Usasystemofladie00spik

SHSSSSBEaESSSSHSSS

A UNIFORM SYSTEM FOR

Ladies^

and Geni^u^ Garments BY F,

fiPIKMAN

THE U. S. A.

SYSTEM OF

LADIES & GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS CUTTING. BY fFspikman.

The main feature helping towards perfection in

PUBLISHED

I

BY

garment-cutting

THE AUTHOR.

is

a perfectly

made system.

BUFFALO

N. Y.

U.S.A.

m

24

1918

©CI.A497448

l<^.^

j

h

copyright, may

1918,

By

FRINS SPIKMAN. BUFFALO, U.

S.

N. Y.

A.

PREFACE.

compounded cutting system

"|"he herein

will

give a better, clearer, a more complete

explanation of the numerous problems which the art of cutting embraces, brief vocabulary would be capable of desribing.

When we

call

"the gaps or unanswerd problems of authors and system-makers.") then, the

value of the system appears clearly upon the

something far the trade,

which

is

is

in

realized in the

it

lest satisfaction,

and most adequately

cutter of to day.

The system

is

system— resulting

ures—thus adding considerable this

in

fill

more

S.

A.

may be judged from

the accom-

and figures correspond with the constructiona equally correctness even for the most puzzling figlines

to the value

and render the system practical faultless. in

it— safe to rely upon — and to

reliable tool to the profession.

that class of customers whose aim

U.

The con-

days of competition.

the requirement of even the very exacting

indispensable to the progressive tailor

Buffalo, N. Y.

in this

book has been to make every point

act upon — to furnish a it

desire to produce

represents the kind of system which give ful-

perfectly balanced as

panying geometrical plane, whose

The aim of

The

compounding of a uniform cutting system for both sexes,

a feature to be appreciated, especially

lines of the

fore-ground.

advance of even the most pretentious cutting systems now before

tents of this book will give proof that

makes

my

how (which we

comprehensive and of which a contradictory nature those problems are;

may

then

will consider the fact

it is

who

to posses the

The unlimited usefulness

desires to secure the patronage of

ACME

in

ARTISTIC garments.

F.

Spikman.

THEOREM.

Balance the secret of cutting. tion lines

Above

is

the theorem of the system which in connec-

with the contents of this book desolves every question regarding cutting.

and marks used

as— neck-point,

in

this are corresponding with the pattern-drawings.

balance, disproportion etc. which have vexed the brightest minds, are

it

moves.

cannot move without moving of the joining back-part

will

in

form as head for or backward, stooping or erect

be preserved.

is

a equal weight

The so

called neck-point

Balance

desolved by the compounding of this geometrical plane.

on both sides of the centre of gravity round which

titude or

The

Problems

opposite direction. etc. in

Any

at-

any case equilibrium

Circumference of breast or bust has nothing to do with balance

that falls beyound the boundary lines of the theorem.

Balance correctly follows any

growth of waist as can be noticed by the different pattern drawings throughout the book. The waistline— represented by line 4— B— is the second bending in the body, and forms the platform of the bascule for the uppersection. It will be noticed that this system deals only with one section or solid for the upper-structure.

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES

Fig

To get the very best for

LADIES

results,

measure

all

short measurements for

MEN

over vest,

over tight fitting waist or blouse.

in Fig. 1 is measured from nape of neck at C to D. Natural waist length is measured from nape of neck at C to B. (Fig. 2.) Over-shoulder is measured from A or forearm-pitch over centre of shoulder to centre of back at D. Blade measure is measured from D at centre of back, close up under the arm to A. Strap measure is measured from A up to nape of neck at C. Bust or breast measure is taken all around the body, close up under the arms, and well up the shoulder blades. Tape must meet in front directly across fullest part of bust or chest. (The line E in Fig. 3 shows where this measurement is to be taken).

Waist measurement. Measure around the smallest part of the waist.

Hip measure is taken around fullest part of seat as shown bv line H.

Depth of scye as shown

SCALE OF PROPORTIONAL WAIST MEASURES, DEDUCED FROM

THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. The proportion

1/2

waist measure

is

one inch

/er-shoulder

less

than the over-shoulder measure.

D.B.

FROCK-COAT.

MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder

91/2 in.

D.B.

FROCK-COAT.

8

CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. MEASUREMENTS.

Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder

10

in.

CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY.

10

SACK-COAT.

S.B.

MEASUREMENTS. in.

9

Scye depth Natural waist length

163/4,,

Full length

291/2,,

Over-shoulder Blade measure

17

Rule

A

line

,,

11% Mark C one

B.

der below A. C to ural waist length.

D

C-B

C

nat-

to full length.

Place E Vs over-shoulder one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.

B

to

F

G

to

W

is

is

Square up and down from J to to

M

is

1/2

M

1/2

inch.

and L.

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. inch.

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1

%

inch or desired shoulder width.

depth above L. (0

falls in this

O

is

scye

case on M.) and O, than

between M measure from the centre of M O down

If there is difference

to

V

over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less y^ in.

1/2

F

X

Curve side seam from V through U and X. of a inch.

Hollow back seam Cut out the back. In cutting out the back pattern, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L, must be left on as it is required in making gorge

%

and shoulder of the fore part. It will be seen that a better shaping of the gorge can be made corresponding with the back.

Place the back pattern on the paper and continue the lines F and G. Make Y over-shoulder from W. Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure to X; place that quantity on Z, and from measure back to 19 - V2 seat measure plus

W

1

inch; (2 seams,)

is

placed 3 inches from Z. 1

to 2

,,

32

,,

37

,,

2.

10 is 2 inches from Mark 15 from star Vi waist meaSTAR. sure plus 1 inch. 4 fi-om F is over-shoulder plus 1 inch. (4 seams.)

T from B is Vi waist measure.

Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T; and square out from

over-shoulder from

Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is 1/2 inch BP is Va breast mea(2 seams) above J J. below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and

5

5.

is 1/^

BP

to 18, the

I is 1

inch

Mark

7,

breast measure plus 2

1/2

from

in.

18.

below Q; take out 1 to K between back and fore part side seams. Curve the side seam from V through 7, K and 19.

Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22.

Swing the back with point N on 8, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. V^ over-shoulder

inch at 7 and

%

from

U

;

crossing point of these two lines. line from A, through I locating a.

What [a] falls beyond 15 is the

9 is the

Rule the centre front

surplus in the front waist.

11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line

Mark

J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from

the centre of the shoulder

down

D

over

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-10.

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown.

Half of the surplus between 15 and a is token away by a dart from under the most prominent part of the chest the other half out on top of the lapel.

1/2

down from

36

Waist measure Seat measure

J to

114 inches.

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus

L

121/4 In.

â&#x20AC;&#x17E;

sixth over-shoul-

scye depth;

Strap measure Breast measure

and

3.

Sqaure up and Place star V2

Mark U.

from 2, 1 inch more than 22 Complete front and bottom to

3

is

from

style.

S.B.

SACK-COAT.

12

CORPULENT MAN'S

S.B.

MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth

SACK-COAT.

CORPULENT MAN'S

S. B.

SACK-COAT.

13

STOUT FIGURE

14

MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length

101/4 in.

Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure

THE BACK-PART. Rule

line

A

Mark C one

B.

der belowf A. C to ural waist length.

D

sixth over-shoul-

scye depth;

C

to

BB

C-B

nat-

full length.

B

to F is one inch.

Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line.

G

to

W

is

l'/4

inches.

Place J from E,

1/2

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

Square up and down from J

L

to

N

is

M

is

1/2

to

over-shoulder plus

midway between

M

and

M 1/2

and L. inch.

J.

Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch.

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, lines M-L,and P-Q.

in

the centre of the

Make U from F, i/^ over-shoulder less 1 from G is made V2 over-shoulder less

X

inch.

3^

in.

Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam of a in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting

%

or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,

and N-L must be

A-N

left on.

THE FORE-PART. Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist.

1 is placed 3 mches from Z. Square up and

W

down from

and 3.

Star is 1/2 ovei from STAR is 2 inches.

15 from STAR is Vi waist and 1 in.

4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.)

T from B is Vi waist measure.

Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5.

J to J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) .5 is V2 over-shoulder from .1.1. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams. above 1

shoulder from

to 2 2;

10

;

1

STOUT MAN'S

S. B.

SACK-COAT.

15

TALL FIGURE

16

WITH

SLOOPING SHOULDERS AND PROMINENT HIPS.

MEASUREM Scve depth Natural waist length

181/2..

Full length

323/4,.

Over-shoulder Blade measure

121/2,.

11

in.

173/4,.

THE BACK-PART. Rule

line

A

B.

Mark C one

der below A. C to ural waist length.

D

C-B nat-

BB full length.

Place E V3 over-shoulder to

to F is one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y-i ovp --shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.

B

G

to

W

is

114 inches.

Place J from E,

1/2

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

Square up and down from J to

L

to

N

is

M

is

1/2

M

and L.

M

and

1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.

Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 is made i/^ over- shoulder less

X from G

in

inch.

3^

in.

Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam of a in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting

%

or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,

A-N

,.

36

,,

421/2

..

is 1 in. (4 seams.)

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from JJ. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams.) above Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing J J. 6, 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. above 5.

BP is one sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back

seam over L and BP to I, — 1/2 breast measure and 3 in.

What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V^ waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 314 inches.

WHERE SEAT WAIST MORE THAN 2 IN. EXCEEDS, AND NO SEAM RUNS DOWN OVER THE HIPS, THE BACK PATTERN IS SHOVED BACK THE EXCEEDING AMOUNT less INCH (3/4 inch in this case.) FROM J TO J AND FROM L TO L.] A CASE LIKE THIS

1/2

1/2

Mark

THE FORE-PART.

W

7,

14 over-shoulder

below Q;

take out

1

and y^ in. from U to K. Measure the back from to X, place that quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and 1/2 in.

Curve the fore part side seam from V, through K and 19 to 13.

Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. inch at

7,

W

9 is the crossing point of these

Mark

left on.

Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 overshoulder and y^ waist.

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and

down from 1 to shoulder from 2;

in-

38

1/2

J.

Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch.

Q from D 14 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule fiom Q through P. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S'is V^ over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V

and N-L must be

123^

Waist measure Seat measure

[IN

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

midway between

Strap measure Breast measure

J to JJ

sixth over-shoul-

scye depth;

C

ENTS.

two

lines.

same quantity above 5, as N is aCurve the neck part and gorge from

11 the

bove J. C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the J E,

is

made from

line

J.

Apply the over-shoulder measure from the centre of the shoulder

down

D

over

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-lO.

seams.)

Curve the scye as indicated.

Complete to style.

The space, wich J and L being shoved back, must be taken out of the under arm or hip

Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on .1 and square out to ^.

with the understanding, that it runs down from the scye to the waist line; springing out in the pocket mouth.

2 and

10

Star is 1/2 overfrom star is 2 inches.

3.

from star is % waist and 1 4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 T from B is Vi waist measure.

15

;

in. in.

(4

cut;

parallel

TALL FIGURE WITH SLOOPING SHOULDERS

AND PROMINENT

HIPS.

18

SACK-COAT FOR

HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length

Over-shoulder Blade measure

8

in.

HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE.

STOOPING OR ROUND BACK FIGURES.

20

we meet in a great varity of form and attitudes— it important in those kind of figures to observe where the deviation or roundness is most remarkable; — the rest will be envolved by the system it self. It is a natural phenomeon that an round back furnishes a larger over-shoulder than should have been the case were the figure of a normal or erect attitude. (The dotted lines in Dia. illustrate the outline of upper structure for a figure having the same over-shoulder measure, but with a regular attitude. ) The enlarged over-shoulder measure widens the spaces E— J, and JJ— 5; and accordingly to this, it moves point 6 in a more forward position.

The longer scye depth provides a longer distance A— N, and this in connection with point 8, provides for a more shoved forward neck-part; it also with regard to 10 and C, performs a more bringing forward of the front of scye. The application of direct strap-measure restores the distances 5 -6 and L -J which for this fore-part shoulder is to large; — the direct strap measure lowers line A— 8 in parallel, but it must be understood that, although the length of line 17— C has to be shortened and also on the arm-side of fore part, the distance 17— D has to remain intact. The distance between the parallel lines on the centre of the shoulder must be divided equally and, on the blades, and on the shoulder; —where this dividing on the blades in the real sence is not an as easy matter as for a "Frock-coat," the quantity is added to back seam or crease; the other half is left on the shoulder which provides for a more close fitting neck-part and on arm-side.

In daily practice these figures

is

SLEEVES.

LADIES the

same

MEN'S SLEEVES

and in

Square out and down from

A A

D

to to

is

C

IVi is

are both

construction.

in.

D

B

to

A

is

C and

to

B.

over-shoulder.

14 over-shoulder.

through C to G, locating E.

Rule from

B

E

F

is

Vi

Place

G

as

to

over-shoulder.

Square out from F to much above F, as 12 tern

is

made from

H

8.

and

in

J.

the fore part pat-

(or,

from J

in

coats

where not for seams is allowed as usually not is done in "Ladies" coats.)

Mark

H

and J each one-sixth over-shoulder K is 1 inch; J to L the same.

From A to N is 1/2 in. more than the distance between 17 and Q in the coat pattern.

from

F. J to

Curve the sleeve head from A through H, G to L. Measure fore-armlength from E to B. At the length even if reaching below or above B, square out to O by E— B line.

Make B to O width of the bottom. From E to P is the difference between scye-depth and natural waist-length. ( Letter P is missing in this Dia. but her position will be

known

as

it is

out from P by

understood that

E B

line.

)

Q

is

squared

Make Q from

P,

same as from B. Chalk from L through Q to O; and from K to Q. Mark S V2 in- inside of R. Curve from A through S and B; add 1 inch the

beyond this for the top, and go wards for under sleeve.

1

inch in-

.

OVER-COAT.

22 The over-coat

Add. to scye depth

1/2

for over-shoulder

in.,

way

this is the best

measured over vest as

also

is

3/4 in.,

for blade

Breast— Waist— and Seat, each

correct measures.

to obtain

1 in.,

for stiaj)

1%

and

in.

loi

-

3 inches.

MEASUREMENTS. lU

Scye depth Natural waist length

17%

Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure

Rule

A

line

Mark C one

B.

der below A. C to ural waist length.

in.

41

,,

Waist measure

20

,,

Seat measure

13

,.

sixth over-shoulC-B nat-

D

scye depth;

C

to

BB

,,

full length.

Place E 1/3 over-shoulder one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.

B

to

F

G

to

W

is

is

11/4

inches.

over-shoulder plus

Place J from Square up and down from J E,

L

to

N

is

M

is

1/2

1/2

midway between

A

tc

over-shoulder plus

M

and

M

inch.

1/2

and L. inch.

1/2

J.

and N.

Connect inch.

P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less less 1 inch. over-shoulder D from Q Va Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is 1/4 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1

%

inch or desired shoulder width.

is

scye

depth above L.

Measure from the centre of

M

down

to V,

over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 34 in.

X from G is V2 over-shoulder. Curve the back 1/2

side

What

seam from 1/2

sure

is

excess

V

through

U

and

X

to 22.

seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist meacalled:— "excess."— In this case the is

23^ inches.

the excess from X. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7, and ^4 in. from U to K. Shape the fore part side-seam from V through

19

is

7,

made

K

W

13.

to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and 14 waist.

Square up and is placed 3 inches from Z. down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from Mark IB from STAR 1/4 waist meaSTAR.

From

1

and 19 to

Strap measure Breast measure

sure plus

1

.1,

'A

I

42 44

inch.

from F

4

T from B

is

'/2

over-shculder-

V4 waist measure.

Place the square with the long aim on 1, the

and

1 in.

is

corner resting on J and square out to 5 J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; S is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is V2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. 73 ;

BP is one above 5.

Rule from L ovei BP Measure from D at ihe back sea'u to 18. over L and BP to 18, the V2 breast measure

over-shoulder and V2 sixth breast b^low 5.

in-

plus 3 in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A. A-N

and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A testing on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines.

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over

Sway

the centre of the shoulder

down

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-10.

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown.

not a necessity to cut a V in top of lapd or to pleat over the under part;— as shown in this Dia. the broken line is lultdstraigth

It is

down from A to 15 on the waist-line.

Having shaped front and gorge, the broken line

may be

cut to 15; inoving that line with

15 holding in its place over to

1

in.

beyond

opens the lapel in an V which avoids working in with stay-tape. —Those who prefer to work up .the fronts, care must be used to have them worked shoit the just amount.

Make lower part of front, pai'allel with 2—1.

18, it

S.

B.

OVER COAT-

.

SLIP-ON.

24

MEASUREMENTS. 10

Scye depth Natural waist length

in.

17y4 44

Full length

Over-shoulder Blade measure

The same additions

as

given on

,,

,,

20

,,

13

,.

foregoing

page hold good for the different measures

in

this kind of coats.

Rule

line

A

Mark C one

B.

to

D

scye depth;

C

to

C

BB

C-B nat-

full length.

Place E Vs over-shoulder to F is one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V^ over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line.

B

G

to

W

is

1%

inches.

Place J from E, y^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

Square up and down from J tc

L

to

M

is

1/2

M

and L.

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

M and J. Connect A and N. inch.

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 N

is

14

Waist measure Seat measure

38

midway between

%

inch or desired shoulder width.

O

is

scye

depth above L.

To produce the

desired fulness on back and round hips, the blade measure has to undergo an increasing by way of space U K; which in this case amounts 2V2 in. while V2 seat measure has undergone 3 times that much which brings the "excess" up to IOV2 inches. In this case the scye dei)th is lowerd IV2 in. As will be observed, the front of scye remains intact as do all other fitting points; the only alteration this coat diagram has under gone is in its style.

X and 22 are located by ruling down from N through K, while the bottom curve to 22 is obtained by sweeping out with S as an pivot, from where the line S Q crosses the

42 44

length. 19 is made the excess from X. From U is ruled down through 19 to 13.

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z

sixth over-shoul-

ural waist length.

der below A.

Strap measure Breast measure

1

represents the different between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist.

Square up and is placed 3 inches from Z. down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from Mark 15 from star 14 waist meaSTAR. sure plus

1 inch.

from F

4

T from B

is

over-shoulder-

Vi waist measure.

Place the square with the long arm on T, the

and

1 in.

is

corner resting on J and square out to 5 is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. ;

JJ

Rule up from

4 thi-ough 5 to 6; placing 6, Va

above 5.

BP is one Rule from L over BP Measure from D at the back seam to 18. over L and BP to 18, the y2 breast measure over-shoulder and V2 sixth breast b3low 5.

in.

plus 3 in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N

and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C.

Sway

two same quantity above 5,

9 is the crossing point of these

Mark

11 the

lines.

as

N

is

a-

bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from

the centre of the shoulder ting 17, on the line C-10.

Curve the scye as indicated.

Complete to style.

down

D

over

to 17; loca-

SLIP-ON.

THE LOWER

26

figures in which one side or shoulder is lower than the other, there usually are (2) different eye -depths and also (two) over-shoulder meaThe lower side usually shows more sures. scye-depth and a larger over-shoulder.

The Diagram is constructed by a difference of one inch in scye depth the over-shoulder is increased the same quantity for that side.

The different measurements of course, need

SIDE.

each apart attention or two drawings. When one understands the construction of previous Diagrams, he cannot go astray with this one.

Special attention

the lapel, which side

which

is in

is

is

called to che

V

in

top of

only cut in for the higher

accordance to the given con-

structions with regard to broken line from

through

what

A

be noticed restoring equilibrium again with regard to top button.

1

thus,

will

V ESTS. Rule

line

A

B.

Mark C one

der below A. C to ural waist length.

E

Square to

to

F

C-B nat-

one inch.

is

1/3

Place J from E,

L

B

sixth over-shoul-

scye depth;

over-shoulder above D. Rule from through to F. Square out from E,H,F.

Place

E

D

uj)

M

is

1/2

over-shoulder plus

and down from J to 1/2

M

1/2

inch.

and L.

over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. inch.

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth or desired shoulwidth. is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V

%

V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.

Make U from B, 1/2 over-shoulder and IV2 in.

Mark 7 % over-shoulder below the scye-depth Curve the back from scye through U. to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and i/i waist.

4 from F is over-shoulder and V2 in. (2 seams) T from B is Vi waist measure. Z from 2 is 2^4 inches. Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2.

10 is 2 inches from STAR. Place the square line.

From B

with the long arm on T, the corner resting on and square out to r,. to .J.J is 1/2 in. .1

;

.1

seams.) 8 is V2 in. above JJ. n is V2 overshoulder from JJ. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and V2 in. above 5.

BP is one sixth breast b?low .5.

Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the (2

1/2 breast measure plus IV2 in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting

or tracing out the back, the jiiece C-A,

A-N

and N-L must be left ^m.

Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines.

Rule a straigth line from A at the cross line through 18.

Mark star Vi waist measure from 15; what 1.5 falls inside of this broken line can be taken out from under the most prominent part of chest. Apply opening and length; add V2 in. for over lap. Shape scye, side seam and bottom.

Take out V2 in. at 7 the other V2 in. is taken on the same level out of back-seam or by way of a V as indicated. For corpulent or stout waisted figures, square down by waist-line at 4 and also

by Jâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5 line, crossing the same point as desribed in SACK-COATS.

is

28

MILITARY TUNIC. MEASUREMENTS.

Scye depth

MILITARY TUNIC.

COLLARS.

30

With the pattern laying in the shoulder closed position, sweep from C through E. Mark F Vi over-shoulder below C. E from C depth of stand; G from F the same.

With the one arm of the square touching G and E, square out to D and extend that line from E to J is stand-depth, E— J leafMark of turn at K and chalk from G

lO J;

edge.

to K.

Mark H from G

as

much

as

G

is

F; — fold the lapel to K, and trace from

Shape back-side according

H.

from

L

to

to style.

In military collars to provide for more length on shoulders to avoid to much stretching, the back line J — D is squared out by F— E. Apply length F— Y from G to K. L is Vi inabove K. Complete as indicated.

MILITARY-OVERCOAT.

A

is

B

,,

BB is ,,

E

,,

one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. V3 over-shoulder above D.

F

,,

1

is

V2 over-shoulder

,,

located by an square line ruled

E is

JJ I

L

M N

is

P

,,

,,

,,

Q R

,.

S

,,

..

T

,,

U

,,

W

below F.

down from

by J and E. and

inch (4 seams.)

1/2

from

in.

from

E.

J.

breast plus 3 inches from D. squared down from J by J and E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L. in. from E. V2 over-shoulder less V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. Vi over-shoulder above Q. 14 over-shoulder above R. Vi waist from B. V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F.

is is 1/2 ,,

(2 seams.) above JJ. the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.

8

is 1/2 in-

9

is

from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J J as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 10

is

2 inches

11

,,

as

16

,,

17

,,

IVi

to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures.

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi-

cates the deviations in the up)per structure of shoulders neck and blades.

in.

W

W

the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from

D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, included "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have

%

from G. X ,, made Vi seat from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and 14 waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2.

BP is one sixth breast below 5.

1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by and 1.

3 ,, squared down by and 1.

4 ,, over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder is

is

inch from B.

V^ over-shoulder

is 1

is

7

D

J

V3 over-shoulder and V^ inch above 5.

Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part

6

C

G H

from J J.

one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full length from C.

Apply strap measure up from 17

to C, without addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam.

In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.

19

is

V^ seat less

back quantity W-X, from

Z.

BD

TROUSERS.

32

RIDING BREECHES.

CORPULENT MAN'S TROUSERS.

Outside length

431/2 in-

Inseam Waist

32

,,

49

,,

Seat

50

,,

Knee Bottom

221/2

,,

18

,,

Square out and down from

A (

to

B

is

A— C

Vi seat;

A

to

B and

C.

out-side length;

C—

in-seam; E is Vfe proportion waist above D. 1/2 proportion waist is adequate to over-shoul-

H is midway G and B. Mark from C as much as H is from A; draw a line from H to I locating N. C to L is % waist. Raise BC as much above L, as L is from B. Square down from B to J by A — Mark K Vfe seat out from J; curve fly- front as indicated from BC to K. Make M and O Vi knee each from N; P and Q each Vi bottom less Vi inch from I. Shape side seam from a i/j inch above G through E and O to Q; also in-seam from K, through M to P. Take out der, less 1 inch.)

I

V2 inch for dress.

THE BACK-PART. Extend the

Mark R Square

lines

A-B,

E,

M-0

and

P-Q.

Vi proportion waist above J. to S by J-B. S from R, out from

R

is

the difference between 14 proportion waist, and Vi seat plus V2 in. Mark T from S, V4

seat and one inch, plus distance B, L. Place the square with one arm touching J and S, the other resting on T and square out; this will locate U. Measure waist from L to G and T to U and take out the surplus (that is what that measure the waist measure more than 1 inch exceeeds;) in a V as indicated.

Mark from V 14 seat plus 2 inches; X from K is 1 inch; Y from M and Z from O, each

W

V^ inch. 1

from

P,

and 2 from Q, each

1 in.

REGULAR PANTS.

TROUSERS.

33

LADIES' SEMI FITTING

34

COAT

WITH FRENCH SEAM. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length

71/2

Full length

29

Over-shoulder Blade measure

10%

Rule

line

A

B.

Strap measure Breast measure

15

Waist measure Seat measure

16

Mark C one

der below A. C to ural waist length.

sixth over-shoul.

D

scye depth;

C

to

BB

C-B nat-

full length.

one inch.

Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.

B

to

F

G

to

W

is

is

IVi inches.

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch.

Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

N

is

midway between

M

and

J.

Connect A and N. P from E is V^ over-shoulder less inch.

Q from I) 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1

%

inch or desired shoulder width.

depth above L. Measure from the centre of

M

O

is

down

scye

to V,

V2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.

Make

20 to style or taste; (in this case 20

in

is

halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoulder from B, X from a trifle more.)

Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and

W

X

to bottom. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches

from 21 to 23.

The hip or seat measure must be divided between and Z. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over-

W

11%

W

shoulder and Vi waist.

What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V2 waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches.

In this case HI is made V4 seat from W. KL is made the excess from HI. Place the distance X-W on Z, and make 19, Vi seat measure less the excess.

in.

38

,,

29

,,

37

..

Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 13.

Curve also down from scye through HI and KL. 1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder.

T from B is 14 waist measure.

Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5.

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth bust b^low 5.

Rule from L over BP to 18.

Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the '/2 breast measure plus 2 in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N ;

and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A res. ting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines.

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line

Sway

J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from

the centre of the shoulder

down

D

over

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-10.

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown.

Rule a straight through 18 to

line 3;

from

A

at the cross line

the distance which this on

%

of it the waistline falls beyond 15, is for taken out of bust seam. The waistline runs parallel with the line L — BP. Mark 26 1 in.

more below 4 as BB is from B. Add for overlap and shape front and bottom.

(See article for more details on page 47.)

LADIES' SEMI-FITTING

COAT WITH FRENCH SEAM.

)

36 CLOSE FITTING COAT

STOUT

for

LADIES' FIGURES.

MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length

16

Full length

31

Over-shoulder Blade measure

121/4

Rule

line

A

Mark C one

B.

to

F

G

to

W

scye depth;

C

to

BB

C-B nat-

full length.

1

one inch.

Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E. H,F and G by E-G line. is

is

114 inches.

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch.

N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less "^/^ inch.

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width.

O

is

scye

depth above L.

Measure from the centre of V^ over-shoulder less

'/2

M O down

to V,

inch; locating V, in

lines M-L,and P-Q. 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20

the centre of the

Make

W

X

2S)\

from

The

bottom. Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder betake out 1 inch at 7, and I14 inches

to

21 to 23.

tween

W

W

and

Y

must be divided

be-

What sure

'/2

is

is

seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist meacalled:— "excess. "— In this case the

exf'ess is 7 inches.

HI is made '/i over-shoulder from G. KL is made the difference between sea" and 14 waist from HI. Make hip lines the excess apart, less the distance HI, KL. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has <^() fall on X, In this case

%

Curve from 20 through

,.

36

.,

50

..

placed 2 inches from Z.

and

Sqaure up and

Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder.

T from B is Vi waist measure.

Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5.

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder 1

to 2

3.

;

above 5. BP is one sixth bust b3low 5.

Rule from L over BP to 18.

Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on.

Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. is

the crossing point of these two lines.

11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over

Mark

down

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-10.

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points

Z.

over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and 14 waist. to

47

down from scye through HI and

the centre of the shoulder

hip or seat measure

From

is

also

down from

9 is

halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoulder from B, X from a trifle more.

Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and low

Curve KL.

sixth over-shoul.

D

127/8 in-

Waist measure Seat measure

18

der below A. C to ural waist length.

B

Strap measure Breast measure

81/4

7.

2-!

nnd 19

to

V.\.

as shown.

Rule a straight through 18 to line;

line 1 !,

the distance

from

A

locating

at the cross line

A

on the waist-

15— A determines the

%

sur-

taken out of the first bust-seam the rest Va, is token out from C to D— the top of this being located squaring out by the centre front-line over BP— on this square the front-piece was Place the width of made V4 over-shoulder. plus of front waist;

front- piece, (distance

of this

is

from centre-line

to E.)

behind 1, in this case less two inches which is token out of the second space. ( AlihaheMcaiy d 'sription on page 45.)

CLOSE FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE.

)

)

COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES' FIGURE.

38

MEASUREMENTS. 7%

Scye depth Natural waist length

14

Full length

36

Over-shoulder Blade measure

Rule

line

A

in.

Waist measure Seat measure

161/2

Mark C one

B.

scye depth;

C

to

BB

C-B

nat-

is

11/4

down from

inches.

Place J from E,

i/^

over-shoulder plus

Square up and down from J to

L

to

N

is

M

is

1/^

over-shoulder plus

midway between

M

and

M 1/2

inch.

1/2

and L. inch.

J.

Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3/j inch.

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch.

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line.

R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is V^ overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width.

O

is

scye

depth above L.

Measure from the centre of

M O down

to V,

over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.

in

1/2

Make

shoulder from B,

Curve from

from D; X from

is

21 one sixth over-

W

a trifle more.

A-N down through

20, 21 and bottom. Mark 7, y^ over-shoulder below 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches

X

line

to

from 21 to 23.

The hip or seat measure must be divided tween

W

W and Z.

What

1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches.

In this case HI is made 14 seat and 1 in. from

KL

made

the difference between Vi seat and Vi waist from HI. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting (i.

is

44

..

and

to 2

1

Sqaure up and Place star i^ 2 inches from

3.

;

above 5. BP is one sixth bust b?low 5.

Rule from L over BP to 18.

Measure from D at the back seam over L and

BP

to 18, the

1/2

breast measure plus 2

in.

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting

A-N

or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,

and N-L must be left ,;n.

Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6.

With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C.

two same quantity above 5,

9 is the crossing point of these 11 the

lines.

N

as

is

a-

bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11.

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from the centre of the shoulder

down

D

over

to 17; loca-

ting 17, on the line C-10. be-

to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist.

From

.,

over-shoulder from 2. 10 is STAR. Mark 15 from STAR 14 waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder.

T from B is 14 waist measure.

Place the square with the long arm on T. the corner resting on J and square out to 5.

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder

Mark

20 to style or taste; (in this case 20

14 over-shoulder

placed 2 inches from Z.

is

1

full length.

to F is one inch.

Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.

W

,.

36

KL.

sixth over-shoul-

D

B

to

121/4 in.

45

111/2

der below A. C to ural waist length.

G

Strap measure Breast measure

round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has to fall on X, Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 1.^.

Curve also down from scye through HI and

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown.

Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through 18 to line;

3,

locating 15 on the waist-

what the distance 15— STAR— exceeds and

14 waist

of the bust

inch

1

waist-line runs

the rest

I/3,

is

for

% of

seam on the is

it

taken out

waist-line;

parallel with

line

(

the

L — BP.

gathered into fulness, plaited

Mark 26 1 inch more below 4 as BB is below B. Having obtained the line to 26, corpulency must be dealt with in same way as in men's coats that's to say. square down by natural waist-line and thereafter, crossing the same pidnt ;it the waist-line by or cut out.

.1

.')

lint'.

COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES FIGURE.

.

LADIES LONG LOOSE-FITTING COAT.

40

for serve as a example for construction of all loose-fitting coats as well out at 7. taken inch of the space 1 called to is attention special Men's as Ladies'-and — Though it may look strange for a loose fitting coat to take any out at that part, it scye and denevertheless this, is necessary if a good fitting coat round neck, shoulders, in putting the whole neck and sired back-effect is wanted ;-omitting this would result (Balmacaan-effect) would shoulder part in disorder, while also the so much desired of hot iron after the stay on the hips; -taking out the space and stretching by meams the same happens to the shoulder-blades; below back to flare the transfers cut, is coat — As one will see, the instructions for this are the same as for the regular

This Dia.

may

fore part. over K is cut, opened up the desired coats afterward the dotted line marked from D and a piece is pasted under neath. amount, say two inches- on the line

N

L—

is

B

,,

one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C.

A

BE C

,,

one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vs over-shoulder above D.

D

,,

1

,,

E F

G H

inch

is 1/2 ,,

E by

7

9

over-shoulder below F.

V2 over-shoulder

and

in-

from E.

is

K

the desired fulness from L. (In this L to K is made 2 in.) rule as

1/2

made

shown

per broken line from N through K, before cutting out the back pattern this line is cut from bottom to N thereafter opened the desired quantity and a piece of paper being

pated or pinned underneath of it.

Reshape scye and bottom.

L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 i"ch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L. in. from E. 1/2 over-shoulder less Q ,, Vz over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, 14 over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vs over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. X ,, made Vi seat from G. V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of ,,

P

%

,,

O, less

W

1V4

1/2

1.

through which the neck circle

is

curved.

from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is Vi waist and 1 inch from STAR. is

16

,,

17

,

,

2 inches

the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from

D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures.

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indicates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades.

18 19

is is

V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. V2 seat less back quantity W-X,

and hip

excess from Z.

M-

22

much from T, as BB is from B and down from T over X. ruled down from A in the shoulder closed

is

as

ruled straight

in.

from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and Vi waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2.

BP is one sixth breast below 5. is 2 inches from Z. 1 and 1. ,. squared up by 2 is

and

,

10

J and E.

W

over-shoulder from F. ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder from J is 1/3 over-shoulder above 5. is Vi over-shoulder below L. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part, is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C

down from

J

is

6

from B.

located by an square line ruled

squared down by

,, ,

5

length from C.

is full

is

3 4

in.

W

8 is

position through

I, and after this centre-line cut from top to I, the lower part must be pleated over, to make the centre-line run

is

2—1 line and which opens the top into a V. -As will be understood, this Y may be cut from any place of neck-circle or shoulder.

parallel with

LADIES LONG LOOSE FITTING COAT.

THE

42

SKIRT.

MEASUREMENTS. Front length

Hip Back

38

in.

SKIRT.

J

X

ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION

44

DIA.

A

is

B

,,

BB C

is full

,, ,,

1

,,

inch from B.

FF is fashion waist length from G is y^ over-shoulder below F.

H

,,

I

down from

midway

J and

most

M

and connected with A.

scye depth above L. t* ., V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. Q ,, V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, Vi over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vfe over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. U ,, V4 over-shoulder less V2 in- from 23 or to taste.

over-shoulder below the centre of M-

V

is 1/2

W

0, less 1/2 ii. is 114 in. from G. ,,

a trifle

more than

Vfe

over-shoulder from

W.

Y

is

Z

,,

over-shoulder from W. the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 1.

BP is V3 breast below 5.

1 is 3 inches from Z. and 1.

2 ,. squared up by and 1.

3 ,, squared down by 4 ,, over-shoulder and 1 inch from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder

W

W

from J J. 6

is

from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. much from 8, as the back edge on line J-E is made from J. 2 inches

as as

,,

13

a

is

little

more from 27 than

BB

is

from

FF.

,,

X

,,

J and E.

pushed forward place. is V2 breast and 3 inches from D. I J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. J J is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch above L. is

is

11

the

locates the centre breast point at the

N

10 12

C.

located by an square line ruled

E by

PAGf:

7

length from C.

one sixtn over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vs over-shoulder above D.

FROCK-COAT.

is y^, ovei -shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and side body.

8 is 1/2 inch above JJ and the adjuvant of N. 9 is the ciossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.

one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C.

is

D E F

ON

D.B.

of

V3 over-shoulder

and V2 inch above

5.

14

is

made

15

is

16

,,

17

D

3 inches from 3, l^ waist and 1 inch from

STAR.

the centre point of the shoulder. ,, located by the direct strap measure from when the back is laid in the shoulder clo-

sed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures.

18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 ,, V2 seat and V2 in, less the back quantity from Z.

20

,,

midway Q and H.

from B. from 21.

24 ,, a seam below fashion waist line.

25 ,, V2 inch above fashion waist line.

26 ,, 11/2 in. below fashion ,, ,, 27 ,, the difference between 14 waist and Vi seat above 24.

Providing for seams the side body is curved from 1/2 in. above R to 20.

21

,,

V^ over-shoulder

23

,,

11/4 in.

THE LAPEL. squared up by the seat line touching in all cases point L 29-30 is equal to the fore part.

29

line to 31 is

made

2Vi inches above 30.

31

is

32

,,

,,

11/2

..

33

,,

,,

3

,,

.,

L

34

,,

,,

21/4

,,

,,

29.

from

31.

ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION

45

CLOSE-FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. DIA.ON PAGE

A

is

B

,,

BB

one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full

is

D E

,,

one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Va over-shoulder above D.

F

,,

1

G

is y-i

H

,,

,,

inch

is

L

,,

M

,,

N

is

P

.T

,.

Q R S

..

V2 over-shoulder less V^ over-shoulder less

.,

!4 over-shoulder

,,

V^ over-shoulder

V

V2 over-shoulder O, less V2 i"-

% 1

in. in.

from G. over-shoulder from

shoulder seam.

W.

where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.

In cases

the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. ,,

2

,.

.3

..

5

17 to C. without addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of

1 in. from 23. below the centre of M-

STAR is V2 over-shoulder from BP is one sixth breast below 5.

4

Apply strap measure up from

waist from B.

,, ,,

from squared up by

6

is

7

is

18

2.

19

Z.

W

and 1. and 1. over-shoulder from F. squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder squared down by

from

.,

cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades.

V^ over-shoulder less

2 inches

the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the up,,

to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures.

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi-

is 11/4 in.

is

as as

or backward, large or flat blades etc". have

from E. from D.

above Q. above R.

is

is

2 inches

per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for

and V^ in. from E. squared down from J by J and E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L.

V2 over-shoulder

,,1/4

1

down from

E.

„

Z

,,

over-shoulder below F.

located by an square line ruled

T

Y

is

11

17

U

W

10

16

from B.

E by J and J

from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ., much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR.

length from C.

C

37

W

J.

Va over-shoulder above 5.

14 over-shoulder below 20. 1 inch

is

taken

out at 7 between back and side-piece.

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S. 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.

is

is

^2 breast plus 2 inches from D. V2 seat less back quantity W-X,

excess from Z. 23 is IVi inches from 21.

KL is made the difference between

and hip

Vi

seat

and V^ waist.

15-A this distance indicates the surplus in the of it, is taken out between front waist; front-piece and B, the rest from C to D. E — 1 on the seat-line W-1, the distance frorn centre line to 1 is token out between fiontpiece and fore-part, less 2 inches; this 2 in. being token out of the second bust-seam.

%

ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION

46

FOR

S.B.

SACK-COAT.

DIA.

A

is

B

,,

BB C

is

D

,,

E

,,

ON PAGE

one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full length from C.

above

one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vb over-shoulder above D.

F â&#x20AC;&#x17E;

1

G H

14 over-shoulder

inch from B.

Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part.

8

above J J. the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.

is

,,

Q R

..

Vz over-shoulder less 3^ in.

Vi over-shoulder less 1 in.

,,

V4 over-shoulder

S

,,

T

,,

U V

is

,,

is

from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, much from 8, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is y^ waist and 1 inch from STAR.

10

is

11

,,

16

,,

17

,,

V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. V2 over-shoulder below the centre of

W

1/2

is 11/4 in. ,,

from W.

is

,,

where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.

18

breast plus 2 inches from D. seat less back quantity W-X, and hip

is 1/2

19

is 1/2

excess from Z. a

is

located by ruling

down from A through

I.

15-a; this distance indicates the surplus in the

squared by

T and

J and Vi over-shoulder

from JJ. is

shoulder seam.

In cases

W

F.

6

out addition; raise or lower the line A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of

M-

over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V^ waist from Y. STAR is Vi over-shoulder from 2.

BP is one sixth breast below 5.

1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by and 1.

3 ,, squared down by and 1.

4 plus 1 in. (4 seams.) from ,, over-shoulder 5

the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from

to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are

from G.

W

as as

D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc ".have

in-

V2 over-shoulder less V2 i"-

2 inches

being determined by the direct measures.

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indicates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades.

Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with-

above Q. 14 over-shoulder above R. 14 waist from B.

O, less

X Y

from E. from D.

Vi inch (2 seams;)

is

%

P

5.

7

9

below F. ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. is 1 inch from 18.

I J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. JJ is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. in. from U. K is L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, Vi over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. is

11

V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch (2 seams;)

%

of it is taken out on top of front waist; the rest from under the most promilapel;

nent part of the chest.

)

47

PRODUCING DIFFERENT STYLES OF

GARMENTS

by

A STANDARD PATTERN.

(continued from page

When

I

34.

say: "This are the only models a cut-

needs to understand", many cutter no doubt, will be surprised looking at the great varity of styles which fashion shows and creates; but bear in mind that styles are produced ter

by a foundation model and anything as pleats, anything which appeares in fashion, is fancy made up out of a plain model.

To do this needs a little artistic skill.

The coat with —French-seam,— and what can be accomplished by it, should be thoroughly studied in every detail. With seams running down over blades, bust and hips, it's adaptable for any form of figure and for all sizesMany experienced cutter uses this to construct by its outlines nearly every style; for instance —if pleats are being wanted,— he folds pleats ready cuts the pattern where they are wanted and pleat or pleats are pasted in. The same is done with flare, fullness etc. but fitting points must be preserved; for instance— the one inch taken out at 7, may not be neglected; as this would enfeeble fitting points round neck, scye and shoulders; diagrams show different positi^ ons and means in which this inch can be taken out. To use this as a foundation model is a far faster and an safe way. — In Ladies' figures it must however not be omitted we meet just as well corpulency as in Mens' figures and even as in those, if close or smoot hanging fronts below the waistline are desired, the surplus of material must be taken away by same means as described for stout and corpulent figures. fullness, flat e, or

Quarter of an inch seams are allowed for Men garments, Ladi'es garments are nett.

all

CONTENTS. Theorem

How

of the system

to take

page

measuies

3

4

D. B. Frock-coat

6

Corpulent Man's Cut-away

8

S.B. Sack-coat

10

Corpulent Man's Sack-coat

12

Stout Man's Sack-coat

14

Tall Figure with slooping shoulders

16

High siiouldered Figure

18

Stooping Figure

20

Sleeves

20

Man's Over-coat

22

Man's Top-coat

24

The Lower

26

side

Vests

26

Military Tunick

28

Collars

30

Military Burnoose

30

Trousers

32

Ladies-coat with French-seam

34

Close Fitting coat for Stout Lady

36

Corpulent Ladies coat with large bust

38

Ladies long loose-fitting coat

40

Skirt

42

Alphabetical desription for Frock-coat ,, ,,

,,

,,

Ladies coat

,,

,,

Sack-coat

44

45 46

Producing different styles by a regular style pattern

47

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Hill

I

013 973 182 7

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