6 through front shoulder

inch up and back from armscye. from 15 through 16.

on 3rds.

is

on 3rds and 8 to 9 is on 8ths. a line through 7 and 9 and parallel 10-11 by is

3 to 4

Draw

more

1^

is

a line

7 to 8

3 points

size.

7.

Point 15

Draw

34

Forepart.

line indicates the

Square up from breast

Go up

[Kiints for

is

^

inch and 4 to 5

a line through 3 and

18 to 21 and 19 to 22

20 to 23 and Divide

all

to

24

is

^

in

piece

on

5.

inch.

5.

go out three spaces for

four spaces for 34 is

7-9.

6ths.

'i inch.

these spaces into

46 and go

The neck

1

is

is

size

size.

lengthened on 3rds plus 34 inch from

12 to 13.

0-14

is

Draw

parallel with 11-12.

a line through 12 and 14 and parallel 13, giving the points for the different size of neck piece.

all

Stone's Scientific System

31

of Gradiny Patterns

H-

28 22

19

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM Q Fat Men's Vest.

In this diagram

we have the vest for the fat man, The heavy Hnes indicate the size

breast 42, waist 42.

42 breast vest.

The

Backi'art.

on 3rds.

P> K is on 3rds and K to L is on Draw a Hne through K and L. C to M and M to N is on 3rds.

Draw a line througli C and N. .\

to J to

is

N

to

O

D

to

P

is

E

to

Q

and F

Divide

is

'yi

inch.

on 3rds

all

8ths.

to

less

R

%

is 1

inch.

inch.

these sjiaces into 5 parts.

48 and down 4

s])aces for the

38

(

io

out 3 spaces for

size.

TlIK FORKPAKT. C"onK' back at waist line

back from

U

.S(|uare u])

from breast

Point 5

1^4 inch

is

1

inch as from

.S

to

T

and square

for breast line.

uji

1 through shoulder point 2. and out from armscye. Draw a

line

from 5 through 7. on 3rds.

2 to 3 is on 3rds and 3 to 4 on 8ths.

Draw a line through 2 and 4.

U to 9 is .>4 inch and 9 to 10 is on Gths.

Draw a line through U and 10.

11 t(j 12 and Z to 13 is ->4 inch. \' to 15, to 16, X to 17 and Y to 14 is '4 line

7 to 8

is

W

Divide

all

these spaces into 5 parts,

48 and down 4 parts for 38 Divide into 5 parts.

size.

inch.

come out 3 18 to 19

is

parts for '4 inch.

33 Stone's Scientific System of Grading Patterns

Stone's Scientific System

34

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM R Trousers.

In

to

B

is

to

N

is

Draw

D V. 1

to

P

'

r.

.M

to to

P

and

'/,

is

inch and

33

U

'

J

is

is

U

all

Q

is

111

13

_'

i/s

is

is

'

J

inch.

\'

to

and

'..,

3 to 17

is

.'s

-Vs

line F. S.

5-16

i)arts.

1

is

and

'

is

and

inch.

inch.

_.

'

_,

inch.

lo.

)raw a line

inch and 4 to 18 to 18

out 3 spaces for

io

14,

1()

1

(

for waist 30.

KI'AIM.

I'.At

tn 14

inches.

incli.

on 16ths.

15 to

Shape line from 17 5 and 23.

^

is

come hack 4 spaces

and 13

is i'.t

is

a line thnuij^h

on Sths.

is

a line through 2

to 35 is

is ->^

these sjiaccs into 5

7 to 8

6 to 24

S

down from

K

inch and

a line thi'nn.^h

to 15

Draw

is

Draw

inch.

to

TuiC 1

lie

inch.

inch.

..

'

-Vs

F

5 inches

is

waist 42 and

Draw

I

,t;raiie.

y2 inch.

X and (1 to W" V and 11 to Z

Divide

to

liotloni to prevailing; style.

\ tn (J I., C and O.

to

J to

is

Line 32-35 to

inch and

J

T

to

and

i<iiee

and (J. R and

i2 to

1

3'J,

ti>.ii>ers.

from which

the center line.

a line through

to

D

the iinrmal

oiithiic is lliat of the i)attein

Waist 34, seat

A C

we have

(liaj^raii)

tliis

heavy

is

fi'imi

and draw a

Line 34

is

,S

through

4.

"s inch. line

5 inches

from

helow

.\

through

line 4.

34

inch.

9 to 20 and 10 to 19

is

on Sths and 12

on 16ths.

25 to 26 is J-j inch up and Lines 27-28 and 29-30 are

to 21

and

11 to

22

is

Divide

all

'4

inch back.

parallel with line 25-26.

these spaces into live

for waist size 42, and go

down

i)arts.

(io out 3 parts

four parts for size 30

waist.

T'or length of leg slide U])

and down on center

line.

Stone's Scientific System

of Gradiufi Patterns

35

Stone's Scientific System

36

of Grading Patterns

DIAGRAM

S

TiiK Fat Men's Trousers.

The heavy

'I'lie

Forepart.

42 waist forepart from

line .shows the

vvhicli

to grade.

the center line.

.\, 15 is

C to P is y, and P to Q '4 inch.

Draw a hne through C and O.

D

N

to

Draw

E

to

J to

F G

to

/

is

and

X

Z is ^ and I S is 5-16 inch.

Y X

to

and J

is Yfi is

D

is 3.. incli.

and O.

to

R

is

^

to

S

is

5-16 inch.

36 to 37 is 1/2 inch. is on K to T and H to to V is on L to U and

W

Divide

all

is

5 inches

down from G.

8ths.

M

Go

inch.

Line 36

inch.

.)s

O

to

a line through

16ths.

these spaces into 5 parts.

out 3 spaces for 50 waist and

down 4

spaces for 38

waist.

The Hackpart.

1

to 12 is y.

Draw

2 to 14

Draw

to 13

is

y

and 14

1

13.

to 15 is "4 inch.

4 to 17 is

Draw

is

jV^

25

inch.

is

a line from is

6

Draw

a

down from

4.

38 to

is

A

J^ inch.

7 to 20 is

10 to 23 and 11 to 22 all

and

for 5

18.

j^ inch.

8 to 21 and 9 to 24

Divide

5 inches

is

7.

4.

ys inch.

5 to 18

to 19

38

J^ inch.

inches above

is 2)/2

from 25 through point

line

Go

"4 inch.

is

and

a line through 2 and 15.

3 to 16

39

and 12

a line through

on is

is

5-16 inch.

8ths.

on

16ths.

these spaces into 5 parts.

out 3 spaces for the 50 waist and come back four

spaces for the 38 waist.

For

leng'th of leg' slide

up and down on center

line.

Stone's Scientific System

of Grading Patterns

37

38

Stone's Scientific System

of Gradiiiij Patterns

:

:

:

:

:

39

Stone's Scientific Systevt

of Grading Patterns

TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION Til

I:K

I'AMI

LADIES'

MIVWCl

IN'

Preliminary

Course

GARMENTS

Proportionate

Methud, drafting

from

heights and widths:

Dress Waists

MEN'S GARMENTS

measure method Coats alone

$ 30.00

Vests alone Trousers hy actual measure Coals. Vests and Trousers together .Advanced course in drafting coats, short measure

20.00 20.00 50.00 vest-- and trousers hy the

method

Coats alone

$ 3000

V^ests alone

20.00 20.00 50.00 short

Trousers hy actual mea-ure Coats. Vests and Trousers together

Mixed courses:

Proportions,

measure methods comhincd

shoulder

measure

and

.$ 50.00

75.00

lOOOO

to .\pply Individuality in Cutting

Make up Garments

$15 to Practical Course Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting the goods, trimming up of garments and trving on.... to

Blouses Jackets Bo.\ Coats C;apes Skirts ..,. .

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts together .\dvanccd Courses: Drafting hy proportion and actual ure methods

Dress Waists

50.00 i

$

Shirt Waists

Blouses Jackets Box Coats C.apes Skirts hy actual measure Dress Waists, Blouses. Jackets together

RIDING

25.(X)

25.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 15.00 25.00

Coats, Capes and Skirls

5000 II.\BITS

:

Coats alone Coats and Vests together Coats, Vests and Trousers

How How

15.00 is.no 15.00 15.00 15.00 10.00 15.00

Shirt Waists

Preliminary course in drafting hy proportions from heights and widths $ 30.00 Coats alone 20.00 \'csts alone 20.00 Trousers alone 50.00 Coals, Vests and Trousers together .\dvanced course in drafting coats and vest-; liy shoulder

25.00 25.00

Jackets Side Saddle Riding Skirts Divided Skirts

$ 25.00 25.00 15.00 25.00

Riding Breeches Gaiters and Leggins

15.00 10 00

Caps

:

Drawers Overalls

15.00 20.00

Jumpers Canvas Coats Hunting Coats Military Garments Capes. Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters

25.00

,

Riding Breeches Shifting Rlock Patterns, short course Shifting Block Patterns, full course Spacing

Grading .Anatomical divisions and heights and widths for Sizing Patterns

Form Growth

Copying Garments Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth SiHni;il mixed courses at special prices.

i

.

.

.

UNDERWEAR

50.00 25.00 15.00

'

Shirts

25.00 50.00 50.00 25.00 25.00 50.00 25.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 25.00 50.00

Night Rohes Chemises

$ 25.00 25.00 20.00 20.00

Drawers Corset Covers

Under Skirts Drop Skirts Spacing Grading

15.00 15.00 25.00 50.00 50.00

:

.Anatomical divisions of heights and widths Form Growth for Sizing Patterns

Copying Garments Special mixed courses

.50.00

2500 at

special prices.

FUR GARMENTS Drafting hv proportion from heights and widths Jackets and Coats Capes and Collarettes T;ukrlÂŤ. Ciiats. Capes and Ccillarettcs toaether

:

$ .WOO 25.00 50.00

Stone's Scientific System

40

of Grading Patterns

PfWtTICAl. CUTTER ANDTI\ILOR '/ '^

CORRESFVNDENCE MuiTiN *atAStS BE ADDRESSEOTO

T>1E

ISSUfO H0NTHL1 ii'L-'PCR tiAR

TELEPHONE MAIN 4972

C/j icci^o

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