Book
ZLwentietb Century Instruction 7"^
ARTISTIC Cadie^ Sailor System
•
.
-
I^
MW
Innnill
(.COPYRIGHTED)
VIENNA LADES' TAILORING INSTITUTE 5 W. 14th ST..
NEW YORK
CITY. U. S. A.
/
MAY. 7
'902
CLASS? CV XXC.
—
inch more put this measure down will be smooth than the tape line calls for " do not forget this. WAIST. Take this measure around the smallest part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch. I
—
—
FRONT. —From add
1
collar
bone to waist
line in front
inch to this measure.
BACK — From
TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
"
BUST.— Stand behind the lady—This measure is taken over the most prominent point of the bust and take this well up over the shoulder blades in the back measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line
—
NO.
aim** COPY
TO TAKE MEASURE.
Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape the back of the neck. Carry the ends forward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw very snug straight across the back and place a pin or line across
mark at the upper edge
of the tape line, in the center
measure from the large joint in the neck This measure must be taken to the pin or mark.
of back, then
Do
exactly as the instructions call for.
of
an inch.
not deviate i
See special instruction for applying this
neck to waist line. measure well up under the arm and down to the waist line put this measure down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for. NECK. Around the bare neck easy. ARM'S EYE.— Around the arm snug just over the
Measure down line A from line B the height of shoulder measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and \ of the bust measure straight out and place dot Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot
point of the shoulder.
Finish the balance as per general instructions.
joint in
UNDER ARM. —Take
this
—
—
ARM MEASURE. 1st.
From
point of shoulder to point of elbow
—the
hand resting on the chest. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. 2d. 3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the shoulder with the arm bent take this measure
—
snug.
measure.
,
1
1
Around the
elbow 5th.
—take this
arm below the the same manner.
largest part of the
measure
Around the hand
in
tight
— From waist line the length desired. —Around the hips "easy" six inches
SKIRT. HIPS.
the waist
1
.
Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have ,
ning at dot
below
1
a narrow back in proportion to their bust measure. Take the width of back measure., starting at the center of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of the bust measure in locating dot Take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be 6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin1
4th.
S
2.
.
1
In drafting the front take the
differ-
ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6 4 and add this
——
line.
would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Use these same proporto 42
TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. Be very
back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder and dot should be only three inches from dot 9. Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will apply to othejf meaeureii-^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be careful in taking
the
1
1
9 inches.
^^"iV:\:l:\-.
*:.••.
tions in drafting for other measures.
IMPORTANT.—The actly as the
measure should be taken excall for do not deviate to The bust, waist and neck measures are
—
instructions
please anyone.
—
taken
in even inches for instance, should the waist measure be 23, put down 23 should it be nearest 22, put it down 22 take the bust and neck measure in the same manner.
—
—
natural and on both
See that the lady stands
Ask
if
to wear the dress over, corset.
feet.
she has the same clothing on that she intends
To have a
and
perfect
especially inquire about the
fit
you must have a perfeet
measure. If
TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN.
you have any doubt about the measure take
over again before the lady leaves. or belt in
and press down to the point of mps, and take the measure the same as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken
front.
loose.
calls for.
Tie a cord around the waist tight
Do
it
not use a cord
taking the measure (except for children) as
make your basque
short waisted in back and For a very full bust the front measure should be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line it will
These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only
in connection
with our system.
\b~9Q£l LUirev 'J
BUST
BUST Waist
31
BUST
32
BUST
33
CENTER BACK. inch fr° m the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck dot 2 down line A fr° m 'i ne B and place dot 2.
Draft lines
A
and
B
-'4'
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
For long shoulders line
H
draft
Vx inch longer than
the proportionate shoulder
measure and place dot
Measure
straight
from dot
and
in
I
V
_.--....
Back
-.
-
Under Arm Neck Ann's Eve
15 I?
19 21
14 16 8
- -
Arm's Eye Measure. 13
"
11
_
'
To Locate Dot
12,
inch
3+ --
.
down 3/6
to draft line K.
...
Waist Front
1
and place dot 12. Use
letter
Bust
I
1
and 14
"
16
12.
— —
<<
18—2^
" "
20 22
% 23/
6
3U&.C
C SW\
SViA
For long
BIAS DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes l Place dot 9 on line E 1 /> inches from dot 6. Measure 1 yi, inches out from dot 13 and place new dot
:
13.
y mark on new
Place the
dot
2
Draft line
Measure
13 and
2 inches straight out
Measure 3{ inch
to dot
from dot ^ and place
new
dot 7.
up from new dot 1 and place dot X.
straight
X
Draft from dot
15.
with line N.
parallel
y
1
draft to dot
13.
Place the corner of square on dot the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot the length of under arm and place new dot 6. Place letter on dot and draft line E to new dot 6. Measure inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot
X
X
A 3^
Measure
X
18.
inches straight
;
A
Place letter
on dot
X
down from
and
dot
draft to dot
18 and
place dot 19.
19.
Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot from line J} and drafting to new dot 6.
For dot
a stout lady
2 and
with high or
new
place a
dot
3
lines.
For slender forms take See dotted
2 inches
up
shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted
full
3/j[
dart.
23
a small plait in the lining at the point
of the
bias
lines.
WAIST WITH ONE DART. Draft the same as for a plain waist
down
to the darts, omitting line
E-
Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 4. Extend line to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8-
H
H
Measure Measure
2^
less
place dot 12-
Measure
straight
V
Place the
Turn
10 and place dot on line Fthan the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and
up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on
mark on dot \\ and
2
the curve over
Draft lines
H
inches from dot
inch
1
L
and
M
and
draft line I to dot
line
G-
14.
draft line J.
down. Measure inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6straight
%
See diagram.
Measure Measure
from dot 15 and place dot 18down from dot 18 and place dot 19. on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19.
3 inches out
5 inches straight
Place letter
A
THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS. There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that
commands respect. For business, shopping, or railroad You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being
1
8
to
20
.
.
" 22 23 " 2 4 25 " 2627 " 28 z 9 " 3° " 32 3 Above
.
21
1
inches
2
2
X
-
3
-
-
VA
32 inches in same proportion. i-io of Waist Measure.
it
has no equal.
no matof Drafting Machines, Charts, and other contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. Not one of them can properly cut a tailor fitting costumeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; that can be done only on the material the same that a merchant tailor cuts for a man. First-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. Investigate before you make an investment. ter
TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT WAIST MEASURE.
travel,
treated as one,
where you
go.
The
market
is
full
BIAS FRONT. A
2 inches from the edge of cloth. one inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down from line B and place dot 2-
Draft line Draft line
B
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
This waist
is
very effective when the
bust is full with a small waist.
It
can be
cut with good effect on a true bias of both lining and material. Fifty (S50.00)
dollars
Reward
will be
paid for the conviction of any one infringing on any of our copyrights.
line
A
CENTRE BACK. Draft
A
lines
and
B
H
mch from
Measure the distance given line R and place dot 2. '
Dot 2 Neck Size
Bust Waist
36 22
Front
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
---
.-
14 16 8
-
—
12
16
edge and end of goods. neck table under dot 2 down line
the
J
yk 1
7 ,
A
NECK TABLE.
H 3
MEASURE.
in the
iya
lM
12 i-H;
«3 I 1/.
H
l
S
iM
from
SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. Draft line
A
1
Draft line
B
'
Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. mcn from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given B and place dot 2.
in the
neck table under dot
line
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
— — .
34 22 14 16 8 11
16
2 down
line
A
from
Y
Ivieasure 6 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. and place dot Measure yÂą of arm's eye measure straight down from dot
H
12.
Measure
3.^
inch
less
than the width of under arm form straight out from dot
12 and
place dot 13Place the corner of square on dot
6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the arm and place dot 14Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\. Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist.
length of under
TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAISTâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; BACK. A and B -/\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line
Draft lines
B
and place dot 2-
Dot 2
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
.
.
.
36 24 14
Back
16
Under Arm Neck Arm's Kye
11
8
16
A
from
line
SHIRT WAISTâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; BACK. i.
Draft lines
A
and
B
Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. in the neck table under dot 2 on
Measure the distance given from line B and place dot 2' 2.
*
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
l'
ne
A
TWO UNDER ARM For
all
waist measures up to 32
one inch. ter of
For
back
1
%
all
make
the center of back
waist measures over 32,
make
the cen-
table gives for the center of back,
the following changes
Take from
1%
Place letter
Q on
length of the 1
%
inches
l />
"
" side body
"
"
" front
'_•
1
Total,
inch.
" "
$}4
This gives two under arm shapes,
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. "
2^
inches each.
:
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes
:
.'
the style of goods will permit the two under arm
with good effect.
3^
under arm shape
—
4 straight up from dot 2 i Place dot 5 one measure. arm inch more than the under inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 Place dot 8 but one the actual length of arm measure.
forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material
the width of under
Making,
:
inch in from dot 2.
2
arm shape,
—
'2 inch more than tr. and place dot 8 in frorr. measure, arm under
dot 2 only one inch.
When
First
dot 5 in drafting line A.
Draft the same, placing dot
:
the back
"
Add
inches from dot 4.
Second under arm shape
For the side body, 3 inches. For under arm shape, $}4 inches.
Make
Place dot 5
Place dot 7 straight up from 3
inches.
For example take 42 bust and 30 waist.
The
SHAPES.
Bust
42
Waist
30
Front
15
Back Under Arm
17
Neck
ij
Arm's Eye
17
8
—
—
—
FOR VERY LARGE LADIES. BACK. Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H. FIRST SIDE BODY.
—
Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B-
J
/^ inches from
SECOND SIDE BODY. Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6 Place dot dot 5 inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B-
%
FIRST
UNDER ARM FORM.
A
same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 inch more than the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch Draft the
from dot
l
2-
SECOND UNDER ARM FORM. l Draft the same, placing dot 4 inch more than the under arm measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm measure up from dot 3See measure for practice.
A
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. Bust
50
Waist
40
Front
16
Back
17
Take from the "
Add "
This
front, ...
back, width of side body,. " under arm shape "
1
inch.
1
4
"
4^
"
Total 10^ give the width of the side body, each of under arm shape, each 2^.
will
Width
"
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
2%.
8 15 19
PRINCESS— FRONT. i.
Draft line
2.
Draft line
A H
inches from the edge of cloth.
'
/i inch ^rom the en ^ of" cloth. Measure the distance given in the front neck
3.
under dot
2
B
l
A
(according to size of neck) on line
fr°
m
table (on
the
curve)
B
and place dot 2. (on the curve) under
line
Measure the distance given in the neck table dot 3 on line B and place dot 3Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X5. and draft line C to dot 3Place letter C on dot 6. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m ine 7. 4.
X
'
B
and
place dot 4'4 of the arm's eye
Measure
8.
measure on
line
A from
line
B
and place
dot 5-
Draft line
Measure Bust number and Measure 12. and place dot 7Measure 1 3
D
D
place dot
.
dot 5-
from
line
than the table gives for
on dot
and front
darts
draft line
measure
E
down from
straight
g
from dot 7 and
in
straight
dot
to dot 6-
down from
2 and
dot
place dot
A-
Place letter
6.
Measure
17.
arm measure
]£ of the width of both
A
less
(J.
Measure the length of
15.
6 inches from dot 5-
5 )i inch
dot
the length of under
place dot 0Place letter 14.
1
to
straight out beginning
out line
11.
8 on
X
Draft from dot
9. 10.
A
and
(curve up) on dot
down from
2 inches
draft line
6 and
dot
F
to dot 8-
place dot 9-
Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on 19. line F from dot 8 and place dot 10the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot Measure 20. 18.
line
G
H.
]4
21.
22.
Measure one inch from dot Measure }{, of the width of
H and place dot
12the second dot from dot
12 and
place
dot 13.
23.
Measure
first
dart to line
6
and
up from the center of the second
dart to line
G
and
up from the center of the
straight
place dot 14.
24.
Measure
straight
place dot 15. Place the 25.
26. 27.
mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot K in like manner. to meet 6 inches and N &
y2
Draft lines I, J and Draft lines L &
M
from the center of the
H. straight
down
dart.
6^
from dot 3 and place dot 20from dot 20 and place dot 21on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Place letter 30. inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22straight down from dot 22 to line DDraft line 3'from line D and place dot 23inches up line Measure 1 y? 2 3 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 2433Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 634on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22Place letter 3528. 29.
Measure Measure
I
inches on line
B
^ inches straight down A
V
R
R
-
K
Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back.
For dotted
line.
Low Cut
Corset line
G
should
be lowered
one inch.
See
PRINCESS— FRONT. 1.
Draft line
A
2.
Draft line
B
V\ inches from the edge of the cloth. inch from the end of the cloth. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 3. fr° m line B and place dot 2according to size of neck, on line '
Yt.
A
Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X' 5. 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr° m line B and place 7. 4.
dot 48.
X
Measure
down
eye measure
the arms
line
A
fr°
m
and
B
ne
''
place dot 59.
10.
Draft from dot
X
to dot 5Place the corner of square
on dot 5 and
beginning 6 inches from dot 5Measure out line D from dot 1 1 .
bust
number and
place dot
5
%
inch
D
draft line
less
straight
out
than the table gives for
(J.
Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 12. and place dot 7Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 13. 8 on line APlace letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 81 4. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 915. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 16.
G
out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 7. 1
18.
Measure
the distance of the
Jjj
dot 11. i9-
20.
first
8 and
10 and
place
H
and place dot 12Measure one inch from dot Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place
dot 13. Measure straight up from the center of the 21. 7-
place dot 10-
from dot
dart
first
dart
to
ine
G
and
inch out and place dot 1422.
Measure
straight
up from the center of the 2nd
dart
and
[
inch out
and place dot 15-
V2
mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14I, J and K in like manner. to meet 6 inches straight down from and N & Draft lines L &
23.
Place the
24.
Draft lines
25.
M
the center of the darts.
26.
30.
Place letter
A
31.
Place the corner of square on dot
29.
Bust
36
Waist
24
Front
15
Back
16
14
A
28.
MEASURE.
of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot and draft line E to dot 6on dot Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
Measure
Plaee letter
27.
tinue line
P
on dot
and
draft line
7
P the
to dot
19edge on dot
19 and con-
the length of skirt.
Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 34. Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D35. place dot 23 Measure 36. 2 inches up line R from line D and Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 2437. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6 38. Stretch the Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 2239. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one front shoulder to meet the back. 32.
33.
Under Neck Arm's Eye
8 12
16
V
1
inch below line G-
Set dotted linei.
PRINCESS— BACK. 1.
Draft line
A
'6 inches from the edge of cloth.
2.
Draft line
B
li inch fr°
m
the
end
of
cloth.
Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on 4. line B from line A and place dot 3Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 35. 6. Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 478. Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back 9from dot 5 and place dot 63.
10.
Draft line
E
from dot
2
to dot 5-
1
Measure
1.
Place the
12.
down from dot 4 and place dot mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line
5 inches straight
%
7-
F
to dot 7-
13.
Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule)
edge on dot ^ and extend 14.
5 about
If fullness 5
is
line
F
on dot 5 the
the length of skirt.
desired in the skirt then measure in from
or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F.
dot
(See dotted
lines.)
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and 17. draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 \. 1
5.
1
6.
.
7
—
—
Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from
6
down from 19. 20.
dot 621.
Place the 10 inch
mark on dot 6 and
draft
to
meet
line
K
6 in-
ches u P22. 2 3-
24-
G
line
25-
Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14. Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and
draft
the length of skirt.
Hold
the end of tape line
on dot 5 and
draft line
H.
SIDE BODY. Use
the edge of cloth for line GDraft line Yz inch from the end of cloth.
H
Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 back— -and then measure that distance down line G from
to line
3.
line
H
D
—
in the
an d place
dot 2-
D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2Measure inches out line D from dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 an d place dot 57. 8. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then 4-
Draft line
H
5-
measure that distance from dot 3 to 9.
V
Place letter
line
B
and place dot 6-
on dot 6 the edge of curve on
line
D
one inch out
A
from dot 3 and draft line to letter J on the curve. 10. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line AMeasure one inch out from 6 and place dot 71 1 .
I
2.
13. 1
1
4. 5.
16. 17. 18. line
E
19.
20. 21. line
F
22.
B
from dot 5 to dot 7)/ 2 inches down line B fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8Measure 2 inch out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 9Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10Draft line
Measure
1
y
Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 10Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend the length of skirt.
Measure Measure
1
y
5
inches straight
2
3 and place dot 11. down from dot \\ and place dot 12on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft
inches in from dot
Place the corner of square the length of skirt.
Hold
end of tape
the
line
on dot \\ and
draft line J.
UNDER ARM FORM— BACK. Use
2.
the edge of cloth for line GDraft line V? inch from the end of cloth.
3.
Measure
1
H
the distance
then measure that distance
between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and line G fr° m line H and place dot X.
down
D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot XMeasure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line DMeasure on line D inch more than the table gives for the width 6. of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H7. 8. Measure 3<£ inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than the table gives for the width of under 9. arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6. 4.
Draft line
5.
%
y
10. 1
I.
A
Draft line from dot 2 to dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot
6 and measure
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 71 2. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 713. H- Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9'5Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 916. Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the i7edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt. Measure 1 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 1018. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 19.
y
A
on dot 3 and
20.
Place letter
21.
Place the corner of square on dot
tinue line 2 2.
3 and
F
draft line
10
F
to dot
the
H.
edge on
dot \\ and con-
the length of skirt.
Hold
the end
draft line J.
of tape
line
on
line
D
half
way between
dots
2 and
VIENNA WAIST. Draft line
A
I
Draft line
B
>
ncn fr°m the edge of goods. inches from the end of goods.
'2 2
'
Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc 2 from line B on line A and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3Measure down line A * rom line B 3/i of arm's eye measure and place dot 4 Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5Place the corner ot square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5-
Measure out
line
D
from dot 5 the distance given
in the table for bust
num-
ber and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 an d place dot Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8-
H
Place letter
Measure Measure Measure
P
to dot 7-
2 an d place new dot 2from dot 5 and place new dot 5-
«
inch in
'j the distance
Place letter Place letter
1
I
dart out from dot
draft to
new
8 an d
place
new
dot 8-
dot 5-
draft to dot 4-
to
new
dot 8-
draft to
A
/
new
dart and place
Measure
first
meet line 5 inches below dot 8from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l 2 the width of the
in
fr°
A
Place letter
dot 7-
down from 6 and
inches straight
j
E
Draft line
of the
on n ew dot 2 an d (J on new dot 5 an d H on dot 4 and draft H on new dot 8 an d
H
Place letter
first
an d draft line
y£ inch out from dot
Place letter
Measure
8
on dot
7-
m
on
dot
new
6
place dot 9-
to 9-
dot
7 an d
draft to dot 9-
Measure 6 l/2 inches out line B from dot 3 an d place dot 20Measure 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure 2 inches up line R from line D an d place dot 23Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24inch in from dot Place letter D on dot 24 an d draft line S to meet line B 1
'
1
1
s
K ° n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q. Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26Measure \£ inch out line B fr° m line A and place dot 27Place the corner of square on dot 27, tne edge on dot 26 ar| d draft line f? out about 20 inches. Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T. Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28Place the corner of square on dot 28, the edge on line T and draft line \J out 10 inches. inch less than the combined width of cenMeasure out line U from dot 28 ter-back side body and under arm forms and place dot 29Place the corner of square on dot 22, the long arm parallel with line X and Place letter
'
place dot
MEASURE. Bust
Waist Front
.
Back Under arm .
Neck Arm's Eye
30
the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure.
Arm's eye measure 3° ?4 >5
16 8 12 16
SEAMLESS WAIST.
Fifty
($50 00) dollars Rewa.d
will be
paid for the conviction of any one infringing on
any
of
onr copyrights.
0)
Measure the width of
dart (as given in
table) from
the
10 and
dot
place
dot |1.
Measure
straight
Draft lines
H
Place letter
C
up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on
and I the same as other on dot 2 and draft line
line
Q.
darts.
C
to dot 3-
Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21, and draft "
inch
less
line
Q
j4
than the proportionate shoulder measure.
R
Draft line
Measure Measure
i i
Place letter
Place letter
down from
the end of line Q to line Dfrom line D an d place dot 23. inch straight in from dot 23 aI>d place dot 24. C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. straight
inch up line
R
K
SAILOR BLOUSE For Ladies or Children.
FRONT. Draft a plain front and add 4 inches line E to dot 6.
Omit
darts
Draft
the
from dot ^ and
to the waist line
and cut 6 inches below the waist
draft
line.
BACK. draft line
H
back and add
Berlin to dot
2 ]4 inches to the waist line
Cut 6 inches below
14-
8
from dot
and
the waist line.
FOR VERY FULL FORM. This diagram shows the changes necessary
for
a
very
full
bust and
narrow
back.
The
show
dotted lines
ordinary drafting,
the
heavy
the
lines
showing the
changes
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. Bust
42
Waist
z5
Front
17
Back
-
.
-
17
Under Arm
9
Height of Shoulder Width of Back
6
Neck Arm's Eye
'5 '9
For a regular form the width of the back should be This width of back is 6 inches, indicating that the back
j/(,
of the bust measure.
a 36 bust meas36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back. Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42 2 Take /i of 6, which (the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. would be 4, and add to the regular measure 42— -which would make 46. Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 ° n line A and 1 inch straight out and place new dot 2. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^£
Take
ure.
is
for
a
—
[See diagram.]
inches above dot 3-
dot 4.
mark on dot line
A
X
about
H
on dot
Place
X
and an d continue the curved
Plate letter
5
inches
down.
dot
draft to line
/ x
2
[See diagram.]
X Y
new
from
inch straight in
dot 2.
Place the
5
inch
inch out from dot 8, meeting Take alj^ inch dart in the
[See diagram.] In locating the darts measure from the 5. curved line in, locating dot 10. Draft the darts so that the point meets one lining
at
dot
inch above line G. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder
measure and baste a bastings
inch
after
the
^
inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the
shoulder
is
stitched.
[See
diagram.]
Also
baste
a
I
dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching.
.
FRENCH SLEEVE. A
Draft lines
2
Measure
/
Measure
I
l
and
2 the
V\ inch from the end and edge of goods. line B from line and place dot 2.
B
A
hand measure out
y, inches on line
A
from line
B
and place dot 3-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line inches less than the hand measure.
C
°ut
^
T
Measure y, inch more than the measure from elbow B and place dot 4.
on
to wrist
line
A
fro'" 1
line
Measure straight out
from dot 4 and place dot 5.
J^ inches straight out
I
Measure
than the measure around the arm below the elbow-
inches less
2
from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Place letter
on dot 5 and
Q,
H
Measure
inches from dot 7 on
F
Draft line
on dot 5 and
E
draft line li
A
ne
Measure
inch
Measure line
F
fr°
inch
I
m
Measure
1
Measure
3^
more than
from dot less
8 and
dot
9 and
less
than
>
_,
the measure around
the measure around
\i
place dot
the
arm below the
the
10
than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on place dot \\.
inch straight
down from down
inches straight
point of curve on line
Place the
B.
F
to dot 7.
and place dot 8-
from dot 8-
straight out
Measure out line F fr° m dot 8 • inch arm below the shoulder and place dot 9shoulder on line
to dot 3.
than the measure from shoulder to elbow
less
Place letter 5
D
draft line
Measure up line A 4's inches from dot 4 and place dot 7-
10 and
dot
from dot
F
H
place dot 12.
and place dot 13.
inch in from dot
1
9 and
Q
to
draft line
H
draft line
dot 7-
X
Place the to dot
point of curve on line
F
inch out from dot
•
9 and
12.
F
Place letter
Draft line
Measure
l
on dot 12 and
draft line \ to dot 13.
inches below dot 6.
J
from dot 13 extending
2
inch straight in from the end of line
Place the point of curve on dot
R
Place letter
2
6 and
on dot 14 and continue
Allow seams on
lines
!
2
draft line line
K
t0
Cut on
D, E, J and R\
J
K [
and place dot 14. t0 dot
14
he end of line
lines
C, 6,
H
(J-
and
I.
UNDER PART. A and B lA inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2Measure y inches on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 3Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C 2 inch more than ^i of hand measure from dot 3Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from line B and place dot 4Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5the measure around the arm below the elbow Measure 2 inch more than Draft lines
<ot«
1
'
m\
I
1
-
y
y
from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft
straight
.
Around Hand
.
y
y
oo
SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow
line
D
to dot 3-
Measure \ l {, inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \ on line A and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure I \ 2 inches on line A h" om dot 7 and place dot 8the measure around the arm below the shoulder inch more than Measure out from dot 8 and place dot 9"lace letter ° n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9-
K
i
+
10 I
I
10 8
4
'
G
Draft line
fr°
m
dot
9
to dot 6-
G on dot 6 and Allow seams on lines D, E, Place letter
H
draft line
G
end ot line (JCut on lines C and f.
to the
H
and
Sti the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. told the top over aoout 3 table, the on smooth sleeve the Lay Jotted lines). to the elbow about 2 inches. inches from the elbow up and from the hand up up about 2 inches in space taking elbow, the at together bring the fullness together and baste up and come See that dots 5 a gathering thread.
This sleeve
gathered
is
at
Now
and run in down from dot 5-
THE PRATT SLEEVE. A
Draft lines
Measure out Measure up
B H inch from the ed g e and end of cloth B from line A ', the hand measure and place inches and place dot 3. A from line B '
and line
line
}
from dot 2 from Measure up line u rist and place dot 4-
C
Draft line
to dot 3-
A
Measure Measure
dot 2.
'
line
B
4 and
2 inches straight out from dot
5
out from dot
straight
more than
inch
'.'
1
%
elbow
the measure from
place dot 5. more than
inches
>
3
ot the
elbow and place dot 6around the arm below dot 3. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to 1 inches less than the measure Measure up line A from dot
to
measure
the
4—
elbow and place dot 7. Place etter H on dot 5 and
to
Measure up Draft line
E to dot 7. inches and P lace dot
draft line
A from dot 7—5 straight out from dot 8.
%
line
F
""°
m
sh °U ' der
-'
8
-
,
arm inch less than >, the measure around Measure out line F from dot 8 below shoulder and place dot 9. less than the measure around arm Measure out line F from dot 8 % inches below shoulder and place dot 10. .«.,-., dot 10 and place dot \\ Measure 3 inches straight down from inches in from dot 9 and draft line point of the curve on line F * Place the >
,
,
I
in
G Sate lineH
the
to dot
11.
Place letter
Place letter
Allow
for
point of the curve on line
X H A
* inches out
F
from dot 9 and
draft
\
.
on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b. to dot 2 on dot 6 and draft line
K
seams on
lines
D, E, J and
K
Cut on
lines
C,
G
and
fl
UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. inch from the edge and end of cloth A and B hand measure and place dot 2. Measure out line B from line A V2 the and place dot 3. inches line from % B Measure up line A dot 2 and draft the square on dot 3, the edge on
%
Draft lines
•
line
C
of hand measure from dot 3. . inch more than the measure from elbow from line B
to
Place the corner of
1 ,
inch
less
than
"Measure up
.
J
line
A
%
and place dot 4. „ _ , and place dot 5. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 the measure around arm less than Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch below elbow and place dot 6. line D to dot 3 Place letter G on dot 5 and draft inches less than the measure from shoulder Measure up line A from dot 4-4 % to elbow and place dot 7. line E to dot 7. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft dot 8dot from 7 ^2 inches and place Measure up line A less than V, the measure around urn Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch below shoulder and place dot 9. draft line F to dot g. Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line G '° d °t 9. and on dot 6 Place letter line H to the end of inch above dot 6 and draft on line Q letter wrist
,
.
,
,
%
W A
Place
SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder
to
l
Elbow
10
Elbo(V to Wrist
Around Arm Around Arm Around Hand
*
below Shoulder below Elbow -
'
'
°
"aL
for
seams on
,
lines
D) E,
G
and
H
inch to the
For Cloak or Coat.-Add measure. una y2 inch to the hand
-
Cut on
first
lines
C and F.
arm and second measure, .round
is
«N
ca
SLEEVE—TOP.
CHILD'S A
Draft lines
and
inch from edge and end of cloth
B %
the hand measure on l.ne B horn Measure d Pla (according Me asureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 dot place 3. sleeve) on line A fr° m line B and
%
inch more than
%
A
line
and of
to length
TABLE. 13-14 ,5-16 17-n 19-20
Length of Sleeve
lU
*%
Dot 3 Dot 5
»#
4
3
VA *X
Dot? 1'
DoTl2~ from dot 2
C
Draft line
#
^
to dot 3.
from elbow to wrist on line A Measure 1 inch more than the measure dot place 4line R and u r under dot 5 (according to length ot Measure the distance given in the table straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. sleeve around the arm below the elbow Measure \ inches more than * the measure dot ,ace and 6straight from dot 5 P line D to dot 3. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft m the to elbow (Jess the distance given shoulder from distance Measure the dot place and 7. from dot 4 table under dot 7) on line A and place dot 8. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 line E to dot 5. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and inch more than the table gives tor Measure ,.
1
)
1
place dot 9. Draft line
Measure
straight out
F .
%
inches
from dot 9.
more than ]/2
the measure around the
"
KIT? VZL^lrt^t ^ £l£i *- » *• **> F 1« W^of
arm below
—*
Measure
1
the curve on line
G
.
_
to dot 8-
Place letter
Draft line I Place letter
c u„,,u Pr arm belou shoulder
the shoulder on line
straight
12
inch in from dot ,
F
down from
10 and
from dot
draft line
<n
on dot 10 and draft line H to dot \i. from dot 12 to dot 6. dot 2. G on dot 6 and draft line J to
T
Allow seams on
lines
D, E,
I
and J.
Cut on
lines
C,
G
and H.
UNDER PART. Draft lines
edge and end of goods. and V? inch from around the hand on line inch more than «4 the measure
A
%
Measure line A and place dot Length of Sleeve
B
Dot 6
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS. Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow Around Hand
TABLE.
.
13
14
5
16
7
^
9% 7 J4
8 - -
8 7
y2
18I19 zc
1*
H
*%
under do, 2 (according Measure the distance given in the table dot 2. place and line from B leeve) on line A
•
horn
1.
i)<6
Dot 2 Dot 4
B
'X 3^ to length
of
— ——
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge l less than 2 the hand measure.
^
Measure
B
line
on dot 1
and
draft line
Q
y2
/
inch
inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line
A
from
an d place dot 3.
Measure
the distance given in the table under dot
3 and
sleeve) straight from dot
4
(according to length of
place dot 4-
Measure y, the measure around the arm below the elbow 4 and place dot 5.
straight
out
from
dot
draft line
D
Measure the distance from shoulder
to
4 and
Place letter JJ on dot
table
under dot 6 (according
to dot 2.
elbow
the distance given in the
less
of arm) on
to length
line
A
from dot
3 and
place
dot 6. Place letter JJ on dot
6 and
draft
E
line
to dot 4-
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the upper part of sleeve and then measure that distance on line A from dot 3 and place dot 7-
y
Measure 2 the measure around 7 and place dot 8. Place letter
Draft line
K
G
Place letter
on dot 6 and
from dot 8
M on
Allow seams on
dot
lines
arm below shoulder
the
F
draft line
straight out
from dot
to dot 8-
to dot 5-
5 and D. E,
draft line
G
H
and H-
to the
end of
Cut on
lines
line
(J-
C and
F.
SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE. Draft line
A
v
i
inch from edge of goods.
A
Draft line B straight out from line around the arm below the shoulder.
6 inches
more than
the measure
Place dot 2 in the centre of line B.
Measure straight out from dot 2 Vi inch less than yl of hand measure and place dot 3. Measure straight in from dot 2 % inch less than of hand measure
^
and place dot 4. Measure up line sleeve and place dot
A
from
line
C from dot 4
Draft line
D
straight out
E
from the end of
Measure down
l
l /i
inches less than the length of
5.
Draft line
Draft line
B
line
to dot 5.
from dot 5 the same length as line
C from dot 5
D
—
line B.
to dot 3-
inches less than the measure from
5
shoulder to elbow, and place dot 6-
Measure SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow
14
Elbow
10
to Wrist
Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow Around Hand
straight out
Measure down line measure from shoulder
-
11
10 8
Measure
straight in
from dot 6 one inch and place dot from the end of line D to elbow and place dot 8.
E
5
7-
inches
from dot 8 one inch and place dot
less
thaD the
9.
R on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 5. Place letter U on dot 7 and extend line F to dot 4. Reverse the curve and draft line G from the end of line D to dots 9 and 3. Measure in from the end of line D i of the measure around the arm below shoulder and place dot 10. Measure straight up from dot 10 }{ the measure around arm below shoulder and place dot H. Place letter
'
l
T on the end of line D and draft line H to dot 11. Measuie out line D from dot % inch more than y& the distance between dots 5 and 10 and place dot 12. Hold end of tape line on dot 12 and draft a curved line from dot 11 Place letter
5—
to dot 5.
CLOAK NO. Draft
line
A
6}4 inches from
the edge of goods.
inches from the end of goods. table
unde- dot 2 on
line
A
Measure
from
line
B
MEASURE. Bust.
36
Waist Front
24 14 16
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
.
8
12 16
the
Draft line
distance given
and piace dot 2-
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
i
in
B
the
I
Vz
neck
CLOAK NO. Draft line
A
3 inches
from the edge of goods.
from the end of goods. fr° line dot 2 on l' n e
A
m
B
Measure the distance given and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
2. x inches B ' /l neck table under
Draft line in the
Up
Measure line
D
inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust
I
number on
from dot 5 and place dot 9.
Measure
inch ess than the length of under arm straight
\2
l
down from
dot
6
and place dot 7. Measure 2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H °n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
V
Measure
than the width of the
'4 inch less
dart in from dot
first
7 on
line
p and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm measure and place new dot 6. Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot an d draft line Q out
X
inches from dot 4. Measure I- 10 of the waist measure on line
beginning
3 inches,
Add dot
'
\-2
3
F
fr°
m
dot
8 and
place dot 10.
inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from
10 and
place dot
H.
between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y2 G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17. Measure Jj£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round
Measure
distance
the
inch, then measure that distance on line
edge).
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. Measure 2 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A ° n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22.
y
Draft line
Measure Measure
No.
5.
1
R straight down from dot V2 inches up line R from
22
to
line
D
l'
Q
-'4
inch
ne D.
and place dot 23.
Place letter
23 and place dot 24. of curve on line D and on edge dot the 24, C
Place letter
R
inch straight in from dot
1
draft line
S
to dot
6.
Measure
on dot
24 and
2 inches straight in
Draft line
V
Place letter
extend line S to dot 22. from the end of line B and place dot 27.
from dot 26 to dot 27. on dot 27 and draft line
P
}jf to
meet the edge of goods
7 inches
down.
CLOAK NO. Draft line
A B
3
5.
inches from the edge of cloth.
l /2 inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot
Draft line
'
dot 2.
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
2 °n
line
A
and place
REINACH'S LIST OF
IMPORTED JOURNALS
FOR DRESSMAKING Price per Price per Year 6 months
LA
MODK ARTISTIQUE With Albums
The same
00
2 4- 00
20.00
12.00
-IS-
without
Albums
LE LUXE
24.00
WIENER CHIC COSTUME ELEGANT, COSTUME ELEGANT, LE GOUT PARISIEN
CHIC PARISIEN,
I.
CHIC PARISIEN,
II.
I.
II.
CLOAK BACK. Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2NECK TABLE.
Š
Dot 2
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
-
36 22
14 16 8
12 16
line
A
SAILOR COLLAR. A
i
'
Draft line
B
5
inches from the end of goods.
Measure the line B and Measure the from line A and
2
given in
distance
place dot 2. distance given
from
S
ncn from the edge of goods.
Draft line
in
the
front
neck table under dot 2 on
line
A
the
front
neck table under dot 3 on
line
B
place dot 3. 2 inches up from line BExtend line Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line
A
4
A A
and place dot 4. and lines of junction B. the edge on dot the on square of corner Place the and draft line C out 6}4 inches. dot 3, extending to hue G. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through and draft line E out +*4 inches Place the edge of square even with line C
from the end of
Measure
line (J.
3 inches
F
Draft line
5
F
Place letter
down
line
A
2 and
from dot
place dot 5.
inches straight out from dot 5. ot line on curve, 1 l 2 inches straight up from the end
/
F
and
end of line E. draft line G from the end of line F to the will be no seam. Place line C on the fold of goods and there yoke. round or square nice very a makes This collar
MEDICI COLLAR. and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods. dot 2. Measure ]/2 the neck measure on line A from line B and place Measure 4 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3.
A
Draft lines
7
2^
*~
Measure 4 inches on Place letter F on dot
B
line
from dot
3 and
place dot 4.
and draft line C to dot 3. from line B and place dot 5. measure on' line neck of the Measure ]ÂŁ, Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6dot 3. Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to line A and place dot 7. on dot from down 2 inches Measure 1
4
A
^
3 inches straight out
Measure Place
the
Place the
from dot ^ and place dot 8. 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round
point of curve on dot
point of curve on dot
X
continue line
8 and
E
to dot
4.
COAT COLLAR. A
Draft lines
Measure
and
inch
1
B
^
inch from the edge and end of goods.
more than }4 of neck measure on
line
A
from
line
B
and
place dot 2.
Measure
B
inches on line
3
from
line
A
and place dot 3.
to dot 2. Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C dot 4. Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. place and dot from out 4 straight Measure 2 inches
D
Draft line
Measure Measure
HZ
from dot 2
to dot 5.
from dot 3 and place dot 6
3 */i
inches out line
B
%
inches straight
down from
2
Place letter
M
Place letter
N on
on dot 5 and draft line dot
7 and
draft line
dot
6 and
place dot 7-
E to dot 7F to dot 3.
STANDING COLLAR. A inch more than y2 the neck measure. line ADraft line B lH inches straight out from place dot Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and Draft line
1
2.
inches straight out from the end of line Aand place dot 3. Measure 2 inches out line C from line end of line the to line of end the from C Draft line from line C and place dot 4. inch on line 1
Draft line
C
3
A
3
A
B
D
Measure
D
E from dot 3 to dot 4. F on dot 4 and draft line F letter F on dot 3 and draft line G
Draft line
Place letter Place
These
collars are drafted
on the right
to dot
2
to the junction ot lines
bias of the goods.
A
and
B
COAT NO.
6.
BACK. A and B -'4 inch from the edges and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2. i.
Draft lines
2.
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
line
A
.
.
UNDER ARM. Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2. from as given in the table Measure the width of the under arm dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and 3. then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 4. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and 5. 1
—
—
2.
place dot 6. 6. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 7. 8. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. 910. Measure 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 1 1. I z. Place the < ., mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. '3Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I. 14. Place the l 2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I I
I
/
FRONT. A 4
inches from the edge of cloth.
1.
Draft line
2.
Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth. of neck measure inch less than X Measure
A
3.
B and place dot 2. Measure \4 inch 4. line
A and
than
less
y^
on
line
of the neck measure on
A from line
line
B from
place dot 3.
2 and
dot 3.
5.
Place letter C on dot
6.
Measure
3/£
of arm's eye measure on
Measure
y2
the arm's eye measure on line
draft line
C
to
line
A from
line
B and place
A from
line
B and place
dot 4. 7-
dot 5. Place the corner
8.
of square on dot
5 and
draft
line
D
straight out
beginning 6 inches from dot 5.
Measure the distance of the Bust number on
9.
line
D from
dot 5 and
place dot 6.
Measure the length
10.
ot
under arm
straight
down from
dot
6 and
)/*
inch in and place dot 7. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. and draft line F to dot 8. curve up Place letter A on dot 7 Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place
I I. 1
2.
14.
dot
—
—
'3-
10.
15.
Measure
10 and place dot
inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot
\-i
1.
1
Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then 1 6. measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the x 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 17. Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II. 18. Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I. 19. Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. 20.
/
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
36 24 75 16
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye .
.
8 i
z
16
21.
Measure
22.
Place the
A
24. 2 j.
line
A
26. 27. 28.
5
down from
dot 18 and place dot 19.
V2
Place letter
23line
inches straight
5
mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. l inch out from dot 2 and draft G on line C /y
to
meet
inches above dot 8.
Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2. * rorn dot Place the corner of square j£ ' nc ^
m 2 and draft to meet down. Measure 6 V2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q
2 inches
yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line 29.
Q
to l'ne D.
Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23. Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 3«on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter 32Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q. 33The Front can be finished any style desired. See dotted lines. For long shoulder extend line Q x 2 inch. 30.
/
CLOAK NO. 7â&#x20AC;&#x201D; BACK. A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line and place dot 2' Draft lines
B
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
A
from
line
CLOAK NO. 7— FRONT.
B
A B
4 inches from the edge of cloth. 1 ' /t. inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on and place dot 2Draft line
Draft line
NECK TABLE Dot 2
B
3
line
A
fr°
m me '
3
B
ETON BACK. Draft linesA and
B
B
of cloth. Y\ inch from the edge and end in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine
Measure the distance given and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
36
-
-
24 15
...
-._..-...
'6
8 12 '
°
A
fr°
m
line
.
y
Measure
inch
2
less
than under arm length straight
down from
R and
dot
place dot 7-
Measure y, inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot XMeasure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place
%
dot 9Place letter
A
on dot 9 and
draft line
curve.
E
X
to dot
beginning
at the
point of r
Place the corner of square on dot
9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the arm and place new dot 6Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D Place the corner of square on dot and draft line G out 3 4, the edge on dot
length ot under
X
inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one tenth of the waist measure
on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line h-om dot 10 and place dot H.
Add
F
%
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U, inch then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the jÂŁ mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line from dot 1 to dot I 1 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15. Measure inch toward line from dot 15 and place dot 16. Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16. Draft line parallel with line J. Measure inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25 Measure inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26Draft lines T and to meet 4 inches below dot 2Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line to dot (use the round
H
^
A
K
% %
U
edge
C
3
v
)
Measure by, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21 Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
Q
than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line straight down from dot to line
less
R
22
Rand place dot 23inch straight in 1 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft
Measure Measure
1
y
dot 6. Place letter
Place
K
% 2 y
Measure Measure
3
2
letter
dot 27Draft line
Yl inch
Q
inches on line
R
from from dot
line
D
line
on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27. inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28 on dot 27 and draft line to dot beginning
U
28,
I
S
to
new
inch above
V
from dot 26 to the end of line VFinish as desired below the waist line.
For Bolero Jacket follow dotted
lines.
GIRL'S CLOAK
B
Draft line
A 2%
Draft line
R
inches from the edge of cloth.
inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot and place dot 21
2 on
line
A
from hne
NECK TABLE. Dot 2 Neck Size
l
l
i
10
Dot 3
H
Measure
A
H '* *A 2 % \*U A 1% 2 3/
^A
the distance given in the neck table under dot
and place dot 3Place the point ot curve on dot
edge).
t
2 and
draft line
C
to
13
A )% line R from l
3
3 on dot
\i
3
line
Tuse the round
L
â&#x20AC;˘
.
'
y
Measure 2 inch more than B and place dot 5-
^
the
arm
eye measure
s
down
line
A
from
line
D
Draft line
straight out,
beginning 4 inches from dot 5-
number on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot (J. Measure 2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 an d place dot 8Measure
inch more than the table gives for bust
1
y
p
Draft line
Measure
from dot
and place dot
to dot 7-
8 on
'>
ne
F
•)•
mark on dot 9 and
Place the \2
Measure Measure
8
inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot
I
y2
draft line
inches out from dot
E
t0 dot 8.
9 and
place dot 16. 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17to dot 17Place the 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line 1
V
H
Measure 6 A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3, tne e dge of curve on dot 21, and draft inch
less
line
Q
^2
than the proportionate shoulder measure.
R
down from
end of line Q to line Di D and place dot 231 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6Place letter on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. Measure I inch in on line B fr° m line A and place dot 25Place the point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line extending inch above dot 25Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge goods 3 y, inches down. Draft line
Measure Measure
I
straight
inch up line
R
from
the
line
K
T
^
of
BACK. Draft lines
A
and
B
•
inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measu-e the distance given
in the table
under dot
and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
8
MEASURE. Bust.. Waist Front
Years.
28
25
.
9^2
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
1 1
5 .
.
10 13
y2 i/j"
2 down
line
A
fr°
m
''
ne
B
CHILD'S
COATâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; BACK.
A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Draft lines
Measure
y2
inch
less
B from
than j^ of neck measure on line
line
A and
place dot 3.
on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place Place the point of curve
B
dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4. Measure one inch on line D from dot
JO
Measure
%
Draft line E from dot Place letter
4 and
2
place dot 5.
5 and place dot
of waist measure from dot
6.
to dot 5.
N on dot 5 and
draft line F to
meet
line
A
5
%
inches below
dot 4.
Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot l of arms eye measure straight down from dot Measure /Âą
inch
less
line
H
%
I.
I
I
I
and place
dot 12.
Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. and draft line J to dot 13. Place letter D on dot Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15. Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F. 1
1
I
JO
52
.^
[2
§
J*
I
15.
UNDER ARM. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2. Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13
in
the back and then meas-
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
MEASURE,
6
YRS.
Measure
Bust
26
Waist
24
Front
8^
Back
11
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
4^ 10 12
the distance
between dots 2 and 3
straight
out
from dot 4 and
place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7.
Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3.
Place letter Place
2.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Measure 51^
inches straight
down
from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9. Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II. Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II.
II.
.
CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT. A
Draft line
3
Draft line B
1
J^ inches from the edge of goods. inch from the end of goods. '
2
Measure y£ of the neck measure down line A from Measure 2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on *
line
B and place dot
line
B from
line
2.
A and
place dot 3.
B on dot 3 and
Place letter •
Measure
'; ot the
arm's
draft line C to dot 2. eye measure on line A
from
B and place
line
dot 4.
Measure the length
ot the
under arm measure
down
line
A from dot 4 and
place dot 5.
Draft line F straight out from dot 5.
D
Draft line
straight out beginning 4 inches
from
line dot 4.
Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure one inch more than y± of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and place dot 7.
Place letter G on dot
Measure Measure
2^ 5
6 and draft line E to dot 7. inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8.
V? inches straight
down from
Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line
Hold end
of tape line
on dot 3 and
G
dot
8 and
place dot 9.
to dot 9.
draft line
dot 9 to the edge of
H from
goods.
Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot and draft 1
I
I
inch
less
Draft line R straight
down from
Measure y± inch up
line
Measure dot
Bust
26
Waist Front
24 .
8 i/ A
Back
11
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
10
424 12
I
line
Q
V±
3
the end of line Q to line D. R from line D and place dot 12. point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6. K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q. inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place
2
%
Place letter
6 YRS.
,
than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Place the
MEASURE
I
13.
Measure
inches straight in from dot
4 and
place dot 14.
Draft from dot 2 to dot 13. Place letter
Q on dot 13 and
draft to dot
Place letter
R on dot 14 and
draft to
of goods.
14.
the junction
ot
line
G and the edge
UNDER ARM. arm of square on
Place the long
12 and
draft line
N
Measure
3 inches
Measure
3
straight
from dot 12 on
inches from dot
Place letter
Q
line
A
(in the back) the short
N
and place dot 2-
arm on
6 on
on dot 2 and
Draft from the end of line
line
line
D
A
draft line
A
to the
and place dot 3extending, 3^ 'nch below dot 3-
end of
line
K
in the back.
Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of center-back, and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure the width of under arm form, line
N
doi
from dot 12-
as given in the table,
side
bodv
from dot 2 on
and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 5, and measure up from '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6-
dot 4Âť
M on
Place letter Place the
X
Measure
yi
Measure
5
dot
6 and
line
B
to dot 4-
on dot 2 and draft inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7-
l
inches straight
Place letter
draft
point of the curve
R
on dot
4
down from
and
draft line
line
C
to dot 6-
dot 7 and -place dot 8-
E
to dot 8-
CAPES Draft line Draft line
A B
'
5
inch from the edge of cloth.
inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given
B
in the
neck table under dot 2 on
and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
line
A
from
line
—
CIRCULAR CAPE The goods
neck measure and length are
wide
are
measure
up
Place dot
enough
the
3
the measures that are necessary.
without
cut
to
length
the
fold
all
and
line
dot
in
the length that
3
Allow
for
of the fold,
seam
line,
you wish the cape and
wide enough
the goods are not in the place
Stick a pjn through
an d draft a curved line beginning
Without removing the pin or tape
the goods
then
this
will
make
down
measure draft a
at
dot
the fold of
curved
It
line.
without a seam then use the selvedge
cut
to
the
and
you wish the cape and place dot 2-
that
°f tne neck measure from dot 2-
l
/i
the end of the tape
2-
seam
a
It
the goods
fold
a
seam
in the
center of the back
only.
in cutting out.
CAPUCHIN HOOD. Draft lines
A
and
B
'2
inch from edge and end of cloth.
A
from
line
B
Measure j£ inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from and place dot 3Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4-
line
A
line
D
Measure
inch less than
l/±
and place dot
of
'-C
neck measure on
line
2-
Measure |6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5Place letter
A
on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7-
Measure
14.1-2
Measure
1
Measure
7
inches on line
Measure 8 inches Place letter to the yi
K
^
Place letter
B
6-
from dot 7 and place dot 8-
down from dot 8 and
7, the
place dot 9-
edge of curve on dot 9 and draft
the curve.
inch straight in from the end of line
G G
Place letter
straight
on dot
mark on
Measure
5-
D and
place dot 10
on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up. on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10-
RED RIDING HOOD. A
Draft lines
Measure line
B
3^
and B inch
and place dot
%
less
inch from edge and end of goods.
%
than
the
neck measure on
line
A
and from
2-
Measure
l neck measure on line B from line A and place dot /i. the Measure io 1^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5-
Measure
l/%
inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place the
point of curve on dot 6 and draft line
Place letter
A
Measure
on dot 6 and l inches on line />
C
to d6t 2.
draft to dot 3-
5 B from dot 3 and place dot T. Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot
Place the
and continue Place letter
8-
H
on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter
3-
8 inch line
H
D
mark (on the curve) on dot to the
X
8, the
point of the curve.
on the end of
line
D
and
draft to dot 4-
9-
edge on dot 10
DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. FRONT. Use the
fold of
Measure
goods
%
B
Draft line
for line
A-
inch from the en d of goods out 15 inches.
the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2. ]/ x inches down and 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom " ne
1
A
Measure place dot 3-
on dot 2 and
F
Place letter
Measure down the
fold
draft line
C
to dot 3-
the length of skirt measure and
2
of goods from dot
place dot 4-
D
Draft line
Measure 4 inches on Measure
line
8 inches straight
about
I
5
inches.
down from
dot
5 and
place dot 6draft line
E
corner of square on dot 8» the edge on dot 9. and draft line
G
inch more than the
l
B
4
from dot 3 and place dot 5-
corner of square
Place the
.own
from dot
straight out
on dot 3» the
e dge
on dot 6» and
skirt length.
Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. Measure 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9)
Place
the
down 14
inches and place dot 10-
Measure
4
l
5
1
inches on line
E
fr°
point of curve on dot
Place the
Measure
inches
2
m
dot 3» and place dot H. to dot draft line
H
10 and
more than j4 of
skirt
H.
length on line E, from dot
H,
and
place dot 12-
end of tape line 011 dot 3 line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot Hold the end of tape line on the curved line from dot 12 to meet line D
Hold
the
and
draft a
curved line from the end of
4junction of lines
A
and
and
B
draft a
9 inches from dot 4-
BACK. _jSi
1
Use
the fold of goods for line A'2 inch from the end of goods.
B
Draft line
Measure Measure
on line A» rrom line B. and place dot 2more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2, and
inches 3 $4
inch
1
place
dot 3.
Draft line C» out from dot 3, about I 5 inches. inches less than J^ of waist measure, on line B from line A. Measure and place dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B, from line A. and place dot 51 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure z /,
$%
on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6 on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 4. and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 8. and draft
1
Place letter
V
Place letter
T
inch more
line
F down
than the skirt length.
%
inches on line F, from dot 4, and place dot 9. Measure 1 5 Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 62 Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge on dot 9> and draft line H dot from length 9inches more than }4 the skirt Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4- inches from dot 3. r rom the end Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line
K
of line
H
to
meet
line J.
"
*"
.
FLARE SKIRT NO. Use
507 FRONT.
the told of goods for line A.
Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods.
Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4.
D 20 inches straight out from dot 4. Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure '; inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E to line D. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7. Measure 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8. Measure }£ inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and Draft line
I
1
place dot 9.
Measure \£ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot
9.
l4 inch allowed for seam.
FIRST GORE. Use
the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods. inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure
W
1
^
of the waist measure on line B from Measure y? inches more than line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure _. inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5. Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line 1
B and place dot 6.
D
Draft line
Measure
1
straight out
'_,
from dot
inches on line
6.
D from
dot
6 and place dot
7.
Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5.
Measure 9 inches up
line
Place letter S on dot
8 and
••_,
inch in and place dot 8.
W
on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up. from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10. 1 \i and place dot 8 inches straight down from dot and draft Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot , Place letter
.
E from dot 7 and draft to dot 6.
Measure Measure Measure
2 inches out
1
I
I
I
I
line
F
to line D.
H on
Place letter
Hold
dot 3 and draft to dot II.
the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot
7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F. Measure 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch 1
straight
place dot 12.
Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12. Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up.
out and
.
.
SECOND GORE. Use
the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods. Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2.
Measure \i inches less than yÂą of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B. Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and I
D Measure
straight out.
draft line
2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4. Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4. Measure 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and z ncn n an d place dot 5.
y
1
Measure
'
inch up line
2
A from
D and
line
'
>
place dot 6.
Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6. Place letter
W
Place letter
U on
on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5. dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7. Measure l 2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 7, the edge on dot 9, and draft line F I
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
771 v> Worn
4-
*T" 3
2^
/
more than
inches
the skirt length.
1 inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10. /Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4. Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and
Measure
place dot
I
t,
I
W
and draft to dot 10. and draft to meet line F R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9.
Place letter
on dot
Place letter S on dot Place 4etter
I
I
I
I
1 1
inches up.
BACK. Use
the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods.
Measure 1-10 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Measure Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and
%
place dot 4.
D
Draft line
1
2 inches straight out
Measure 4 inches less than J^ the inch straight in and place dot 5. Draft from dot 5 to dot 4. Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft
from dot 4. skirt
to
A from dot 4 and |^
length up line
meet
line
A
1 1
%
up
inches
trom
dot 5.
B from dot 3 and place dot 6. dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft inches more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of Measure Measure
meet
4'/, inches
on
line
8 inches straight
down from
line
E 6
line
E
to
line D.
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. A
Draft line
Use
one inch from the edge of cloth.
the end of cloth for line B.
Measure 50 inches down
line
A from
line
B and
draft
line
C
straight
out 56 inches.
Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C. Measure 3 \'2 inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. 1
Measure
2
',<
inches on line
B from
line
A and
place dot 4.
on dot 3 and draft a curved (See Diagram) line E from dot 4 to meet line D. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line F the width of flounce desired. Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired. Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H
Hold
(or
pin)
the
end
of tape measure
from the end of line F to the end of This will give the foundation dotted lines.
line G. for
any
style
of
Flounce desired.
See
—
6
5*
S
^fcu.^-y.fc
B
SKIRT NO. Use
the fold of goods for line
407.
A.
B
yi inch from the end of goods. from line JJ and place dot 2Measure }4 inch on line Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line from dot
Draft line
A
A
2 an d
place
dot 3.
C straight out from dot 3 about z inches. Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E • Vi inches more than the skirt length. Place the V 2 mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 an d draft from the end of line E to meet Draft line
i
i
line
C-
Allow
mcn
i/\
'
or
seam on
line
E-
FIRST SIDE PANEL. Draft line
A
Draft line
B
VL inch from the edge of goods. /4 inch from the end of goods.
Measure yi inch on line A fr° m line B an d place dot 2Measure inches more than the skirt length on line J^
A
I
from dot 2 and
place dot 3-
Draft line
A l
C
the waist measure straight out from dot 3less than i^ of waist measure on line
B
Measure }4 inch
fr°
m
hne
A
and
place dot 4-
H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/£ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D an d place dot 8Place the mark on dot 8 an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Place letter
%
line
C-
SECOND SIDE PANEL. Draft line
A
Draft line
B
Measure Measure
l
-
2
z
dot 3. Draft line
Measure
B from line A and place dot 2mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. inches more than the skirt length on line A fr° m line B and inch on line
3/£
Place the
Yx inch from the edge of goods. l'i inch from the end of goods.
C l
straight
inch
less
out from dot
3
pla^
1 the waist measure. /2
than yl of the waist measure on line
B
fr°
m
h ne
A
and
place dot 4-
F
Place letter
on dot
4 and
draft line
D
to dot 2-
Measure 2 2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (JMeasure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar>d place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2 inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/£ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Hne CAllow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E'
BACK. Dratt line
A
Draft line
B
Measure Measure
1
of goods. Y\ inch from the edge '2 inch from the end of goods.
U
inches on line
inches
2
A
more than
from
line
B
a °d place dot 2-
the skirt length on line
A
from dot 2 and place
dot 3.
Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m l' ne A an d place dot 4Place letter F on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2Measure 2 inch on line D fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 5Place the *4 mark on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 8 inches down. Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar) d place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7 an d draft line E z inches more than the skirt length. Measure z the distance between dot 4 ar>d line A on fine B ar, d place dot 8Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 an d draft line C from dot 3 to the end of '
'
/ l
line C-
Allow y± inch
for
seam on
lines
A
an d E-
SKIRT NO.
405.
USE FRONT OF
407.
A
Draft line Y\ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods. from line B and place dot 2Measure i}( inches on line Measure 1 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4 Place letter on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below
A
%
H
dot 2-
Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and GMeasure 2 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. and draft line Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9 Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot 9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line). Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end >
H
if line
E-
Allow Vx inch seam on
lines
A
and E-
BACK. Draft line Draft line
A B
V\ inch from the edge of goods. /i inch from the end of goods.
Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure V, inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on and place dot 5. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4.
E
line
from
line
B and
.
Draft the same for a single box
making the top
plait,
3 inches
and the
bottom 12 inches. For a
triple
box
make
plait
the top
inches and the bottom 19 inches.
7
Allow for seam on line E.
GOLF, BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT. USE FRONT OF
407.
SIDE PANEL. Draft line
A Y
Draft line
B
Measure
on
*4 inches
1
Measure
inch from the edge of goods.
5^ inch fr°
1
the end of goods.
line
A
om hne B and
h"
more than
inches
Y>
m
place dot 2.
the skirt length on line
A
from dot 2 and
place dot 3.
Draft line
Measure
C j
H
Place letter
Measure
on dot
4
inch on line
1
Measure
'/s
Measure
I
and
D
/i inches
Measure 4 inches Use the 2 mark
y
and place dot 4-
draft line
meet
draft to
of waist measure on
l
B from line A D to dot 2.
line
from dot 2 and place dot 5.
on dot 5 an d
G
Place letter
from dot 3.
z inches straight out
'
of waist measure on
3
D
line
line
A
m
dot
fr°
6 inches below dot 2.
5 and
place dot 6.
from dot 6 and place dot 7.
straight
down from
to draft lines
Measure zy, inches on
line
P
B
and
7 and place dot 8.
dot
G
from dot
from dots 6 and 7
4 and
to dot
8.
place dot 9.
9 and place dot 10. down from dot 10 and pl ace
inches from dot
Measure
2
Measure
8 inches straight
/2 l
dot il.
Place the corner of square on dot 9» the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line inches more than the skirt length.
H
Place letter
Hold end of line
E
'
l
/z
on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9. tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet
C.
Allow
y
A
inch seam on lines
and E-
BACK. Draft line
A
Draft line
B
Measure Measure
goods. Y\ i nc h from the edge of Yz inch from the end of goods.
5^/4 inches 2
Draft line
Measure
y2
inches
C
'
1
on
line
A
y
V
m
line
B
and place dot 2.
from dot 3. of waist measure on
2 inches straight out
\u inches less than
place dot 4. Place letter
fr°
more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3.
on dot 2 and
y z
draft line
D
line
B
fr°
m
line
A
to dot 4.
D
from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. Measure 7 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 1 and draft line E
Measure
inch on line
and
2 Yi
more than the skirt length from dot 4. Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 9. Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet
inches
line
C
5
Allow
inches from dot 3. inch for seam on lines
y
A
and E.
e
» 4
b
CHILD'S SKIRT— FRONT. Use
the fold of goods
B
Draft line
line
foi
A-
inch from the end of goods.
]/2
Measure J^ inch on line A fr° m me B and place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure I inches less than of the waist measure on line B fr° m me and place dot 4'
y
y
Place letter
H
Measure Measure Measure
I
inch out from dot
I
inch out from dot
on dot
4 an d
'
D
draft line
4
to dot 2-
an d place dot 5ar>d pkce dot 6-
5 down from
8 inches straight
6 and
dot
place dot 7-
E
Place the corner of square on dot 5. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line length of skirt. Place letter.
H
Place letter
}jf
on dot 4 ar>d draft on dot 3 an d draft inch seam on line E-
y
Allow
A
meet
to
6 inches below dot 5en d of line E-
E
line
t0 the
C
line
the
SIDE. Draft line
Draft line
A B zy
m
the edge of goods. V\ inch fr° /^ inch from the end of goods.
Measure inches on line A from line B an d place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3Draft line
place dot
straight out
C
Measure
from dot 3of the waist measure on j
inch more than
I
>'i
line
B
from
line
A
ar)
d
4
H on dot 4 a nd draft line D to dot 2Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 an d place dot 5Place letter on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2Measure inch from dot 4 an d place dot 6Measure } inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar| d place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6, tne edge on dot 8, an d draft line E the
Place letter
M
y M
length of
skirt.
R
Place letter
Measure Measure
I
ar|
d
meet
draft to
3 on
W on dot 10 and W on dot 3 a nd
Place letter
y
4
''
ne
inch straight up from dot
I
Place letter
Allow
on dot
inches from dot
l
9
line ar| d
C
E
5
inches
down
from dot 6.
place dot 9-
an d place dot 10end of line E>
draft to the
draft to dot
inch for seam on lines
A
10-
an d E-
BACK. Draft line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B i ncn from the end of goods. l
i
Measure 2 : inches on line A fr° m '' ne B ar| d place dot 2Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3. ^
Draft line
Measure
straight out from dot 3inch more than V3 waist measure on line
C 1
B
from
line
A
ar, d
place
dot 4-
Measure
M
inch straight out from dot
J on
Place letter
dot
5 an d
draft line
2 an d
D
pl a ce dot 5-
t0 dot
4
A
Place letter fH on dot 5 ar>d draft to meet line 8 inches below dot 2Measure 5 inches on line from dot 4 ar| d place dot 6.
B
Measure
8 inches straight
down from
dot
6 an d
place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line length of skirt.
Measure Measure
inches on line
I
1
1
yC,
}/f
Place letter
\|f
Allow
y
When
a dart 1
fr°
m
dot
3
is
th e
ar>d place dot 8-
up from dot 8 an d place dot 9-
on dot 9 and draft to the end of on dot 3 and draft to dot 9inch seam on lines A and E-
Place letter
the dart
C
inches straight
E
line
E-
required, measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making at top and to meet 4. inches straight down from the last dot.
y, inches
.
RIDING SKIRTâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; NO. Use the edge of goods
B %
Draft line te \j
it
(X*
for line
I.
A-
inch from the end of goods.
Measure J inches on line A. from line B, and place dot 2Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure ' j of waist measure on line BÂť from line A, and place dot 4. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure zyt, inches on line B, from dot 4, and place dot 6Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure jÂŁ inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9. Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 101
!
_,
1
1
Place the
point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot 12.
V
1
G
Draft line
H
from dot on dot
M
Place letter
10 to 3 and
dot 12-
draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A. from dot 2, and place dot 13. Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I.
NO.
2.
%
inch from the edge and end of goods. A and B Measure 3 inches on line A, from line B, and place dot 2Measure inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 3. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6 Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7. Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8-
Draft lines
4^
Draft line
Measure Measure Measure Measure Measure
E
from dot
4
to dot 8-
on
line
6 inches on
line
8 inches
A
B
from line and place dot 9. inches on line B, from dot 9, and place dot 1012 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot
6*4
H.
B, from dot 10, and place dot 124 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter R on dot and draft line G to dot 13. Place the corner of square on dot H, the edge on dot 10, and
H
straight out
from dot
draft line
R
1 1
Measure 8}4 inches on letter F on dot
line
Place
H
H, from dot and
draft
dot 11. Place
H,
and place dot 14. meet line 3
R %
line I to
inches from
letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Measure 51^ inches on line H, from dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15. Measure 2^ inches on l.ne H, from dot 16, and place dot 18. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 18 and place
%
Place letter
dot
19.
F
on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19. Measure 3 inches on line H, from dot 13, and place dot 20Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length, straight down from dot and place dot 21Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21Place
the
corner
f square on
nches.
Measure 4 inches
straight
dot
21 and
draft
line
R
up from dot 14 and place dot 15.
straight in
20
24
Measure 12 inches in on line K» from dot 21, and place dot 22Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Measure o inches straight down from the end of line and place dot 24Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 23-
R
1
Place letter
R
Place letter
S
on dot on dot
23 24
an d draft to dot 24draft to dot 8-
and
NO. Use
3.
the edge of goods for line AYz inch from the end of goods.
B
Draft line
Measure 9 inches on line A> fr° m une B. and place dot 2Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4 Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 5' Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 31^ inches on line B» from dot 7» and place dot 9' Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H. Place a dot on line B the distance between dots 7 ar>d 9 and measure
%
down
1 1
yi inches and place dot 12-
Place letter
G
on dot
Place letter
H on
straight
dot
4 and 6 and
draft line draft line
P to dot G to dot
12.
12-
Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13Measure 3 i/J inches on line B, from dot \\, and place dot 14Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15Measure 10 inches on line B» fr° m dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter R on dot and draft line J to dot 15Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20Measure inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22Measure inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place
H
1
1
dot
% 1
24
Measure I 2 inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2Measure 8 inches on line A» from dot 25, and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29Draft line L> from dot 29, to dot 23Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot
25262728-
3031-
Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30, an d pl»ce dot 32-
Measure
up from dot 32 and place dot 33to dot 31on dot 33 and continue line on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33-
3 inches straight
Place letter
S
Place letter
R
M
POCKET. A
Drafc lines
B %
ancl
inch fr°
m
tne e dg e an d en d of goods.
Measure 1 }4 inches on line A» fr° m une B» and place dot 2Measure 4 inches on line B> fr° m line A. and place dot 3point of curve on dot 3 a °d draft line C t0 dot 2Place the Measure 414 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 4. and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7Measure 14 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2» and place dot 8-
E
Draft line
straight out
from dot 8-
E» fr° m dot 8. and place dot 9. on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9Measure zyi inches from dot 9. on line E. an d place dot 10Place letter B °n dot 7 afi d draft to dot 10-
Measure
on
3 inches
line
D
Place letter
TROUSERS FRONT. A a nd B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods. inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr° m in e Measure and place dot 2. Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. Measure 4'^ inches on line A. from line B. and place dot 4. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2. Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and Draft lines
'
1
B
draft line
D
out
5
inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2.
more than
^
the hip measure on line
Measure the length of outside
ltg
measure on
Measure
inches
2
D
fr°
m
dot
2 and
place dot 6.
dot 7.
line
A. from
line
B,
a nd place
m
dot 3. afi d place dot 8. on line B» fr° line B» and place dot 9on dot from inches 3» z inch from dot 9 a nd place dot 10. 1 Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart. dot 6. and place dot Measure 2 inches in on line D» fr° 1^ of waist measure
Measure Measure Measure
2
Measure
2 V? inches straight
V
m
up from dot
H
H.
and place dot 12.
on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12. on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6. and place dot 13. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot and place dot 14. dot from down straight inches Measure 12 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15. Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15. inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from Measure 2 Place letter
A
Place letter
C
H H
^
dot
7 and
place dot 16.
Continue
line
Place letter
F
from dot 15, extending }4 inch below dot 16. the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7.
M on
BACK. A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods. Measure 3 l 2 inches on line A, from line B» and place dot 2. Measure }i of waist measure on line B, fr° m ,in e A. and place dot 3. Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Draft lines
Waist Outside leg measure
..24 .
.
.
J
2
Hips
4°
Knee
12
Ankle
9%
/
Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 5. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6. and draft down 4 inches. Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D. Measure 7^ inches on line A. from dot 2> and place dot 7. Measure j£ inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8Measure inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9-
y
i
line
D
I
I
F G
Draft line Draft line
Measure
I
from dot 2 to dot 8from dot 8 to dot 9inch
more than
?/*
of leg measure on line A, from dot 2, and
place dot 10Place the short
H
draft line
arm of square even with line A» the corner on dot 10> and ou t 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10.
Measure
2
inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl» from dot 10. and
H.
place dot
Measure 5 inches on line A, from d . 10, and place dot 12. Measure 4 inches straight out from -lot 12 and place dot 13Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 12, and place dot 14Measure 4.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A, from dot 2> ar*d place ,
dot 16.
Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17Measure 5 inches from dot 3, on line B, and place dot 18Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter H on dot 3, and draft line K to dot 19Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11, on line H, and place dot 20Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21Place the point of curve on dot and draft to dot 21Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22Measure 3/£ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place
H
dot 24.
Extend
line
Place letter Place
a
L from dot 23 to one inch S on the end of line L and
below dot 24draft to dot
dot j/ inch outside of the end of
line
L
17.
and
draft to
meet
line
L
4
inches up.
Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line
J 4
inches up.
CORSET COVER. BACK. A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2, on line B, and place dot 2Draft lines
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
line
A
fr°
m
Measure the length of back on
D
Draft line
Measure
straight out
line
A. from
B. and place dot 4-
line
from dot 4-
inch on line D> from dot 4. and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for center back and I
side
body on
line
D, from dot 5. and place dot 6Draft line E. from dot 2, to dot 5-
Measure
5
Measure
yt,
down
inches straight
from dot 5 and place dot 7-
inch in towards line A. from dot 7, and place dot 8-
Draft line F. from dot 5, to dot
8
Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9Measure 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place
A
letter
on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and
Measure
i
inch
-
2
than }£ of arm's eye measure straight
less
H
the
down from
dot
draft line
H.
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot
11 and place dot 12Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13point of curve on dot
Place the
Hon
Place letter
Measure
>i inch
Measure
5
A
5 and
K
line
H.
to dot
J
draft line to dot
13-
D, from dot 6, and place dot 14-
down from
on dot 6, and draft
14 and
dot
Q
line
to dot
from the center of the shoulder
L
Draft line dots
on
inches straight
Place letter
13 and
dot 6, and draft line
place dot 15-
15-
middle of
to the
line
D, between
(J.
dot on line
Place a
H
'8
i
ncn ea ch side of
line
and
L
draft a dart to
meet
2
inches below line H, drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H, and draft a
new
Place line to
H
line
from the
S on line L 9
letter
meet
Reverse
end of dart
the junction of lines
D
of shoulder.
and L, and
(See diagram
).
curved
draft a slightly
inches above line D-
curve and draft
the
line to point
on the opposite side of
line
(See dotted
L-
lines).
Extend
spring at bottom.
Allow
%
and
F
lines
L
about
2
inches below line
D,
w «h
about
/2 inch
l
(See dotted lines).
inch seams on lines E, F, H.
K
and L-
Cut on
lines
C
and J.
UNDER ARM FORM. Measure
3 inches
from dot 6 on Ime
D
and place dot 2.
Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure that distance straight
Measure
I
up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4. 4 and place dot 5.
^A inches straight out from dot
Measure the width of under arm form
from dot
straight out
4
and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from dot
3
the length of under
arm and place dot
on dot 5 and
Place letter
Q
Place letter
M on
dot
1 and
draft line draft line
Place the point of curve on dot
y
I
Measure
5 inches straight
Place letter
A
down from
on dot 2 and
draft line
inch out from dot
Measure
i/^
Measure
5 inches straight
Place letter
A
7.
to dot 2.
B
to dot 3.
draft line
inches in from dot 2, on nne
Measure
2
5 and
A
3 and
down from
on dot 3 and
draft line
dot
E
to dot 7.
8 and
place dot 9.
to dot 9.
place dot
dot
F
C
D, and place dot 8.
10.
10 and
to dot
place dot \\.
\\,
CORSET COVER. FRONT. Draft line
A
'^-4
Draft line
B
1
inches from the edge of cloth.
inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given B, and place dot 2-
in the
neck table under dot 2 on
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
3
S
line
A. from
line
7
±
9
IB
A-S-t "3 "lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3, on line B. and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft
H
line
J4
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure 2 inches Bj and place dot 4-
than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line
less
straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 4l of the bust measure on line inch more than /{
D
Draft line
Measure
1
D
fr°
A,
m
fr°
m
''
ne
dot 4, and
place dot 5-
D
Place letter
on the end of
line
H, and
draft line
to dot 5-
J
down
from dot 5 an d place dot (Jinches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7' I '4 Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line
Measure Measure
inches straight
5
length of line
Draft line
E in front. F straight in
from the end ot
LADIES'
line
UNDER
E
to line
E
the
A.
SKIRT.
FRONT. Use
the told of goods for line Athe end of goods. '2 inch fr° Draft line
m
B
&
2
(p
Measure }4 inch on line A fr° m iine B, and pl a ce dot 2°f tne waist measure on line B, fr° m l' ne A, and place dot 3Measure Measure j^. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 2Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5-
%
D
Draft line
straight out
from dot 5, about 10 inches.
V
Measure 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E inch more than the skirt length. Place letter R on dot 4, an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E meet line D-
% to
SIDE GORE. Use
the edge of goods for line Athe end of goods. Draft line }{. inch fr°
m
B
Measure 4 inches
less
than
%
of waist measure on
line
B> from
line
A, and
place dot 2-
^
Place letter
inch on line A, from ,ine B, and place dot 3inches straight out from dot 3 an d pl a ce dot 4dot 4R" on dot 2, and draft line C to
Place letter
R
Measure Measure
Measure
/2 l
1
A
2
on dot 4, and draft to meet line 9 inches below dot 3from dot 3, and place inch more than the skirt length on line
D
straight out
/ l
A
dot 5.
y
g
Draft line
'S
from dot 5-
Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 7, and
more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and
draft line
E
'
J i.h
3H
line
E
meet
to
line
draft
a
curved
line
from the end of
D-
BACK. Use
the edge of goods for line
AD-af* line B % inch from the end of goods. measure \:2 of the waist measure on line B from line A. and place dot 2Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place dot 3. Draft line
D
straight
out from dot 3-
Measure 2 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 5, and inch
more
Y'.oA the end of tape line on dot
~3>
line
E
to
Allow
draft line
E
'
than the skirt length.
meet Dbottom for width of hem
2 and
line
at
desired.
draft a
curved line from the end ot
TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL. First see that the
lining
the lining on the cloth.
is
cut
y2
inch longer than the measure.
See that the cloth
is
perfectly smooth.
Place
Run
a
basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front
and from 4
Now Now
%
to
4^
inches in the back, side-body and under
push the lining up
%
arm shape.
inch and run a basting across the waist
grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting
(%
inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist
Now for
Make the lining The bones must be
baste in the tracing }ÂŁ inch stitch.
about
1
inch below the waist
line.
line.
inch stitch) line.
slightly full
put in easy
when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least y2 inch in order to remove the fullness in the lining. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line to do your basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point of the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be longe.' up
to the waist line,
%
than
inch stitches.
Be careful
to baste in small stitches
around
tht
arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching. In the
joining the waist
pins as you baste.
arm seam, and lines.
if
large
it is
best to pin the traced lines
Measure your waist before or
first
and remove
stitching the under
small, stitch inside or outside of the traÂŤ"*
BICYCLE BLOOMERS. .Use
the fold of goods for line A-
B
Draft line
%. inch from the end of goods.
Measure
2
Measure
1%
Measure
down line A from line B, and place dot 2inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3 inches more than of the waist
inches
%
2
and place dot 4. Measure 9 inches down
measure on
line
line A,
line
A
from dot
M on dot 3, and draft line D
Place letter
Measure the length
of outside leg
2,
Measure , inch less than and place dot 7.
%
from
2,
and
and place dot 5
to
dot
measure on
5.
line
place dot 6-
2,
B
A
from dot
of outside leg measure on line
A
from dot
arm ° ^Jj"*' draft line l° E straight out, S
Tt
and 7,
Z
'IdpTce
B.
S(^ uare
even with lin e A, the corner on dot 7 beginning , 2 inches from dot 7 m0rC tha ° f thC hlP meaSUrC ° n lme E fr° d0t " f
m
*
Measure 3} < inches in from dot 8 on hne E, and place dot 9. Measure 5 inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot 10 Measure S inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot Measure 7 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 12. Measure 8 inches straight up from dot and place dot 13. Measure 1 inch from dot 4 on line B, and place dot U. Draft line C from dot 14 to dot 2. Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12 Place the point of curve on dot 4 and draft line G to dot 13 Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15 e C thC meaSUrC af0Und thC aDkle Str from dot6 Ld is"
%
U
H
^
pt eX
Place letter Place letter
Draft hne
J
ht ° Ut
G on G on
dot 8, and draft line H to dot 15 dot 15, and extend line H 1 inch beiow dot 16from the end of line G to dot 6-
SKIRT YOKE. Use the
goods for line Ainch from the end of goods 6 6/2 inChCS d ° Wn thC f ° ld f ° g00ds from line fold of
Draft line 5
^
dotT Hold
the
B
1
end
of
tape
goods and draft curved line Measure 2 inches on line Place dots 4, 5 and 6 on Measure 1 inch from dot Measure 5 inches straight
D ^iVfnches""
on the junction of
line
B
C from dot 2 to line B C from dot 2, and place dot line C 2 inches apart. 6 on
line C,
and the
P lace
fold of
3.
ana place dot 1
down from 7 and
place dot 8 ° f SqUarC ° n d0t 6 thC 6dge n d0t 8> alld draft line °
™"
V
line
B and
T
C he are on the J un ction of line B and the fold of J on °i goods, the edge dot 2, and measure down according to size of wais * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do ted lines the diagram.) Place the edge of square on dots 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make a dot in the same manner, according to the waist measure
^!t
'
011
dorado*: A)Vo\.A
»<j^«oS5'
™6 1 '
Hne
^ Pladng leUer J °"
thC
firSt
™
d0t and draft from
This will give you a correct shape at the waist line desired width, but it must be shaped at the back according to line D.
The yoke can be made any
)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING WAIST.
Vienna
To the
arrange the lining for drafting, fold
wrong
side of the
so that the drafting will be
it
made on
Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge
lining.
towards vou.
Millinery Institute
/
is to be put on full then it must be drafted 2 inch longer than measure calls for. When your drafting is finished it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together well before tracing and cutting. Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and be a great assistance in your basting. Never raise it with your Place the lining flat on the table when cutting.
If the lining
l
the
(
When
hand.
The
entire art of
Trace the with
cut put a small notch at the waist line. front, waist
and
line,
darts with
MILLINERY
B
line
other sewing lines
E
in the
drafting.
TAUGHT
TO CUT THE GOODS. See that the goods are folded double
the
all
under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired. The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the
and
in the front
FRENCH
From
one wheel,
wheels, making a '^ inch seam, except on the shoulders and line
both
making of Wire Frames
Final Finishing of the
to the
(
unless they are stripes or plaids.
and
instructions for matching stripes, plaids
)
(
See
figures.
Place the lining Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to cut saving), unless the nap or figure runs the other way, which of course must
Hat
or Bonnet.
be the
consideration.
first
It is best to
place
all
of the
forms
and
in position first
see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods, then pin carefully
before cutting.
YOU LEARN ALL THE
FINE POINTS Be very waist can tight,
This system
is
so thoroughly taught that
scholars after finishing are fully
com-
clip
it
careful
draw
will
No
basting.
in
bv improper
be ruined
matter
basting.
the goods out of position.
them every few inches, otherwise thev
how
Do
perfect
not
draw
vour draftings are the the basting thread too
Before removing the basting thread^ are apt 10
pull or break the thread 01
the goods.
petent to take charge of business for
themselves, or take leading positions Place the goods on the table face
for others.
up, then pin
right side line
with a
then
little
at
down.
Now
place the lining on the goods
the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist
ease, pinning the lining to the material.
Baste the waist line
first,'
up and down from the waist line with a from to ]/ Do not put your hand under or raise up to 2 inch long. Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm
baste the other lines in the tracing
stitch
baste,
^
shape.
Vienna Place the lining on the goods.
meet.
Millinery Institute 5
WEST
14th
STREET,
NEW YORK
the
Pin
waist
done very
the
line,
on
lining
then
line
a
A.
See that the front edge of the lining and goods
little
carefully, beginning at
inch stitch.
Now
to stretch the
goods
easy, getting
Now
it
all
in place, then baste across
pin and baste the darts, which should br
the top or point and basting
down, using
a
V
baste line E, starting from the waist line up. Baste shoulder next, then around the neck and arm hole with a yÂą inch stitch, being careful not as
it is
In taking up the darts,
holding lines \ and
K
cut partly on the bias.
first
pin carefully, beginning at the top of the dart and
a little full for
about 3 inches above the waist
basting at the point of the dart, using a small firm stitch.
line,
begin
TO
Take one stretch
to
of the back and one side body, placing the two waist line; Now pin in the traced or sewing lines, being careful nol
side
together and pin
JOIN.
fast.
either piece, so that
from the waist line down you baste, making a small
;
both traced lines will
come
Now -pin
out even.
begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as
Now
not over y^ inch.
stitch,
baste
down from
the
waist line.
Take ning
at
at the
These Tailoring Irons are up
arm shape and pin
the under
waist lines meet
body, being careful
to the side
Now join up and down. the traced lines up and down
the waist line, and then in
waist line up, then
to
have the
the back, pin-
baste from waist line
;
;
begin basting
down.
to TO STITCH.
date and
the most practical irons to
be had.
They
cold handle and
are
You can accomplish amount of work (without
heat retainers.
double the
reheating) than with any other irons.
The
First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, and a medium stitch (not too short), run the machine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast). Begin the back seams starting at the neck, Use silk in stitching in every case.
and stitch just above the waist
when
that
is
inside of the basting, stretching the
sprung
in so as not to break the stitch in the
Stitch the next, or side
price
is
$2.00 per
We
and stand).
set
do not send them
You cannot
C. O. D.
(two irons
obtain
them
elsewhere.
and
stitching
seam well
for
about 8 inches
while stitching, in order that the seam will give to the bone
line,
down,
body seam, with the of the basting
just inside
seam.
body up, beginning at dot 2, stretch the seam while stitching the under arm shape on the side
side ;
Stitch about 6 inches above the waist line. body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, ar>d stitching down just inside of the basting, stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the waist line. To stitch the left side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch for
up, following the same instructions,
shape the same
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
as the right
will place the side
this
body and under arm
side.
Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line and stitching up Front. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart, beginning ^4 and down. inch below the point of the dart, and finishing i^ inch above, nearly parallel with the thread of the goods ; this will obviate any fullness.
PRESSING.
remove
First,
on a
if
;
you have nothing
See that the iron
use the rocker.
the bottom of the waist
;
Never
the seams only.
basting from
the
surface
flat
is
well heated
take plenty of time
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
not too hot
and be
seam bottom up, and
press a curved
better turn a rocking-chair ;
start
pressing at
careful that the iron does
Do not stretch the seams. come in contact with any other part of the waist. heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened.
not
PRESSING CURVE
If
This curved pressing board necessary to the dressmaker as to
the ladies'
sleeve, dart in
seam
in
is
as
it
is
Every waist,
tailor.
TO PREPARE FOR BONING. First
above
;
then trim and round the seam
or bind the seam
skirt,
and any curved
any garment should be pressed
over the curved presser.
seam and notch
take the back
if
;
binding
is
at off"
the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches at
the notches
prevent any tightness on the seam.
Notch
the side
;
now
either
overhand
on slightly full so as to body or curved seam at the
used be careful and put
it
and 8 inches above waist line ; after notching finish off the seam the same as back, the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the waist line and
z
/ l
2
,
5
other seams.
This curve must not
be
price
is
Front. part
without our consent.
The
copied
|i.oo.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Cut
down
to
open the dart
y
2 inch
in
to
within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2
width.
inches above, and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist (The reason for notching the seams line, and finish the same as the other seams.
allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. ) Now fold the front in along line A, and baste y, inch back to prepare the front for button holes When buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of or hooks and eyes. Do not turn in the lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes.
is
to
hem
left
side, as
the
that
is
used
When
buttons.
•
by putting on
as a fly,
hooks and
eyes
are
a tape just back of line
used
it
is
well
A. t0
s,a v .
turn back and
to
A, an d stitch '& inch back from the edge. It is best bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running up ; to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y£ inch further in (or the width of the bone. ) The bone should be placed in before putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip. fold the lining along line
to place a
r&j[^#i|!a?sf>
Warren's Featherbone
and should be prepared by soaking in cold makes them brittle.) We also recommend Feather Bone. When the single casing is used, it should be sewed on firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above, the balance put in slightly full. Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly. Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom to the top of the loop. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^ inch below the top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness Then hoop the in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten When double casing is used, cut the casing firmly 1 inch below the waist line. 2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the casing, turn the upper end of the casing down I y£ inches and fasten, the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam • Now spring the bone \!z inch and fasten inch up from the bottom of the waist. firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone. Sew both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. This will force the hoop part within the proper position. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Use a bone 2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones for each side of the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure. The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi ' ncn of the point ot the dart. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. Co.vered and ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. A nice finish for the bones is to feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using Real whalebones are always
(Never
or tepfid water.
Is the
Standard Dress Stiffening of the world.
most durable and
lightest,
makes
construction
Its peculiar quill
it
the
dress-
flexible
boning material on the market.
Warren's Featherbone
is
used and recom-
mended bv such prominent
fashion creators
as
Mme.
L. Stewart, of Arnold, Constable
Mr. Paul Sarraco,
Mme.
of"
Gabler, of Lord
&
S.
Mr.
H
C.
Griffiths,
Bros.
of Alcott
&
WeeKes.
R. Hickson, of Everall Bros.
Mrs. Frazer, of Simpson, Crawford
Levy, of Jas. McCreery
Mr.
I.
Mr.
S.
Brown,
Ladies' Tailor,
The Bergdorf-Goodman
New Moschowitz
that
&
&
Simpson
Co.
New
York.
Co., Robes
et
,
Manteaux,
York. Bros., Ladies' Tailors,
Redfern's, Robes,
Isn't
Co.
Taylor.
Mr. Henry Levy, of Stern Miss
&
John Wanamaker.
New
New
York.
some
good evidence of
its
worth
ning ?
Accept no substitute, but get Warren's, the one and only Featherbone. Sold by all dealers. None genuine without the feather trademark. ods."
It's
Send
for
"Featherbone Meth-
FREE.
The Warren
pretty contrasting color.
Now
York.
good
in hot, as that
put the waist together, joining the front to the under arm shape, beginthe
at
Baste- the
waist
same
Then pin down from the waist line. and pinning up. seams from the waist line up and down. Now join
line
as the other
the shoulder, stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back
and pin and baste with the front towards you. The back shoulder can be put Press on full, should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. well. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish the same as other seams. Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure.
Featherbone Co. aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired. l inches deep, bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 /, stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Then turn up canvas and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining, this will Now cut the facing make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. bias I y? to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, stretching so as to shape smoothly to Turn the upper the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling.
Pin
General Offices, Three Oaks, Mich. New York, 808 Broadway Boston, 7 Temple Place Chicago, 704 Harshall Field Annex Building
Prepare
the
the
edge in and
waist
lines
canvass
fell
together
for
with a
the
light stitch,
Measure the neck of the according to instructions.
dress
Use
being careful not to catch through the lining.
and add 3^ inch tailor
to the
measure and
canvas for foundation.
It
draft collar
the canvas
is
used double, then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Fn the canvas on the material and cut j£ inch larger all around. Cut the lining the
same
Now
size.
baste the canvas
baste to the canvas.
down
Catch
on the material and
to the canvas
fold over the edge
with a long
stitch
and
without catch-
ing through.
Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back. Then pin around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. Turn in the edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down.
A
waist
is
never finished without a belt, as that holds
Cut the
it
firmly in position,
if
measure and finish off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line. Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams. put in properly.
belt 2 inches longer than the waist
Side Plaiters
HOOKS AND EYES.
%
A
Fold the lining on line and stitch inch from the edge. First mark for hooks and eyes, placing them I inch apart. Spread the rings in both hook and eye inch apart, this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. Sew the
French Accordion
%
Button Making and
hook
to the inside,
with the
even with the stitched
bill
line.
ring three times, then over each branch, then under the
Pinking Machines
Sew on
These moulds
are manufactured in the
following widths ready for use.
Sew
through each
Now
near line Aplace the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line ASew through the rings the same as the hook, and then at each side of the bow. alternatively until
even with the top
the right side, face with lining
bill,
of. the darts.
Then
all
hooks on
inch deep.
1
Prices as SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS.
follows:
12 inches wide, 9 yds long in frame $3.50
"
"
9
"
"
"
24
"
"
"
"
36
"
"
9 " " 9
"
"
12.00
"
"
18.00
18
48
"9
"
"
These machines
will
plait
5.00
7.50
any kind of
material.
We
furnish a
full
instruction sheet with
each machine.
Order
direct
from the
VIENNA INSTITUTE 5
West
14th Street, N. Y. City, U.
S.
A.
on the material, having the warp in each running the sami sleeve running the right way). Pin the lining on before cutting. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up, then place the lining on the cloth right side up, pin the lining on easy, baste through the center of the sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch, then baste in the traced lines, beginning Baste the outside at dot 5» ar>d baste up and down, using a y-i inch stitch. seam in the same manner, then baste top and bottom. Baste the under part in the same manner. Join by placing dots 5 together and pin up and down in the tracing. Fold the top of the sleeve down, having Pin up and down to dot 2 me et the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9within 1 2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about |/£ mc ^ w hich must be eased inch stitch, with the upper in to the elbow. Baste in the tracing with a First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the part next to you. Remove the basting, with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front basting from the seams. Round off the seam at dot 5 an d 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. Seams can be overcast or bound notches and press over a curved seam bound. Place a Face the bottom the same as the waist. to correspond to the waist. notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam. Gather between the notches y4 nc h from the'end. Place the sleeve in, holding it towards you, pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the front last dart. Draw up the gathers, giving the most fullness at the seam to the notch easy. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a top. Baste with a small stitch. Trim off and overcast. Shields should be tacked lightly firm back stitch. The fullness Never place the needle through the rubber. through the tape. in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow Place
way
the
lining
(the diagram shows the
y
^
>
(see
dotted lines), or
it
can be gathered for about z inches under the point of
the elbow.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT. Draft the right side linin g
skirt linings
up and
Place the goods on the table
according to instructions.
see that they are perfectly smooth.
even with the fold of the goods, bottom
at
Place the fold of the front the lower end of goods, and
pin firmly, then cut the goods.
In cutting the side gores place the straight edge of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. Cut the other gores in the same manner ; always see that the thread of the lining and the thread of the goods run the same way. Cut the stiffening to match each separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of the goods. This can be cut any desired width ; from I o to 1 8 inches is best.
The
stiffening
order to
stitching skirts rule about
skirt
have
should
45 inches long,
a
both
rules
ways.
marked
are If
you
inches
in
expect
to
do
work you must have good
perfect
lining
seam
have
all
95
straight,
rule (about
45 inches), and mark
stitching.
Stitch
up, the
other
a '^
and
Remove
ncn stitch. do this it is
a line just outside
with the bias side
down.
'
to
down
absolutely necessary
It is
best to have a long straight
of the basting
to
guide the
next to the feed, stitching one side
the basting and trim the
seam evenly ready
for
hinding or overhanding.
when
is
baste, using
seams perfectly
Pressing.
price
Now
the bias edge. to
tools.
The
4.
pin the out-
Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the down '4 inch from the edge. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch
in
order to give a perfectly straight seam.
These
a stitch 3 or
Then
top without turning in.
on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come beand the goods. Baste through the center of the front with a inch stitch, beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom 1 )A of skirt, then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge, beginning at the top and basting down and across the bottom. Baste the remaining parts in the same manner.
tween the
obtain perfection in
you
stitch across the
side material
SKIRT RULE In
can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with
Now
inches long.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Care
should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material
quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron ; open the seam well before placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when pressing so as to give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on the table. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Now
cents.
pin
pressing, as
it is
the corresponding seams
together at
draw each seam down evenly and pin
the top, then the center of the back,
Take tape measure and measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and mark. Now measure down the first seam inch more than the skirt measure and mark, measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark. The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the skirt measure make the remaining part of the skirt the same length. When the back measure is shorter than the front, the difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. Trim the bottom of the skirt inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the bottom y^ inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being careful that the stitch does not come through. (If a facing is desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the bottom, fold the velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop yÂŁ inch below the edge of the skirt, then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. The facing can be about 1 lA inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. Cut inch wide. Turn the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure, making it in the band 'X inch on each end, mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end. Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the front, pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. The back can be either gathered or plaited ; sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt. two large hooks and eyes. at
the bottom.
y
;
y
IMPORTED FRENCH SILVERED STEEL When
a less expensive stay than a
whalebone
is
desired
French watch
the steels.
They
flexible
We lots.
spring
advise
silvered
give perfect satisfaction
our customers.
to
we would
They
are
very
and strong.
1
prepay postage except in gross Price, per
sorted, 25 cents;
dozen properly asby the gross $2.00.
THE FRENCH METHOD.
The French method
is to seam the cloth and lining separately, Press the seams in both cloth and lining the same. seams in the lining open. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom, having it run the same thread as the lining, cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep (always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening.) Shrink hair cloth and When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be linen before cutting. strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the
taking
care
to
make
to finish a skirt
the
The
upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a be basted on very carefully, holding the hair cloth easy so as to prevent stretching. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining. If canvas, stitch to the lining i^ inch from the edge. If hair cloth, stitch through the binding. Press the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Place hair
cloth.
narrow
bias strip, this should
the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining. Pin the center at the top and then at the seams, each side. smooth the cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. Baste down the
Now
center of front with a
of the
make
to
the
i inch stitch, then each side seam, and finish the balance the same manner, being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient
skirt in
the
inches open
Now
lining easy.
and
lining
join
the
at
pare off the cloth at the back seam even with
the back seam
lining
top for placket.
and cloth together, leaving 9 or 10
Finish the balance of skirt as per previous
instructions.
DROP SKIRT.
A
drop
skirt
silk lining is
to
8
1
used.
It
)
When
pleating. tor
made by seaming
ruffles are
The
hem.
require
will
the material and lining separately.
most desirable
is'
inches shorter than the
2
pleating
is
used (which
for a
drop
skirt)
it
When
should be cut from
length (according to the width of knife
skirt
three
times
used cut the
skirt
width of the
the the
full
skirt for knife
length, allowing 2 inches
should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the hem, which should be blind stitched over. (See instructions for blind stitching.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according to previous instructions. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in plaits or gathers as desired. To make a clean finish, place a seam binding on Hat to cover the unfinished edge, stitching on both edges to the band. outside
material
actual skirt length to allow tor
A
drop
skirt
should always be
fitted
before finishing, as
it is
apt to sag around
the hips and back.
VERY ERECT FORMS.
Forms
that carry themselves very erect
usually have a narrow back in proporwidth of back measure, starting at the center of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the arm hole or where the arm hole should come, and use this measure instead of 14, of the bust measure given in the instructions, to locate dot 12For instance take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure, if the width of back was 6, this would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure.
tion to their bust measure.
Draft
E
line
fr°
m
dot
2
Take
to
a
dot 5-
In drafting the front take the difference
between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the Now take 2/3 of 6, which is 4, added to 42, makes 46. back) which is 6. Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM.
Use
the instructions
changes.
E
(in the
When
for
very erect forms and make the following additional
the front measure
2 to dot Make line A
back) from dot
is
2 inches longer
5. draft line
B
(> n
than the back, draft line
the side form) beginning
1
under arm form the same length as line B in the side body. Measure up from dot 3) > n the under arm form) I inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7Âť an d draft line B> extending inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front, lower the points of the darts 1 inch with the yi mark, curve in. The diagram will show the corand draft line inch below dot 4-
ln the
I
K
rect draftings.
If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking measure in drafting, basting, or by a mistake on the part of the worker.
Always measure neglect this.
for draftings before tracing
and cutting your
linings.
Do
not
'
X
draw
waist,
ifie
and see
it
in
proper position on the form, then fasten
down
we any
changes necessary. If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck, it is probably caused by a too long back measure. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness from the back, this will necessitate the cutting off" of about 2 inch from line (J.
5
"iiit
there
it
Y
If the waist, draws to one side
it
is
because the center back seam was not joined
Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the directly in the tracing. Should the front of the waist bind across the bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. Let out the under arm seam in most cases that will answer. When the waist is loose over the bust, the front measure has been taken too long. Open the shoulder seam and draw up the front to fit. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the evenly.
basting
is
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
If the arm's eye gaps in front,
shoulder seams.
Take
stretched.
Grean Designer of
Liadies'
Costumes
smooth over the
a
it
because the lining has been
is
draw
small dart in the lining and then
the outside material
and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam. To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when the basting is done. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining being drawn too tight in seaming. Remove the basting and draw the material tight over the lining. For a French bias dart, fold a small plait in the lining at the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods. Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. It will be necessary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form. Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv the back seam of the dart being stretched. This side ot the dart should always lining
be basted in easy.
Models for And
the
Trade
COSTUMES TO ORDER
Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Fullness on the shoulder, near the neck, is caused by high shoulders. (See instructions to locate the Open the seam at the point of shoulder, this will allow height of shoulders.') the waist to drop and remove the fullness. This change will necessitate an alteration in the curved seam joining the back.
To Avoid drafting structions
No. 19
East 33d Street NEW YORK
Alterations.
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Be very
for
and
basting
stitching
with
the
in
care
and
you
will
that the
Read
traced lines.
seldom
in :
have
alterations.
Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. Draw out some ot the cotton at the edges to make it thin, then tack the lining, using an inch stitch, layers
catching the lining very lightly.
When Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue
See
careful in taking the measure.
and basted carefully
properly done
is
one shoulder
These pads can be
lower than the other use
is
a
lined
pad
desired.
if
make
to
it
correspond
When
For a flat one hip is high pad the other side. bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to When a woman has a full bust, and hollow next to the arm, use a enlarge. pad tacked under the shield. with
the
high
one.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING.
To cloth
obtain
(not
the most
dress
satisfactory results
goods) with a
sufficient
it
is
body
necessary to to permit ot
select its
an
all
wool
being shaped to
You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths, some form with the iron. need much more pressing than others. All cloths for tailoring must be The most simple and effective sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin 2 yard Wet it thoroughly and wring out well. longer than the cloth to be sponged. the
will
y
Lay fold)
the
y2
muslin
over the table, place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the Fold the end of muslin over the end of
yard from the end of muslin.
and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours, as it After removing the goods from must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron, placing cloth
a
cotton
cloth
over tbe goods
to
prevent scorching,
be sure that the cloth
is
)
thoroughly dry before cutting, as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry. It is best (i thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth to use a soft cambric interlining in coat or jacket. (See waist instructions for tracing, cut-
C
t
and
ting jacket
basting.
before
interlining,
Cut
using.
it
)
is
well, particularly for
Use
stitching.
a
tailor
those inexperienced, to
the
fit
linen canvas for the front in the place ot
which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions, including
the reveres.
Baste the dart in the canvas, then join the front at the under arm and shoulder with the seams out, including the dart seam and shape the canvas perfectly to the form. This will require judgment, as a great deal of the fine work comes in here. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas
seam
at the shoulder, or to place a in according to the figure. (Lap all seams in canvas.) Place a dart in the arm's eye. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the waist line, from the dart to the under arm seam; cut and lap the seam. Cut and lap the regular dart seam, it will be necessary to use an extra-thickness of canvas, beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. When an extra foundation is required, an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added
V
'
(see
for the shape of both.)
Begin stitching
diagram
of dart, going around in in diagram. ) The canvas is now-
at the point
%
about inch apart (see dotted lines ready to be pressed into shape. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness is to be removed (use a hot iron.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open. Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. (See instructions circles
for
making pockets).
Take <i
mm
it out over the canvas, basting in traced lines with Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder, with , viiiii a i/ inch y^ the cloth over the canvas each side of thee basting,
and pin and around the arm's eye and down the under arm seam, then across the shoulder. Baste up line A and around the neck, then on the shoulder in traced lines and around the arm's eye y^ inch from the edge and in the traced lines down the under arm seam. Baste up the front and around the revere 3/± inch from the edge, and the full length of the front, each side of the dart. After stitching the back seams on the wrong side, trim the seam of the lining close to the stitching and press the seams open over a curved seam board. The cloth front must be made to fit the linen foundation perfectly. When the
down
N ' $y \ • \
stitch.
Stretch
stitch.
S
the cloth and smooth
inch
£
line
A
cloth
over
tight
dampen and
canvas
the
stitch
to
Remove
fit.
all
fullness
canvas by pressing, using a wet cloth and hot iron. ( See pressing.) Place an extra strip of canvas on the left side, inch from the edge, 1
is
over the
to
form a
stay for the buttons.
Crease the revere, beginning on line (J, half wav between dots 2 and 3, ceasing it down as far as you may desire. The canvas should be slightly eased on the cloth before padding to permit the reveres to roll over in position.
%
padding should be done by sewing a aid catching the cloth with invisible
inch
The
on the outside of the canvas stitches the full shape of the revere, leaving V2 inch at the edge (see diagram.) Baste a )4 inch tape around the revere and down the front, holding the edge easy to the tape, this will hold the revere in shape and give a firm edge. See instructions for pressing. Draft stitch
the
)
(
Cut the canvas K inch larger all around the co'lar. Cut four pieces of cloth the same size as the canvas and join the back of the canvas and cloth for collar and facing separately. Press the seams open, b«fp the canvas on the cloth easy (see dotted lines in the diagram for creasing.) Stitch with the canvas up in the dotted lines, stitching the balance towards the collar
according to instructions.
edge that joins the neck
Pad the and forth
collar
%
.
inch apart.
the 'same as revere, beginning at the
left end and going back inch of the edge and end of collar. ( See pressing. Place the center ot the collar to the center of the back (canvas up) and baste a--ovrd each side to line AStitch a 3,i inch seam and press open. Baste
around the stitch
to
be cut
ovtes
within
fold
of the collar and
prepare
for
down
the fold of the revere with an overhand
pressing (see instructions for pressing)
.
The
facing must
inch longer than the front, to allow for easing, and to extend from the :f the shoulder to the front of the dart, continuing straight down the
)
length of the
Join
1/
the
collar
coat.
Notch
facing to
the facing at line
A
in the
the revere facing from line
A
neck and to within
also at dot 3. 1
%
inches of
.
line A the same below line A on the jacket. Shape the bottom ot the coat the length desired. Cut a bias piece of canvas 3 inches deep and stretch to fit the coat at the bottom and baste in. Turn up the bottom of coat }4 inch deep. Trim out each seam to prevent bulk. After pressing the fold in the collar and revere, arrange the facing by placing the back seam in the collar right side of facing to cloth, placing edge of facing yi ncn outside of the edge of coat; basting the cloth easy to collar. See that the seam that joins the revere and collar together are placed over the corresponding seam in the jacket, then baste the
3 on
dot
distance
See that the collar facing extends below
the shoulder.
that
the
collar
is
i
facing along the revere,
prevent tightness
easy
the break,
to
then quite
for
full
3
or
4 inches
Continue basting, holding the facing easy to the end. To stitch, place on the machine, facing down, and seam Trim the canvas close to the seam; trim y£ inch on canvas all around. the cloth a trifle wider than the canvas and trim the facing a trifle wider than the cloth, this will avoid a heavy seam. When basting over the edge of facing, baste with strong cotton and a small stitch, working out the edge of cloth even with the edge of facing with the fingers, also see that the corners are turned out well. Remove the basting when the roll has been pressed. Arrange the facing over the creased roll in the collar and revere and baste with an overhand stitch. Basie down the front of facing with a catch stitch to hold the facing in position on the canvas (see pressing.) Stitch the edge to correspond with the stitching on the pocket. Place the button holes on the right side (see instructions for to
making button
fashion Journal
Styles
€lite
published, price.
It
circulation
has
general
use,
at
Fashion Journal.
other
You
FLAP POCKET.
The flap is to be lined with soft canvas or heavy silesia. Cut the lining 4 ]/, by 2^4 inches. Cut two pieces of cloth (running the same thread as the goods), one for the flap and one for the facing, which should be \£ inch larger all around. Baste the small piece of cloth on the lining for flap and round off the lower front corner. Cut the back end of the flap, beginning 3 3 inch from the end and slanting to the lower corner. Baste the flap to the facing, stitch y^ inch from the edge all around (omitting the top), with the canvas up. Trim the canvas close to the seam, the cloth a shade larger than the canvas and the facing
strictly
can send sub-
but kindly mention that you
saw the advertisement
in
shade larger than the cloth. Turn the facing over, rolling the edge slightly towards you and baste. Baste across the center part of flap and stitch the edge to compare with the coat. Press over a damp cloth. Cut two pieces of lining 4 by 6 inches, place the flap to the marked line on the coat, the lower edge up,
our Book.
a
VIENNA INSTITUTE 5
West 14th
St.,
the
any
scriptions direct to us or to the publishers,
N. Y. City, U.
S.
—
for pressing.
more than double the
than any
buttons')
Stitching deep and baste even with the bottom of the sleeve. upper part of canvas to correspond with stitching in the coat. Join the sleeve and turn in the bottom yi mc h and catch to canvas. See instructions
no better Fashion Journal for
and putting on
2 /4 to 5 inches
at
PUBLISHED MONTHLY. is
break.
See Instructions for Cutting, Basting and Pressing Sleeves. Open the back seam from 6 to 8 inches from the wrist up. Cut the canvas on the bias, from
Subscription Price $1.50 per year.
There
holes
over the
A.
facing out. Baste with a y± inch stitch yi mcn h" "1 the bottom edge. Stitch the flap Baste one piece of lining close to the edge of flap tor pocket.
the
with a yl inch seam fastening well at each end. Stitch the lining in the same a yfo inch seam. Cut the pocket, starting in the center and cutting to within y^ inch from the ends and mitre the corner to the upper seam.
manner with Cut
the
canvas from the back
on the seam
Take
at
the right side.
of the seam and turn the flap down and baste the lining in the opening and baste down.
Trim
part ot lining and baste to the back of the upper seam. Stitch upper edge of flap on the right side for a finish, it will also seam the lining. Shape the pocket lining on the wrong side. A bar tack should be placed on each end of the pocket. Place a damp cloth on the wrong side and
the other
across the
For
heavy.
press
seamed and
1
5
cents
we
SILK
Cut
the
will
send a cambric model ot any pocket,
cut.
silk
lining for front
large
LINING COAT.
enough
to allow a plait
1
inch deep, which
The
back can be 'lit The under with or without a seam, allowing for a plait 3/£ inch deep for ease. arm shape and side forms are cut the same as the draftings (all parts of the lining
is
placed from
the top of the shoulder to. dart for ease.
should be cut )i inch higher at the top and I inch longer at the bottom and all curved seams should be clipped.) Fold a plait in the center of the back and press to keep in position. Pin the lining to the center back at the waif line
;
ease
up the back, keeping the fold in the center by pinning every 3 or 4 inches. Pin line K in the same manner, then pin the shoulder and down the arm's eye. Pin the lining in position beiow the waist line. Ttr^. the lining to the seam of the shoulder and to the seams on line P' n the siae form on, Kbeginning in the center at the waist line and pinning every 3 or 4 inches up the center. Crease the lining even with line K, and pin and baste to the seam ready the
lining
for felling.
Pin
Baste line
A to
the seam, allowing )ÂŁ inch fullness across the form. line. Baste the under arm shape in the same
below the waist
position
in
manner.
Shape the dart in the lining to fit the coat ; pin the lining at the top the dart, then across each side of the dart. Fold the plait in from the top ot the dart to the shoulder. Begin at the underarm seam and pin aiound the arm's eye across the shoulder and down the front as far as the top of the dart. Pin
or
down from
To Match
Stripes, Plaids, Figures
and Diagonals.
being careful to have
on the back
it
exact, and do
it
move
the goods.
body lining and place over line ful
to
Now
K
in the
have
the
Take
the side
A
directly
line
Turn
Notch
lines
pin the side body lining
the lining right side out.
together, leaving the seams 3 or
tom of
body, being very careful not to
The whole
secret
in
lines.
lining)
is
to
Follow
matching the other
parts.
in the lining to
Tack
the lining at
within 'g inch of the bot-
the sleeve right side out and place basting arourtd the
and
the
Place
top.
press.
the
sleeve in the
same
as waist
Place the lining of coat over the seam and
Crease in the sleeve lining inch and pin at the back and front seam. Arrange the fullness around the top and pin in position all around and fell. tack.
_.
TO SEW ON BUTTONS.
and side
move
match
Fold
this rule
the
right
reveres are even at
side over the
be sewed
left.
the top and that
Place a pin through the
move the button Use linen thread should
the sewing
the
Turn
on the sleeve, placing the seams
inch longer at the bottom.
Fold
apart.
inches from
3
Slip the lining
^
lining
4 inches
the sleeve.
about
sleeve
the
even.
fast
remove the back and cut the
it.
the waist
at
for Basting Sleeve. Stitch' the seams y( inch inside of the the inside seam and press open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out.
back, being carewaist
Notch the seam
â&#x20AC;&#x201D;
Instructions basting.
(omitting
not
the point of the dart to the waist line.
2 inches
A
Be careful in drafting your linings. Cut the back first. Now take the back and match it perfectly on the goods, both faces up. Now take the lining and replace
and
above and pin down below the waist line. Finish pinning down the front. Pin across the bottom, easing the lining up about \i inch. Pin up the under arm seam 1 inch in from line ECrease the lining at line an d P' 11 and baste. Crease the shoulder at line Q and pin. Crease and pin the lining from the back to shoulder, down the front and around the bottom. Basle, keeping, the edge even. Fell all seams and the edge neatly. line
end of each from the pins.
first
holes
See that the waist the
meet and
that the
buttonhole to the opposite end. Place the button at the
or twist double in sewing a button on.
on loosely.
lines
buttonholes are directly over the stay.
first
Re-
pin mark.
Buttons having holes
Instead of making a
knot in the thread, take a small stitch in the cloth, catching the stay and being careful not to catch the facing. To form a shank draw up the button and twist the thread around twice very tight between the button and cloth. Take a stitch across the twisted thread and back through the cloth. Twist again and fasten the thread with two or three stitches through the shank and cloth. Cut the thread close to the shank.
When
covered
ous
instructions.
small
hole and
are used sew through the shank, firmly taking a small always catching the stay and fasten the same as in the previButtons with wire shanks should be attached by piercing a
buttons
stitch in the cloth,
placing the
shank of the button through, having it run Parallel on the under side with a shank ring oi hea.'/ buttons are to be used as a trimming thev should be sewed on
with the button hole. thread.
When
Finish
without forming a shank.
To
do pressing successfully it is absolutely necessary to have the proper A curved seam board, a large pressing board about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide (for skirts.) A large and a small Dad and a sleeve pad and a set of regular tailoring irons (for 50 cents we will sc.id a pattern of the curved seam board and pads with instructions for making.) / implements.
All canvas used in tailoring
work must be shrunk.
Thoroughly dampen w\C:
a sponge and
press lengthwise until
dry over a large pressing board.
Never
press a curved seam over a straight surface or a straight seam over a curved seam
board.
the seams over the seam board perfectly smooth and
Place
dampen
the
and carefully, bearing well in the iron to make a flat seam. All coats should have the edges and reveres stayed with a narrow strip of linen or tape on the wrong side and it should be put on tight when shrinking is necessary. Dampen well with sponge and press full
length of the seam with a sponge.
Press slowly
the edges in the shape required.
the
wrong
should be done on the
pressing
All
Take
collar
and dampen
at
side,
except the finished pressing-
both edges and stretch thoroughly by pressing Place the collar on the
with a hot iron, being careful not to press out of shape. board, the stitched side up.
Hold one end of
well with sponge.
the
form of a hoop, so as to obtain a round effect. (Use this the revere along the fold and press in the same manner.
up and press
collar
Dampen
Dampen
the
in
Do
instruction after facing the collar and revere.)
not press the fold of the col-
lar or revere fiat in any stage of the pressing.
To press the facing on a coat, take a strip of wet muslin and place over the edge of the facing and press. Remove the damp cloth and finish pressing over Before placing the continue, including the collar and revere. a dry cloth | lining
the
in
For
a
that
purpose.
bottom of the sleeve pressing, the
finished
Wet
cloth
a
the seams
should
be well
pressed again.
should be slipped over the pad shaped for
sleeve
and wring out well and place over the sleeve and It is it into the proper shape.
press
with a hot iron, using judgment to press
often
necessary to press over several times before obtaining satisfactory results
depends greatly on the kind of material.) When the sleeve is stitched in The the seam must be pressed open over the end of the curved seam board. The entire finished pressing of the coat should be done over the large pad. (It
be pressed, using a wet cloth and hot iron in order to remove all and give a fine finish. . To remove shine caused by pressing, use a thoroughly wet cloth and a very hot iron. Place the coat over the pad, lay the wet cloth lightly over the shine, hold the hot iron near the wet cloth with the right hand, with the left hand raise the wet cloth against the iron, this will force the steam directly on the shine. Nevr allow the weight of the iron on the cloth. should
coat
99
creases
BUTTON HOLES. For practice use
a
No.
7 needle
and No. 40 thread and two or more thick-
nesses of cotton cloth basted together.
Cut the button hole (which should be button
with button hole
)
Then
See diagram No. pp. underside
Insert the needle from the
end of the hole. at the outside end
Draw
the .
it
4 threads from insert the
the edge and inside
needle, point from you,
over
this
at the inside
end, the point of the needle
instruction the second time, this forms the bar for
button hole.
this
overcasting
Tailor
;
hand, holding
same distance from the edge of hole as up an equal number of threads from the opposite side.
through and repeat
Go
hole, being
Overcast the button
Take Muslin
or
left
the end of the thread near
of the button hole, the
needle
you.
3
the needle through
in first instructions, taking
the
Hold
with the thumb and second finger.
the folded edge.
Draw
than the diameter of the
place the strip of cloth over the fore fingers of the
in position
towards
a little larger
scissors.
stitch
begin
%
careful
to
hold the barring near the edge.
inch apart, taking care to include the bar.
button
hole
stitch.
Insert the
When
finished
needle in the right hand end
end) of the button hole, point towards you, taking Draw the needle and thread through. Insert the needle again, a thread or two from the first stitch, pushing the needle half way through. Now throw the thread under the point from right to left. Draw the needle and thread out at right angles with the slit, the twist coming at Continue in this manner, being careful to take the the top edge of the slit. In turning the end take 7 or 8 stitches and work the other side Pitches evenly. Now insert the needle through the first button hole stitch, draw .0 the end. Where the side and the .1.^ it through and bringing it out on the opposite side. (in muslin
stitch the
begin at the
same depth
left
as in overcasting.
"
:-
*
-;
barring meet, repeat the stitch twice, then hold the thread under the
left
thumb.
.RePlace the needle under the end of the bar, taking up a couple of threads. peat in the middle and at the other end of the bar, drawing the thread through
£
/
and
^S^ @L ^52^
finishing
on the wrong
Diagram No. 100 shows the
side.
THREAU Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread
different button
NEEDLES.
20, 24 and 30, use No: 5 needle 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle.
;o and 60, use No. 7 needle. 70 and 80, use No. 8 needle. 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle.
.
of the thread to be used depends upon the quality of the work. a knot hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, wind the thread once around the end of finger, twist the end twice into the loop with the thumb. With the middle finger pull the loop to
The
size
To make
the end.
Hold the needle Place the thimble on the second finger ot the right hand. between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand, the eye of the needle on the thimble; press the needle gently between thumb and fore finger.
Always pin
*
carefully before basting.
(
If the materials are
silk
or velvet, use
needles instead of pins).
a
at
stitch
puckering.
In learning to baste take 7 needles (sharps.) Careful basting prevents the seam or goods from basting make the stitch about l 2 inch long on either side,
50 thread and No.
Use No. only one
time.
/
In even
used for seams of dress waists and where two or more Uneven basting is mostly used over large thicknesses of material is used. Take 1 inch long on surfaces and skirt seams and as a guide for stitching.
way
this
°3
of basting
is
inch on lower. jj£ Diagrams Nos. 101 and 102 shows even and uneven
upper side and
basting.
BACK STITCH. tnread and
Use No. 50
No.
Hold
7 needle.
the material over the
left tore
Insert the needle with the thumb and second finger. Draw the needle out from right to left, pushing the needle nearly through. Repeat, taking up with the thread running between the third and little finger. stitch desired. a little of the cloth with the needle, according to the size of Fasten the end by taking two other stitches over the last stitch. finger,
holding
it
in place
Diagram No. 103 shows back
the proper stitch.
Diagram No. 104 shows
a halt
stitch.
RUNNING STITCH.
Hold the material between the Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needle. Take even stitches the same as even thumb and fore finger of the left hand. Begin at the right hand corner and take stitch over tore basting, only smaller. 105
This
finger.
also
// // ''fa ; ///„„:/ / ts/
stitch
is
used
Diagram No. 105 shows
-^
when
used as'a gathering stitch for
there
ruffles
stitch
on
is
no. great strain
on
.the
seam, and
it
is
and tops of skirts.
cloth.
RUNNING BACK STITCH.
#2 4
'
///AA,
M
more yi inch stitches on the needle at one time witn /% inch Repeat beginning in the middle of the last stitch. tor a running back stitch is used when you require a stronger seam than
Take up two
A
running -
106
or
space between.
stitch.
Djagiani ^o.
I
ob shows
a
running back
stitch.
To
form a hem, turn the edge of the material J^ inch and crease, then fold hem desired and baste near the edge of the first fold (on woolen or
the width of
soft materials baste
ger ot the
hem,
narrow
first
it
fold also. )
in place with the
Hold the hem over the first thumb and second finger.
fin-
In
-
you, yÂą inch from the end of Pull the needle through, holding the end
needle in the edge of fold, point from
the
sert
the
hand, holding
left
taking
up two or three
threads.
under the thumb. Now place the needle through the end of the hem, needle pointing towards the left shoulder; take up two or three threads of the cloth and the same of the fold. Continue taking the size stitch desired, being careful to make the stitches even. In starting a new thread, place the end 01 the previous thread under the hem and start as beginning. Always cut, never ot the thread
1
07
To
break the thread.
fasten at the finish take
two or
three stitches over the
last
one taken.
Diagram No. 107 shows the
stitch
needle in position.
OVERHANDINC.
To
overnand
is
to
join the edges
of cloth together, the edge can be selvedge
or creased fold.
108
Use a No. 70 thread and No. 8 needle. Hold the material along the edge and around the end of the left fore finger, keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger. In starting the seam, hold the two ends between the thumb inch from and fore finger, inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and the end. Draw the needle through, holding the end of the thread under the Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to thumb. Draw the needle through and place it you, the needle pointing towards you. Make through both ends of goods, taking -up two or three threads of the cloth. the stitch close and regular. Diagram No. 108 shows an overhand seam with needle in position.
M
OVERCASTING. Overcasting
is
done bv taking
a slanting
stitch
over the raw edge of goods to
prevent ravelling.
No. 8 needle. Trim the edges neatly before hand end of the seam. Hold the work over the fore finger of the left hand. Take a slanting stitch J<fj inch deep and }ÂŁ inch apart as shown in diagram No. 109. Continue in this manner, being careful to make the stitch even. Do not make the stitch tight.
Use No.
I
09
70 thread and Begin
overcasting.
at
the
a
left
GATHERING.
A and
gathering stitch
is
to take
stitch equal size, or the
up
several stitches
on the needle having the space
space can be double the size of the stitch.
If for a skirt, first fold and mark the Use No. 40 thread and No. 7 needle. of the front. Take thread the length of l 2 the width of skirt at top Insert the needle on the wrong side and run an even stitch to the center of the
/
center
front. Gather the other side in like manner, beginning at the center of front around to the back. Draw up the thread to the size of the band and fasten around a pin. In using a double gathering be careful to. have the stitch directly under the first. Double gathering is generally used on woolen materials and long stitches
should be taken
if there is
much
fullness.
Diagrams Nos. 1 10 and I I 1 shows single and double gathering. Diagram No.. 1 1 2 shows gathering inserted in the band. Diagram No. I I 3 shows gathering overhanded to the band.
Shirring other.
other.
is
Mark
done by making
several
rows of gathering
he rows.
Diagram No.
I
I
I
directly
under each
number or rows at the desired distance from each The gathering can be drawn up on the threads or bv cords run between the required
1
14 shows the shirring and
stitch.
FELL.
A
a seam hemmed down and is used principally for underweÂť-. seam to be felled 3/& inch deep with a running back stitcn. Pea' 2 of the seam next to you. Fold the seam towards you, turning under yi of the broad seam to make a narrow hem. The fell can also be made by placing the inner edge }i inch below the other. Diagram No. 1 1 5 shows a fell with needle in position. fell is
^
Join the
y
FRENCH SEAM.
LI 2
A French seam is made by taking a very narrow seam with the wrong sides of the materials together. Place the edges evenly, taking a small seam with a running stitch, and then turn the wrong sides towards vou. Fold the right sides together and crease at the seam, then stitch second seam with a halfback stitch, so that the
raw edges
are enclosed.
OR
jJLIND
SLIP
STITCH.
This stitch is used for fastening the roiled and invisable hem to attach folds to garments, also the milliner's fold. For invisable hem take up one or two threads of the cloth and before drawing the needle out, take up 1^ inch of the edge of the fold.
In making a rolled hem and attaching folds to garments, the needle placed that the inside section of the outside is caught to the under pieces.
Ficure No.
The uppe.
stitch
is
is
so
shows an ordinary catch stitch used to fasten down edges. 1 worked from right to left. The needle is set for a stitch in the
row and then
for a similar stitch in the
lower row.
See diagram .leedle
in position.
Figure No.
5
shows
the
same
stitch
used to
finish a
hem.
Figure No. 3 shows a single feather stitch. This is also known as a herring bone or briar stitch. This stitch is worked lengthwise. Start from the right, then to the left, keeping an even line. See diagram needle in position. Figure No. 4 shows the same stitch applied and finished with the stitching.
to the right side
Figure No.
2 represents a
double feather
elaborate stitch
is
desired.
Figure No.
7
shows the anchor
to a
The
hem.
stitch.
This
is
used
in position.
when
a
more
See diagram needle in position.
finished.
Figure No. 8 shows the Kensington
stitch
Figure No. 9 shows the chain
with the needle
Ficures No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and process of making and finished.
stitch
6 show
with the needle in position.
in position.
different styles
TO MAKE A CORRECT
of arrow heads in the
BIAS.
Take the corner of the goods and fold over so that the end and cut. Diagram No. 10 shows bias strips cut and how to join.
the edge and crease the bias fold
IJ 5
turned
latter is
See diagram needle
will
be even with
TUCKING.
A
tuck
No. 60
a fold
is
made
Use No.
in the material for a trimming.
7 needle and
thread.
7 ake a piece of stiff paper 3 or 4 inches long and I inch wide. Cut first notch on paper the width of tuck desired. Cut a second notch three times the width of tuck from the end of paper, this will allow the rucks to meet. Should space be desired between the tucks, the distance required must be added to the second notch. Now fold the goods on the line of a thiead at the desired location of the tuck. Place the end of paper on the edge of the fold and mark with pencil or pin at the first notch. Move the paper 1 inch to the left and mark again and continue until
tuck
is
finished.
Now
To make
baste or stitch the tuck.
a
second tuck place the end of the paper on the edge of the first tuck and mark at the second notch through the single of the goods same as in first tuck, then crease in rhe marked line, then mark a second tuck the same as the first. Now baste
same
or stitch the
as
first
tuck.
Continue in
this
manner
until the desired
num-
ber of tucks are finished.
A
generally placed lengthwise of the goods.
plait is a fold
First fold the
edge of goods under the width of
from
the edge three times the width
Then measure
plait desired.
of
Now
fold and bring meet the edge of the under fold and tack at top of plait. Continue in this manner for the number of plaits desired. Be careful that the fold is laid evenly to the bottom. Tacking each plait to keep in place for pressing (pressing must always be done on the wrong side), this forms a knife plaiting. When less fullness is desired a space can be left between the plaits. For box plaiting begin at the center, folding the plait under at the right and then at the left, the width desired. Always tack plait For a double box plait, fold in another plait at each side.
the
to
Fig.
left
edge back
to
in fold at
the top Co
keep
in position.
Only
made
a skirt.
press
plait.
when
a flat plait is desired.
J
A
placket
is
long
and
inches
is
in
The
opening
14
is
usually placed in the center of the back seam.
of the opening the width of the seam to the top of the
right side
lining in
an opening
inch from the edge and
fell
down
to the cloth.
from
skirt.
Cut
5 to
Turn the
10
in the
Fold the fly
I
J^ to
Turn in the opposite side wide and 1 inch longer than the opening. of cloth the same width as the seam. Attach the fly to the under edge of the fold and sew it on with a running back stitch. Turn the lining in towards the fly and fell down as on the opposite side. Tack the fly across the bottom on the wrong side with a back stitch wi f hout catching through. A placket in children's cloths shou:d be from 4 to 6 inches long. It is sometimes formed in the seam- of the garment, or it can be cut in the middle of the width. At the right of the opening make a hem 3^ inch wide, the full length. Fold the At the left make a 1^ inch hem, bringing it to a point at the bottom. right side over on the left hem, forming a plait the width of the large hem. Fasten with a small back stitch to the end of the opening. 2 inches
A and
gusset as
desired.
cut
in
a
is
of cloth cut in the shape of a triangle and used to enlarge, It can be cut any size opening at the end of a seam. piece of cloth 2 by^2 inches and fold to form a triangle and Always set a gusset into a seam, never into a rent made by-
a piece
stay in
Take the fold.
a
an
down, as the hem on edge cannot be well finished ready for gussets. Put a row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after set in.
cutting
Velvets and plush should be
Cloths and
made with
the nap or pile running up.
other wool fabrics should be
all
made with
the nap or pile running
down.
Always
cut, never tear the goods.
Clip
selvedges or cut off entirely before sewing.
all
Baste velvet with sewing
Hold
velvet
lightly
never with cotton or linen thread.
silk,
when
Use an
sewing.
extra piece of velvet, both piles
together.
Sponge
Never
all
woolen cloths before cutting and making up.
piece a skirt at the top to lengthen
Always
cut the thread, never break
When
taking
it.
it.
out stitches pick one out
at a
time, being careful not to
mar
or
the work.
soil
thread or
Select
The warp
shade darker than the material,
silk a
threads
of
a
cloth run
lengthwise.
as
The
it
will
work
or
filling
lighter.
woor runs
crosswise.
The look
pile or
as
nap should always run the same way, otherwise the garment will This applies to all changeable goods, used.
two shades had been
if
cashmeres and Henrietta cloths. material Folds or creases in fabrics must be removed before the
Henrietta
For
and
Always
IO
The In
and
cloths
between the
baste
slightest deviation
tacking
shields
with
up.
weight silks, split a sheet of cotton wadding and goods with the rough side next to the goods.
fine crinoline.
from your measure will often
care
made
light
lining
interline velvet
is
should be taken
to
spoil the
garment.
catch in the binding, not through
the rubber.
Defects in the form should be overcome by padding.
known agents to remove grease spots or soil if white cotton cloth under the spot or garment piece^of Place a properly used. Apply with a soft piece of white muslin. to be cleaned to prevent stain marks. dry cloth untiL all dampness is removed. a with rub After the spot is removed Naptha
Do
not
or benzine are the best
have any
fire near.
hot, place or
remove creases in crapes and velvets, heat a pressing iron c?0 Place a wet cloth over the iron and hold the material hold it bottom up. down to the wet cloth so that the steam will be forced through.
To
e
BOY'S SHIRT WAIST. l inch from the edge and end of cloth. A and B /z Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line B, and place dot 2-
Draft lines
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
A
fr°
m
line
Measure
more than y£
inch
i
of"
bust measure
on
line
E
from
line
A. and
place dot 7-
^
Place the
point of curve inch in from dot 7 on line E, and draft line F end of line ]). Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2, and place dot 8Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9. Draft line G from dot 8. to dot 9. Measure I inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8, and place dot 10to the
#
Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. Measure 4'- inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Measure )£ inch out from dot and place dot 12. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12.
H
K
Draft line
straight in
Take measure
the
same
from dot 12 as for
to line
H.
A.
children and omit taking the front measure.
MEASURE 8 YEARS. Bust
2 ;
_
"Vaist
_
>ack
_
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye.
23 I2 i^ r
1/
,
n
NECK BAND. A
Draft lines
Measure
yi
Draft line
C
Measure Measure
1
and
B
%
inch from the edge and end of goods. on line from line B, and place inches straight out from dot 2.
the shirt neck measure
i%
y£ inches on
line
zi/^ inches out line
C
B
A
dot.
2.
from dot 2, and place dot 3. from line A, and place dot 4.
Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4. Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B» and place dot 5, Measure |/£ inch on line from dot 4, and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6.
D
^
f£\
rg
on dot 5 and on dot 6 and Allow y£ inch for seams on Place letter
Place letter
Q Q
draft line
draft line lines
F
F G
to dot 2. to dot 3.
and G.
BOY'S COAT.
BACK. A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on B, and place dot 2. Draft lines
NECK TABLE. Dot 2
line
A
from line
Place the point of curve on dot
^ and draft line E to the end of line D. Measure the length of" back down line A fr° m dot 2, and place dot 8. Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9. Draft line
F
straight out
from dot 8.
Measure j£ inch on line F from Draft line Q, beginning 6 inches Extend line Q to meet line A. 5 Measure 2 inches less than i^ place dot
dot 8. and place dot 10. below dot 2 and draft to dot 10. inches below dot 8.
of waist measure on
line
F
fr°
m
dot 8. and
H.
Place letter
Draft line
Q
J
on dot 7. and draft line from dot 9.
H
to dot
H.
straight out
Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12.
H
from dot 9»
BOY'S COAT.
FRONT.
B
Draft line
A
Draft line
B
2 inches from the edge of cloth. one inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given and place dot 2-
in the
neck table under dot 2 °n
XECK TABLE. Dot 2
line
A
fr°
m
'>
ne
.
H
and i* m between dots Measure down line H from dot 9, the distance ,. j„„ the back and place dot 13. between dots inch more more than the distance Measure down from dot 8 ,
I
d
9
Placer ton l!
^ PlLe" G
lines
To
S
h
hr
O
4
curve on dot 14 and i3, the ed g e of
tit on
°pofn t
the end of line
draft line
to
J
of
draft to the junction
J and
and A. double breasted, follow the dotted
coat
this
draft
the collar
Cut
lines.
material.
on the biasot the
BOY'S COAT SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE. Draft line
Measure Measure
^
from the edge ot cloth. m the end ot cl ? th; „ from line B, and place dot 2inch on line measure on line less than the hand
A % B %
Draft line
in
inches fr°
'
i
,
A
inches
2
B
from hne A. and
.
D from hne B, and
place dot 3-
from dot
C
Drzft line
Measure .inch
less
P
^Measure' V, inch
%
Measure
"Ivlt^
2
to dot 3-
than
inch
less
V2
the length of sleeve from dot
4 on
line
%
\%
A, and
„
from dot 79 inches straight out from dot 7, and place dot 8 inches down line of arm's eye measure on hne than inches more
A Measure ; Measure . 7, and place dot 9j i i dot 10 and place dot \\. Measure . inch straight down from draft line E to dot 5Place letter S on dot 2 and extend line E to dot 8^ Place letter S on dot 5 and dot 9 and draft line F to dot *. on curve of point Place the draft me G to dot 9 point of curve on dot 11 and Place the draft line H to dot 1L and dot on 6 Place letter S dot &. on dot 6 and extend line H to Place letter
U
„i
,.
%
,
D
-
from dot 4 and place dot 5from dot 5 of arm's eye measure straight out than
place dot 7-
Draft line
A
straight out
inch more than
,
me
the length of sleeve on
%
.
,
,
D
from dot
.
-
M
Mow
(See diagram on the lower end of sleeve for facing. lines on Cut F and Gfor seams on lines E and H-
)
Xt inches
Allow
/inch
UNDER SLEEVE. A % inch from the edgeendofotcloth cloth B % inches from the place dot 2and line from B. line up inch A the hand -
Draft line Draft line
'
Measure Measure \ Inches A, and place dot 3 I
C
Measure
.inch
Measure Measure
5
3
Meat
"
thin the measure around
from dot 2> to dot 3,. the length of sleeve on hne less than
Draft line
?
less
%
.
A
.-
from
rrom hne
id line
.,, B, and i
and place dot 5•, inch straight out from dot 4 dor eve measure straight out from arm's the inches less than
%
l%
on P;l length of sleeve from dot
Measure 2% inches down Measure 3/ inch down line Measure finches less than
"'plirtht
B
on hne
!)
pit
A *
line
A
from dot
4 and
place dot 7-
7 and place dot 8 from dot 8, and place dot 9the
of curve on dot
from dor 7 arm's eve measure stra.ghr out
9 and
draft line
^
Note-To place dot 10 measure % place dot 10ure eft line D from dot 7 and
D
>« s than
to dot
10-
°f
arm
*
'
S
^ "^
point ot curve
Place the
on
line
D
z inches
rrom dot
9 and
draft to dot 8-
(See diagram).
S S S G
Place letter Place letter Place letter Place letter
Allow Allow
on on on on
dot
2 and draft line E 5 and extend line
to dot 5-
E
to dot 8dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q. dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3-
dot
(See diagram). y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. inch seam on lines E and FCut on line D-
1
J/£
BOY'S COAT COLLAR. and B J^ ' ncn fr° m the edge and end or goods. inch on line from une B> and place dot 22 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3-
A
Draft lines
Measure Measure
A
3/jj
Draft line
Measure
from dot 2
C
to dot 3than l/ 2 of neck measure on line
inch more
1
A
trom dot 2> and
place dot 4-
Draft line
D 3 inches straight out H or dot 3 and draft
Place letter
>
from dot line
Measure \i inch out from dot 4 an d
A
from dot 4. sews on the coat.
E
to
4 and
place dot 5-
dot 5-
draft a slightly
curved line to meet line
2 inches
Line
E
Cut
the collar on
MEASURE FOR BOY
8
the bias of goods.
YEARS.
Chest Waist Back
25 23 \z)/z
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
10
5
13
Sleeve.
17 7 21
_
.
Hand Length of Coat
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY
COAT.
S
—Take —Take measure Buck. — Measure from back Under Arm. — Take measure up under —Take measure around Arm' neck smooth. Neck. — Around of S/eeve.—¥rom hand Hand. — Around
this measure around the chest smooth not tight.
Chest.
Waist.
rather snug.
this
the large joint in the
well
this
1
z ]/
Eye.
neck
to the waistline.
arm down
to the waist line.
ot the
the
over the point of shoulder smooth.
th's
the bare
shoulder to wrist.
the point
the
tight.
BOY'S KNEE PANTS. A and B '2 ncn from the edge and end of cloth. Measure 3^ inch on line B fr° m line A> and place dot 2' Measuie l 2 inch less than of the waist measure on line B fr° m doc 2» and place dot 3Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr° m ne B> ar| d place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure, and place dot 5. Draft lines
i
^
/
'>
Draft line
*
3t=S=lf
D
straight out
trom dot 5.
Measure lA inch on line D from dot 5 a "d place dot 6. Measure up line A fr° m dot 5. the inside leg measure, and place dot Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6, extending inch below dot 61
7-
1
Draft line
F
from dot 7.
straight out
Measure }4 inch
than j{ of the hip measure on line
less
F
from dot 7, and
place dot 8.
Measure
)A
inch
less
%
than
measure around the knee from dot 6 and
the
place dot 9.
Measure
G
J
from the end
H on dot
Place letter Place
down from
inch straight
I
Draft line
10
and
9 and
dot
E
line
.of"
to dot
draft
line
H
to dot 8.
the corner of square on dot 3. the short
straight
down
Measure
arm on
B, and
line
draft line
to line F.
z inches
D
Place letter
place dot 10.
10.
up
from
J
line
on dot
and
1 1
F, and place dot
line
draft
line
K
H.
to dot 8.
BACK. A
Draft lines
and
B
'_>
inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given
A
from
B
line
the table (according to waist measure) on line
in
and place dot 2.
Dot 2
^A
zi/i
Waist Measure
Measure
20 21
%
1
%
more than
inches
22 23
*H 24 25
of waist measure on
line
3/4 26 27 28 29
B
from
line
A
and place dot 3. Draft line
inch on line
1
Measure
I
Measure
3
Place
from dot 2 to dot 3.
C
Measure
from dot 2 and place dot 4. 4 on line (J, and place dot 5. C from dot 5, and place dot
C
}( inches from dot + inch '
the
on
line
6.
corner of square
D down 4^ inches. Draft line E from the end
on dot 6, the edge even with
line (J,
and draft
line
Measure
%
I
of
inches straight
line
D
down
to dot 5.
from dot 3 and place dot 7.
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the short arm on dot the distance of outside leg measure.
down
7 and
F
draft line
Measure 6 inches down Draft line
G
Draft line
H
Measure
yt.
place dot 9Draft line
line F from dot 4, and place dot 8. inch in towards line from dot 8from dot 2 to the end of line G. inch less than the outside leg measure on line from dot 2, and
A
1
A
J
straight out
Measure the length of Draft line
K
from dot 9. measure up
inside leg
straight out
line
A
from dot 9 and piace dot
from dot 10.
Measure J^ inch 0.1 line J in from line F, and place dot H. Measure 1 inch straight down from dot and place dot 12. Place letter on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below
H
M
line
K.
Measure \]/2 inches more than from line F and place dot 13. Measure inch more than 2
y
and place dot 14-
Measure
%
of the measure around the hips on
y2
the measure around the knee from dot 1
down from dot 14 and place dot 15. from dot 12 to dot 15. Place letter on dot 15 and draft line to dot 13. Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line and place dot 16. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line to dot 13. Draft line
inch straight
1
Dfl
H
N
K
Extend
line
Q
from dot 17
to
dot 3.
line
K
)
BOY
KNEE PANTS MEASURE.
S
YEARS.
8
Waist Hips Inside
Leg Measure
24
.
.
34 I o
.
Outside Leg Measure
18
Knee
11^ TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS.
Take Take Take
the waist measure easy not tight. the hip measure snug.
the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired.
Outside leg measure from waist Knee. Around the knee snug.
—
line the length desired.
MEN'S SACK COAT. FRONT. A an d B lA ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. an d place dot 2Measure inch less than 2 the neck measure on line B from line A> an d
Draft lines
'
l
'
>
place dot 3-
Measure Measure
inch in from dot
1
on dot 5
Place letter
F
Place letter
C on
Measure
3 an d
'
Ys,
inch straight out from dot
1
V?
dot
4
ar>d draft line
an d draft
inches straight
2
ar| d
C
pl a ce
down and
place dot
4
dot 5-
t0 dot 4-
to dot 3-
of the arm's eye measure on
line
A from A
line
B>
ar, d
place dot 6.
Place letter \J on dot 5 an d draft to meet line 4 inches below dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 an d draft line straight out 8 inches,
B
beginning 8 inches from dot
(j
Measure 3 \? inches less than \-c of the chest measure on line D fr° m dot Q, and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A» a "d measure down the length of front measure less the length of line C > n the back and place dot 8Measure lA inch less than '-i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8, and place dot 9Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr° m hie B. an d place dot 10Place the corner of square on dot
10 a nd
draft line
E "straight
out.
R
on une E 8 inches from dot 10 a nd draft line F to dot 8Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 a nd place dot H. Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. Place letter
V on dot 12 a nd draft line Q to dot 3R straight down from the end of line Q to line BJ inches on line R from line D. an d place dot 13.
Place letter
Draft line
Measure 1 Measure inch less than y± of the arm's eye measure straight in from do 13 a nd place dot 14Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 a nd place dot 15. Place letter B on dot 15 a nd draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from 1
1
line
R.
Place
point
the
of the curve on dot
round curve. Place letter K on dot 14
14 and
draft to
meet
line
S-
(Use
the small
a nd
extend
line
S
to dot
Place the corner of square on the junction of lines
9 and
draft line
Place letter
p lace-
letter
H A
X
12. and B, the edge on dot
R
straight from dot 9. on dot 9 an d draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7. on dot 15 a nd draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B
the
Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in back and then measure that distance down line T fr° m dot 15 and place
dot 16. Place letter
M on
the end of line
F
and
draft to dot
16.
SACK COAT BACK. A and B ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure y> inch on line A "" om line B» and place dot 2. l inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from Measure />
Draft lines
'
line
A. and
place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot
3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure the length of back measure on line A fr° m 'i ne B» and place dot 4. Measure one-fifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place
dot 5-
Measure the length of the coat line B» and place dot 6.
30 inches) on
(usually from 27 to
line
A
from
Draft line
D
Place letter
straight out the distance
}ff
on
line
A
1
%
inches
between dots 4 and 5. below dot 4 and draft
to
meet
below dot 2Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 9. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place the corner of the square on dot 3» tne edge on dot 10 and
line
A
8
inches
the length of shoulder and place dot
draft line
H
H.
Measure /2 inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from 11 and place dot 12. Place the long arm of square on line A. the short arm on dot 12. and measof chest measure and place dot 13. ure lV inches less than Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. to dot 5. Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line Continue line K straight to the end of line D. l
dot
%
K
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT. Chest 1.
—Around
the chest, under the coat, take this measure easy not too
tight.
Waist 2."^Around
the waist, above the hips, easy not too tight.
— From on back of neck neck — From Back Under Ann 5. — From snug up under snug — Hold Shoulder — Around neck above Neck Arm's Eye —Around arm over Front J.
joint
easy
the
7.
arm
to waist line.
of shoulder.
the collar.
the point of shoulder snug.
the
8.
the
against the neck to point
tape line
6.
to the waist line in front.
to waist line.
joint in
4.
COAT SLEEVE. of — From hand. of elbow — From — Around arm below Fourth. — Around arm below elbow — Around hand width
First.
Second.
point
shoulder to point of elbow.
point
to
shoulder the width desired.
Third.
the width desired.
the
Fifth.
desired.
MEASURE FOR COAT. Chest Waist.
3
Front
23
35
Back
20
.
Under Arm
10
Shoulder.
Neck Arm's Eye Length
1
-
--
-
-
-
6 14
-
18 -
29
COAT SLEEVE. A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure I inch on line A from line B» and place dot 2Measure J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line and place dot 3Draft lines
I
Draft line
from dot 2
C
.
B
from
"line
A^
to dot 3-
y
Measure 2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro* line B> and place dot 4Measure 3 + inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out trom dot 5 an d place dot Q. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4» and place dot 7Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7» and place dot 8l
W
Draft line
Measure
F
straight out
3
of the
J
from dot 8measure around the arm on
first
line
F
from dot 8. and place
dot 9.
Measure I inch more than )/2 the first measure around the arm on from dot 8» and place dot 10Measure 3 inches on line from dot 7> and place dot \\. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12.
line
F
A
Place the point of curve on dot
7 and
draft line
point of curve on dot
Place the
Measure Draft line
~
inches straight
T
on dot 9 and
l
1
Place letter
draft line
H
Q
to dot
draft to dot
dot
10 and
to dot
12.
12. place dot 13.
13.
from dot 13 to dot 6.
J
W on dot
Place letter
9 and down from
6 and
draft line
K
to dot 3.
/
UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE. Draft lines
A
Measure Measure
inch on line
1
y
and
B
from the edge and end of goods.
'2 inch
A
from
A
than
2
inch
C
from dot 2
less
X
B> and place dot 2hand measure on line
line
the
B
from
line
A> and
place dot 3.
Draft line
to
dot 3. the measure from elbow to wrist on line
Measure yi inch more than
B
A
fr°
m
and place dot 4. Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out from dot 5 and place dot Q. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2. Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure 4 inches on line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou:
line
W
from dot
8 an d
Place the
place dot 9. point of curve on dot
Place letter Vf on dot on dot Place letter
M
7 and
draft line
9 and
draft line
G
to dot 6.
6 and
draft line
H
to dot 3.
F
to dot
9.
MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE. Shoulder
Elbow
to
to
Elbow
.
Wrist
15
10
Around Arm Below Shoulder
16^
Around Arm Below Elbow
1
Around Hand
12
5
*4
COAT COLLAR. l inch from the edge and end of goods. A and B /\ Measure I inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line B, and place dot 2. Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A» and place dot 3.
Draft lines
y
Draft line
Measure Measure
C
from dot 2. from dot 2» and place dot 4. and draft line x inch down from dot 2 on line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J-
on
line
line
C
y
A
K
Place letter
from
3 V? inches straight out
2 inches
Draft line
A
on
E
line
4 inches from dot 3. and
D
to dot
F
draft line
4.
to dot 4-
VEST— FRONT. A id B inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2Measure inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and place dot 3Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter E on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and % inch straight out and place Draft lines
'
y
^
y
dot 5. Draft from dot
4 to dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on line A. and measure down from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and place dot 6-
W on dot 5,
Place letter
Measure
inches
3
place dot 7Place letter
Place
F
and
straight
on dot 7 and
draft line
down
D
from
to dot 6dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and
draft to dot 6-
corner of square on dot
2 and measure straight out 2 inches more of chest measure and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y, inchet more than j£ of waist measure and place dot 9than
y
Place 10
3
B
the
N
letter
dot 9. Place letter
Measure
Q
on dot 9 and
on dot 7 and
inch
1
less
than
draft line
draft line
F
E
from dot
to the
end of
8
\\/> inches
to
line
the shoulder measure on line
below
E-
B
from dot 3» and
place dot 10.
Measure
1
y, inches straight
down from
dot
10 and
place dot \\.
Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8-
y
D
Place letter
Measure 1
y
on dot 13 and continue line S to dot on line S from dot 8 and take
2 inches in
H. a dart
y
inch and finish
inches in.
VEST— BACK. A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure inch on line A from line B. and place dot 2Measure of neck measure on line B» from line A» and place dot 3. Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. and place dot 8Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up Draft lines
y y
from dot 8-
Measure 2 inches more than B, and place dot 6-
y
of the arm's eye measure on
line
A
h"°m
line
—
.
Place the corner of square on dot
6 and measure straight out of the chest measure and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out than of waist measure and place dot 9-
than
Y
cl
B
H
Place letter line
I
Y
E
inches
mo*e
Y
inches
more
Y? inches below dot 9. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft
^ from
to dot
letter Hon dot 8 and
Q
Place letter
Measure
'
I
Y
inches
z
less
F
draft line
to the
end of
line
than the shoulder measure on line
E-
B
fr°
m
dot 3» and
place dot \Q.
Measure
%
inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot from dot 3 to dot H. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 133
H.
Q
Draft line
Y
Place the
of curve on dot ^ and
point
draft line
S
to dot
(Use
13-
the
round edge)
K
Place letter
on dot 13 and extend
line
S
to dot
\\.
NOTCHED COLLAR. i" cn n om tne e<^8 e ano en<* °^ goodsA and B Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 m eet line A 8 inches from dot 2Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/2 inches straight out and place
Y
Draft lines
'
-
Y
dot 5Place letter
M
E
Draft line
on dot 3 and
4
from dot
Place the corner of square so that the
2
a
2
and
and G-
P
draft lines
D
draft line
to dot 5-
to dot 51
inch mark will rest on lines
D
and E.
(See diagram).
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST.
— Around — Around — From Back — From Under Arm j.— — Hold Chest 1.
Waist
2.
the chest under the coat, just a smooth measure. waist under the coat easy, not too tight.
back of neck to waist line in front. neck to waist line. -Snug from under the arm to waist line. the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the
Front J.
joint in
joint in
4.
Shoulder 6.
point of shoulder.
Neck
7.
—-Around
the neck above the collar easy.
Arm' s .fy^.— Around
arm over the point of shoulder snug.
the
MEASURE FOR VEST. Chest Waist
34 30
Front
23
20
Back
Under Arm
.
Shoulder.
10 6
Neck Arm's Eye
18
. .
"
14
.
TROUSERS. FRONT. A
end and edge of goods. A. and place dot 2Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line BMeasure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. and place dot 3 Draft line C straight out from dot 3Draft lines
Measure
1
Y
and
B
V2 inch from the
inches on line
B
from
line
Measure
3 incnes straight out
from dot 3 and place dot 44 and draft line D to meet
Place the corner of square on dot
below line BMeasure up
line
A
8 inches
A
from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5from dot 5fr° m dot 3» and place Measure the distance from knee to bottom, up line line
E
Draft line
straight out
A
dot 6Draft line
p
straight out
from dot 6-
Measure y£ of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7 Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10-
6 from dot ^ to dot 10D on dot 10 and continue
Draft line
Place letter
line
G
to dot 8-
Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr° m li ,le D and place dot H. Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr° m dot 4 and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up. Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4-
BACK. Draft lines A and B '2 ncn fr om the edge and end of goods. lX Measure inches more than y£ of the waist measure on line B from line A, and place dot 2Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C fr om dot 3> and place dot 4Measure l± inch from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge even with line C» and draft '
1
line
D down
4 inches.
E
Draft line
y2
Measure
end of
from dot
4
inch
than the outside leg measure on line
less
to the
line
D-
m
A
fr°
A
from dot 6. and
dot 3. and
place dot 6-
P
Draft line
straight out
Measure y^ inch
less
from dot 6.
than
the inside leg measure
up
line
place dot 7-
G
Draft line
straight out
from dot 7-
Measure y£ inch less than the measure from knee from dot Q and place dot 8-
to
bottom on
H straight out from dot 82^ inches on line G fr° m dot
line
A
up
Draft line
Measure Measure
inches
3 yt
less
7> and place dot 9than 14 of hip measure on line G fr°
m
dot 9. and
place dot 10-
Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H. Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and place dot 12Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9Place the corner of square on dot 12, the edge on dot H, and draft line extending 3 inches above dot H. Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J. Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place letter
Measure
U
on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up. on line G from dot 10, and place dot 14from dot 2 to dot 14point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches
2 }4 inches in
K
Draft line Place
J
the
up from dot 14-
Measure place dot
2 inches
more than yi of knee measure on
line
H
from dot
1 1
and
15-
G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15measure on Measure 2 inch more than yi of the bottom 12 and place dot 16Place letter
y
line
F
from dot
8
.
Draft from dot
15 to dot 16inch out from dot
yx
Measure
16 on
on dot 17 and
S
Place letter
line
draft to
F
meet
and place dot 17L %/4 inches above dot 16-
line
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.
—Around of — Around knee width Knee J. — Around width Bottom — Around below Outside Leg Measure 5. — From — From Leg Measure — From knee bottom. Leg Measure the waist easy, not tight.
Waist I
Hips 2.
the fullest part
hips rather snug. desired.
the
the
desired.
the ankle the
4.
waist line the length desired.
Inside
crotch the length desirea.
6.
to
f.
MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. Waist Hips
30 3S 18
-
Knee Bottom
17
Outside Leg
41
Inside
Knee
Leg Bottom
31
to
1
SHIRT— FRONT. Use
the fold of goods for line A! j inch from the end of goods.
Draft line
B
mcn more
Measure
y? and place dot 2-
A
than y% of the neck measure on line
from
line B>
Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A? and place dot 3Place letter D on dot 2 an d draft line C to dot 3inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line Measure I B, and place dot 4Draft line H straight out, beginning 9 inches from dot 4Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr° m dot 4» and place dot 5Measure 1 ; inches down line A from line B. and place dot 6Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the short arm of square on line B. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E
y
%
to line
B-
E
on
L
Place letter
line
D
1
inches from dot
yi
6 and
draft line
meet
F
to
to
meet
line
6 inches from dot 7-
A
Place letter
on
line
B
l{
'
ncn
fr°
m
dot 3. and draft line
G
line
E
2 yi inches from line B-
Measure -,i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr° m line B. and place dot 9Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q, and place dot 10Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H. Place letter Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi, inch straight in and
M
place dot 12-
Place letter
D
Place letter
N
Measure from dot
on dot 12 and draft line on dot 12 and continue inch
y{>
less
than
S
to dot 5-
line
the distance
S
to dot
H.
between dots
4 and 5
straight oul
6 and
Measure out from dot
place dot 13y^ inches more than the distance between dots
I
8
an d place dot 14on dot 5 and draft line
Place letter
U
Place letter
Z
on dot 13 and continue
T
to
line
dot 13to dot 14.
T
6 and 13
straigh
Place
corner of square on
the
straight out
3^
inches
dot 15. Place letter
X
Place letter
H
than
less
on dot 15 and on dot 15 and
A
line
inch above dot 9> and Measure between dots 8 and 14 and place
]A
the distance
draft to dot 14-
draft to dot 9-
"
BACK. Use
the fold or goods for line
B
Draft line
,'/2
A-
inch from the end ot goods.
Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B» and place dot 2Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold of goods.
Measure it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot 5Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 2 3 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. and place dot 7Measure inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9- (Use the round I
1
edge).
H
Place letter
on dot 9 and continue
E to dot 4inch above dot
line
A
Place the corner of square on line
'
2 and measure
straight
out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10Place letter on dot 10, the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve.
T
Place letter
H
Place letter
F
on the end of line F and draft on dot 10 and draft to dot 2-
to dot 6.
YOKE. A
Draft line
Use
l /2 'nch from the edge of goods. the fold of goods for line B-
Measure yi inch and place dot 2-
less
than
y£ of the neck measure on
Measure the length of shoulder on Draft line
C
2
: }i
line
A
line
A
fr°
m
2ne B»
from dot 2, and place dot 3-
inches straight out from dot 3-
Measure 2 inches on line B from ne A» and place dot 4Measure l'2 inch more than y£ of neck measure straight out from dot 2 and li
place dot 5Place letter
(J
G
Place letter
on dot 4 and draft on dot 5 and draft
For an open back add y$ inch
line line
to
D E
to dot 5-
end of
to the
line
(J-
the distance given in the third instruction
for dot 2-
V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx
A:V\.*.<v
Sleeve f d.GA.wg''
SHIRT BAND.
^a<tvcL Draft lines
A
Measure Measure Measure
1
B yi inch from the edge and end of goods. inches on line from line A. and place dot 2-
and
' 1
2
]^ inches on
1
1
B B
-
from dot 2, and place dot 3inch more than y^ the neck measure on line trom line B» ana line
A
place dot 4-
Draft line
C
1
%. inches straight out from dot 4-
H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2letter H on the end of line C and draft line E to dot 3letter A on line C % inch in from line E and draft to
Place letter
Place Place
inches from line CPlace the corner of square on line
For open front add
i/^
E
%
inch from dot
inch from the end of line
(J-
3 and
meet
line
E
draft to dot
(See dotted Sines).
3
%
.
SHIRT SLEEVE. Use
the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line
B
Measure
3
™
c h from the end of goods. ^2 inches less than the hand measure on line
B
fr°
m
line
A» and
place dot 2-
Measure the length of sleeve on line A from line B. and place dot 3Measure inch more than the hand measure straight out from dot 3 1
ar>d
place dot 4-
Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3Draft line
D
Allow
inch above line
1/^
from dot 5
to dot 2-
C
f° r facing.
(See dotted lines)
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR
—Around —Around
Chest.
Neck.
—
SHIRT.
the chest, under the coat, take a smooth measure, not t5ght. the bare neck easy.
Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the and measure to the point of shoulder. From the joint in neck the length desired. Length. Shoulder.-
shirt,
— —From Hand. — Around Sleeve
the point of shoulder the length desired. the
hand
loose..
MEASURE FOR SHIRT. •
Chest
35
Neck
14
Shoulder
6
Length
35
Hand Sleeve 1-cngth.
;o .•
.
Jf.
Uknna
Pattern Co. THE LATEST
IMPORTED AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS
and
Crinoline
and AT PRICES MUCH
Patterns
Paper
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Patterns
Models LESS
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Cut from
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CO.
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7
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HOME TEACHER OF MILLINERY
Magazine
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This
PRACTICAL, STRICTLY ORIGINAL all
final
the
is
only
every
as
finishing
point,
JUNIOR TOILETTES World
book
we
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Institute,
and
is
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frames
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\
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of all
]
««««•«
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tailoring
« fashion magazine
in the
World.
BY X
SOPHIE KLUG drafting
system, but a
—
fully described
Price,
and
$i.oo.
illustrated.
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54
NY.
WEST
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of the
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\
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KLUG
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32 Pages
Illustrations
on every
No woman should
and
Sent postpaid on receipt of price.
S. 5W.
I
book containing
chapters of information and minute instructions
York.
r If your dealer has not got
Specimen Copy I
Room
Madame
«5*
and...
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or
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Millinery
$1.00
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Anyone
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making of wire is
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cannot is
Stock Sizes and Cut to Measure
26 East 22d St.
kind
Styles. This
Best Patterns in the
the
of
instructions, can readily acquire
of the hat or bonnet,
Melcher, the author,
With
publication
and following the
bright,
Millinery,
Costumes designed by AMERICA'S Leading Fashion Artists. Always used by Manufacturers to
Show Coming
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SPECIAL NOTICE It
a
is
criminal offence punishable by fine and
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Book
—
to
copy any part of our Instruc-
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—any person
us-
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We
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not permit any infringement upon our
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Patents and Copyrights, any one guilty will be
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We
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THE MAGIC TUCKER
Tucks without Creasing. Tucks
in Clusters
without measuring
Tucks woolen goods without Tucks
Box
ruffles
without measuring for
plaits silk
Tucks
by
first
Fits
any machine.
far the best tucker in the market.
PRICE
$J.0O
VIENNA INSTITUTE,
Call Printing Co.
*7 West 13th N b w
St. York
tuck.
and other goods without leaving crease in center of
in plaids.
Is
for clusters.
basting.
5
W.
14th St.
plait.
LiBKHKY uf CONGRESS
013 964 937
IT
IS
Q
AS SILENT AS THE TICK OF A WATCH
Cbe new.,.
Standard Rotary STANDARD GRAND" ROTARY j*
It
plished
is
by
system than can possibly be
this
makes both the
IT
IS
Ten minutes Our
is
One-third
very light, very rapid and very fascinating.
STANDARD
Shuttle
A NEW SYSTEM >
LOCK STITCH
TWO trial
done on and the
more work can be accom-
any of the old
style
machines.
The
CHAIN STITCH.
MACHINES IN ONE
convinces the
most
that
obstinate
the
Rotary
STANDARD the machine to buy. both the LOCK STITCH and the
the Correct Principle, and the
NEW DOMESTIC
also
makes
CHAIN STITCH. Parts and Needles for
all
Machines. STANDARD SHUTTLE
A NEW TUCK-FOLDER Especially designed for soft materials
of
all
kinds
Tucking from one-sixteenth to one-half inch and of any width of space desired. Adapted to all of the leading Sewing Machines. Price $1.50.
that
will not
crease.
CHAS.
W.
KATTELL, General Agent
DOMESTIC SEWIflG PGHlflE
3 tttest TELEPHONE
2534-18TB ST.
CO. and the
Fourteenth Write
STANDARD SEWING PGJlIJlE
Street,
for Catalogue.
Hew York
GO.