White 217edss x

DELUXE ZIG ZAG SEWING MACHINE

‘‘‘

‘‘‘

‘‘‘

‘

o

rn

bInd

hi

a

orner

stitch

scssirsn

Sewine unIt tn r’-’place the bulb To oil the michne Do not cal the motor Otreratnct hints

Stretch stitching

But tons

feed dog, Adjusting Three posit msS entnoiders, darning and fur sewing Embrorder Darning

Zippers

fir’s

Hecimm foot) To make a felled r..ear I: mi he arid ihu mbsc is, usc

1 is

1

To make satin sttch Jo madr’ zigzag stitch To sec. .arious fl.ittflrrrs Need l pius hon iCVcm sew :.arr patterris hot Jo ohanrie the presser o meir Buitorholes To nsake over lock stitch

To make zigzag stitch

on

thP

bt tons

pressure,

To Remove the work To Piqi lip’ the length f sttch Reverse sewing To RcQU 5st the stitch f mt ion To Requ ate the needie tnsTp Rprnrive accumulated nt ii clean Hook & Race

Straight stitching

To do

Description ot machine Model Replacrnq the Needle Needle arid Phread evenly Winding the Bobber, How to wind the Bobbin .. ...’ .... .... c.. n B:’hhi Threadi ri the r terscn Bnbhr the tnri Acitus Re o.’cq the B -h’. ‘sse nser prig the Bnchn cast:’ Thrednu the m hir’

Welcome

CONTENTS

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 28 29

21

p

20

19

16 17 18 18 18

15

1 14 .1 15

12

10 It) 1 1

9

9

8

6 7 7

6

5

4

1 3

owliers

of this new model zigzag

* Stretch Stitching-by selecting lever.

* Automatic Zig-Zag Petterns-can by easily replaced.

* Snap out Race-for convenient cleaning of race and hook.

* Modern disc Balance Wheel.

* Zig-Zag Pattern-can be easily changed while sewing by moving the zigzag lever.

button in

* Instant Reverse Sewing-by pushing the reverse

* Tension Dial-allows the tension of the upper thread to be easily and accurately adjusted to suit the material.

This mochine is precision built for o lifetime of sewing pleasure It will require o minImum amount of maintenance and will give the maximum in firsl class service.

This manual provides all the information necessary to operate the machine and we suggesl you reod the following instructions very carefully in order to get th. most from your machine.

those wonderful features,

You now hove one of the finest modern fcricy zigzag machines mode, with oil

machine.

Welcome to the growing fiily of happy

WELCOME

MODEL 21 7EDSS

11

1o

9

8

7

6.

—1--

Fig 1-A

Bobbin winder ihrad guide Thread take up pvr Fac plat’ Armttread guide A Tension dial Check spring Arm thread guide B

9.

10. Needle bar 11. Needle

8.

5.

6.

7.

4.

3

2. Arm cover thread guide

1. Arm cover

DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE

17

18

20

11

to

9

it—-..

7

6

r

iflS

Bed plate Arm c’ rn,r(e St tch Requltur du (Reverse button) Stop r n)turi .riub Bulanc e vuheel Bobbin w nder

Presser too Needle (Jdr4 ShOe pDIe tie Needle

1).

20.

21.

22 Spo

18.

1 2.

13.

14 15 16.

1 7,

MODEL 2O7EDSS

2

7jzuq dial (lever) Presser bar jfrpr Thread cutter Sew, ng i gtc t swi t..tc Nedie pnsihccrl fever (Reset lever) 28. Pressrtri regulator 29. Drop feed 30. Stretch stitch selector lever

23 24 25, 26.

27.

I?

18

19

‘be

areser

3

Ot

standard 15 >ç 1

needles,

TDWAD

YOU

turning

needle and si Je ‘be new need e up

intO

(11)

by

the needle clomp

hand,

he balance

Loosen the needle clamp screw (A

(20)

s hcohesr pocnt by

‘.eel

to

Th ‘eploce ‘e needte rose “e needle

chart on page 4)

all sewing mochne stores. (For

Use

correct s ze consult

ovolobie

Note

(13)

.

/EZ

Fg.

4

wtIl go.

FLAT SIDE TQsiAD THE BALAN’E ‘iHEEL as for as it s in correct position, then fasten the needle ‘A’ben the needle h’s the op For best sewing results change needles frequently. clamp securely

Pemoe

Fig

—FLAT SIDE

NEEDLE CLAMP

REPLACING THE NEEDLE

TOP, “time”, and skipped or

BALANCE WHEEL the

imperfect stitches will result

FLAT SIDE TOWARD THE

Unless the needle is in

ct

the bobbin as used on top.

(Heavy)

19

(Medium.

Heavy)

18

Light.Heovy’)

16

Mediuni

‘4

fedium. Fine

1)

Needles

Sizes & Grodes

of

For detailed information consult follow.

tabric furnishngs. For

general

4

Heavy woven suiiing, cooling duck lick, ing, drilling, convos and socking, For heavy wash uniforms, bedding supplies for hospi ‘alt ond camps.

sup covers and moiiresse.

Heavy woven cooling. lighi.weight canvas, bed ticking, ichoisiery ond owning male. riols, slipcover labrcs. uits made For work or sporis unitorms, 5 of strong linen or cotton fabrics, owning

Heavy c’eionne, modros, muslin brocodes and aults.

For men’s work shins, smocks and aprons. heavy quilting and fabric furnishings.

household sewing fine rnerr’s shirts, smocks, window draperies and fobtic decoraicrts.

draperies.

Dress silks and cotiOn light weqbi woolens

CUtiOiflS,

10

to 40

30

oo

40

80

to

60

oo

80

children’s dresses hone dresses woshoble cotton dress. ocrons. lighi.weighi

Med’m lightweight & svrnrneriime fabrics.

For

Cotton

Type of Fabric and Work to be Done

J

Twist

E

Twitt

D

Twist

C

Twist

1 A&8

Twist

0

Silk

60

Linen

SIZE OF THREAD

NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES ,USE 15x1 NEEDLE ONLY) CHART

ing chart.

thread

In general sewing, use the some size

Use a needle suBiciently large to permit the

thread to pass freely through the eye.

be suitable to the moteriol,

orm to the size of the thread and both should t The size of the needle should con

and needles may break.

machine will be out of

CLEAR TO THE

fecf stiiehes and may cause the needle to break.

Never use a bent needle, nor one with a blunt point, since this causes imper.

NEEDLE AND THREAD

bobbin.

the sides of the Do not wind the bobbin so full that the thread extends beyond

F

Fig. 5-8

Rear view of machine

,

Fig. 5-C

‘‘1’

5

To correct uneven winding of the bobbin, proceed as follows: 1. If more thread winds at the top of the bobbin, loosen screw (DI and shift thread guide (El slightly downward.

Repeat as necessary until bobbin winds evenly. (Fig. 5.8), and shift 2. If more thread winds at the bottom of the bobbin, loosen screw (Dl thread guide I El slightly upward Repeat as necessary until bobbin winds evenly. (Fig. 5-B). disc and 3. When winding the bobbin, be sure that the thread goes under the tension Fig. 5-C). winder. bobbin through right s(o IF), and then to the Note This machine uses standard 15 class bobbin.

C

HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN EVENLY

8. Break off the thread, and remove the bobbin. your right hand tighten the 9. Hold the balance wheel with your left hand and with Figs.

5.A 5.B & 5-C) (See you. stop motion knob by turning it away from

4.

spindle. the bobbin from the Run the end of the thread through any hole in the tap side of bobbin. Thread the from projecting thread of inches 4 3 to inside out, leaving should not be allowed to catch over the edge of the bobbin. and the thread will be 5. Now, you can operate the machine as in ordinary sewing wound Operate thy machine slowly to wind the bobbin evenly. the hole in the bobbin should 6. The oose end of thy thread which is threaded through off the loose end. be held by hand until a few coils are wound. Then break and press the bobbin machine the stop wound, 7. When the bobbin is completely the balance wheel. winder spindle IC) to left so that the bobbin winder disengages

This engages the the bobbin winder spindle (C) to right until a “Click” is heard, bobbin winder with the balance wheel. thread under the tension disc 3. Place a spool of therad on the spool pin )Al, run the to the bobbin on the IE) and then through the left slot of thread guide (B) and back

Fig. 5-A

your right hand loosen 1. Hold the balance wheel 120) with your left hand, and with now turn the the stop motion knob (19) by turning it toward you, You can moving. mechanism sewing other and bar needle t the balance wheel withou it down firmly. Press 2. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle IC) and push

WINDING THE BOBBIN

the

trailing

thread into

the

sot,

the tension spring.

8

—6—

All machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory therefore if is seldom necessary to alter the BOBBIN tension Should it become necessary, however, to do so, tighten the tension spring screw slightly to increase the tension and loosen the screw slightly to less n the tension, using the small screw driver provided for the purpose. See Fig. 9) Make sure to turn the screw a quarter turn or less in one adjustment and test ‘He tension.

ADJUSTING THE BOBBIN TENSION

fig

Bobbin rotates counter.ciock wjse if inserted correcty.

There shoutd be a slight tenson on he thraac s 1 is pulled ‘hrough the spring and the bobbin should unwind freely.

(Fig. 7’)

long opening under

down and to the left until if enters the

pull

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and

slot facing upward. With 3 or 4 inches of thread troiling in the palm, hold the bobbin between the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand. (Fig. 6)

Hold the bobbin case between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand with the

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Fig. 9

Fig. 7

Fig, 6

,

. 10 9 F

7

Turn the balance wheel (20) toward you until the needle is at its high est position.

Slide the Slide Plate (14) to the left With left thumb and forefinger, grasp the hrsged latch (Fig. 10-A) at the front of the bobbin case, hold ing it securely as you withdraw the bobbin case from the holder post (D) toward you and Out of Fig. 11 the machine. (As long as you hold the hinged latch (A as explained To remove the the bobbin case above, ‘the bobbin will not foIl out of d and permit nwar dow case bobbin from the bobbin case, hold the bobbin . the lotch to snap back into place

REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE

.

5 and ng it in the bobbin case (see pages After winding a bobbin and placi ained expf (as r inge foref thumb and hold the bobbin case latch with left 6 uding protr the g Keepin out. falling above) to prevent the bobbin from the press of the race ring, finger (B) straight up toward the notch (C) the s enter ginger g udin protr until the bobbin case into the holder post (D) will catch case in of bobb nism mecha the notch. When in correct position, the bobbin case firmly in ptace. the holder post of shuttle hook holding leove three or four inches of IT. This Operation is easy NEVER FORCE t up through the needle plate hole thread hanging free. This will be brough as shown on page 8.

INSERTING THE BOBBIN CASE

7,

6.

S.

4.

3.

2.

1.

J

H

, 72 9 F

8

—

8.

Fig. 13

shown in Fig.

13.

through the needle hole in the needle plate ll5t, as shown (Fig. 1 2( Lay both ends of rEread under and to tHe back of the presser foot 1121, as

and (Jr, from the LEFT to RIGHT and dra the thread Now thread the needle (K out ahout si inches, wheel toward von until the Holding end f the thread turn he balance g the Lnder thread, hIn catc needle moves down and up again, thus n pull the e’d of the hes DOu , 1 at hig us When the take-up lever (41 is needle rej3 you are hold. ing and the under thread will be brought up with it

(‘i,

d toward you unhi the needle () Turn the balance wheel (20) by han is a? ifs highest point. pass the thread Piace a spool of thread on the spool pin (22) and een the tension n betw dow B(. and (A des through the upper thread gui disc C from the Right o Left passing over the check spring Now bring the thread up, pulling up (F de gui ad thread guide D and in the thre of the threcd take.up ever Carry the thread up to and into the eye ugh the thread gudes thro n from R1GHT to LEFT and dow

THREADING THE MACHINE

. 74 9 F

I

0

-

right hand toward (201 .irh ,e e wheel a nc b a Turn lhe t Raise the Stop stitching pont. t hes hig is dl to hread rake up lever w the dra you to raise be Now 1241 t th presser bar lifter 0 the cut or presser foo by means ak bre and es to the let about eughi nch sewn fabric back and threads

TO REMOVE THE WORK

thread is be operated until the

under the presser foot, mochune without materual Never operate me will lock and cannot ered to, your machne If this is not stricliy adh the race. t o cleaned out

NOTE.’

Thread the machine.

14. The machine will t position as shown in Fg. Set zigzag dial (231 at l sew the straight stitch.

Pause the Dount its highest is at el (20) until needle back of the Turn the balance whe to er and and with both threads und r Corn. iltie presser bar lifter (24) bar sser n, then lower Dre insert material to be sew 00 f presser t . towards you ing the balance wheel mence to sew by turn th on scrap moeral before leng h sttc the tension and It is advisable to test the of the wørk Do not help the feeding acuai garmen starting to sew the cause it to and dle defied the nee l, as this may by puilng the materia s without assistance, break, The machine feed

23

STRAIGHT STITCHING

78

(B)

The stitch regulator dial (A) is also used to stitch in reverse, When reverse stitching is wanted for tacking seams, posts the Reverse button (A) in on ti it stops, The stitch length WIll remain the same because this is control led by the mechanism.

REVERSE SEWING

Fg. 75

Al

stitch length you wont. will contnue sewing If too close to 0, the machine will not feed at all, and in one spot.

NEVER SEW OP USE THE MACHINE IN ZERO POSlTION

le to obtain different The STITCH REGULATOR DIAL (18 makes it possib the dial IA) and the around B) Numbers turn. stitch lengths by a simple The higher the number the Indicator C are your stitch length guides.

For silks, longer the stitch, For heavier materials, use the high numbers. numbers. low the use materials, nylons ond thin Indicator C poins ic the To regulate the stitch, turn the Dial A) until the

TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF STITCH

Fig. 16

he thread suitable to the mater

ci

See page 4

SttC

is up.

All adjustments should be made while the presser foot is down since on release does riot permit adjustments to be made while the presser foot

ccn usuolly be obtained by varying the tension on the needle

TO REGULATE THE NEEDLE TENSION

Be sure to usc

—11—

T increase the tension, turn the thumb not To on the tension dial (71 clockwise. decrease the tension. turn the nut in the opposite direction, The thumb nut should not be turned abruptly but regulated little by little until the desired tension is ob tained, . 77 9 F The quality of sewing depends on the ten fully familiar sion of thread. Hence, it is necessary for the user to become e. practic with the correct tensions through

A correct thread.

Note :

For perfect stitching, the tension on the upper and under threads should be the equal and lust sufficiently strong to lock both threads in the centre of materials as shown above (A).

If the tension of the needle thread is too light, or if that of the lobbin thread too loose, the needle thread will lie straight along the upper surface of the material, thus making on imperfect stitch, as shown in (B). f the needle is too If the tension of the bobbin Ihread is too tight, or if Iha 0 loose, the bobbin thread will be stratght along the under side of the material, thus making an imperfect stitch, as shown above (C).

(C)

(B)

(A)

TO REGULATE THE STITCH FORMATION

9.

8.

7.

6.

5,

4.

3.

2.

1.

,

(20) by bond toword you unt;l needle

s Ot

‘s

A

E

.

ring

with levers

and

B

Out,

with pin or bottom placed

12—

Fig. 18

.

Replace bobbin and bobbin case, and commence sewing E OPERATIONS DO NOT ATTEftPT TO FORCE ANY OF THE ABOV

Lock reiaircnq

A

C , polished side

in notcri of the race body.

Replace retaining ring

circle with dryer

Turn levers

& (B’i one half turn sideward away from pn and hook D). by graspng srud of hock 2 Remove r3toining ring cC and race hod’, Remove accumulated lint and thread from race rrng hook outord icrrnng perfect Replace hook 2 in race body, with stud focng

Remove bobbin case.

highest point

Turn the balance wheel

TO REMOVE ACCUMULATED LINT OR CLEAN HOOK AND RACE

dl

3)

21

ii

I

Fig. 20

Fig. 19

I

I

(

C.

13

zigzag width you desire and sew By moving the dial, you can select the the various zigzag stitches.

left. (See Fig. 20)

zig/ag stitch will be The further you move the dial to left, the wider lever is ‘set to the extreme The widest zigzag stitch is obtained when the

n, the machine will make When the dial is set at the extreme right positio straight stitch. (See Fig. 19)

MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WiDTH.

stitch. By mcicinc the qzag dial (23) ci.rntrols the width of the The i7 from STRAIGHI to dud from right to left you can widen the stitch

I

TO MAKE ZIGZAG STITCH

(See 3page 14)

Set zigzag dial (23> at the widest position. ually to closest stitch Bring the stitch regulator dial (18) grad Commerce to sew. thread should not appear Adjust thread tension so that ower ct satin stitch, perfe a get can you surface of material, and

MiVMiV

on

8

——-—,-

7

,

,,—-

._JTYTYV

jj , j 4

6

‘‘‘

ij 1 /

5

2

1

Pattern to be sewn

wde r

the extreme

At slow, even

speed frcim the

Fine Set the stitch length at

at

—

14

-

Rest at the extreme left and change to the narrowest zigzag quick 5 and rest. Then change to the extreme left quickly and rest.

Slow, even speed from the cx treme right to left then quickly back to the extreme right,

change to the extreme right Repeat this quickly and rest.

rT’fTe1t33

—.

‘the exoemlefimnghi Repeat from the extreme right I’) eft arrd from the extreme left to right at fast speed To get uniform curve, the moving speed rnustbecontroHed. Repeat from the extreme right to left and from the extreme left to rght at fast speed and rest

I

Set lever (231 trio riqht

Move ziqzq dial (2’l

shown or by use of zigzag cams

J --

Pg 20

-

Pg20

Pig 19

Illustration

-

you can sew the various patterns as By moving /im’ag dial (231 as follows,

To sew various patterns

2. Set the stitch length at 2 to 4.

3. Commence to sew,

t ion.

1. Set zigzag dial (23) at the widest posi

To make zigzag stitch \1\AJ’s/\/sJ

1.

2.

3.

Note:

To make the “Satin” stitch

)

vá

CZgZ)

• •w

A4

fr1

ever (27)

Needle position

Zigzag Dial (231

1 H.

the extreme rght to left Ar slow, even speed from right. to left me extre the and from

The extreme riqht to left, then Slow, even speed from righT, quickly back to the extreme

and i’hange to the widest Rest at the riarrowect zigzag rest. arid , quickly zigzag t zqzag quickly, and rest.

Then change to the oar r’owes from the e right to left and Repeat from the extrem uniform get To speed. fast extreme ift Ic. right at controlled be must speed g movin curve, the

Position of

S TO SEW VARIOUS PATTERN (OR USE OF ZIGZAG CAMS)

Co_Z)

t1

the needle breaking.

at its highes the needle bar (10) must be When selecting needle position, Set need) le, need the the fabric or bend position in order not to tear position le need ctive respe for r or right position lever (271 to left, cente See illustration rwise it will caut position while sewing. Othe Note Do not change needle

NEEDLE POSITION LEVER

$

3

2

1

Ds’en

by liftrng

by

‘e

‘hLr”b scre,,

24)

‘sot oga.’s’ ‘e

foot

he presser bat hOer

turning the balance’ heel

‘humb screw and remove the

2)

Oojnt

ne ;‘ooed s.de s.f ‘ue se:ecied presser

he presser bar

l’ue

00 re oresser f

Rose the presser foot

‘award you.

Raise the needle to its highest

Fig. 24

TO CHANGE THE PRESSER FOOT

a’

1201

Q

R

S

L1M11 Fg. 25

T

U

I :fl V

Note

Fig. 26

17

..

/

Fig 27

-1’”’

garment We suggest you make test samples on a piece of ie same dong. work ore you the o’ buttonho’e the material, before you sew slOwl ‘ Trace length of buttonhole with chalk on the inotenol and sew exactly following the markings so that you con perform the buttonhole as you desire. moteral by When turning the material i80 degrees, if you pull e care wrh t slowly Turn force, needle will bend or break. o regular sewr.g Needle thread should be slightly tighter than thot so that you can get better work,

1. Set Zigzag dial (23) to the narrow zigzag and Stitch regulator dial (18l to fine stitch between 0 and 1. (F ne) 2. Sew to desired length (K to L) and stop the machine with Needle in the material and at left position as shown in Fig. 0.

3. Then, set Zigzag dial to the medium zigzag and turn balance wheel one rotation so that needle is at right position M (Fig. R) and needle bar at lowest position, and turn the materal 180 degree as shown in F g. S. 4. Sew a few stitches (M to N) with the Zigzag dial to the widest zigzag as shown in Fig. T. 5. Reset Zigzag dial to the narrow zigzag and sew otherside (N to 0) of button hole as shown in Fig. U, 6. Sew a few stitches (0 to P) with Zigzag dial to the widest zigzag as shown in Fig. V. careful not to cut 7 Cut buttonhole using seam ripper, being stitching on either side. (Fig. 27)

L

K

TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES

sitch

TO TURN A CORNER

Fig. 28

S

2 3, 4.

1.

A Fig 29

U

with 1 16” overlap on gold the mater ai to the size of hem desired, A the bottom fold as shown in .

Set suich regulator dial 1181 at 2 or longer as desired width Set zigzag dial (23) at desired zigzag bar lifter (24) fabric under the presser foot and lower presser mostly on the catch will stitch the s, zigzog e the machin so that when usr barely bite into the fold. ,B item and will in C After stitching is completed, untold the material as shown

TO BLINDSTITCH

al. Pose ibe presser The m ichine should he stopped with the needle in the moteri lower on directi you wiSh the in and tu’n the materIal hcr ‘be’ sew. to itter start and the presser bar I

r

at 2 or (1 P regroti:i r’,a longer as desired. zigzag 2. Set ziq,’,iq dial (23) at desired width. foot 3. Place the materiol under the presser and lower the presser bar i3ter (24) so that zigzag shtciiing locks over outer edge fig 28 f the rnoier,ol

TO MAKE OVER LOCK STITCH

Nate :

Fig. 3O-(A

—

19

Fig. 30-9’

Even feeding is essential for good Don’t push or pull the fabric. in the scroll The fabric must be kept at the same width hemming.

Prior to folding the edge of the of the hemmer foot at all times, fabric and you con easily fabric, cut a corner off the edge of the r foot, insert the fabric into the scroll of the hemme

hemmer foot while sewing. (Fig. 30-B)

start of the hem edge 5 lust below 5. Draw the fabric toward you until the the needle.

Guide the fabric into the to sew.

6. Lower the hemmer foot and begin

(Fig. 30A)

approximately b of on inch, then fold 2. Fold the edge of the fabric over of about 2 inches. t over again in the some way for a length under the hemmer foot.

3. Place the needle and bobbin threads g of the hemmer foot. Move 4. Insert the fold into the spiral formed openin the fold forms scrotled shape. the fabric slightly bock and forth until

1. Attach hemmer foot.

the hemmer foot turns in the edge of The spiral formed tongue or scroH of the fabric and forms the hem.

TO HEM (HEMMER FOOT)

B SCREW TO USE CLOTH GUIDE 8 THUM

,

2.

1

tighten thumb screw.

20

Fig. 32

of the machine. either one of the two holes in the bed ired distance from the needle and Adust the cloth guide to the requ

as illustrated in of the machine Fasten the cloth guide to the bed screw nb thumb the ting inser , screw thumb Fig, 32 by means of the

e for straight stitching when making This i on attachment designed as a guid widths are wider than presser foot wide hems pm tucks or when seam allows.

4.

3

Open and spread out material and Make sen place right sdes down up edges of moteria! stand 37 Fold the sewn edges oer to the eli and inSert triem nto the scroll of 0 ordinary bemmina ld t the hemmer toot. Se as you wou foot os guide. oving original r hemme Use left edge of tong toe of seam alongside of it. Fig 3l

felling. Proceed in the following masner The hemmer foot ccii also be used for on top of the other with their RIGHT 1, Lay two pieces of cloth one edge of the bottom piece must ex right The sides facing each other. edge of the top piece. right the nd tend about ½ inch beyo ther, 2. Sew both pieces of cloth toge regular a like foot r using the hemme Use the right edge presser foot. of long toe of hemmer foot to guide the bottom piece of material, while the left edge of the some toe serves as a guide for the top piece of material.

TO MAKE A FELLED SEAM

Fig 35

RlgdeZeedIeFtq,34

Left side of needle

Fig. 33

—

—21

—

zipper foot.

Then stitch welting into seam using

Corded Seam Cording gives a professional finish to slipcovers. pillows, children’s clothes and lingerie.

First, make welting by covering cord ing with bias fabric and stitching close to the cord with zipper foot.

For right side of needle, slide foot to the right.

Zipper package will contain easy to follow instructions for stitching.

To adjust foot for left side of needle: loosen screw at back of foot and slide foot to the left so that needle passes through notch on right side of foot.

Lower needle slowly to be sure it will not hit zipper foot, and tighten thumb screw.

Raise needle to its highest position, attach zipper foot, and set dials for straight stitching.

Zipper foot allows you to stitch right next to a raised area such as a zipper or cording. The foot is adjustable so it can be moved to the left or right side of the needle without having to turn the fabric.

Machine Setting

ZIPPERS

Fig. 37.C

(Pro. 37-C

-

—

22 —

finger and the Press the fringe (A) of the darner down with thumb and index completely will be pressure The (Fig, 37-A) up, presser knob (B) will pop Feed (29) Drop the on button “darn” the As well, press released. completely down.

TO DO EMBROIDERY, DARNING AND FOR SEWING ON BUTTONS

Fig. 37-B

(281

Fig. 37-A

)

Fhe pmncSiire of the presser I ocr (hf must be regulated for different types of fabric to obtain proper feeding, To adjust pressure push down outer ring (A) Fig. 37-A with thumb and The center bOron (B) forefinger. will spring up and then the 37-A Fig. pressure an be easily adiusted by being pushed down partially for light or all the way fabrics Fig. 37-B dnwn for rrii-idiurn to heavy fabrics

ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE

Fig 36

For darning, einbroidering and sewnig to on buttons, turn knob to( lower the teed so fabric can be mivpd freely by hand

).

For ordinary straight or zig/SQ stitch This raises ing, turn knob to(,w drop feed to its highest position.

For light weight fabrics, knob can be moved slightly to the left of()to prevent feed from marking fabric,

-

The drop feed or feed dog moves fabric forward or backward under the It can be raised or presser foot. lowered by turning(w EE )knob located on the machine base plate.

THREE POSITIONS OF FEED DOG

Fig 38

—

or

—

23

—

irregular surtace,

stitches close together for a smooth, satiny surface. Overlap stitches tor an

Use straight stitch for ouflining and zig-zag stitch for filling in design. Vary length of stitch simply lw moving hoop faster or slower under needle. Place

Place hoop under needle, Run machine at medium speed, guiding hoop care fully so needle moves along pattern lines.

• press down on outer ring of pressure regulator to release pressure cornpie tel v

• turn fabric feed to DARN

Remove all pressure from fabric

Trace design on right side of fabric.

For best results, place fabric in an embroidery hoop.

Free-motion embroidery allows you to move the fabric in any direction under the needle in order to create your de sign. Ue either a straight stitch or a plain zig-zag stitch.

Machine Setting—

EMBROIDERY

Fig

39

DARNING

—

Move fabric Place fabric under needle. motion to back and forth with an even spaced cover darning area with closely fabric turn Then g. stitchin rows of stitching and sew another layer of across first layer of stitching.

lly when For greater control, especia fabric in place areas, darning larger holes, embroidery hoop. For large al materi ng mendi of baste a piece for base underneath hole to use as a stitching.

fabric Completely release pressure on , DARN to knob by turning fabric feed of ring outer on and by pressing down button pressure regulator until center pops up.

old Worn spots on clothing and househ your with easily linens can he darned machine.

Machine Setting

Upper and lower thread tensions

Fig. 40

plain stitches in lbst hole.

s, first sew one When attaching four-hole button into second set of set of two holes, then stitch with two or three two holes and lock thread

ottach button.

Then sew five to six sNtches to

t will breok.

the balance Before sewing with power, turn sure make to you wheel by hand towards of the that needle will stitch in the centre button the hits needle holes in button. If the

centre of holes in button.

button under the presser Place material or garment together with oblong hole in presser foot. foot, so that holes in button line up with needle to pass through Adjust width of zigzag stitch to permit

remain the same as for ordinary sewing.

for darning and embroidering.

Drop the feed dog as required

button and replace regular presser foot, with

Sewing foot, as shown in Fig. 40.

Raise presser bar

needle to its highest position.

Turn balance wheel towards you to get

BUTTON SEWING

-

zag

‘H 1 ‘I’ “I

Stitch pattern

—

position

Needle Zig-zag width

Stitch Length

STRETCH STRAIGHT STITCH Fabric feed

Zig-zag width Fabric feed

Fig. 42

It is

-—2 6--

Rickrack stitch can be used as a heavyduty all-purpose stretch stitch. Each zig-zag stitch consists of three threads or stitches, giving strength and perma nence

Rickrack stitch is a triple stitched zig-zag that resembles rickrack trim, reversible, looking the same on both the right and wrong sides.

HZi 0

position

pattern

.rc:

Needle

Stitch

Stitch Length

Use for stitching seams in woven fabrics that receive a lot of strain when worn, such as side seams, crotch seams, and armholes in sportswear and child ren’s clothes.

Stretch straight stitch is a triple lock stitch, combining stretchability and strength. Use for stitching regular seams in knits and stretch fabrics.

RICKRACK STITCH

Presser

—

foot

Machine Setting

foot

LWO_

7_ig

Presser foot

Machine Setting

When sewing knitted or stretch fabrics, choose one of the stretch stitches which allows the seam to stretch with the fabric without breaking the thread. Select polyester or cotton covered polyester thread which has an extra amount of give and is designed for knits and stretch fabrics. Use a ball point needle, especially on lightweight knits.

STRETCH STITCHING

5.

4.

1.

2.

3,

©

TO REPLACE THE BULB

Fig. 44-B

Fig. 44-C

Turn the light switch (C) off.

Loosen the Screw (B) with a screwdriver or a coin as shown in Fig. 44F Move the face plate away from you (* ----) as shown in Fig. 44-A until th switch (C) passes through the hole which is at the back of the face plat and then lift up ( ) the face plate so that you can remove it from th machine.

When bulb has the “screw in socket” type base, remove the bulb as you d a conventional light bulb. Fig. 44-C. When bulb has the “bayonet socket” type base, push in the bulb and 1/4 turn to the left and the bulb will dtop out. Fig. 44-C. Replace the bulb, and place the face plate in the correct positon b securing the Screw (B).

Fig. 44-A

If your machine has the sewing light inside the face plate (A), by turning pushing in the light switch (C) on the back of the machine the light can turned on and off as you wish. Fig. $4-A To operate the machine, the switch must be turned on.

SEWING LIGHT

Fig. 46

at

regular

Use Sewing Machine Oil

28—

the If your machine is equipped with a motor, do not oil the motor because bronze cast impregnated oiled permanently motor shaft revolves in bearings.

No Lubrication is Required.

DO NOT OIL THE MOTOR

NOTE

ports at fricton points

intervols s 1 poo Place a drop of good grade sewing machine oil into each of the oiling work. on rie machire as shown by arrows in Figs. 45 and 46 once every a for idle stand machine use Should of ter about 8 hours t rig doy or o sewing stort you if before oil period, prolonged 9 machine excessvely will couse soiling of tb3 materiol to be sewn.

Olin ew rows o’ stitches on a scrap of materol After oiling machine sew a t Also wipe off any excess oil sews cleanly machine the thot sure to be from the top of the machine. plate, swing To oil needle bar, presser bar and other ports nside the face 5 to the lef’ so moving ports ore accessible. Qf oil moving face plate

‘Ne machine wib always work best if properly oiled and cleaned

Fig. 45

TO OIL THE MACHINE

May be caused by a bent or blunt needle by incorrect the wrong size needle by thread too thick for the

Moy he caused by

(1 2

I

s’k’ng

May be caused by.

Presser foot not resting evenly on material.

Feed not high enough.

Too short a stitch.

Pulling the cloth, Too fine a needle used with too coarse or poor thread,

he

olDie.

—29—

Reduce the tension of upper thread, The stitches may then be easily removed by pulling the lower thread.

BASTING

(1) (2) (3 1 (4) (5’)

UNEVEN STITCHES.

‘

lncorrecr threading of bobhn case I Too tight a iension, 2 3 Bobbin wound too full to revolve freely.

(4 1 Not bringing up under.thread correctly.

(5 Hole ar the needle plate beng rough, due o neede

THE LOWER THREAD BREAKING.

‘

May be caused by Incorrect threoding (2 1 Not bringing up under thread correctly 1 3 1 Upper tension too right, Needle incorrectly set 4 5 Needle rubbing ogoinst attachments or presser foot.

6 ) Needle eye too small for thread. i 7 Storing he machine 01 full sceed r h,gbesi p0r’.

8 Storing ..rhou1 toke.up eer 141 0

THE UPPER THREAD BREAKING.

BREAKING NEEDLES ore usuolly due

0 pulling on the work, causing the needle to get out of line and lo strike the needle plate (151, thus breaking or It may also be due io cresser foot or ottocbmens no’ bending the needle.

Be sure 0 use correct size needle being securely fastened to presser bar chort. needle See and thread for moteriol

setting of the needle size of the needle

SKIPPED STITCHES.

SEE THAT THE PRESSER FOOT (12)

is securely in place and fits snug against the presser bar so that the needle may pass through the opening ri the foot without any interference.

OPERATING HINTS