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STONE'S SCIENTIFIC SYSTEM OF GRADING
Patterns For Men's By
Garments
the Proportions of Heights and of the
Human Form
CHAS.
j:
STONK
CHICAGO,
ILL.
PUBLISHED BY
THE
CHAS. J. STONE CO. CHICAGO
Widths
COPYRIGHTlin 1912 BV Chas. I. Stonk Co.
Thu
7.
I
4 fo-oa /J/VT
1 INTRODUCTORY U.
experienced
pattern cutters that
wliile
breast coat
designers
man
for a 33 breast
will
too small, and a 43 breast coat for a
measuring 43 breast in llic
Miiall
Mzes
actual
come out
will
it is
by a
alike, but
that
we grade
First of
sizing
in
knows
that
garments the
is
impossible to draft
scientific
method of grading
it
correct increase and decrease in
same shape and outlines
be too large, and
cutter
number of
possible to produce any
be
man
small and tbe larger sizes,
cutters have also discovered that
two patterns
will
practice tbe
Besides these difficulties
large.
and
actual practice
garment drafted 38 breast man will lit properly, a 33
a
a 38 size
t'lr
garment
know from
as in
mc
let
impress ujwn the student's mind,
that grading can not be
done by angling out from any imaginary jwint (simply starting somewhere, may land you nowhere). The grading of patterns means an equal increase and decrease in size, but the breast, waist size, the
and
remember
seat increases,
that while
one inch for each
height does not increase in the
same proportions
as the breast, hence the angled out lines do not give the proper increase and decrease desired.
Second, do not attempt to grade from youth's to men's nor from slims to stouts, for they are all of diflferent types,
cutters
44, waist 46, seat 46.
we have
Fourth,
The The
the stubs.
stout stubs. fat stubs.
The corpulent stubs. .Ml 5 feet I'^ifth,
6 inches
we have
in height.
the youths.
Height 5 feet 7 inches. Breast 36, waist 31, seat 38. N'oTii.
sizes
—'To
down
grade
and divide
30 breast space down four
to
into five parts. Trcjlisers.
sizes
from.
all
— Breast
patterns with the
and with the the original model pattern all
Corpulents
All 5 feet 8 inches in height.
forms and heights, and so classed by experienced and designers.
For regular trousers use pattern 34 waist, 39 seat, with knee and bottom size to prevailing style. I'^or stout men's use pattern 38 waist. 40 seat. For fat men's use pattern 42 waist, 43 seat. I'^or corpulent men's use pattern 46 waist, 46 seat. Increase and decrease waist inch and increase and 1
^
decrease seat
inch for each size.
In grading patterns,
form, then proceed to
first
cut a model for each type of
make
the different grades.
.\s previously stated, the small sizes get too small
and
the large sizes get too large, so in grading, space
for
four sizes and divide the spaces into five parts, thereby
decreasing the large sizes
and
increasing
the
smaller
sizes.
In the normal i)atterns start with size 38, go up four
from 38 to 42. divide this into five parts and 42 become size 43, then go down four sizes from 38 to 34, divide this into five parts and 34 will be size 33. Sack overcoats are graded on same lines as the regular sizes will
Classifications. First
comes the
ular normal man.
man measuring
regulars, that
The
is,
patterns for the reg-
model pattern is cut for a feet 8 inches, breast 38, waist
first
in height 5
and trousers to correspond. Second comes the tails and slims, height 6
Third
is
— Breast 40, waist Fats — Breast waist 42, seat
38, seat 41.
42,
— In
laying
out
the
grade,
feet,
38 and 21
is
for 42,
which
is
4
—21
sizes.
use all
an
ordinary
over; 19
This
is
is
for
divided into
5 parts as will be further explained with the grades.
the stouts, fats, and the corpulent.
Stouts
Note.
square and use the divisions 19
34, seat 39, with vest
breast 36, waist 32, seat 37.
sack coat.
43.
Note. allel
—Tools to
rulers
be used
:
Projwrtional divider, par-
and perforating needle, besides the ordinary
tailor's square.
Stone's Scientific System
of Gradimj Patterns
DIAGRAMS A AND B
A — The
Diagram
grading pajjer as line
A,
llackparl
])er
F and G
I.ay the pattern so that the
from
straight line
and
1
Top
with line line
li-l'\
D-Q on
find 19
to J to
is
K
B through
The
first
inch in
is •>4
copy off the back.
point
G
F",
E-O
parallel
is
and square out
42 or 21 on divis-
is
on the square.
on 3rds and
is
K
to
L
on
8ths.
is
>^ inch.
is
on 3rds and
line
is
2 to 3
is
on
6ths.
line
The
solid
heavy
Square breast
line
^4 inch
is
on
8ths.
a parallel line
more than
through
line
through
1
N
and
from
K fm
I
O
to
N.
and draw
a
parallel line
for 2.
O and 2 by end of roll of neck gorge.
Parallel
N and
U
lapel
is
U
to
V
is
V
to
Y
is
H
through
to
from 8
1.
and point 3
is
break of
X
and
is |)arallel
",s
roll at
inch.
with breast
line.
on 4ths and 6 to 7 on 6ths. Q to R is on 4ths. Set spacer on 5 and divide all the marked
3.
all
on 5ths or
is
P to S is on 4ths and S to T on 12ths. Draw line through P-T and jiarallel from 5 to
5 to 6 is on 3rds and 6 to 7 on 6ths. D to Q is on 3rds. Set spacer on 5 and divide
The
O
to
Draw
Line P-S
S(|uare out to 2. a line
for AI.
X and
to
I
line E.
point O.
K
W
(J to
Draw
from
by breast
on 5ths or T/^ inch. on 6ths. Draw line through U-Y.
3rds.
P on 12ths. through E and P and a parallel
the sleeve notch.
L
through
K
line
I
F.
Parallel 3-4 by I-K.
for point 9.
H
and
to J is on 3rds and J to line through I and K.
Draw Draw
then square
on 3rds.
1
Draw
I
C
19 to 21 on divisions
O
to to
the 38 size pattern.
G
I'j inch from
is
Draw line from II L to M is on 3rds.
pattern being size 38,
Draw line through G and L. F to M is on 3rds and M to N on Draw line through F and N.
N E
The heavy
I.
of sidebody, line
divisions, the next pattern
ions, so the space is
A G
is
bottom part
Si|uare up line iron}
bottom.
at
a straight Hne on
in this ])osition
S<|uare a line across from breast line L'-\'.
— Draw
11
A, U, S and
line
T, C, U, E,
1!,
Square up front shoulder point
Prelim iNARv)
(
6
over. 5
8 for
9.
is
parts.
The 42
pattern
will
be
.size
off grades into 43,
which
is
correct.
Fouep.xrt.
The
lines represent the
by front
line .\,
?>,
forepart size 38.
C.
V
under the arm
is
moved backwards and forwards
t)n Sths.
The pockets arc lengthened and shortened on
Sths.
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Putt cms
Stone's Scientific System of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM Diagram
Câ&#x20AC;&#x201D; The
C-D
Backpartâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; The heavy
line
repre-
and the grade is laid out the same Space up and out 4 sizes and divide as in Diagram A. all these spaces into 5 parts, then space off up and down on all the various lines from 38 up to 43 and 46 and down to 34, thus giving us the complete grade from 34 sents a 38 size back,
to 46.
D
graded the same as forepart B, usout 4 sizes from 38 to 42. DiSpace ing a 38 pattern. making 42 to size 43. Space up vide this into 5 parts,
The
forepart
and down on 34.
The
V
all
is
(he various lines
under the arm
is
up
to
46 and down to
The pockets
not graded.
are graded on 8ths or as small a space as you can make. No further ex])lanation is needed on this grade, as it is
made
precisely the
same
as
been increased and decreased sizes.
Diagram
.\-I>,
to the smaller
only
it
has
and the large
Stone s Scientific System of Grading Patterns
Stone's Scientific System
)0
of Gradiny Patterns
DIAGRAM E E
Diagram 4_'
is
coat,
In grading fat man's patterns start
42 waist.
breast,
Sack
the forepart of a fat man's
from 21 to li and making the 46 size 47. Extend the grades up to 50 and down to 38. By using the division of 5 it will decrease the lar,^er sizes and increase the The back is graded the same as the orsmaller ones. dinary Sack coat. The heav\- line represents the 42 with 42 breast and space 4 sizes
divide these in 5 parts,
In squaring the breast line lay S(|uare back
pattern.
inch from
A
to
B
at the
inch for every inch of
waist
line,
with
\\'-X.
is
C-D
Breast line
E
Shoulder point
is
E to F is on 3rds, E 14 is 1 line through E and C,. Draw a line from 14 through L.
end
at
then
is
luared
s
1
of an
^/^
Lay corner of square
fat.
of lapel and square line \\'-X. parallel
which
up
G
on 8ths. inch from 12 Draw a is on I. to and 13. of on size. break line lapel 42 is the 3rds. Line J-W from E-(l. Draw line a I'arallel line J-K by line E to inch more G to is '4 I'arallel line from G to 1. II. Draw a line thro\i.!.;li 11 and and parallel than E to 11. 1-1. to X is Js inch. line 1-2 by X to Y is on 6ths. fnjm breast
to
line Z.
'
l,
M
I
1
W
1
Draw
a line
through
In II is "s inch.
under the arm.
1) to
and Y. X and P
sidebody line R-S
is
T on
X
D
and
to
to C) is
close
Draw
is
')
'^ inch.
first
drawn on to
th.-
Top ol
together.
R
10
taken oul
the \
is
with X-Q.
parallel
12ths.
.\
X-Q
lireast line
pattern with points
4ths and S to
W
S
a line through
is
R
on and
by R-T. U to V is on 4ths. under the arm moves backwards and forwards on Sths. Line 34-35 is parallel with il and 33. The \' moves forwards and backwards from P and O on Sths.
T and
parallel line 16-17
The
V
The
first
\'
in
Uqiel line 24-2S.
the 42 coat
Line 3-4
is is
parallel
by the notch of
the front and line 3-6 the
opening of the V. Line 7-8, the end of the \' is parallel with line 3 and 4. Set spacer on 5 and divide all Shoulder point E is 42, G is 47, these spaces. is 47, 30 is 50, 31 is 38. 28 is 50, 29 is 38, L is 42. is is is Front \V 47. 20 42, Y 50, 21 is 38, 10 is 42, 11 is In the sideâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; R is 42. T is 47. 40 47, i7 is 50, 38 is 38. Th.e ])ockets in the front at is 50 and iK)int 39 is iS. ii are lengthened and shortened on Sths.
M
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
11
Stone's Scientific System
12
of Grading Patterns
FROCK COATS
starting witli a size 38 pattern.
same as the Sack coats Diagram F 1.
A T
8ths.
The Frock to
Z
is
to
U
is
coats are graded the
K
Draw
L
M
to
is
is
X
to
is
to
R
is
V
on
\'.
on and N through ]\1 and
to
O
on
Draw
12ths.
The
(J.
37
notch, s(|uare out to Q.
on
V
is
6ths.
and
line
is
parallel with line 36-37.
back.
Line 27-29
is
parallel with 26-28.
Break
Y
line 30-31 is parallel
to 21 is
21 to 22
Di.\(;r.\m 5
i)oint
tnj)
F
2.
of sidebody by breast
W.
18 to 19
is
19 to 20
is
18
on 12ths and 6 to 7 on 8ths. Draw line through 3 and 7. ') to 10 is on 3rds. 10 to 1 and 8 to 12 is on 6ths and 12 to 13 on 8ths. ]')raw lines through 8 and 13 and 9 and 11. 8 and 9 is the 38 size and 13 and 11 is the 42 size. 5 is the 38 and 7 is the 42 size spaced.
line
Draw is
line
28 to 29.
38
is
parallel with
Draw
Point 14 remains the same.
is
to 2
is
Point 32
Draw
38
size.
6ths.
through
Y
and
22.
J 8 inch.
on
6ths.
through 18 and 20.
and 20 is the 42. on 4ths and 16 to 17 on through 15 and 17.
6ths.
is
parallel with breast line.
on 8ths and is l'/^
3,
to
4
is
the same.
inch up and back from the scye.
a line from 32 through 33 for 34.
Divide 3.
inch.
on
the 38 and 17 the 42 size.
Line 1-2 1
is
line
33 to 34
The Forepart â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Diacr.xm F line represents the
15
with line 23-25.
the 38
15 to 16
1
%
is
is
The heavy
parallel line
36.
Line 39-40
Sii>F,noi)Y
Square up thnnigli 6
to 26.
and 27 and
2()
parallel with line 26-27
Draw
line
more than 23
through
sleeve notch.
C to (i and D to E is on 6ths. F to F is on 12ths. Draw line through D and F. Tiri-;
is
'4 incii
is
line
line 42.
36-37.
Draw line through P-R for C-D is the length of the 38
5 to
1.
25 to 27
to
inch. 3r<ls
Draw line P is sleeve
Q
X, Y, 42,
%
U
line
S
line
on 3rds and K to L on 3rds. through J and L.
on 3rds. on 3rds and
Draw hnc through T and J to
Square breast
Square up through shonliicr point 23 by breast 23 to 24 is on 3rds. 24 to 25 is on 8ths. Draw line through 23 and 25. Draw line from 23 to 26. Draw parallel line from 25 for 27.
is
all
on 3rds. these spaces into 5 jiarts and the largest
become complete grade of Frock
tern spaced 42 will
size 43.
for
coats.
i)at-
See Diagram
F
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
^^
Stone's Scientific System
14
of Grading Patterns
FROCK COAT. DIAGRAM F Complete Grade. having studied the preceding diagram the student famiHarized himself with the general layout of the
r.y
lias
grade, so
it
will be
unnecessary to go into
The
ail
the pre-
heavy lines represent the 38 Space out four sizes from 38 to 42, 19 to 21 size coat. on divisions, as cxjilained in Diagram F, 1, 2 and 3. limiiiar)- details.
solid
5 parts, thus making the 42 size Extend all lines up and down and continue the spaces up and duwn to the largest and smallest pattern In the i>attern the largest is 46 and the smallest desired. The waist length of the back is lengthened and 34. is
Divide these sjjaces into
43.
shortened on Oths.
The
foreparts
and sidebodies are
lengthened and shortened on 6ths, which will leave the length of the skirts the same.
The A, n,
C and D
is
Skirt.
the 38 skirt.
Draw
a straight line
A
through B for ])oints E-G. It is easier to grade a .s(|uare corner than one that is round, .so for the beginner it is better to square out the corners and grade them square and afterwards round the corners. The bottom
from
of the skirt rounds back to point
down
J,
but in this case
it
has
forward and back from D. A line may be drawn just above the round of the skirt and graded if so desired. The increase of the skirt in width from B to E and D to F is 1^ inch or two inches less the increase of the back at Divide the distance between B and E, D and waist line. tive parts, go forward 3 spaces from E to G and F, into F to II for the 46 size and come back four spaces from Shape top to each r. to I and D to J for the 34 size. point in front from ])oint K, top of hip.
been s(|uared
to point
D.
S(|uare
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
13
Stone's Scientific SystcKi
16
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM G The hea\y
Paletot.
Tin-:
graded the same as the Frock Coat. Start grathng with a size 40 pattern and space off four Use 20 to 22 on divisions. sizes from 40 to 44. Tlic
I'aletot
is
G
A, B, O, L, F,
A
to
V
is
G
to II
is
the size 40 back.
is
on 6ths. on 6ths and
Draw hne through
II to
and
Ci
K
to J is on 3rds and J to Draw line tlirough F and K.
K L
to 10
to
M
is '/s
is
on 3rds,
3 to
inch.
on 3rds and
5 is sleeve notch.
.\I
tn
.\
S(|uare out to
6.
is
to
Draw
the 40 sidebody.
on 3rds. 21 to 22 and 20 to 23 is on 6ths. 23 to 24 is on 8ths. Draw line through 20 and 24 for 2b and 26. Draw line through V) and 22 for 27 and 28. is
25-28
size 36, 20-19 is
is
size 40,
24-22
size 48.
Point 29 remains stationarx'. Till-: l'"ouiir.\RT.
Square breast
line
A, B, C, D.
3.
to 2.
for the 40 ccat.
line
with line L-.M up and
down from O.
is
1
and
6.
through
line
and X.
\'
and 10 through ') and
7s inch
is
line
tn 11 (.n Oths. 11.
parallel with line 12-13.
is
the size 40 coat.
is
the side
seam
;
The
increase
from
on 8ths. 27 and 22 is the forepart and
skirt
parallel with breast line.
is
out to the 44 size
is
of the 40 coat. .\
cut out as from 27 to 22 extending up to 40.
\' is
22 to 23
Draw
is
line
on 8ths and 23 to 24 on 6ths. through 22 and 24.
Parallel
27 with
Line 40
is
line
25 and 26.
paralleled by 25
and
26.
Divide distance between 22 and 24 into 5 i)arts, then run up and down to 26 and 25. Divide lines 28-29 and
is
line
40 with same spaces.
on 4ths and 31 to 32 on 6ths. through 30 and 32 and divide into 5 parts, then space up and down for the 48 and 36 sizes. The skirt runs from 22 through 30 to 35 and down to 43. 35 to 36 is on 6ths and 36 to 37 is ^^ inch. Draw line through 35 anil 37 and divide into 5 parts, go up to 38 for 48 size and down to 39 for the 36 size. Line 43 is parallel with line ,38-,19 and the divisions are
30 to 31 Divide into
5 parts.
26-27
is
D
is
size 48.
19 to 21
I
for
W
is
Line 42
12 from breast
line
1') is
\'
to notch of lapel 2,
I
through 2 and 3 and parallel lines to X is on 6ths. ',s inch and
line
W
9 to 10
30
Points 20 and
the
is
I.
uj)
more than
34 inch
is
])arallel
Draw
on 12ths and 13 to 14 is on Sths. through point 12 and 14 for 15 and 16, then draw parallel line 17 and 18 for the seam. 16 is size 36, \H>'ml 12 is 40, jxiinl 14 is 45 and point 15 12 to 13
inch
I
Draw
\' to
line 11.
Draw
K
Line E-l' iioint
coat.
C
a line
Draw
Tin-; SujiiiiODY.
through top of sidebody
a line
\
D u])
40
line
Lines R-S and T-l' are parallel with O-P.
is
Square
!'/>
is
Point
on 12ths.
on 6ths. Draw line through 6 and 7. B to U and O to P is on 6ths. P to Q is on 12ths. Draw line through O and Q. Divic.e all these spaces into 5, go up to 48 and down 36, or up and down to any other sizes desired.
6 to 7
the size
and K. from shoulder point then draw a iJarallel line from K
1.
!<
is
from breast
u])
Point 14
Draw Draw
on Sths.
1
line
through shoulder point and back from armscye. Draw line from 14 through 15. 15 to 16 is on 3rds. 1 to J is on 3rds and J to K on 8ths.
Square
size
45 and
Draw
is
line
the same.
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
)7
Stone's Scientific System
18
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM H Till-:
The Raglans are graded tlic same as the regular Sack coats. Use a size 40 to grade from. The heavy lines 40
indicate the
The
Raglan.
Draw
A
to
V
Back.
on 3rds. C is on 3rds. D is on 8ths. is
B to C to Draw
line
Point
F
through
is
and D.
the sleeve notch. tlie
F to G is on 3rds and G to Q on Draw line through F and Q. Line
H
to
Draw Draw
O
to
line line
P
2 to 3
Divide
W,
on 3rds and
is
is
through
M-X
on
12ths.
and 4
and 3 L and 5
The bottom
part
D. Q, P,
and 18
is Jfi is
line
on
inch.
6ths.
through 25 and 27,
28 for the 48
size
is
30
to 31
on
is
go up to
sjiace into 3 jiarts,
and down
to
the top of sidebody of the
30
line 6-8 front
])oints.
26 to 27
Draw
the l)reak of roll at neck.
is
20 and 21 with
29 for the 36
40
size.
size.
4ths.
31 to 32 on 12ths.
these spaces into 3 parts.
K
roll
iJie
25 to 26
I.
on 3rds.
all
top.
end of
shoulder
with line K-L.
i)arallel
''4
Parallel break line 18-19,
on 3rds.
T. R, X.
coat.
and
II
X, U, S, M,
\',
to J
I
is
is
line
6tlis.
with line E, F.
is ])arallel
is
I
25
inch at point O.
'/,s
ll-l
is
inch more than 6 to 9. through 9 and 10 and parallel line 14-15. The lines for the \"s are parallel with front of notch line 9-10. The bottom of the \' is on a parallel with
Draw
Scjuare across at point F.
Reduce
line C.
8ths.
is
line
8 to 10
P,
of sidebody.
to])
through shoulder point 6 from breast
on 3rds and 7 to 8 on through 6 and 8. 6 is forwards of 11 and points 7 and 8 forwards of 12. Draw line from 6 to 9 and jiarallel line from 8 for 10.
Draw
The
breast line across at
.^c|uare u])
6 to 7
size jjattern.
Foreiwkt.
I
is
is
the 48 size.
Draw
line
through 30 and 32 and di\ide up and down for
all sizes.
is
the 45 size.
Draw
parallel line 37-38 for the seam.
is
the 36 size.
34-38
is
graded the same as the regular Sack
33-37
size 36, is
30-35
is
size 40,
32-36
is
size
45 and
size 48.
Point at 39
is
on 4ths and
at
40 same as
at breast line.
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
10
20
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM The Forepart
I
nouni.E Breasjed Fkcjck
oi-
The Double Breasted Frock is graded the same as the The heavy line is the 38 size
Single Breasted Frock.
Forepart. Sc|uare breast line and s(|uare up line
C
through front
shoulder point. Point Z
Draw
lj4 inch from 24 and 25.
is
a line from
Z through F. on 3rds and I to J on 8ths. Draw a line through E and J. Draw a line from E to D and parallel a point K.
E
to I
is
K
J to
Draw
^
is
inch
more than E
D
through
line
line
from J
for
to D.
and K.
inch and H to ^[ is '^ inch. on 6ths. Draw line through H and N. G to Q is on 4ths and O to R on 6ths. Draw a line through G and R. B to 1 is on 8ths and 4 to 5 on 8ths.
A
M
L
to
to
%
is
N
is
I.ine 6-7 is ])arallel
F
to 21
8 and 12
with breast
line.
on 3rds.
is
the break line of lapel.
is
Parallel 8-9 by line l'>-20. I.ine 14-15
The
parallel with line O-P. graded only on length according to length of
is
lapel is
forepart.
The
collar
increased 1-16 inch
is
the back, in
all
in
3-16 inch for each
and 2-16
front
in
size.
Collars.
Diagram
1.
for ordinary
Collars
Sack and Frock coats
crease in length 3-16 inch for every size.
Of
will this
in-
1-16
goes to the front end and 2-16 to the back.
Diagram
2.
Convertible collars increase in size }4 inch for every
Of
size.
Diagram
The
this
'(^
added
is
in
front and -4 in the back.
Blouse Collars.
3.
of neck is }i inch for each size of breast, hence the increase of half of the collar is inch, which increa.se
^
is all
added
in the back.
Diagram 4. The Ulster lars. all
The
added
collar
is
increase
is
in the back.
graded the same as the Blouse }i
col-
inch for every size of breast,
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
21
9'>
Stone's Scientific Systeh)
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM The Dress Coat
J
Front.
The Dress Coat is graded the same as the regular Frock Coats. The heavy Hues represent the 38 size from which to grade.
Draw
hreast line and square
through front shoulder
u])
B from breast line A. is Q 15^ inch up and forwards from armscye. Square up from Q through O. O to P is on 3rds. B to C is on 3rds and C to D on 8ths. Draw line through B and D. E is the dart. Parallel up and down from E by front of shoulders B-D. point
F
is
front of dart.
F up and down
Parallel
for 8-11 by
line 14-15.
Parallel
line
36-37 by line 8-11 and line 20-21
is
on a
parallel with line 36-37.
Draw
a
line
from B
to
C and
|)arallel
a line
from
D
from
H
for K.
D
K
to
Draw
y^ inch
is
more than B
a line through
to C.
C and K and
parallel a line
for L, 12 and 13.
Lines K-J, 10-11 and 9-8 are on a parallel with line G, F. Lines K-L, 10-13 and 12-9 are parallel with G-H.
S
to
T
is
Js inch
and
T
to
U
is
on
6ths.
Draw
a line through S and LJ for points 24 and 25. Line V, is on a parallel with line S. U.
W
Line 28 to 29 is up on 6ths and forwards on 8ths. Lines 32-53 and 34-35 are parallel with line 30-31.
R
to
X
Draw
is
on 4ths and
a line through
X R
to
and
Y Y
on
6ths.
for points 22-23.
2 to 3 and 6 to 7 is on 8ths. Divide into five parts the same as on the Frock coats. Back and sidebodv are the same as on the Frock coats.
Stone's Scioitific System
of Grading Patterns
2i
Stone's Scientific System
24
of Gradin(/ Patterns
DIAGRAM K K
Diagram
V
line represents the
Draw
a
policeman's
taken out at neck gorge.
The heavy
represents
overcoat with no
40
front
the
of
size forepart.
the usual breast line B,
E
and
1.
Line A, B, C is the front center. St|uare up from breast line E through front shoulder point E.
E to G is on 3r(ls and G to 11 on 8ths. Draw a line through E and H. Draw a line from E to .\ and a parallel
H
to
from
line
H
for
L
Ijoint
is
I
which together with the
inch,
4,s
crease of the width of back at top
makes
it
'4
inch in-
^
inch in-
crease of the neck gorge.
Draw
a line through
O
Line D,
D X
O
A
and
Draw
?',s
inch.
through
O
for point Q.
Y
J,s
to
to
is
is
is
\'
the
Q
center line
U
\'
to \'
the
same
to
W and
Draw
Draw
line
Line T-9
K
is
Point Z
Draw
line
center line
C
from
1
as
at
first
to
second
R
to
bottom of forepart.
is
the
C
to
same as C
to
Q
and from
C
is
Q.
C to 8 is on 6ths. from U through and from R through C. on 6ths and 6 to 7 is "j^ inch.
is
to
center
taken out.
W
line
S to 6
1
parallel J for K.
front
Measure distance between
Erom
and
inch.
T
Line R, S,
1
2J4 inches below B.
is
through 5 and is
the
is
7.
parallel with line S-7.
same as
.A to J.
ly, inch forward and up from armscye.
from Z through L. DU 3rds. to 2 is on 8ths, 3 to 4 is on 4ths and 4 to ? on 6ths. Draw line through 3 and 5, divide all these spaces into 1
,
to
a line
M
is
1
five parts.
The
back, sidebody and skirts are graded the
the regular Erock coats.
same
as
Stone's Scicntifii- System
of Gradiiuj Patterns
25
26
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAMS L-M Diagram is
L
is
the Dress Coat Skirt.
M, X.
O
and
P
the 38 size skirt.
M
Square out from through P to R is on 4ths and N to
N
and from
Q
is
{'/^
O
througli P.
inch or whatever
the increase of the forepart and sidebody
may
vide space into 5 parts, then go forward to for the 46, and back Shape top part from
to
W
be.
Di-
S and T
U
and V for the 34 size. forward to all the different
points.
Diagram AI is the skirt for the double breasted Frock. C and D is the 38 size skirt. Draw a line from A through B. B to E and C to F is 2 inches less the increase width of back on 12ths. Divide distance B to E and C to F into 5 parts, then go forward to G-ll for 46 and l)ack to I-J for 34 size. Shape top of skirt from point K, center of hip forward A, B,
to all the different sizes.
Stone's Scientific System
27
of Grading Patterns
G
E
B
Âť
Stone's Scientific System
28
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM N Till-
The heavy line represents Draw a straight line A.
Sleeve. the 38 size sleeve. C through front center of
11,
sleeve.
Square a
U
to
E
line
is .)4
through inch and
D E
from C. to F is on
6ths.
G and H. and F M is halfway between 1) and C on 38 size and N is halfSijuare up way between C and E, the spaced 42 size. a line through
Draw
1)
for
M
and N. Square up and down line C, M, N. to J R to
I
is
O
a line at
I
where sleeve top crosses
on 6ths. on 4ths.
is
O and P for T and P and D, and V between U is halfway tween O and F. Draw a line through U and \'. L'-\' is the same as D-F.
Draw
a line through
S. is
halfway be-
Go out on 8ths. Divide spaces into 5 parts. sizes. smaller for the larger and in for the lines 8, 9, Y and 2. The 38 size vuidersleeve is shown by 6-7 by top sleeve hue line 2, 3, 4 and 3, also line
Yto
10
is
Parallel
G-H. as top
same spaces Space the underslccve on line !-}< the sleeve on line D, F. same as the top The undersleeve at bnttom is spaced the sleeve.
Stone's Scientific System
29
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM O Tufi
Draw
Raclax Slkevk.
front center line A,
1!
D
from point
S(|uare across
and
L'.
outside corner of the 40 size
outside top sleeve. to
1)
E
Draw
is
}i inch and
line
Line 15-16 Point
K
is
through is
D
E
to F is on 6ths. and F for G and
Co up from K on 3rds and which is top sleeve of the 44 Run line through K and L and divide io uji to N for the 48 and down to
top of 40 sleeve.
back on 6ths for point spaced sleeve. into 5 parts. ir
fi
(
I.,
M
the 36 size.
Lines O. P, .At
11.
parallel with line H-Cl.
Q
are parallel lines with line
hand, point T, the increase I'liK
The top Draw a
part
is
Inside
is
on
M-N.
16ths.
Top Slefvk.
at point 6.
6-7 by front center line. on 3rds and 7 to 8 on 8ths. Draw a line through 6 and 8. Divide into 5 parts up to 10 for 48 and down to 9 for 36 size. Lines 11, 12, 13 and 14 are all parallel lines with line
6
to 7
i)arallel line
is
9-10.
Draw
line
W-X
W to X ^ is
from 19
inch.
48 and back to Lay pattern top
V at
to D.
Divide into 5 parts out to Z for the for the 36 size.
laying
to])
down to X, which will Shape outside sleeve by Shape down to F, this will
8 and shape
give distance from 2 to
of pattern at L.
3.
locate point 16.
The increase and decrease at hand point The undersleeve is graded the same as coats.
V
is
on
16ths.
for the regular
Stone's Scientific System
30
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM P Vests. Tlie grading of vests In this grade
heavy
line notates the
on the same principle as the with the normal vest. The
is
we
coat.
start
38
normal
size
vest.
Start with
the backpart.
on 3rds. on 3rds and K to L on Draw a line through B and L. and M to N is on 3rds. C to Draw a line through C and N. .\ to
J
H
K
to
is
8ths.
is
M
N D
to
E
to
to
R is inch. Q is on 3rds and Q to S O and F to P is inch. j/^
is
i/^
inch less.
1
Divide for
these points into 5 parts.
all
and down 4 more
4f),
The The heavy point
16 to 17
Draw
38 front part.
line
6 through front shoulder
inch up and back from armscye. from 15 through 16.
on 3rds.
is
on 3rds and 8 to 9 is on 8ths. a line through 7 and 9 and parallel 10-11 by is
3 to 4
Draw
more
1^
is
a line
7 to 8
3 points
size.
7.
Point 15
Draw
34
Forepart.
line indicates the
Square up from breast
Go up
[Kiints for
is
^
inch and 4 to 5
a line through 3 and
18 to 21 and 19 to 22
20 to 23 and Divide
all
to
24
is
^
in
piece
on
5.
inch.
5.
go out three spaces for
four spaces for 34 is
7-9.
6ths.
'i inch.
these spaces into
46 and go
The neck
1
is
is
size
size.
lengthened on 3rds plus 34 inch from
12 to 13.
0-14
is
Draw
parallel with 11-12.
a line through 12 and 14 and parallel 13, giving the points for the different size of neck piece.
all
Stone's Scientific System
31
of Gradiny Patterns
H-
28 22
19
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM Q Fat Men's Vest. In this diagram
we have the vest for the fat man, The heavy Hnes indicate the size
breast 42, waist 42.
42 breast vest.
The
Backi'art.
on 3rds. P> K is on 3rds and K to L is on Draw a Hne through K and L. C to M and M to N is on 3rds. Draw a line througli C and N. .\
to J to
is
N
to
O
D
to
P
is
E
to
Q
and F
Divide
is
'yi
inch.
on 3rds
all
8ths.
to
less
R
%
is 1
inch.
inch.
these sjiaces into 5 parts.
48 and down 4
s])aces for the
38
(
io
out 3 spaces for
size.
TlIK FORKPAKT. C"onK' back at waist line
back from
U
.S(|uare u])
from breast
Point 5
1^4 inch
is
1
inch as from
.S
to
T
and square
for breast line.
uji
1 through shoulder point 2. and out from armscye. Draw a
line
from 5 through 7. on 3rds. 2 to 3 is on 3rds and 3 to 4 on 8ths. Draw a line through 2 and 4. U to 9 is .>4 inch and 9 to 10 is on Gths. Draw a line through U and 10. 11 t(j 12 and Z to 13 is ->4 inch. \' to 15, to 16, X to 17 and Y to 14 is '4 line
7 to 8
is
W
Divide
all
these spaces into 5 parts,
48 and down 4 parts for 38 Divide into 5 parts.
size.
inch.
come out 3 18 to 19
is
parts for '4 inch.
33 Stone's Scientific System of Grading Patterns
Stone's Scientific System
34
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM R Trousers. In
to
B
is
to
N
is
Draw
D V. 1
to
P
'
r.
.M
to to
P
and
'/,
is
inch and
33
U
'
J
is
is
U
all
Q
is
111
13
_'
i/s
is
is
'
J
inch.
\'
to
and
'..,
3 to 17
is
.'s
-Vs
line F. S.
5-16
i)arts.
1
is
and
'
is
and
inch.
inch.
_.
'
_,
inch.
lo.
)raw a line
inch and 4 to 18 to 18
out 3 spaces for
io
14,
1()
1
(
for waist 30.
KI'AIM.
I'.At
tn 14
inches.
incli.
on 16ths.
15 to
Shape line from 17 5 and 23.
^
is
come hack 4 spaces
and 13
is i'.t
is
a line thnuij^h
on Sths.
is
a line through 2
to 35 is
is ->^
these sjiaccs into 5
7 to 8
6 to 24
S
down from
K
inch and
a line thi'nn.^h
to 15
Draw
is
Draw
inch.
to
TuiC 1
lie
inch.
inch.
..
'
-Vs
F
5 inches
is
waist 42 and
Draw
I
,t;raiie.
y2 inch.
X and (1 to W" V and 11 to Z
Divide
to
liotloni to prevailing; style.
\ tn (J I., C and O.
to
J to
is
Line 32-35 to
inch and
J
T
to
and
i<iiee
and (J. R and
i2 to
1
3'J,
ti>.ii>ers.
from which
the center line.
a line through
to
D
the iinrmal
oiithiic is lliat of the i)attein
Waist 34, seat
A C
we have
(liaj^raii)
tliis
heavy
is
fi'imi
and draw a
Line 34
is
,S
through
4.
"s inch. line
5 inches
from
helow
.\
through
line 4.
34
inch.
9 to 20 and 10 to 19
is
on Sths and 12
on 16ths. 25 to 26 is J-j inch up and Lines 27-28 and 29-30 are
to 21
and
11 to
22
is
Divide
all
'4
inch back.
parallel with line 25-26.
these spaces into live
for waist size 42, and go
down
i)arts.
(io out 3 parts
four parts for size 30
waist. T'or length of leg slide U])
and down on center
line.
Stone's Scientific System
of Gradiufi Patterns
35
Stone's Scientific System
36
of Grading Patterns
DIAGRAM
S
TiiK Fat Men's Trousers.
The heavy
'I'lie
Forepart. 42 waist forepart from
line .shows the
vvhicli
to grade.
the center line.
.\, 15 is
C to P is y, and P to Q '4 inch. Draw a hne through C and O.
D
N
to
Draw
E
to
J to
F G
to
/
is
and
X
Z is ^ and I S is 5-16 inch.
Y X
to
and J
is Yfi is
D
is 3.. incli.
and O.
to
R
is
^
to
S
is
5-16 inch.
36 to 37 is 1/2 inch. is on K to T and H to to V is on L to U and
W
Divide
all
is
5 inches
down from G.
8ths.
M
Go
inch.
Line 36
inch.
.)s
O
to
a line through
16ths.
these spaces into 5 parts.
out 3 spaces for 50 waist and
down 4
spaces for 38
waist.
The Hackpart. 1
to 12 is y.
Draw
2 to 14
Draw
to 13
is
y
and 14
1
13.
to 15 is "4 inch.
4 to 17 is
Draw
is
jV^
25
inch.
is
a line from is
6
Draw
a
down from
4.
38 to
is
A
J^ inch.
7 to 20 is
10 to 23 and 11 to 22 all
and
for 5
18.
j^ inch.
8 to 21 and 9 to 24
Divide
5 inches
is
7.
4.
ys inch.
5 to 18
to 19
38
J^ inch.
inches above
is 2)/2
from 25 through point
line
Go
"4 inch.
is
and
a line through 2 and 15.
3 to 16
39
and 12
a line through
on is
is
5-16 inch.
8ths.
on
16ths.
these spaces into 5 parts.
out 3 spaces for the 50 waist and come back four
spaces for the 38 waist.
For
leng'th of leg' slide
up and down on center
line.
Stone's Scientific System
of Grading Patterns
37
38
Stone's Scientific System
of Gradiiiij Patterns
:
:
:
:
:
39
Stone's Scientific Systevt
of Grading Patterns
TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION Til
I:K
I'AMI
LADIES'
MIVWCl
IN'
Preliminary
Course
GARMENTS
Proportionate
Methud, drafting
from
heights and widths:
Dress Waists
MEN'S GARMENTS
measure method Coats alone
$ 30.00
Vests alone Trousers hy actual measure Coals. Vests and Trousers together .Advanced course in drafting coats, short measure
20.00 20.00 50.00 vest-- and trousers hy the
method
Coats alone
$ 3000
V^ests alone
20.00 20.00 50.00 short
Trousers hy actual mea-ure Coats. Vests and Trousers together
Mixed courses:
Proportions,
measure methods comhincd
shoulder
measure
and
.$ 50.00
75.00
lOOOO
to .\pply Individuality in Cutting
Make up Garments
$15 to Practical Course Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting the goods, trimming up of garments and trving on.... to
Blouses Jackets Bo.\ Coats C;apes Skirts ..,. .
Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts together .\dvanccd Courses: Drafting hy proportion and actual ure methods
Dress Waists
50.00 i
$
Shirt Waists
Blouses Jackets Box Coats C.apes Skirts hy actual measure Dress Waists, Blouses. Jackets together
RIDING
25.(X)
25.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 15.00 25.00
Coats, Capes and Skirls
5000 II.\BITS
:
Coats alone Coats and Vests together Coats, Vests and Trousers
How How
15.00 is.no 15.00 15.00 15.00 10.00 15.00
Shirt Waists
Preliminary course in drafting hy proportions from heights and widths $ 30.00 Coats alone 20.00 \'csts alone 20.00 Trousers alone 50.00 Coals, Vests and Trousers together .\dvanced course in drafting coats and vest-; liy shoulder
25.00 25.00
Jackets Side Saddle Riding Skirts Divided Skirts
$ 25.00 25.00 15.00 25.00
Riding Breeches Gaiters and Leggins
15.00 10 00
Caps
:
Drawers Overalls
15.00 20.00
Jumpers Canvas Coats Hunting Coats Military Garments Capes. Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters
25.00
,
Riding Breeches Shifting Rlock Patterns, short course Shifting Block Patterns, full course Spacing
Grading .Anatomical divisions and heights and widths for Sizing Patterns
Form Growth
Copying Garments Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth SiHni;il mixed courses at special prices.
i
.
.
.
UNDERWEAR
50.00 25.00 15.00
'
Shirts
25.00 50.00 50.00 25.00 25.00 50.00 25.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 25.00 50.00
Night Rohes Chemises
$ 25.00 25.00 20.00 20.00
Drawers Corset Covers
Under Skirts Drop Skirts Spacing Grading
15.00 15.00 25.00 50.00 50.00
:
.Anatomical divisions of heights and widths Form Growth for Sizing Patterns
Copying Garments Special mixed courses
.50.00
2500 at
special prices.
FUR GARMENTS Drafting hv proportion from heights and widths Jackets and Coats Capes and Collarettes T;ukrlÂŤ. Ciiats. Capes and Ccillarettcs toaether
:
$ .WOO 25.00 50.00
Stone's Scientific System
40
of Grading Patterns
PfWtTICAl. CUTTER ANDTI\ILOR '/ '^
CORRESFVNDENCE MuiTiN *atAStS BE ADDRESSEOTO
T>1E
ISSUfO H0NTHL1 ii'L-'PCR tiAR
TELEPHONE MAIN 4972
C/j icci^o
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T\PP 22
1912