Fall Home Improvement
Dryer fires are more common than you may think. Page 2. Put flower bulbs to bed for the winter. Page 5. Warm your house without raising the heating bill. Page 6. Protect roses from winter’s freezes, winds. Page 7.
The Herald ■ YO U R C O M M U N I T Y N E W S PA P E R S I N C E 1 8 9 5 DUBOISCOUNTYHERALD.COM
DUBOIS COUNTY, INDIANA
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014 SECTION B
PAGE 2 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
PHOTOS COURTESY OF A-PLUS APPLIANCE SOLUTIONS
Lint built up in duct work, left, or around the motor and heating element of a dryer can lead to a fire.
Dryer fires more common than you think By MICHAEL MAZUR Special Sections Writer JASPER — As your family’s clothes tumble in the dryer, the last thing you probably think of is the possibility that the lint — those tiny fibers of cloth that break away from those clothes — could be the tinder to start a fire. A recent survey that spanned from 2008 to ’10 done by the U.S. Fire Association concluded that 2,900 home fires that were reported caused millions of dollars in property losses and lead to five deaths and 100 injuries. Lint that builds in duct work restricts airflow and pushes lint into the dryer unit, collecting on the sides and piling around the motor and heating element. You should clean the lint filter screen after every use, but that lint could just be the tip of the tail of the fire-breathing dragon lurking in your dryer. The use of fabric sheets adds to the problem when the sheet’s coating, used to prevent static cling, breaks off and collects on the sides of the duct work and dryer, acting like a glue pad and collecting lint, according to Nick Brames, owner of A-Plus Appliance Solutions. “I get many calls about dryers taking too long to dry the clothes or the unit is not heating up,” said Brames, who has 15 years of experience in appliance repair. Dryers are among the top appliances he get called to repair. He has serviced many dryers that are only three to five years old when the manufacturer suggests a life span of 15 to 20 years. “When I get those calls,” he said, “I pretty much know what the problem is.” Brames uses a meter to measure airflow within the unit while it is running empty. If the airflow is restricted, he takes the unit apart and cleans away lint buildup, including whatever has built around the motor, heating element and duct work leading to the
outside vent. Then, he rechecks the airflow. He said the dryer should always be vented to the outside and not into interior wall spaces and crawl spaces. On average service call to clean a dryer unit in Jasper is about $75. The charge is dependent upon several factors that include the distance he needs to travel, the length of the duct work and the number of bends in the duct work. Each bend, he says, can add an additional 5 feet to the overall length. However, if parts have to be replaced, those are added to the cost. Many older homes still have the laundry units in the basement, which usually allows for a shorter, straight run of the duct work directly outside. However, many newer homes have laundry rooms on the upper levels and in the interior of the house. In order to get the duct work mapped to an outside wall, it takes greater lengths and may take several bends to reach the outside wall. After the initial service call, subsequent cleanings average about an hour and a half to complete. He recommends that cleanings become a periodic service. Some clients have their ducts
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cleaned annually, others every two or three years. He added that there is no contract to sign, but that he does set up a friendly reminder when it is time to inspect it again. “Every situation is different,” he says. “An older couple will have lighter usage of the dryer than an active family of four or five.” The number of times the dryer is used, the length of the duct work and the material used to create the duct work are all factors in scheduling periodic servicing. Four-inch aluminum or other smooth, flexible metal duct work is the best material, he said. The smooth sides enhance the movement of the lint to the outside vent
and cause lesser buildup than plastic and the vinyl accordionstyle duct work purchased over the counter. The ribs in the accordion-style duct work act as depositories for the lint, in turn clogging faster and making them more difficult to clean. Remember these signs that it may be time to clean your dryer vent: drying clothes takes longer and longer, the clothing and walls of the dryer are hot, you may notice a burning smell and your outside dryer vent flap may not open as it should during drying times. By keeping your dryer as lint free as possible, you will reduce a fire hazard and save utility money by having a dryer that runs more
smoothly and efficiently, which in turn will maintain and increase the life of the dryer with fewer repairs. It is recommended that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions on installing and operating the dryer; that includes not operating the dryer when no one is at home or when everyone is asleep. Keeping your dryer duct work and unit as lint free as possible is really not a big expense or investment, but it can have great returns in that it makes laundry duties simpler and helps prevent fires that can lead to tragedy. A-Plus Appliance Solutions can be contacted at 812-630-3699 or nickbrames@gmail.com.
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FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 3
Fill your garden with autumn vegetables By CHELLE CORDERO Creators.com The weather is cooler, and there are fewer mosquitoes to bother you while you’re working in your garden. A fall vegetable garden comes with even more rewards. Some of the best coldweather meals start with vegetables that flourish while the leaves turn colors; think soups, stews and stir-fried sides. Publisher Kimberlee Williams, who lives in the Pacific Northwest, says, “I love my beets, spinach and leeks (for a great leek soup with bacon), and the only problems I’ve had are with carrots, which for some reason got a little soft instead of nice and crisp. Now we have a community garden, and a bunch of folks are looking forward to growing kale this fall.” Kale, turnips, Brussels sprouts, horseradish, parsnips, beets, spinach and winter squashes (butternut, acorn, buttercup, kabocha, hubbard, pumpkins, etc.) are popular choices for fall gardens and cold-weather harvesting. You should ideally plant onions, leeks, broccoli, collards and cabbage the first week of August in most climates. It’s said that some vegetables taste better after the first frost, including kale and Brussels sprouts. Carrots can remain in the ground when the weather turns cold but should be harvested before the ground freezes. Many root vegetables can be left in the ground through the winter, as long as you cover them with a heavy layer of mulch; 1 to 2 feet of hay or straw is recommended. “A frost can occur anywhere from 36 degrees Fahrenheit to 32 degrees Fahrenheit,” according to Cornell Cooperative Extension. “A light freeze refers to temperatures between 28 degrees Fahrenheit and 31 degrees Fahrenheit , a moderate freeze between 24 degrees Fahrenheit and 28 degrees Fahrenheit , and severe freeze below 24 degrees Fahrenheit .” Listen to your local weather channel for frost warnings. If a frost is forecast after a period of warmer weather, then you can protect your plants by covering them, with or without stakes; a breathable fabric, such as burlap, is better than plastic. Plants will stay warmer by about 2 to 5 degrees if the fabric is not touching the plant. Cover your plants in late afternoon, and uncover them when the morning sun is up. Most plants can survive a first frost when the temperatures before (and after) are higher. Lightly watering the ground will also help to raise the temperature in the garden, as water retains more heat than dry soil. A small amount of frost on the surface of the vegetable won’t hurt most varieties. It’s the internal temperature that is important; once serious frost damage occurs, the vegetable cannot be revived. Raised bed gardens tend to dry faster after summer rains, so you can get cool-season crops planted sooner and expand your
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Fall vegetables planted at the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Putnam, N.Y., are ready to use by mid-October. vegetable crop choices. By placing semicircle hoops over the raised bed, you can easily cover your plants to protect from frost or create a mini-greenhouse effect to extend your growing season. The raised bed allows for a softer medium for seedlings to sprout, and root vegetables, such as carrots and beets, will have more freedom to grow. Determine your planting schedule by finding out the expected first frost date and then checking the package for the number of days the vegetable takes to go from seedling to maturity. Add two weeks to that number, and then count backward from the frost date. If the weather is still hot when you need to plant your seeds, start them indoors in a cool area before transplanting to your outdoor fall garden. Now is the time to clean up the garden area from pests that can damage plants. Slugs like to lay eggs under the dying leaves from the summer crop and can cause a lot of damage to young vegetables. Novelist LK Hunsaker says, “Crumbled eggshells and coffee grounds help prevent slugs, and
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they’re good for your plants.” Before planting your fall crop, clear away the remains of nonproducing summer plants, and add rich compost to the soil. Also, turn the soil bed to break up hard clumps. Spraying plant leaves with a mild mix of hand dishwashing liquid and water can help deter other harmful insects, as well. If you
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PAGE 4 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Weatherstripping keeps warm air inside house By MARK J. DONOVAN Creators.com One way to keep your home warmer this winter is to replace or install weatherstripping around your doors and windows. Weatherstripping seals the gaps around doors and windows to prevent warm air from escaping your home. Your doors and windows may already have weatherstripping built into them; however, the weatherstripping can become permanently compressed or damaged over time. In some cases, the weatherstripping may only be working around a portion of the door or window frame. In these situations, you’ll find a variety of weatherstripping choices at any home improvement store to either replace the old weatherstripping or augment what is already there. To check the existing weatherstripping for proper functionality, feel around the edges of the door or window with your hand. Note that it is preferable to do this on a cold windy day. If you feel cold air drafts around the doors and windows, then you know you have a weatherstripping problem. After identifying the locations of the door and window drafts, it is time to consider the type of weatherstripping to install. Foam weatherstripping The most prevalent type of weatherstripping, and the easiest to install, is foam weatherstripping. Foam weatherstripping has an adhesive on the back of it. All you have to do is cut it to length, remove the paper that exposes the sticky surface, and apply it to the door or window frame. When the door or window is closed, the weatherstripping compresses and forms an airtight seal. Foam weatherstripping typically has a limited life of a few years, and so you will need to periodically check
it to make sure the foam does not remain compressed when the door or window is open. Felt weatherstripping Felt weatherstripping is very similar to foam weatherstripping. You simply cut it to length and then tack it to the door or window frame with brads. Felt weatherstripping can also be found with an adhesive backing. Spring metal strips Spring metal strips are frequently used around doors. They are available in a number of metal-type finishes and come in either long strips or rolls. They attach to the sides of the doorframe with brads. Spring metal strips are a more durable type of weatherstripping compared to the foam weatherstripping. There are also metal strips that come with an adhesive-backed surface. These are a little easier to install, as all you need to do is remove the paper backing from the adhesive coating and then press the metal strip against the doorframe. Interlocking metal strips Interlocking metal strips come in two sections. One part fits on the doorframe or window frame and the other on the door or window itself. When they come in contact with each other, they compress together to form a tight seal. Interlocking metal strips require some patience and installation skills because close alignment work is required.
Weatherstripping, important for energy efficiency, can become damaged over time. MARK DONOVAN CREATORS.COM
grade door and window caulk. Typical areas for using caulk are around exterior doorframes and window frames, e.g. where clapboards butt up against the side of the door or window frame, and around vent pipes and fan assemblies. To install caulk, just cut
the end of the tube at a 45-degree angle, puncture the inside seal of the caulk tube with a long nail, and then insert it into a caulking gun. Then simply compress the plunger and apply a bead of caulk around the door/window frame or vent tube.
Installing door and window weatherstripping is easy to do, and it can save you a bundle on home heating costs. So check out your doors and windows today to determine whether they are in need of some weatherstripping.
Vinyl inserts As what is typically used on portable air conditioners, accordion-shaped vinyl inserts are another type of weatherstripping. They are used for filling gaps in larger openings. Caulk With larger spaces or uneven spaces, it is best to use exterior-
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 5
Dig up, put flower bulbs to bed for winter By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com Nothing says “spring is coming” like the first sight of bulb plants pushing their sprouts up through the ground, sometimes through snow, promising spring flowers on the way. But in many regions of the country, non-hardy summer-flowering bulbs (some of which originate in tropical and subtropical climates) won’t survive a cold winter. So it’s best to dig up those bulbs, store them safely over the winter and then replant them next spring. Having avoided ultra-frosty conditions, your bulbs can keep delivering on your investment in them, adding cheery color to your springtime landscape. Here’s how to dig up most bulbs for safe winter storage: ■■ According to the National Gardening Association’s experts, you’ll know when it’s time to dig up your non-hardy summerflowering bulbs when foliage has turned yellow. “If leaves are still green, they are still working to provide food to replenish the bulb,” say the National Gardening Association’s experts. Once foliage begins to turn yellow, that’s a sign that its job is done, and it’s ready to be stored. “This often occurs around the time of the first light frost.” ■■ Using a spade or gardening fork, carefully loosen the soil around the flowering plant and gently lift the bulb from the ground. ■■ Gently brush off any excess soil from the bulb. Inspect the bulb for any signs of disease or rot. If
you do see any diseased spots, it’s often best to discard the troubled bulb — but don’t place it in your compost bin. The nature of that disease or mold could infect your healthy compost. ■■ Leave the bulb and its attached foliage out in a warm, dry location — you may hang it in a basket for good air circulation — to “cure” the bulb for seven to 10 days, say NGA experts. ■■ Once the bulb has cured, trim the foliage down to 1/2 inch from the bulb. ■■ Stored bulbs must be kept dry and have access to good air circulation. “One method is to place the bulbs in a box of peat moss, sand or sawdust, spreading them out so the bulbs aren’t touching each other. Don’t stack bulbs deeper than three layers,” advise NGA experts. ■■ Another method is simply washing the bulbs and spreading them in a shaded place so that they can dry. Once dry, store them away from sunlight in a cool, dry spot. “If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them,” says Stacey McCloskey, editor of the blog Master Gardener Girls. As you go, make sure you label the bulbs you’re storing, including their flower color, so that you can more easily replant them by groupings or in arranged patterns in the spring. ■■ Never store bulbs in a sealed container, because any mois-
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Carefully digging up bulbs can provide excellent spring flowers at a savings. ture that remains in the bulb or soil will lead to rot, ruining your bulbs. Bulbs fare best at a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit — so in a cool, dry basement or an unheated garage that stays above freezing. Don’t store your bulbs in a space that dips below the freezing point or gets warmer than 70 degrees, says McCloskey. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep, because deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay. And in addition to avoiding too-cold or too-warm conditions, don’t store your bulbs in an area where ethylene gas is produced by fruit, or your bulbs could rot. ■■ Check your bulbs periodically over the course of the winter,
discarding any that show signs of rot. Some bulbs require exceptions to the general rules. “Leave the soil on begonia, caladium, canna, dahlia and ismene bulbs,” says McCloskey. “Store these bulbs on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place.” The NGA suggests the following for some specific types of bulbs: ■■ Cannas: You can leave these bulbs in the ground in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 and warmer. In colder regions, cut these plants down to about 6 inches in height after the first frost kills the foliage. Then carefully lift each clump
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of rhizomes and store them in a method described earlier. Cannas like to be stored in slightly warmer temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. ■■ Caladiums: These tropical plants need to be dug up before the first frost, and then let the plant dry. Cut the foliage back to an inch, and then pack the bulbs loosely in peat moss, storing them in a warmer environment of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. ■■ Dahlias: In cold regions, after frost kills the foliage but before the ground freezes, cut these plants back to a few inches in height. Carefully lift clumps, brushing off clinging soil, and then allow the tubers to cure for at least a week. Then put them in a plastic-lined box filled with peat moss or perlite, spacing them so that they aren’t touching. Store in a dry area at 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t let them dry out completely, thouøgh. You may need to add some moisture to these looselidded stored bulbs. ■■ Gladioli: In regions colder than zones 7 or 8, dig the corms before the first frost. Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms, and let cure for one to two weeks in a warm, airy location. Then, remove and discard the older corms on the bottom. Store the new corms in plastic mesh bags in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit room. For all bulbs, the advice is the same: Do not divide or separate bulbs before storing them. Done right, your bulbs will spend the winter in a hospitable environment and will be ready to plant and bloom in the spring.
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PAGE 6 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
5 options for additional warmth in winter By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com With cooler weather on the way, you’re likely thinking about ways to warm up your house without raising heating bills. According to the U.S. Energy Department website, heating and cooling accounts for more than half of the energy use in a typical American home. And as you know, those bills add up. In addition to energy expenses, big chilly-weather pet peeves may be those ice-cold floors your feet meet each morning when stepping out of the shower or the need to wrap up in blankets when watching TV in your den. Some homeowners are ready to upgrade their furnaces to more powerful models, but if the time isn’t quite right for you, consider these five popular heat features to keep your home toasty warm. 1) Portable fireplace. A real fireplace may be on your wish list, but a big construction job is not. If you’d like to avoid demolishing walls, hiring a contractor, bringing in an electrician and other pricey steps of fireplace installation, you’ll be happy to discover the many models of portable, stylish fireplaces that require no chimney and don’t create the mess of a real fireplace. The experts at Holly & Martin show portable fireplaces in a range of wood colors from mahogany to white,
2) Radiant heat. Radiant flooring, usually installed beneath the tiles of bathroom floors, creates a comfortable warmth when you step on that flooring after a bath or shower. No longer will you feel as though you’re standing on a block of ice while brushing your teeth. Tile floors tend to hold low temperatures, especially if your thermostat is set to low temperatures overnight. Radiant heat flooring removes that bone-chilling (and perhaps arthritis-annoying) cold, eliminating the need to raise your thermostat to dramatically high levels each morning. 3) Eco-friendly portable space heater. The experts at the eco-living website TreeHugger recently selected their favorite models of eco-friendly space heaters. Among the designs are those with a 360-degree heat radius to quickly warm an entire room, space-age oval designs and portable space heaters with a preheat timer that allow you to wake up to an already warmed room. 4) Towel warmer. Electric towel warmers ensure that you can immediately wrap yourself
in a cozy, warmed towel when you step out of the shower or bath. They come in rack form — in chrome or antique gold color — or as a lidded canister that fits several towels at once. An automatic shut-off feature in some designs provides added safety. 5) Solar heat. For a pricier fix, consider adding solar panels that harness the sun’s energy to create heat and energy. The U.S. Energy Department suggests getting an expert energy audit for your home, and then working with building professionals experienced in energy-efficient house design. Whenever using heat-producing products, always familiarize yourself with the product’s safety instructions to prevent fires and electrical issues, and never leave heating features on when not in the room or after leaving your home. To maximize energy efficiency, unplug your electric heating features so that they don’t continue to draw upon your energy system even when they’re not in use.
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Electric fireplace: Green alternative By ERIC CHRISTENSEN Creators.com For homeowners who experience cold winters, the warmth and crackle of a fireplace can be a wonderful addition to a home. But when a typical homeowner pictures a fireplace, they will usually imagine a wood-burning or natural gas-burning fireplace. However, there is a third option: an electronic fireplace. Although less common, electric fireplaces are often safer, greener, less expensive to operate and more stylish than other options. Unlike a wood or natural gas fireplace, an electronic fireplace does not actually produce a flame. The illusory “flames” are simply light refracted in a random, threedimensional pattern. As for the heat, “think of it like a toaster. It has a coil that heats up. The heat simply radiates out, or it can have a blower attached to it — like a fan behind a toaster,” says Bobby Renner, chief building scientist for America’s Best Energy Team. Wilfred Weihe, a contributor to ElectricFireplaceHeater.org, says an electric fireplace doesn’t give off enough heat to warm an entire house, but it generates enough heat to warm a 400 square-foot room. Because nothing burns, electronic fireplaces are considered safer than wood or gas fireplaces. The lack of a flame also means that “there are no flying embers. There are no exposed hot surfaces to cause accidental burns. Materials are usually cool to the touch. There are no chimneys that need to be cleaned or regular maintenance of any kind,” Weihe says. And Renner adds, “Without combustion, there’s no worry about carbon monoxide or anything like that.” And because there are no gases or toxins released, electronic fireplaces are greener than wood or gas options. Weihe notes, “There is no buildup of sulfur, nitrogen oxides, formaldehyde or other toxins that can cause wheezing, asth-
ma or bronchitis.” Electronic fireplaces are also the most energy efficient. Weihe continues, “With coils producing heat via electricity, and fans or blowers distributing the warmth, all energy is fully used. None is wasted.” That energy efficiency leads to another benefit: “Electronic fireplaces are inexpensive to buy, install, and use,” Renner says. Weihe adds, “You can find an electric fireplace to fit just about any budget. Some cost as little as $200.” An electronic model will be the easiest and cheapest to install, because all it requires is a power source. A wood fireplace will require a chimney, and a gas fireplace will require a gas line. Renner compares the operating costs of the various models: “Electronic fireplaces cost about five to ten cents an hour to operate, whereas a natural gas fireplace costs about twenty cents an hour, and a wood fireplace will require wood, time to chop and so on.” Regarding maintenance costs, Weihe
says, “Replacement parts are also less expensive for an electric fireplace, and repairs are easy.” Finally, electric fireplaces can also meet just about any style. Weihe says, “They come in various sizes, materials, styles, colors and wattage. They are versatile and can fit any area of any room in any style or size home.” Renner echoes this sentiment, saying, “I think people will be surprised by the different electric fireplaces available.” However, electric fireplaces do have their drawbacks. For some people, the lack of a real flame is a deal breaker. Others do not like electric fireplaces’ smaller size because they tend not to give off as much heat as a wood or gas fireplace. Similarly, unlike a wood or gas fireplace, “electric fireplaces will not work if a winter storm knocks out the power,” Weihe notes. Another common See GREEN on Page 8
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 7
Easy to prepare roses for cold weather By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com
■■ Don’t prune your rosebushes in late summer, because pruning also encourages new growth. ■■ Don’t deadhead your roses in fall. ■■ Keep watering your rosebushes, giving the root system plenty of hydration before the ground freezes. The experts at http:///www.rose-bushes.com say, “Roses can suffer as much from dehydration as from cold during the winter.” ■■ Don’t mulch with the wrong types of mulch materials. According to http:///www.rose-bushes. com, “maple, willow, poplar leaves and grass clippings should not be used as winter mulch; they absorb water, mat down, and cut off oxygen to the crown and roots, smothering the plant. Oak and beech leaves shed water and are very good as winter mulches. Heavy wet, clay-like soils, if used in mounding, can also smother the roses.” ■■ Consider building a protective structure around your roses, especially if you get a lot of wind where your rose plants are lo-
It’s time to prepare your rosebushes for the coming cold weather, and if you have different types of rosebushes, you’ll need to prepare each of them in a different way to keep them protected during winter’s most dramatic freezes and winds, according to experts writing at http://www. rose-bushes.com. Tea roses To prepare tea rose plants for winter, it’s important to gather plenty of soil and mulch up and over the base of the rosebush — about 8 inches high. Doing this will protect the graft union of the rosebush from the severe cold. Prune down hybrid tea roses to about 12 to 18 inches in height, and then cover them up to protect them from the wind and the sun. Avoid using plastic rose cones that do not have ventilation holes, or rot could form. Shrub roses: Shrub roses generally need little winter protection because most shrub rosebushes do not have a graft union that you need to protect. Still, it helps to place at least 3 or 4 inches of new mulch over the top of the bed to help protect the plants’ root systems and stalks. You may choose to fertilize them at least a few weeks before the soil freezes. Climbing roses: For climbing roses, it’s best to lay the canes down for winter protection — but only after leaves are completely off the plant and the plants have “hardened off” — and cover with a layer of mulch. In the spring, when the danger of any severe cold has passed, pull the mulch off the canes of the plant, and stand them back up again. Tips for all roses and rosebushes ■■ Preparation starts early. In
SMITHFIELDGARDENS.COM/CREATORS.COM
Get your roses ready for winter by following a few easy steps. spring and summer, your rosebushes get healthy via your best care. Watering, weeding, fertilizing, pruning, controlling diseases and fighting off insects will help create healthy, blooming plants that can face winter better because they’re so well-fed and hydrated. Healthy rosebushes will survive winter better than weak plants. ■■ Stop fertilizing your rosebushes in mid-August. If you fertilize in late summer and fall, that encourages new growth in the plant. Tender young branches will
BRAD ECKERLE
not be able to face winter well and will likely die during the winter. ■■ In late fall, pick off any remaining leaves on the stems, and pick up any dead leaves or dried blooms on the ground around your rose plant’s base. David Brill, plant expert at The Farm at Green Village, warns against disease that can spread to rose trees because of dead leaves and organics on the ground; pests can feed on these materials, and fungus can grow on them.
cated. Build a protective shield of chicken wire covered with burlap to surround your rosebushes. Remember that the temperature fluctuations leading into winter, including warm sun in midday and the plunge to below freezing at night, can be a real danger to your new and established rose plants, says Brill. And don’t forget that the unique qualities of your garden soil also figure into your rosebushes’ winter needs. As you make preparations for your rosebushes to survive the winter, take a sample of your soil to your local garden center, and take with you the tags for the types of roses you planted. (If you didn’t keep the tags, take close-up photos of your rosebushes with your smartphone.) The experts there can advise you on the best care products, protective shield products and steps to take for your rosebushes, and they can test your soil for proper pH levels and other nutrient needs to help your rosebushes not just survive the winter but better thrive after the cold weather has passed.
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PAGE 8 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Audit helps ensure energy-efficient house By MARK J. DONOVAN Creators.com An energy-efficient house is tantamount to keeping winter heating bills down. By conducting a fall season home energy audit, no doubt you will find ways to save energy at home this winter. Even if your home was originally constructed as an energy-efficient house, ultimately time and nature have a way of taking their toll on your home. For example, opening and closing doors and windows over months and years can cause weatherstripping to break down and lose its ability to insulate and protect your home from cold winter drafts. To ensure an energy-efficient home this winter, grab a pen and notebook, and take a tour of your home and conduct your own home energy audit. Start in the furnace room. Check to see when you most recently had your furnace cleaned. It should be cleaned every year, even if it is a gas furnace. A clean furnace is critical for ensuring that it is operating safely and efficiently. If your home has a basement, check the exposed hot water supply pipes and see whether they are insulated with pipe foam insulation. If not, insulate them. It’s cheap, and it is an easy do-ityourself project for saving energy at home. Next on your home energy audit is to check all the doors and windows and confirm that they open and close properly. Inspect the weatherstripping to confirm that it’s in good working order, as well. Ideally, examine the doors
MARK DONOVAN/CREATORS.COM
To ensure an energy-efficient home, take a tour of your home and conduct your own home energy audit. and windows on a cool, windy day so that you can check for drafts. The attic is the chief culprit for winter home energy loss. Heat rises, and if the attic is improperly insulated, heat from the lower living areas of the home will find its way into the attic and eventually out of the home via the ridge and soffit roof vents. Inspect the attic for proper insulation. Depending upon where you live, you should have at least R-30 or R-38 insulation in the at-
tic. Make sure that when inspecting the insulation, you check for small breaks. Even the smallest of un-insulated areas in the attic can lead to a dramatic reduction in energy efficiency. Next take a look at the shower heads in your bathrooms. Heating water is another major culprit in high energy costs. By replacing the old shower heads with lowflow shower heads, you can dramatically save energy at home. lectrical appliances and light fixtures. By replacing the standard incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs, you can reduce your home’s lighting energy consumption by as much as 70 percent. Also, if you have the budget, consider replacing some of the old appliances — for example, the refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave and washer and dryer — with Energy Star appliances. So conduct your own home energy audit this fall, and implement some, if not all, of the suggestions I recommended. By doing so, you will be guaranteed to have an energy-efficient house this winter.
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Green (Concluded from Page 6) complaint Weihe hears is that although an electric fireplace does not get as hot as other types of fireplace, some electric models have a firebox or blower low to the ground, requiring installation away from carpet, drapes or other flammable materials. Renner also notes, “When wood or gas burn, it releases moisture, but straight electrical heat is just heat. It won’t create any moisture, so an electric fireplace can dry out a room.” Like most interior design
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 9
Snow mold can damage healthy lawn By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com After the long, cold winter, it’s a beautiful sight when your green lawn appears once again. But you might notice unsightly grayish circles all over your lawn, a sign that your lawn has snow mold. According to Kelly Burke, the About.com expert of lawn care, “Snow mold is a fungal disease that appears in early spring as the snow melts.” There are two types: Grey snow mold (Typhula blight) and pink snow mold (Fusarium patch). Fusarium patch appears to have a pinkish color of weblike growth. Dead, matted grass in circular patterns, as small as 3 inches and as large as 12 inches, are the telltale signs of snow mold. “Depending on the severity of the outbreak,” says Burke. “The circles can coalesce and become a large mass.” And it’s not uncommon to see grey and pink snow mold occurring together. Snow mold circles are “caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen,” says Burke. They can occur due to latesummer lawn fertilization, causing ample lawn growth late in the season. They are also formed under leaves or long grass left on the lawn all winter. The experts at Scotts lawn care say, “With a few preventive steps, you can reduce the likelihood that your lawn will be attacked by this disease.” Here are some prevention and maintenance tips: ■■ Know your region’s risk for snow mold growth. According
Take smart steps to prevent snow mold circles on your lawn after winter. TCGARDENS.COM CREATORS.COM
to the Scotts experts, grey snow mold likes cold, damp weather with temperatures around 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit for an extended period of time. ■■ Mow before the snow. Since long grass is a breeding ground for grew snow mold, cut your lawn just a bit shorter than usual before the snow arrives. ■■ Don’t let organic material pile up. Mats of leaves and long grass clippings can bring on snow mold circles. “In the fall, use your lawnmower to mulch leaves into the lawn,” say the Scotts experts. And rake up those lawn cuttings to add to your compost bin. ■■ Take it easy on the nitrogen. While some lawn foods promote fast-release nitrogen as a way to green up your lawn, too much can feed the growth of snow mold.
Choose instead a low-nitrogen, slow-release lawn food, such as a winterguard variety, that will give your lawn extra nutrients without the excess nitrogen. ■■ Manage thatch levels beneath the surface of your lawn. Thatch is a thick layer of organic materials — shoots, stems and roots — that grows beneath your grass. A thicker layer of thatch could starve your lawn of nutrients and provide a ready environment for snow mold growth. ■■ Seek guidance about fungicides for your lawn. Burke says that while fungicides are available for the prevention and treatment of snow mold, they might not be recommended since snow mold damage is often superficial. In many cases, once the area has dried, the infection can die down
and new grass will grow, renewing the lawn area affected. ■■ To speed up your lawn’s recovery, you may lightly rake the affected areas to encourage drying, and apply some extra grass
seed to grow new, healthy turf. ■■ In extreme snow mold cases, you may be able to repatch affected lawn areas to remove the blight and help create a circle-free, lush, green lawn.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
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Weeding tricks get to root of the problem By JEANELLE HORCASITAS Creators.com I hate weeds. Not just because of the devastation they can incite upon a beautiful garden or lawn. No. It’s much more personal than that. I hate weeds because getting rid of them was the absolute worst chore I ever had growing up. Grasping, twisting and uprooting weeds repeatedly for many years was enough for me to despise this plant forever. Unfortunately, weeds are also one of those plants that are impossible to completely destroy. However, there are a number of methods that can help prevent the havoc these pesky plants can wreak on your backyard sanctuary. Weeds come in a range of shapes and sizes. There are even weeds that have flowers, making it even more difficult to decipher the good from the bad. According to the University of California Agriculture & Natural Resources, there are three common weeds you might encounter: broadleaves, grasses and sedges. Specifically, broadleaves are wide with veins that spread in different directions. Grasses are narrow, in sets of two, with rounded or flattened stems. Sedges are also narrow, in sets of three, and with stems that are triangular in a cross section. The most common weed I’ve had to deal with is the broadleaf. Luckily, the method I learned for getting rid of these weeds was non-toxic, yet effective. While physically pulling weeds is the simplest way to prevent them from spreading and getting out of control, it must be done correctly. The best way to get rid of a weed is to pull it from its roots. If you simply pull the leaves from the top (with the illusion that the weed is “removed”) you will be mistakenly leaving the root inside the
PANEK/CREATORS.COM
This photo shows how the crabgrass weed can completely take over. soil, and this gives the weed the opportunity to return. That is why it is extremely important to make sure the root has been completely removed from the soil. However, on occasion, there are monstrous roots that are just too thick and strong to remove with your bare hands. In this case, it’s time to bring out the reinforcements. A great tool that gets the job done is the Fiskars Uproot Weed Remover from Home Depot. Additionally, there are a few home remedies and organic herbicides that can be used. Writer Steve Graham from Networx recommends organic soaps, plant oil blends and, most commonly, concentrated vinegar to aid in weed removal. Sadly, many of these products are not strong enough to keep weeds from returning, and therefore it is usually best to just get down and dirty and rip them out yourself. Although dealing with most weeds is a nuisance, crabgrass
ly leave it ruined and overpowered by the weed. Crabgrass is also one of the most difficult weeds to get rid of. Even spraying various weed removals can be ineffective. Therefore, most times this weed must be dug out completely. However, according to Lawn Care, an organization dedicated to providing free lawn advice to landscapers and home owners, using pre-emergent treatments in early spring can help prevent giving crabgrass the opportunity to grow and thrive in the hot summer months. In the worst cases, you may completely lose your lawn. At this point, the best action to take is to dig at least two inches into the soil, spray it with weed prevention, let it sit for a week, and then replant your sod. Sadly, a weed-free lawn only lasts about six months (with constant
can be the most aggravating, as it can completely annihilate your lawn if it’s not properly taken care of. The UC Agriculture & Natural Resources explains that there are two common crabgrass species in California: smooth and large crabgrass. This weed has a central root, with stems growing outwardly from it, similar to a crab’s shape. Crabgrass is also an annual weed that grows in the summer and survives in areas that receive little to no water. In short, California’s current drought makes lawns and plants even more susceptible to a crabgrass takeover. It is extremely important that crabgrass is removed the moment that it is spotted. The blog GreenerGreenGrass explains that “when crabgrass grows in your lawn, it depletes the soil of nutrients and water that are intended for the grass plants.” Moreover, leaving crabgrass untreated will debilitate your lawn and eventual-
care), after which the weed can eventually return. Weeds are definitely a hassle to deal with, but they are not impossible to remove or maintain. The best advice for plant-and-lawn care is to be diligent, especially when getting a new lawn. Proper lawn care includes fertilization every three months and proper watering depending on the needs of your lawn. But the best defense against weeds is simply making your lawn stronger than the weed so that it never has the opportunity to overpower it. As the brilliant Leonardo da Vinci once said, “Even the richest soil, if left uncultivated, will produce the rankest weeds.” So when it comes to your plant life, make sure you cultivate it properly by getting rid of those weeds from the get-go!
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Area rug can completely change feel of room By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com For an easy room refresh, simply add a new area rug. Unlike the complicated task of a full-room rug installation, all it takes to create a new feel for a room is to unroll an area rug of any size, set it in place and call it a day. Area rugs achieve several decor goals at once: adding color, adding texture and defining a space within a room, such as a sitting area or an area for play or sleep. For example, a large area rug placed beneath a bed becomes a sort of frame for the bed, and depending on your choice of color and material, a rug can add warmth to a room or a dramatic pop of color in that neutral room you find so boring. An area rug can change the look of a room, making it seem as if you’ve just painted, and can elevate the look of your furniture -- say, by bringing out the shade of your couch or the soft texture of its suede material. Best of all, this is one “remodel” that can be done on a budget, especially if using home-decor store coupons or reward points to load up on area rugs for several rooms at once. Here are the top five new trends in area rugs to help inspire you: 1) Shape. Area rugs aren’t just the traditional rectangular styles you may be used to. Now, you can find square rugs, ovals and circles to create your desired effect. 2) Graphic patterns. In a simply designed room with little pattern, area rugs add a punch of artistry to the space. According to the design team at the Home Design Lover blog (homedesignlover.com), trendy patterns for area rugs include oversized geometric shapes, colorful checkerboard patterns, cobblestone, branches and other nature motifs including birds, black-andwhite lace for a formal bedroom or bathroom design, oversized stripes that create a nautical theme, and pairing two vibrant shades for a child’s playroom. 3) Layered rugs. Shelly Hill, associate editor at the online furniture company Wayfair.com, says, “To create a space that’s
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Area rugs provide a quick and colorful change to a room’s look. unique and full of warmth, consider layering two (or even three) area rugs on top of each other. A few popular combinations are: jute or sisal and animal hide, multiple kilim rugs, and flatweave and sheepskin. The key to this trend is to keep the larger bottom rug in a neutral color. By setting a neutral base, you can layer a fun, colorful or patterned rug on top, and it won’t clash or become too overwhelming.” Hill advises making sure the top rug is at least 12 to 18 inches smaller than the bottom rug so that you can see the contrast between the two. 4) Message on a rug. Messages are not just for wall hangings. Every morning when you walk into your kitchen to make your coffee, you can see “This day will be beautiful” on the rug at the foot of the sink, or be reminded to “live, laugh, love” on an area rug set before your coffee maker. Kids’ rooms could
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 15
Small patio can become productive garden By JEANELLE HORCASITAS Creators.com Biting into a juicy red tomato or a crunchy cucumber from my mother’s backyard was one of my favorite things to do as a kid. I loved the task of assessing the right shape, color and firmness to determine whether or not it was ready to be eaten. Fortunately, I’ve always had fresh fruits and vegetables from the yards of my parents and grandparents. So when I decided to start my own garden, I assumed I knew it all. I definitely did not. My biggest obstacle was figuring out a creative way to use my limited cement-covered patio space to bring life and verdure to the area. I spent hours pinning some great ideas to my Pinterest gardening board for inspiration. However, the most crucial information I found came from a variety of sources: Urban Organic Gardener, HGTV and my favorite, About.com’s Home and Garden section. I loved About.com the most because it clearly summarized how to get a vegetable container garden started, how to successfully maintain it, and even included a few suggestions for newbie vegetable gardeners. According to About.com’s container gardening expert Kerry Michaels, the easiest vegetables to grow are: peas, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, eggplant, and summer or zucchini squash. I headed to Home Depot to collect my supplies. I decided to start small (three plants) to see if I inherited my family’s green thumb. Standing in line at the register with my cherry tomato, green bell pepper and Serrano pepper seedlings — I felt as though I was off to a good start. Unfortunately, when I got up to the counter and the employee observed my purchases, he amusingly informed me that if I intended on planting these seedlings in potted containers, I would need potting mix soil, not garden soil. Helen Tuton of Healthy Urban Habitat explains, “Potting mix is specially blended to hold the correct amount of moisture in a container, and provide a stable growing medium for pot plants.” Versus gardening soil, which is best to mix 50/50 with already existing soil, according to Tuton. Despite the embarrassing setback, I got on my hands and knees and gave it a try. It took me about an hour and a half to scoop enough dirt in each pot, delicately place the seedling within the soil, add some Vigoro plant food and top them off with water. According to The Garden Helper, it takes about four to five months for tomatoes and peppers to grow. I’m not sure why I expected overnight success like “Jack and the Beanstalk,” but I was eager to see the fruits of my labor. Thus, the
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ing these crawling creatures from chomping on my tomato plants. Andrews suggests inspecting your plants twice a week and removing any caterpillars and placing them in soapy water Alternatively, planting spearmint, clover or daisies near your tomato plant attracts paper wasps, which are a natural predator of the caterpillar. Like any new project, I knew that gardening would be a challenge. And, despite being around gardeners my entire life, I still made a few rookie mistakes. However, I learned my lesson and my plants thankfully survived these
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This tiny green tomato started out as a yellow, budding flower. waiting game began. When I saw some growth in my plants after a couple of weeks, I was ecstatic! I proudly posted pictures to Instagram, proving that I in fact did plant vegetables. No, they hadn’t died within a few days; and, yes, my excitement over my plant’s growth was comedic. However, What made planting these vegetables special was how it strengthened my relationship with my mother and grandparents. Since my plants’ conception, I have made an effort to FaceTime with my mother or my grandparents at least once a week to update them on my plants’ progress. They have expert advice for positioning the plants to get the right amount of sunlight, pruning the bad/dried up parts of the plant and getting rid of pesky caterpillars. A.J. Andrews, writer for the
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little mishaps. Growing my mini apartment garden has strengthened my patience and appreciation for nature. Ruminating over the days I used to dread helping my mom pull weeds, prune leaves, water, plant, and pick up vegetables and fruits from the ground -- I am thankful. Today, I can smile and say that my plants are growing beautifully and fruitfully. There is no excuse for not adding a little greenery to your life. Whether it’s in the dirt from your backyard or in the soil pot on your patio, life can grow anywhere.
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PAGE 16 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Stain gives outdated cabinetry new life By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com You may not need to replace those kitchen or bathroom cabinets, nor the built-ins in your living room or den. All it takes to create the look of newness and perhaps eliminate that outdated light color of your cabinets is staining those wood structures, drawers and doors. When you start looking at stain colors, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. The hues are just so lovely, and some seem so similar in tone, that you may find yourself stumped to such a degree that you can’t even decide between light and dark wood stain. To help you choose a stain color for your cabinetry, here are some tips to keep in mind: ■■ Test colors against your existing hardwood floor color. The shade of your cabinet stain shouldn’t match exactly. You need some color contrast to allow the beautiful finish of your cabinets to stand out. A coordinating shade is ideal. It’s a common error among home remodelers to forget to place stain color samples against their existing flooring and even ceiling colors. ■■ Think about how light, medium and dark stains perform with your room’s theme and style. Lighter stains can, of course, brighten casual spaces and go well with a country-themed room. Medium stains such as chestnut suit more traditional decor in your room’s design, adding richness and warmth while easily complementing many different types of wood in your home. And medium stains can extend beyond wood colors to exotic hues such as pink and green for a more whimsical or even spa-inspired color design. Dark stains such as ebony and mahogany create a rich, stylish look
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Stain colors need to work with your room and with the rooms leading to the room getting a new look. for a room, complementing modern interiors. Dark stain is a top trend now, complementing nonwood pieces such as a clawfoot tub or pedestal sinks whose colors “pop” alongside darker custom cabinetry. ■■ Consider your wood species. According to the experts at The Furniture Guild, “the species of wood you selected for your ... custom cabinetry will greatly affect your selection of wood stain color.” Oak is considered the easiest wood to stain and gives you the greatest amount of color options. Cabinetry (and wood flooring) made of maple, birch and coniferous wood such as pine or fir are difficult to stain evenly and look best when left in their natural hues. It’s a factor to consider,
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since some of these woods come in a more limited number of shades. Talk to your paint store expert to get helpful lessons in different woods’ grain sizes and pores to understand better what goes into your staining process and color choice. ■■ Explore classic and exotic wood stains. For instance, basic wood stain colors may be oak or pine, and you’ll also find exotic wood stain colors such as black forest bamboo, caramel bamboo, ebony, rosewood, wenge and a striped effect called zebrawood,
among other shades suitable for different wood types. ■■ Think about lighting and traffic. Lighter-colored stains will generally show the wood’s knots and whorls, and any dust or pet hairs on your cabinetry won’t be as visible as they would on darker stain. Even scratches on your cabinets can be less evident. Darker stains will camouflage wood’s natural imperfections or make knots less visible, but scratches, dust and pet hair will be more visible. ■■ Complement the other wood
tones and design details in your home. If you already have wood furniture in the room, you’ll want to select a wood stain color that complements your existing piece. Keep in mind that the wood flooring leading from your bedroom or hallway and leading into your bathroom will play a big role in helping you select your cabinetry wood stain colors, so that the shades and tones leading into your bathroom create a beautiful flow of hues and wood details. ■■ Decide between water-based and oil-based color stains. The experts at DIY Network say, “There are several advantages to using water-based color stains. For one thing, they offer a range and intensity of colors that oil-based stains can’t begin to offer. For another, they can be used without the need for ventilation, since they produce no dangerous fumes, and cleanup is simple — just soap and water.” ■■ The DIY Network experts say, “Stains add color but don’t protect wood, so some type of sealant must be used. Don’t use polyurethane, though: It always adds a slight yellow tint. Instead, use a water-based finish, which can be applied with either a brush or an aerosol spray.” ■■ To help you get started considering wood finishes for your custom bathroom remodel, review the Furniture Guild’s helpful chart: http://thefurnitureguild. com/#finishes. Or visit your favorite paint retailer’s website to view their stain color charts, which may be interactive on their site to “try out” wood stain shades on a photo of your room.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 17
Work now will yield green lawn come spring By ANICA WONG Creators.com When fall starts creeping in, there’s no doubt that we begin the winterizing process around our homes. Clean the gutters? Check. Block all of the leaks? On it. Furnace in working order? Yep. But have you taken a look at how to prep your lawn for the cold months ahead? “Winterizing your lawn should be a part of a well-thought-out care plan for your lawn,” says Patti O’Neal, a horticulturist at the Colorado State University Extension in Jefferson County. “If you have not thought of your lawn that way, preparing for winter is as good a time as any to start, and fall is the time to do so.” O’Neal says there are three specific steps that homeowners should take when winterizing their lawn during the late fall season. Fertilization, aeration and watering all combine to give you a great lawn in the springtime. Depending on the turf species, climate and soil type, the
fall is a perfect time to fertilize your lawn if you only do it once a year. O’Neal suggests using a slow-release nitrogen product; this fertilizer will work throughout the winter, helping your lawn to come up green and healthy in the spring. According to the Michigan State University Extension office, turf needs three different nutrients: potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Again, the type and texture of your turf will dictate which of these three nutrients your turf needs more of. Taking a soil sample and talking with your extension office or land-grant university can help you determine how much of each nutrient is best. Aeration is one of the most important things you can do to help your turf survive, says O’Neal. “Aerating the lawn properly will help to improve the root zone of your turf by alleviating compaction, controlling thatch accumulation, which improves water retention and the overall health of the lawn,” she says. Thatch is a loose organic layer
of dead and living stems, roots and other material that develops between the green vegetation and the soil surface. Thatch that grows too thick can cut off the water supply to the turf, among other detrimental effects. Aeration helps to loosen the thatch. Aeration holes should be no more than 2 inches apart and should go both north to south and east to west in order to achieve best results. Though some people might want to pick up the soil cores left over from aeration, O’Neal suggests leaving them, as they help to decompose the thatch. Once you have fertilized and aerated, you are almost done preparing your lawn for the winter season. Depending on when — if at all — your turf goes dormant, watering your lawn during this time may come into play in how well it comes up the next year. O’Neal
says the general rule is to water more deeply and less frequently. If you have a section of your lawn that is prone to drying out quickly (see: south-facing or sloped areas), you may need to supplement by
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hand-watering those areas. This regimen will help to prevent mite damage. These pests tend to feed on dry grass and, depending on your locale, may be more prevalent in the cooler months.
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PAGE 18 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Wall décor can make big impact with little money By KRISTEN CASTILLO Creators.com How often do you redecorate your home? A survey by retailer HomeGoods found that 47 percent of Americans haven’t redecorated in the past five years, with 9 percent saying it’s been more than 10 years since they made décor changes. If you’re ready for a décor refresher, changing your wall hangings is a good place to start. For a small investment, you can make stylish updates to your home. Creating interest and impact “Wall décor is one of the integral layers in every space,” says HGTV star and interior designer Genevieve Gorder. Wall décor can range from framed photography to mirrors to window treatments. “It’s one of the last pieces that go into a space, but whole rooms can be centered and worked off it, if done correctly,” says the host of “Genevieve’s Renovation.” Wall hangings may be the finishing touches to a room, but they have big impact. “It makes the space cozy, inviting and more interesting than staring at blank walls,” says Suchitra Parikh-Crandall, owner and creative director for Monkie Birdie. Gallery walls One of hottest looks in wall
décor is creating a gallery wall. They are easy to design and can be changed as often as homeowners want. “Whether you choose art, frames or mirrors, a gallery wall instantly adds visual interest and depth to a room,” says designer Kerra Michele, founder of the interior and event design company Apartment Envy. She thinks gallery walls, which can be large or small, are a fit for people who don’t want to paint or use wallpaper. “With a gallery wall, all you need is a hammer, some nails and a couple hours of your time to completely transform your space,” she says, noting it personalizes the space, which is “a big plus for renters looking for ways to make their borrowed space feel more like home.” Decals Wall decals are also trendy — for kids and grown-ups. The decals, available in vinyl and Photo Tex fabric, are available in a variety of styles and colors and can be changed out as often as needed. “Although most vinyl decals are removable, they are, in most cases, not re-stickable,” says Parikh-Crandall. “Fabric decals can be removed and reapplied to the walls more than a few dozen times, making it perfect for families on the move or for rentals.”
Creating a feel Wall hangings help define a room and separate spaces, too — for example, designating a sitting area in a family room or a small office in the corner of a kitchen. “Where you want to guide people to go and what you want them to do in a space, the wall décor is a director of that,” says Gorder, who’s partnering with solar service company Sunrun to talk about the must-haves in designing a smart, stylish home, including home solar. Creating contrast in the room can maximize the effect of your wall hangings. Cool shades and low contrast can be calming -- “almost spa-like” -- says Parikh-Crandall, who says high-contrast wall décor can make a space vibrant. Be conscientious about the size of wall hangings, too. “A huge piece of art in a small room can overwhelm and intimidate,” says Parikh-Crandall, whereas “a tiny art piece on a big wall would barely make a difference.” Personalization The easiest wall hangings to change are pieces that are stand-
alone, such as a mirror in a hallway or a frame at the top of the stairs. Established collections — for example, a series of plates hung on a wall — are most likely to remain unchanged because it’s a larger job to redecorate. Still, wall hangings can be a very personal thing. “I tend to decorate with things that are sentimental, an old ticket stub in a frame,” says Gorder, whose walls at home are decorated with a shadow box featuring her grandmother’s satchel and vintage maps from schools. “Everything you put on the
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wall becomes a little precious once it’s there,” says Gorder. “It’s meaningful if you have it on the wall.” Affordability You don’t have to spend a lot of money to have new wall décor. Gallery walls, for example, fit any budget, says Michele, noting you can go pricey using original artwork in custom frames on the wall or budget-friendly decorating the wall with “flea market finds and Ikea frames to create your unique look.” Parikh-Crandall estimates that prices for art prints and wall decals can range from less than $15 to up to $100.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 19
Hungry for home improvement? Start in dining room By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com During the fall and winter holiday season, your dining room will be an important gathering place for dinners, brunches and cocktail parties. The dining room has experienced an evolution in remodeling popularity lately, thanks to breathtaking design projects shown on popular home decorating website Houzz, as well as Pinterest. No matter how large your dining room, you can give it a makeover. Here are the top trends in dining room remodeling projects: 1) Add interesting lighting. Julia Buckingham Edelmann of Buckingham Interiors + Design says, “A chic dining room is no longer defined by an opulent crystal chandelier; instead make a statement with a one-of-a-kind piece.” Examples include a trio of pendant lamps, a rustic wood round holding frosted glass lights or a rainfall-like effect of crystals surrounding lights. “Unique lighting allows you to put your thinking-outside-the-box skills to work and serve as a conversation-starting focal point. Guests will appreciate your use of the unexpected to light their meal.” Add your new choice of lighting fixture above the dining room table. With portrait lights on the walls, and perhaps uplighting placed behind potted trees, the easy task of installing a dimmer switch will give you the option of different light intensity whenever you wish. 2) Choose a new paint palette. Jeanine Hays, an AphroChic design blogger says, “Move over white walls; in 2014 we’ll be seeing rooms with a lot more drama and glamour.” Dining room walls might finally get a makeover from their boring beige hue to stand out in deep navy blue, which style blogger Mark D. Sikes says is a big trend for 2014. “I’m seeing a lot of the shade on the runways, on the streets, in chic interiors.” While navy blue can sometimes look a bit country, gleaming metal fixtures and accessories (also a big trend) create more of a formal, modern and stylish look. Other popular shades for dining rooms include cranberry and eggplant for warmer tones, and, if you’d still prefer a neutral shade, slate gray and chocolate brown are topping the trends. 3) Chair rails and molding. Adding new chair rails and molding to the dining room adds an upscale finishing touch to the room, and may hide those lessthan-perfect paint lines where the
ceiling meets the wall. A chair rail also invites the trend of having one paint color above the rail and another color or wide paint color stripes below for creative flair. If you’re doing the project yourself, buy extra lengths of wood to allow for some inevitable miscuts and wood splits. It’s better to have extra than to have to go back to the lumber store. 4) Knock out a wall. According to Realtor Magazine’s recent Cost vs. Value Report, the average
return on investment for home remodel projects is 66.1 percent, and creating an open floor plan is one of the most requested features by new homebuyers. Even if you won’t put your house on the market any time soon, you may still want that open, airy arrangement. 5) Refresh with trendy furniture and accessories. Dining rooms have gotten more eclectic, which means you’re not limited to the all-matching dining room
chairs. Now a trend is to mix up chairs and benches or alternate chair fabrics and print patterns, place grander chairs at the heads of the table, and more creative pairings. A big trend is the rustic look, placing a rough-hewn wood table at the center of the room for a relaxed vibe in an otherwise formal dining room, creating an inviting gathering place. Alternatively, to add some glam styling to your dining room, think mirrors. Not
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just mirrors hung on the walls — although an oversize, ornate mirror instantly adds opulence to your dining room — but mirrored buffets or sideboards add drama to the room, especially when you place silver accessories such as candelabras and art pieces minimally on your dining room furniture. Supersize artwork is also a trend, and home stylists say that large artwork may be hung on the walls or even leaned against a wall.
PAGE 20 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2014
Six simple steps to winterizing family pool By ERIC CHRISTENSEN Creators.com Preparing your pool for the winter freeze might seem like a chore wrapped in a reminder that the time for vacations and backyard barbecues has passed. But if you properly winterize your pool, not only will your pool be easier to reopen later, but it will also prevent costly damage. \Tabatha Poling, vice president of service operations for Leslie’s Poolmart, Inc. has decades of experience, going back to Leslie’s first store. The first step is to balance the water chemistry by adjusting your pool’s alkalinity, pH, calcium hardness and chlorine to the proper levels. The trick, Poling says, is “to start working on that about a week before closing the pool, so they have time to test, purchase the chemicals, let them circulate, and retest.” This will also give you time to brush and vacuum the pool, removing any dirt or debris. The next step is to drain water out of places where, during winter, it can freeze and expand. Poling advises, “Lower the pool water level below the skimmer and return lines, to drain all of the water out of the plumbing.” This is usually about 18-inches below the tile line. Similarly, Poling says, “Remove the drain plugs from the pump housing, the filter tank and the heater. If the pool has an automatic pool cleaner with a booster pump, they’ll want to drain that, and they will want to take the drain plug out of the automatic chlorinator.” Poling suggests putting those plugs in the strainer basket of the pump, so you’ll know where to find them later. Once the water has drained out of the return lines, install winterizing plugs. If all the water has not been completely drained from your system, you risk causing a very expensive error. Expanding ice can cause cracks and leaks in underground plumbing. Repairs will require pool owners to tear up their concrete deck just to access the problem. Adding a bit of pool
antifreeze to the lines can serve as inexpensive insurance against freezing and expansion. Adding a gizzmo to your skimmer can also help relieve pressure from expanding ice. Third, turn off the power supply to all of your equipment. Remove the on and off trippers from the time clock. Forgetting this step can also lead to costly damage. A pump that runs with dry lines will burn out, requiring replacement. Next, Poling says, “Once the customer has drained those return lines and plugged those lines, refill the pool back up to 4 to 6
inches below the skimmer inlet in vinyl-lined pools or four to six inches below the tile line in plaster-lined pools.” While refilling the pool, remove any non-permanent items from the pool. Fifth, Poling recommends putting air pillows into the pool. Because these are only half-inflated, they also protect against ice expansion by taking pressure off the pool walls. Poling notes, “This is especially important in an above-ground pool, where it’s just a thin, steel wall.” Poling continues, “At that point, cover the pool. Use a winter cover held down by water bags or water-
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filled blocks.” Alternatively, a safety cover uses anchors sunk around the pool, providing for a tighter fit. The final step is winter maintenance. “Keep excessive water off of the cover,” Poling cautions. “If there is significant rain, and water accumulates on top of the cover, use a cover pump. It will drain that excess water off the cover. If too much water accumulates, it’ll pull that cover down into the pool.” This will harm your water’s balance, introduce dirt and debris into your pool, which can cause staining and raise water levels, which, if sig-
nificant, might freeze and damage tile or the skimmer. “The other thing is to maintain the water chemistry. Peel back the cover every couple weeks and make sure the pool looks good,” especially if you have a warm spell. The heat can change the chlorine and other chemical levels. Winterizing a pool is not a simple process, but pool owners can do it themselves, so long as they are careful and are willing to put in the time for regular maintenance. “If you follow these steps,” Poling says, “you’ll have a clean pool and a successful spring opening.”
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