White 173 x by David Mannock

Removing the Work Care and Maintenance

Darning and Mending

General Sewing Light Weight Fabrics

Adjusting Pressure and Feed

Sewing in Reverse Adjusting the Tensions

Setting Stitch Length Stitch Length Chart

Threading the Bobbin Case Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle

Upper Threading Setting the Needle

Needle and Thread Chart Winding the Bobbin

Features and Parts

Binder Ruffler Cord and Zipper Foot

13 13 14

Button Sew-On Decorators

15 16 17-18

Blind Stitch Hemmer

Buttonholer

16-17

Darning Spring

14-15

Hemmer

Edgestitcher

Attachments Attachment Foot

Trouble Chart

8.9 10

Accessories

Changing the Belt Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle

6-7

2-3.4

tPage]

INDEX

22-24

20-21

18-19

[Pagej

h* 2

rOOl

‘N \ “S

FEATURES AND PARTS ® Spool Pins

(Front View)

Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw

Needle Clamp and Screw

® Bobbin Winder

Needle Bar Thread Guide

® Stitch Length Dial

Face Plate Thread Guide

® Motor Cover Plate

Tension Regulator

Sew Lite Switch

® Push Button Reverse

Take-up Lever

Face Plate

®Bed

Pressure Release-Darner

® Needle Plate—Seam Guide

Arm Thread Guides

FEATURES AND PARTS

(Back view)

1 Fig. 2

@ Presser Bar Lifter

Â® Thread Cutter

Head Hinge Mounting Holes

NEEDLE—THREAD—FABRIC—STITCHING GUIDE Needle No

Machine

Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking, canvas, duck, etc.

Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette Medium heavy drapery fabric, veleveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc.

Fabric

Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, Bnen, chintz, shantung, etc. Sheer voile, lawn, dimity, crepe, handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc. Very sheer chiffon, batiste, lace, organdy, nirion, net, marquisette, etc.

Cotton Thread

Mercerized Thread

6 to 8

10 to 30

Heavy Duty

8 to 10

30 to 40

Heavy Duty

10 to 12

40 to 60

Heavy Duty

12 to 14

60 to 80

14 to 16 (Plastic film) 8 to 10

80 to 100

16 to 20

100 to 150

Silk or Nylon

-Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

WINDING THE BOBBIN Disengage the

hand wheel (2,

Fig.

4) from

the

stitching mechanism by turning clutch (3, Fig. 4) toward you or counter-clockwise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins. Lead thread through arm thread guides, (A, Fig. 3) and down between tension disc, 7, at the base of the machine. Put end of thread through a hole in bobbin flange (Fig. 5) from inside to outside and place bobbin, (B, Fig. 3) on spindle of bobbin winder (4, Fig. 3) fitting the notch in bobbinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin windey pulley against hand wheel.

Hold

thread end loosely and start machine slowly. Bobbin will be released when filled. Hold the hand wheel and turn clutch away from you until

sewing

mechanism

is engaged

so that the

needle moves up and down when you turn the hand wheel. Break off loose thread end used to start the windFig. 5

ing.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;1 qq

UPPER THREADING

(Fig. 6)

1. Place spool of thread on left hand spool pin. 2. Lead thread through upper thread guides (A), 3. down and around tension discs (B) from right to left, 4. into check spring (C), 5. continue to pull on thread until it hooks over hook (D), 6. up into take up (E) from right to left, 7. down into thread guide (F), 8. through the needle bar thread guide (G); and, 9. into needle from left to right. Pull three or four inches of thread through needle. Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 7) will be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four inches long.

Fig. 7

EEDLE SETTiNG THE N

toward you turning hand wheel by , int po st he hig its to the needle bar (A) ed or replaced. See Fig. 8. Raise edle can be remov ne d an (B) ew scr sen needle clamp rd as far as it by hand. Then loo clamp push it upwa le ed ne in T) GH RI edle (Flat Side to securely a screw When replacing ne le clamp screw (5) ed ne the g nin hte clamp hole, tig will go into needle driver. olution of the balance make one complete rev , dle nee the ng ngi After cha rect position. e the needle is in the cor wheel by hand to be sur

C C

Fig. 8

THREADING THE BOBBIN

CASE

, case between thumb and forefinger of left hand Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 9). Hold bobbin thumb bobbin case is on top, take the bobbin between so that the slot in the edge of the d on top leads from left to right. and forefinger of right hand so that the threa the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull on spring and into the fork-shaped opening shown in Fig. 10, and draw it under the tensi of the spring as shown in Fig. 11.

SLOT SLOT

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

PLACING BOBBIN CASE Raise needle bar to highest position, and lift hinged cover plate. (See 12, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case latch (D, Fig. 12), between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger

C C

(E) is opposite the shuttle race notch, (A). Press the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on the center post of Then release the bobbin case latch, (D). Press bobbin case again after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case is locked

the shuttle.

Fig. 12

securely. Close the cover plate.

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial shown in Fig. 13. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 8 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot between markings for a variety of Turn the dial to the right to lenghten lengths. and to the left to shorten the stitch. The number stitch Length you choose appears under the indi cator.

Fig. 13

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate) Figures on indicator Number of stitches per inch

0 No Feeding

50 30 20 12

5 101

SEWING IN REVERSE When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press in the button R, 8, Fig. 1, as far down as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held down. C

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS

Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 14) to the right. To decrease, turn to the left. Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded correctly. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small screw (Fig. 15) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. When the upper tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 16). When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 17). When the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 18).

Fig. 14

c C

_ _

15 Fi g. 16

Fig. 17

Fig. 18 Fig. 15

Fig. 19

ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FAB RIC GENERAL SEWING Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or darner release, 22, Fig. 19, is at its lowest position and the drop feed knob is turned to “HI” position, Fig. 20. SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily

on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, (A, Fig. 21) and then press cap (B) down again to halfway spot. Lower the feed slightly by turning the black dot on the knob to “LO” position.

Fig. 20

ARNtNG AND MENDING darning freely in any direction for n order to move the fabric press ssure cap B completely by nd mending, release the pre , (A, Fig. 21). ing down on the snap lock well ition, which drops the feed Turn the knob to”DN” pos rn knob return feed to normal, retu below the needle plate. To to “HI”.

PREPARING TO SEW

g to sew. Fig. 21 hest point before startin Have take-up lever at hig this as l eria mat ing by pulling the Do not try to help the feed cause it to break. may deflect the needle and sser foot. hout material under the pre NEVER run machine wit the presser foot. er the presser foot and lower und n itio pos in s ead thr Place material and now ready is at its highest point. You are dle nee the il unt you ard Turn the hand wheel tow ary to touch the highest point, it is not necess its at dle nee the ing hav to begin sewing. By ed of the machine ely press the control. The spe mer You e. hin mac the hand wheel to start on the control. amount of pressure exerted the ing reas dec or ing eas is regulated by incr

C C C

L4L

EMOVING THE WORK highest d take-up lever and needle bar are at the sure to stop the machine when the threa and the fabric back and to the left, Fig. 22, sition. Now raise the presser foot and draw s, hand both in d threa ing Pull down slightly, hold ss the threads over the thread cutter. foot. er press e the ends of thread under the as not to bend the needle, Fig 23. Leav

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

Fig. 24

MACHINE ARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR OW TO OIL YOUR MACHiNE our machine should be oiled occasionally to nds ep it operating smoothly, how often depe i the amount of sewing you do. efore oiling the upper part of the sewing unit points indicated by arrows in Fig. 24 turn and wheel toward you until the take-up lever at its lowest point.

Fig. 25

Avoid over oiling: only a drop is needed at each point. Be sure all points indicated by a red spot receive a drop of oil. To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip the head back on its hinges and oil all moving parts indicated by arrows in Fig. 25.

For oiling needle bar mechanism, open face cover plate, Fig.

26.

C C C

C C

Fig. 26

Fig. 27

HOW TO CHANGE THE BELT

Fig. 28

Fig. 29

If it should ever become necessary to replace the belt on your machine, the hand wheel must first be loosened and moved out. To do this, follow these instructions: 1. Remove clutch nut (A) in center of wheel by taking out the small screw (B) near the edge, Fig. 27. Turn nut counter-clockwise until it can be lifted off. 2. Before moving the hand wheel, note the position of the washer, (C, Fig. 28), which fits under the clutch nut, It may fall out when you are changing the belt. 3. Remove motor cover plate (6, Fig. 28) by loosing screws (E, Fig. 28). 4. Pull hand wheel away from the machine carefully, Fig. 29. Pull it just far enough to make the grooved section which holds the belt accessible. 5. Slide old belt over hand wheel and over pulley on the end of motor. 6. Slide new belt into grooved section and over motor pulley. 7. Push hand wheel back against the machine. 8. If washer (C) has fallen off, replace so that the lips (0) are pointing toward the clutch nut. 9. Replace nut and tighten screw securely. 10. Replace motor cover plate and tighten screws securely. After doing this, turn the clutch toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. If the needle still moves up and down as you turn the hand wheel, again remove the clutch nut. Give the washer a half turn and replace the nut.

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE es The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becom re clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfe with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.

(See Figs 30 and 31)

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

2. Remove bobbin case A), Fig. 30. 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) down ward and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and flg. 30 shuttle body (D). 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint. etc. shuttle. 5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of s to replace the shuttle assembly: When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follow t position. highes 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its against shuttle driver and 2. Place shuttle body, adjust into position. 3. Hook shuttle race cover, (C), over hinge pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle B), making certain the clamps race cover clamps, have been snapped securely into position. 4. Put bobbin into bobbin case. 5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race fitting tongue into notch (E) of race cover.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

V Fi g. 31

ACCESSORIES

1. Plastic Oiler 2

(sealed nd filled) 2. Package of Needles (5)

3. Large Screw Driver

4. Small Screw Driver 5. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins) 6. Bobbins (3)

060 Fig. 32

TROUBLE CHART Trouble

Correction

Probable Cause

in highest position, tilt 1. With take-up lever s and remove bobbin head back on hinge case. CLAMPS BOBBIN CASE

BOBBIN

RACE

)O::I LATCH

If Machine 8inds

Thread or lint in raceway

HOOK RACE

COVER

e tward and remove rac 2. Turn clamps ou cover. 3. Remove hook. lint from all parts, in 4. Clean thread and cluding race. along rim of hook. 5. Run a drop of oil Snap then race cover. 6. Replace hook, clamps into place. bobbin case by latch and 7. Grasp threaded e into notch of race replace, fitting tongu cover.

Trouble

Skipping stitches

Irregular stitches

Uneven stitches

Correction

Probable Cause Bent needle

Discard and replace.

Needle placed incorrectly in clamp

See instruction page No. 10.

Too fine a needle for thread being used

See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.

Upper thread tension too loose

Tighten upper tension.

Improper threading

See threading instruction, page Nos. 8 and 9.

Bobbin not wound evenly

Rewind bobbin.

Pulling or holding material

Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.

Not enough tension on upper thread

Increase tension.

Poor quality thread

Try different thread.

Needle too fine for thread being used

See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.

Trouble

Improperly threaded .

Too much tension Starting with take up in incorrect positon

Upper thre

Correction

Probable Cause

Improper setting of needle

breaking

Eye of needle too sharp

sent or blunt needle

Tension too tight Material puckering

Dull needle

Stitch length too long

s see page Nos. Refer to threading instruction e. 8 & 9 and rethread machin thread by turning Loosen tension on upper . thread tension knob to left take up lever in Always start sewing with highest position. instructions see Refer to needle setting page No. 10. --

-.—

—--..-—

--.-—

Try a new needle. needles and replace Discard all blunt or bent with new. page No. 14. See tensions adjustment Change needle. Reduce stitch length.

of accessories equipped with the basic set es com ne chi ma ing Your sew s book. described earlier in thi g attachments that strate additional timesavin illu es pag ng owi foll The They are available cifically for your machine. spe ed ign des n bee e hav not supply you with r dealer. If your dealer can at modest cost from you t number. Then you order them for you by par these items, ask him to designed for best per eiving the genuine part will be assured of rec chine. formance with your ma l your inquiry directly ler is not available mai if a sewing machine dea to:

E COMPANY WHITE SEWING MACHIN 11750 BEREA ROAD CLEVELAND, OHIO 44111

In Canada:

DUSTRIES, LTD. WHITE CONSOLIDATED IN 1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD RIO SCARBOROUGH 733, ONTA

AVAILABLE FOR YOUR SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS MACHINE Fig. 33

C C

—PART

1403

—PART

4990

Darning Spring

Ruffler

f—PART

k—PART

82528

÷-PART

74159

Edgestitcher

Binder

Attachment Foot

76554

C. C.

j” PART

76552

%“ PART

76552

Hem m ers

PART

76551

“

PART

76550

C C

ATTACHMENT FOOT

Fig. 34

In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the hem mers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and replace it with the attachment foot Fig. 34. Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers, sliding the attachment to the left as far as possible and tighten screw. The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move the at tachment to the correct position before tightening the mounting screw.

THE EDGESTITCHER The edgestitcher is used in mak ing lace insertions, edgings and The slots serve as pipings. sew lace edging to . To guides fabric, place the material you want on top in slot 1 and the other piece in slot 4, Fig. 36. To trim with a wide piping, place Fig. 36 Fig. 35 the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the piping to the left in slot 3, for a narrow piping, place the fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3. Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a french seam.

\\ 28 C

BINDER it This attachment folds bias binding and applies on Slots on. operati one to the edge of material in scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercial folded bias binding. The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide. FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 37) Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust sliding binder to right or left.

C C

TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 38) Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in one operation. When two are used, always skip one size between widths, inserting each in correct size slot. HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 39) Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a couple of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, al most to fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw back until cut opens and binding encircles open end of scroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust if necessary.

Fig. 38

C. C.

RUFFLER The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;eating. Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. This highly versatile attachment, despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress, etc.

Fig. 39-A

Fig. 40-A

Fig. 41-A

N 30

THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT This attachment is used to make and insert covered cording, and to sew in Loosen thumb screw to zippers. slide foot to either right or left of needle. CORDiNG. Fold bias strip of fabric cover cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so needle is centered in needle hole. Machine bastes cord in place (Fig. 42). To sew covered cord to material, needle reset adjustable foot so stitches closer â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;to cord, and on edge of base fabric.

SEWING IN A ZIPPER

Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along edge of foot (Fig. 43). Stitching should be close to zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to sew from either right or left side, whichever is more convenient.

Fig. 43

THE SET OF HEMMERS Before attaching any of the hemmers, be -sure bobbin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn hand wheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bob bin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch ioop and carry upper thread to back of hemmer. inch for two inches along edge, hold at Fold material each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over spoon Fig. 44). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.

Fig. 44

DARNING SPRING HOW TO ATTACH Remove presser foot, unthread needle,

place

darner

spring on needle and slip hook up over needle clamp.

Fig. 45

HOLES MAKE BUTTON

;‘i

j PART

1. 3i Ji

Fig. 46)

rm in size ery time.., all unifo ev es ol nh tto bu Perfect over for you. Buttonholer take when you let the t even guide the machine you do no Once it’s on the elf. If comes oler thinks for its nh tto bu e th .., ic fabr es ranging keys for buttonhol e siz nt re ffe di e with fiv th the straight 16” to 1-1/16” in bo in length from 5,/ ed this Button Once you have us and keyhole type. ter time saving e there’s no grea iz al re ll wi u yo holer sewing machine. accessory for your also available. e buttonholes are IKeys for other siz

2013

Fig. 46

N BUTTON SEW-O

(Fig. 47)

ert which will conv ing attachment sav e— tim us a rio is va is Th buttons of unit that will sew a to ne hi ac m your you care to sew. size on any item attachment, r the foot of the de un n tto bu e th ial Just place w it to the mater take over and se ne hi ac m e th let ing manner. d in a neat appear quickly, easily an

PART

7622 Fig. 47

DECORATOR

••

Fig. 48)

“S.

PAR 6O22

chine new decorator your ma With the wonderful em of r ontrolled performe converts to a master-c ove rem t It’s so simple, too. Jus broidery magic. ready ch the “A.D.” and you’re the presser foot, atta Each ent decorative patterns. to make eight differ and th wid many variations in pattern of course, has co de are built right into the length. All designs you effort to a minimum...and rator, reducing your s. standard needle use ordinary thread,

Fig. 48

ER BLIND STITCH HEMM

(Fig. 49)

ckly ent you are able to qui With the use of this attachm skirts, d hems on dresses, produce invisible stitche hand of rs y tedious hou draperies, etc. Also save man k. that professional loo work and give your sewing the attachment take over. Just fold your material and let PART

7622 Fig. 49

MEMO

C C