Weilerladiestail00weil by David Mannock

WEILER 1915

g |

The Weiler Ladies Tailor — Dressmaker

t £

Designer, Cutter and Fitter

Book

| I

i C:

r :c

I II '-

PUBLISHED BY

WEILER

MILWAUKEE

DESIGNER i I

iWW Iffl

CI.A398733 MAY -7 1915

PROFESSOR

WE1LER

|Z^±ve ^VVeiler IiVcrtr>xctorl | The Weiler Block Canada and Europe. The

First

Patents applied for in the United States,

Prize

designing, cutting and fitting personally done by Mr. Weiler with hj s own method, has unconditionally been awarded First Prize

Awards.

Gold Medals, Diploma and Cup of Honor at the 1912-1913 International Exhibitions in London, Paris, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona.

Safe,

Sure, Easy.

The Weiler method

able Results Attained.

Has Unusual Ability.

and

safe, sure

and

Dressmakers, Ladies'

Fitters, regardless of practical ex-

perience or working knowledge, as

simplifies matters,

making

the

easy.

Tailoring has been my sole occupation since a mere boy of twelve. For twelve consecutive years I have been actively associated with leading ladies' tailors, and, any of these concerns, as well as the scores of satisfied clients 1 am serving in my own establishment. will gladly testify to the remarkable results attained with ease and

accuracy by Weiler

prove a great boon

Tailors, Designers, Cutters

work

Remark-

will

simple method.

thorough knowledge of every phase of the ladies' tailoring profession. I have studied the most advanced systems in tailors and cutters' academies, and in my own high class ladies' tailoring establishment, where the lowest price is sixty dollars and the average for suit or long top coat is seventy-five the dollars, / person, illy do all the designing, cutting and fitting unsolicited success of which is eloquently proved by hundreds of Is not this e\ idence of unusual ability." letters of sincere praise. I

a tailor

and cutter possessing

—

Tailor,

C titter, Designer, tt6r

'w k inHarmony

book and block from the standpoint of the dressmaker, the tail/ invaluable beei t ie cu tter, the designer and fitter, must become cause it estaD lishes a complete understanding of each other, in a sense P ermittin £ A11 to work as ° ne ex P ellin S the customary waste of time tnrou Sn misunderstanding, and assuring rapid, safe

and sane Lightens

Task.

results.

Both the tailor and cutter readily assume a knowledge of designing by my plain method, and, thus the world's oldest vocationeliminates eris improved to a degree which positively tailoring

—

rors

and lightens the

task. 'leven

>••

' .

Mastered in

:•

•••:.'•: '*•*.</.

'•".Si'lV'.vV

matters not whether you

by others, or

:.,.;-•.•

arc-

-;.,.*--iS:.

v ;.-;

.V>,'';,, :•• v ;•';..:,'

working

cutter in need of

V'-.-. >;

.-..;•.'•'

"''^..si

employed yon may now be-

for yourself, or

designing

ery

come accomplished

in the

'rime.

Cutting Block you can operate ii

completed with all large and small sizes and skillfully alter a couple ot hours' practice.

Graduated

Any

for Vw

'-'1

he-

same within

very short space ot time.

o bother with system

unnecessary, because the block

gradu-

ated to meet any size, however large or small, so that yon need only locate the proper

sleeves will

lit

number

for dress, coat, sleeves, waist or skirt.

into the armholes, the underskirt

and shoulder with shoulder

in a faultless

The

with the top-skirt

manner.

iK^trMctor] ^Jve — — Hear —— — "We — —

L r

...- ;

y*.

r— ——ilr-

,....,

The Weiler Block Designing '

//(

''"'" I.

nst outers.

Bf come

new designing plate in miniature size, By laying this plate on a which insures a normal 36 measure. sheet of paper and drawing a line around it, in a minute's notice .,, ,; ,. , you produce a form ot Coat, Skirt or Dress, sketching lor the customer any front or back view she may desire to see. It you do not yourself do the sewing, hand this little sketch to your tailor or dressmaker, and he w ill see <if <i glance what is desired. have also perfected

II-

Money.

Everybody interested in I. allies' Tailoring is now situated to and become competent to earn uuicklv attain a working & knowledge, . ___. ,, f big money. \\ it the use of the plate, the customer s wishes are almost instantly made clear to you.

No More

Regardless of whether you

Wasted

to learn

Labor.

studied, or the

(. Olll .

Retell!

ham ;/

•

]

your present

—

may have invested hundreds ot dollars system, or how many months or years you have

number

of instruction books you have gathered to-

course you have finished or are about to finish is hard, impractical and anything but a guarantee of exactness. If the average academic system is based on solid tacts and not high sounding gether

///e

WHY

Three to Four Try-Ons? For the very good reason that the garment does not fit. and, often, as von may recall, cannot be made to tit after hours of wasted effort and theory,

does

require

labor.

hyCutters

/'",-,

ar g e

Slavnio-

of cutters today lack confidence in their cutting, as

many garments

through

Turned

number

are returned

a defective system,

and

refused, having been spoiled

with slim chances of being adjusted.

na tural inclination, keen liking and lifelong expehave made numerous rience in the ladies' tailoring occupation, However, Cutters, Tailors and mistakes, due to faulty systems. Dressmakers need no longer apply themselves to any Trouble. My method has absolutely revolutionized the customary "slaving against wrong principles," to a pleasantry that warrants perfection. [

S(1 j tc

Pleas antry. to

Page Thirteen

^•-^^^/•^•^-^-^^^•••••-'••^

Adjusts /^v//

— for anything and everything pertaining to tailoring or dressmaking — a per('oats,

Skirts,

Sleeves,

Dresses.

Waists, Shirts,

Aprons

can be quickly and inexpensively taken from any present or future style the world over.

fect pattern

X/r/ <-.

To purchase

this block,

months and years of nerve destroying, fruitless study. It will give you immediate command of the only perfect dressmaking and ladies' tailoring method in the universe. The combined patterns are included with the substantially bound book, which contains clear, logical explanations. Every design in this volume was made from the WeilSkirt, er Block. The entire system includes Coat, back and front back and front) Dress and Tailored Sleeves, and the Special Debook of "priceless" information

this

to save

(

)

;

(

signing Plates.

Many of the best years ing

this

method and

of the author's

thousands of dollars.

the original

life

were devoted

cost of production

to perfect-

amounted

mZ^ly^G

Weiler Iiv^tr\ÂŁctorl | S

First First

Prize

Cup

Barcelona I9l2

Pri2e

Paris

Honot 1913

Pans 1913

Fust Prize Brussel

First prizes and

ternational celona,

( 1

First Prize

Roma

1912

cup of honor awarded

European Exhibition,

Paris.

to S.

1913

G. Weiler, designer,

1913; Rome, 1913;

M2, for the designing, cutting and

in the In-

Brussels, 1912; Bar-

fitting of first class

ladies'

garments.

Page Fifteen

..,-'

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I:!',.-

..-'

"W^il^:r* Iiv<rtr>xet ;.

",_.•.":•

.-:"'.'

"";;'!.''

.'•

m\-

....

••

.--•

,;' .•'- ;

.••,.;•.

I Cold Medals

Roma

I'll

;

Cold Pan

Medali 1013

.old

P»n

M.-.l.il '

191

tik

Gold I

mii.

Medal i

.[i

1913

Cold Medali Barcelona

1912

Medal Btuuel

Gold medals awarded national

Exhibition,

ing, cutting

and

1912

G. Weiler, designer, 1912 and 1913 in the Enter London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona for design

to S.

Paris,

fitting of lirst class ladies'

garments.

Page

s '<

Z5*±v

jfc

^VV^e

ile jr

-••-.

£>&&£&•

*•'

Ixv<r»t: rox

"'-

ot •

•

Diplomas awarded

to S. G. Weiler, designer, International Exhibition, Paris, London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona, for designing, cutting and fitting of first class ladies' garments.

1912 and 1913

in the

Page Nineteen

CITY OF

KINGDOM OF SPAIN

BARCELONA

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. MANUFACTURES

ARTS - INDUSTRIES

CIUDADDE BABGELO'rlA

Under the Patronage ol the Offinal Corporation 'I'mondeProductoresdeE^panaparael Fomentodela Export.icion

MIQteiBWUM'ttWIHB jBiVWiiWO ihhaihi

DECEMBER. To

be held at the

MARCH.

1912.

1913.

UNIVERSITY OF INDUSTRY

and

GARDENS

Commissioner General

Mr Max

Kaiser

24.

HOLBORN. LONDON, EC

19th February 1913.

Telephone 179 Holborn Telegraphic Address "Patenovum

Weiler Esj., 246 West Water St

MILWAUKEE Wis, S.

Dear Sir, I

have much pleasure to inform you that

have

been told by the Juries of the INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS at

BRUSSELS and BARCELONA to express to you their congratulation: to your exceptional skill in designing,

cutting and fitting

of the costumes which you sent to the Exhibitions. It

is a special pleasure for me, as I had similar

remarks made to ne from the International Juries at former

Exhibitions, PARIS and LONDON, who also greatly admired your

Exhibits and remarked that your costumes are certainly the very best at the Exhibition.

Trusting that you will be pleased to get to know about this. I

remain,

Yours faithfully THE COMMISSIONER CENERAL.

Letter from the director of the International Exhibition of London: Payc Twenty-one

p lgTKe

W^eilef

Irv<r>

ÂĽ

tr\ccto

*>1 ff]

CONTENTS //

Use the Weiler Block.

Block of Skirts and Dress Sleeves Block of Coats or Waists, Tailored Sleeves ami Designing Blocks

Page 24 25

nstruction

Measurements for Tailors and Dress Makers low to use the same measurement on the W eiler Block Cutting System for Waist

50-31

The New

Finished Block without Cutting System A complete Single Breasted Semi-fitted Tailored Coat System for Sleeves The New Tailored Sleeve Block Without System

32-33

Complete Finished Sleeve Dress and Waist Sleeve System

W)-41

42-4o

The New Dress Sleeve Block without System

44-45

Waist or Dress Sleeve Skut System The New Skirt Blocks without System

46-47

Finished Skirt

52-53

>4-.v;

36-3!

58-39

4S-4

50-51

Cutting, Fitting and Tailoring Section.

Fitting of ladies'

Garments

54-55

Cutting

56 ;_

Tailoring

Lining and Trimming Different Styles of

Garments

C'nt Different Styles of If, lists.

Tailored Coats, Sleeves, Skirt and Capes.

Plain Waist

60-61

Shirt and Shirt Waist

J-63

Apron

64-65

Fitted Waist Waist with Seam from Shoulder to Bust Front Waist Front Shoulder with Seam. Baek without \ Complete Tailored Coat. Hip measure 40 inches Waist Front and Baek with Seam Panel Front and Panel Baek Tailored Coat Jit fitted Waist 1

Finished Coat, tight

fitted

hack.

Semi-fitted front

66-67 68-69 70-71

72-73

74"

;

76-77

78-79 80-81

Riding Habit Coat. Hip measure Raglan Style Waist Raglan Stj le Overcoat

Kimono

4(1

^2-8.^

inches

84-85 86-8

Front and Back Kimono Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist, without shoulder scams Extra large si/e Tailored Coat Diagram showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip, Finish Coat

Instruction

for

Style

How

88-89 90-91

92-93 94-95

Cut Different Sleeves. 96 98-99

Plain Tailored Sleeve

Tailored Sleeve with front Seam turned

Plaited Sleeve

100-101

Rafflan Sleeve

102-103

Ciil .inJ

Make

Different Capes.

104-10:

Cape without Shoulder seam Cape with Shoulder seam High Collar Cape

106-107

How

108-109

Skirt

Cut Different

Skirts.

110-111

Back and Front

Skirt without Side

112-113

Seam

Panel Front and Panel Back

114-11

Seven piece Skirt

116-1

Plaited Skirt

118-119

Riding Breeches Ridine Habit Skirt

120-121

How

122-123

Design With the JVeiler Block.

Designing Suit and Long Coat Designing Dress Finished Designing

'26

nty-three

^C5

.--

—-.."-••--*

-.:?. ---.

•.'

•

:: --

•

Block of Skirt and Dress Sleeve

The two

top methods show

the

front

.uul

back

skirt block which is made from 56 to 62 hip measure. Pick out the even numbers according to the hip measdeure, connect together .\nA make the skirt as long as sired. '

The

shows

other method

dress

waist

sleeve

block which is made from 32 to 52 inches bust measure. out the l.a\ this block on any part ol the paper and pick sleeve dress the and even numbers and connect together is

read}

ook

page

•-•.-•"•••"'••••'"~

7Ke WeilefliVcPt j^>x o !

i: .V

.'.

r'Jty*Xf&?-i

;-.',.'

fc&f

Weiler Iiy^rtrMctor Sleeve and Designing Block

Block of Coat or Waist,

The

top

method shows the front and hack

of coat or waist, 32 to

52 bust measure.

jii.-ÂťÂť4

The block on the lower 52 bust measure.

The The

sleeves

tit

right side

left side

The

a perfect sleeve

from 32

into the armholes perfectly. is

a tailored

which you can design any other suit

shows

suit that

designing model and from

styles.

center cut shows a dress model.

be used same

way

as the

model.

Look page 2

Pagi

Twenty-five

v.--.-^.S--^--»:. .-:.

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•.

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•..

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, -

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- .^-...-^.r-^^-^t^v.r-.--

_--"."-

•

;

•

Instructions

The Weiler Block The

arranged with

a size scale of

32 to 52 bust.

Sleeves are the same.

Skirts range

For

from 36

62 hip measure.

the Coat, the center

line with the dip oi the

Draw

back to center front should be on an even

armhole.

your cutting paper and lay the block, the two straight lines under the armholes are directly

a straight line across

thereon, so that

opposite each other.

Now

number

your width of bust and mark through the dotted holes with your pencil point, being careful not to mark the wrong numbers. Remove the block when you have placed all the proper dots, and connect same. locate the

Thus you

for

have finished the arrangement without that unpleasant strain caused by systems, as they are complicated and uncertain.

will

block enables you, with utmost ease and safety, to quickly draft

loose or tight fitted garments, nos. Skirts, Sleeves,

will

Aprons

Long

Coats, Raglans, Dresses.

Kimo-

or any type of Sporting Garments.

By merely devoting slight attention to my simple instructions, you become agreeably surprised at the remarkable results.

Should you have any style or figure which is not normal, take the correct measurements and use as shown in instruction book on next page.

z^±v V<-

—

m cto "VX^e-ll^rr— IiycPtrxi M f

x» _

;

Measure nu sabs

iccess

?samt

block

a s

that is

-"."

wJ ^

This shows

how

to use the

Follow diagrams See the

measurements on the block

closely.

fitting section.

-nine

—

UlZTlve hy

Wei ler :

—

I rv cT>

~~:

iir i

Cutting System ^

iere st

—

norm;

ersizes ntal lin«

Uel

liiw

the top

the bust measure.

ck g

-allel

On back line g The

n the fi

stleng

in at top

On lint

back 2

line -

line 7

ches

this

inch.

tip

ches

iches iches

n top end

;

and

iches,

iches

leek.

line

ont lengi

Q incite

leng

Use p

iches

•

inch anc.

irh the

ne in

le sa

>ack

he?.

nhole depdi

it S

\ -

... n

:te

•

armh

iches

inch from each sidt

and

am. id see the d

stem curt

the under

iches

N con: ect as

un.

cross eat

Serence

Waists

for

ot -.. —

:r >j:

t~~

this

.'.•' '«

'V"-

"Weiler IiVtTtrMct >i

3*3

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;

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Thirty-one

The New Finished Block without Cuttting System

This diagram shows how the Weiler Block may be adjusted for large or small sizes, from 32 to 52 bust measure.

all

complete size of any kind of coat or waist, mark through the numbers which correspond with your bust measure, and

join together.

All sizes are obtained

The waist.

Page Thirty-two

instruction

book

the

tells

same way.

how

make any

style of coat or

:£ ^ile^rr* IiVcPt *

:"'.

'/.'.' •

rxcctorl l

Page Thirty-three

Mzy±v -•

frr

± :k?aj: o <

••••• -

Complete Single Breasted Semi Fitted Tailored Coat This diagram shows that any be made with the Weiler Block.

style of tailored coat

See pages 74, 75, 76, 77 of instruction book. inches on front for buttons and button holes.

For double breasted coat two inches

Look how

the collar

extra.

designed on the neck.

can easily

Allow two

t.<.*

y^;

1 ;

% rfm^^&m&^^M^^m&m-k^^^m?.^

'Weiler Irc<ptr

â&#x20AC;¢

m9S

Fa^e Thirty-five

,-•••

—

.,: ... ...'«;'.; :

•

••:. • -''• -

•- '

•. ,

l, ;^. t

System With to

Draw draw

this,

On plus

From beginning

horizontal line across the top.

down

parallel line

top line go

_»

• m'.-

-•'

the side.

inches,

which

of bust

measure

inch.

a a

fitting

?>2.

:.^: ':v^,'J

':.>"-:., ;<.*..t-.'

from 36 down to 32, armhole, when size

his block,

produces a perfect of same corresponds w ith bust size. and up

for Sleeve.

Mr. Weiler made

this

''-•••::?^'-.- :•: •--.> -r.-;

Divide top

Go down

line in half.

on same 2

the location of elbow,

/ l

indies, 3j

now go down

and 13^4, which

or any length desired

to 23,

for sleeve.

Draw

from each

straight line put

of the

above numbers,

shown on diagram. Connect the

this

on top with line

line 2

line 3]

cnA

come back

top sleeve line 2 line 13]

bottom

inches, to about

;

Connect

;

inch and

;

; j

inches.

under sleeve which comes together with [

_•.

come backward from

in front,

^o backward

J-

front 2'

and 7 inches.

inches, and on

;

go backward 4 inches and

all

inch from front.

inch.

From

line.

the end o[

come hack

This

pointed line go up

little

inch above the 2'

on front.

l S /2

the parts as

inches.

shown on diagram.

tliis

-V

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Page Thirty-neve

The New

Tailored Sleeve Block without Cutting System.

As for the coat front and back, mark through the numbers which correspond with the bust size. Connect all the pencil dots, and the sleeve

ready.

Follow instructions be

Page Thirty-eight

made

properly

tit

in the

book, and

into the

all

armhole.

kinds of sleeves

may

i^y^-sy-'j-a-i-vy.-''.

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->\

-:---- '-'-

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WeilerliVcrtr -

Page Thirty-nim

MZJK e Weil ef Irv<ptr\ic torr^

Complete Finished Sleeve The

Forty

pointed lines show

how

the sleeve looks

when

it is

ready.

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Page Forty-one

Dress and Waist-Sleeve System. Draw

parallel line

horizontal line across the top.

down

From

draw

go down

this

the side.

top line go forward

inches.

side line

inches.

The

length

Connect

this line

l l

Âť

with

inches.

go down from 7

2 inches on front.

Connect

/'â&#x20AC;˘

rty-two

shown on diagram.

and 4 inches.

bottom

^ ^vt-y^ai

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ry^-v- -''V-

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^--

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Pa<7e Forty-three

p |gy±ve V '-;;>;..• l^j>

•

"W^eiler

,'.-•

"•••

-••.

•'•

The New Dress

:"•'"-

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7 ^-'v ,

:..•-.

..^

;

;.^-.-.^v;^v>-^-sv"^vrV

o tori >

-:.•;

Sleeve Block without System.

the side parallel line, the cloth including the top of always lavs folded double, but the bottom can be made as sleeve, long or wide as the stvle demands.

For fancy \\

iy-four

;»

dress or waist,

idth on sleeve bottom.

always change the length and

V- ;..;•.•"

3K m&z. z*&m$&

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Fa^e Forty- fire

• V^-^y

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--'^

^V\^eiler Itv<rtr>j:ctor| WZT±ve — *^ J]

jfa__

-—

— — —;___ ;

Waist This sleeve

The

made The top

usually

or Dress Sleeve made

style of this sleeve

in halt

or three-quarter length.

being shorter than ordinary,

may

or 2 inches larger on bottom than the block allows.

stationary.

This sleeve

always cut

one piece.

In placing sleeve in armhole, the sleeve seam must go for-

ward

Forty-six

inch from the under armhole coat seam.

t: r

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Forty-St

"Weilear Iiv^lrrox o to g]

p l^ive

Skirt System. With

diagram, Mr. Weiler

this

block

in.uk- his

measure.

lip

Draw

From

horizontal line across the top.

down

parallel line

Go down

draw

this

the side.

on side,

2-vj

_.,

_â&#x20AC;˘

inches, and continue to

the length of skirt.

top go

come backward

4-'

Divide top

which equals

From inch,

inches.

halt,

and go down

one-half your waist measure, plus

]

inch to get your regular

_â&#x20AC;˘

inch,

inches.

6'_.

;

line 11'

less

one-half hip measure, plus /> inch. l

forward on same inch,

line 7

Line

Cut out if

ure, less

skirt

_.,

inch.

on side seams go backward

inch.

inch from between the two side seam lines, but

s is

from back, one-half hip meas-

foin both of these together.

go forward

line

made with

side seam.

Connect

Draw

parallel line to the desired length of skirt.

Connect

Page Forty-eight

3J/4

come forward one-half your waist measure, which equals 5] inches. 4

Come

onl\

inches and connect with

ine.

From

one-half your hip measure, and from here

;

all

with line

the parts as

on back.

shown on diagram.

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Forty-nine

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Weiler The New

rox etc

Skirt Blocks without

This shows the front part of

skirt in 36 to

System

62 hip measure.

Merelj mark through the numbers which correspond with the hip

measure and

Make

join the dots together.

the skirt to length desired.

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Skirt Blocks without

System

This shows the back part of skirt, which is made in the same way as front. Join front and back together to make any kind of skirt with or without side seam.

Fifty-one

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Finished Skirt This shows you a complete front, with or without side seam.

Four additional inches

skirt

panel hack, and

are required for any kind of

or plait on the hack.

See pages 28 and

of instruction hook.

panel

seam

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Pace Fl fhi-lli

Fitting of Ladies' Garments. you do the fitting, and have the sewing done by others, when an alterarequired, call the tailor into the fitting room and show him what changes his will enable him to easily understand how to make the alteraare needed. If

tion

tions.

stem in the world, however expensive, that can always without a try-on. It a lady's figure is not normal, it is impossible to tit her properly without he teacher or salesman oi am system, who claims it can be done, try-on.

There is \\o titter or guarantee perfection oi a

tit,

misrepresents. of the so-called systems invariably requite one or a normal figure, and by taking into consideration the large you can judge tor yourseli that the systems are not sate. \ll

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

more fittings for number of misfits,

garments yon can, because practice and experience w ill make you a perfect fitter of any type of figure. Most mistakes can easily be corrected it the garment is placed on the perIn this way, should the figure not be son so that it hangs evenlj at both sides. regular, you can see w hich side to take in and which to let out, wherever neces-

Make

all

the

sary.

Also follow the same plan on the shoulders, in order to see which is the correct line for any figure. \ ou know fitting is the principle featute Fitting Knowledge of System. Ho you not recall that often times when you ha\ e in the making of a garment. person, one would tit perfectly, while the other tor same the made two suits This has been the experience of most cuttets proved to be a complete misfit. and is proof positive that systems cannot be relied upon. My Block does away with all uncertainty. It has a size seale of 52 to 52 1'he si/e seale oi Skirt Block is 36 to (12 bust, w ith corresponding sleeve sizes. If you wish to use the odd numbers, whieh are not show n on the hip measure. Block, take those numbers nearest to \ our bust measure, and cut your pattern Plaee the odd numbers between the numbers latget or smaller accordingly. on the block. My Block guarantees the perfect lines. Any si/e and style can be made from the same. As each person has a different figute, be sure to take the measure eareI'his fully, and use same as directed on pages 28 and 20 oi insttuction book. obtain the position. correct si/e and will show you how to Should the person be largIf the front is high, the measure w ill be more. book will show you everything according to corer or smaller than normal, this rect measures on pages 28 and 20. Prominent, high bust, makes large front, and smallet across the back. HolWhen back is round, the front shoulder part is low front makes large back. shorter, the back shoulder part longer, and it is always hollow aeross the chest between the two shoulder fronts. With the correct length, width and measures, and proper attention to the fitting, everything can be made perfectly.

|Z^Âąve

Weiler

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Fitting of Ladies' Garments. garment has no seam on the center back, for a person with round Press the center back round and shrink the back, shape it in the tailoring. same on both sides. Hold in the back shoulder slightly more than for a normal coat. Always baste the sleeves in for fitting, so you can see the proper elbow and full length. Mark the sleeve on the right place, because if it is set too far backward, when the wearer moves her arms forward the sleeves will bind and the armhole will cut, while the back will wrinkle and appear too small. If the sleeve is set in too far forward, the same trouble will occur with the If the

front.

Always place

the sleeve in the armhole, according to the person's build. not finish the collar for fitting, because if the shoulder needs changing there will thus be needless extra work. Merely pin a canvas collar on the coat for fitting and shape it to the neck.

Finish your collar after the fitted canvas, and place on the neck as specified by the marks. Wide sailor or fancy collars are made the same way, but larger or smaller, as the styles

demand.

too long, you can easily alter it by raising up the back of the shoulder. If the waist line is short, just reverse this rule. If the coat falls away at the bottom in front, you can fix it by raising up the front shoulder, but make the armhole deeper in same proportion, so it will not be too high. If armhole is too deep, it seriously affects the fit of coat, as it doesn't permit This alteration can be made by raisthe person to raise her arm high enough. ing the shoulder to the necessary degree. When coat is raised at top, let down a like amount at bottom, and bust point. If the lapels stand out too much, do not attempt to work them in, as certain If the waist line

kinds of material will not stand it. Lapels can be made any length desired, if you have the collar in the right location, because the set of the collar affects the length and shape of the lapel. If the top lapel is too high, from raising too much on shoulder, cut down the top lapel on neck portion, and put the collar on accordingly.

Skirt Fitting. It is very important to place the skirt on the person so it hangs evenly on both sides. This permits you to see where the figure is not normal, and take However, be careful not to alin or let out wherever necessary on the seam.

low the skirt to lose its lines. Always cut the skirt length to the floor, then mark evenly all around the bottom, at the proper distance from floor to obtain the length of skirt which

customer desires. Waist line can be made in any height to suit you. If high waist line is preferred, put the belt around the person's waist, and finish the skirt onto the same. Page

Fifty-fiv<

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Cutting

Before cutting broadcloth, velvet, plush and all fabrics that have nap. sec that the nap is smoothed down. Velveteen should be cut

ith

the

nap up.

Material having no nap can be cut either way.

However, for striped material, place your pattern so that stripes match perfectly on back, front, sleeve, top collar and facing. When using silk, if you do not cut each part of coat and skirt the same way, the finished garments will vary in shade. 1

oid trouble

when working on

the garments, be sure to

sponge

woolen and cotton cloths thoroughly before cutting. Also sponge thoroughly the canvas, interlining and tape. Allow desired width for seams on shoulder, side seam, neck and bottom.

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Tailoring Shape the coat collar

straight or round, according to the ladies'

figure.

Shape the collar round for a stout figure, so that when the lady stands erect, the coat will not wrinkle across the back. For slender figure and long neck, make the collar perfectly straight. For a regular tailored coat, the center back on the waist line must be well shaped with the press iron. All the inside seams should be stretched rather than clipped, so the garment can easily be enlarged if necessary. For high bust figure, the edge of waist line should be well stretched. not give enough, cut the canvas on the front waist line about 6 inches deep, and spread it about I inch, to make room for an extra piece of canvas, which should be placed in such a way as to cause the waist to shape in properly under the bust line. If the cloth will

Always set the sleeve in the back part of armhole Mold the front sleeve on the shoulder part so it will be a

little

short.

little full.

the canvas together exactly the same way as the cloth. seams on front must match perfectly with top cloth seams.

Sew

Canvas

Always sew

the under collar by hand, because if the canvas is stitched to the cloth by machine, the sewing thread will break while being stretched. Silk lining cannot be pressed while

will

Never put show it.

damp.

the jacket lining in too snug, because the outside of coat

Join the different parts of the coat together evenly in order to effect the true balance.

The

on the shoulder seam part should always be than on other parts of neck.

collar

slightly fuller

Always

set in a little full the

to a like degree, the

Join wrinkle.

at the waist line,

the

skirt

If the skirt

from flaring

second front

same portion on waist

at bust point,

them on

stretch

line.

seams together evenly, otherwise the

has plaits, tape

and

set in

skirt

will

the inside, to prevent the skirt

out. Patjc Fifty-seven

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way

cut plain lining, lay the pattern any

When

o to

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and Trimming

Linino"

IrVcy^liJ^Aj:

using striped lining, see that

excepting: on the bias.

matches perfectly

center

hack, front and sleeves.

Place plait on center back lining.

Allow plenty of lining so that if coat should be too small, the seams, and bottom, may be let out. Use rather a little extra lining than not enough.

Cut \

front canvas straight.

on the

bias.

Cut second

front

and bust point can-

Bottom of sleeve likewise.

For under collar, cut the canvas as collar can be stretched round as wanted.

much

bias as possible, so the

The under lining for coat and sleeve must be cut the way the cloth runs.

For Cut im

the skirt placket straight,

to the skirt.

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Skirt.

and sponge

all

the braid before

sewing

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AVeiler Irv<rtr\jo toJFI

Different Styles of Garments. Dress.

Use

the Weiler Block in the

same way

for waist

any kind of dress, because it is only necessary skirt on the waist line, to make a dress.

and

skirt, as for

connect the waist and

For a one-piece Princess Dress, use the waist block, and make the same way as any other fitted garment, in any length of dress desired. See directions for fitted garments in the instruction book. For a long coat, use the numbers on block which correspond with Make the coat from waist line down evenly all the measurement. around the bottom, and in any length desired.

Fancy Garments.

Any

present or future style can be

made from the Weiler Block. new style proportions, and cut

change, merely follow the your seams and place plait or gathering accordingly. If the styles

For Kimono and Raglan instructions,

see pages 13, 15

and 16

the book.

Norfolk

Suits.

wanted with yoke, make as style shown. Cut the paper where the yoke on the coat or skirt is to be, allow a seam on both ends of cloth and sew together at the portion where the yoke comes. If strips and belts are needed, make same two inches wide and place them where the If

style indicates.

Patch pockets should be placed

10, 11 or 12 inches

below the arm-

hole.

Page Fifty-nine

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Plain Waist.

w:\

made the same way, take measback of neck, over the shoulder, the highest where you see the heavy line, ,\nd A

size of waist or coat

urement from part of bust,

will

Repeat

eoiitcr

now draw

this

a line 2}

from B

Front length B

inches

on waist

The sleeve front seam for

all

meet

letter

line.

always the same

in to

sizes

as the

measurement.

should he 2 inches for-

ward, from the under armhole seam.

From B

inches.

x Place an under armhole side seam on waist line 2 /> inches forward, and continue the same to of waist measure Mid

plus J inches.

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Page Sixty-one

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Shirt and Shirt Waist. To of bust

cut a shirt or shirtwaist,

measurement, and draw

locate on the block the size

a line

around exactly the same

for a coat.

At hack of neck on the dot, and front of neck on the dor, And all around the armhole, go in J inches, as shown on the dia-

gram.

From

the waist line on the center of hack, go out 2 inches

and run the

line

down

to the

desired length of garment.

For an extra large shirt, locate the dot at bottom of waist line, then go inches back from the same, and connect the under armhole point with the enlarged portion, which will get the !

shirt 6 inches larger.

The

shirt can be buttoned

on the shoulder or

Front, back and sides should

waist line to the bottom.

1-tlCO

all

in the front.

be the same length from the

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Sixty-three

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Apron. For the apron, we proceed the same as for shirt. apron is to fit snugly, the waist line remains natural.

the

Make

_â&#x20AC;˘

the apron any length, hut the top should always re-

main the same. For loose apron make larger line and under armhole, side seam. Button

in front or

also

on back waist

on shoulder.

include pockets, always go

armhole and

Sirty-four

the

wanted one-half form fitted, trace inch in, all around neck and on armhole. If wanted loose, 2 inches around neck, and an inch on armhole. It

the

inches forward

down

from

12 inches

the side seams.

from under

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Fitted Waist. Any kind

When

>.han.

fitted

coat or waist can

made from

this

laid out, and the lines made. from center back oi neck over the Draw in a straight line from the bust

the patterns arc

measure

the bust height

shoulder

the trout.

height point, then go

on same line to the

;

this line 2]

inches,

now continue

from which point go

inches,

inch

higher up.

From bottom â&#x20AC;˘

inches

waist length

as at the bust

height

go in same distance Also come forward from

front,

line.

and now you have 5 inches Take in one-half the space that remains between the first and the last 2lj inch spaces, and on the same u o backward and forward if the 2 inch, joining together w ith the top line of bust height width oi waist is 24 inches, half on front as before figured, ;

under armhole waist

line _

inches,

and

inches,

inch between the two

makes 6 inches or one-half

which

together

oi the half waist measure.

the width of the waist

notches,

more or

less

than 24 inches,

from the 2] \ inches. However, the space in front is permanenth 2 inches, the space between always remains inch. On the back go in 3 inches from the center back waist line, then lay up the same to under armhole side seam line and go out until you secure the other 6, or the other one. half oi half waist measurement, between the 3 inch spaces and the waist measure, cut out as high as vou want and the waist measure is completed. figure accordingly

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Sixty-si

m Waist With Seam From Shoulder To The Bust Point. Whenever a

lady having

difficulty.

semi-fitted or loose coat or vest

a a

prominent

Measure

bust,

the bust at

required for

same can be made without its

highest point and go

half and

join together with bust

Divide the shoulder in go inch out at either side from the middle shoulder line, and join the two lines together with the bust point as shown on diagram. inches. point.

Now

In sewing these seams together see that bust portion

pointed, as

From fitted

preferable to have

this point

down

not

waist line the front can be

made

or loose.

Below bust line la\ the cloth on dotted seams, or cut exactly in accordance with the style.

You can to

slightly round.

out

place this seam to any place desired, from the neck

bust point, or from the front under armhole line to the bust

Be careful, however, to replace at both sides the amount you cut out from between the shoulders to the bust point. point.

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Page Sixty-nine

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Waist Front Shoulder With Seam. \at

shown on diagram

both sides take out

;

--•::;

At the back go

divide the shoulder

half,

and

inch and join together with bust point.

manner

that bust will not be pointed.

down

inches from shoulder point.

Divide the back on under armhole

in 3

inches on the waist line.

line in half.

Put the

3 incites

on the

of waist measureunder armhole waist line, then come hack Now joint together as shown in diagram. inch. ment, and .

•

;..-.

Back Without.

Replace the same at both sides as shown on diagram. Go in on inches, the same amount as at waist line from center front. 2} 2'_farther. inches Join together with the bust point, now go in bust point in such a

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Seventy-ont

Hip Measure

Complete Tailored Coat.

40.

have shown on former diagram instructions for this style of waist, and now my purpose is to give you necessary details to complete the coat. 1

draw

First full

length oi front.

From

To to

this gives

get the center hack, go out

from the same

should be

hack go down S inches, on the front you the depth of hip.

the waist line on

and

7 inches,

line

and the

line the full length of hack,

a parallel

From A

inch from the parallel

inches to A, because the hack

inch larger on hip line than on waist line. in

2]A inches, same as

to B,

1 '

add together the

making

at top.

inches.

From B go forward sevens,

;

inches,

inch front, the

all

inches,

from 3]

also 7 inches,

inch hack and the

which

one-half

now two

the

hip

measure. In order

to get a

larger or smaller hip measure, leave the

hack and front stationary. If

hip measure

Back

3 )A inches.

Front

inches.

he larger or smaller than 40 inches, the

and from C to end oi ~. which points give you the side seams, should he made wider or narFrom waist line rower, in accordance with the hip measure. to length oi coat every seam should he made evenly long. dotted lines from

For

collar, button

end of

and button holes, look

pages 34-35.

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Waist Front and Back With Scam. Always

use the regular block and measure.

the bust height line go in 2j

_•

inches.

At bottom on

waist line the same.

Place .1111.

2 inches.

shown on measurement, plus

inches on under armhole side seam, as

and go forward If

more room

oi the waist

wanted

for the bust,

will be pro-

vided between the notches below the bust. Join the dotted center line at the shoulder to the bust point. Cut out inch from each side at top of shoulder, and as per 1

gram, replace the same on armhole and on neck. If bust

not very large, of course, take out

If bust

less.

hollow, do not take awaj anything, but use the diagram without

any changes.

Shoulder go forward

back as with fore shoulder, divide in half and inch, adding the amount to the armhole.

At back, go

inches on waist line.

inches on under armhole side seam and

measure, plus

\ w

For slendei

out anything on back shoulder

of v

inch.

join all the lines together as

where shoulder

Place the same

come back

divided.

shown on diagram. is

s< 1

unnecess

cut

eave this plain, the same as

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Page Seventy-five

M |zyÂąve

^W^eiler Iiv<rtr>j:ctorl ^

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Panel Front and Panel Hack Tailored Coat. same arrangement as on diagram 75 and finish in same manner at bottom and hip line as on diagram 73. Observe carefully how the diagrams look. For collar ami button ami I

se the

button holes look

pages 34-35.

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Seventy-seven

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Tight Fitted Waist. At depth

Now

armhole

continue

Line

inch farther.

inch and under armhole point

from center back 3 inches. Divide the space between this in

in halt.

At back on armhole go down tinue to _'

From

inches.

•* (

this con-

inches.

inch diagConnect and 3 with dotted Line. Run a dotted line, to secure from middle the the round of onal Line seam line, as shown on diagram. ;

_•

At bottom of back on waist line go

draw in, producing inches, which gives width of back.

the hack 1 I

a better

Now

•

inches farther.

lit.

which makes

inch,

_•

From Cut out

Cut out

_•

point go

this )

inches.

Now

inch.

in J'j inches, aw^I you have the waist measure.

Round out each make a better fit. For increase

under armhole

large measurement, add

the

space according

should always remain

nty-eight

of the J

1 |

inches.

enough

lines

to the 2'

the si/e wanted.

inch, to

inches to

The back

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Seventy-nine

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Iiv^trxtc torN

Finished Coat. Tight Fitted Back. Same

former

instructions apply for back and trout, as on

diagrams, excepting that

Semi-Fitted Front.

tight fitting coat should be cut in

parts.

out

;

From

back.

inch

the back, hip line, to obtain the outline of

this point

in £4

inch

A, which gives the back

side seam.

from

•"..ure B, by dividing the distance

halt.

from B go backward inch and from this point arc backward and forward in each direction 2] _ inches, which gives the width :

of the second side piece.

Be sure length.

from waist to bottom are of equal hip line must always be _ inch more

that all the lines

The back width

than that on waist

line.

measure is make the size from the If hip

i-'i

be larger or smaller than +0 inches,

-^ on second side piece at hip line, acfrom the B- ^. But cordingly larger or smaller, instead of 2 :

between

and

always divide the same

_•

to get B.

For collar and button and button holes look

pages 34-35.

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Hill

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Hip Measure 40

Riding Habit Coat.

The instructions for the top are similar given for

those alreadj

tight fitting coat.

inches and from this J inches, At bottom 4 inches, and join together.

front waist line, go in

instead of 2

From

inches.

_â&#x20AC;˘

bottom, go

shown

waist line as

;

inches and join together with

in 4'_.

diagram.

The hack width on waist line is inches. On hip inches, just inch more, as on the waist line. '

; 1

line

;

From

inches go out

; 1 ;

inches from A.

cated between these two

and forward 2 ond side piece.

From

inches.

Add

inch.

From

each direction.

This gives the sec-

edge front from waist

waist line to bottom

C: B is loarc backward

inches from

inch lines.

inches

1 |

inches,

line

top

for button and

button holes. If

a slit

desired

back,

; 1 (

inches of additional cloth

from the waist line to bottom. bottom must be of equal length.

will be required

from waist

Allow more cloth on hip as a

Cut out

inch about

less

-two

riding habit

nary coats, 2

;

All the lines

line of riding habit than for ordi-

demands more

fullness at the seat.

inches deep on neck.

hip

more or

than 40 inches,

make

the rives according!)

more or

less.

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Raglan Style Waist. First take out on block the size desired, to

comph

with bust

Connect back and trout of line at depth of under armOn front portion at armhole. From shoulder pointof neck go up inch and in inch. on hack go down Jinches inches. On back on front 3| shoulder point go up > inch. measure.

hole with both shoulder points '

_•

;

From

center oi under armhole. go forward and

each direction about

Draw a line down Go down a^ain .\nd draw regular armhole

on diagram.

Now

line.

You ma\

Now

inches go upward 2] inch line from each side of the connect all the numbers as shown

inch.

backward

inches.

then produce from

this,

any style raglan

coat or waist.

However,

to cut a

and instead of

ch,

If the bust

point

larger coat, instead of

allow

: -

inch allow

inch around the armhole.

very large, take out from shoulder

and replace the same

to the

bust

per instructions for other coats.

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Raglan Style Overcoat. Follow same instructions

As stated before, allow around the armhole.

At back

down

on diagram 85.

instead of

of waist line go out

ami

; i

instead of

Join together with neck

'<. 1 !

desired length of coat.

On under armhole the

front

line.

waist line, go backward 2 inches from Also go forward 2 inches from the back, and

join these together

wanted.

The

first

from under armhole point to length of coat The back line repline represents the back.

resents the front part.

Add

4 inches

double breasted, for single breasted

About 4 inches below lapel

per diagram.

[

top of neck, cut out

Making

front

to be

inches.

collars, see

complete finished semi-fitted tailored coat

edge

inch under the

the page where shown.

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Style

— Front and

Hack.

This diagram shows how easil) anj kimono sleeve pattern can be made from the Weiler Block.

kimono

I'wn different

shown

sleeve coats are

The

here.

top has loose armhole, and the oilier slight!) fitted armhole.

diagram; it is very simple, requiring absoThe back and front of kimono sleeve coats lutelj no system. The single crossed notch represents cannot be cut together. loose armhole. On back from armhole shoulder point go up inch. From the under armhole depth line go out !.>'.• inches. On this line go up 2^j inches and down 5] inches. From under armhole point go down 2 inches and connect as shown on diagram. The single crossed notch on back should come direct!) under the single crossed notch on front, for which follow same he front shoulder armhole point must directions as for back. remain the same as on block. |

nst

follow the

The 22 inches on top sleeve is the length can make according to your measure.

The double

hut you

oi sleeve,

crossed notch slight!) fitted armhole with

similar to back outline, square up 4 inches

line

rom the shoulder and

neck point.

From armhole shoulder with line

point go up

inch, connecting

Draw From same

This gives the top sleeve and shoulder seam.

down

to the

length of sleeve measure, 26'j-

Curve rom neck inch. armhole shoulder point go down down to 26] inches. shoulder point, drawing the line through inches from under armhole point. ro down 33 '

(

From

2(>

sleeve width. a

]

square

Connect

down

to 6}

and

inches,

which gives

the half

under armhole point, with

line 13 inches long.

Round convenientl)

the line about raise

inch below

her arm.

Adhere

'•

so wearer max more same instructions for

The crossed double notches are guides front. matching and putting together the back and rom.

for

properl)

must be directl) over the single notches on back, and same rule should be applied with double Single notches on

notches.

lhty-eighf

front

'At

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Kimona

Instructions For

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Weiler Iivcrtr\£otor| — — ^ ^

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Kimono

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...

Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist

....

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....,

Square 6 inches

inches, or length of sleeve desired.

to left

and 6 inches

both under armhole points, go

to right of 23

_•

inches to left and 3]

inches to right, and connect each with the 6 inch points

which are the

sides,

from

bottoms,

sleeve

about

inch point

somewhat longer than

points at either side, because the shoulder

material.

nety

inches

both

long

The

Letter

represents back.

Letter

represents front.

——r*J -*i

Without Shoulder Seams.

Put back and tnmt shoulders together on any portions of From neck draw a straight line down on

your drawing paper. the shoulder seam 23}

the 6 inch

requires this extra

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Extra Large Sizes Tailored Coat. This diagram shows that the

same way

as anj

more room

get

coat of size 50 bust can be

and

\-\

shoulder

{

Always