White 150 fl x

Page 1

INTRODUCTIJN CONTENTS

NAME OF EACH PART

SPECIAL FEATURES

TO SET THE NEEDLE

TO WIND THE BOBBIN

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBB IN CASE TO CLEAN SNAPOpEN RACE TO THREAD THE MACHINE & NEED LE TO PREPARE FOR SEWING • TO COMMENCE SEWING TO REMOVE THE WORK TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION • TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESS ER FOOT TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL BUILT IN LICYT TO OH. SE*ING MACHINE —

NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES

lilt FlUuLIIt —



MAIN

PLANT


INTRODUCTION us booklet is your guide to sewing pleasure with your new machine. contains the names of the major parts and identifies them for ready reference. e special features of this machine are explained ccessful operation are set forth.

and detailed

instructions

for its

The booklet also lists the various items of maintenance

cessary to avoid wear or damage and explains how to diagnose or discover errors nd possible trouble. ur new machine is a smart, well-built machine with two tone color made by a reliable -m with over seventy years of experience.

It was designed to be attractive, accurate

id easily regulated. is machine is the first non-commercial machine to incorporate an automatic lubricating vice as a convenience to the user. is a precise and highly efficient machine capable of producing the desired stitches ther backward or forward, regardless of material weight, with a minimum of effort by e operator.

Prior to leaving the factory this machine was subjected to a rigid test

a special sound-levelling apparatus which reduces noise and vibration to a minimum. u may well take chine.

pride in your selection of this attractive, precise

and efficient

Its quiet operation, unique features and reasonable price will provide you

more satisfying sewing hours per dollar than any other selections you might have de.

INTRO El U CT[) N


CONTENTS INTRODUCTION NAME OF EACH PART SPECIAL FEATURES I. TO SET THE NEEDLE 2•

TO WIND THE BOBBIN

3. TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE 4. TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE

5. TO CLEAN SNAP-OPEN RACE 6. TO THREAD THE MACHINE & NEEDLE 7. TO PREPARE FOR SEWING 8. TO COMMENCE SEWING 9. TO REMOVE THE WORK 10, TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION 11. TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH

12. TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT

...

13. TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL 14. BUILT-IN LIGHT 15. TO OIL SEWING MACHINE 16. SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS 17. CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES

NEEDLE & THREAD SIZES

:


NAME OF EACH PART

1. Built-in darner (Regulating plate) 2. Built-in darner (Release lever) 3. Thread take-up lever 4. Arm thread guide 5. Bobbin winder thread guide 6, 6’. Spool pin 7. Bobbin winder spindle 8. Bobbin winder stop latch 0

10. 11. 12. 13.

..L,,I

Graduation plate Feed regulating lever stop screw Feed regulating lever Light switch

ffl MTFMT

14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23 24. 25. 26. 27.

Thread guide Drop feed indicator Drop feed dial Calibrated upper thread tension regulat Thread take-up spring Needle bar Needle Presser foot Shuttle race Slide plate Presser bar Presser foot lifter Oiling button Plastic viewer

hiRL1 flr APU DADY


SPECIAL FEATURES is the first of, its kind. It enables you to dial the exact UlLT-IN DARNER The ssure you desire according to the kind of material you are sewing. oers on the graduator tell you how much pressure you have. -

not only regulates your stitch length, but also controls TITCH REGULATOR Nard and backward sewing. It helps you to select your stitch size with ease I accuracy. -

winds your bobbin and stops auto tUILT-IN AUTOMATIC BOBBIN WINDER ically when your bobbin is filled, Its mechanism is built inside the arm to form with the manufacturer’s wish to present you with a machine of the -

rest design. allows the tension of :ALIBRATED UPPER THREAD TENSION REGULATOR upper thread to ie easily and accurately adjusted according to thread and erial weight differences. -

regulates the position of your feed dog for embroidering )ROP FEED DIAL Jarning and for different weights of fabrics. -

illuminates your work for better and efficient sewing with UILT-IN LIGHT lare. light bulb is easily changed. 9 -

is so constructed that cleaning it or NAP-OUT RACE zlcations arising within it is made very simple and quick. -

eliminating

any

glides over pins and bastings or any other r OATING PRESSER FOOT Jarity in your work, so you will be able to sew over these as smoothly they were not there. -

UTOMATlC LUBRICATING DEVICE cally. .

.

-

applies the oil to the vital parts auto .


1. TO SET THE NEEDLE NEEDLE 8AP TWPEAD GUIDE

\ \\

4.-

BR CLAMP SCEEW

-,

NEEDLE PLAT SUPPACE

(1) Turn the Balance wheel toward you. raising needle bar to its highest point, and loosen the needle clamp screw. (2) Hold the needle in the left hand with

NEEDLE CLAMP

the point down, and insert the needle clamp as far as it will go, with its fiat

NEEDLE

NEEDLE -.

surface to the right; then retighten the clomp screw (Fig I

THPE4D

Fig. 1

2. TO WIND THE BOBBIN (1) Disconnect the balance wheel from the stitching mechanism by holding the balance

wheel with your left hand. and turning the stopmotion knob COUNTERC LOCKWISE with your right hand. (Fig. 2’ (2 Raise the folded spool pin (6) and place a spooi of thread on it. (Fig. 3)

Fig

2

Fig. 3

SPECIAL FEATURES

TO SET THE NEEDLE

TO WIND THE BOBBIN

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE TO CLEAN SNAP-OPEN RACE TO THREAD THE MACHINE & NEEDLE PREPARE TO FOR SEWING • TO COMMENCE SEWING

TO REMOVE THE WORK

TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION

TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT BUILT-IN LIGHT

ro

TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH USE THE DROP FEED DIAL

TO OIL SEWING MACHINE

SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS NEEDLEANOTHREADSIZES

CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES .


(3) Pcs the thread through the bobbin winder thread guide (5) as illustrated, wind the end of the thread on the bobbin 7 or 8 times, then place it Thread guide (5)

on the bobbin winder spindle (7).

When piacing the bobbin on

the bobbin winder spindle, keep in mind that the BOBBIN Will SPIN ClOCKWISE.

With your

right forefinger

push the

le’ier

(Marked PUSH), and the spindle will go toward the rioht auto matically by the action of sprina. (Fig. 4) (4) While slowly turning the balance wheel toward you with your right hand, operate the rheostat control as you would in actual sewing.

-

(5) When enough thread is wound on the bobbin the lever will be rleased auto maticolly and will cause the spindle to stop winding and remove toward the left. Then you may take off the bobbin.

.

-.


3. TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE Before threading the bobbin case, study Fig. 5, 6. 7, to get a generol idea as to how it is done. l Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right, leaving about two inches of the thread end unwound (Fig. 5).

As the bobbin is being

inserted in the bobbin case, the THREAD FLOW, you will note, is CLOCKWISE (Fig. 5’).

(2) While holding the bobbin case as before, grasp the thread end with your right hand, guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 6).

. 6 9 F

(3) Then pull it thrcuch under the tension spring of the bobbin case (Fig. 6’ until it enters the de livery eye (Fig. 7’).

Fig. 7

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE TO CLEAN SNAP-OPEN RACE TO THREAD THE MACHINE NEEDLE TO PREPARE FOR SEWING • TO COMMENCE SEWING TO REMOVE THE WORK

.

TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION

TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT BUILT-IN LIGHT

TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH

ro

USE THE DROP FEED DIAL

TO OIL SEWING MACHINE

SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES

CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES ‘


I 4. TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE (1) Raise the presser bar (24) by lifting the presser bar lifter (25) (2) Raise the needle bar (19) to its highest point, by turning the Balance Wheel toward you. (3) Open the hinged plate (23) (Fig, 8). (4) After threading the bobbin case, hold its latch between the thumb and torefinger of left hand,

with

its

position

finger opposite the notch at the top of tne shuttle race, replace it

on

the

center

stud

of

the

shuttle (Fig. 9)

(5) Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove

near

the end of the stud. (6) Allow the erd of re thread to hang free. Fig. B (7) Close the plate. To remove (Fig. 8, 9) Do (1)

(2) (3) as above.

(4) Hold the bobbin case latch between the thumb and forefinger of

en hand

and take out the bobbin case from the machine.

‘


5. TO CLEAN SNAP

OPEN RACE

-

When the thread is tonaled in the race or dust es

ntO

the space oetween

the shuttie and shuttle-race, tHs will cause abrupt heavy runnina or complete stappqge of the

machine.

When his occurs (1) Rode tre needle bor to ifs hmnest coirrt and ate cu

th

bobbn co:n

(Fig. 10) (2) Release both

th

sides

KNOES of

by snapping inside,

out.rnd

tren

shuttle-race

off from take

and

cn

tre

au

the the

cruttie

bocy with your fors.

3

,-irer snutle-race and bob core rove been c:eaneO cut

all

of

them

back

TO REPLACE AND REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE TO CLEAN SNAP-OPEN RACE TO THREAD THE MACHINE & NEEDLE TO PREPARE FOR SEWING • TO COMMENCE SEWING TO REMOVE THE WORK TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION • TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENG TH TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE CF THE PRESSER FOOT BUILT-IN LIGHT SOME USEFbL SEWiNG HINtS

TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL

TO OIL SEWING MACHINE CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES

NEEDLE ANDTHREADS[ZES —---

—-—.— —


6. TO THREAD THE MACHINE & NEEDLE

First, by pulling up the spool pin spool pin

bring the

to sewing pcsit’on and turn

the

pulley toward you to raise the needle bar to

(1

its highest point.

)

Place a spool of thread on spool pin. (6’)

(2) Lead the thread throuah the arm threadguide and down 4) (Fig. 11) (3) Run the

thread

along to

the

tension

discs from right to left and up. Then

hang

the

thread

thread take-up spring

down

to

the

( 8)

ii

(4) Take the thread up through the thread-guide and run th end through the eye of the thread fake-up lever (3) from right to. left. (5) Now run the thread down through the

threadguide

again

and

through the

vertical slot and thread-guide at the lower part of the slot in the face plate and then through the loop of the needle bar from the back. (6) Finally, run the end of the thread through the eye of the needle (20) FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. drawing it through. about 3 or 4 inches. to sew.

You are now ready


7. TO PREPARE FOR SEWING (1) Hold the end of the upper-thread with the left hand, leaving it slack from the hond to the needle. (2) Turn the Balance wheel over toward you for the needle tC move down and up again to its highest. (3) Pull the thread you ore holding, as the lower-thread will be brought up with it [nrough the hole in tne needle-plate. as shown (Fig. l2. 4) Place both ends of the upper and lower lhread to the back of the presser foot. (Fig. 33). Fig. 12

8. TO COMMENCE SEWING Cl) Ptoce the fabric to be sewn beneath the prese

loot.

Lower the prerser foot, by lowering the

(2

rresser bar life.

3) Commence sewing slowly by turning the balance wheel in direction toward you whiie gradually worng the rheostat con-

Always turn balance wheel toward you and not away from you.

Fig. 13

TO PREPARE FOR SEWING

TO THREAD THE MACHiNE & NEEDLE TO REMOVE THE WORK

.

TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION

-

TO COMMENCE SEWING

TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH

TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL

TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT BUILT-IN LIGHT

TO OIL. SEWING MACHINE

-

CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES

SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS

-

-

-

____t______

__L_

.4.._

—._—

—--

-r__

——

—--

-


9. TO REMOVE THE WORK (1) Raise the needle bar to its hiahest position, by turning the Balance Wheel over toward you. (2) Lit the presser foci by lilting the presser bar lifter. 3

LJove the Icbdc back to the left and cut off the thread by passing it over the thread-cutter

above the presser foot. (4) Leave both ends of the thread a few inches !onq, under cnd tc the back c the presser root.

Fig. 14 77t

Correct Stitch //‘2.’7r

Needie Thread Te’rsiorr too strong

Needle Ihread Tension too weak

10. TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION For ordinary stitching, the tension of the upper and needle threads should be equal so as to lock both threads in the center of the material c.g 14). If one tension is stronger thcn the ctter, im perfect stitching will result. Fine motericis require a light enson, while Heavy materials require more tension to cztoin a perect stitch. TQ INCREASE the tension, turn the Thumb-Nut (Fig. 1 5) CLOCK

WISE. TO LESSEN the tension, turn the nut in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION. (when regulating cwcys have the presser down) As all machines ore correctly adusted be usted 1 fore leaving the factory and reod before the dealer deiivers them to you, the lower tension seldom recuires to be

00 t

this becomes necessary, TIGHTEN the screw in the tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case for altered,

but,

if

MORE TENSION, or LOOSEN the screw slightly for LESSER TENSION (Fig. 1 6. Fig. 15


GTH 11. TO REGULATE THE STITCH LEN LEVER up or down sewing could be done By regulatina the FEED REGULATING length of the stitch. backward end forward with the some h (1) The graduator indicates Stitch leng

figures from 0 to 5;

R by turning to (2) Loosen STOP SCREW (11) of LEVE

he COUNTERCLOCK

by desired length of the stitch and secure WISE and set the LEVER at the ng; tightening the SCREW and commence sewi length of ng con be made with the some (3) The backward (reverse) sewi ed R as far as It goes for R, mark forward stitch by pushing up the LEVE direction. (Fig. 17).

Fig. 17

Ta REMOVE THE WORK

.

TO REGULATE THE THREAD TENSION

TO REGULATE THE STITCH LENGTH

TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL ER FOOT TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESS JO OIL SEWING MACHINE BUILT•IN LIGHT --

ZJNEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES —

-

--..


12. TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT

Light material will

not

sew

too much

well with

pressuse. nor will heavy fabrics, under too little. To adjust

for

correct

use

built-in

the

in

When used nght

darner. (Fig. 18, 19) Fig 18

pressure

ordination with the upper thread

tenson

co

reculator

and the drop feed dial, this darner becomes on erfective tool for obtoininc good sewing results. Open the FACE

PLATE and

recuiahng picte (1

by ushng the dial

of the darner )C,’vNWARD

the pressure of the foot can be increased. The graduator is numbered 1

to 4. (Pg. 19

You will know precisely how much pressure there is on the foot.

The bigger e number the higher

the pressure. To lower the pressure below what is presently used, push release lever (2) to arrow direction and return pressure to show ‘l’ on the dial. Fig. Then redial for lower

pi

essure sought.

9


13. TO USE THE DROP FEED DIAL By using the drop feed dial (15) you may

the

adust

feed dog

for sewing

different types of maericls and for em broidering or darning. For sewing very light fabrics, move indicator to

for heavy

LO’; and

materials, ‘Hf. the

2 When h DO

indicator

position,

is

at

the

dog will

the feed

Fg. 20

be lowered below the surface of the Needle plate.

This is for dcrning, fcr you will be able to move your work freely about in any direction you choose. 3) For embrocierinc end do rnin fir:

remove

eesssr fcor

bar (24)

and lower presser

(21

Fig. 20)

A better finish will be obtained art

kind

thicker fabrics, but on any of materiel, beautiful

em

broidery will be achieved by the neic ‘of 5mzDcery Spring. (Fg. 21.

. 21 9 Fl

TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT BUILT-IN LIGHT SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES:

-

,

ro

USE THE DROP FEED DIAL

DIL SEWING MACHINE CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES —-‘—.,—,‘-,,,,.-,.—-

‘.—

“.


14.

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

BUILT

-

IN LIGHT

Lamp housing is encase d in the Face Plate for getting adequate cnd gla reless light around the needle point which is ver y convenient in working even at night or with dim light. Fig. 22) You mcy replace a lifeless bub with a new one as iu ced. (Fig 2 Bulbs (15W) may be obt ained at any deaers, department stoes and cleciricci shops. The SVVITCH for !his Lam p is in the position indi cated cn illustraTion. (Fig. 24’

Fig. 24

15. TO OIL SEW1NG MAC HINE In order to operate the machine srnootniy, it is alw ays important that all the mo vina parts of the machine are oiled in moderation. A Sew ing Machine does not requir e grease and a DROP OF OIL is sufficient at each poi nt. The parts to be oiled are illustrated in Fig. 28 and the Vital parts such as Oscilla ting Shaft Front Bearing, Os cil lating Shaft Back Bearn g, Feed Regulator, Oscilla ting rock shaft, Crank Conne cting Rod, SHde take up lev er ink & hnge pin, Arm shaft busHng front and Arm shaft bushing back are automatical ly oiled by our special aevice.

Fie. 26

7

I

Z!

7 Fig. 27

‘-‘

I


You can automatically oil the vital parts of your machine by pressing the OIL1NG BUTTON (Fig. 25) o few times. If you ore using your sew ing machine daily, do this once or twice a week. After oiling, run the machine rapidly for a few minutes Fig. 28 to let the oil reach every moving part. You may check on through the PLASTIC VIEWER how much oil is being If no oil is applied by doing so, you may find that applied by pressing the button. the oil tank is empty.

HOW TO FILL THE OIL TANK Take off the TOP COVER by releasing the screws on the cover and inside the face plate as illustrated. (Fig. 26, 27) Remove the oil button and fill the tank. (Fig. 28) Never use impure oils lest they should hinder the flow throuah the pipes and burden the operation of the Sewing Machine. ® (Fig, 29) The parts to be oiled automatically are shown by ® —

®

Slide take up lever link & hince pin

®

Arm shcft bushing front

®

Feed regulator

®

Crank connecting rod

(j

.

shaft bushing bock Osciiiatng shaft front bearing

( Oscillating shaft back bearing Oscillating rock snaft

—H

Fig. 29

BUILT-IN LIGHT

TO OIL SEWING MACHINE

SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS

CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES

NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES

-


16. SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS TO TURN CORNERS: 1. Stop the machine with needle while it is still in the material. 2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. 3. Lower the presser foot and resume sewing. TO SEW ELASTIC FABRICS: In sewing such elastic materials as flannels, bias cut cloths, etc., it is necessary to sew them with moderately low thread tension.

If not, the thread will break when

the sewn materials are stretched. TO SEW VERY THIN CLOTH: When sewing very thin cloth which tends to crumple as you sew, place a sheet of newspaper or any other thin paper underneath the material and sew with the shortest stitch possible.

This will keep your v.ork from crumpling.

BASTING 1. Use a thicker lower thread than the upper. 2. Lower the tension of the upper thread (and/or raise the lower thread tension) and employ the longest stitch possible. 3. The stitches may then be easily undone by pulling the lower thread. =

TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN RERFECT CONDITION: 1

Keep all movmg par s of the machine constantly oiled and clean 1

2. Always turn balance wheel towards you, even when by hand. 3. Do not run machine without cloth. 4. When sewing, do not pull the material lest you will bend the needle. machine is designed to feed itself. 5. Keep hinged plate closed when operating the machine. 6. Do not operate machine when presser bar lifter is raised.

The

::


17. CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD: Incorrect threading. 2. Upper thread tension too high. 3. Faulty needle, or needle set in incorrectly. 4. Needle brushing against presser loot or other attachments. 5. Needle eye too small for thread used. 6. Starting the machine suddenly or with a jerk. 7. Starting the machine with the take up lever at its highest point. 1

.

BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD: 1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case. 2. Lower thread tension too high. 3. Bobbin being wound too fully. 4. Rough edge of hole in throat plate caused by improper needle action. BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE: 1. Pulling the fabric while machine -is runnng; thus causng the needle to strike the throat plate. 2. Using bent needle.

SKIPPING STITCHES: 1. Using bent or blunt needles. 2. Needle inserted incorrectly.

3. Needle threaded improperly. 4. Using wrong sized needle. 5. Pressure of presser toot insufficient, especially when sewing heavy material.

UNEVEN STITCHES: 1 Presser foot resting evenly on material. 2. Feed dog not being high enough. .

3. Too short stitches used. 4. Pulling the cloth while the machine is running. 5. Using too fine a needle with too coarse a thread.

SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS NEEDLE AND THREAD SLZES

CAUSES OF COMMON DIFFICIJI.TIES


,0 or B

1

(Pxtra-Heavy)

4 or 21

(Heavy)

3 or ] 9

(Medium-Heavy)

2 or 1 8

(Light-Heavy)

or 16

(Medium)

14

(Medium-Pine)

1

Needles

Sizes & Grades of

For bags, canvas, coarse cloths arid heavy goods.

-

Heavy woven suiting, oating, cluck, ticking drilling , , canvas and sacking. For heavy wash uniforms, bedding supplie s for hospitals, hots end camps.

Heavy woven coating, lightweight canvas , bed ticking, upholstery and awning materials, slipcover fabrics . Forwork or sports uniforms, Suits made of strong linen or cotton Fabrics, awnings, slip covers nd mattresses.

Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. For men’s work shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy quilting and Fabric Furnishings.

Dress silks ansi cottons, light weight woolen s, draperies, fabric furnishings. l:or general household sewing , fine men’s shirts, smoclis, window draperies and Fabric de,oratio,,s.

Medum light-weight and summertime Fabric s. For house dresses, children’s dresses, washable cotton dresses, aprons, curtains.

Type of Pabric and Work to be Done

Very Coarse

10 to 30

30 to 40

40 to 60

60 to 80

80 to 100

Cotton

Twist

Twist

D

Twist

C

Twist

A&B

Twist

0

Silk

-

to 60

60 to 80

Linen

SlZ Op THREAD

NEDL AND THREAD SIZES (USE 15 x 1 NEE DLE ONLY)



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