SHSSSSBEaESSSSHSSS
A UNIFORM SYSTEM FOR
Ladies^
and Geni^u^ Garments BY F,
fiPIKMAN
THE U. S. A.
SYSTEM OF
LADIES & GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS CUTTING. BY fFspikman.
The main feature helping towards perfection in
PUBLISHED
I
BY
garment-cutting
THE AUTHOR.
is
a perfectly
made system.
BUFFALO
N. Y.
U.S.A.
m
24
1918
©CI.A497448
l<^.^
j
h
copyright, may
1918,
By
FRINS SPIKMAN. BUFFALO, U.
S.
N. Y.
A.
PREFACE.
compounded cutting system
"|"he herein
will
give a better, clearer, a more complete
explanation of the numerous problems which the art of cutting embraces, brief vocabulary would be capable of desribing.
When we
call
"the gaps or unanswerd problems of authors and system-makers.") then, the
value of the system appears clearly upon the
something far the trade,
which
is
is
in
realized in the
it
lest satisfaction,
and most adequately
cutter of to day.
The system
is
system— resulting
ures—thus adding considerable this
in
fill
more
S.
A.
may be judged from
the accom-
and figures correspond with the constructiona equally correctness even for the most puzzling figlines
to the value
and render the system practical faultless. in
it— safe to rely upon — and to
reliable tool to the profession.
that class of customers whose aim
U.
The con-
days of competition.
the requirement of even the very exacting
indispensable to the progressive tailor
Buffalo, N. Y.
in this
book has been to make every point
act upon — to furnish a it
desire to produce
represents the kind of system which give ful-
perfectly balanced as
panying geometrical plane, whose
The aim of
The
compounding of a uniform cutting system for both sexes,
a feature to be appreciated, especially
lines of the
fore-ground.
advance of even the most pretentious cutting systems now before
tents of this book will give proof that
makes
my
how (which we
comprehensive and of which a contradictory nature those problems are;
may
then
will consider the fact
it is
who
to posses the
The unlimited usefulness
desires to secure the patronage of
ACME
in
ARTISTIC garments. F.
Spikman.
THEOREM.
Balance the secret of cutting. tion lines
Above
is
the theorem of the system which in connec-
with the contents of this book desolves every question regarding cutting.
and marks used
as— neck-point,
in
this are corresponding with the pattern-drawings.
balance, disproportion etc. which have vexed the brightest minds, are
it
moves.
cannot move without moving of the joining back-part
will
in
form as head for or backward, stooping or erect
be preserved.
is
a equal weight
The so
called neck-point
Balance
desolved by the compounding of this geometrical plane.
on both sides of the centre of gravity round which
titude or
The
Problems
opposite direction. etc. in
Any
at-
any case equilibrium
Circumference of breast or bust has nothing to do with balance
that falls beyound the boundary lines of the theorem.
Balance correctly follows any
growth of waist as can be noticed by the different pattern drawings throughout the book. The waistline— represented by line 4— B— is the second bending in the body, and forms the platform of the bascule for the uppersection. It will be noticed that this system deals only with one section or solid for the upper-structure.
HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES
Fig
To get the very best for
LADIES
results,
measure
all
short measurements for
MEN
over vest,
over tight fitting waist or blouse.
in Fig. 1 is measured from nape of neck at C to D. Natural waist length is measured from nape of neck at C to B. (Fig. 2.) Over-shoulder is measured from A or forearm-pitch over centre of shoulder to centre of back at D. Blade measure is measured from D at centre of back, close up under the arm to A. Strap measure is measured from A up to nape of neck at C. Bust or breast measure is taken all around the body, close up under the arms, and well up the shoulder blades. Tape must meet in front directly across fullest part of bust or chest. (The line E in Fig. 3 shows where this measurement is to be taken). Waist measurement. Measure around the smallest part of the waist. Hip measure is taken around fullest part of seat as shown bv line H.
Depth of scye as shown
SCALE OF PROPORTIONAL WAIST MEASURES, DEDUCED FROM
THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. The proportion
1/2
waist measure
is
one inch
/er-shoulder
less
than the over-shoulder measure.
D.B.
FROCK-COAT.
MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder
91/2 in.
D.B.
FROCK-COAT.
8
CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. MEASUREMENTS.
Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder
10
in.
CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY.
10
SACK-COAT.
S.B.
MEASUREMENTS. in.
9
Scye depth Natural waist length
163/4,,
Full length
291/2,,
Over-shoulder Blade measure
17
Rule
A
line
,,
11% Mark C one
B.
der below A. C to ural waist length.
D
C-B
C
nat-
to full length.
Place E Vs over-shoulder one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.
B
to
F
G
to
W
is
is
Square up and down from J to to
M
is
1/2
M
1/2
inch.
and L.
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. inch. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1
%
inch or desired shoulder width.
depth above L. (0
falls in this
O
is
scye
case on M.) and O, than
between M measure from the centre of M O down
If there is difference
to
V
over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less y^ in. 1/2
F
X
Curve side seam from V through U and X. of a inch. Hollow back seam Cut out the back. In cutting out the back pattern, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L, must be left on as it is required in making gorge
%
and shoulder of the fore part. It will be seen that a better shaping of the gorge can be made corresponding with the back. Place the back pattern on the paper and continue the lines F and G. Make Y over-shoulder from W. Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure to X; place that quantity on Z, and from measure back to 19 - V2 seat measure plus
W
1
inch; (2 seams,)
is
placed 3 inches from Z. 1
to 2
,,
32
,,
37
,,
2. 10 is 2 inches from Mark 15 from star Vi waist meaSTAR. sure plus 1 inch. 4 fi-om F is over-shoulder plus 1 inch. (4 seams.) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T; and square out from
over-shoulder from
Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is 1/2 inch BP is Va breast mea(2 seams) above J J. below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and
5
5.
is 1/^
BP
to 18, the
I is 1
inch
Mark
7,
breast measure plus 2
1/2
from
in.
18.
below Q; take out 1 to K between back and fore part side seams. Curve the side seam from V through 7, K and 19. Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22. Swing the back with point N on 8, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. V^ over-shoulder
inch at 7 and
%
from
U
;
crossing point of these two lines. line from A, through I locating a. What [a] falls beyond 15 is the
9 is the
Rule the centre front
surplus in the front waist. 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line
Mark
J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from
the centre of the shoulder
down
D
over
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-10.
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Half of the surplus between 15 and a is token away by a dart from under the most prominent part of the chest the other half out on top of the lapel.
1/2
down from
36
Waist measure Seat measure
J to
114 inches.
Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus
L
121/4 In.
â&#x20AC;&#x17E;
sixth over-shoul-
scye depth;
Strap measure Breast measure
and
3.
Sqaure up and Place star V2
Mark U.
from 2, 1 inch more than 22 Complete front and bottom to
3
is
from
style.
S.B.
SACK-COAT.
12
CORPULENT MAN'S
S.B.
MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth
SACK-COAT.
CORPULENT MAN'S
S. B.
SACK-COAT.
13
STOUT FIGURE
14
MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length
101/4 in.
Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure
THE BACK-PART. Rule
line
A
Mark C one
B.
der belowf A. C to ural waist length.
D
sixth over-shoul-
scye depth;
C
to
BB
C-B
nat-
full length.
B
to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line.
G
to
W
is
l'/4
inches.
Place J from E,
1/2
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
Square up and down from J
L
to
N
is
M
is
1/2
to
over-shoulder plus
midway between
M
and
M 1/2
and L. inch.
J.
Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, lines M-L,and P-Q.
in
the centre of the
Make U from F, i/^ over-shoulder less 1 from G is made V2 over-shoulder less
X
inch.
3^
in.
Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam of a in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting
%
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,
and N-L must be
A-N
left on.
THE FORE-PART. Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist. 1 is placed 3 mches from Z. Square up and
W
down from
and 3. Star is 1/2 ovei from STAR is 2 inches. 15 from STAR is Vi waist and 1 in. 4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5. J to J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) .5 is V2 over-shoulder from .1.1. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams. above 1
shoulder from
to 2 2;
10
;
1
STOUT MAN'S
S. B.
SACK-COAT.
15
TALL FIGURE
16
WITH
SLOOPING SHOULDERS AND PROMINENT HIPS.
MEASUREM Scve depth Natural waist length
181/2..
Full length
323/4,.
Over-shoulder Blade measure
121/2,.
11
in.
173/4,.
THE BACK-PART. Rule
line
A
B.
Mark C one
der below A. C to ural waist length.
D
C-B nat-
BB full length. Place E V3 over-shoulder to
to F is one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y-i ovp --shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.
B
G
to
W
is
114 inches.
Place J from E,
1/2
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
Square up and down from J to
L
to
N
is
M
is
1/2
M
and L.
M
and
1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.
Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 is made i/^ over- shoulder less
X from G
in
inch.
3^
in.
Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam of a in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting
%
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,
A-N
,.
36
,,
421/2
..
is 1 in. (4 seams.) 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from JJ. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams.) above Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing J J. 6, 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back
seam over L and BP to I, — 1/2 breast measure and 3 in. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V^ waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 314 inches.
WHERE SEAT WAIST MORE THAN 2 IN. EXCEEDS, AND NO SEAM RUNS DOWN OVER THE HIPS, THE BACK PATTERN IS SHOVED BACK THE EXCEEDING AMOUNT less INCH (3/4 inch in this case.) FROM J TO J AND FROM L TO L.] A CASE LIKE THIS
1/2
1/2
Mark
THE FORE-PART.
W
7,
14 over-shoulder
below Q;
take out
1
and y^ in. from U to K. Measure the back from to X, place that quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and 1/2 in. Curve the fore part side seam from V, through K and 19 to 13. Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. inch at
7,
W
9 is the crossing point of these
Mark
left on.
Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 overshoulder and y^ waist. 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and
down from 1 to shoulder from 2;
in-
38
1/2
J.
Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. Q from D 14 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule fiom Q through P. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S'is V^ over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V
and N-L must be
123^
Waist measure Seat measure
[IN
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
midway between
Strap measure Breast measure
J to JJ
sixth over-shoul-
scye depth;
C
ENTS.
two
lines.
same quantity above 5, as N is aCurve the neck part and gorge from
11 the
bove J. C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the J E,
is
made from
line
J.
Apply the over-shoulder measure from the centre of the shoulder
down
D
over
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-lO.
seams.)
Curve the scye as indicated. Complete to style. The space, wich J and L being shoved back, must be taken out of the under arm or hip
Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on .1 and square out to ^.
with the understanding, that it runs down from the scye to the waist line; springing out in the pocket mouth.
2 and
10
Star is 1/2 overfrom star is 2 inches. 3.
from star is % waist and 1 4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 T from B is Vi waist measure. 15
;
in. in.
(4
cut;
parallel
TALL FIGURE WITH SLOOPING SHOULDERS
AND PROMINENT
HIPS.
18
SACK-COAT FOR
HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length
Over-shoulder Blade measure
8
in.
HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE.
STOOPING OR ROUND BACK FIGURES.
20
we meet in a great varity of form and attitudes— it important in those kind of figures to observe where the deviation or roundness is most remarkable; — the rest will be envolved by the system it self. It is a natural phenomeon that an round back furnishes a larger over-shoulder than should have been the case were the figure of a normal or erect attitude. (The dotted lines in Dia. illustrate the outline of upper structure for a figure having the same over-shoulder measure, but with a regular attitude. ) The enlarged over-shoulder measure widens the spaces E— J, and JJ— 5; and accordingly to this, it moves point 6 in a more forward position. The longer scye depth provides a longer distance A— N, and this in connection with point 8, provides for a more shoved forward neck-part; it also with regard to 10 and C, performs a more bringing forward of the front of scye. The application of direct strap-measure restores the distances 5 -6 and L -J which for this fore-part shoulder is to large; — the direct strap measure lowers line A— 8 in parallel, but it must be understood that, although the length of line 17— C has to be shortened and also on the arm-side of fore part, the distance 17— D has to remain intact. The distance between the parallel lines on the centre of the shoulder must be divided equally and, on the blades, and on the shoulder; —where this dividing on the blades in the real sence is not an as easy matter as for a "Frock-coat," the quantity is added to back seam or crease; the other half is left on the shoulder which provides for a more close fitting neck-part and on arm-side. In daily practice these figures
is
SLEEVES.
LADIES the
same
MEN'S SLEEVES
and in
Square out and down from
A A
D
to to
is
C
IVi is
are both
construction.
in.
D
B
to
A
is
C and
to
B.
over-shoulder.
14 over-shoulder.
through C to G, locating E.
Rule from
B
E
F
is
Vi
Place
G
as
to
over-shoulder.
Square out from F to much above F, as 12 tern
is
made from
H
8.
and
in
J.
the fore part pat-
(or,
from J
in
coats
where not for seams is allowed as usually not is done in "Ladies" coats.)
Mark
H
and J each one-sixth over-shoulder K is 1 inch; J to L the same. From A to N is 1/2 in. more than the distance between 17 and Q in the coat pattern.
from
F. J to
Curve the sleeve head from A through H, G to L. Measure fore-armlength from E to B. At the length even if reaching below or above B, square out to O by E— B line. Make B to O width of the bottom. From E to P is the difference between scye-depth and natural waist-length. ( Letter P is missing in this Dia. but her position will be
known
as
it is
out from P by
understood that
E B
line.
)
Q
is
squared
Make Q from
P,
same as from B. Chalk from L through Q to O; and from K to Q. Mark S V2 in- inside of R. Curve from A through S and B; add 1 inch the
beyond this for the top, and go wards for under sleeve.
1
inch in-
.
OVER-COAT.
22 The over-coat
Add. to scye depth
1/2
for over-shoulder
in.,
way
this is the best
measured over vest as
also
is
3/4 in.,
for blade
Breast— Waist— and Seat, each
correct measures.
to obtain
1 in.,
for stiaj)
1%
and
in.
loi
-
3 inches.
MEASUREMENTS. lU
Scye depth Natural waist length
17%
Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure
Rule
A
line
Mark C one
B.
der below A. C to ural waist length.
in.
41
,,
Waist measure
20
,,
Seat measure
13
,.
sixth over-shoulC-B nat-
D
scye depth;
C
to
BB
,,
full length.
Place E 1/3 over-shoulder one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.
B
to
F
G
to
W
is
is
11/4
inches.
over-shoulder plus
Place J from Square up and down from J E,
L
to
N
is
M
is
1/2
1/2
midway between
A
tc
over-shoulder plus
M
and
M
inch.
1/2
and L. inch.
1/2
J.
and N.
Connect inch. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less less 1 inch. over-shoulder D from Q Va Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 1/4 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1
%
inch or desired shoulder width.
is
scye
depth above L.
Measure from the centre of
M
down
to V,
over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 34 in. X from G is V2 over-shoulder. Curve the back 1/2
side
What
seam from 1/2
sure
is
excess
V
through
U
and
X
to 22.
seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist meacalled:— "excess."— In this case the is
23^ inches.
the excess from X. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7, and ^4 in. from U to K. Shape the fore part side-seam from V through
19
is
7,
made
K
W
13.
to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and 14 waist. Square up and is placed 3 inches from Z. down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from Mark IB from STAR 1/4 waist meaSTAR.
From
1
and 19 to
Strap measure Breast measure
sure plus
1
.1,
'A
I
42 44
inch.
from F
4
T from B
is
'/2
over-shculder-
V4 waist measure. Place the square with the long aim on 1, the
and
1 in.
is
corner resting on J and square out to 5 J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; S is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is V2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. 73 ;
BP is one above 5. Rule from L ovei BP Measure from D at ihe back sea'u to 18. over L and BP to 18, the V2 breast measure
over-shoulder and V2 sixth breast b^low 5.
in-
plus 3 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A. A-N
and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A testing on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over
Sway
the centre of the shoulder
down
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-10.
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown.
not a necessity to cut a V in top of lapd or to pleat over the under part;— as shown in this Dia. the broken line is lultdstraigth
It is
down from A to 15 on the waist-line. Having shaped front and gorge, the broken line
may be
cut to 15; inoving that line with
15 holding in its place over to
1
in.
beyond
opens the lapel in an V which avoids working in with stay-tape. —Those who prefer to work up .the fronts, care must be used to have them worked shoit the just amount. Make lower part of front, pai'allel with 2—1. 18, it
S.
B.
OVER COAT-
.
SLIP-ON.
24
MEASUREMENTS. 10
Scye depth Natural waist length
in.
17y4 44
Full length
Over-shoulder Blade measure
The same additions
as
given on
,,
,,
20
,,
13
,.
foregoing
page hold good for the different measures
in
this kind of coats.
Rule
line
A
Mark C one
B.
to
D
scye depth;
C
to
C
BB
C-B nat-
full length.
Place E Vs over-shoulder to F is one inch. above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V^ over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line.
B
G
to
W
is
1%
inches.
Place J from E, y^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
Square up and down from J tc
L
to
M
is
1/2
M
and L.
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
M and J. Connect A and N. inch. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 N
is
14
Waist measure Seat measure
38
midway between
%
inch or desired shoulder width.
O
is
scye
depth above L.
To produce the
desired fulness on back and round hips, the blade measure has to undergo an increasing by way of space U K; which in this case amounts 2V2 in. while V2 seat measure has undergone 3 times that much which brings the "excess" up to IOV2 inches. In this case the scye dei)th is lowerd IV2 in. As will be observed, the front of scye remains intact as do all other fitting points; the only alteration this coat diagram has under gone is in its style. X and 22 are located by ruling down from N through K, while the bottom curve to 22 is obtained by sweeping out with S as an pivot, from where the line S Q crosses the
42 44
length. 19 is made the excess from X. From U is ruled down through 19 to 13. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z
sixth over-shoul-
ural waist length.
der below A.
Strap measure Breast measure
1
represents the different between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist. Square up and is placed 3 inches from Z. down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from Mark 15 from star 14 waist meaSTAR. sure plus
1 inch.
from F
4
T from B
is
over-shoulder-
Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the
and
1 in.
is
corner resting on J and square out to 5 is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. ;
JJ
Rule up from
4 thi-ough 5 to 6; placing 6, Va
above 5. BP is one Rule from L over BP Measure from D at the back seam to 18. over L and BP to 18, the y2 breast measure over-shoulder and V2 sixth breast b3low 5.
in.
plus 3 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N
and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C.
Sway
two same quantity above 5,
9 is the crossing point of these
Mark
11 the
lines.
as
N
is
a-
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from
the centre of the shoulder ting 17, on the line C-10.
Curve the scye as indicated. Complete to style.
down
D
over
to 17; loca-
SLIP-ON.
THE LOWER
26
figures in which one side or shoulder is lower than the other, there usually are (2) different eye -depths and also (two) over-shoulder meaThe lower side usually shows more sures. scye-depth and a larger over-shoulder. The Diagram is constructed by a difference of one inch in scye depth the over-shoulder is increased the same quantity for that side. The different measurements of course, need
SIDE.
each apart attention or two drawings. When one understands the construction of previous Diagrams, he cannot go astray with this one. Special attention
the lapel, which side
which
is in
is
is
called to che
V
in
top of
only cut in for the higher
accordance to the given con-
structions with regard to broken line from
through
what
A
be noticed restoring equilibrium again with regard to top button. 1
thus,
will
V ESTS. Rule
line
A
B.
Mark C one
der below A. C to ural waist length.
E
Square to
to
F
C-B nat-
one inch.
is
1/3
Place J from E,
L
B
sixth over-shoul-
scye depth;
over-shoulder above D. Rule from through to F. Square out from E,H,F.
Place
E
D
uj)
M
is
1/2
over-shoulder plus
and down from J to 1/2
M
1/2
inch.
and L.
over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. inch. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth or desired shoulwidth. is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V
%
V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.
Make U from B, 1/2 over-shoulder and IV2 in. Mark 7 % over-shoulder below the scye-depth Curve the back from scye through U. to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and i/i waist. 4 from F is over-shoulder and V2 in. (2 seams) T from B is Vi waist measure. Z from 2 is 2^4 inches. Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Place the square line.
From B
with the long arm on T, the corner resting on and square out to r,. to .J.J is 1/2 in. .1
;
.1
seams.) 8 is V2 in. above JJ. n is V2 overshoulder from JJ. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and V2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b?low .5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the (2
1/2 breast measure plus IV2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting
or tracing out the back, the jiiece C-A,
A-N
and N-L must be left ^m. Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Rule a straigth line from A at the cross line through 18. Mark star Vi waist measure from 15; what 1.5 falls inside of this broken line can be taken out from under the most prominent part of chest. Apply opening and length; add V2 in. for over lap. Shape scye, side seam and bottom. Take out V2 in. at 7 the other V2 in. is taken on the same level out of back-seam or by way of a V as indicated. For corpulent or stout waisted figures, square down by waist-line at 4 and also by Jâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5 line, crossing the same point as desribed in SACK-COATS.
is
28
MILITARY TUNIC. MEASUREMENTS.
Scye depth
MILITARY TUNIC.
COLLARS.
30
With the pattern laying in the shoulder closed position, sweep from C through E. Mark F Vi over-shoulder below C. E from C depth of stand; G from F the same. With the one arm of the square touching G and E, square out to D and extend that line from E to J is stand-depth, E— J leafMark of turn at K and chalk from G
lO J;
edge.
to K.
Mark H from G
as
much
as
G
is
F; — fold the lapel to K, and trace from
Shape back-side according
H.
from
L
to
to style.
In military collars to provide for more length on shoulders to avoid to much stretching, the back line J — D is squared out by F— E. Apply length F— Y from G to K. L is Vi inabove K. Complete as indicated.
MILITARY-OVERCOAT.
A
is
B
,,
BB is ,,
E
,,
one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. V3 over-shoulder above D.
F
,,
1
is
V2 over-shoulder
,,
located by an square line ruled
E is
JJ I
L
M N
is
P
,,
,,
,,
Q R
,.
S
,,
..
T
,,
U
,,
W
below F.
down from
by J and E. and
inch (4 seams.)
1/2
from
in.
from
E.
J.
breast plus 3 inches from D. squared down from J by J and E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L. in. from E. V2 over-shoulder less V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. Vi over-shoulder above Q. 14 over-shoulder above R. Vi waist from B. V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F.
is is 1/2 ,,
(2 seams.) above JJ. the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.
8
is 1/2 in-
9
is
from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J J as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 10
is
2 inches
11
,,
as
16
,,
17
,,
IVi
to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi-
cates the deviations in the up)per structure of shoulders neck and blades.
in.
W
W
the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from
D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, included "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have
%
from G. X ,, made Vi seat from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and 14 waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by and 1. 3 ,, squared down by and 1. 4 ,, over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder is
is
inch from B.
V^ over-shoulder
is 1
is
7
D
J
V3 over-shoulder and V^ inch above 5. Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part
6
C
G H
from J J.
one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full length from C.
Apply strap measure up from 17
to C, without addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam. In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.
19
is
V^ seat less
back quantity W-X, from
Z.
BD
TROUSERS.
32
RIDING BREECHES.
CORPULENT MAN'S TROUSERS.
Outside length
431/2 in-
Inseam Waist
32
,,
49
,,
Seat
50
,,
Knee Bottom
221/2
,,
18
,,
Square out and down from
A (
to
B
is
A— C
Vi seat;
A
to
B and
C.
out-side length;
C—
in-seam; E is Vfe proportion waist above D. 1/2 proportion waist is adequate to over-shoul-
H is midway G and B. Mark from C as much as H is from A; draw a line from H to I locating N. C to L is % waist. Raise BC as much above L, as L is from B. Square down from B to J by A — Mark K Vfe seat out from J; curve fly- front as indicated from BC to K. Make M and O Vi knee each from N; P and Q each Vi bottom less Vi inch from I. Shape side seam from a i/j inch above G through E and O to Q; also in-seam from K, through M to P. Take out der, less 1 inch.) I
V2 inch for dress.
THE BACK-PART. Extend the
Mark R Square
lines
A-B,
E,
M-0
and
P-Q.
Vi proportion waist above J. to S by J-B. S from R, out from
R
is
the difference between 14 proportion waist, and Vi seat plus V2 in. Mark T from S, V4
seat and one inch, plus distance B, L. Place the square with one arm touching J and S, the other resting on T and square out; this will locate U. Measure waist from L to G and T to U and take out the surplus (that is what that measure the waist measure more than 1 inch exceeeds;) in a V as indicated. Mark from V 14 seat plus 2 inches; X from K is 1 inch; Y from M and Z from O, each
W
V^ inch. 1
from
P,
and 2 from Q, each
1 in.
REGULAR PANTS.
TROUSERS.
33
LADIES' SEMI FITTING
34
COAT
WITH FRENCH SEAM. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length
71/2
Full length
29
Over-shoulder Blade measure
10%
Rule
line
A
B.
Strap measure Breast measure
15
Waist measure Seat measure
16
Mark C one
der below A. C to ural waist length.
sixth over-shoul.
D
scye depth;
C
to
BB
C-B nat-
full length.
one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.
B
to
F
G
to
W
is
is
IVi inches.
Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
N
is
midway between
M
and
J.
Connect A and N. P from E is V^ over-shoulder less inch. Q from I) 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1
%
inch or desired shoulder width.
depth above L. Measure from the centre of
M
O
is
down
scye
to V,
V2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.
Make
20 to style or taste; (in this case 20
in
is
halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoulder from B, X from a trifle more.) Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and
W
X
to bottom. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches
from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided between and Z. From to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over-
W
11%
W
shoulder and Vi waist. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V2 waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches. In this case HI is made V4 seat from W. KL is made the excess from HI. Place the distance X-W on Z, and make 19, Vi seat measure less the excess.
in.
38
,,
29
,,
37
..
Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 13. Curve also down from scye through HI and KL. 1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is 14 waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth bust b^low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the '/2 breast measure plus 2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N ;
and N-L must be left on. the back with point N on J, and A res. ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line
Sway
J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from
the centre of the shoulder
down
D
over
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-10.
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight through 18 to
line 3;
from
A
at the cross line
the distance which this on
%
of it the waistline falls beyond 15, is for taken out of bust seam. The waistline runs parallel with the line L — BP. Mark 26 1 in.
more below 4 as BB is from B. Add for overlap and shape front and bottom. (See article for more details on page 47.)
LADIES' SEMI-FITTING
COAT WITH FRENCH SEAM.
)
36 CLOSE FITTING COAT
STOUT
for
LADIES' FIGURES.
MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length
16
Full length
31
Over-shoulder Blade measure
121/4
Rule
line
A
Mark C one
B.
to
F
G
to
W
scye depth;
C
to
BB
C-B nat-
full length.
1
one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E. H,F and G by E-G line. is
is
114 inches.
Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch.
N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less "^/^ inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width.
O
is
scye
depth above L.
Measure from the centre of V^ over-shoulder less
'/2
M O down
to V,
inch; locating V, in
lines M-L,and P-Q. 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20
the centre of the
Make
W
X
2S)\
from
The
bottom. Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder betake out 1 inch at 7, and I14 inches
to
21 to 23.
tween
W
W
and
Y
must be divided
be-
What sure
'/2
is
is
seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist meacalled:— "excess. "— In this case the
exf'ess is 7 inches.
HI is made '/i over-shoulder from G. KL is made the difference between sea" and 14 waist from HI. Make hip lines the excess apart, less the distance HI, KL. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has <^() fall on X, In this case
%
Curve from 20 through
,.
36
.,
50
..
placed 2 inches from Z.
and
Sqaure up and
Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder 1
to 2
3.
;
above 5. BP is one sixth bust b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. is
the crossing point of these two lines.
11 the same quantity above 5, as N is above J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over
Mark
down
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-10.
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points
Z.
over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 overshoulder and 14 waist. to
47
down from scye through HI and
the centre of the shoulder
hip or seat measure
From
is
also
down from
9 is
halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoulder from B, X from a trifle more. Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and low
Curve KL.
sixth over-shoul.
D
127/8 in-
Waist measure Seat measure
18
der below A. C to ural waist length.
B
Strap measure Breast measure
81/4
7.
2-!
nnd 19
to
V.\.
as shown. Rule a straight through 18 to line;
line 1 !,
the distance
from
A
locating
at the cross line
A
on the waist-
15— A determines the
%
sur-
taken out of the first bust-seam the rest Va, is token out from C to D— the top of this being located squaring out by the centre front-line over BP— on this square the front-piece was Place the width of made V4 over-shoulder. plus of front waist;
front- piece, (distance
of this
is
from centre-line
to E.)
behind 1, in this case less two inches which is token out of the second space. ( AlihaheMcaiy d 'sription on page 45.)
CLOSE FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE.
)
)
COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES' FIGURE.
38
MEASUREMENTS. 7%
Scye depth Natural waist length
14
Full length
36
Over-shoulder Blade measure
Rule
line
A
in.
Waist measure Seat measure
161/2
Mark C one
B.
scye depth;
C
to
BB
C-B
nat-
is
11/4
down from
inches.
Place J from E,
i/^
over-shoulder plus
Square up and down from J to
L
to
N
is
M
is
1/^
over-shoulder plus
midway between
M
and
M 1/2
inch.
1/2
and L. inch.
J.
Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3/j inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is V^ overshoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width.
O
is
scye
depth above L.
Measure from the centre of
M O down
to V,
over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q.
in
1/2
Make
shoulder from B,
Curve from
from D; X from
is
21 one sixth over-
W
a trifle more.
A-N down through
20, 21 and bottom. Mark 7, y^ over-shoulder below 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches
X
line
to
from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided tween
W
W and Z.
What
1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist measure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches. In this case HI is made 14 seat and 1 in. from
KL
made
the difference between Vi seat and Vi waist from HI. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting (i.
is
44
..
and
to 2
1
Sqaure up and Place star i^ 2 inches from
3.
;
above 5. BP is one sixth bust b?low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and
BP
to 18, the
1/2
breast measure plus 2
in.
Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting
A-N
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A,
and N-L must be left ,;n. Sway the back with point N on J, and A resting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C.
two same quantity above 5,
9 is the crossing point of these 11 the
lines.
N
as
is
a-
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from the centre of the shoulder
down
D
over
to 17; loca-
ting 17, on the line C-10. be-
to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between 1/2 overshoulder and 14 waist.
From
.,
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is STAR. Mark 15 from STAR 14 waist measure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is 14 waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T. the corner resting on J and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder
Mark
20 to style or taste; (in this case 20
14 over-shoulder
placed 2 inches from Z.
is
1
full length.
to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line.
W
,.
36
KL.
sixth over-shoul-
D
B
to
121/4 in.
45
111/2
der below A. C to ural waist length.
G
Strap measure Breast measure
round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has to fall on X, Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 1.^. Curve also down from scye through HI and
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through 18 to line;
3,
locating 15 on the waist-
what the distance 15— STAR— exceeds and
14 waist
of the bust
inch
1
waist-line runs
the rest
I/3,
is
for
% of
seam on the is
it
taken out
waist-line;
parallel with
line
(
the
L — BP.
gathered into fulness, plaited
Mark 26 1 inch more below 4 as BB is below B. Having obtained the line to 26, corpulency must be dealt with in same way as in men's coats that's to say. square down by natural waist-line and thereafter, crossing the same pidnt ;it the waist-line by or cut out.
.1
.')
lint'.
COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES FIGURE.
.
LADIES LONG LOOSE-FITTING COAT.
40
for serve as a example for construction of all loose-fitting coats as well out at 7. taken inch of the space 1 called to is attention special Men's as Ladies'-and — Though it may look strange for a loose fitting coat to take any out at that part, it scye and denevertheless this, is necessary if a good fitting coat round neck, shoulders, in putting the whole neck and sired back-effect is wanted ;-omitting this would result (Balmacaan-effect) would shoulder part in disorder, while also the so much desired of hot iron after the stay on the hips; -taking out the space and stretching by meams the same happens to the shoulder-blades; below back to flare the transfers cut, is coat — As one will see, the instructions for this are the same as for the regular
This Dia.
may
fore part. over K is cut, opened up the desired coats afterward the dotted line marked from D and a piece is pasted under neath. amount, say two inches- on the line
N
L—
is
B
,,
one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C.
A
BE C
,,
one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vs over-shoulder above D.
D
,,
1
,,
E F
G H
inch
is 1/2 ,,
E by
7
9
over-shoulder below F.
V2 over-shoulder
and
in-
from E.
is
K
the desired fulness from L. (In this L to K is made 2 in.) rule as
1/2
made
shown
per broken line from N through K, before cutting out the back pattern this line is cut from bottom to N thereafter opened the desired quantity and a piece of paper being
pated or pinned underneath of it. Reshape scye and bottom. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 i"ch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L. in. from E. 1/2 over-shoulder less Q ,, Vz over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, 14 over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vs over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. X ,, made Vi seat from G. V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of ,,
P
%
,,
O, less
W
1V4
1/2
1.
through which the neck circle
is
curved.
from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is Vi waist and 1 inch from STAR. is
16
,,
17
,
,
2 inches
the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from
D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indicates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. 18 19
is is
V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. V2 seat less back quantity W-X,
and hip
excess from Z.
M-
22
much from T, as BB is from B and down from T over X. ruled down from A in the shoulder closed
is
as
ruled straight
in.
from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and Vi waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. is 2 inches from Z. 1 and 1. ,. squared up by 2 is
and
,
10
J and E.
W
over-shoulder from F. ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder from J is 1/3 over-shoulder above 5. is Vi over-shoulder below L. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part, is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C
down from
J
is
6
from B.
located by an square line ruled
squared down by
,, ,
5
length from C.
is full
is
3 4
in.
W
8 is
position through
I, and after this centre-line cut from top to I, the lower part must be pleated over, to make the centre-line run
is
2—1 line and which opens the top into a V. -As will be understood, this Y may be cut from any place of neck-circle or shoulder.
parallel with
LADIES LONG LOOSE FITTING COAT.
THE
42
SKIRT.
MEASUREMENTS. Front length
Hip Back
38
in.
SKIRT.
J
X
ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION
44
DIA.
A
is
B
,,
BB C
is full
,, ,,
1
,,
inch from B.
FF is fashion waist length from G is y^ over-shoulder below F.
H
,,
I
down from
midway
J and
most
M
and connected with A.
scye depth above L. t* ., V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. Q ,, V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, Vi over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vfe over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. U ,, V4 over-shoulder less V2 in- from 23 or to taste.
over-shoulder below the centre of M-
V
is 1/2
W
0, less 1/2 ii. is 114 in. from G. ,,
a trifle
more than
Vfe
over-shoulder from
W.
Y
is
Z
,,
over-shoulder from W. the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 1. BP is V3 breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. and 1. 2 ,. squared up by and 1. 3 ,, squared down by 4 ,, over-shoulder and 1 inch from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder
W
W
from J J. 6
is
from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. much from 8, as the back edge on line J-E is made from J. 2 inches
as as
,,
13
a
is
little
more from 27 than
BB
is
from
FF.
,,
X
,,
J and E.
pushed forward place. is V2 breast and 3 inches from D. I J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. J J is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch above L. is
is
11
the
locates the centre breast point at the
N
10 12
C.
located by an square line ruled
E by
PAGf:
7
length from C.
one sixtn over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vs over-shoulder above D.
FROCK-COAT.
is y^, ovei -shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and side body. 8 is 1/2 inch above JJ and the adjuvant of N. 9 is the ciossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.
one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C.
is
D E F
ON
D.B.
of
V3 over-shoulder
and V2 inch above
5.
14
is
made
15
is
16
,,
17
D
3 inches from 3, l^ waist and 1 inch from
STAR.
the centre point of the shoulder. ,, located by the direct strap measure from when the back is laid in the shoulder clo-
sed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 ,, V2 seat and V2 in, less the back quantity from Z.
20
,,
midway Q and H.
from B. from 21. 24 ,, a seam below fashion waist line. 25 ,, V2 inch above fashion waist line. 26 ,, 11/2 in. below fashion ,, ,, 27 ,, the difference between 14 waist and Vi seat above 24. Providing for seams the side body is curved from 1/2 in. above R to 20.
21
,,
V^ over-shoulder
23
,,
11/4 in.
THE LAPEL. squared up by the seat line touching in all cases point L 29-30 is equal to the fore part. 29
line to 31 is
made
2Vi inches above 30.
31
is
32
,,
,,
11/2
..
33
,,
,,
3
,,
.,
L
34
,,
,,
21/4
,,
,,
29.
from
31.
ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION
45
CLOSE-FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. DIA.ON PAGE
A
is
B
,,
BB
one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full
is
D E
,,
one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Va over-shoulder above D.
F
,,
1
G
is y-i
H
,,
,,
inch
is
L
,,
M
,,
N
is
P
.T
,.
Q R S
..
V2 over-shoulder less V^ over-shoulder less
.,
!4 over-shoulder
,,
V^ over-shoulder
V
V2 over-shoulder O, less V2 i"-
% 1
in. in.
from G. over-shoulder from
shoulder seam.
W.
where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.
In cases
the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. ,,
2
,.
.3
..
5
17 to C. without addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of
1 in. from 23. below the centre of M-
STAR is V2 over-shoulder from BP is one sixth breast below 5.
4
Apply strap measure up from
waist from B.
,, ,,
from squared up by
6
is
7
is
18
2.
19
Z.
W
and 1. and 1. over-shoulder from F. squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder squared down by
from
.,
cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades.
V^ over-shoulder less
2 inches
the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the up,,
to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi-
is 11/4 in.
is
as as
or backward, large or flat blades etc". have
from E. from D.
above Q. above R.
is
is
2 inches
per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for
and V^ in. from E. squared down from J by J and E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. midway J and M and connected with A. scye depth above L.
V2 over-shoulder
,,1/4
1
down from
E.
„
Z
,,
over-shoulder below F.
located by an square line ruled
T
Y
is
11
17
U
W
10
16
from B.
E by J and J
from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ., much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR.
length from C.
C
37
W
J.
Va over-shoulder above 5. 14 over-shoulder below 20. 1 inch
is
taken
out at 7 between back and side-piece. 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S. 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.
is
is
^2 breast plus 2 inches from D. V2 seat less back quantity W-X,
excess from Z. 23 is IVi inches from 21. KL is made the difference between
and hip
Vi
seat
and V^ waist. 15-A this distance indicates the surplus in the of it, is taken out between front waist; front-piece and B, the rest from C to D. E — 1 on the seat-line W-1, the distance frorn centre line to 1 is token out between fiontpiece and fore-part, less 2 inches; this 2 in. being token out of the second bust-seam.
%
ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION
46
FOR
S.B.
SACK-COAT.
DIA.
A
is
B
,,
BB C
is
D
,,
E
,,
ON PAGE
one sixth over-shoulder above C. natural waist length from C. is full length from C.
above
one sixth over-shoulder below A. scye depth below C. Vb over-shoulder above D.
F â&#x20AC;&#x17E;
1
G H
14 over-shoulder
inch from B.
Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part.
8
above J J. the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved.
is
,,
Q R
..
Vz over-shoulder less 3^ in. Vi over-shoulder less 1 in.
,,
V4 over-shoulder
S
,,
T
,,
U V
is
,,
is
from STAR. much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, much from 8, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is y^ waist and 1 inch from STAR.
10
is
11
,,
16
,,
17
,,
V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. V2 over-shoulder below the centre of
W
1/2
is 11/4 in. ,,
from W.
is
,,
where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way.
18
breast plus 2 inches from D. seat less back quantity W-X, and hip
is 1/2
19
is 1/2
excess from Z. a
is
located by ruling
down from A through
I.
15-a; this distance indicates the surplus in the
squared by
T and
J and Vi over-shoulder
from JJ. is
shoulder seam. In cases
W
F.
6
out addition; raise or lower the line A â&#x20AC;&#x201D; S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of
M-
over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V^ waist from Y. STAR is Vi over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by and 1. 3 ,, squared down by and 1. 4 plus 1 in. (4 seams.) from ,, over-shoulder 5
the centre point of the shoulder. located by the direct strap measure from
to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are
from G.
W
as as
D when the back is laid in the shoulder closed position; deviations in regard to the upper structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc ".have
in-
V2 over-shoulder less V2 i"-
2 inches
being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indicates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with-
above Q. 14 over-shoulder above R. 14 waist from B.
O, less
X Y
from E. from D.
Vi inch (2 seams;)
is
%
P
5.
7
9
below F. ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. is 1 inch from 18. I J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. JJ is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. in. from U. K is L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, Vi over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. is
11
V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch (2 seams;)
%
of it is taken out on top of front waist; the rest from under the most promilapel;
nent part of the chest.
)
47
PRODUCING DIFFERENT STYLES OF
GARMENTS
by
A STANDARD PATTERN.
(continued from page
When
I
34.
say: "This are the only models a cut-
needs to understand", many cutter no doubt, will be surprised looking at the great varity of styles which fashion shows and creates; but bear in mind that styles are produced ter
by a foundation model and anything as pleats, anything which appeares in fashion, is fancy made up out of a plain model. To do this needs a little artistic skill. The coat with —French-seam,— and what can be accomplished by it, should be thoroughly studied in every detail. With seams running down over blades, bust and hips, it's adaptable for any form of figure and for all sizesMany experienced cutter uses this to construct by its outlines nearly every style; for instance —if pleats are being wanted,— he folds pleats ready cuts the pattern where they are wanted and pleat or pleats are pasted in. The same is done with flare, fullness etc. but fitting points must be preserved; for instance— the one inch taken out at 7, may not be neglected; as this would enfeeble fitting points round neck, scye and shoulders; diagrams show different positi^ ons and means in which this inch can be taken out. To use this as a foundation model is a far faster and an safe way. — In Ladies' figures it must however not be omitted we meet just as well corpulency as in Mens' figures and even as in those, if close or smoot hanging fronts below the waistline are desired, the surplus of material must be taken away by same means as described for stout and corpulent figures. fullness, flat e, or
Quarter of an inch seams are allowed for Men garments, Ladi'es garments are nett.
all
CONTENTS. Theorem
How
of the system
to take
page
measuies
3
4
D. B. Frock-coat
6
Corpulent Man's Cut-away
8
S.B. Sack-coat
10
Corpulent Man's Sack-coat
12
Stout Man's Sack-coat
14
Tall Figure with slooping shoulders
16
High siiouldered Figure
18
Stooping Figure
20
Sleeves
20
Man's Over-coat
22
Man's Top-coat
24
The Lower
26
side
Vests
26
Military Tunick
28
Collars
30
Military Burnoose
30
Trousers
32
Ladies-coat with French-seam
34
Close Fitting coat for Stout Lady
36
Corpulent Ladies coat with large bust
38
Ladies long loose-fitting coat
40
Skirt
42
Alphabetical desription for Frock-coat ,, ,,
,,
,,
Ladies coat
,,
,,
Sack-coat
44
45 46
Producing different styles by a regular style pattern
47
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
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I
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