Treatiseoncuttin00scot by David Mannock

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a a

CUTTING GARMENTS TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM: CONTAINING

FIFTY DIAGRAMS AND DESIGNS REDUCED TO

MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLES. %. ACCOMPANIED BY

A PEKIODICAL

YU^

B3r

EEPORT OF FASHIONS.

kcOTT & WILSON, 146

BROADWAY.

NEW YORK: 1841.

Southern District of JVeiv York,

Be Oistrict,

ss.

Remembered, That on

have deposited

day of June, Anno Domini 1841, Scott & Wilson, of the said of a Book, the title of which is in the words following, to wit

the twenty-iiinih

at this Office the title

" A Treatise on Cutting Garments to fit the Human Form containing Fifty Diagrams and Designs, reduced tc Accompanied by a Periodical Report of Fashions. By Scott & Wilson, 146 Broadway." Mathematical Principles. ;

The right whereof they claim as Authors and Proprietors, Act to amend the several Acts respecting copy-rights."

conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled "

CHAS.

BETTS,

Clerk of the Southern District of JVetc York.

v>r/

f-/;5f''/

PREFACE. In offering

this

Work

which have induced them

for the patronage of the

pubhsh so copious a

Trade, the Authors think proper to suggest some of the reasons

treatise at this time.

In the year 1827, Mr. Wilson, of the present firm, invented and secured the patent for the Square and Scales

— which he secured by copy-right. — he became owner of the systems taught

accompanying the Square Rule System, and the securing by copy rights

when Mr. Scott came

establishment changed owners in 1834,

this

country by the Square Rule,

in this

all

— by invention, purchase

Subsequently

last,

The

into the concern.

since that period, have been almost exclusively confined to the Shoulder-Measure

System

until

various editions published

— waiving the republication

of the various Breast-Measure Systems, and those on Measurement, to some subsequent period, when the members

of the firm should be better able

up the subject

to take

of so great importance necessarily demanded.

time

when we hoped

be able

do proper justice

our rights on the subject of Cutting relied for

fact

that they could procure

that extraordinary attention

which one

forward to the

our patrons and ourselves, by publishing a compilation of

who had

all

who

our business,

—

;

that about all of the beginners in the sale of infringements

travelled as agents for this establishment until they

persons

credit, or

evade the penalty of the law

sensibility,

who

— having learned some one of our system.s — thought — by merely changing a on

;

to,

line

and thus risking the wear and tear of conscience, and the penalties of the

which was scarcely perceptible when they

rule-venders above alluded

upon

had become so indebted

and being persons of no fixed principles, thought they could

law, have pursued a grovelling, self-degrading course, until

The

us by Patent or Copy-right.

no more systems on

superior to any other

the draft

— while we were anxiously looking

— our ears were frequently saluted with the names of upstarts

which caused the greatest regret, was

our publications, were either those

mean time

patronage upon the sole gicund of having shown themselves capable of copying some one of the systems

which had long since been secured

The

and give

in full,

In the

many

of them have lost even the flickering spark of moral

engaged

first

in their

present abandoned course.

have not only done us great injustice, but they have robbed many of the trade

shadow of an equivalent

and justice demands that

their career of mischief

properly checked, which can only be effectually done by placing in the hands of the trade a work comprising about

all

of their hard earnings, for scarcely a

the rules extant, so that iis

when

;

may

a catch-penny enters the store of any of our patrons, he

see the work copied by him

readily as he could the likeness of himself in a mirror.

The reason above

noticed

not without weight in inducing a publication of this kind, but

by another, of paramount importance.

which was

sufficiently full

and diversified

ments which the practical artist

known

It is

called

that,

to give a student

upon

to furnish.

to render

Trade demand,

at this time, a

trust

are governed

a partial idea of the plans for cutting every variety of gar-

The one

alluded to was published by Mr. Wilson in 1S33,

and contains 40 Diagrams and Desisns of Garments, with Explanations, and bound interests of the

previous to this publication, there was only one of the kind,

standard work on Cutting, and while

morocco.

feel diffident

believe that the

of sufficient

ability

a work of this kind so unexceptionable as to ensure the general praise of the American Tailor of this

generation,

we cannot look forward

the last fifteen years, has raised

to the

next— when

the

Trade

will

have advanced

at the

same

ratio

which, within

so high in a knowledge of the Trade, and in the eyes of the world

— without

claiming, as an excuse for our misjudgment, the present comparative infancy in works of this kind, and a want of those

precedents which are the result only of a

liberal, free

interchange of opinions,

matters relating to our

art,

all

tho.=e

of skilful practice in the business.

Notwithstanding the present dearth of knowledge on the subject upon which

must be a commencement

the publication of such

works as are

a zeal befitting the subject, have laid hold of every thing which the present

volume

the

result

much

fit

for a Tailors

this

work

treats,

vocabulary

we concluded would

;

are aware there

and we therefore, with

materially benefit the Trade, and

experience, labor, investigation and expense, which

most respectfullv

iledicated to the Tailors of the United States,

their Respectful

and Ob't Serv'ts,

SCOTT & WILSON.

GENERAL CONTENTS, ARGUMENT, The

which give

and balance

ilt

Measurement

now member

plan was

forming those parts

garments.

— by forming an angle

by Mr. Henderson, of Zanesville, Ohio,

in front of the scye, (as invented

bottom of the scye,

first

govern several other points

—

down

laid

secured by Patent

in the

Standard and Measurement.

some

a plain form,

This system, as also

measures are taken and applied; carefully directed and marked.

the various

several others of pretended recent invention, to the

for

of the Legislature of that State,) and measuring from said angle, to regulate the length of both shoulder

mode

with the

permanent

for the regulation of all

measures as have been approved by experience,

and the pitch of the shoulder and waist, as also

points,

Coat

work are founded upon measurement

various Systems published with this

points in a Coat, or u[)on proportions of such

&c., &c.

founded upon the theory of obtaining the distance from the top of the

point on a line around the body, parallel with the bottom of the scye, whicli

year 1S27, by Mr. Wilson, by what was termed the Square Rule System, with

the Standard, invented by

Mr. Wilson, there was attached several

sliding arms, and

elastic straps to slide up under the arms, and thus form a line parallel with the bottom of the scye from the front ot'

both scyes across the back, for getting the distances from the top of the Coat at the neck, to such points on the

of Measurement, upon which

whether

this

plan

This Patent, therefore, secured the fundamental principle

formed, as the cutter might require.

line thus

parallel

all

the

works

now

that

upon the subject are based

treat

;

and

very questionable,

not more practicable than any one invented since, with the single exception, that the principle invented

by Mr. Henderson requires that a strap be used of sufficient length to extend round the body, close under the arms,

and clasp

upward

at front

—thus

enabling the cutter to form a starting point on the breast, from which to measure back !nd

to the socket-bone,

be noticed as an hnportant desideratum, for

.still

the

garment be out of balance.

way, for by what means can scye to the back-seam

whole dependence

for

fact, vital, to the

on the back-seam

a well established

for pitching the

fact, that all

strap extending round the body,

This

shoulder properly.

proof-measures

may

agree, and

pan

also preferable to one extending only

be ascertained how close to apply a measure that extends only from the front of the

For,

too loose, the customer does not feel

a correct measure rests

there can be no experience

to a point

and over the shoulder

will

— consequently,

;

and

too tight,

upon the experience and judgment of the measurer

the;

the

is ;

same

and the

and without practice,

student has no guarantee for those correct results so essential, and

success and reputation of a beginner in business.

The Shoulder-Measure System of proof-measures)

(or the

system regulating the permanent points

illustrated in the publication so plainly, as to

severally have over the different points in a garment that give

There are several plans of Measurement contained attention of the

practical

ilt

in this

show

garments by proportions

and shape about the shoulders.

work, an examination of which cannot

cutter, as well for their feasibility as their simplicity

;

and our present

to enlist the

fail

limits forbidding a

therefore refer the reader to the plates and explanations contained

detailed explanation of each,

the various applications, and the bearing they

the

body

of the work.

The cut by

proportions of the Breast-Measure

— has been

cutters in this country, in the

— as baing the

carefully revised, and brought

among

most talented

the

success of such persons,

evident, that the size at the breast

fit

them.

oldest, best understood,

and easiest mode

to the present standard of taste.

in the profession,

who

criterion for the

may

pitch of,

all differ in

There are some persons of

measure and

are aware there are

many

The

secret

prefer the Breast-Measure System.

attributable to their great care in taking

persons agree in size around the breast, they

shaped garments

and applying proof-measures

and shape about the shoulders.

;

for

is self-

For, while three

shape and position, so as to require three differently

the trade

who

alter for the different

forms according to the

(hrections of their judgment, which furnishes a reason for the great difference in the shape of garments that are l)y

those

who use one system, and endeavor

by Mr. Wilson

to cut

according to the same fashion.

1S27, that brought forth the invention of the Standard and

as heretofore noticed

;

and we now challenge

all

the

its

was by a knowledge of

cut

this fact

various slides and measuring aparatus,

pretended authors on Measurement, to produce a theory inch-

pendent of

this, that

has any merit at

all.

would not wish

but from a tinn conviction that, apart from this the bottom of the scye

— whether measured up

theory, riz.

down

— there

was patented, except the point on the breast toward the to us,

— having

not have been

be understood as mentioning this for self-nraUilalicii,

— ascertaining

the distance from the top of (he Coat to no improvement on Measurement since the Standard

front, to get the pitch

of the shoulder by, and which belongs

purchased the improvement of Mr. Henderson, as above mentioned

made without

original in itself;

the original

consequently,

their successful operation

all

;

for the

upon the distances secured by

System of Measurement wholly independent of also,

who

shall

patents on Measurement, dated since the one for the Standard, and dependent for

subject to the penalty of the law in all such cases.

There are persons

and which improvement, could

;

law on patents, requires that each principle secured by patent

that patent,

must have been an infringement upon

remains therefore, for the Trade

measures secured by the patent

the

to judge,

whether there

Standard and

for the

its

it,

and

anv

aparalus.

cut by the Breast-Measure, in consequence of a prejudice that has obtained with

many, by reason of their having previously adopted some mode of measuring and application, which was warrnnird as it was found to come so far short of varying to the different forms of men, that it did not self-varying, when by use

—

even change the shape of the fore-part and sleeves,

same

This,

individual.

say, has induced

the Breast-Measure, as the only alternative

;

many

conform with backs

new

to distrust all

which,

differently shaped,

theories,

and return

though intended

to the old

for the

mode of dividing

imperfect in theory, will however enable them to avoid utterly

spoiling garments, and by great care in the application of proof-measures, generally ensure a respectable

fit.

After fifteen years experience by practical men, upon theories differing from any before practiced upon, and furnishing

— as

whole Trade

those invented at that time

an unerring system for cutting garments, ciples

— new

did— the means and scope

Europe, as well as America, having been taxed

to the

Trade

— surpassing,

seems almost

in facility

of the Trade for their scrupulous investigation.

utmost

for so

;

and after the ingenuity of the

many

and correctness,

all

previous inventions, and calling upon the giants

Yet, however vaunting or self-conceited

— calculated

add

years, in aiming to furnish

egotistical to claim, at this late day, the authorship of prin-

strained to state, in truth and justice to ourselves, that this

of practice as they are perfect in theory

for investigation

to its

new work to the

may

contains rules for Cutting

appear,

are con-

— as simple and easy

fund of knowledge already acquired by those of hard

studying and long practice in our business, beyond any work of the kind hitherto offered to the Trade for patronage.

While

this

the student

work cannot

who has

fail

just

to benefit persons of experience

commenced

notoriety, which, without a superior

and

taste,

presents advantages of inestimable value to

practice in the art, and looking forward with a steady aim toward that enviable

knowledge of

his business,

he can never reasonably expect

to obtain.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATENT STANDARD. Make

a Standard of seven feet in length, and about one and a half inch thick

half inches, and supported by proper

feet, or

position of the customer.

Attach several slides to the Standard, as follows

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; One

near the lop, to which

Standard at right angles, and intended for measuring the stoop at

Another

will

the neck

be placed below, with a brass or steel band attached to

under the arms.

This

;

let

be divided into inches and

to fasten at the foot, so as to incline the top

made

it,

according to the natural

attached a slide crossing the

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;being inched, and moveable

long enough

in the slide.

extend across the back and

intended for sliding up under the arms, to show the distance the customer measures from the

neck to a point on the back at the centre, opposite the bottom of the arms. To this cross-strap extending under the arms, there are two measures attached, for taking the distance around the shoulders, (see directions with the specificaThere is also a tion of patent, and directions in copy-right granted to James G. Wilson, February 2Sth, 1827.) moveable

slide,

There

cross.

There may also be a

the one for finding the stoop at the neck,) for ascertaining the

same as

with an inched slide, (the

hollow of the waist at the back.

also another slide opposite the hips, with a piece attached, forming a Grecian

slide attached, with

an arm

for sliding to the fork, for ascertaining the length of inside

seam of Pantaloons. For

further directions, see engraving in this

work representing

the Standard

Directions for Dividing the J\Ieasures.

Should the measure from one-half.

This half

this

would be divided

thirds, si.\ths, twelfths,

around the front and bottom of scye and back

and twenty-fourths.

Should the measure from 2

into halves, fourths, eighths, -ixteenths,

2 be

The number of measures of paper maybe divided

to be thus divided

18, including the

as above directed, and the proportions

facility,

the divisions

private hand, as they cannot be sent

on paper

will

distances not

should be again divided into

measures from 17

marked with

marked

thus *

marked as above

;

fit

ink, ;

34 inches inclusive.

and the

strips pasted

Thin

on paste-

but as the Square and Scales can

only be substituted until the Square and Scales can be sent by

by mail.

scale divided from the measure taken from

sentence that

again divided into

124 inches would be the half; and

2.5,

and thirty-seconds.

board, and they will answer as well as the Square and Scales to draft a good

The

It is

and twenty-fourths.

strips

be used with more

be 26, 13 inches would be the

to 1,

divided into halves, fourths, eighths, sixteenths, and thirty-seconds.

thirds, sixths, twelfths,

1 to 1, will

be used to obtain the distance directed by every

and the scale divided from the measure taken from 2 to

This

confined, however, to the

first

2, will

be used to obtain

nine engravings in this Treatise, as

are not indicated for the use of the different Shoulder-Measures by the star

all

others

DESCRIPTION AND USE OF THE SQ,UARE AND SCALES. The numbers

on the long arm of the Square

in the

space where the strips are used, beginning with No. 45 and

The

running to 49, are the halves of the sizes they represent, as the scales are too short to admit them. strips,

have four different sizes on each one, and there are two scales of each size used

and short arms of the Square, and held

and running

5| inches,

by springs.

the short

the

at 2

taking the

to, for

back of the Square, figures representing the inches, and running from

the length of fork-seam

to 21 inches, are intended ior taking

scales, or

on the long

arm of the Square, commencing

a wire extending for the purpose of fastening the end of an inch-measure

length of inside-seam for pantaloons. 1

to their places

at a time, placed

of pantaloons at the top, when taking the length

of inside-scam. fjUjr'

When

draftmg by the Shoulder-Measure System,

diflereiit sizes at

will, in

a time

;

as, for instance

will frequently

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; should the measures from

be found necessary

and from 2

use two scales

ditTer in size, the cutter

such case, use them both, and draft by each as represented by the different Shoulder-Measure Systems. Description and Use of the JVeiv Square.

Let a common square be made of wood or metal, of about two arm, and about one and a half inches wide

;

it,

feet in the long

arm, and one foot

place the inches in the centre of the front surface

and inside edges place the tables according to the distances required

;

produce the points necessary

in the short

and near the

front

to give the drafts

on Plates 11, 12, 13, &c.

Table A, commencing

and running

whole shoulder-measure used

division of the

at 8 inches

commencing

to 15', is

a division of the whole shoulder-measure, and producer

Table D, on the inside of the square, commencing

the front of scye.

to find the centre

3| inches and running to 7 inches,

6J inches and running to 14 inches^ is a Tablt

of scye at 21, and establishes 22 on Plate 11.

J of scye, and produces the width of scye as from 15 to 16

on Plate 11.

Table B, on the short arm of the square, commencing opposite 2^

iVom 13

being the bottom of scye

to 17,

square, take the

number

the points required ihe tables

;

and F,

and

that the in

also, to obtain the width of

man measures round

back from 5

the shoulder, and the

9 inches,

to 6

is to

same number

bottom and width of scye.

in the table will

measuring round the arm where the scye would come, the size of

to find the

obtain the distances

on Plate 11, &c.

that

measure

use

this

produc<

used

DESCRIPTION OF THE RULER. Let

a Ruler be

made from 16

half an inch space in the centre,

24 inches long, one-eighth of an inch thick, and about 2 inches wide.

upon which indent the inches, halves and

At each

quarters.

Allow

side of the space, or

line-

of inches, the tables agreeing with proportions of the Shoulder-Measures, and proportions of such other measures as

may

be required,

will

so that the scales

be indented,

may be

as single and

stiff'

little

the several scales thus indented at the proper distances from either end,

several scales will be distinguished

may be made

of separate

paper, and attached to the Ruler by springs placed across the Ruler, so as to confine the

In this case,

scales on the surface of the Ruler, at the edge. the Ruler,

The

complicated as possible.

In place of the scales being indented on the Ruler, they

different characters or letters.

pieces of wood, metal, or

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;beginning

from the edge a half inch back, which space

will

would be well fitted

form a groove or shoulder lengthwise

with the scales.

TER3IS. Treatise on

Do.

Cutlmg Garments, do.

Do.

$10 00

-------------3

Report of Fashions, per annum, do.

those who have previously purchased a Book on Cutting from us or either

of our predecessors,

New York

do.

single copy,

-.--...--

00 00

2 00

.--.----------100 -..----.---.-......... -3 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 00

London Report of Fashions, per annum, Minor of Fashion,

Square and Scales,

3 00

New

Square with proportions indented,

Paper Square,

for pasting

on a plain square

Tailors' Shears, Tapes, Crayons,

d|-c.,

be sent by mail,

i^-c, conslanlltj

on hand and for

sale as low as

can be purchased elseiehen

PL. ATE,

/â&#x20AC;¢J/ir/fro// /.///it'y/y/y>//f

^^ 'J/^/fii

X"!

'Sfr

.1.7.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE Fig. 1st.

Take

the size

ot"

E)rf.ss

Then

waist and breast under coat.

No.

Coat.

hutton the coat, and mark on the back seam at the top,

and at 3 opposite the shoulder blade, and at 4 as the length of waist. 2d. 3d.

Then measure from 1 to 3 and 4 and 5 as the length of the coat. From 2 on back seam to the width of back, extending the measure

to the

elbow, and to the length of sleeve at

the hand. 4th.

Take measures of

5th.

From From From From From From

6th.

7th. Stli.

*9th.

*10th.

N. B.

the

arm

and the

at 6, 7,

to length

by front of scye on

line

to top

of hip at 8

by front of scyo on

line

to waist,

front of scyc

line

to 3

line

2 on back

and hand.

wrist,

of breast, or lapelle at front.

front of scye,

seam over

— Point 2 on back seam

;

on back scam,

and round

to 1,

being from u

..... -

back between the shoulders.

the centre of the

is at

For

the shoulder, around by front of scye, and back on line 2 to 2,

2 to 2

drafting, select the scales*

corresponding with measures 9 and 10, being the measures taken from the socket-bone aroimd the scye to the same place, or

from

1 to 1,

place, or from 2 to 2.

and from the centre of the back between the shoulders around by front of scyc

The measure from

1 to 1 is

to the

same

called the upper shoulder measure, and the one from 2 to 2,

the lower.

For Over Coats,

the

measures of breast and waist

of one inch to the measure from (Cr"

and from 2

will

be taken over the body coat, and there should be an allowance

to 2 each.

For application of Pi-nof measures, see Plate

and the directions.

Fig.

1st.

2d. 3d. 4th. •5th.

Take the size of breast and waist under coat. Then measure by line A from socket-bone to length From socket-bone, by line B, to length at the hip. From 2 to 2 on Fig. 2. From 1 to 1 on do. Fig.

Vest.

at front.

Pantaloons.

from thence extend the measure down to Then take the length of the inside seam. Then measure Then measure round the hips at 2 by line C. Then the waist at the smallest place between the lower rib and hip. line Then round Then round knee at hips, as D. the thigh at fork, as line E. part of round at the most prominent measure across sole where line I passes under the foot. Then the F calf at G ankle at H, and foot at I. Then measure from line I at the sole, at the inside, around the heel, to the line at the outside of the foot. Then measure

Measure from

at top of pantaloons at the side, to 2 at top of hip-bone

;

3 at the knee, and to 4 at the bottom to the length required.

—

from the sole where the heel commences around the heel

N. B. closely.

— There

no necessity

for

to the opposite side.

measuring around the foot except

for gaiter-bottoms-

and pants that strap down

PLATK XV

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PLATE,

PLATE SEE PLATE 10-ON MEASUREMENT FOR DRAFTING BY

Back vievv.-Pass a customer would wish

11.

WILSON.

A, about as t.ght as the around the shoulders, as represented by lines cross at 2 establ.shes a starting h.m sw.ng his arms as if at work, so that the Then measure and take the distance from 1 to 2, 3 and 4.

line or inch n.easure

wear

h.s coat, let

Then see the size of the double shoulder-.easure, ; against the fron of scye a front view-Place your thumb close om 2 to 5 as width of back, on line D. Then see Then make a chalk mark a inches for the distance to 12, (see line H.) tie end of your measure, and go 5 Hold your thun.b on he measure at 12 (th to 12. line Then start the measure from 2 over the shoulder, as 12. up to 1, or .he socket-bone. Then take the \^ same as taken from 2 to 12,) and take the distance Take the d, a the shou er-blade_see line C of part prominent most the over 6 3_see line E. Then from 12 to take the length where the scye would naturally come. Then around the scye, or measure around the shouldei-jomt lino I. by shown as hip, around the breast and waist, and the of coat, length of arm, length of lapelle, the sizes

iHn

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Explanation of Measiiremenl hi Plate ^•o.

apply

Drafting Plate 12.

across the back ; place the the arms, letting the long arm extend Place the short arm of the Square under one of upon it sqi-are close up under he arm the long arm of the square rest Hat of your hand under the other arm, and let Ihen measure from 1 around then take the distance iVom 1 to 3 and 4. then make a dot at 3, and remove the square ; Then take the length of elbow and sleeve fi-on shoulder to 2 again. shoulder to 1 again, and from 2 around the Then take the size of Breast and > a . the arm at 6 and 7, and the hand. the centre of the back, and the sizes of Measure and to The measure from 1 to 1 is called the Upper Shoulder ..ider the coat, and length of lapelle. and called Table Square, the upon placed The Lower Shoulder Measure is 2 to 2 the Lower Shoulder Measure. be established to points The Table D. 4 the Upper Shoulder Measure is placed upon the Square, and called giving i^t and in bearings appropriate proportions of each measure to effect their ;„ draftm^^ so as to allow the proper a plumbPlace Plato 10..^ see directions for drafting the coat ab: t the shoulders, are du'l v explained in the ha the lie, under waist the Mark at the hollow of drop below the hips. Hne at the front of scye at 13, and let the lead Plate 12. (CT This measure is applied from 20 to 21 in measure from thence to the centre of back at tack. ;

t^ J^

H-

measure

recommended

for

use on forms of unnatural attitude only. =C3

Observations on Plates

and

12.

distance ,s increased measunng-if the man is round-shouldered, this In obtaining the distance from 1 to 3 in and 2S is decreased. to from 21 coat the 9 and the spring of accordm. to the natural variation from a correct form whilst it lengthens at point the 12, shortens standing erect, The up :r shoulder-measure being shorter than for a man increases the persons, of form this largest for and the lower shoulder-measure being the the d. tance from 1 to 4 reversed to is draft ^v^iole the For a man standing erect, front of scye. distance iVom the centre of the back to the line at ^ -^;;; ^ the horizontal After thus forming the shoulders above with his shape. J distance ot half an inch in taking that error an be should there if obtaimng the distance from 1 to 3 in measurement, ;

;

^•^--;

olm

-">"^;'7;

by the proportions above the line are regulated . ^^^ ^^^ «:. materially atfect the coat, as the .J then proceed to form the you will scye, the of bottom the at drawn the line haviii. formed that part of the coat above to 21 to where oneSweep from 3 to 21 at 7, then square out horn 20 part of.the c at by the waist-mca^ure. the pitch sel.-varies and from 3 to 21, and this forms point 21. quaner of the waist-measure will touch the sweep

will

at the waist

according to the measure.

mnsures self-varied according to the measures are formed from 1 to 5 and 4, are In drafting the back, the angles that according to any fashion or form of man. , „ ,. taken so that the scye-gorge will be varied so that tor ^> same principle of angles with that of the back,

---'--

teve-heal is^ob^ained by the

of men, or changes of iashion, front of scye, as is shown from

will self-vary,

to 6

on sleeve

so as to draft.

centre of the back give the correct distance from the

to the

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