Superlativesyste00ston by David Mannock

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Ladies Garments

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

Chap.X-

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Superlative System .OF.,

(utting [odies'

Garments

.BASED UPON.,

SCIENTIFIC, GIVING THE

SURE

AND

SIMPLE

METHOD

CORRECT PROPORTIONS FOR EACH TYPE OF FORM OF

EVERY

SIZE,

WITH VARIATIONS FOR ALL KINDS OF

DISPROPORTIONATE SHAPES AND FORMS

BYl

CHAS.

CHICAGO,

STONE ILL.

ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS, WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF LADIES' GARMENTS

PUBLISHED BY

THE CHAS.

STONE

CO. CUTTING SCHOOL CHICAGO

Copyrighted 1897 by Chas.

Stone

C'o

^GO\C

INDEX, PAGE.

PAGE.

The Melon

Preface, -

Introduction,

Proportion Table,

;

and

Sleeve,

B. Box Overcoat, by Short Measure

Coaching Coat, by Proportions,

60-61 62 63

Proportionate Division,

10-13

Capes,

Proportion

14-15

Bicycle Coat, by Proportions,

70-71

Dress Bodice, by Shoulder Measures,

16-17

Cycling Knickers,

72-73

Dress Bodice, by Short Measure,

18-19

Divided Riding

74-75

Basque, by Shoulder Measures,

20-21

Bicycle Skirt,

D. B. Frock,

22-23

Divided Bicycle

Fancy Waist, by Proportions,

24-25

Bicycle Cap,

Jacket and Vest, by Proportions,

26-27

Leggins,

D. B. Vest, by Proportions,

28-29

Riding Breeches,

7.8-79

Cutaway Frock, by Shoulder Measures,

30-31

Riding Jacket,

80-81

D. B. Cutaway Jacket, by Proportions,

32-33

Riding Skirt,

in Practice,

Long Basque and

Vest,

Principles of Sleeve Cutting,

The Foundation

Riding

by Shoulder Measures, 34-35

Skirt,

Skirts,

64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69

Skirt,

76 Skirt,

Skirt,

84-85, 86-87 88-89, 90-91

Variations,

36, 37. 38, 39

General Information,

40-41

92-93

Our Cutting School,

42, 43. 44, 45

82-83

46-47

Price List of Patterns, Ladies',

48-49

Works on

50-51

Terms

The Leg of Mutton Sleeve,

52-53

Price List of Block Patterns, Gentlemen's,

The New Bishop

54-55

Cutters' and Tailors' Supplies,

D. B. Jacket,

The

Balloon Sleeve,

D. B. Jacket, by Shoulder Measure,

Sleeve,

D. B. Coat, by Proportions,

56-57

(V,

Cutting,

for Instructions,

96 97

PREFACE, jCTT

a fact

This fact is

which observing

tailors will doubtless

tailoring has of late years

marked

emphasized by the realization of cutters and

on the part of many

inability

garments

ladies'

experienced this

have noticed, that

grown more and more important

in the best difificulty

Many

manner.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a

ladies'

to the trade.

tailors that there

meet the demand for the making of tailors

difficulty arising

and hundreds of cutters have

from the absence of any adequate

system of ladies' garment cutting as well as making. It is to

be regretted that works of this nature are lacking.

many works

there are

treating of this subject;

exacting demands of to-day? ples,

think not.

Even

true that

Are they founded on true and invariable princi-

which cutters can implicitly

sweep?

but are they adequate to the

rely

upon

in their daily

work

in all its

range and

the very best existing works on the cutting of ladies'

garments, which assume to have for basis a fundamental principle, are soon

found

be lacking in one respect or another.

these are based on an inadequate

system only half perceived and I

believe that

works on cutting

and simplicity it

In point of fact, too

many

now and

again abandoned in

for the defects fills

not a wrong system, the best of them upon a its

application.

"Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Garments"

work which not only makes up nality, exactness

found

want long

felt

in others,

but in

cutters.

its

origi-

other

based on proportions, using for variations both shoulder

measure and short measure methods, and makes an invaluable companion work to

"Superlative System of Cutting Men's Garments."

most comprehensive work extant, covering

all

is,

believe, the

points in cutting ladies' garments.

THE AUTHOR.

(VI.)

INTRODUCTION. ยงERHAPS

other branch of tailoring can a system based on the pro-

in nr

portions of the body be so well applied as in the making of ladies' garments.

Perfect

woman, and

quite inexcusable in a

many

defects of form and the

There

and grace

fit

the desideratum;

the

difficulties

found

tailor's

awkwardness

for

object to overcome

all

making her garments.

no more beautiful garment than a gown gracefully draped over

the form of a

woman, and there

so far as the tailor

Women

proportions.

clothing than men.

no better method of arriving

end,

this

concerned, than the employment of a system based on

more exacting and particular

are

They demand not

much

utility as

respect to their

beauty.

They demand

perfection in their dress in every pose, every condition, without constraint of

limb or muscle, which would detract from grace; in a word, they demand perfect ease,

well

unincumbered, which

free,

The attainment

this

only obtainable with well

volume.

employment

allows for

making of

cutting and

all

which

skill

art of constructing

costumes

in the

artistically attained

garments according

suit

by the system of proportions. to the variable

forms and

The

basis of the system

styles

determinate, but the style and

always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied

system so that he can bring them into a practical application

day practice

The

made

an attainment that can not be reached without deep study and

actual experience.

fashion

the

parts of ladies' garments, allowing adherence to pre-

demanded and only

The

of the system explained in the pages of

possible variation, originality and

vailing styles, to individual wishes, and that certain unity in a tailor

and

fitting

rather difficult for the cutter and tailor, but

all this is

greatly simplified by the

made garments.

in cutting

garments according

fundamental principle

upon which

in his

every

to the current fashion. this

system

based

the propor-

tionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will give

the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation that he

build on.

The proportionate

over-erect and

when

all

figures

the different lengths correspond with height, and

when

all

the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure

tall

and

sliro

or short and stout and

are those that are neither stooped nor

still

(VII.)

in proportion.

may

INTRODUCTION.

vin.

There I

be found in this work two kinds of proportionate drafts, to which

will

The proportionate

wish to call the cutter's attention.

by the strap and shoulder measures. as follows

shoulder

ponds

that the

find

23^^, half of this

11^,

proper length of strap

page 20-21

will

point

less

strictly

drafted

the upper

proportionate;

one inch makes

10 J^, which corres-

the

on page

17,

from

line

obtained.

be found another draft similar

the only difference being in

the comparison of the two measures

length

measure taken, and by drawing the

to the strap

strap

on page

draft

the depth

of scye.

to the draft

first

glance

would seem

that the two drafts

had been produced by two

observation

be found that they are both the same in principle, although

a different is

will

method has been used

that the shoulder

seam on

methods, but on closer

different

same result. The only

in obtaining the

the draft on page 21

shoulder seam on draft on page 17 at point X.

By studying

The

}^ inch, or is

distance from

normal

}^ inch,

strap,

below top

is 14^

seen at a

breast, plus

used to obtain depth of scye, breast plus

':(

The

inch.

by the shoulder measure.

17, 19, 21, 29, 31, ^^, 47, 51

line

and

71 are all laid out

drawn from point

line of draft as

shown on diagram on

pages 15, 25, 57 and 81, the front shoulder point comes up to top line

drawn from

diagram of proportions on page

making

to Z, thus

longer than in the other method. tlie

scye

17.

of draft as explained in line

and

and from B

height,

is It

and the closing shoulder

thus locating shoulder point

page

in this case regulated

The diagrams on pages for a

the upper shoulder measure

upper shoulder and

distance from

on pages

the draft

14 and 15 the different methods of obtaining the depth of glance.

difference

higher at point 17 than the

average

It is

[)ages

and

but when shoulder measure and strap measure the system as laid out in

illustrations

according to measures as explained

method

The

short measure

The

table of proportions

where the shoulder

found that the majority of ladies are on

inch erect and for the average form

as laid out in the illustration

15,

the front length of strap fully yi inch

15 is

it is

when

fully explained

method

cutting by proportions,

used for variations then

on pages 17 and

in variations

well to use the

21,

on pages 88

use

and make changes to 91.

on pages 18-19 ^^^ 60-61.

not of the ideal form, but of the average.

The

circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the length from the height, as follows: If the breast

opposite that breast measure, and

34, all circumference if

are found opposite that height scale.

the height

measurements are found

5 feet 6 inches all the lengths

PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS. HEIGHT

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

PROPORTIONS. nv Chas.

THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. and professors of

artists

anthrojjology, its

end of the big toe contains eight faces or heads, and on this theory they divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The the toe

estimated to be

2*2

also claim that the proper

height

have the subject

with feet stretched out, or

must be on correct

This

tip-toe.

we want

to find

measure for a lying-down position

in a

standing position

theory

undoubtedly

the correct length of the

and dressmakers this is of less importance. What we want is the division of the parts of the body that we are required to cover, and face, but to tailors

matters not

the face of our client

of an inch longer or shorter, and while

from the crown of the head

one-sixteenth the distance

bottom of heel does

not contain eight times the length of the face, yet find in rectlj'

subdivided into eighths, giving us 64 parts or units for height.

The

division of the female form

as that of the male,

Her shoulders

nearly the same

with the following exceptions:

are narrower,

her waist smaller

and

hips larger, and her arms and legs are shorter than the male.

female to be

consider 5 feet

height of 64 inches

the

average

height

4 inches or 64 inches, is

of if

ys or

g«i.

a trifle longer than this division.

From

The accomj)anying

will

one inch.

It will

be noticed that the face on diagram

top of neck to top of shoulder, as from

is A'.

From to D,

top of shoulder to bottom of scye, as from

is 6%,

which only holds good for the bone

struc-

ture.

—

Note. This distance must be regulated by the diameter of the scye, according to flesh developments, as the distance from N to P is width not (See explanation of wid/hs.)

height.

B E

A D

F F F

waist length and

}i of height.

J^ of the entire

_^ of the height

]^ of height.

length of the body.

and regulates length of arm.

In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease,

and

lean forms increase a

trifle,

according

crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at

H I

to J to J,

J to K,

is 2

in-

units or parts.

4 units or parts.

is 2

units or parts.

"the knee,"

yi.

"lower part of calf,"

L to M, "bottom The length of leg

that of a female figure, such as the ladies'

—

Note.

the

diagram

each unit

THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT.

the

divided into 64 parts or units

tight

used in dividing

top of head to top of neck, as from

practice that this distance can be cor-

divided into eight parts and each of these parts

From

of the entire height.

way

" lacced

them,

find

The following method

the height on the 64th unit theory, measure taken from top of head to bottom of heel:

to the

distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of

They

dressmaker

corset."'

that the entire height, from the

crown of the head

sculptors,

human body and

regarding the height of the

proper division,

Stone.

tailor or

The theory advanced by our most noted painters,

to L, "ankle,"

4 parts.

of heel," will

of entire height.

4 parts.

units or parts less than yi

Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 105. Copyrighted

1897

by Chas.

Stone.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

^ ^ ^

PROPORTIONS. BY Chas.

Stone.

fourth

THE DIVISION OF WIDTH.

4>4

breast,

added

inches,

bust

measure, 36.

The width

divided

into

sixteen

across the pelvis.

The average

breast measure of the female form

34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches.

The proportionate

waist will be

10 inches

less

than

breast, or two-thirds of the bust measure.

The

hips will measure 40^4

entire width across the breast, as

breast measure,

width of back from width of back

The width

one-

from C

to 3

neck

3^. is

to 5

The

Si.

ys.

of shoulders at top are reduced

distance between lines

to 8,

divided into eighths, and the

at top of

the

and 3 as per dotted line, so while the widtli of back from C to 3 is s/g of breast, the width of shoulders is reduced j'j at line B K.

The

entire

width

body

divided

into

six-

teenths of the breast, or eighths on division, and the extra bust whatever

inches, which

The

equal parts.

Note these divisions of widths are made from the net breast measure taken snug above the bust "mammillae." Of these parts I give six for the front, six for the back and two for each side or arm, four for the waist and eight for the hip, the largest part being

front as from 8 to

e^ e^

may measure

added

the

Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 106. Co)iyris;liled

I8SI" liy C'luis.

,1.

Stone

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

PROPORTIONS Fashionable Jacket, by Proportionate Method, from the following measurements: Height,

4 inches.

5 feet

IN PRACTICE. Draw

Waist, 24 inches.

lines

B A

B C

ATS.

and

inches, being #j of height plus

breast plus J^ inch. 16^ inches, being

inch. It

of height

plus

inch.

Square lines B

C and

i^ breast,

J^ full bust.

Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark per black dots.

H is i^, H to K to L is )4-

Square up Points J

lines J

and

I is

and

>^,

to J

>^, J to

off as

}i,

will

then form the diameter of

scye, but as the scye in a lady's

somewhat wider than vance from L

garment

a gentleman's,

same

5 to 19

and

way between E and

to 21,

from

line

add from

X to

through

13, J^ inch,

as 27 to 21.

to 18

}4 breast,

is I

to 2 is

to 3 is 2i^ inches.

3 to 4

4 to

and 10 into three equal parts and locate points O and P, and square up points O and P. halfway between B and V.

ÂŤo**

-^.g.

and 19 is 2

to 20

is 2 i^

to 8 is

6 inches.

inch.

inches, thus making body and under-arm piece }(

J^ inch.

inch.

is 1

5 is

inches.

6 to

to R.

16 to 17

Shape front as represented. D to 23 IS I inch, and D to 24

ad-

to 10

Divide distance between

W down

the

14 to 6

half

Draw

)^ breast.

Square up from

This line will

12.

Point

through Z to

and shape as represented, the top of back coming i4 inch below point A. will be seen that the distance from K to is the same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y is

cut

one half inch and recede from J to 1 one half inch. The arm-scye will then be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted line 27 2

Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F and a line from S to F.

and

point

is j.^

A B D

TO DRAFT. Square

from

point of back at W.

Bust, 36 inches.

Breast, 34 inches.

a line

locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder

The dotted

the

back and side

of waist measure.

inches.

(same as side and under-arm piecesV inches.

lines

on back and side body indicate the

pleats.

Finish draft as represented and add seams

when

cross

cutting the cloth.

all

over

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

THE DRESS

Strap,

BODICE.

f2)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DRESS BODICE. HY ACTUAL MEASURES.

The diagram on

opposite page

following measures: Strap,

produced by the

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

BASQUE. )1V

From

the following measurements:

Upper shoulder,

SHOUI.DKR MEASURES.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. The body same

of a double breasted frock

waist seams

comes from

inches below the

and the same in front as from B to N; in the side it is only about one inch below regular waist line as from C to H. The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about i^ inches wide at waist line and 2^ inches at center of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle waist line in the back as from

to D,

as the regular dress skirt in the following

Draw

a straight line

P P

to S to

is is

I'j I

Draw

manner:

to S

which

same as O to P. from P through X

'3 waist

measure.

a line

S T.

from 2 through U to from 37 to 39 inches.

skirt

length of coat

full

length of skirt from

skirt

from

the

Sweep from

same

2 to 15,

the

same

15.

back

to Z.

by P for length.

it open over the hips as and 11, fold skirt over at botton as indicated by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13.

to 8

fitting skirt split

S T, using point P as pivot.

width of back,

line

inches below

is 5

to 15 is one inch. Shape spring of back

to VV.

E to D; make a mark at i, and place sidebotly so that waist line will lay on I

For a close

the

and mark off bottom of sidebody under arm piece in same

T S,

below sweep

skirt

waist.

manner and mark off at 3-4. Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point T and mark off as at 5-6, 7 and 4, so whatever the body comes below waist line we cut off of

Make

the same.

line

as at 2-3, then place

The

to T.

yi waist.

Sweep from

from

waist and

Form square P

sweep

drafted the

as an ordinary waist with the exception that the

•w*SSSSiJ^^^S3^^(of

J^ inches

}SS*es««<-

and Y

to 9

2}4 inches.

l9_

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

FANCY WAIST. BY PROPORTIONS.

The

waist on opposite page

produced from the

following measurements:

Length of waist, i6

Breast,

Bust,

Waist,

Square up from

J to

Square up from

Commence by

B B

B C

is is

^ ^

C and

is 2

Draw

half

to J

inch.

inches.

i^ of

i}( inches.

an inch

taken out between back and side

K R

to 6

inch.

6 to 7 7

line

through P and F to R.

from S

to 8 is

The C.

to N.

yi inch less

than -3 of breast.

is 2

9 to 10

Shape

inches.

is 2 is

8 to 9

way between B and

5 is 214^

i^ breast.

a line

2}^ inches.

bust.

from

half

yi bust.

2 to 3 is

3 to 4 is

breast.

Shape front

inches.

^ inches. ^ inch. I

body and X. is half way between is half way between

AON.

Square up from

M M

3^/^

length of waist.

Square down from F

and

4 to

breast and

lines

ABC

inch.

is full

Square

C C

^ X

squaring lines

'6 breast.

to 2 is

TO DRAFT.

to O.

and H. and X.

inches.

J^ inches.

inch.

inches.

is 2 3/4

inches.

as represented.

cloth side

is represented by shaded portion, the back body and under arm piece is in one and

shaped so as

fit

the lining.

The shaded porThe front

tion on front represents the cloth.

way between C and H.

of waist

yi inch.

finished with fancy silk.

Waist at neck

finished with an ordinary standing collar.

(3)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

JACKET AND VEST. On

the diagram of a jacket and produced by proportions from the following measurements:

opposite page

The diagram

vest.

Length of

waist,

Full length,

Breast,

isH

Bust,

Waist,

Draw

14 to 34

Commence by 1

to 2 is

squaring lines

to 17 is

3 inches.

3 to 4

)^ of breast

2 to 5 is

waist length,

Square

lines 4

4 to 10

and

17,

inch.

i^^, and

to 6 full length, 21.

inch less than

I }/2

the same.

2^3

breast.

18 to 19

plus

19 to 20

J4 inch.

20 to 21

2yi inches.

21 to 22

is T

22 to 23

23 to 24

24 to 25

3 inches.

inch.

inches.

26 to 28

inches.

half of bust.

27 to 28

Draw

a line

12 to 13

from 8

bust.

largest

tlie

11.

inch.

'4^

In shaping the front dart add

Square up and down from

Square up from 10 and

inch.

2}i inches.

25 to 26

4 to 8

inch.

11.

half of breast.

trifle

lines to 28.

lines.

inch at 31 over

38.

collar for the jacket

which any cutter

The

part of bust and hollow the shoulder a

between 30 and

The

28.

}^ inches.

10.

and

inches.

halfway between 4 and

4 to

3, 5,

breast,

halfway between 10 and

is is

and

13 tiirough 8

breast.

5 to 18 is J4

inch.

'/2

2 to

to 3.

ys breast.

16 to 29 15 to

TO DRAFT.

Shape front from I

34^2

from 13

a line

13 to 14

darts on

indicated by dotted

will readily

the vest

are

understand.

indicated by dotted

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

e^ e^ e^

DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST. On

opposite page we give a normal draft of a

The measures

double-breasted ladies' vest. Breast, Bust,

Note.

Waist,

Length of waist,

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This pattern

are:

drafted without seams

;

of bust measure.

bust on divisions.

length of waist.

Square

lines

is )4

F F

G H

to 6 is

inch.

to 10 to

is is

yi inch.

inch. '4

inches,

making the width

at waist yl of the entire waist

B C and D. of breast on division. bust on divisions.

yi bust

and K.

Shape front from L through E and 6. L to M is '8 breast on divisions. A to N is breast plus y^ inch on divisions.

yi breast.

H G

Square down lines F and E.

8 to 9

::;

3)4 inches.

P R

A D and A

TO DRAFT. Scjuare lines

Square up lines

cutting the goods add for seams and sew in chalk line.

C E

The

back part

)^ inches.

darts are each

inches making the forepart

at waist y^ of the entire waist

divisions.

?i3Âť

measure.

t^ ^^ i^ t^ t^

measure.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

CUTAWAY

Length of Waist,

FROCK.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DOUBLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.

t6>-X

(4)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

BASQUE AND VEST. The

draft

produced by the following shoidder

6 to

measures:

Upper shoulder, 22 J^ Front length, 19^ Lower shoulder, 2i]4 Natural waist, 16^

Bust,

Side length,

Waist, 22

Full length,

8J^

Breast, 32

Hip,

Vest opening,

Square lines A. F and to

B B

Square

D D

(; full

from

half

Q U to R

Draw <) to

and

The

]/2

line

J to

to J

and from

through

for

y'^

c to

inch.

-;8 I

is 2

4 to 6

inch.

inches. '-

first

back part

sidebody

i]/:

line

and

cut same as the basque, the dotted lines

inches.

inch.

33^ inches, making the distance from c to d '4 of waist measure.

is I

to y is

inches,

J{;

inch,

is 2

â&#x20AC;˘^ 14'

inches, inches,

and

h, e to s

to O.

2 to 3 is }4 inch.

3 to 4

inches at the

e to s is lyi inches,

making the distance from X

y to k

Shape front of vest

waist measure.

y^ inch outside of center line

and

finish as represented.

The basque roll is 4

inches; re-

duce the front of coat 1 inch from lower end of the lapel all the way down. I

and

y to k

T is the same as U to R. P to V is J-4 breast. From waist line to lower end of

vest

a to h

S to

h to e

inch.

from C

2]/^

entire width of

bottom 5 inches. on back to spring of

to a is 2 '4

a to c

J^ breast.

make

3 inches;

and

inches,

to O.

y% breast plus '/ inch.

representing the vest.

way between D and M. way between D and H.

the lower end

VEST.

lower shoulder, less

j/4'

shape as represented.

front center line.

D N

line

Apply hip measure 5j^ inches below waist

length.

inch.

is I

line

sitie

inches more than

inches from

y^ breast.

Square up from

Draw

wide

From

'6 bust.

inches or

draw a

"/ inch.

and two

inches.

waist and to

Square down from

10^

9 to 10,

g to

to J is 1^ bust.

J to

the back

of entire waist measure.

inches from 7 to 8, and 2 from g to m center of dart and take out %i inch on each side of m. Shape front as represented, making the lapel 3 inches

J^ breast. y'z inch.

lines C,

notch, and the collar

upper shoulder.

Suppress

TO DRAFT.

inches or

waist measure.

Full length, 21}^.

lo.

From

making

inches,

is 2].-,

bodies

so as to give

The

cut with a large lapel turned back

an even

roll all the

way down

in front.

and there are There is a hook

lapels are stiffened with hair cloth

three large buttons on each lapel.

on forepart on the inside under the lower button, and an eyelet in the vest holding the fronts of the

The vest is cut with a regular colbasque together. lar same as on a gentleman's vest.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

THE PRINCIPLE OF SLEEVE CUTTING. Make width

of sleeve from 13 to 14, }4 inch less than

measure, and add from 14 to elbow i inch for the upper sleeve. The top sleeve from 12 to 17

^ inch more than half of the width at hand, and the upper sleeve is ^ inch smaller. 15 and 12 to 16 is 14^ inch added to the upper sleeve and like amount is taken off the under sleeve. is

3 to

THE NEW WRINKLE AND HOW TO PRODUCE

IT.

From Split

14 to double circle below 18 is 3}^ inches. under sleeve from 19 to 18, and swing out top part of sleeve whatever amount of fullness is

wanted and draw a 23

way between

half

Draw

a line

from 19

line 3

from 3

and

to 21.

21.

to 20.

Square up from 23 to 24, and sweep from as shown in diagram. Tlie fullness

on top sleeve

Add seams when

be shirred

in.

cutting the cloth.

THE CLOSE FITTING SLEEVE. Square lines

A D and A

breast,

2 to

i's

is 5'8

are

from a regular close

cut

all

sleeve pattern (see diagram of the regular sleeve draft,

with

The

illustration of

regular sleeve

the armscye, which

Length of sleeve

tii

how

to produce the puff at top.) produced from the measure of

as follows

Full length of sleeve,

Scye,

Width Width

tibiiw,

elbow,

hand.

TO DRAFT.

Commence by From I to 2 is From I to 3 is

squaring out and down. I'j

scye.

scye and }( inch. and to ii full length of Square across from points 2, 3 and 10.

3 to lo is elbow,

}i inches.

to 12 is

10 to 13 1

inches.

on diagonal line is Ui scye, and half way between 3 and 4.

3 to 4 5 is

sleeve.

Square up and down from

Draw a line from 3 to shown in diagram.

yi inch.

5. 6,

and shape top sleeve as

inch.

A B

to 3 is

and C. whatever upper part of armscye measures.

to 4 is

whatever lower part of armscye measures.

Draw fitting

H. to 2 is 3^ breast.

Square lines

Sleeves

and

line

from

2 to 3.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 5

way between

half

and

Square up and down from

C E E D

way between C and

to 12

and

2 to

inch.

Square down from 3 to F. Make width at hand and elbow according

and shape as shown

THE LEG

measure,

diagram.

MUTTON SLEEVE.

In the leg o' mutton sleeve the under part remains the

same

part

as in a close-fitting

sleeve;

and the upper

very easily changed from the close-fitting to

the very large by

Sweep from Sweep from

From

3 to 10

2 to

making the following sweeps: and 9 by 1.

to 8

inches, or whatever

2j/^

fullness

desired in the upper sleeve.

Sweep from 8 to 9

Draw

8 to

(

and from

to 10

\]^ inches.

line

from 10

hand.

ONE SEAM LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE.

.ABC

Fold paper lengthways and square lines

and

to G.

Square across

at A.

A A

to to

B C

4 inches or whatever width

is 5

sleeve length.

is ji{

of sleeve length.

Make

Draw

desired.

inches.

of sleeve from

.\pply length

through

out to

a point at F.

tS inches.

from F to G. way between F and G. Square across at H.

a line

half

sleeve length.

Sweep from F

using

as pivot.

}4 inch or enough to

ing of sleeve head.

3/|

of an

inch

to J

up and

inch back of

inch.

Shape under part of sleeve

\y2 inches.

12 to 15

12.

15^ inches.

point F.

length of sleeve, i6}4 inches.

half

Point

make an even round-

as represented

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

Si^SSs*-

ONE SEAM SLEEVE. A

great

number of

cutters are cracking their brains

about drafting the various styles and kinds of ladies' sleeves, never for a moment thinking that it can be

done otherwise.

ladies' sleeve that

can be produced by drafting

will

say right here that the only

close fitting sleeve, and from

are cut, and the

this

accompanying

all

sleeve

other sleeves is

produced

the following manner:

Draw

straight line

ordinary close

elbow

fitting sleeve

at points 10

and

iS.

and cut

go up same amount from 6 parallel with line

Sweep from

to 8;

line

17, 8, is

through 19 to 12 to 13, using 8 as back from 8 to 9, i)4 inches and

sweep from 14 through 20 to 12. Add from 13 to 18 enough so as to make an even round on the top of sleeve.

Take an across the

When

and overlap at 15 seam is obtained, then cut sleeve across at 6; swing sleeve around until it gets on a right angle as illustrated in the diagram. Measure distance from 5 to 7, which in this case is 914 inches;

pivot; then go

Line 19 Line 20

and 11, pivot at these points and 16 until a straight outside

the upper sleeve.

the under sleeve.

sleeve

finished, points 3

and 4

will

come down

shown in accompanying illustration of thesleeve finished. The Y>\n checked portion of the diagram represents the close fitting sleeve The black and shaded to point 2, giving the extra overlap as

portion represents the fold-over.

Note.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Add seams

in cutting tlie cloth.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

^ ^ ^ ^ ^

THE FOUNDATION In cutting skirts for every size

and

it is

not necessary to

style, for

much

make

and from that make The accompanying diagram most simple and correct method in

be found a

the side of skirt

point below

form

Hip

;

square as

Length .\

waist.

i's

C to D and C to F is ^3 waist. Make a sweep from D to and I

point

to 13, using

inches.

Make

sweep as per dotted

say

is,

same as D to 13. from C through L M to R. then measure ^ waist and P

G R

a line

13 to

will

double circled

inch.

of skirt at

12 inches.

27 inches.

27 inches

lines

2 to I is

from

the

Draw

inch longer than front,

point

and R to J is 27 inclies. from C to Q, G and R. inch. Shape front gore from to K. i

a closer fitting skirt

line.

H Q

Draw

as pivot. 13

to J, using point

this draft 2^^ yards,

40.

anti

bottom as from H to J, in and draw a line from J to C. The distance from L to I will then be for fulness in the back and is gathered or pleated in.

TO DRAFT.

Waist 24

lower sweep from

Measure width

skirt cutting.

First

through

pivot.

the needed changes. will

from

a draft

simpler and

easier to use a foundation skirt,

SKIRT.

}^ of

sweep

and make

and

wanted, reduce gores as

to 8.

of the gores

must be regulated by the it no certain

width of the materials used, and there

number

hip measure. .\pply length of skirt from 13 to

5 to 6

The width

of gores required.

for the present style of skirt.

e^ e^ e^ e^

They may be

6 or 7

FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE OF SKIRT CUTTING.

(5)

ANOTHER FOUNDATION

Front length, 41

Back

length, 41

SKIRT.

Side length Waist,

TO DRAFT. a straight line A B C. Square out from A. A to B is 4 inches. A to C is front length 41. Square out B and C. B to G is half of hip measure. Divide B to G into four parts as follows:

Draw

E C C

E is F is

half of hip

N C

inch back of D. is the distance from C to J. Cut through from O to N. L to 9 is I J^ inches, shape side gore from 9 to K.

hip.

THE

and F

and

on division.

to J the

same.

inch.

ABC

skirt.

Apply waist measure from

L and

find out

how

be taken out of the darts and take out yj: the amount between 5 and 6 and 73 the amount over is

li.^CK

GORES.

}(.

Fold paper on dotted line so that front lays on line J K L; point .\ will in this manner locate point L, and C will locate point J. In this case the front, side and back lengths are all the same, so by simply folding the paper and cutting it off even at top and bottom, the correct length is gained; but in case the side and back length be longer or shorter than the front the difference must be added or taken off at the top, at waist and not at the bottom of the

much

the hips between

and

In this skirt there are three back gores, each one 28 inches wide at the bottom and 5 inches wide at the top. By reducing side gores i J-^ inches at from L to 9, there will be three inches of space or i inch for each back gore, which is cut five times as wide at the top

and gathered

How

making

up.

back gores; Take a piece of paper 5 inches wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, fold lengthwise four times and cut across top and bottom and the correct angle is gained. Note. The number of gores shall be regulated according to the width of the goods as follows: First, cut the skirt pattern independent of any seams then measure width of goods and divide the gores accordto cut the

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

ingly.

Add seam when

cutting the cloth.

SKIRT.

The measures

are:

T^et

Waist,

Full side length,

40^

Hip, Side length to hip,

Length Length

40 40 '/J

in front, in back,

TO DRAFr.

Draw

line

from

to C.

inch less than measure taken. Square out lines B and C. B to G is half of hip measure. D E F is ^8 of hip measure or J/( on division. of entire hip measure. C to V is to

is 5

inches, or

From E to H and V to M is one inch. Draw line from M through H to J.

arm of square rest at A and long arm and square across to get point J.

short

S to

R is }( waist. T is one inch.

side length measure from Square across from to W.

Apply

and M.

the

same

through N F to K. Place short arm of square at J and long arm and square back from J for point K. K to N is back length measures. Square out from N. N to O is 14 hip measure. K to P is 3^ the distance from N to O.

Draw

line

from

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

FOUR GORED DRESS The skirt

diagram

page

opposite

cut with four gores and

is five

dress

yards at the

bottom. The following measures are used

in drafting:

Waist,

Side length,

Hip,

Front length,

Back length, Width at bottom,

40^^ 40^^ yards

A A

to to

ABC

lines

A B

is is

and

st|uare across at C.

Sweep from

E by

ABC

will lay

length at top.

Apply measure from

to J

and whatever

of the waist take out

L and K and

more amount

extra

the remainder in

the

front darts.

THE SIDE GORE.

Draw

a straight

measure out width

and make

a sweep.

line at

will

Fold paper over so that point

inches.

is 5

on point

will fall

and point

will

fall

from

be noted that

E G

bottom, 45 inches from Make width from L to

ÂŤ^

making.

left side at

M N

as indicated

ft^

L by R

point

The opening

the front line

extended up to point

sweep from

skirt a trifle at

E through L

C B A and

side

we could then and from C The same to E by R for run of bottom of skirt. If line E J and line Q M would in side piece. extend up to S we could then sweep from L to M for top of waist, and from E to Q for bottom of skirt, The same method may be used using S as pivot. for back gore. As the front and back gores are cut on the fold the goods on both the side and back gore will run on the bias from M to Q, therefore it is well to shorten the

line

E and G and where line C strikes on sweep E will be side length at bottom and wherever point A lays on L will be the side

than

to P.

;

points

between

The side and back length of skirt being jj inch more than front length, raise the skirt at waist line this amount as per dotted line from I K L M N O

of hip measure.

Fold pattern over so that line

'4'

be the top.

will

THE BACK GORE.

width at bottom, 22'/ inches. to

point

waist.

will fall

point N.

Sweep up from H to I. B to F is 10 inches or 1^' Sweep up from F to G.

on points M and (T, thus wherever point E will fall on the sweep at point Q will be the length at bottom and wherever point L will fold on

and

40 inches, front length. 5 inches, being js of entire length.

is J4^

waist measure then fold paper over so that point

Draw a straight line from P to Q is 2 2)-^ inches.

TO DRAFT.

Draw

SKIRT.

will

of the skirt

lines.

down in made on the

stretch is

and fastens inside with

by dotted

for waist line,

French

fly

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

5$«s*Si$ee«*

*»*5iJS*Sf

DOUBLE BREASTED LONG JACKET. By Proportions.

From

the following measurements;

Length of waist,

Breast,

Full length,

Bust,

A R

Square lines

A B D

breast and 4 inches always.

B C

to to

is '/^ is

to J is

J to

Square

is 7 J

is is

2 to

4 to

full

length.

Draw Draw

is is

}{

breast, plus

half

way between V and H.

4 inches.

}/>

inch.

breast and

'4^

Draw From From

inch.

J^ inch.

lines for spring as

through

shown

diagram.

for width of back.

and from

through

3 for

back

and side body.

R R

From

breast.

a line from

to S

from

a line from

R R

line

to 6 is 2i/( inches.

inch. J-6

breast on division.

is J^

yi bust.

inches.

5 is 2 J4

Square up and down from N.

inches.

inch.

C and

breast.

y'i

inch.

is I

B to H Draw a

to B.

3 to 4

i"^ inches.

4 Inches.

lines D,

B B B

G N

waist length, to

inch.

'yh

Feet

to 2 is

half the distance from

and

Height,

and from

through 4 and from

througli P.

From F through Z

to C.

'8 breast.

and P

Sweep from E

breast.

inch.

oais ee

through

5 for

second

for forepart.

to 8 is 4^/ inches.

to 9

represented.

goods.

3 inches.

side body.

by S

for

front length and shape

Add seams when

cutting the

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

ÂŤ^ 5^ ÂŤ^ i^ e^

THE BALLOON SLEEVE. SIX

Take an ordinary

close fitting sleeve

and lay

together at hand and elbow as illustrated in diagram.

Draw

a line from

A B

Point

located by getting center from

Pivot by E and sweep G D Y. Divide parts as shown on diagram

Y to P is 4 inches. Make sweep N O P

using

Draw

a line

from

Locate points through 6

From From From

elbow.

Draw a line from H to G. Draw a line from I through A F to G is ij4 inches. Sweep from C to E by A.

IMECES.

and

for pivot.

line

from

to (J.

through

through 8

to R. to

4 through 9 to N.

inches above N. of an inch forward from

Shape as represented. to X by R, and from U to Y by S. Sweep from There should be no fullness on the top of the sleeve, but from X to G and B to D the sleeve is to be

E up to P. and draw a

through

gathered

e^ e^ 9^ t^

in.

(6)

5Â°

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET.

Waist,

LADIES' D B JACKET.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

t^ t^

%^ t^

«^»

THE LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. Take an ordinary place

and

diagram, laying the

close-fitting sleeve pattern

in position as

shown

outside seams together with the elbow

down

the

hand, then draw a straight line from hand through elbow.

Sweep from B to C by A. D is half way between B and C. Sweep from E through 6 and FF, using point D

for

pivot.

same distance as D to E. Use point 2 as pivot and sweep from i through Where the two sweeps meet at 3F fill in enough I

to 2 is the

make sleeve-top an even run. shown in diagram. Point 6

with points B D.

Width

Note.

—

.\11

line

Points 4-4 go together and points

hand ladies'

so as

t^'

to 5

6 and 7 go together with three pleats on upper sleeve between 5 and 6. There are 7 to 8 pleats laid between points 6 and G, and 6 to 7 pleats between points i and G, letting The cuff is the pleats run down each way from G. left open on the outside to correspond with the collar.

from 4

on an even

Fill in is

^^^

*^*

*i^

usually 9 inches.

garments are cut without seams.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

-â&#x20AC;˘^dSSi^^di^l

THE NEW BISHOP SLEEVE. Take an ordinary and half as the under sleeve

close fitting sleeve pattern, cut

by dotted lines, reduce as shown by solid lines as follows: to C is 14 inch, and B to D is inch; add same amount to top sleeve from B to E i inch, and A to F i^ inch, and M to K is 2i<( inches; add same amount from to N 2^ inches, and O to Q i}^ inches; split upper sleeve through center from hand to elbow as from P to K, and cut across at elbow as from to M.

half

illustrated

Square up line from

8 inches, or three times

and S

the distance

from

to V.

inches in center below N. extra goods between a strap

seam.

Draw

sleeve.

same distance as and F to J is 3 inches; the

be pleated on

way between

from and Y.

Sweep from Y to J by X. Hollow out inch at 3, and j!'2

inch at

this

C on

under-

extra length

to under-sleeve.

a straight line across

half

J to Y.

3/j^

inch at

and add

This way of cutting the Bishop sleeve

will produce from elbow down, and an overflowing wide sleeve above the elbow; the fullness may be

a very close

fit

either pleated or shirred in.

W and

inch wide

Z Y. L on under-sleeve, and Z inches and this amount is to be pleated

same

under

sleeve,

Take piece cut out of upper-sleeve and place it over so that K P lays on points R T, and draw a line across from R to and V, coming down 2^

The

the

to the

pleated in and

stitched

on over the

The

sleeve

real button-holes

finished with a vent, with

and buttons

elbow, as from P to K.

o^^SS-SS&f*

all

the

blind or

way up

to the

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DOUBLE BREASTED COAT. On

opposite page

the diagram

The back

breasted coat.

cut on

of a

double-

the fold of the

goods and the two back and side seams on each side from the top down are finished with box plaits; the collar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the

melon style, the pockets are placed in the front gore seam as shown In diagram. On next page we present a cut of the coat as

The

draft

appears finished.

produced from proportions by the

large part of hip, 24

Full length,

Breast, Bust,

34 36

Waist,

Hip,

to 2 is 3^ inch.

to 3 is 2

inch.

4 to 5

is 2 '4

to V.

inches.

'/(

3 to 4

inch.

[

inches. inch.

Draw line from J through O Shape front from J to up

to 15.

following measures: Waist,

Square down from

Make width F

Draw

of back from

Draw

yj^ inches.

to 9,

inch.

a line from

10 to II

to P.

breast.

through

to 10.

15 inches.

from 4

line

to 12 parallel with line to 10.

10 DR.^FT. 1

Commence by squaring lines .\ E and .\ M. A to B is y^ inch. B to C is 34^ breast. C to D is 3X2 inches. B to E waist length to F, prominent part of to

full

Square lines

D D

length of coat.

D E

to 6

6 to 7

15 inches.

3 incl-.es.

to 8 is

I 3/(^

Make width hip and

inches.

'4'

is 2

there

Make width

inches.

from

of lapel

from

15 to 16 half the distance

13 to 15.

of lapel

at waist

length at 17 half the

width of forepart from 8 to

to I is >4 breast.

Lapel

top from 18 to 19

inches.

to J is >4 bust.

THE COLLAR.

yi bust.

^8 breast, plus >^ inch.

Yi breast.

is y'l

D D

to 13

Square up and down from

breast.

bieast.

Square up from L and K. Draw line from C to (^. D to H is 54 breast on division.

Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest

on W. Square down from P to U. Square up and down from

Add

LI.

of an inch spring in

inch.

Shape as represented.

CVOC) -^S.

':Â°J^?^|^S$iSi*

back

at T.

(7)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

THE MELON SLEEVE. Length of sleeve

to elbow,

Full length,

Take an ordinary pattern

off

Width Width

of sleeve at

hand,

at tlliow,

Draw

close fitting sleeve, cut or tear

about 2)^

inches above the elbows as

shown by the shaded pattern on diagram.

A D

a line

half

from

through

way between B and

Sweep from B through sleeve.

to B.

inches.

C. 4 and 5 to C, for top of

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. This garment is finished the same as a genlleman's box overcoat. It is silk lined throughout, silk faced to the front edge and has a soft roll, the seams are strapped and the edges double stitched }< to 3/; inch wide; there are outside, side and ticket pockets with flaps

in or out, the sleeves are

made medium

band with a small The whole garment presents a vent 1)4 inches long. very stylish appearance. The draft is produced from size, leg of

mutton, finished

at the

the following short measures: Strap,

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

COACHING COAT. The front is cut with a separate piece 8}4 inches wide The back is finished with a strap 3^4 inches wide. The seams and edges may be double stitched or set in.

strapped 3/^ inch wide. There are two outside pockets with flaps to go in and out. There are also two outside pockets on the breast in the front piece as indicated by dotted lines. The sleeves are close fitting from the elbow down. The top part of sleeve is finished with a double box pleat and the top of sleeve heads are finished witli double box pleats. The draft is produced by proportions from breast and bust measures as follows:

waist,

Draw

a straight line up and

width

down from F

at hartd.

K is

L and F

18 inches.

L is half way between E and K. Square a line from L to M. Sweep from E through P, N, to K, using point as a pivot. C to Q is 5 inches. Draw line from Q to K. This extra amount from C to Q is added for a double box pleat to be laid on the top of upper sleeve. P to O is 1 3/^ inches. Lay line Q K on the fold of the goods when cutting the cloth. Shape as represented, and add seams in cutting the cloth.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

dt dt dt dt

HALF CIRCLE The

half circle cape

H is

to J

one inch, draw

as distance

a line

from L through

3 for

THE FULL CIRCLE CAPE

J to 3.

'4, J to I is

>^ and

from L

Is cut in the following

manner.

Square up and down from A.

line

same

bottom.

through

y^ breast.

the

to 7 is ^ inch and VV to 8 the same. Apply length desired from C to X and sweep from X Add enough at to Y using point R as pivot. points X and Y to make it an even run at

}a breast.

Square up and down from H. A to L and H to L is the same as A to G. Sweep from M to is yi inch below C.

Draw a B to O

to S

to 2.

V length.

}i breast.

front.

inch.

Square out from

to 3 is

y^ breast.

to V is length of waist and to X full Square lines B A U and V. A to D is ys, D to E is >^ and E to F

distance from

from

Square up and down from A. A to B is 4 inches and A to U

B C

CAPE.

Make

cut in the following manner.

(See Diagram A).

(See Diagram B).

This line represents

the center of cape.

Square across

at A.

A to C is it neck and A to D is J4^ Apply length from C to E F G or I or whatever length desired, and make a sweep using point B for pivot and lengthen front and back B

neck,

neck.

breast.

Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder

so as to get an even run.

point.

Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. Sweep from F to K by G, locating points i and

the back,

The 2.

e^ e^

collar

standing, turn

B the side and D the front of neck. on either of these capes may be a down

e^ e^

or a high standing collar.

(8)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

CAPE. The

diagram

opposite

page

small

cape.

front

one

circle

large

cape

larger

has regular

go out and

The

coat.

The

shoulder;

the

flaps

three-quarter

consists

same

in,

finished

with

cape on and one

cut

with

fly

and but-

in the

shape of an opening of 8 inches

each side of the cape

made

so that the lady can

pass her arms through and get into the pockets.

The collar is 2 inches standing and 2]/^ inches turn down and closes in front with two hooks and eyes. The small or top cape is made plain. It has a 2)^ inch standing collar made with a fly, with button The draft holes and buttons on to the larger cape. is

produced by the proportions of the breast and

bust measures, as follows;

A A A

G is G to K is

Square cross

line

J^ breast,

i/S

breast,

J^ breast, Vi inch.

on on

through F

P and V.

division.

The

and

large cape

cut with a

the following simple to J is

y'i

inehes for lap in front.

is 2

method

shoulder and

in the

used in obtaining

it:

breast.

from A F

V and

and P

P V lay over to

pivot

R, letting 2

inches

and paste or pin pattern

together from J to P and V R. the small or top cape there is no V taken out in the shoulders. is

very easily understood, as

straight piece of cloth

on division.

shaped a

so that the top edge will be a finished.

S D.

]/(,

.The collar

with short arm resting on

division.

from shoulder point

A C and

from

overlap so that point 8 on back will be

bust.

C, and square

diagram.

collar, 17 inches.

Place corner of square at A, letting short arm rest

from

breast on division.

at J, letting points

ECHO.

line

Apply length of cape from E to S and D, and sweep from D to M by A foi^ front length. Add from P Q to V R breast and shape as shown

and draw dotted

line

Split pattern through

TO DRAFT. straight line

^ ^

Full length of small cape, 22 inches.

Draw

H, and square

Full length of cape, 34 inches.

Neck, over dress

>^ bust.

Place corner of square at

Breast measure, 34 inches, taken snug. Bust measure, 36 inches, taken easy.

H to

over-

tons up to the neck with five buttons on the front.

An armhole

pocket with

man's

Square down from

inches high; 2 yi

inches.

to 2 to

and

trifle

to 3

it is

trifle in

simply a

making,

shorter

when

the stand,

3 to 5 is the turn

down,

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. On

THE PRUSSIAN COLLAR.

opposite page will be found a combination

method

From

of drafting capes.

be drafted the

i/^

circle military

method may

this

cape or the regular

shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder.

The 1

The accompanying

draft

for a

normal

figure.

Square back from

to R.

to D.

to S

breast.

to T.

from

through P to O, and from

from

through point P to "leopard spot."

The

inches.

and

to U.

whatever

desired for lap in front. full size

of the draft will

make

as indicated

For from A to I as indicated by dot and dash line. stooped or erect figures slide point A up or down on back center line according to whatever stoop or is

wanted.

down from A to 2, form go back inch erect and for a j'2 half an inch, neck gorge change the half inch, then from A to 3, e., for a center point, /. new to conform to the and to B _^ should 2 F be stooped figure 2 to is and figure to F erect }'i breast, and in an 3 3 to B fly-front and has a made usually The cape is M^. a

J/2

inch stooped form go

a three-fourths

and by splitting it through on the shoulder from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line 8, 9, P O, we have a 3^ circle with a V taken out By cutting pattern as illustrated by in the shoulder. circle cape,

the shaded portions the regular cape

from

For a short neck figure go up from C to L whatamount neck is shorter than proportion. Sfluare out to point H and draw back center line

For

to Y, 2 inches, or

line

line.

ever extra

erect

Square down from U to V. Draw line from A through

Add from

front of

VARIATIONS.

dotted

breast.

lines

on point

for

draw back center

line

rest

^ i/^

pivot. to

to 4 is 2 inches.

}i breast.

Apply length desired from F to E. Sweep from E through N* O to R using point

to 3 as illustrated in diagram.

J^ inches for stand.

For a lady with a long neck add from C to whatever extra height in neck is desired, square back from N to J and lay corner of square at point A,

through P to N.

Draw

breast.

Square up from S

Square

is I

to 2.

inches.

is 2

to 5

to 3.

collar.

to E.

to 3

Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm 4 and square down from 3 to 7

Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest at point D and draw back center line from

A A

drafted by drawing a line from

5 to 6 is 3 inches.

i^ breast.

Shape from

TO DRAFT.

Draw a straight line from A down Make a point at A. A to B is J^ breast.

collar

Square down from

obtained.

*«*««$€'

Prussian collar.

—

Note. This method of cutting capes good for both ladies and gentlemen.

I'^^l^a S:^$»

will

hold

x\\

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

7Â°

BICYCLE SUIT. THE COAT. Square

C A

^ breast ^ inch.

to J

^3 breast.

>4 bust.

half

to to

length desired.

breast.

]i bust.

half breast

H to T to U is

K M

on division. and square down from L

and

>,{.

N A O O R

inches and

regulated as follows;

y, inch;

is ^4;

to S

to N.

i^ breast.

inches.

from C

line

y% breast plus

the

inch.

bust.

same

to R.

to 14 is 1)4 inches.

14 to 15

inch.

waist suppression is

T. I

Draw

full

way between G and H.

Square up

The

breast.

is y'l

K G

inch.

Y-z

of the waist length.

I is I

and

waist length, to

Square lines B C

B B B B

Y to Z 2 inches, making the distance from D to V J4^ of waist measure. Apply measure from V to U and find out how much more it measures than ){ waist and divide the difference into three parts and take out y'l each between i and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 to 6. Let spring of sidebody run through point E. Sidebody and underarm piece overlap i}4 inches from 7 to 8 and i y^ inches overlap from 9 to 10 and y-2 inch is taken out between 11 and 12. inches and

and A B D.

3}4 inches.

to a is

a to

C B

A N

lines

Shape

Yi inch.

as represented in diagram.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

CYCLING KNICKERS. The cycling knickers on opposite page from the following measures: lo

Rise,

Band

Waist, 24

Note. chair.

to knee,

23 '4

Seat,

knee, 14

—

The rise is taken from Lady sitting.

the hip

seat of

A O N and A B

is rise,

knee, 23

B F

^2 seat

Is of seat

half

length to

4 inches.

and down from

10.

measure and 5

inches.

shown

dia-

gram.

L E

J to

U X

is is is is

inches.

3/|

and

J4^

inch.

Apply waist measure from N to O deducting darts and from Q to R making it ^i waist and 4 inches. Take out 2 darts each i -'4 inches at 6 to 7 and 8 to 9. A two-inch band put all round the waist with openings in the side 5 '_• inches down from O to 11. This opening is made with a fly and has two small

at 2

be placed

in the fly.

placeil at the waist

from

and has one small button.

fly

This opening

to 12.

also

made

with

the lady points

overlap; the

shown

darts at the bottom at

Lengthen forepart

inches.

E and L will come up to and button close around the leg just J below the knee allowing the extra length to

inch.

line

1}^ inches.

Shape forepart

to S

of seat.

way between

is 2

When on

2j4 inches.

half

band at the side. back part is straight The cut across at the bottom and has no darts taken out. The bottom is gathered in and sewed on to the band one inch and a half wide. opening is made in the side about 4 inches up, as An

to L.

J. I

inch darts at 4 and

may also A hook and eye is

measure on division.

y^ of waist

Take out

G O

Pockets

way between C and is

'6 of seat.

buttons.

a line tlirough center

'6 of seat.

halfways between B and G.

Draw

outside

on division.

Square up from F

and

B C D

I is

.'\

'j-

4 inches

Scjuare lines

lo;

TO DRAFT. Square lines

10 to P

Outside length

THE HACK PART.

produced

-'4

diagram taking out three i, 2 and 3. inch.

full

length will then be as to line

The distance from C

according

style

practice that 4 inches

«^ t^ f^ ^^ i^

or fancy, but is

just

about

D may

find in

right.

(9)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT. The divided skirt on opposite page is produced in manner from the following measures:

the following

Outside length,

40)/^

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

[llAl.kAM

BICYCLE SKIRT. The diagram

represents the

eight equal parts.

The

checked represent the

full circle

parts

that

the

skirt,

divided into

Start at center

are shaded pin

be cut

TO PRODUCE THE DRAFT. a straight line as

as I

from to

7 to 8;

taking a

to 2,

four times.

2 to 8,

8 to

The bottom laid

square crossways

then take half the distance from

and draw across This may be done by 4, and 5 to 6. square piece of paper and folding it

7 to 2,

lines 3 to

from

'3 of waist

in a separate piece of

double box pleat

cut out of the circle.

The back

Draw

measure; line

letters

The pleats may cloth. The reverse

front; S, S, sides; B, B, back.

plain parts with

dotted lines represent the pleats, and the diagonal portion

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

prominent part of hip;

The

laid in front

a triple fold

of skirt

box

and both

sides.

pleat.

finished with a

mohair braid,

flat.

skirts may be made with or without lining, but should have an extra lining from the waist down to the hips,

and the pleats fasten down to the The opening may be made in

lining at the hip.

the back or in the sides.

Add

seams.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

BICYCLE SUIT. Draw

DIVIDED SKIRT.

D R

a line from

to 7

through 6 to

it.

is iS seat.

to 9 and H to 10 is j^ seat. Shape as represented. to 6 are sewed together. 3 to 4 and Lines 8 9 go in with the pleat in the back and I 2 go into the pleat in front. 1 1

Add

Finish as represented.

THE

To more cap

seams.

CAP.

fully illustrate the

method

of cutting the

shown, but when once under-

all six pieces are

stood only one piece

DIAGRAM

lines

required in drafting.

The

Diagram B represents a divided skirt and is drafted on the same principles as the bicycle skirt. Square lines A, C, F and A, D, E. B is halfway between C and D. Draw a line from A through B.

is y'i

waist measure.

length of skirt, 34 inches.

Sweep from C

and from

through

G to H

by A.

Add

for pleats as

The crossed

shown

diagram.

represent the parts that makes

lines

and

to 2

2)4 inches.

F to 4 is ^ of seat measure. Draw a line from C through 4 I

is 2

to 8

to 5

inches above

and 10 is

i"?

to 9

seat.

5 to 6 is Vs seat.

to 3.

point to consider

size 7 (21 inches),

the size of the cap; say

it is

inches being the diameter of cap

wanted we take half of seven 354 inches, and make

the divided skirt.

first

2}^ inches.

a circle using point

as a pivot then divide the circle

making each piece ^}i inches

by }i which

sary to

21 inches or size

go to

all this

Draw

line

ABC.

the total of

not neces-

trouble in drafting a cap as the

same principle may be applied out of one piece.

Now

in cutting the pattern

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

BICYCLE SUIT. THE

is 2

to J

J to

E E

)4 of the size or

i-^,

each way to

(continued.)

Draw line A B. to B is the length,

inches or any height required.

Sweep from

CAP.

Square across

of circumference of cap.

each way making each piece from

only 4 pieces

and

y:^

a 5-piece

cap

and so on. from E to i and E to 6. Square across from i to 6 and draw lines from i to B and 6 to B thus forming a triangle i 6 B. This triangle will only come in a six piece cap. is

wantefl

Square up

lines

In shaping the crown add 7

of an inch round at 7

crown stand out, and if a snug wanted reduce or round off a trifle at D D. THE VISOR.

so as to

cap

make

3/^

the

F and F is half way of visor from F to G or H is

Visor from F to

Width of the from I }4

Draw a line B to F is I'j cap

the cap. all

inches, according to style

the

way

and fancy.

BAG.

A A

B to C is 4 inches. Square lines and D. Line H is half way between

ABC

A D

to to

^4 inch.

J4 of calf

L and

measure.

^ ^

)^ of width at bottom.

of ankle measure.

of instep measure.

Shape as shown

The buttons

of leg measure.

K K

diagram.

are placed in

N O A button-holes. and edge.

the center of the leggin

inch from outer end of

is added from the center on the under part. Note. Add seams when cutting the cloth as no seam is allowed in pattern.

one-inch button stand

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

of circumference of head or the size of

Sweep F F F by

16 inches.

4 inches.

RIDING BREECHES.

THE LEGGINS.

enable the cutter to produce a close

of riding breeches

becomes necessary

fitting pair

for

him or

her to have a close measure, and no lady will object to be measured in the proper manner, the same as we would measure a man for the same kind of garHowever, the following rule may be used to ment.

advantage:

If the

be 31 and the divide

outside length

rise

11.

and take

42 the inside will

Take the outside

The remainder, ^ less yi inch, will be the The knee is two inches above one-half length; the ankle full

length of leg.

leg.

of inside

two and one-half inches above The accompanying diagram is

produced from the following measures: Outside,

length,

}( plus ^4 inch for the rise.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

(CONTINUED.)

RIDING BREECHES.

top

finished with a regular waist band.

opening may be made Square up from F

F to G is ^ seat. F to I is j^i seat. Draw a line from S

Draw J to

to G.

are

made

the

with a regular

fly

in this draft.

to J

and K.

,'8^

'firT^

inch.

E to N is the same as B to H. Draw center line from N through M, H

L and

Apply one-fourth knee measure from

Q. .\pply one-fourth of ankle measure from

and

to P,

and apply the calf measure

O and manner

in like

at i6.

T 1

inch.

to 2 is 2^2 inches.

2 to

y^ inch.

J^ inches.

3 to 4

is 2

4 to 5

J^ inch.

2j^ inches.

5 to

Shape forepart

as represented.

THE BACKPART. E.xtend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom.

L to U Draw a

seat.

t'j

3 inches.

line

from

2j^ inches.

to II

to 12 is yi inch.

inch.

below knee.

4 inches

and

to 17

to 18

and iS

17 to 13

and

j4 inch.

inch.

one-fourth ankle measure Apply the measure over the calf 14

at 16.

Add

by broken

line at 15.

as indicated

by dotted

a button stand as indicated

Take out

a half inch

lines.

to 7

2j4 inches.

inch.

to 8

8 to g

9 to 10

10 to

is is

inches.

13^ inches.

inches.

Shape as represented.

'A'-htnri

I-

The

or quite

sides,

and G.

way between B and G.

half

they

inch.

a line from

often

Seams are included

way between

half

S to

to T.

front.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

RIDING JACKET. By proportions from Height,

the following measurements:

is }i(

inches, being

i6)4

'i inch.

to 22 is

and

H is ^, H K to L is

I is

i.^,

down

yi full bust.

to J

'^, J to

Draw to 21,

Points J

and

U L

li,

will

then form the diameter of

but as the scye in a lady's garment is somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I advance from L to 10 one-half inch and recede from one-half inch. The arm scye will then J to 1 scye,

be nearly a

indicated by dotted line

circle, as

27-21.

Point

half

Square up from

way between E and

same

the

S to 19

and 16

to 21

to 21,

parts

points

and

the

as 27 to 21.

yi breast,

and 10 into three equal and P, and square up

and

to 18

to 2

to 3

is 2^4^

3 to 4 is

4 to

19 to 20 '<(

inch.

inches.

6 inches.

inches.

inch.

5 is 2\( inches, thus making body and underarm piece j^ is

â&#x20AC;˘'s

I 5^6

9 to 8

8 to 7

is 2'/S is

Shape

"vK

yi inch.

14 to 6

halfway between B and V.

I ^'2

17 to 9

and locate points

through

to 13, yi inch,

and the distance from 27

Shape front as represented. D to 23 is 1 inch, and D to 24

15 to 17

to R.

Divide distance between

as represented.

_!-Â§.

Square up lines

from

a 4ine

add from

Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F and a line from S to F.

Divide breast into eight equal parts.

j4 inch.

same

of height plus }4

B C and D.

j4 breast,

This line wi/

12.

be seen that the distance from

It will

inch. lines

and shape

}(

through Z to

ys breast.

Square to

point

DR.^FT.

3j^ inches, being /< of height plus breast plus }4 inch.

A B D and ATS.

Square lines

point of back at

Waist, 24 inches.

Breast, 34 inches.

a line from

locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder

Bust, 36 inches.

4 inches.

5 feet

Draw

inch.

inches.

inch.

inches.

Jj4 inches.

as represented.

the back and side of waist measure.

(10

)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

RIDING SKIRT. niagram on opposite page.

The measures used

in drafting are as follows:

Full length of skirt 40 inches.

From

18^

waist to right knee,

The width

inches.

of skirt

A X and A

G E E F L

half

ÂĽ

using

as pivot.

14 waist.

way between A and

skirt.

Lay corner

point

12 to

to Q.

II to 7 is

down from O

Apply measure iS'j inches from out a slash of

nothing

at 5

and

arm

rest

througli 5

The lower

and take

part should be cut

an inch shorter than the top and stretched out so as make tiiis part hollow and fit in close in the

when

in a sitting position.

Point 10

O. I

The

half

dart at

way between point is

1 j-^

and

line

inches and the dart at P

M is

inch.

Shape

side

from

down

through S and

from

through 12 to

shown

diagram.

rest at

5 inches.

!-'2

1 -)-4

inches longer than 12 to inches longer than 11 to

S. 8.

\V to

O, P to Q.

There is a 5 to 6-inch turn-up or hem at the bottom of skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined. The opening is made on the left side as illustrated on the pattern, also a pocket side

the

diagram.

seam or

.\n elastic strap

iS^SSSSSs*

either put lengthwise

crossways is

for the foot to hold the skirt

ÂŤSi5$$!S$:S5

11.

of )i( inches is taken out between 7 and 8. Measure back part from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to and make forepart the same length from C

in left

J^ of

lap

Square down from

inch in the center running out to

line

Lay corner of square at S letting long arm and square down to 12.

to L.

of square at O, letting

from

a parallel line

line

a line

and draw a

inches.

is 2

line

Square up from M to O. Draw a line from O to C, and add above inches as shown in diagram.

L and draw

to J is 4 inches.

Draw Draw

length of skirt, 40 inches.

yd the distance from

3 to 4-

40 inches or same as length of

for top of back.

length of skirt.

>'8

is full is

way between F and

half

Shape left side from J to through I to F. Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this amount at I and measure up to U, and whatever amount is over the full waist measure is to be taken out in two darts as from i to 2 and

waist. 5 to

20 inches being the same as the length of

Square up from

4 inches.

Sweep from C through

length.

its

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. lines

the skirt.

regulated by the

length, the width of the skirt being twice

Square

Waist, 24.

a sitting position,

THE BACK PART.

as indicated on sewed on the forepart down.

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OK CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS.

^ ^ ^ ^ ^

RIDING SKIRT. than the

to J

drafted from the proportions of

F L

This riding skirt

preceding one.

It is

the size of waist, hip

and length of

Hip,

Waist,

more form

fitting

skirt as follows:

Length of

skirt,

one-eighth of hip (<( on division). ij^ inches.

is j/^

Take out a

THE FOREPART (sEE DIAGRAM

Draw

Square across

A B from A to

a straight line

and

'/a

extra length

two inches

]/(,

full

length of skirt'

desired add from one to

extra.

C and

to 4

one-eighth of hip

one-fourth of length.

one-eighth of hip {]^ on division).

(14^

on division).

is ]'}

8 to 9

and

3 to

to N.

by N.

so as to

hip on division.

inch and

from

to 6 7

inch.

to N.

one inch.

(See back part Diagram

A^ ÂŤ^ A^ A^ A^

make

M, one two inches

inches.

straight line is

than half of waist measure.

is 2

Draw

E F

between

Draw a line from Sweep from M to 4 to 5

of length.

Square lines B

B E

less

distance from

and

of k-ngth

A).

hip on division.

one inch.

B on page

87.)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADiES' GARMENTS.

«««««««»

RIDING SKIRT. THE liACKPART (DIAGRAM Square

A B

line

Square across

to to

E F

G K

ys length

(

and F

on division).

3 to 5

i-s

length.

one-eighth hip {y^ on division).

ways between F and L. from K through P and R forming point Q, and sweep from a to R by Q. Sweep from R to S by K. S to

a line

I is

Sweep from

O V

V U

on the fore-

of hip (3^ on division).

A and

inches and

A and one

inch in a

R. i

to 3

6 inches.

4 inches. I

inches.

3 inches.

4 to 6

10 inches.

one inch. Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the to 7

cloth.

The opening

inches.

to 2 is

2 to

inches.

is 2

3 inches.

between

is lialf

Draw

same

Reduce waist one inch

one-eighth hip

length, the

X is Y is

VV to

Square lines B and C.

C E

at A.

length.

)i(

part.

}i length.

li).

The

}( inches.

skirt

WSSSSS^^o

from

to B,

which

fly.

must be lined over the knee as indicated

by dotted

3^ inches.

in the left side as

finished with a

lines.

^S€e«s«»*

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

VARIATIONS.

(Diagram

A B C

H H

to to

C F

halfways between breast and bust.

4 inches (normal height

^ is

5 feet 4 inches).

and underarm piece, and arm piece and point T.

breast.

half breast

and C

half bust.

to is

bust; square

The depth

breast.

Square down from

C and to

F; square

down

and advance from

to S

Shape front center from K through X, G to S, as The crossed lines illustrated by crossed line. represent the normal draft. To change from the normal to the corpulent I take as a standard that the normal waist should be ten The accominches less than the breast measure. panying draft Diagram B is 34 breast, 36 bust, and Now if we want to change this to 30 waist 24 waist. we have six inches of extra fat, as we are cutting or drafting only half of the body we only use 3 inches, half of the extra fat, and add from S to U, 2 inches, being Yi of the extra fat and from E to T we add the i

inch or one-third of the extra

fat.

suppress

between

and

P as

J^ breast. to 2 is the

same

and

to 3

the

called the

length becomes longer as indicated by point

minor dorsal length

height.

to is

the long

necked

long necked

to 2 the

the

figure.

the normal front length of shoulder.

The

three sixty-fourths of entire

the regular shoulder,

the short neck and

figure.

These variations are obtained by either a shoulder measure or short measures, depth of scye and strap Points

same

scye.

and

6 represent the

halfways between

diameter of the

and

half-

ways between 6 and between breast and bust measure. Y is halfways between 4 and 5 and X halfways between 3 and 4; the distance from Y to P O and X must be the same as Y 8 N to X. The major dorsal length from B on division and C to D is J4 inch.

For smaller waist than normal I suppress in darts and side so as to make forepart measure one-fourth waist as from T to"S (see Diagram A), and the back

3, 4, 5

8 plus one-quarter the difference

It will

L N

short neck and

length.

B being

is obtained from the height and minor dorsal length, the distance from B to D being the longer distance is called the major dorsal length, and is obtained from the breast or size of arm. If we have a short figure to cut for the minor dorsal length will become shorter as illustrated by point r, and if a longer figure the minor dorsal

from

of scye, the dorsal length, as

contains two different quantities.

enough so as to make it one-fourth of the waist, and takeout enough in the darts and side to make it measure one-fourth Sweep from S to V by G waist from from T to U. inch for 14^ for front length, recede from K to every inch the front has been advanced from S to U, to N and go back from then draw a line from then

the shortest distance

to E.

one inch.

remainder

between under-

in the side

(Diagram A).

halfways between

Never take out more

LONG AND SHORT NECK.

up to K. N is halfways between B and 6. Draw a line from N to K. to J is

to T.

than Yi inch between back and side body at waist, but take the extra suppression out between side-body

B).

one-fourth waist from

THE CORPULENT FIGURE.

breast

be noticed that the front shoulder points neck as at K i and 2 remains on

also the center of

the

same perpendicular and 2 on the back.

line in all cases,

also points

^-<^,

DIAQ-A-

-<$)Â£:

SK (i I)

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

VARIATIONS. The

easiest

way

of finding whether our client

stands normal, erect, or stooped, undoubtedly a comparison of

the upper shoulder measure and

length of strap in the following manner:

than half of the upper shoulder as follows: Strap,

Upper shoulder,

go back from

and draw up

}i breast;

i^ bust;

then from

from F

line

top line,

and allow front shoulder point to come up to top as in Diagram A. This will make the normal

line

In a normal figure the strap will measure one inch less

pattern

back

inch erect, or in

]{,

not lowered, but

make

inch then we will

}4 inch erect,

all if

the back

the

lowered

the pattern one inch erect.

LARGE AND SMALL BLADE.

(See Diagram A.)

C is one-third upper shoulder plus )4 inch, and C to B is ^ breast (on division) plus •^ inch. is always half-way between B and L.

half-way between half of breast and half of bust

of breast, and

the only point that

use

Square up from

K is on

Draw

a line from

The

the

same

line with A.

breast.

normal pattern, and which is produced from

the broken lines the erect,

the following measures: Strap, 11 J4; upper shoulder, 24; half of strap is 12, one inch less makes it 11,

which is the normal strap to a 24 upper shoulder. By comparing the normal strap, 11, to our measure, which is yi, we find that our client is j/3 inch erect, so I lower the back y^ inch as from A to i, and raise the front ]/2 inch as from K to i, and draw a line from M to i, which is yi inch above K. Points i, 1

indicate the pattern for the ereet form on Dia-

gram A. The stooping form The solid lines represent lines

are for the stooped

on Diagram B.

illustrated

the normal figure, the broken figure

from the

following measures: Strap, 10 J^; upper shoulder, 24; half of upper shoulder is 12, one inch less is 11

By comparing this amount with the strap measure, which is }4 inch less, we find that our client is yi 2.

Lower

front

a line from

Nora.—

-I

same amount

to 3^ inch

as from below K, as

K to

the following manner:

blade, but

only iiyi, then we have a

and

],^

measures 12,

then

the lower

inch smaller I

J to i.

Whenever blade is smaller than normal and point moved back say J/o inch, point H must recede ]^ inch as from H to i, N to i and Q to i. The small blade is indicated by broken lines marked i, i, i, and the large blade by dash and dot lines marked 2, and whatever front of scye is moved forward or I

back the shoulder must be changed

one-half

amount forward or back. Diagram D represents an ordinary standing collar. A to B is J^ the neck. B to C is ij^ inches, or to style and fancy. inch and D to 2 is ^ inch. A to I is Diagram E represents a standing turn-down colJ/^'

lar.

A A D A

to to to

half neck.

and B to C is i^ inches. F and C to E is 2 inches. I is one inch and D to 2 is the same. 3 and 3 to 4 is i inch.

Diagram F

straight

standing collar and

connection with a

Draw

as illustrated in

Diagram G.

Make

erect in

I is

the lower

half of

at 2.

work are drafted

a normal

find in practice that very few ladies are

of diagrams in this

sometimes used

stooped, the most of them being erect, therefore a

number

inch less than half of

Raise the back )4 inch, as from

inch stooped.

The normal blade

bust.

blade than normal, and we recede J^ inch, as from to

solid lines represent the

two-thirds of breast, as from

shoulder

to K.

In a normal figure point

say 111/2 and half of the lower shoulder

we have

the division of bust for).

shoulder measure. If

14 bust (this

measure

will

measures.'

In a normal pattern the blade from

a circle as indicated

larger circle as per line I

to 3

shown

—

by line

to the neck, or to

—

top collar,

make

from

3 to 2 as

3, 4, is

sewed on

Yi of smaller circle; shape

diagram.

frill

Inside edge

band. Diagram

r -*:^,

V u

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

GENERAL INFORMATION. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. To

insure a perfect fitting garment for

and forms

FOR BREECHES. all

shapes

necessary to take particular pains

when taking the measure. these measures be what

matters not whether

well to

it is

remove

may be on our

that

waist, for

takes but a

Place a square under the arm and

make

mark

with chalk at bottom of scye in front and back of

make a mark in center of back opposite mark made near arm; then proceed to measure. arm, then

Place measure at top of back at neck (socket bone) and measure to front of arm to chalk-mark; this measure is called strap. Then continue the measure under the arm and up to top of neck; this measure

Then place end

of tape in

the center of back, between and opposite the arm or on an average of 4)2 inches down from top of neck; let tape lay over top of shoulder under the arm and starting

Then

measure.

back

point;

to front of

this

the

lower shoulder

take measure from top of neck at

down to lower down to full length

neck; then continue

part of bust for top of dart, then of waist

Ne.xt

front.

measure side length from

under part of arm to top of hip; then length of back from top of neck to waist, and full length of garment desired.

Place square under arm and measure

down

Next elbow and to hand for length of sleeve. measure around arm at shoulder for scye, then width The breast measure is taken at elbow and hand.

moderately close above the bust; then lower tape

it remain in regular position in back, and measure easy over the largest part of bust. The waist measure is taken snug over the band of the skirt; for a longer garment it is necessary to take the

front, letting

hip measure.

FOR SKIRTS.

Measure the hip.

Also,

bottom.

front, side

make

ankle for length.

chair, lady being in a sitting position.

THE SHORT MEASURES. short instead of the shoulder measures are

If the

arm up to neck at back, then hold tape arm and measure over shoulder to mark in center of back opposite bottom of scye; this measure is called first over shoulder. Then measure from front of scye over shoulder to bottom of scye close up to arm in back; this measure is called second over-shoulder, or closing measure. Then take depth of scye from top of neck to point marked in center of back on a level or horizontal line with bottom of arm-scye; this measure is called the depth of scye. These are the regular measures used. The cutter

bodice

few minutes to sew them on.

neck and

client's dress

the upper shoulder.

knee and

wanted, take the regular strap from bottom of scye

with these obstructions in our way;

taken from waist to seat of the

bows and other trimmings

impossible to get a correct measure

all

may be

rise

termed the short actual

measures or the long shoulder measures; either can be applied on this system. Before taking the measure

Measure from waist

The

and back length, waist and

note of what size around the

in front of in front of

may

take any other measure that he can apply in

practice.

CUTTING THE CLOTH. All patterns

according to

are without seams, and

correct

way

garments,

this

method

hold that this

the only

of drafting the various styles of ladies'

for, unlike the

gentlemen's garments, they

vary a great deal in the amount or for

of drafting

number

of seams,

we have basques and waists with one, two and

three side bodies, also one to two darts; sleeves with

one or two seams;

skirts with four to eleven gores;

most correct method is garments without seams and add seams

so the easiest as well as the to cut ladies'

and outlets when cutting tHe cloth. In laying the pattern on the goods the forepart should lay so that the front seam of the first dart will run with the tread or lengthwise with the material, of first dart will then be on the bias; of second dart on the length of seam and the front seam of second dart will be on the back goods and center seam of the back should lay The the bias. at top and in from the edge at of goods with edge Lay the side body so that inches. two waist about under-armpiece to match and back, the it matches

the back

seam

the side body.

The center

of sleeve should run lengthwise.

The

SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. front of skirt

usually cut on

the fold and

all

bias

are sewed up separate and put together the same as

edges of the gores go to the back and the straight edges to the front unless there be an extra back gore,

when

the bias edges of the

back gores meet the bias

edges of the side gores.

gentlemen's garments.

have a

It is well to little

little

extra size across the chest.

too large over the bust

far better

snug, and unless the lady has a large bust well to allow a

MAKING TO TRY ON.

little

than

will

extra size over the bust and

fill

up with stiffening and wadding. Large sized sleeves should be interlined with fibre chamois or scrim; also the skirt should be it

In silk waist or

when other

for the waist, the lining

lining

goods goods

cut and

placed on a form or

fitted

the

thin material fitted,

dummy

lining.

used

then the

and the outside

In cloth or woollen

it is best to cut the cloth for the try-on. In basting up the waist for try on the back, side-body

interlined with

same

material.

French canvas, cut on the bias, 8 to lo inches wide, should be put in the bottom of the skirt. The bottom of skirt is finished with a corduroy or strip of

and underarm pieces should be sewed together, as it is found that the basting will not hold the waist

velvet binding.

together close enough;

above the natural waist and button on to a waist, so that the skirt will hang on the shoulders instead of

basted,

must be done

very carefully or the seams will pull apart.

seams,

seams

also the darts,

The

side

should be basted with

the

and the darts should not be cut out until after the garment is tried on. The sleeves and collar should be basted into try-on, and in delito the outside

cate shades or light weight goods the skirt lining

be cut out and the lining.

and the outside goods cut from and other light weight materials

the goods and linings are basted together and sewed together in the seams; the seams are pressed open

and bound.

In woollen goods, the

goods and lining

^ ^

dress reform skirt should reach

the hips.

the

2 to 3

inches

tailor-made gown, suit or wrap

there should be no braiding or trimming of any kind, for in order to give

the stricdy tailor-made effect

fancy trimmings must be

all

may

fitted

In silk

The

Seams and edges may be all

ornamentations must be

great left

number

first

left off.

stitched or strapped,

and

strictly tailor-made.

class tailors will insist

on the

forepart overlapping the right forepart in front,

the backtack being laid to the right the

gentleman's coat.

ÂŤ^ ÂŤ^ ÂŤ^

same

on a

CHAS. ÂŤ^i*

t3^

e^"*

The Designing, Cutting and

Ci?^

of all Kinds

G arments ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

Taught

Evening Classes when necessary. Tuition

Instructions given daily (except Sunday)

from 9 A. M.

must be paid

4 P. M.

(^^

<^*'

INCREASING THEdemonstrated manner

t^^

tÂŁ^

popularity of the Art of Ladies'

in a

are seeking the best

entirely satisfactory to us,

system

STONE

/Vlal(ing of

and Gentlemen's

Isadies'

who

President and General Manager

<5^

advance in

all cases.

t2^

Garment

Cutting,

and should be

as taught

sufficient to

this

School,

impress upon those

that

are prepared to impart information and thorough instruc-

we aim

make our work

tion not equalled in this country.

Our

facilities are

a pupil, and indorsed

ment, and

fill

find

unequalled, and

him

as competent, he

fully

prepared to take a position

when we have any

instructed

first-class establish-

with acceptability to his employer and credit to us as his instructor.

each session a greater

demand than we

the acknowledged superiority of our Systems, and

The Systems

so complete that

are capable of

accommodating.

This we attribute to

an acceptable tribute to our proficiency as instructors.

taught by us have received universal endorsement from the Cutting Fraternity as correct in

theory and reliable

Our charge The time

in practice.

for a

thorough course of instruction

One Hundred Dollars

usually occupied by students in perfecting themselves

few require more time, but we have no limit as to time for instruction, as leave our school until

are satisfied of their perfection.

We cannot

paid in advance.

about four weeks, although some it is

our desire that no one shall

afford

have pupils leave us with

but an indifferent knowledge of the theory of garment cutting; they must be perfect before we will furnish

them with a certificate.

Under no circumstances

will

of the pupils to satisfactorily use the Systems taught them.

issue

diplomas unless convinced of the

ability

... .

RELIABLE MODEL PATTERNS ~><FORNr=C_

BARMENTS

LADIES' SIZE

EACH FULL SET i 00 S i o 00

Basque, bust

28-40

Jackets, any style, bust

28-40..

D. B. Reefer, bust

28-40..

Cutaway Coats, bust

SIZE

Riding Breeches, waist

20-32

10.00

Leggins

i.oo..

10.00

Caps

28-40..

i.oo..

10.00

Bicycle Coats, bust

28-40

D. B. Frock, bust

28-40

1.25

12 .00

Bicycle Skirts, waist

20-32

D. B. Ulster, bust

28-40

1.25

Golf Capes, bust

28-40

D. B. Vest, bust

28-40

5.00

Double Capes, bust

28-40

Costume

20-32

.75

7-5Â°

Three Decker Cape, bust.

20-32

.50

10 .00

20-32

1.50

10 .00

Riding

Skirt, waist

Divided Riding

Skirt, waist

.50

.00

Single Sleeves

..28-40

28-40

EACH

Works on

ruttingf ^^^

Stone's

. - -

of TheanAuthor active part

this in

System in

our profession, and after

all

^ ^ ^ ^ cutter,

practical work,

and organized

his

cutters' societies.

has

always ready to exchange ideas with leading

now

these twenty years of hard study, he has

having hundreds of pupils using

who have

has spent twenty years at the cutting board; he has taken

advancing the custom

always been a leader

students

*•*.

and Gentlemen's

Garments

faction of

New Superlative System

Ladies'

•8e;®c'

Designing and Cutting

•

men

—

FOR SALE AT OL'R OFFICE.

methods

and we

of cutting,

carried off medals and prizes at conventions held

the satis-

you

refer

our

by the National Custom

Cutters' Association of America.

Stone's Superlative SvJstem of Cutting laadies' Garments, Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System (new), Stone's Superlative Trouser Sjjstcm (new),

Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer SvJstem, is

what we teach

5.00

Stone's Paramount Coat, Vest and Trouser System,

The above works on Cutting

$10.00

5.00

our School, and

will

5.00

3.00

be sent prepaid by

mail on receipt of price.

Send Chicago Exchange or will

Postoffice

Order and the book

will

be sent by mail.

No book

be sent C. O. D.

Correspondence must,

in all cases,

be addressed to the house.

Address

all orders to

THE CHAS.

STONE

CO.

194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL All communications will receive

prompt

attention.

THE CHAS.

STONE

CO.

——

CUTTING SCHOOL194-196 La Salle Street,

Terms

for Instruction— to

For a complete course of Instruction Coat System, alone Vest System, alone Trouser System, alor.e Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters

(to

CHICAGO

be paid in advance

Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's

Garment Cutting (time unlimited)

Gra rading. Boys and Children

$100 00 50 GO 25 00 35 00 50 00 50 00 100 00

LADIES' CUTTING For complete course of Ladies' Garments Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts

$100 00 50 OO 25 00

PRACTICAL CUTTERS Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone " " Trouser System, alone

•'

$ 50 00

30 00 15 00 15 00 25 00

Vest System, alone Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters

PRACTICAL CUTTERS Eor special and

private instruction In measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5.00 to $25.00

I^°This

a Special Feature.

Address, CHAS. J. The Chas. J. Stone (

)

STONE,

Priuate

Co. Cutting School,

Office,

CHICAGO, ILL.

-^STQNE•S RELIABLE BLOCK PA^ERNS•^ '

PRICES OF PATTERNS IN SETS. Men's Overcoats, from 33

to 42 breast

measure

Undercoats,

33 to 42

Trousers,

29 to 42 waist

Vest,

32 to 42 breast

32 to 42 bust

Ladies' Jackets, Ulsters,

Dolmans,

etc.,

Undercoats,

10 to 18

Trousers,

10 to 18

Vests,

it is

waist

seam

customer, and,

6 00

cent, will be allowed

all

orders over $25. 00.

whether Cut to Measure given or Regular Blocks. -

$100

j^o

it is

for all

the following measures are necessary:

which should be given as taken over the

taken over the coat,

(the hip

This measure

vest,

and

be so used.

will

Undercoats to order are: Length of

and seat measures

located).

•

----..-. ....-.- -2

especially stated that

breast, waist, hip

6 00

for Overcoats,

The measures necessary

r^Or special n^a-tternS

unless

10 00

•

Cape, or other Fancy Overcoats

The Breast Measure

10 00

-.-.-.

Overcoats, any style or size

....

Prices of Single Patterns, Trousers and Vest, each

$12 00

A discount of 15 per

Undercoats, any style

•

32 1042 bust measure

Boys' Overcoats, from 10 to 18 years

coat, length of sleeve

measure to be taken around the form where the

of vast importance for

all skirt coats.

possible, a concise description of the figure for

For Vests and Trousers the usual measures.

The form

whom

it is

Get height

intended.

customer should be

briefly

described. All orders

for Patterns must be accompanied by a cash Remittance of at

least

50 percent.

of the amount ordered, to receive attention. Address

all

orders to

THE CHAS.

STONE

CO.

194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL

CUTTERS' AND TAILORS' SUPPLIES. A

Selected Assortment of Tailors' Implements of every description. The Best in the Market, and the Tools most generally used, at

3K 4

reasonable prices.

;n-

.!;:v'VL.<f

:>k< BttW

I*/.

r';^.

T^-V

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