White 117 kenmore x

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The Object of This Book

Cet’tijficate cjf iatantee

is In provide you with complete directions for operating this sewing machine. We are extremely anxious that your investment in this machine re turns the utmost in satisfactory service. Therefore you are urged to read this book carefully and thor oughly iii order to familiarize yourself with the operation of this sewing machine, even though you tony be accustomed to using some other make. —

We guarantee to the original purchaser the sew ing head of this machine when used for normal family use to be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of twenty years from date of purchase. In the event that working parts prove to be defective in material or work manship, they will be replaced free of charge if the machine is returned to the nearest Sears or Simpsons-Sears retail or mail order store. In returning to a mail order store, be sure and pack securely. (Needles, belts, bobbins, shuttles, bulbs, or parts which wear out from natural use are ex cluded from the guarantee.)

We further guarantee all electrical equipment to be free from defects for a period of one year from date of purchase.

When referring to this guarantee or when writ ing us about your machine, always mention the model number.

We do not authorize any person or representative to make any other guarantee or to assume for us any liability in connection with the sale of this sewing machine other than those contained here in. Any agreements outside or contradictory to the foregoing shall be void and of no effect.

For ready reference record the number of your machine on this page.

Read Serial No. Model No.

Cabinet Model No.

To Install Sewing Machine Head On Cabinet luee the head on top of open cabinet and slide head hinge lug holes (Fig. 2) over round shanks of the two hinges attached to back of cut-out in top of cabinet. Tip head back and tighten head hinge set screws (Fig. 2) securely.

Pull bushing up on motor cord as near to the motor as possible and slip motor cord into slot at edge of bed plate and push bushing back into hole in bed plate (see Fig. 9). Unwind the extension cord inside the cabinet, plug into any base plug outlet, and the machine is ready for operation.

If machine is treadle operated, merely place leather belt around hand wheel drive pulley as of course there is no motor or electrical connections.

Date Delivered IMPORTANT GIVE PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO IMPOR TANT INFORMATION ON PAGES 11 AND 12.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. ond SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED a

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Oiling A sewing machine, like every other piece of machinery needs oiling to insure easy running and to prevent unneee sary wear of the parts which bear upon each other.

works underneath the bedplate, turn the I ‘ oil the oil to points as shown in Figure 2. back and apply On automatiC li-ft machines the thumb screw on the base of the arm must be taken out before plate near theturned back. bead c&fl be

Oil holes are provided in the arm of the machine for Parts which cannot be directly reached.

Depending on how frequently the machine is used deter. mines the oiling requirements. Moderate use 5 only require a occasional drop of oil at the points indicated on the ilins. trations shown.

r

OILL

OIL OIL

1 Figure 2

hAND

Cleaning Machine IF THE MACHINE RUNS HARD it is due to lack proper oiling of some bearings. Should the machine beco gummed from long standing or poor oil, apply kerosene to the bearings to remove the gum; then run the machine ri idly wipe clean and OIL THOROUGHLY WITH GO SE*ING MACHINE OIL before beginning to sew.

Occasionally place one drop of oil on tip of finger i apply around outer rim of shuttle, race, and center (C.P.) fig. 6.

HOLE COVER PLATE

Be sure to use ONLY Kenmore Sewing Machine

Figure 1

Two

Three

Threading The Machine, Upper Thread (See Fig. 3)

Your machine ShoUld be i POS1tjOfl for threading by turning the hand (the top Of the wheel wh tu from you) so that up (5, Fig. 3) is at the take its est point.

proper

Fgiire 3

Place a spool of thre the spool pin on top arm. Hold the ena of the of the thread in the left hand be.. tween the first finger thumb, then use the and hand (first finger and right to act as a tension thumb) on the thread, Next, the thread should pass under and in front oak one (1), then under of in back of hook two (2). and Next, downward and under point No. 3 from hook front to back.

Next, pull the thread up ward until it hooks into spring eyelet No. 4.

Next, Continue upward i to the hole in the takeup lever (5) from back to front.

Next, downward and hook thread into needle clamp thread guide 6 from back to front.

Next, into the eye of needle from left to right as you face the machine.

To Wind a Bobbin (See Figure 5 Page 6) on bobbin winder spindle as sha place the bobbin wheel with the left hand and turn the top hand the 1d 0 { 1 nut towards YOU. This will release the sew the clutch of the machine. Next, place a spool of thr inecmsm pin located on bed of machine directly be] the spool wheel. Next, take the end of the thread and the hand the tension plates on bobbin winder thread gui between it thread upward into eye of guide, then run end and nullthrough hole “B in bobbin. thread er pulley with the hand wheel bobbin-wind the Engage downward. Hold end of thread until shin lever “C” sufficiently to wind the thread around I have rn machine times; then break thread off at hole “B’ a bobbin several machine and bobbin winder viIl automatica contin to run proper amount of thread is wound. throw off when wound and removed; tighten After the bobbin isthe top of it from you while holdi turning by nut clutch with your left hand. the hand wheel machines proceed in the same mann On non.electriC

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for operation is furnished by foot trea except that power

Enlarged view of tension assembly showing thread. ing of auxiliary spring, as described on page 4.

(See enlarged view of tension assembly on page 5) Four

,

Five

OGLE BOBBIN

BOBBIN CASE

u

WINDER PULLEy

7x

SHUTTLE

CoNL xu

If STOP SCREW

Threading the Bobbin Case Hold bobbin case with thumb and first finger of let hand, with tension tongue (4) upright. Then place flI1e bobbin in cnse, starting thread into slot (1). Continue pull ing thread U to end of slot (2); then across to bottom o: slot (3) and upward until thread conies out at top of tensioz tongue (4). Leave about two inches of thread projecting.

Note carefully the way the bobbin case N Caution threaded before removing bobbin or unthreading.

Seven —

Sz

the Shuttle Race Remove Shuttle from

To Draw Up Lower Thread While holding loosely in the left hand, the end of

thread extending through eye of needle (three or inches), turn the top of hand wheel from :,OU OClcwiae) with the right hand, until the needle goes all the way do and cornea back up. The lower thread will fonn a loop °‘er the thread you are holding and come up through the nee.fle hole. Lead the ends of both threads back under the foot, keeping the upper thread in presser foot slot.

To Remove the Bobbin Case from Shuttle Turn hand wheel (clock. wise) until take-up (5, Fig. 3) is at its highest point Then remove the hand hole cover plate permitting YOU to reach down to bobbin.

Clasp the bobbin case with the thumb and first finger of your left hand as shown j Fig. 7. Then with the second finger lift up on latch “s” and the bobbin case can be readily removed.

Follow the same procedure in replacing the bobbIn case in shuttle.

gu

The hole in the center spindle inside the bottom case fits over the center pin of the shuttle, as shown in Fig. 6.

Eigkt

Pigur. 8

the hand hole cover plate and tip head First remove . Next, remove bobbin case as already ex hinges bACk on its turn the hand wheel (clockwise) until the iained. Next, is just entering needle plate hole. Then nele point of theend of latch G, shown in Fig. 8. This will release press rear race cover (Fig. 6)- so it may be readily removed the shuttle Pin H. Next, take hold of the center pin in from under Fig. 8) and it can be readily removed WITH shuttle iCP, OUT FORCE.

To Replace the Shuttle wheel until the point of the needle is just Turn the hand plate hole. With the thumb and first needle entering the hold the shuttle by the center pin band, left finger of the of the slotted holes, directly centers the so (CP, Fig. 8) other edge of the shuttle, are outer the in opposite each the driving pins (DP). When properly with line in exactly P point of shuttle will be almost directly lined U, the SHAR arrow (S). It is imperative that the the of over the tail in the race, and it must never be placed ly proper huttle be 5 the shuttle is in position re When n. positio FORCED into by slipping the fork at left side cover race shuttle place push right side back over latch (G) under pin (H) and to its holding position. back snap will which

Nine

Regulating the Tensions Upper: When the presser foot lifter lever (Fig 3) tension on the upper thread is automatically released raised Ther fore, the presser foot must always be lowered When adju The tension tension. regulator upper the ing lever j located 5 tenaj on the face of machine (Fig. 3). To increc 0 Push lever dow,ward. To decrease tension push lever U)iard The most satisfactory tension for ordinary sewing is Objfled with pointer on this lever set between figures 2 and 3 011 the numbered gauge.

Lower: The small screw in center of the bobbin case (Fig. 6) regulates the tension on the lower thread. To increase .

11 t to decrease screw; the tension, loosen it. sion tighten either event only turn this screw a little bit kt a time.

Tension should be in balance to get best results neat, exible, accurate stitching. Experiment until your is balanced as follows: If the upper thread is too tight, the upper thread will drawn straight on the top of the material, thus:

To Regulate Stitch Length (Forward and Backward With Stops)

lever (Fig. 5, page 6) controls t1 t1 regu1at0 for both forward and reverse. iength tit,h positb0m of the stop screw (Fig. 5, page 6) regt 5 he length of the stitch, forward and reverse, by lirnii iates themovement up and down of the stitch regulator leve: the

phe

To Set the Stitch Length:

regulator lever until the desired numbe Move the stitch window then turn the StOP screw to the righ

—

If the lower thread is too tight, the lower thread will b. drawn straight on the bottom of the material, thus:

When tensions are properly adjusted the stitching o

materials will look the same on both sides, thus: -

Teii

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5 p pears in the to rest. comes until itlong 85 the stop screw is not turned the length o As the same. titch will remain 5 in reverse, move the lever down until it stops.

To sew forward, move the lever up again until it stops.

To sew stop have been set for a short stitci and lever If the 2, and the operator wishes to use a longe: ngth such as No.stop screw and set the stitch regulator tc the titch, loosen 5 longer stitch as shown in the window in the platE the desired the stop screw as before until it comes to rest then tightenlonger stitch will now result both forward an ame The 5 that number 4 is the longest reverse stitch reverse, except ‘ength.

To Remove the Work Fig. 3) must be at its HIGHEST POINT (5, take-Up The remove the work. Failure to do this will to t 8 temptiflg before the thread and unthreading the needle. breaking in result Turn the hand wheel until the take-up (5, Fig. 3) is at the presser foot with presser foot lever its highest point, raise FABRIC BACK about three inches in a and DRAW THE both threads over the thread cutter on the straight line, pass presser bar. After the material has been removed and the threads cut, do not run the machine accidentally or other wise without material under the presser foot. (See following paragraph.)

IMPORTANT the machine is threaded, do not operate it without having material under the presser foot.

Failure to observe this instruction will cause thread to lodge in the shuttle mechanism and prevent machine from Eleven

mer The Narrow Hem out bobbin Case and running properly. To correct, take tion, turning wheel by the machine in the wrong direc better still remove s huttlehand and it will cut thread out; orpins anc . ng drivi and clean the race To Avoid Breaking Needles

I •

Never pull the work, causing needle to strike the needle en by sewing heavy seams plate. A needle may also be brok cient pressure Ofl the presser or very thick goods without suffi ase this pressure, the foot for such heavy work. To incre er bar. thumb screw on top of the press

To Set the Needle be raised to its highest Point.

The needle bar should the needle clamp and Press it to of screw u thuiu the en Loos the shank of the needle to up the left. This will permitthe needle bar as far as it pass will go and p clam the een betw . the to right Then n k shan faste the with the flat side of the rely.

Use a screw driver. needle clamp screw secir ld pass in ng shou the The needle when descendi front to rear, but center from to of the needle plate hole. If it does not the needle isclose either right side of needle hole bent or improperly set.

Proper Needles and Thread ct needles that are not bent It is important to use perfe ring needles for this machine men nor blunted. When ordethe head number. For ordinary fam tion the name and givesize No. 1. This will carry thread No. le need use ily sewing, 90.

60 to No.

Needle and Thread Sizes

Other Threads Mercerized Nylon A Silk A erized Merc 80 to 60 1 Mercerized 60 to 40 2 Heavy Duty Mercerized Heavy Duty Mercerized 30 to 40 3 and mercerized thread. le need 0 No. use , film ic plast For

Needle Sizes 0

Cotton Thread 80 to 100

Twelve

Figure 5

that it j equaled the dainty finishingmer. nothing has ever the Narrow Hem of use the by sible to obtain 05 Sewing Machine in plac nt is put on the to turn and stitch a nar ned This attachme desig is and ser foot of the p.res . ation oper one row• hem in over % mci material in Hemmer creaseinser t edge ii inches, Before inserting 2 t abou of nce dista for a l, folded edge on tor scrol the of its edge nd arou it Hemmer guiding until edge is under needle; lower presse hing appear too far fror draw fabric back to stitch. Should stitc bar and beginof hem, push Hemmer slightly toward the right turned edgehing appear too close to edge, or not catching a the left. should stitc mer slightly toward all, move Hem too much feeds into th er neith that so Guide material and uneven hems; neither too little, nc wide scroll, causinga second turning, thus leaving a raw edge. Tb allowing for kept just full. scroll should be

TMrteen

Hemmer Seam with Foot A Felled

Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One 0 Operatj With the Foot Hemmer

Figure 11

F. 10

The Narrow Hemmer is designed with a slot at the right into which the edge of lace, rick-rack braid or any finished edge can be inserted and stitched to garment while it is being hemmed.

Proceed to make a hem in the same manner described on previous page. Insert edge of lace or trimming right side down in slot at right of hemmer and see that the needje pierces it close to the edge just above turned edge of hem.

Commence to stitch guiding the lace edge into the slot of hemmer with the right hand while guiding material to be hemmed into the scroll of Hemmer with the left hand.

Applying lace in what is termed the French manner also requires the use of the Narrow Hemmer. Enter the fabric to be hemmed as for plain hemming, enter laces from the left, right side down, on top of the fabric; allow edge of lace to enter hemmer and meet material just as it is being turned, thus the hem will enclose lace edge in one stitching. Press hem back on wrong side of fabric and no visible stitching will mar this dainty finish.

Fourteen

double strength is generally used where seam felled A a nice fiat finish. desired with is c foot hemmer for felling the labor When using the in half. togetli pieces of material to be seamed place the two to extend about section one allow facing, with right sides other. Place goods under the Foot Henur the beyond inch keeping narrow it were the presser foot, just as though of Foot Hemmer edge ost; stitch, using the is completed op of seam upperm g stitchin After seams edge. side of ma right a guide for with under foot hemmer half of sei seams and place widest the and e machin bed of 1 down fiat on This widest portion of seams edge is tl na toward the right. and if seam of hemmer (See Fig. 11) entered in scroll half of seam v widest or inch 34 the d been evenlY stitche inch edge in a neat felled seam. enclose and cover the Fifteex

Cutting Gauge is used as gauge The cuttingcutting bias bands when a guide binding; or narrow for use as straight or bias to bands eitherfacings, pipings, as be used or narrow ruffling.

Wide Hemmers

4 Figure

H

The inch and fractions thereof, d ignated on the cutting gauge, enab p one to cut material of any texture binder. the with use for fectly %-inch of +4-inch is correct for firn woven materials.

1-inch to 1-inch is correct for yr terialS that stretch more readily. T gauge slide is adjustable and can moved to the left or right.

Figuze 12

An assortment of wide hemmers is furnished with Y1r Sewing Machine.

Attach the desired size of Hemmer to machine in place of the presser foot; crease over Y inch of material to be hemmed for about two inches before inserting edge of goods Enter material and guide it around scroll of hemmer using both hands to draw it back and forth a few times, while gradually feeding the cloth into the hemmer so as tO fill the

scroll completely. Draw material back so that creased edge fits around edge of scroll in hemmer and selvedge edges meet.

Hold both under and upper threads and proceed to stitch.

Should the stitching appear too far from turned edge of hem loosen thumb screw and move hemmer toward the right.

If it appears dangerously close to turned edge of hem move hemmer toward the left.

As material is stitched through the large hemrners the turn at edge of hem is visible. Allow the hem to ride freely through the hemmer, never drawing on the edge being turned, but gently retarding the material under the hemmer, using the left hand.

Sixteen

FrUre 15

gauge to Attach cutting scissors, move of point lower width of band gauge slide to the material Insert desired. the blades to be cut between with the gauge cutting of the against the material of edge moving the slide, then cut in short forward scissors clips. even that bind It is important with the used be to ings on a true bias binder be cut perfect work. produce to will stretch bias true a Only evenly.

Seventeen

I •1

The Multiple Slot Binder The popularity for bindings that do double diminishes. Bindings are frequently used to finishduty never of fabric as well as furnishing a garment’ 8 only the edges trimming.

The Multiple Slot binder is de signed to Cover every need whether it be the binding making of dainty garmeactual that call for narrow bindings construction of so manyor in the house. hold utilities.

The Multiple Slot Binder l.a made with & different lot each designed to carry sized binding o their width. Size 1-2-34 5 Commercial single fold binding must be used and fed into the slots of same size as illustrated The familiar % inch or inch bias cut binding which +jevery woman has always used is entered through the open mouth of the scro The Binder is adjustable aide. wise to bring the stitching prop.. erly close to the edge of binding.

Exclusive Bindings with the Multiple Slot Binder Remove the presser foot, attach Binder in its place.

As shown in Fig. 18 the Multiple Slot Binder can be used for attractive combination trimmings so much in vogue on jabots and frilled accessories.

Our illustration shows a tricolored trim using com mercial single fold bindings sizes 1—3 and 5. Sizes 5 and 8 act as two tone pipings while size 1 binds the edge enclosing the fabric in the double piping all in one single stitching.

This trimming is just as effective on the reverse side of fabric making It a desirable accomplishment for any dainty cascade.

Eighteen

Figure 18

decided point and enter each width Clip bid1! to a it beyond the needle with the helping its respective slot and starting with the narrow pin or needle of a large is inserted in the center of bound be to width. The edge scroll and held in as far as possil the between attaChmt without crowding.

Many lovely double binding combinations are possible and 3; 2 and 4; or 3 and 5. several different sizes: 1 Binding with Bias Cut Binding Binding that has been cut and prepared for Bind should be cut to a long point, inserr.ed into the scrolls Binder and helped forward beyond the needle by the aid of large pin. Lower presser bar and stitch to ascertain whe stitching line appears on binding.

Nineteen

Quilting

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•,_

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Ylgur. 1

The Binder is adjustable and can be moved to left o right, until line of stitching appears safely close to edge of binding.

In binding scallops it is necessary to hold the edge to be bound well into the fold between scroll of Binder as fabric nears the needle, at this point only is binding being stitched and if care is exercised no stretch will appear on this curved edge. Illustration of bound scallops (Fig. 19) clearly show3 this operation.

Additional rows of binding can be applied as a trimming by placing garment to be trimmed under the Binder and guid ing the spaces between rows by the edge of Binder Frame.

Twenty

Figure 20

s upon the accuracy in stitching espe So much depend are used for trimming. The quiltei rows sive succes when guide for any stitching that is si te accura an act as the presser foot allows. wider apart than quilting over wadding the Quilter C e genuin For Quilter Foot has no equal. Place as z used with the waddin g over the wrong side of quilt f: of thicknesses of cheese cloth over the who piece a place as desired, le on comfortables or q desirab so pucker even insure the screw at back of presser cutter thread the Free wire to fit into the screw sufficientlY to allow quilter the distance from needle desired Guide r Quilte Adjust bed of machine so that material can high enough from tighten screw. then under it freely, fairly long and keep the w Set the machine stitch ost. upperm side of quilt g release the pressure ox For extremely thick paddin r Bar Cap. (Fig. 3).

Presse the turning Quilter Foot by

Twenty-one

I

wide range of effects. be formed in a pleating canset for deep or shallow pleats, spaced c be Ruffler can far apart. together or

Ruffler A. Slots to space fullness at number of stitches.

B. Slide lever to regulate depth of pleat.

Six-Stitch Pleating set pin in

nt “A” At poi for pleat 6 opening At

No. h stitch. every sixt loosen screw, “B” nt en poi down to deepby slide lever ts plea ce pleat. Spa h on sewing ‘ength of stitc ine. mach

placing Attach Ruflier by chm ent the foot “C” on atta holder and the fork arm clamp astride the needle screw. n See that needle goes dowin n center of needle hole Ruffier.

Twelve-Stitch Pleating set pin in At point “A” ing for pleat open 12 No. stitch. At every twelfth en screw, loos “B” point n to deepen dow lever slide ce pleats by pleat. Spa h on sewing stitc of length machine.

Ruffling

ruffled Enter material to beEdge of es. blad blue between of one into ed guid is l materia le stab adju or s slot several different guides provided forwan ce or allo m sea widths of these in wn sho as headings, pictures.

No. At point “A”, set pinat inevery 1 opening for gather loosen stitch. At point “B” dept h of screw and set lever forthe finest gather. No. 1 makes h on sew gather. Length of stitc unt of in machine varies amo fullness.

Group Pleating stitch pleating, for six-stitch or tweoflvets. Stop sewi Set Ruifler to plea up gro t firs make above, proceed pin in At point “A” set marked ing open neutral hout pleat star. Stitch witwhe re next nt poi to ing begin. ts plea of group “A” to Reset pin at pointposition. pleating previous

Twenty-two

Twenty-three

Edgestitching to Ruffle Piping and material to Shirring Plate. Enter

Shirring The Shirring Plate is used to ings make wide ruffles, deep head rows on ruffles, and for continuous of shirring.

with ’cvan Use Ruff1 blades from right Guide into seam-allo openir red een squa betw gh throu g pipin d ffle Place 5hirflng Plate.

Guide folded ed t of 50 edge of base fabric. r unde Fold adjust the guic To es. blad e left. abov on piping and e abov nd needle ho behi edge, loosen screw into slot sews on very le need So and slide

To Use Shirring Plate: r. Put Shirring Plate on machine 1. Remove handhole cove of needle plate. Point with point “YY” in screwinghole of needle plate, and is held “XX” goes in squared open ced at this point. in place with handhole cover, repla guide by loosening ing and head 2. Remove lower blade side and Slipping for ler, Ruff of right on screw small . scrgw l smal ten Tigh . ward before.

3. Put Ruffler on machine as 4. Set attachment for ruffling. For several rows of shirring, it helps to use the Quilt ing Guide for spacing.

Twenty-four

Twenty-five

Combination Edge-Stitcher, Tucking Guide and Top-Braider The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the machine in the same manner as the Presser-Foot. There are five different slots, which are shown j the illustration, serving as guides for sewing together laces, insertions, em. broideries, sewing in position folded or hemmed edges, bias-folded material or piping, etc.

How to Adjust the Edge-Stitcher or left until the To adjust, move the lug “A” to then right ng two pieces of sewi Whe . ined obta is nt stme adju ed desir that the attachment is lace together, it is very necessary , so that the edges wili edge the on tly exac h stitc to sted adju d. dere laun when over not fold it is better When sewing laces or soft materials together, This will prevent the to hold the edges, slightly overlapped. lace from feeding away from the guide. sted, the most in.

When the attachment is properly adju lace or material of s yard sew may ator oper experienced together with no difficulty.

Tucking on the back edge The numbers 2 to 6 inclusive stamped width of tuck in eighth of the sliding guide represent the rial for the first tuck put of an inch. After folding the mate nearest the needle. the folded edge into the guide slot which gis “H” coincides with When the left edge of the friction sprin the number 2 on the scale a Y” tuck results In like manner, set the guide at 3 for a %“ tuck.

In like manner, set the guide at 4 for a %“ tuck. tuck.

In like manner, set the guide at 5 for a % 84n tuck.

In like manner, set the guide at 6 for a 1%” move the guide “G” as far For tucks narrower than as desired to the left.

Twent,.ejz

Braiding the right until the braiding gt to “G” e guid Move the the needle hole of the atts with line in tly exac hole “K” is design to be braided should be plainly marked ment. The the top or right side of the fabric. Start gmped on stitch along design, be into hole “K” and soutache braidsout feeding freely into hole 4 is braid ache the sure thattwis a corner, stop the machine ting. To without braid in the exact corner of the gh throu n just enough to permit the tt the need’e dow r er-ba press design, raise the ed direction, lower the pres desir the fabric in ing bf theproc re. befo eed as bar and

Twentlf-SCVCfl

per tion Adjustable Zip The Combina and Cording Foot ttadhing

The Slurring Foot

igned S This attachment is des hing ei stitc can be adjusted for g in a s din cor of side left or right ht or left rig g hin stitc for or e fastener. when attaching a slid mb screw thu ing sen loo by t jus ition on pos ired des sliding foot to Inserting Cording

Figure 26

and well liked Sewing Machine One of the very newest g smocking obtained when usin the trimmings is the dainty Shirring Foot. ring held firmly by a row of Fig. 26 shows rows of shir needle hole of Shirring Foot the ugh DMC Floss entered thro is le it being gathered. These con and stitched to garment whi broken by a diagonal shirring are tinuous rows of shirring d ct. active puffing for a smocke effe which produces a very attr k wor this for t -foo sser pre the s The Shirring Foot replace governed by the is ble aina obt s nes full and the amount of and tension. For fine shirring sot setting of machine stitch h greater fullness lengthen the stitc ain obt the stitch short; to ion. and tighten the upper tens as it is being gathered so that ric fab de gui lly Carefu singly. dle nee material feeds to the

Twenty-eight

FIgure 27

t and attach the Ad regular presserin foo U its place. Loosen therig Remove the t men ach Att ation the foot to the ve mo and able Combin ent attachm dle. See tha screw on theis to be to the left of the nee e before tig the cordinsg down in center of the needle hol needle goe screw. d, right side out, ing the thumb of bias over the cor Fold a strip attachment. Stitch along close to the us the ble Attachment beinghin place undersho ws the Adjusta ede in one stitc g ric Fig. 27 fab a to it and ioin ly bu ky, loosen the Pr cover cordthe fabric is extreme to al ow the fabricto When htly slig ew Cap Scr Combination Attach ble usta Bar Adjusting Adj er the more freely und Twent

I

Cabinet Sewing Machine Head on To Install

Attaching a Slide Fastener

-c

-r-

•

__

4

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-—-“ :.

FIrure 2S

Remove the regular presser foot and attach the Com the thumb screw bination Attachment in its place. Loosen the right or left as on the attachment and move the foot to in center of the desired. See that the needle goes down needle hole before tightening the thumb screw.

The needle holes on either side are cut deep enough to slide fastener allow sufficient space between the metal of the catch in the not will fabric the so g stitchin and the line of slide pull as it is being opened and closed.

Fig. 28 shows a slide fastener being stitched in a gar ing and ment with the Combination Adjustable Zipper Attach . needle the of right the to ned Cording Foot positio

Thirty

on Place the head cabinet rige 2) n ks two binges of d to backcab in top of back head inet. TIP head and tightenscrews singe set lY. (Fig. 2) secUre U on g bushin pull as near cord motor as pos to the motOr slip motor sible and slot at edge cord into plate and bed of g back rush bushin bed plate in hole Into 9). Un cabinet, plug into an (see Fig. extefls lOfl cord inside ethe the wind the machin is ready for operation. and outlet, base plug place leather bel is treadle operated, merely If machinewheel pulley as of course there is no moto drive around hand connections. or electrical Motor Lubrication provid at either end of the motor shaft) (one cups fill with petro Two and caps the w Unscre tion. ma for motor lubrica nallY, depending upon the use of the leuni jelly occasio s. month six every chine, approximately

Speed Control and Current

g th sewing speed is obtained by pressin The desired re from the knee lever auto pressu ing Remov knee lever. machine. The motor can be used on eithe maticallY stops the volts up to 75 cycles.

115 or 110 AC or DC, Motor Pulley pulley (Fig. 9) is adjusted so ii motor the Be sure of the machine. wheel disc centers on the Thirty-one

4,

SIMPLE CORRECTIONS FOR MINOR DIFFICULTIES d and tested This sewing machine was carefully adjuste care and attention before being delivered, and with proper should give you no according to the directions in this book s for it, such trouble. To be sure of getting the proper supplie you buy them as needles, oil and bobbins we recommend that e from us, always giving the name of your machin and its serial number. ment parts If your machine should actually need replace in touch with us. get you that t sugges we service repair or to tamper with Do not permit just anybody who comes along agents and un.. led Unskil e. machin your fix to t attemp or than harm good in more far do often men repair trained attempting to adjust a sewing machine. be reme For the most part sewing machine troubles. can to perform Should Your died by minor adjustments easy over the following list of machine start misbehaving, check minor difficulties and simple corrections for them, before calling for help.

If it Skips Stitches

The trouble may be caused by— 1. Crooked Needle: skipping.

May be hardly perceptible yet sufficient to cause turn machine Unthread the needle, remove presser foot, nt position in by hand. Needle should maintain a consta passes down relation to the needLe hole as the needle through the needle plate hole. is not Replace with a new needle and make certain this the cause of trouble.

2. Incorrect Needle—or too fine a needle: It is very important that you have the correct needle. Be certain to follow the table in this instruction book in selecting the proper size needle for size of thread and material being used.

3. Needle incorrectly set: The needle must be pushed up as far as it will go into the needle clamp with the flat side of the shank to the right and fastened securely with thumb screw.

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rubs Presser Foot: 4. Needle foot holder on the presser bar so th Adjust presser to, but ,iot rubbing, the right side of t closer is needle To make this adjustment, loosen the snut presser foot.fastens preSser foot holder to presser ha that screw the proper position and firmly tghtc to foot the Adjust should be a trifle closer to the rig) screw. The needle foot. the side of

Thread if it Breaks i.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

be caused by— The trouble may used: being Wrong Needle before trying anything else to put in it is important , proper kind and size. new straight needle fine: too Needle needle and thread according to th Select the proper this instruction book. in ere elsewh table Plate Choked with Stray Threads: Hole in the Needle the underside of needle plate witi Pull threads from needle, or better remove plate anc screw driver or long clean. ed: Machine Improperly Thread the instructions on threading thE Check over carefullye especia lly the threading of the machine and observ plate. check spring on top of the face Top Tension too Tight: Refer to instructions elsewhere in this hook On the proper adjustment—both upper and lower tensions.

Needle too Close to Presser Foot: Adjust foot as described “Needle Rubs on Presser Foot” under “Skips Stitches”.

Examine needle hole in needle plate. If it has become rough or burred from needle striking it, needle plate should be replaced with a new one.

if It Breaks Needles

The trouble may be caused by— sewing will break needles.

1. Pulling of the material when Guide the material only—do not pull.

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2. Wrong Needle being used: Be sure you are using the correct needle for this machine 3. Needle incorrectly set—too low: See instructions elsewhere in this book on how to P1o erly set needle and follow instructions carefully.

4. Needle Rubs on Presser Foot: Adjust foot as described “Needle rubs on Presser Foot” under “Skips Stitches”.

6. Needle not firmly set: After being certain needle is properly set be sure it is held tight by needle clamp screw—use a screw driver.

-

If Puckers On Ordinary Material The trouble may be caused by— 1. Tensions NOT in balance: Reduce the tension on upper thread by moving indicator towards No. 1. Do some testing. If this fails, examine lower tension on bobbin case for proper adjustment and proceed to balance the tensions. See instructions else where in this book on tension adjustment.

2. Blunt Needle—Replace with a new straight needle-_..ex. amine needle point.

If Puckers On Fine Material The trouble may be caused by— 1. Both tensions may be too tight: Adjust upper and lower tensions—must be in balance For chiffon and other very light materials, best results and the lower are obtained with upper tension set at tension in balance with that. However, sufficient tension must be maintained to raise the small auxiliary spring (No. 4 in Fig. 3) when machine is in operation.

2. Presser foot loose in holder: Tighten knurled thumb screw.

3. Blunt Needle: Replace with new straight needle—examine needle point.

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Plate 4. Needle slightly bent down. N this plate might be from in pars needle striking it be rough might hole plate new needle plate is required. a case either

Loose itcbing

be caused by— The trouble may r top, bottom or both: loose—eithe too 1. Tension elsewhere on tension adjustment See instructions balance. fails to Operate Satisfactorily: 2. Upper Tension lodged between tension plate Nc threads stray or Lint lifter (see illustration). Set Raise the presser atfoot figure No. 1, next cut a piece of 1 tension regulator cloth to a point and di this strip of cloth thro and under tension p1 No. 1 and close to sci No. 3 on the side from as shown in illustratj This cloth should be dra down through tension p1 No. I and washer No. 2 4 shown in illustration), t can be accomplished holding tension plate (I’

1) and washer (No.

apart with a small sen driver. Be careful to dri the cloth between plc No. 1 and washer No. When you have this do in place, drop the press bar lifter, move the te

sion regulator toward N 8 and pull the cloth up az down a few times which will remove any bits of thread lint from between tension plate No. 1 and washer No.

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