White 524 x

0

m

F UI

General Sewing Light Weight Fabrics Darning and Monogramming Preparing to Sew Removing the Work Creative Embroidery Samples of Embroidery

Stitch Length Chart Sewing in Roversâ‚Ź Adjusting the Tensions Adjusting Pressure and Feed

Upper Threading Straight Stitching Setting the Stitch Length

Features and Parts Noodle and Thread Chart Setting the Needle Winding the Bobbin Threading the Bobbin Case Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle

11 11 1142 12 12 13 13 13 14 14 15-16

Page 2-3-4 5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11

Accâ‚Źssories Trouble Chart

Quilting Guide Seam Gauge Care and Maintenance Replacing Light Bulb How to Change Belt Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle

Lace Edge French Seam Flat Felled. Seam Hand Rolled Effect

Embroidering with a Hoop Sewing on Buttons Making Buttonholes Blind Stitch Hem How to Use Accessories Narrow Hemmer Lace Trimmed Hem

I NDEX

26-27-28

23-24 24-25 25

22.23 22

20 20 20 20 21 21

Page 16 17 18 19 20 20 20

2

Fig. 1

r’2J

12. Needle Bar Thread G

11. Needle Clamp and S

10. Attachment and Foot

9. Presser Foot

8. Cover Plate

7. Needle Plate—Seam (

6. Drop Feed Buttons

5. Bobbin Winding Tens

4. Push Button Reverse

3. Stitch Length Dial

2. Bobbin Winder

1. Hand Wheel

15. Sew Lite Switch 16. Take-up Lever

3. Stitch Length Dial 4. Push Button Reverse

23. Buttonhole Lever

11. Needle Clamp and Screw 12. Needle Bar Thread Guide

22. Spool Pins

21. Stitch Width Lever

9. Presser Foot 10. Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw

20. Stop Adjustment Screws

8. Cover Plate

79JY’i’ 19. Blind-Hem Lever

18. Arm Thread Guides

7. Needle Plate-Seam Guide

6. Drop Feed Buttons

17. Pressure Release-Darner

14. Tension Regulator

2. Bobbin Winder

5. Bobbin Winding Tension

13. Thread Guides

1. Hand Wheel

(Front View)

FEATURES AND PARTS

4

24. Presser Bar Lifter

T

2

25. Thrcrucl Cutter

Fig.

--

26. Feed

1.

-

afl_

——-

—

I’

-

Very sheer chiffon, batiste, lace, organdy, ninon, net, marquisette, et

Fabric Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking, canvas, duck, etc.

Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc.

Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer, wool, shantung, etc.

Sheer voile, lawn, dimity, crepe, handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc.

NEEDLE

tter

26. Feed

0

1

2

3

4

Needle No

Very sheer chiffon, batiste, lace, organdy, 00 ninon, net, marquisette, etc.

Fabric Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking, canvas, duck, etc.

Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc.

Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer, wool, shantung, etc.

Sheer voile, lawn, dimity, crepe, handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc.

-

100 to 150

80 to 100

14 to 16 (Plastic film) StolO 16 to 20

Cotton Thread 10 to 30 30 to 40 40 to 60

50

50

50

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty

Heavy Duty

Mercerized Thread

STITCHING GUIDE

60 to 80

Machine Stitches Per Inch 6 to 8 8 to 10 10 to 12

-

12 to 14

-

NEEDLE THREAD FABRIC

A

A

A

Silk or Nylon

5

6

Fig. 4

Fio. 3

WINDING THE BOBBIN stitching Disengage the hand wheel (A, Fig. 4.) from the counter or you rd towa h (B) clutc mechanism by turning the l pins, spoo the of one on d threa of l spoo clockwise. Place a on the e guid d (A. Fig. 5) lead thread through the front threa Fig. 5) disc (C. on tensi arm (B. Fig. 5) and down through the a hole gh throu d threa of at the base of the machine. Run end on spindle in the bobbin edge and place bobbin (D. Fig. 5) small pin over in bobb on h notc g the of bobbin winder fittin hand wheel. on spindle. Push bobbin winder pulley against Bobbin . slowly Hold thread end loosely and start machine will be released when it is filled. anism is Turn clutch away from you until sewing mech the hand turn again, engaged so that needle moves when you wheel. winding.

Break off loose thread end used to start the

Alter changing the needle make one complete revo the needle is lution of the Hand wheel by hand to be sure tion. ct posi in the corre

SETTING THE NEEDLE See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar(A to its highest point, turning hand wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen needle clamp screw B) and needle can be removed or replaced. When replacing needle (Flat Side to Right in needle clamp push it upward as far as it will go into needle clamp hole C , tightening the needle clamp screw (B) securely 1 with a screw driver.

Fig. 6

i

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE â‚Ź Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. thun Hold bobbin case between so t1 , and forefinger of left hand bobl the the slot in the edge of the bobl case is on top. Take inger foref between thumb and d threa right hand so that the St . right top leads from left to ca in bobb 2. Insert bobbin into slot of pull the thread into the 7, Fig. in n bobbin case as show spr on tensi draw it under the open and into the fork-shaped Fig. in n show of the spring as

ead end used to start the windi

needle moves when you turn the hal’

)ING THE BOBBIN I wheel (A, Fig. 4.) from the stitching the clutch (B) toward you or counter )ool of thread on one of the spool pins, I through the front thread guide on the )wfl through the tension disc (C. Fig. 5) iine. Run end of thread through a hole d place bobbin (D. Fig. 5) on spindle g the notch on bobbin over small pin 1 bin winder pulley against hand whe Bobbin y and start machine slowly. it is filled. from you until sewing mechanism 15

e needle make oni’e complete reV0 heel by hand to be sure the needle is

NG THE NEEDLE ie needle bar(A to its highest point, )oward you by hand. Then loosen B) and needle can be removed or acing needle (Flat Side to Right in pward as far as it will go into needle ug the needle clamp screw (B) securely

Fig. 6

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 6).

Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between thumb and forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top .leads from left to right. Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 7, and draw it under the tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring as shown in Fig. 8.

Fig. 7

Fig. 5

Fig. 8

S

8

Fig. 9

until latch c.tches on the center post of the shuttle.

THEN release the bobbin case latch, (Dj. Press bobbin case again after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case. is locked securely in place. Close the cover plate.

PLACING BOBBiN CASE IN SHUTTLE Open hit ged cover pldte left of the needle.

(See 8, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case latch, (D) Fig. 9, between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger, (E), is opposite tie shuttle race notch, (A). Press the bobbin case B) into the shLttle as far as possible E

Fig. 10

C

B

(A

-

Hold the end of upper thread goes all the way down and come which then can be pulled out str the presser foot and toward the inches long.

.

1. Turn the hand wheel tcward take-up lever and needle to ti tion.

2. Place spool of thread on the the needle.

3. Lead thread through rear and guides A 4. down and between tension Dis left 5. up and around into the notch (C over tension Discs.

6. Down under thread guide bar 7. up into take-up lever from rig 8. down through guide D in ti 9. into thread guide(F) 10. through needle clamp guide G from left to right pulling thr( of thread through needle.

UPPER THREADI] Fig. 10

D

E

Fig. 10

C

B

Fig.

11

Oe

Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle all the way down and comes back up. A loop will be formed over the upper thread hch then can be pulled out straight (Fig. 11). Place both thread ends under the slot of Presser foot and toward the back of the machine leaving both threads three or four 05 long. ‘eh

1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever and needle to their highest posi tion.

2. Place spool of thread on the spooi pin nearer the needle.

3. Lead thread through rear and front arm thead guides (A).

4. down and between tension Discs(B)from right to left 5. up and around into the notch on check spring (C) over tension Discs.

6. Down under thread guide bar and into guide (D) 7. up into take-up lever from right to left (E) 8. down through guide (D) in thread bar again 9. into thread guide(F) 10. through needle clamp guide (G) and into needle from left to right pulling three to four inches of thread through needle.

UPPER THREADING (Fig. 10)

9

STRAIGHT STITCHING

For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material, you may want to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory box. Both have narrow needle slots.

Changing the Foot and Plate. To change presser foot (9, Fig. 1 loosen thumb screw 10 and remove zigzag foot.

Replace with hinged narrow foot and tighten screw securely.

To change needle plate 7, Fig. 1 remove screws and lift off with cover plate 8 attached. Turn assembly wrong side up. Hold needle plate with right hind and cover plate with left, Fig. 12-A) Press corner of cover plate down slightly and pull needle plate upward, slipping upper pin on needle plate out of groove. Then slide lower pin out.

Attach cover plate to straight stitch plate by reversing the above procedure. Slip pin on lower side of needle plate into groove on cover plate. Slide upper pin under lip and into roove on cover plate. Put plates on ma chine and fasten securely with needle plate screws.

Be sure to set stitch width at 0, or the needle will break in striking the foot or plate. Adjust stops 20 to hold zigzag lever 2 in 0 position. (Fig. 12B)

10

12-A

Fig. 12-B

Fig

S

I

When necessary to change the bobbi screw Fig. 14 on side of the loosen. counterc1ockWi5 to

Always adjust the upper :ensiol when it n as the tension s released turn d al on the upper thread, to the 1â‚Ź clockwise To decrease, turn tension Be{ou the dial the tiqhter the threaded sire that the machine is

ADJUSTING THE

When you wish to sew backwar fa press the R button 4 Fig. 1 in as the button is held down.

Figures on indicator Number of stitches per inch

STITCH LE

regul The length of the stitch is dial the but stitch and 4 is longest, to left the lengths. Turn the dial to shou of the stitch length you choose

SETTIN

20

Fig. 12-B

I-

1

Fig, 12-A

1 21

0.5 39

0 No Feeding

11

2

7

3

4 8

When necessary to change the bobbin tension, tuna small row Fig. 14 on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, erclockwise to loosen.

Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, 0 tension is released when it is raised. To increase tension th °° tile upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to the right, or 0 To decrease turn to the left. The higher the number on cockwis e dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting lower tension be ° that the machine is threaded properly.

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS

0 btt th 0 is held down.

Fig. 13

SEWING IN REVERSE When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or the end of a seam, press the B button (4 Fig. 1 in as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as

Figures on indicator Number of stitches per inch

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, 3, shown in Fig 1. Near 0 is shortest stitch and 4 is longest, but the dial may be set any spot between markings for a variety of lengths. Tuna the dial to the left to lengthen and to right to shorten the stitch. The number of the stitch length you choose should appear under the dot of the control plate.

11

Fig. 14

Fig. 17______

Fig. 16

Fig. 15

17

Fig. 18

Fig. 19

GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar cap or darner rolease(17, Fig. 18), is at its lowest position and the “up” button is Pushed in (Fig. 19).

AND FEEDING OF FABRIC

ADJUSTING PRESSURE

When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 15).

When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16).

When the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric Fig. 17).

12

_

Have take-up lever at highe this by pulling the material as NEVER run machine withou Place material and threads i Turn the hand wheel toward yo th to begin sewing. By having machin hand wheel to start the or d is regulated by increasing

When lighter pressure is req press silk or filmy material, the p down. Release all the way by agair and then press cap(B)down buti slightly by Pushing the “Down” DARNING AND MONOGR Ic fabric freely in any direction i kinds of free-hand embroidery, the pletely by pressing down on completE Push the “Down” button retur bellow the needle plate To button in.

SEWING THIN OR LIGI

Fig 19

g stitching, the pre sure bar cap e ‘up” button is Pu hed in (Fig 19)

Fig. 14

A

Fig. 20

Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break.

NEVER run machine without material under presser foot.

Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot.

Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the hand wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control.

PREPARING TO SEW

When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A,(Fig. 20) and then press cap(B) down agdill to halfway spot. Lower the feed slightly by Pushing the “Down’ button falfway down.

1)ARNING AND MONOGRAMM1NG. In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free-hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B) com pletely by pressing down on the snap lock, A, (Fig. 20), Turn the Push the “Down” button completely down, which drops the feed well bellow the needle plate. To return feed to normal, Push the “UP” button in.

SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS.

13

REMOVING THE WORK

The satin stitch, (Fig. 22), which is really just a very short Fig. 22 zigzag stitch, and the basis for most embroid3ry, is obtained by setting the stitch length as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action.

The width may be set anywhere from just past 0 to 5.

in place.

Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are

CREATIVE EMBROIDERY

the thread cutter.

Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle.

Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot.

Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are at their highest position.

Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left(Figs. 21-A and B),and pass the thread over

14

__________________

Fig. 21-B

Fig. 21-A

width, A. Sew a few stitches at 5 pe lever back to 0 for a short essary, to establish a rhythm. move B. Set locks at 2 and 4, then settings, operating machine raft Gradu C. Set locks at 1 and 5. quid back it 1 to 5, then snap

SAMPLES OF CREATIVE I

EM] With the machine set for a short ba the stitch width or zigzag lever at 1 widths. Try setting the locks b will proceed. After a while you wid the machine, stitch length and

Adjusting the Stitch width wi To stitch continuously at one and r the chosen stitch width numbe heel move to Should you wish I embroidery or buttonholes, set left lock at number S or lower.

The 2 width will be produced

Fig. 21-B

Fig. 21-A

0

A. Sew a few stitches at S width, then quickly move lever back to 0 for a short period. Count, if nec essary, to establish a rhythm.

B. Set locks at 2 and 4, then move lever slowly between settings, operating machine rather fast.

C. Set locks at 1 and 5. Gradually move lever from 1 to 5, then snap it back quickly to 1.

SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY

D

C

B

* Fig. 23

*

EMBROIDERY PATTERNS With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by swinging the stitch width or zigzag lever back and forth between 0 and S or any other combination of widths. Try setting the locks at 1 and 5, 2 and 4, etc. Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After a while you will become quito skillful, varying your designs by the speed of the machine, stitch length and width and the manipulation of the lever.

Adjusting the Stitch width To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, s9t zigzag stitch width lever at the chosen stitch width number and lock in position with zigzag stitch width locks 20-Fig. 1.

Should you wish to move freely between any two widths, such as in doing freehand embroidery or buttonholes, set left hand zigzag width lock at selected number and right hand lock at number 5 or lower.

The 2 width will be produced until the zigzag lever (21, Fig. 12-B) is moved.

15

HOOP

24

and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle.

machine at a rather high speed while moving the hoop slowly with both hands.

foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operato the

Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser

Push Down” drop feed button in,

free hand when embroidering or monogramming.

Release the pressure from the foot (See Fig. 24 by pressing down the snap lock on the darner.

It is easy o follow a stamped design or to work

EMBROIDERING WITH A

Work carefully

B. Drop feed cock stitch width at 4, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric leh of stitches.

Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal, Continue until flower design is complete.

Lock threads by setting stilcli width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design.

to count st. ches.

1). Set both stop at 4, stitch lonq’th at 3. I)o a few zigzag stitches, drop feed for 3 or 4 stitches, tIn n raise it again. By operating the feed knob rhythmically it is not necessary

16

presser foot at 1. Remove hinged (See Figs. 25, 26). button push 2. “DOWN” drop feed lever to ‘0’ 3. Move zigzag width its left Place the button so that the r needle, then gently lower the until width lever to the right Tur: right hole of the button. needle c hand to be sure the and necessary Correct widtlr if cen the into 4. When needle goes five making at medium speed, needle in the left hole. stitch and p.

5. To lock the zigzag 0, and tal at width sot the stitch wish you If hole. in the same the I over toothpick a rounded buttc the two boles, and sew regular way. wind Remove the toothpick and thread. of shank. Fasten end to s Apply the above method h four If a etc. hooks and snaps, th for above procedure the same slightly a Now lift presser foot Hooks, the remaining two holes. for s as procedure with the same

SEWING ON

drop

both hands

Fig. 24

Work carefully

stitches in center of design.

ecHo in fabric left of stitches dii flower design i complete

feed for 3 or 4 thmicajly it is not necessary

tches,

(See Figs. 25, 26).

2. “DOWN” drop feed button pushed in.tion or to the extreme left.

3. Move zigzag width lever to ‘0’ posi es directly under the Place the button so that its left hole com Move the zigzag foot. er press needle, then gently lower the exactly over the es com le need the width lever to the right until l slowly by ce whee balan the Turn right hole of the button. the button. of s hole both s clear le hand to be sure the need s. with stop Correct widtlr if necessary and lock each hole, run the machine of r cente the 4. When needle goes into hes, stopping with the at medium speed, making five or six stitc needle in the left hole. ling, 5. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent rave hes stitc few a take and 0, at h set the stitch widt in the same hole. If you wish you may place een a rounded toothpick over the button, betw in c the two holes, and sew button to fabri Fig. 27 regular way. under the button, forming a Remove the toothpick and wind thread shank. Fasten end of thread. ns with four holes, Apply the above method to sew on butto to be sewn, follow is n hooks and snaps, etc. If a four hole butto n. butto hole the same procedure above for the twopermit stitching to c fabri e Now lift presser foot slightly and mov to the fabric sewn are etc., s the remaining two holes. Hooks, snap ns. butto hole twong with the same procedure as for sewi

n sewing foot.

1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach butto

SEWING ON BUTTONS

Fig. 26

Fig. 25

17

..

1

-

2 4

Fig. 28-B

MI’

23

Fig. 28-A

‘

Step 4

3

Step 3

Fig. 29

Step 2

I LOU

MAKING BUTTONHOLES First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric with a basting line or tailor’s, chalk. Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below to be sure machine adjustments are correct.

1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply unde;neath to prevent piling up of threads. See Fig. 28-A. 2. Set the stitch width at approximately number 2 by locking the left stop adjustment screw 20, Fig. 1 and lock the right stop adjustment screw at extremely right position. Set the stitch length to sew satin stitch.

3. Set buttonhole lever 23, Fig. 1 at 1, lower needle carefully into mark on fabric indicating the beginining of the buttonhole.

Lower presser foot and sew the left side of buttonhole. (Step 1 4. Stop machine and raise needle to the highest position, set buttonhole lever at 2 and sew the bar tack (Step 2 S. With needle at highest position set buttonhole lever at 3 and sew the right side of buttonhole. Step 3 6. Stitch to the starting point of the buttonhole. Stop machine and raise needle to the highest position, set buttonhole lever at 4 and sew the bar tack. (Step 4 7. Should you prefer to sew the right side of button hole (reverse stitching first, start with Step 3 and follow with steps 4, 1 and 2.

If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or paper under the fabric which can be 1Dm away after stitching. And it is always wise to make several buttonholes on scraps of fabric before working on the garment.

For buttonholes with more cutting space, set Step stitch width at less than 2 and for less cutting, higher than 2.

-

Step Step Step Step

1.

2.

3.

4.

(Fig. 32). If hem with folde Turn hem to the depth desix Fold hem back toward righ Place material under press and make a sidewise stitct

Prepare the garment in the same m

sewing.

Blind stitch hems provide a dural

5.

1.

2.

3.

4.

BLIND STITCH HEM Use standard zigzag foot (Fig. Set stitch length dial at number Set buttonhole lever at “M” (23, Lock the stop adjustment scr extreme ends. (20, Fig. 1) Set blind-hem lever at ‘B-H” (Fi

Step 2

Fig. 28-B

Step 1

Fig. 29

Sip 3

Step 4

•1 LIII

et

Fly le.

ng he et

ed ig.

ric nc

Fig. 30

Fig. 31

hi

MD

Step Step Step Step 1.

2.

3.

4.

Fig. 32

STEP

COMP LETED

(Fig. 32). If hem with folded edge is used make first fold 3/8” deep.

Turn hem to the depth desired and bas te 1/4” from upper edge. Press in place.

Fold hem back toward right side of gar ment leaving 1/4” extended.

Place material under presser foot, sew with stitch length set to suit materia l being sewn and make a sidewise stitch about every 3/4” of an inch of sewing.

STEP 1

Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible sewing. and comparable to hand Prepare the garment in the sam e manner as for hand hemming.

5.

1.

2.

3.

4.

BLIND STITCH HEM Use standard zigzag foot (Fig. 30).

Set stitch length dial at number 1.5.

Set buttonhole lever at “M” (23, Fig. Lock the stop adjustment screws 28-B). at both extreme ends. (20, Fig. 1) Set blind-hem lever at ‘B-H’ (Fig. 31).

19

HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES

WI

NARROW HEMMER. With the needle at its highest position, replace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer Fig. 33 For a plain narrow hem, make a 1 8 inch double fold for about two inches along edge of labric. Hold eac 4’ h end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer.

Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw forward to end and fasten with point of needle Lower presser bar lifter. Gently pull ends of thread as you start stitc hing.

Guide material slightly to right, and it will take a double turn through scroll.

LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, inse rt lace in the slot next to needle (Fig. 34). Sew hem as above, guiding lace Fig. 34 under needle and hem into scroll.

LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right side of fabric.

Insert both in scroll as for plai n narrow hem (Fig. 35). Let hem roll over a little fullness in lace by feeding it freely under scroll.

FRENCH SEAM. With right side s together, place top piece of material 1 8 inch insi de edge of lower piece.

Fig. 35 Insert in hemmer scroll, allowin g hem to roll over and sew in top fabric, making French sea FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open m. out French seam and insert roll Edgestitch to lay seam flat. ed edge in scroll of hemmer.

HAND ROLLED EFFECT. Use a narrow zigzag stitch, just wide enough to catch both edges of the narrow, rolled hem . to seam width desired.

SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE seam gauge as a guide for traight sean rows of top stitching along edges of lab gauge with accompanying screw in threa needle plate or in bed of machine (Fig.

By letting the guide ride on the fi line, successive rows will be an equal di When the bar is attached so that the is to the right of the needle, it may als seam width guide.

Adlust the curved bar to press hg fabric.

QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for rallel rows of stitching is attached by pronged holder between the presser f presser foot clamp screw Fig. 36

t wide enough to catch both

p fabric, making French seam. )lled edge in scroll of hem mer.

Fig. 35

hi’

--

Fig. 3.

Fiq 33 By letting the guide ride on the first stitc hing line, successive rows will be an equal dista nce apart.

When the bar is attached so that the curv ed part is to the right of the needle, it may also serve as a seam width guide.

SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seam s and even rows of top stitching along edges of fabri c. Fasten gauge with accompanying screw in threaded hole in needle plate or in bed of machine (Fig . 37). Adjust to seam width desired.

Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric.

QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for making pa rallel rows of stitching is attached by placi ng the pronged holder between the presser foot and the presser foot clamp screw (Fig. 36

Fig. 37

Fig. 36

21

22

—Fig. 39 HOW TO REPLACE LIGHT BULB The lamp is built-in under the face plate.

Open the face plate.

Unscrew bulb and replace vith bhlb of same size, which is avail able from your sewing machine deale r.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it operating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sewing you do.

Bef ore oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 38 turn hand wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its lowest point.

Avoid over-oiling, only a drop is needed at each point.

To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tip the unit back on its hinqes and apply a drop of oil at each point indicated in Fig. 39 The face plate opens sideways on hinges mak ing oiling and cleaning easy. Oil at spots indi cated in Fig. 40

Fig. 40

Fig. 38

..

Fig. 41 To do this, follow these instructi 1. Remove clutch nut(A)in c (Fig. 41). Turn nut counter2. Before moving the hand w under the clutch nut. It n 3, Pull hand wheel away fror make the grooved section 4. Slide old belt over hand v 5. Slide new belt into groovE 6. Push hand wheel back ag 7. If washer(Cthas fallen off, 8. Replace nut and tighten 5(

ADJUSTING AND CHANGII’ If it should ever become neces must first be loosened and mov

back ited in

plate. avail-

S

opens mak eaning 5 mdi-

Lt

Fig. 40

Fig. 3,

Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43 To do this, follow these instructions: 1. Remove clutch nut (A) in center of wheel by taking out the small screw(B)near the edge.

(Fig. 41). Turn nut counter-clockwise until it can be lifted off.

2. Before moving the hand wheel, note the position of the washer, (C, Fig. 42) which fits under the clutch nut. It may fall out when you are changing the belt.

3. Pull hand wheel away from the machine carefully(Fig. 43). Pull it just far enough to make the grooved section which holds the belt accessible.

4. Slide old belt over hand wheel and over pulley on the end of motor.

5. Slide new belt into grooved section and over motor pulley.

6. Push hand wheel back against the machine.

7. If washer (C) has fallen off, replace so that the lips( D)are pointing toward the clutch nut.

8. Replace nut and tighten screw securely.

ADJUSTING AND CHANGING “V� BELT If it should ever become necessary to replace the belt on your machine the hand wheel must first be loosened and moved out.

23

24

Fig. 44

,

Fig. 45

The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint.

Cleaning and removal of This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. proceed as assembly, shuttle the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the follows: 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.

2. Remove bobbin case (A Fig.44.

3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover (C and shuttle body (D).

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (See Figs. 44 and 45

After do:iq this turn the clutch toward you to disengage the sewing mechanism. If the needle still moves up and down as you turn the hand wheel, again remove the clutch nut.

Give the washer a half turn and replace the nut.

a

2

T

‘4

F

4

3. Replace shuttle race coy position with shuttle rac

2. Place shuttle body,

When the cleaning has been 1. Turn the balance wheel u

5. Apply a drop of oil with

4. Clean the shuttle race, the

Tilt head back

Fig. 45

5

0

e

and remove the shittle race cover

highest position.

ogged with loose (threads and lint. achine.

Cleaning and removal of shuttle assembly, proceed as

SHUTTLF

iage the sewing mechanism. If the e1, again remove the clutch nut.

Fig.

46

)

,A

3.

4.

5.

6.

7, 8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

1 3.

14.

Stitching Buttonhole Foot Thumb Screw Felt Washers (2 (for spool pins Bobbins (3) Needle Plate for Straight Sewing (graduated)

Narrow Hemmer

Large Screw Driver Small Screw Driver Quilter Guide Cloth Guide Button Sewing Foot Presser Foot for Straight

2. Package of Needles (5)

1. Plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled)

ACCESSORIES

4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle and t’huttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.

5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle.

When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly: 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.

2. Place shuttle body, D, against shuttle driver and adjust into position.

3. Replace shuttle race cover, C , fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B, making certain the clamps have been snapped securely into position.

4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.

5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.

25

26

If Machine Binds

Trouble

Thread or lint in race way

Probable Cause

7

5 6

2 3 4

1

CHART Correction

RACE COVEE{

FlOCK CLAMPS

PACE

Turn clamps outward and remove race cover.

Remove hook.

Clean thread and lint from all parts, including race.

Run a drop of oil along rim of hook.

Replace hook, then race cover, Snap clamps into place.

Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and re place, fitting tongue into notch of race cover.

LATCH

/

?

BOBBIN BOBBIN NOTCI{ CASE

With take-up lever in highest position, tilt head back on hinges and remove bobbin case.

TROUBLE

Machine not operating

Uneven stitches

Irregular stitches

Skipping stitches

Trouble

Needle too being used Bobbin win wheel

Poor quality

iNot

enough upper thread

Pulling or material

Bobbin not

Improper thr

Upper thread loose

Too fine a nee being used

Needle place’ in clamp

Bent needle

Probable

I

/

nto

in

case by latch and re notch of race cover.

rig rim of hook. race cover. Snap clamps

Machine not operating

Needle too fine for thread oeing usea Bobbin winder near hand wheel

Poor quality thread

INot

Increase tension.

Uneven stitches

enough tension on upper thread

parts, including

Move bobbin winder to off position away from hand wheel.

See needle and thread chart page 5.

Try different thread.

.

from all

.

Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide

8 and 9.

Pulling or holding material

.

See threading instruction, pages

Tighten upper tension.

and remove race cover.

Improper threading

Upper thread tension too loose

See needle and thread chart page 5.

Too fine a needle for thread neing used I

See instruction page 6.

Needle placed incorrectly in clamp

Discard and replace.

Correction

Rewind bobbin.

CLAMPS

Irregular stitches

Skipping stitches

Bent needle

Probable Cause

Bobbin not wound evenly

HOCK

RACE

o highest position, tilt head remove bobbin case.

rection

Trouble

it.

27

28

Material puckering

Upper thread breaking

Trouble

Try a new needle.

Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace with new.

See tensions adjustment page 11.

Eye of needle too sharp

Bent or blunt needle

Tensions too tight

Reduce stitch length.

Refer to needle setting instructions see page 6.

Improper setting of needle

Stitch length too long

Always start sewing with take up lever in highest position.

Starting with take up in incorrect position

Change needle.

Loosen tension on upper thread by turning thread tension knob to lower number.

Too much tension

Dull needle

Refer to threading instructions see page 8 and rethread machine.

Correction

Improperly threaded

Probable Cause