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IMPROVEMENT 2019 The Herald â– YO U R C O M M U N I T Y N E W S PA P E R S I N C E 1 8 9 5 DUBOISCOUNTYHERALD.COM
DUBOIS COUNTY, INDIANA FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019 SECTION B
PAGE 2 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
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On the threshold of bulb-planting season, consider species-type tulips such as Lilac Wonder. Wild types are low-growing, early-flowering and reliably perennial in sunny, well-drained locations.
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Winter aconite, sometimes called eranthis or wolf’s bane, can be difficult to establish but in ideal conditions will spread slowly by seed. It appears in late winter to herald the growing season ahead.
As summer ends, plan (and plant) for late winter By ADRIAN HIGGINS WP News Service When I’m standing outdoors in the depths of winter, I try to imagine what it’s like now, at the end of a hot and steamy summer. This isn’t to get the blood flowing in January — it’s a way of enduring the cold and reminding myself how much more bearable it is than the heat. What do I do now? I’m projecting forward to February, when the first signs are there of winter loosening its grip. One of the most conspicuous heralds is a bonny buttercup named the winter aconite. Its yellow flower is borne just above a radiating necklace of green leaves. By the time it is finished a month later, this ruffed chalice is elevated a few inches above the soil. It may dwell amid a layer of snow, which heightens the paradox of something so delicate being so tough. I’m thinking of the winter aconite not merely as a device to cool the summer-sizzled mind, but because we are on the threshold of bulb-ordering season. Some of the specialty bulbs need to be in hand soon and in the garden soon after, because they tend to be less robust out of the ground than daffodil bulbs. The winter aconite is one of the fussiest bulbs in dormancy, perhaps because it’s not a bulb but a tuber and therefore less able to endure prolonged dormant storage. The advice is to order them now for speedy shipment and then soak them overnight before planting. Christian Curless, horticulturist with online bulb merchant Colorblends, says he hasn’t had problems with fall-planted tubers failing to grow. Still, bulb guru Brent Heath says, “it’s best to soak them overnight before planting.” Carol Long, curator of garden at Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library near Wilmington, Delaware., says she prefers to expand the display by transplanting winter aconites in growth or by sowing seed. (Sounds like a greenhouse job.) They bloom three years after germination. These approaches require you to have a colony already, or at least friends with winter aconites to share. Long oversees March Bank, the deciduous woodland at Winterthur famous for its succession of established colonies of winter aconite, snowdrops, Italian windflowers and other beauties that bridge the shift from winter to spring. Beyond its vernal beauty, such a
carpet is a product of decades of unmolested increase, aided by the insects that spread the seeds. If you are up for a challenge, order winter aconite bulbs, soak them and plant them with dispatch. If only half of them come up this winter, you’re on your way to establishing a colony. If you want more certainty, choose other bulbs. There is one other way winter aconites, or eranthis, differ from other bulbs. They like shade and need enriched, moisture-retentive soil even as they shrink back into the ground in spring. Virtually everything else, from daffodils to crocuses, does best in freedraining soil, requiring dryness in summer dormancy. A dry, sunny slope is ideal for most bulbs. Irrigation systems and perennial bulbs don’t get along. The obvious companion to winter aconites is the snowdrop. As with winter aconites, snowdrops have a reputation for being difficult, and the conventional wisdom is that they should only be moved “in the green” - that is, in leaf after flowering. I might do this if I paid $70 for a choice variety, but for common or garden types, this is overkill. As long as you get the little bulbs in the ground with haste, they will appear this winter. The giant snowdrop appears for me in late January, and the common snowdrop comes about three or four weeks later. Named varieties can draw you into the realm of high-priced beauties, but the lowly species and their old varieties do the trick of lifting the spirit and are perfect for bringing life to the winter display. But enough about winter, because the best season is just ahead of us. I would urge people to become acquainted with the autumn flowering crocus, which is similar in form and color to the early spring version but appears in late October, when the perennial garden is soft and full of the texture and unexpected beauty of decline. The crocuses are a reminder that nothing about a cherished garden is moribund; it’s just that everything has its cycle. The most famous of these is Crocus sativus, whose elongated stigmas of burnished orange give us saffron, but others abound. Heath, of Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, offers a dozen types of autumn crocus, but he particularly likes Crocus laevigatus Fontenayi, which has purple striped petals that open to reveal a pale center. These crocuses begin to grow and
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The giant snowdrop of late winter appears first, followed by the common snowdrop. Both are the light at the end of winter’s tunnel. Bulbs should be ordered and planted soon. bloom once soil temperatures descend into the 50s. The latest bloomer is Crocus medius, which in Heath’s Gloucester, Virginia, garden appears in November and December, shrugs off light frosts, and brings an extended display. The bright orange stigmas are surrounded by petals of deep violet. As with all perennial bulbs, their first flowering season is not representative of when they will flower in future years. Once they have settled in, they usually show up earlier. As gardens become more naturalistic and gardeners are (I hope) not cutting back fading herbaceous material, it does little good to have fall crocuses smothered with other plants. One place to put them where they will be noticed, Long says, is between shrubs. She also has them in grassy areas, but Heath cautions against placing them in a lawn that gets fertilized and watered to any measure. These crocuses are perfect in slopes with low-growing ground covers such as mondo grass. Mice and squirrels love newly planted crocus bulbs, so plant deeply, and when they flower, you’ll have to worry about deer browsing. If you have deer, go with colchicums, which are similar but not related to crocus, even though they are sometimes misnamed fall crocus. They’re larger, and the leaves, when they appear in the spring, are far more conspicuous than those of crocus. Colchicums
are more expensive than autumn crocus but cheaper than a deer
fence. If you have not yet tried species and species-type tulips, now is your chance. They are reliably perennial in sunny, open sites and are shorter, daintier, earlier and generally more interesting than their big brothers and sisters. They open fully on sunny days in March to reveal inner petal markings, often with contrasting eyes. It’s a whole different tulip experience. Little Beauty is one of my favorites, a magenta red opening to reveal a blue eye. Colorblends, which specializes in designed mixtures, sells mixes of species-type tulips in a blend named Aladdin’s Carpet (this includes a variety of daffodil and three of grape hyacinth), Wildfyre, a duet in red and orange, and Votive Motif, a collection of delicate, candy striped clusiana varieties. Shipping begins in late September, Curless said. (The minimum order is $60.) Ordering and thinking about where to plant these treasures is the best way I know of getting past the grip of summer and thinking about the superior seasons.
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 3
Home heating solutions can be found on budget By TAWNY MAYA MCCRAY Creators.com Seeing your electric bills spike in the colder months can be enough to make you want to forgo using your heater and just wear a coat indoors. But unless you live in a more moderate climate like California, where average winter temperatures hover around the 40s and 50s, that’s not really an option. Luckily, there are many heating systems to choose from these days to help get you more bang for your buck. According to the Green Energy Efficient Homes website, the most efficient way to heat your home is to make sure your house is as well insulated and air-sealed as possible (to prevent the heat from escaping) and to use as efficient, cheap and low-carbon an energy source as possible. Solar heating is the most efficient and affordable home heating system on the market today. Not only is solar heating cheapest in terms of installation and operation, but it also has no operating costs. The energy is free, except when there’s a lack of sunlight or when very cold temperatures require you to supplement some other source of heat. Sam Syed, owner of Green Energy EPC, a solar energy company, says you can heat a house with solar using a solar air heating system or a solar radiant floor heating system, the latter being the more efficient of the two. In a radiant floor heating system, hot air from solar air heating collectors is pumped into the pipe system in the floor to heat the house. Solar electric systems, also called photovoltaic systems, involve solar panels and produce electricity during the day. They are generally installed on one’s roof. “A sufficiently sized solar photovoltaic system can completely eliminate the electric bill,” says Syed. “Keep in mind that even if you put a large solar electric system on the house that will produce all the electricity you need,
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there will be a minimum electric bill you will receive every month. Think of it as a basic connection charge to the utility grid.” Syed points out that the federal government is currently giving financial tax credits to people who install certain types of solar electric systems. With these benefits, a solar electric system will pay for itself within four to five years. “After that, people will have a free system and free energy for many, many years.” When it comes to conventional heating options, the cheapest is natural gas, followed by oil and then electric. Marla Mock, vice president of operations at the heating and air conditioning company Aire Serv, says natural gas is fast-acting — a gas furnace produces maximum heat as soon as the burners start running — and is less expensive to operate than electricity. “If you live in a cold climate and run your heater a lot during the winter, a gas furnace can save you money over the long run,” says Mock. However, Mock notes that gas furnaces’ installation is more complicated (due to their venting requirements), so they require a larger upfront investment than electric furnaces. Gas furnaces also have shorter lifespans. “You can expect a gas furnace to last 10 to 20 years, which is about half as long as an electric unit,” Mock said. A pro of electric furnaces, Mock says, is that they can be installed quickly and just about anywhere, as they don’t need to vent to the exterior. But their cons include slower heating -- an electric furnace must spend time powering up the heating element before it can start to warm your home, so you have to wait longer for the effects of turning up the thermostat to kick in -- and an electric furnace has a higher lifetime cost than a gas furnace operating under the same conditions. “The biggest flaw with electric furnaces is that, while some boast
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Leave less of a carbon footprint by heating your home with energy harnessed from the sun. near 100% efficiency, the higher cost of electricity makes electric heat more expensive than gas heat,” she says. Other heating options include eco-efficient geothermal heating systems, which use the same kind of compressor that extracts heat from a refrigerator. Geothermal systems can be a great way to save on heating costs, but their installation costs can be high. Electric space heaters — which are affordable, starting at around $20 — work well to heat a single room quickly and are generally quite energy-efficient. And then there’s the good old-fashioned wood-burning fireplace, which can be very low-cost, especially if
you have access to free or cheap firewood. Mock suggests you insulate your home by laying rugs or carpets to prevent heat loss through the floor, installing doorjambs to seal the space under your doors or hanging thermal curtains. Syed recommends using good insulation — R30 — in the ceilings and attics and R19 or R11 insulation in the walls. He also recommends installing energy-efficient windows, replacing single-pane windows with double-pane ones, replacing drafty doors and windows and installing dark-color roof material to absorb the sun’s heat into the house. Another cost-effective tip
from Mock: Heat your home by using humidifiers with controls to reset the humidity level based on outside air temperature. This combination will keep frost from forming; the requested humidity level will be lowered as outside temperatures fall and be restored to normal during less severe weather. Mock recommends a normal humidity level of 35-45%, but as temperatures dip into the single digits, it should be set closer to 20%. Another tip: Set your inside temperature to 68 F, “a comfortable temperature if you dress for the season,” saving you “about 8% compared to keeping the thermostat at 72 degrees,” Mock says.
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PAGE 4 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
Cleaning house: What to do with unwanted goods By ALEXIS SOOHOO Creators.com Over the last few years, the world has joyfully embraced Marie Kondo’s tidying methods. With her Netflix show and book, people are sorting through massive stacks of 10-year-old knickknacks, clothes from fads four cycles ago and furniture gathering dust in the corner to see what “sparks joy.” Many Goodwill stores have seen a year-over-year rise in donations that they associate directly to the show, says Lauren Lawson-Zilai, senior director of public relations at Goodwill Industries International. Unfortunately, the increase in donated goods has also meant an increase in donated trash. So, be sure to sort your goods between things to donate, things to sell and things to throw away. Goodwill accepts gently used items ranging from clothes to electronics; they then refurbish and resell the items at a greatly reduced price and donate the earnings. Do some additional research into how your local Goodwill works. There are many ways to avoid crowds and some centers even offer pickup services. And there are plenty of options that you may not realize beyond your local Goodwill: ■■ Dress for Success is a nonprofit organization that provides professional attire and development tools to those in need within your community. ■■ Habitat for Humanity ReStore will drive out to pick up household goods for donation. This organization is great for donating large items such as couches, beds and washing machines. There is the added bonus of knowing your donation is helping people across the globe obtain affordable housing. ■■ Baby2Baby is a philanthropic nonprofit that donates old backpacks, diapers, cribs, toys and other kid items to local shelters and hospitals. In addition to these organizations, many local libraries and food banks are always looking for donated goods. For those more interested in selling their old belongings, here are some ways that you can maximize some online resources in the rapidly digitizing world: ■■ Nextdoor.com is a private social network for residents in a specific neighborhood and surrounding communities. The platform is used for things ranging from stray dog complaints to party invites, and it is also a great way to advertise anything you
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Be considerate when donating your clothes, furniture and goods. If it’s too old, dirty or broken for you, then it might be best to throw away. If you decide to have a garage sale to thin out the clutter, a garage sale or items for sale ad can be placed in The Herald. And, if the items for sale total less than $50, the three-day ad is free. want to give away or sell. Because you are selling to neighbors, you know transportation costs will be low, everything can be handled without a third party and your old belongings will go to a good home. ■■ RBay Giving Works allows you to sell your items online while also donating to charity. After the auction, the customer can donate a percentage of the final sale to a charity of choice. For those who are less technologically savvy, traditional methods of selling your stuff continue to work. According to The New York Times, a well-designed garage sale can net $500 to $1,000. It is most effective to start the sales on a Friday to attract serious buyers and antique dealers. Journalism professor Patty Lamberti offered a few other tips: avoid pricing goods, pay attention to your signs and make the shopping environment pleasant and comfortable. If you’re looking for more specialty resources, consignment stores are a perfect place to drop off nicer items with no hassle, and they will take care of listing and selling. The only downside
is that these businesses will take a large portion of the profit. If you’re looking to replace your electronics, pause for a second and look through your old belongings gathering dust before you
run off to the Apple store. Many chain stores such as Target, Best Buy and GameStop offer trade-in programs where your old gadgets can gain a second life and you can go home with a new product at a
discount. Cleaning house can be simultaneously exciting and frustrating, but the only way to approach it is one step at a time. The end result is certainly worth it.
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FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 5
Home repair products to fix just about anything By MARY HUNT Creators.com Maintenance and home repair are a never-ending reality for just about everyone — homeowners and renters alike. But it doesn’t have to be painful or expensive. The secret to making it easy is to fix stuff as it happens — right away, not next month or some more convenient time in the future. The best way to ensure you’ll actually perform quick home repairs is to have top-notch repair products on hand — in a handy place you will remember. Check out my collection of favorite home repair products, some of which you may have already: ■■ Scratch-fix pens. There are lots of choices, but you won’t find a better product than Miller Scratch Fix pens for hiding scratches on furniture, floors, cabinets, doors moldings — and even antiques. It makes scratches, stains and imperfections invisible. It dries in seconds, making multiple coats — if necessary — super simple. It contains waterproof wood stain instead of ink, which means that once dry, even wax and polish won’t smudge it. Follow the directions exactly for the best result. ■■ Weldbond Adhesive Glue. This is amazing for most applications. This adhesive cleans up with water, is nontoxic and nearly odorless, and dries clear while remaining flexible. This is the glue you want if you want your repair to remain visible. It works on porous and nonporous surfaces. It’s best if you scuff the materials to be glued with something like a nail file. This stuff is great on most plastics, wood, metal, tile, porcelain, fabric — items all of us have around our homes that need to be repaired from time to time. It cures fully in only 24 hours. ■■ Original Gorilla Glue. This product comes in a number of variations, many of which I can live without. It’s the Original Gorilla Glue that has saved my bacon more than a few times and occupies a permanent location in
With a few items, you can complete most home repairs with ease. CREATORS.COM
my repair products drawer. It will stick anything together and hold it there for dear life, and quite possibly through eternity! However, the repair may remain very visible, so plan your strategy carefully. ■■ CLR. It stands for Calcium, Lime & Rust — the unsightly household annoyances that this incredible product attacks. Whether you have rust stains in your tub or crusty calcium deposits on your humidifier coils, CLR will come to the rescue. This is an amazing product, one you’ll be happy to have on hand when the need arises, which, if you look under the rim of your toilet bowl, may be right now! ■■ WD-40. Chances are good you grew up with a familiar blueand-yellow can of WD-40 in your parents’ garage. It’s time to make sure there’s one somewhere in your home or garage. Invented more than 60 years ago, WD-40 is
the secret sauce of lubricants and other agents that displace water, repel dirt and prevent corrosion. You can use it around the house to silence squeaky door hinges, remove rust from garden tools, clean a whiteboard and perform a zillion other household miracles. ■■ Bondo All-Purpose Putty. This is a homeowner’s best friend. It can fill and repair cracks and dents in drywall, metal, concrete,
masonry and wood surfaces. Here’s the best thing: 3M Bondo All-Purpose Putty can be sanded and painted within 15 minutes of application, making it a quick fix for a wide range of household repairs. Wow, just wow! ■■ VLP Leather And Vinyl Repair. This is a clear, highstrength leather and vinyl repair product designed to mend small rips, tears and holes in most types
of vinyl and leather materials. A repair you make with VLP will become stronger than the vinyl or leather material was before the tear. It is amazing and quite inexpensive. This stuff is super strong and extra sticky, so please do not adhere it to a painted surface or use it in another situation where you plan to remove the tape later. This will pull paint or any other fine finish right off.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
Expert explains how to strip wallpaper like pro By JAMES DULLEY Creators.com Dear James: I remodeled the kitchen and have damaged the wallpaper in spots, so I thought I would just go with painted walls. What is the best way to strip the wallpaper without damaging the drywall? — Michelle C. Dear Michelle: It can be difficult to repair the damaged wallpaper without it being obvious. Even if you have saved some of the original wallpaper, the old wallpaper is likely faded and the new will not match. Also, being in the kitchen, cooking grease and oils have probably discolored it. Removing old wallpaper from
drywall can be difficult. If you get it too wet for too long, the paper skin on the drywall will become saturated and may pull off with the wallpaper. You can repair the spots with spackling compound, but unless you sand them very carefully, some of the spots will be noticeable. Start working in one obscure location, perhaps behind the refrigerator and try to strip some of the wallpaper. Don’t worry if you get it too wet at this point. Once you remove a small area, you will be able to determine if the wall was painted first. If it was painted, the drywall will be able to handle more wetness. You will also be able to determine what type of wallpaper ma-
terial it is. Standard wallpaper will saturate quickly with water or a stripper solution. Vinyl-type wallpaper will be resistance to penetration by the water and the water will just bead up on it. If you find you do have vinyltype wallpaper, you will have to remove it in three steps. First you will have to lightly score the surface with a utility knife or scraper to break the surface. This will allow the water or stripping solution to penetrate to loosen the adhesive. Another option is to buy a wallpaper piercing tool at a paint store. It has a small wheel with points to puncture the surface just deep enough without damaging the drywall beneath it.
Next, wet the wallpaper surface. Make it just wet enough to allow you to pull the top vinyl surface of the wallpaper from the wall. It will still leave the backing and adhesive on the wall. At this stage, you will remove the wallpaper similarly to any other wallpaper. Warm water will dissolve most of the wallpaper adhesives commonly used. Stripper additives, such as Zinsser’s DIF, include special enzymes which dissolve the adhesive quicker. If you find you seem to be damaging the drywall covering in too many spots, use an additive to dissolve it quicker. I like to spray it on with an old window cleaner spray bottle and then spread it evenly with a large
sponge. Some enzyme solutions make some people cough, so if you have this problem, just sponge the solution on the wall so less gets airborne. Wait about 15 minutes and try pulling off the wallpaper. Within 30 minutes, it definitely should be loose. Remember, the sooner you get it off and allow the wall to dry, the less chance you may damage the drywall. Use a wide scraper to remove as much adhesive as possible and then scrub it gently until all the adhesive is removed. Paint the entire wall with primer so the repaired spots have the same surface texture as the rest of the wall. Apply two coats of the finish paint.
Financial, other benefits of programmable thermostat By CHELLE CORDERO Creators.com The comforts of home are worth every penny. But when you can save those pennies, it’s a real bonus. You can ensure those savings — and feel comfortable no matter the weather — by using a programmable thermostat. You can program it to respond to your family’s personal schedule, to keep the house running economically while no one’s home and to have your home temperature just as you like it when you walk through the door at the end of a long day. Some programmable thermostats feature seven-day schedules so you can set a different pattern for each day of the week. Others have a five-two schedule: one setting for during the workweek and one for the weekend. There’s also the option of five-one-one, for more versatility on the weekends. The most basic “clock thermostat” usually
permits two programmed settings per day. Digital thermostats allow for more settings instead of just one hot and one cold. And all programmable thermostats offer temporary overrides. Smart thermostats offer even greater control, such as through smartphone apps, which can receive energy usage reports; learned responses to your home schedule, which help make efficient temperature changes as needed; voice controls; Wi-Fi adaptability; humidity sensors; and easy one-touch screen controls. Imagine you have a last-minute change to your schedule. You can notify your thermostat using an app on your smartphone. Or, if the night is just a tad too chilly and you really don’t want to come out from under the blankets, all you have to do is tell your thermostat to make an adjustment. And smart thermostats will often offer more complex scheduling adaptations for your family’s unique needs.
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According to the Department of Energy (as cited by Jennifer Noonan on Bob Vila’s home improvement website), “You can save as much as 1 percent on your winter heating bill for every degree you turn your thermostat down for an eight-hour period, and a programmable thermostat can automate those savings for you.” The biggest savings are normally found in moderate climates. It’s best to keep your home at the energy-saving temperature for a minimum of eight hours at a time, such as overnight or when no one is home. If you have multi-zone heating/cooling, you will need to program multiple thermostats for specific areas in your home. Try to keep your programmed energy-saving temperatures compatible with the outside weather; this will help you avoid heat/cooling loss and heat or cool your home with less energy when the program demands the “at-
home” temperature setting. Heat/ cooling loss through transference increases as the difference between inside and outside temperatures increases. When you are shopping for a programmable thermostat, check for these important features and consider how they may serve your needs: ■■ Make sure the thermostat you choose is compatible with the heating/cooling system you have in place. Most programmable thermostats are inefficient with heat pumps in their heating mode. Electric baseboard heating systems require line-voltage programmable thermostats, which are manufactured only by a few companies. ■■ Have a fairly accurate account of your family’s home schedule so that you have a realistic idea of how many programmed settings you will need or if a smartphone app would be the most helpful. Select the ther-
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mostat schedule and means of programming that work best for your household. ■■ Consider who will most often be doing the programming or using the setback features. Digital thermostats offer many options for programming, overrides, and daylight saving time adjustments, but they are usually complicated to program. By contrast, electromechanical thermostats are usually controlled by sliding bars and are very easy to program. ■■ Plan where your thermostat(s) will be located. Make sure that your thermostat won’t be blocked by furniture or in the path of a draft; this will make the thermostat less responsive to the house’s overall temperature and may easily over- or underheat the rooms you use most often. It should be positioned in the natural home air currents, not in direct sunlight or over a heat or cooling vent. Also check whether your thermostat runs on AC or DC power.
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FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 7
Keep your plumbing safe from freezing, bursting By CHELLE CORDERO Creators.com Two winters ago, Tim and Alice finished saving up and took their dream vacation. They left the cold weather behind and spent two weeks sunning in the Caribbean. They came home refreshed and were thrilled to see their driveway had been plowed by the contractor they’d hired. They didn’t have a care in the world — until they opened their front door The entire downstairs in their beautiful two-story home was ankle-deep in water — thanks to a burst pipe. After four months, the repairs were complete, but they can’t replace many of the waterdamaged mementoes they lost. It was a harsh lesson to learn. Tim and Alice spoke with plumbers and with their insurance company to find out how to keep their pipes from freezing and bursting again. Here are some of the tips they were given: ■■ When you are leaving your home for any extended period of time during the winter, it is OK to turn your thermostat down, but be careful about choosing a cold temperature setting. Even though water freezes at 32 Fahrenheit, that’s way too low for your home thermostat. Your home is bound to have drafty corners, where the temperature may actually dip lower than in the rest of the house. Even in under-sink cabinets, pipes are often behind closed cabinet doors, where heat may not penetrate. If the cabinet is on an exterior wall, you have a prime setup for frozen pipes. Keep all interior doors open so that the air will circulate throughout your home. If water inside the pipe freezes, pressure will build up and may cause the pipe to burst. It is generally considered safe to lower your thermostat to the mid-50s to compensate for some of the colder spots. Be sure to patch, plug or cover potential leaks, such as under your front door and around window frames. Cover attic fan gables, but remember to uncover them immediately upon
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Insulating your pipes helps keep pipes from bursting when the cold weather strikes. your return. Adjust the temperature setting on automatic wholehouse fans so they won’t accidentally cycle on. Remember to close all of your windows (and lock them for security). Leave your under-sink cabinet doors open so that heat can circulate around those pipes as well. Don’t forget to insulate outdoor and basement water sources. Wrap pipe insulation materials (found at your local hardware or home goods store) around any exposed pipes. If you can see it, wrap it. If you are going to leave your house empty for an extended period of time, such as the entire winter, you might be tempted to turn off your heat altogether (it is still recommended to leave your thermostat set at low). If we cannot talk you out of it, at least take some modest precautions: ■■ Make sure all of your pipes are insulated. Leave your faucets open just enough to drip slowly; the dripping water will help keep pressure from building up in the line. Be sure that all of your dripping faucet sink drains are clear and uncluttered to avoid water
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slowly rewarm the pipes using a blow dryer or towels soaked in warm water. Another option is to wrap an electric heating pad around the pipe (but do not leave this unsupervised). Make sure your faucets are open and then heat the exposed pipes slowly. Keeping the faucets open as the ice thaws will allow water to flow rather than building up pressure. Refrain from using an open flame to thaw the pipes; aside from the obvious fire risk, an open flame may thaw the ice too rapidly, causing pressure to build up. Call a licensed plumber if trying to thaw the pipes yourself isn’t doing the job. ■■ If the pipes have already burst, call your plumber immediately, turn off the whole house’s water supply to prevent more water buildup and turn off your electricity to prevent any short circuits caused by water touching live wires.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
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PAGE 10 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
Annual maintenance checklist for healthy home By NICOLA BRIDGES Creators.com As with your health, prevention is better than a cure when it comes to the fall and winter health of your home and avoiding costly catastrophes. Nobody wants the expense, inconvenience or aggravation of a heating system that decides to stop working right when you need it most, on the coldest day of the year. Or, having to deal with a flooded basement because your gutters are clogged — especially since these issues are preventable with some advanced preparation. The checklist can feel like a chore after you’ve just enjoyed your summertime, but preparing your home now for fall and winter weather is time and money well spent. It will save you hassle and potentially large repair bills. Here’s what you need to pay attention to and prep for your home to stay healthy through the fall and winter months ahead. Inside ■■ Check your heating system or HVAC: Check that curtains, furniture and carpet aren’t blocking your home’s heating and A/C vents. Clean filters; vacuum all vents and ducts of dust and fluff. Many prefer to have professionals do this and perform an annual system checkup, also. They will inspect your furnace, change filters, check for leaks and can also check air safety for carbon monoxide. ■■ Set your thermostat: To save money on heating while you’re not home or don’t need the temperature set high, adjust your thermostat to automatically lower during the nighttime and the hours of the day you’re away from home. Just a few degrees’ difference can lower your utility bill. ■■ Prep your water heater: Experts advise that you drain your water heater and remove any gunk and settled debris from the tank. ■■ Clean humidifiers: It’s also a good idea to replace filters so
ROBERT OWEN WAHL/CREATORS.COM
Make sure to check for leaks in both the inside and outside of your home before the onset of the fall and winter seasons. they’re new and fresh for dryheat season. ■■ Reverse ceiling fans: Once you start using your heat, set the ceiling fan blades in a clockwise direction. “Energy Star says the fan will produce an updraft and push down into the room heated air from the ceiling,” according to the Kiplinger website. ■■ Check safety devices: Put new batteries in your carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. Test them to ensure they’re in working order.
Outside ■■ Inspect the roof and siding: Make sure leaves and debris are not gathering in roof gullies or between siding strips; repair any loose, missing or damaged siding, tiles or shingles. ■■ Prevent ice dams: In harsh winter areas, icicles hanging from your roof can indicate issues with attic or roofing insulation. Also, if snow melts quickly off your roof, it can mean your home is losing heat. A contractor who specializes in weatherization can help iden-
Check trees after transplanting By JEFF RUGG Creators.com I recently got the following question from a reader of my syndicated column, “A Greener View”: “We transplanted some 3.5inch caliper trees six years ago. They seem to be generally healthy, but the leaves have never been full or bright or strong. The fruit trees and spruce trees we have seem fine, but the trees with this problem are red oaks, sunset maples, crimson king Norway maples and white birches. I had them professionally fertilized twice during their second and third years, and I gave them all some fertilizer spikes this year. They did seem a little better this year, but they still kind of look droopy.” Here’s my answer: All of the trees you list as being wilted are ones that need a bit more moisture than many other landscape trees. They all are naturally found in lowlands or wetlands that have more water in the soil. Are the trees planted lower or higher than the surrounding areas? How good is the soil surrounding the transplanted root balls? The trees may grow well for a year or two, but if they can’t get their roots out into a much larger area, they will not do well long term. To see how well the trees have
done since they were planted, check the branches. The leaves on deciduous trees only grow on the current year’s new branch. This year’s new growth will not have any side branches, and it will be a different color than last year’s growth. Last year’s growth will also have a slightly different texture and side branches. You should be able to tell the difference between each year’s growth for several years back. Look to see whether the branches have been getting longer and stronger. On a long branch, you can count all the way back to the year the tree was dug up for transplant, and you will see
that the growth that year is much shorter than that of recent years. If the new growth is staying short, then the trees are not recovering from the transplant. The recovery time for the transplant should only be about a year for each inch of trunk diameter. Your trees should have been fully recovered a couple of years ago, and the length of new growth this year should have been at least a foot long. If the trees have been watered and fertilized, the problem is probably in the soil, but I think you should have a licensed arborist come out and look at your trees to give you a diagnosis.
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tify air leaks that can cause ice dams to pool on the roof, which, when they melt, can cause significant damage. ■■ Clean the gutters: If gutters are clogged, water can pour down the outside of your house and flood your basement or, at the very least, cause foundation damage. Many people prefer to have a professional gutter cleaning service remove leaves and debris, but with a ladder and leaf blower attachment, you can achieve the same result. Also check rainwater downspouts for obstructions, making sure they drain away from the house. ■■ Winterize your A/C: If you have window air-conditioning units, remove, vacuum, cover and store them in a dry place. If they’re not removable, secure a weatherproof cover on them to prevent drafts and air leaks. If you have central air, do the same to your outdoor unit. ■■ Winterize your windows: This is an opportunity to remove and clean screens, store them for spring, and install storm windows. Remember to check seals, also. ■■ Have your chimney swept: It’s recommended that a professional chimney sweep service removes any debris from your chimney, checks that your damper closes properly to avoid
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drafts, and cleans all vents to prevent any presence of potentially deadly carbon monoxide. Find a local, certified sweep through the Chimney Safety Institute of America. If you have oil, gas, coal or other wood-burning appliances, inspect those closely to be sure they’re clean and fully functioning. Similarly, if you have an emergency generator, now’s the time to test it. And stock up on some extra gasoline for your snowblower, too, storing away from children and fire sources. ■■ Check irrigation systems, sprinklers and faucets: Drain your irrigation system for the season and check for repairs. If you’re in a snowy climate, mark your sprinkler heads. Turn off outdoor faucets, and remove and store hoses. Hoses and pipes full of frozen water can burst. If you have a pool in a cold climate, close that up for the winter, too. ■■ Store summer furniture: If you clean, wash and store any cushions now, they’ll be fresh for next season and last much longer. Get your leaf blower and snowblowers ready: Check they’re in good working order now, because who wants to stand in a blowing gale or a frigid winter storm and have them stop working?! Pay attention up front before weather hits. You — and your home — will be happy you did.
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FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 11
Purifying your water helps it taste better By DIANE SCHLINDWEIN Creators.com Water. It’s easy to take it for granted. We turn on the faucet, and there it is. However, a growing number of people in all parts of the country have water that tastes bad or is unhealthy for human consumption. Life can’t survive without water, and fortunately, water filtration systems of many kinds are available to ensure your family is safe and healthy. Michele Traylor, who lives in an otherwise safe and pleasant area in the Midwest, says her suburb has definite water issues. “It’s a real problem that our public works department just can’t get seem to get straightened out,” she says. “In some areas of town, the water looks kind of rusty and many times the tap water smells like chlorine. We also have limescale build-up on our sink faucets and showerheads.” Traylor senses something is off with her water and notes it has even begun to affect her family’s quality of life. “Besides all that, it just doesn’t taste right. I know of some pet-owners who won’t even let their cats and dogs drink the water,” Traylor says. “Some people, myself included, have had issues with extremely dry skin and hair. We really love where we live, but like a lot of people in our town, my family has started to take measures to take care of the issue ourselves. We are using wa-
ter filters for drinking water and in the showers.” Water consists of hydrogen and oxygen. However, if water is hard, it might also include calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese and aluminum. Joshua Meyer, marketing and sales representative for Pure n Natural Systems, says, “If the water you are drinking has toxic elements, instead of supporting your health, it may be causing harm from chemicals and pollutants that happen to be in the water.” It’s important to make sure the water you drink is free from contaminants and impurities. In most cases, there’s no need to test or purify your home’s water yourself. Water filters like those Traylor is using “are fast becoming virtually a requirement in homes, given current and future levels of pollution,” Meyer says. Designed to filter out impurities, they also improve the taste of your drinking water, protect appliances from water damage and generally help you live a healthier life. Then there are water filter systems, which vary in price, as well as how and where they work. For example, undersink systems are plumbed into the cold-water line. While they might cost more initially, gallon for gallon, they cost less when compared with other filter options. Faucetmount options are a convenient way to provide fresh-tasting filtered water from the tap. They are easy to maintain, and you don’t need to tap into your sink’s water
CREATORS.COM
Water safety is a growing concern. Purifying your home’s water supply with the water filtration system of your choice helps flush out unhealthy impurities. line. They should be replaced every three months. Either type of system is a healthy choice; it just depends on your preference. Filtered pitchers like Brita and filtered water bottles are convenient, economical and portable with no installation required. As the water passes through the filter, contaminants are trapped, leaving the filtered water in the bottom of the pitcher or bottle. Either prod-
uct allows you to take clean water with you when you travel, exercise and do other activities. Shower filters are designed to reduce scale (magnesium and calcium deposits), chlorine and odor so these impurities don’t come in contact with skin and hair. Like the faucet-mount options, they fit easily on the showerhead and require periodic filter changes. Traylor notes that peace of
mind goes a long way. “I don’t know whether the water where we live is really dangerous — or just a nuisance — but I am happy we are being cautious about it,” she concludes. Learn more about your local water supply to see which devices would benefit your home and lifestyle. Health, safety and well-being are paramount, so take advantage of what’s available, and purify your home.
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PAGE 12 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
PATIOLIVING/CREATORS.COM
Protect patio furniture by keeping them clean and away from sun, rain and moisture.
Protect outdoor furniture from seasonal damage By KRISTEN CASTILLO Creators.com All summer long you’ve enjoyed outdoor living. But now it’s time to close the umbrella, put away the cushions and move the furniture indoors. Before you pack up your patio for the season, make sure it’s ready for storage and in good shape for next year. “One of the biggest mistakes people make with outdoor furniture is thinking they can withstand anything,” says decorator and interior planner Hope Morris, who’s sales manager at PatioLiving, an online patio furniture retailer. “Each season, patio furniture stands up against UV rays and extreme temperatures, not to mention bad weather and often pets.” Read on for expert tips on protecting your patio furniture: ■■ Experts from the home improvement store Lowe’s advise monthly cleaning and maintenance for patio furniture to help it look great and last a long time. They say soap and water work for most patio pieces and suggest a low-setting pressure washer for
deep cleaning. It’s important to keep the cushions tidy and dry to prevent must and mold. While outdoor furniture can be made from a variety of materials including wrought iron, wood, wicker, aluminum, steel, fabric or resin, the Lowe’s experts say resin is the hassle-free option that requires little maintenance. Serious mildew can be removed with one cup of bleach, two cups of detergent and a gallon of water. Use gloves and eye protection while cleaning. Keep it clean throughout the season and especially before putting it in storage. “Dusting the dirt off and cleaning your furniture with a mild dish soap and warm water is something you should get in the habit of doing to keep the grime off your furnishings,” says Morris. ■■ Protect the furniture from the elements to keep it in good shape. “Add a few cushions to your furniture,” suggests Nathan Ripley, director of Maid Just Right, a house cleaning and maid service. “This simple measure will make your chairs and seating furniture more comfortable but will also
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protect them from the sun. This will prevent the paint from drying and cracking, as well as the material being damaged or sun bleached.” For more protection, install a sunscreen to block out the sun and rain. Morris recommends using covers to protect your furniture when it’s not in use. “There are a variety of covers out there that are UVresistant and waterproof that will help protect your lovely seating or table from the elements,” she says. Lowe’s experts recommend consumers invest in a water-resistant cover that has UV protection. The goal is to shield the chairs, table, umbrella and other patio gear
from dust, dirt, pollen, sap and water, in a variety of temperatures. ■■ Add a coating of protective finish, if needed. “Regularly applying weatherproofing products is one of the best ways to protect patio furniture. You’ll want to double check the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure the product works well with your furniture before using,” says Morris. Still she warns: “Don’t apply just any UV protection or waterproofing product to your furniture,” advising consumers to research weatherproofing products to see which ones work for your furniture. Alternatively, you can touch up
paint the furniture at the start of the next season. ■■ Store the furniture in your garage, shed or basement, during the off-season and even, in season, when it’s not in use. By keeping the patio furniture indoors, you’ll extend the set’s color and shine, as well as prevent rust or rot. Note that wood sets are especially important to keep inside. That’s because the wood can warp or rot when it gets damp or wet. Met sets are prone to rust if conditions are too damp. Consider running a dehumidifier to keep extra moisture out of your storage area. With a little prep in the fall, enjoying those beautiful summer days outside will be a breeze.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 13
Tips for ensuring a tiptop snowblower this winter By MARK J. DONOVAN Creators.com Before the snowstorms come and your front yard becomes a winter wonderland, it’s a wise idea to pull out the snowblower and perform a bit of maintenance. Otherwise, you might find yourself in a situation with a foot of snow blanketing your driveway and a snowblower that won’t start. Basic snowblower maintenance involves inspecting and servicing the following tasks: Adjust or replace spark plug Cleaning and adjusting the spark plug or replacing the spark plug altogether is probably the most important task for ensuring an operational engine. A spark plug often becomes fouled over
time and can cause the engine to run rough — or not at all. With two-stroke engines, the problem is exacerbated by the fact that they burn a combination of oil and gas. Clean Air Filter It is also important that the air filter is clean. A dirty air filter can effectively suffocate the engine, causing it to run poorly. Change oil If the engine is a four-stroke, changing the oil is another major item that should be performed on the snowblower. Clean oil will help the engine run more efficiently, protecting it from wear and tear. Look for loose nuts and bolts Snowblowers have a lot of moving parts, and they tend to vibrate fairly dramatically when operat-
ing. Consequently, nuts and bolts can loosen over time. Verify that all the nuts and bolts are tight to ensure you won’t have pieces of the snowblower falling off in the driveway as you clear your driveway or yard. Check shear bolts Also check the placement of the shear bolts. They ensure the horizontal auger blade turns properly and protects the snowblower from damage in the event the auger blade gets jammed. Never replace missing shear bolts with standard bolts, as they could severely damage your snowblower if the auger were to get jammed. Check auger skid shoes Next, inspect the snowblower’s auger skid shoes to make sure they are adjusted evenly and close
to the level of the driveway. This will ensure you don’t leave any snow behind when clearing a path from your home. Inspect muffler Look for rust on or around the muffler. Rust can reduce the effectiveness of the muffler, adding to the already loud snowblower. So it’s a wise idea to use ear protection when using your snowblower, even with a muffler that works well. Inspect pull cord Also make sure the pull cord is in good working order and that it retracts properly after pulling on it. Replace it if it looks frayed. Fill gas tank and confirm shutoff valve position Next, fill the gas tank with
gas — or the appropriate gas/ oil mixture if it is a two-stroke engine — and make sure the gas shut-off valve is in the on position. Also add a fuel stabilizer to the engine so that the gas does not go stale during significant periods of non-use. Test snowblower Finally, adjust the choke, and pull the pull cord. With any luck, your basic repair and maintenance efforts will result in an effective snowblower that will get you through the winter season. Typically, user manuals explain the required maintenance. Only in the event of damage to the frame or auger blades or if the engine refuses to start will a visit to a repair shop be necessary. And don’t delay; winter is coming!
DIY greenhouse protects plants through cold spells By JEFF RUGG Creators.com Q: We live in an apartment and are five stories up. We have a balcony with several potted shrubs in large pots. We don’t have room for them indoors. The weather started getting cold and windy, so we moved the pots against the wall. We built a plastic wall on the outside of the pots to stop the wind and help trap some of the apartment heat. It seemed like a good idea, but we checked on the plants, and they look horrible. There is mold growing on the leaves, and the branches look dried up. What did we do wrong? How do we protect plants in such an exposed location? A: You had the right idea. Putting the pots against the wall will help moderate the temperature
and block the wind a bit. I don’t know which plants you have, but it sounds like they still had their leaves on them when you built your little greenhouse. The greenhouse is the problem. Like any greenhouse, it trapped the heat from sunlight and warmed the plants way too much. The plants then used up all the water in the pots, and that is what killed the branches. The leaves fell off, and decay organisms started composting the leaves. If the plant varieties you have are capable of surviving planted in the ground in your area, then we only need to protect the root systems, as roots are much less tolerant of cold than branches. The top of the plants would be exposed to very cold air and survive with no extra help. The roots would be planted in and protected
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by the soil. Next time, after they are against the wall, wrap the pots in insulating material, and then wrap them in plastic to keep the insulation dry. Lay insulation across the top of the pots, around the trunks and under the branches. This will keep the roots warmer and the tops exposed to the cold. Oh, one more thing: Water the plants before wrapping them, and check to see whether the soil is still damp once a month through the winter. If your plants should not be planted in the ground and only need to be protected from a short
cold spell for a few days, then you need to provide the greenhouse with some ventilation. A window flap of sorts that you can open during the day and close at night will help prevent the overheating that you experienced with the first
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PAGE 14 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
Make your own compost bin for recycling By JAMES DULLEY Creators.com Dear James: I am not very handy with tools, but my daughter wants me to build a compost bin for our yard. I would like to build a simple one, but I want it to be effective. What do you suggest? — Sandy F. Dear Sandy: Every year, schools are teaching children more and more about taking care of the environment and recycling for their future. Composting is actually not recycling, but rather reusing organic materials that would otherwise end up in a landfill. You may not realize it, but nearly 30% of the trash we dispose of is composed of organic materials, such as lawn clippings and food waste. By composting these materials, our landfills will fill up slower, and we can reintroduce these organic materials into the soil. Composting is the most natural of processes. When you combine heat, moisture, natural microorganisms and organic waste, the waste slowly decomposes. The result is rich soil ideal for many uses around your landscape and garden. The key to building an effec-
gle. This will allow you to swing this one open like a door. Slide 1-by-4-inch lumber in the open slots in the pallets to form closed sides. You may cover the top with another pallet, but it really is not necessary. Most compost systems have three bins, and you move the contents of one bin to the next as the compost reaches different stages of decomposition. This allows you to have a starter bin for fresh waste and a final bin for usable compost soil. Another simple system is to use garbage cans with holes drilled in the sides and bottoms. A dozen 1/2-inch holes per can should be adequate. Galvanized metal cans will work best. Peri-
odically, simply lay each can on its side and roll it to mix the contents. If you have wire cutters and pliers, make four-sided wire mesh bins. You can find wire mesh at most home centers. Wear thick work gloves and cut four 3-by-2foot sections. Position your cuts so one side has the wire sticking out. Using the pliers, bend the wires around the edge of each adjacent section to create the bins. Once you have your three compost bins completed, start adding the organic waste materials. These may include grass, leaves, coffee grounds, tea bags, eggshells, fruit and vegetable scraps, stale bread, apple cores, pet hair, fireplace ash and sawdust.
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Having proper access to your compost bins is more important for their maintenance than heat or moisture. tive compost system is containing the wastes such that decomposition can take place. The actual amounts of moisture and heat are not critical. What is important is having access to the compost and stirring it so it decomposes more evenly. A wood pallet compost bin is one of the simplest and least expensive designs to build. You can often find old pallets at home centers or manufacturing facilities.
Sometimes, they will give them to you for free just to get rid of them. Set two pallets up on end to form two sides of a triangular compost bin. They have many open gaps, which you can use to secure them together with wire. You can also drive in some nails or screws to make the bin even more secure. Attach a third pallet across the opening with wire on one edge and screws on the other edge to form the complete trian-
Energy-efficient home cuts bills By TERESA CURTO Creators.com With the advent of products and technology, it’s become easier and less expensive to run a more energy-efficient home. Make just a few simple changes and you can help your wallet and the environment at the same time, saving up to $500 a year on utility bills and cutting carbon pollution. Being choosy about which systems and appliances you have in your home can greatly affect your energy costs. Do you really need a second refrigerator in your garage if it’s only filled with leftover beverages or condiments? Do you have fans that you leave running in rooms no one is in? Do you need an air conditioning unit when you live by the beach and have a cool sea breeze? For each appliance you can eliminate from daily use, you’ll be rewarded on your energy bill. For the appliances you do need in your home, upgrading to those with smarter energy use is smart for your pocketbook. Energy Star, a program run by the Environmental Protection Agency, has helped Americans “save energy without sacrificing features of functionality” and “avoid $30 billion in energy costs” with its line of products. You may not be able to replace all of your older appliances with Energy Star-rated ones, and neither should you, if the ones you have function well. But major appliances like your water heater, washer and dryer use the largest percentage of energy, so when one of them bites the dust, have energy efficiency
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Replacing incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent lamps is one of the top tips experts give for reducing energy consumption. be a top consideration as you shop around. How you use your appliances and electronics also makes a difference in energy waste. Though smaller appliances, such as toasters, printers, and televisions, make up a smaller percentage of energy use, unplugging them still has an impact on your energy bill. Chargers continue to use electricity even when they’re not charging a device, so unplug them when not in use as well. It may take some practice at first, but eventually, it will become second nature. Replacing incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent lamps, or CFLs, is one of the top tips experts give for reducing energy consumption, for they use almost 70% less energy. At about $3 compared with 50 cents, the CFL bulb may seem to cost more
than an incandescent light bulb, but you’ll need about 10 incandescent bulbs to equal the lifetime of just one CFL bulb. The biggest return on investment comes in the results that you’ll see over time on your energy bill. According to Green Home Guide, you can expect to shell out an estimated $80 annually with CFL bulbs and $350 annually with incandescent bulbs, a big difference. Water-conscious home practices protect one of our most precious resources and your budget. Luckily, some efficiency changes are relatively effortless and inexpensive. Replace your showerheads with low-flow ones, which come in a variety of flows to suit your comfort. Some come with a pause button so you can temporarily stop the flow as you lather up or shave. You can also opt for low-flow toilets. Or take it one step further and install a dual-flush toilet, which offers two flushes with different amounts of water to handle liquid waste and solid waste. Both save you from wasting unneeded water with every flush. Home improvement can take many forms, but not many upgrades improve quality and durability while actually benefitting your finances. Whether you’re able to sweep the whole house for more energy efficiency or start with one small change at a time, every choice counts, and going more green is a win-win.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 15
Inexpensive paint can make huge difference By KRISTEN CASTILLO Creators.com Remodeling multiple rooms in your home could cost more than $18,000, but there’s a much more affordable option for a transformation. Painting the interior of a 2,300-square-foot home costs between $966 and $2,727. Both stats come from HomeAdvisor, an online resource for home improvement tips, advice and connections. “A fresh coat of paint is a lowcost, little-effort way to make a big change to the way you welcome people into your home — inside and out,” says Erika Woelfel, Behr Paint Co.’s vice president, color and creative services. A new coat of paint can be a fresh start. “When you change with paint, it feels like a completely new room or house,” says Gentry Stafford, vice president of marketing and store development at Spectrum Paint, the largest independent paint dealer in the country. “That’s a lot more appealing to people than having to deal with an entire move.” Not only does paint look great, but it protects the property’s interior walls from wear and tear and shields the exterior from sun, rain, snow and wind. Factor in the circumstances of each room. For example, if you have kids, pets or high-traffic areas, pay close attention to your paint. Do you prefer a matte finish? Glossy? Semi-gloss? Stafford says sheen is typically a consumer’s biggest consideration. “If you want a paint that hides mistakes and is easy to touch up, you’ll want something with a flat sheen,” she says. “If you want something that’s a little more durable, you’ll want eggshell or semi-gloss sheen, though those will show more imperfections in the finish.” Generally, it’s practical to select an eggshell finish for the walls, semi-gloss for the trim, flat finish for the ceiling and semigloss for the front door. Don’t forget to prep the walls and prime them, too, for best results. Before choosing a color, consider how you want the space to feel. A lighter color will create an airy feel, while a darker shade can make a space feel cozy and intimate. If you want a classic color scheme, choose neutrals like light beiges and grays. Use darker colors such as gray, navy and black for accents on doors, kitchen islands, bathroom vanities or the lower half of kitchen cabinets. “Choosing interior and exterior paint color should always reflect your personal taste and style,” says Woelfel. Still, when it comes to choosing an exterior paint, it’s a long-term investment. Look for a high quality, durable exterior paint. “You should choose a color you’ll love for years,” she says. A fresh coat can also be a selling point. “Paint color is one of the least expensive and most visually effective tools sellers use to engage buyers when selling their home,” says home transition expert Caroline M. Carter, founder and CEO of Done In A Day, Inc. Carter’s color picks include white, soft gray or light taupe for the interior walls, paired with white ceilings and trim. For exteriors, she suggests white paint with black shutters and a black door. Basic colors can be appealing for buyers so they can envision
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Paint is one of the best decorating tools. Seeking ideas, colors and patterns can be treasure hunt. Whatever your choice, the important thing is that the result makes your home be seen in its best light. themselves living in the home. Carmen Smith, home decor blogger and owner of Living Letter Home, loves to show her readers how to “make small changes on a small budget and make a big impact.” Paint is her No. 1 tip. She’s painted all of the interior doors
W e’re not just pressure washing,m ost projects are soft washed w ith detergents for the best results
in her home and loves the finished look. “We also couldn’t afford a full kitchen gut job, so we just painted our kitchen cabinets to hold us over,” says Smith. She also used coral-colored paint on a lamp in her daughter’s nursery; when the girl grew,
Smith repainted the lamp navy. “Paint is the best, budget-
friendly way to transform the feel of an entire room,” she says.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2019