July 2013 KERENG02406 www.travelandflavors.com
Serbia Unplugged
Thanjavur
The South Slavic heartland offers a dash of mystery and romance
Incas Glory Retold
Rediscovering the Chola Dynasty
A journey through the remnants of Inca Empire
Kashmir
Experiencing the ethereal lakes
Tirupati
The abode of Lord Venketeshwara
JACKFRUIT FIESTA
Taste over two hundred palatable dishes
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contents
Cover photo: Macchu Picchu, (a sunset view) an Incan archaeological site standing 2,430m above sea level
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cover story
Thanjavur, a trove of art & architecture Thanjavur is known as the city of temples. It is a place where history peeks at you from every nook and cranny. During the reign of the Cholas, Thanjavur rose to become a powerful empire with a rich art and architectural heritage and even today, the magnificence of the Chola heritage in Thanjavur continues to make visitors wonder
Serbia, a crossroad of European cultures
Coming into Serbia, the South Slavic heartland, you realise that you have entered a crossroads of civilisation. It appears to be a mysterious land with passionate people who cherish their long history with pride
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35 Incas glory retold
The ancient Inca Empire has always fascinated history buffs across the world. Today, all that exists of this great civilisation in the highlands of Peru are the ruins
Photo of the month 10 Travel News 12 Events Calendar 14 Unique Festivals 15 My shot 19 A rainy day at Kasauli 23
Kasauli is a peaceful hill station that offers you a break from the routine and a visit to the station refreshes one and all
Romance, adventure in everything and 26 everywhere in North Sikkim
In the column, Karnika E Yaswant takes you to the glories of Sikkim
Thus Spake the Shots: Dubai 30 Laitlum Valley, a bewitching mix of 32 landscapes, rivulets and gorges
Laitlum Valley may not be your quintessential tourist spot but coming here you might be lost for words
Enticing garden of colours and scents 40
The Keukenhof Tulip Garden with its stunning colours makes you stand and stare
Tirumala hill, the abode of 42 Lord Venketeshwara
Considered to be one of the world’s most visited pilgrimage centres, Tirupati attracts large crowds every year
After famine and extremism, 47 now Mizo people content
Suresh Joseph recalls his trip to Mizoram
59 Kashmir regales visitors with enchanting beauty
Known as ‘Paradise on earth’, Kashmir is indeed a mesmerising and alluring destination. With its snow capped mountains, floral wonders and the natural beauty of the lakes and rivers, Kashmir is truly a place that one cannot resist
67 Preserving flavors of the Mughal
Karim’s Hotel, preserving the flavors of the Mughals for a long time, is one of the most visited restaurants of India
70 Jack of all fruits
A treat awaits lovers of jackfruit at Urav in Wayanad with so many palatable dishes made of jackfruit
71 Through the looking glass
A look at the mysterious Theyyam, one of the oldest ritual dance forms of Kerala
75 S wyambhunath Stupa remains a symbol of Nepal
Swyambhhunath in Kathmandu is a place that represents the essence of the Buddha’s teachings
88 Wayanad Revisited
A look at some of the tribal villages of Wayanad and the way of life there
91 A unique cocktail of cultures
Goa charms all those who come here with exotic beaches and a blend of the modern and traditional
95 Get ready for rock ‘n’ roll
Punk Rock awaits those coming to Cologne in Germany in July with the Amphi festival
97 Into the Wild by Rathika Ramasamy 98 Expedition on foot, bicycle
For Rob Lilwall, everything is possible whether it is teaching geography or exploring the world on a bicycle
Volume 1 Issue 4 July 2013
Editor Ravi Deecee Head-Operations M Kumar Assistant Editor Dipin Damodharan Chief Copy Editor K S Rajagopal Senior Sub Editor Savithri Suresh Senior Reporters Lakshmi Narayanan Prashob K P Tony William Devika Venugopal Photo Journalist
Jose Jacob
Design & Layout Shyam P S Kailasnath Anil P John Web Manager S Sreenath ADVT SALES Senior Managers Kainakari Shibu Rajasree Varma Anu P M Biju P Alex Vijimon P B M K Haridas Vinod Joseph Rohil Kumar A B Managers Febin K Francis Siju Thomas MARKETING Sr Manager Sabu Varghese Mathew Assistant Managers Priya P A Mobin E Mathew Liju P John Abhilash G Krishnan
www.travelandflavors.com contributors
Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the world’s top 10 wildlife photgraphers
Suresh Joseph is a triple post graduate in Economics, Management and Industrial Relations. He has authored two books and presently he is a Consultant and Mentor based in Kochi, Kerala
Richi Mohanty is a post graduate in Industrial Designing. She is an ardent traveller and writer based in New Delhi
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Karnika E Yaswanth is a naturalist and is involved in several projects which seek to stop the destruction of natural habitat due to human negligence
Amit Kishor Subedi is an avid traveller and documentary film maker based in Pokhara, Nepal. He is involved in documentaries which promote art and culture in Nepal
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letter from the editor
T
ravel is not just about the destination whether it be the exotic party location or the quiet honeymoon spot. It can be about the journey itself. The human network you meet as you go along each place is indeed something worthy to speak of in itself. And as Tolkien rightly puts it, “not all those who wander are lost.” Travel can be about a journey back in time, to a city which gained its ground during the reign of a mighty empire. The Chola dynasty gained fame and power during the reign of the medieval Cholas when they established Thanjavur as their capital. They were well known for the promotion of art, architecture and entertainment in the city. Through our cover story, we take you to the land of the Cholas and the Great Living Chola Temples in the city namely the Brihadeeswara, the Airavatesvara, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Thirubhuvanam. The Inca Empire has been a setting for a number of swashbuckling exploration movies courtesy of Hollywood and a look at the famed ruins here tell us why they continue to fascinate people. The Incas ruled Peru during the 13th century and a look at the ruins of Moray, Isla Del Sol, Sacsayhuamán and Machu Picchu tell us why they are considered one of the mightiest empires of their time and that is what we have done through ‘Incas Glory Retold’. Serbia seems to be a nation straight out of a romance novel, with exotic country sides, and historic monuments that throw light on its cultural diversities. With a history stretching back to the Paleolithic era and its reputation as the gateway to the Balkans, Serbia is indeed at the crossroads of European Culture as you will find out on reading ‘Serbia, a crossroad of European cultures’. ‘Through the looking glass’ takes readers on a journey through North Kerala where Theyyam, one of the oldest ritual dance forms gains the spotlight. Theyyam is considered to be fiercesome and a mystery to those who experience it firsthand. The concept that the Theyyam artiste gets transformed into God during the performance is what makes the ritual dance form mysterious and magical at the same time. We know the Mughal Empire as the patrons of Islamic architecture but seldom do we give a thought to their contribution towards the vibrant Indian cuisine. Mughlai cuisine is popular for its rich, spicy melt in the mouth non-vegetarian dishes and Karim’s Hotel in Delhi has been serving lovers of Mughlai cuisine for almost 200 years. Join us as we take you to Karim’s Hotel through ‘Preserving flavors of the Mughals’.
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travel & flavors July 2013
photo of the month
No business as usual The lone survivor
An interlude in the rain: Oblivious to the downpour, a peanut vendor at Fort Kochi in Kerala is waiting for customers in an evening with little crowd on the street in dim wayside light. Heavy rains lashed the city and other parts of the state as well for many days after monsoon set in the state in early June
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TRAVEL NEWS
World Travel News Meetings Show from July 9
Sarajevo Film Festival from July 16
EXIT music and dance festival from July 10
Sarajevo: The Sarajevo Film Festival will begin in Sarajevo on July 16 and will conclude on July 24. The festival is expected to boost travel and tourism in the region and is basically aimed at the audience from the Balkan region. The festival recently has set up a German- funded organisation called the Sarajevo Talent Campus for emerging South-Sastern filmmakers.
London: The inaugural edition of the Meetings Show, a business conclave, will be launched at Olympia, London. The meeting will be a three-day event starting from July 9. It will have 5,000 participants from various business sectors of the United Kingdom and Europe.
Novi Sad: The annual EXIT Festival, one of Serbia’s most important music and dance festivals, will be held from July 10 to 14 at Novi Sad. The four-day festival will feature some of the most popular music and dance performers from across Europe.
International Conference on Religious Studies from July 15 Colombo: An International Conference on Religious Studies will be held in Colombo, Sri Lanka,fromJuly 15 and 16. The main focus of the conference is on analysis of religion and its theories and methods. The conference will also highlight the engagement of religion in science, politics and culture, and most importantly conflicts relating to the same. The conference will bring together leading experts in the field of theology and religion, academicians, scientists and researchers from across the globe.
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Hemingway Days Festival from July 17 Florida: The annual Hemingway Days Festival 2013 will take place in Key West, Florida, from July 17to 20. The festival will see a number of people walking down the streets wearing fake beards, barrel chests and loud voices. It is conducted annually in Key West as a tribute to the legendary writer Ernest Hemmingway.Key West is the place where the writer spent quality time during the 1930s.
World Travel Awards Gala ceremony on July 20 Peru: The World Travel Awards Gala ceremony for South and Central America will be held on July 20 in Peru. The event will include a gala dinner and show.
The red carpet event will take place at the ancient Huaca Pucllana temple in the heart of the city. The World Travel Awards was launched in 1993 so as to recognise excellence in the global travel and tourism industry.
National Tourism and Events Excellence Conference from July 22 Melbourne: The National Tourism and Events Excellence Conference will be held on July 22 - 23 in Melbourne, Australia. The two-day event is expected to promote the development of a sustainable and innovative tourism, and events industry in the nation and will see prominent spokespersons of the travel and tourism industry from Down Under attending the event.
International Academic Conference on Social Sciences from July 27 Istanbul: An International Academic Conference on Social Sciences will be held from July 27 to 28 in Istanbul, Turkey. The two-day conference mainly focuses on various researches done by professionals in the social sciences and provides a platform for academicians to present their research results. Experts in the field of social sciences across the globe are expected to attend the event.
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travel events
jULY Events Calendar Date Event Location July 3-31
Veranos de la Villa
Madrid, Spain
July 4-27 Lyric Festival Aix-en-Provence, France July 6-14
Fiesta de San Fermin
Pamplona, Spain
July 8-27 Festival d’Avignon Avignon, France July 9-14
International Musical Eisteddfod
Llangollen, Wales
July 10
Jagannath Rath Yatra
Puri, Odisha
July 11–13
Naadam
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
July 11-21
Ghent Festival
Ghent, Belgium
July 12-17
Marrakesh Popular Arts Festival
Marrakesh, Morocco
July 12–15
EXIT Festival
Novi Sad, Serbia
July 14 Bastille Day Paris, France July 15-21 Mwaka Kogwa Makunduchi, Zanzibar July 17 Gion Matsuri Kyoto, Japan July 17-20
Hemingway Days Festival
Key West, Florida, USA
July 19 Festa de Noantri Trastevere, Rome July 20-21
Festa del Redentore
Venice, Italy
July 21
Belgium’s National Day
Brussels, Belgium
July 21 The Proms London, England July 22 Guru Purnima India July 23
Guru Harkishan Jayanthi
Punjab, India
July 28
Beer Can Regatta
Darwin, Australia
July 25-28 Womad Wiltshire, England July 29
Fiesta de Santa Marta de Ribarteme
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Galicias, Spain
UNIQUE FESTIVALS
ntore
Festa Del Rede
Recalling redemption from plague
When: July 21 Where: Venice, Italy
T
Venice will be fully decked up for the festival which marks the redemption of people from the fatal plague in the 16th century
he Festival of the Redeemer or the Festa Del Redentore begins with the people decorating their boats and gondolas and the terraces of their homes from where they can watch the display of fireworks. At sunset, Saint Mark’s basin brings together a lot of gondolas and boats, and thousands of people gather to witness a fireworks display which begins at around 10 pm on Saturday and lasts almost an hour. It is truly one of the most important aspects of the
festival held in Venice on third Sunday of July. After the fireworks, people head to Lido and wait for dawn. Sunday is entirely devoted to religious ceremonies and prayer expressing gratitude to the redeemer for rescuing the people from the deadly plague centuries back. Between the years 1575 and 1577, Venice was in utter chaos due to a terrible plague outbreak which killed nearly half of Venice’s population. The people of the city held a desperate prayer to the Lord to free them
from the evil that had befallen them. The Doge Alvise I Mocenigo promised to build a magnificent church if they were ever freed from the mess. After 1577, when the epidemic situation subsided, work began on the church under the leadership of Andrea Palladio. The shrine was built on the Island of Giudecca. The church was initially a small wooden structure along with a temporary bridge of barges but later, the church took its existing shape. This year, the festival falls on July 21.
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UNIQUE FESTIVALS
Santa La Fiesta de arteme Marta de Rib When: July 29 Where: Las Nieves Galicia, Spain
A festival to celebrate near death experience Have you ever heard of a festival that celebrates near death experience of people? Well, that’s what Las Nieves does and if you come to this little town in Spain, you will see such a festival with the active participation of the church 16 travel & flavors
July 2013
H
eld on July 29, the Festival of near Death Experience or La Fiesta de Santa Marta de Ribarteme as it is known, celebrates near death experiences and those who’ve gone through it have a day to be treated as celebrities. Las Nieves is a little town located in North West Spain, a region where pagan rites have been a part of local culture since time immemorial. Although the Catholic Church has desperately tried to instill their teachings in this region, belief in the occult and the supernatural is still a
part of their life. On the festival day, the persons who have cheated death in the last year are placed in coffins and paraded through the town. The festival honouring St Marta de Ribarteme, the patron saint of resurrection, attracts a large number of people to the town. The streets of Las Nieves are jam packed with believers and curious onlookers by 10 in the morning and the coffins carrying the survivors of death arrive at the local church, flanked by their relatives. A special mass begins at noon and is broadcast all around the church
for the sake of the listening crowds. After the mass, the death survivors are taken in their coffins to the cemetery located on a hill and brought back in processions. Towards the end of the procession, the coffins circle around the church and the crowds begin a traditional chant in honour of Santa Marta whose statue is brought out and paraded around the coffins. The ceremony ends with the believers chanting in praise of Santa Marta and a declaration that the death survivors have been brought to the patron of resurrection herself.
a
Rath Yatr
When: July 10-17 Where: Puri, Odisha
A chariot procession seeking sanctity, salvation The temple town of Puri would be in a festive spirit during the seven days of high-voltage Rath Yatra. The high point of the festival is participating in the chariot procession and getting a glimpse of Lord Jagannath
T
hree huge chariots amidst a vast crowd waiting to catch a glimpse of the idols in an atmosphere of intense religious fervour, this is the sight awaiting a visitor to the Rath Yatra from July 10 to 17 at the Puri Jagannath Temple in Puri, Odisha, every year. The atmosphere is festive but is also steeped in devotion as devotees believe that catching a glimpse of any of the three idols in the chariots will allow them to attain moksha. According to the popular belief, Lord Jagannath, the Lord of the universe, comes out of his sanctum sanctorum to meet his devotees and those
taking part in the pulling of the chariot are blessed. The festival officially begins on the day of the Snana Yatra in which the idols representing the three deities- Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Goddess Subhadra- are given a ritualistic bath on an open platform called the Snana Bedi. After the ritual, the temple remains closed for 15 days. On the 16th day, the temple is reopened and the idols are taken out of the temple in a colourful procession beginning a week long procession and festivities. As the huge procession follows the path of the chariots, devotees sing songs and dance around the
chariots, adding more colour to the festival. The chariots are quite strapping with a height of 45 ft and pulling these huge chariots is no easy task. Every year, these chariots are built anew using only phasshi or dhausa wood. The colourful chariots are drawn by the devotees to Gundicha Temple, two miles north of the Puri Jagannath Temple. On the way back, the chariots are stopped for some time near the Mausi Maa Temple for an offering of the Poda Pitha, a special pancake believed to be Lord Jagananth’s favourite delicacy. After seven days, the deities are taken back to the temple on July 17.
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UNIQUE FESTIVALS
San Fermin When: July 7-14 Where: Pamplona, Spain
C
Running with the bulls is the main event of the weeklong San Fermin festival in Spain. Like other festivals in the country, it is also adventurous and demonstrates machismo
Exhibiting machismo of Spaniards 18 travel & flavors
July 2013
olourful processions, bizarre rituals and unique traditions are what a person coming to Spain during any festival season witnesses. The most famous of all the festivals in Spain is the San Fermin, immortalised by the infamous suicidal running with the bulls. No matter how dangerous it looks, San Fermin continues to draw audiences from across the globe every year. The biggest attraction of the entire festival week is the San Fermin procession on July 7. Thousands of people, including entertainers, political and religious authorities,will participate in the procession with the statue
of Saint Fermin through the old part of Pamplona. A traditional dance called Jota is performed for the patron saint and the procession includes giant Paper Mache puppet like figures twirling and dancing on the street. One of the biggest attractions of the seven-day festival is the running of the bulls which is believed to have its origin from the legends relating to Saint Fermin’s death. The Bull Run is a daily event which sees thousands of people participating in it. The event begins at 8 am when a rocket is fired indicating that the corral gate is open and a second rocket fired indicates that the bulls have been released and are on the
streets. Two rockets are fired at the end of the fest indicating that the bulls have been shepherded into the gates again. In case of danger, a set of wooden or iron barricades are erected to direct bulls along the right route and also allow a runner to exit quickly. According to the legend, Patron Saint Fermin of Pamplona was the son of a high ranking Roman official who was later baptized by a priest called Saturnin. After being ordained a priest, he returned to Pamplona but died under mysterious circumstances. Thefestival lasts a week from July 7 to 14 and its inauguration is marked by firing of a rocket called ‘chupinazo’ at 12 noon on July 6.
Sreejith S is a Food & Beverage Manager based in Kerala.
A BALANCING ACT: A mother along with her son rowing a boat in the backwaters of Kerala, on the way to school in Karumadi the other day
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ETHEREAL BEAUTY: The Cathedral cove, one of New Zealand’s best tourist destinations, is named after the cave located there, linking Mare’s Leg Cove to Cathedral Cove
Anoop Alukka is a chef based in Auckland, New Zealand Jees John based in Ernakulam works as a marketing professional
20 travel & flavors
LONE RANGER: A foreign tourist riding a motorbike near the Munnar Mattupetti dam. Munnar is one of the most sought-after tourist destinations in Kerala
July 2013
Midhun Raj U R is a sub editor with the Times of India, Hyderabad
Shyju Chacko is a Catholic priest. He is an avid traveller and photographer
MISTY MORNING: A misty morning at Gudalur, a valley on the way from Mysore to Ooty with a population of 32,605 (1991 census). It is a gateway to three states, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka, lying equidistant from both Kerala and Karnataka.
AVIAN WONDER: A scene from Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in Rajasthan. This avi fauna sanctuary is home to thousands of rare and highly endangered birds such as Siberian Crane.
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Amal Dev is doing his hospitality studies at NZMA, New Zealand.
IN ALL ITS GLORY: Two electrical posts standing against the backdrop of the glowing horizon at Mt. Roskill, Auckland, New Zealand.
Send us your pictures and tell us the stories behind them. email: editorial@dcmediacorp.com
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July 2013
travel blog kasauli
A rainy day at
Kasauli Richi Mohanty Photos: Rajesh R
I
t was a three-day weekend with Eid feast in college on Monday. But wasting Saturday and Sunday awaiting the feast would have been a tragedy. So we devised a plan to get out of Delhi, not somewhere too far and out of reach, thus the place, Kasauli. Kasauli is just 7-8 hours away from Delhi by car (Depends on how many stops you make), an easy to reach place by road. It is a Cantonment town established as a colonial hill station with moderate climate. The best way to get there is a car ride
either from Shimla (77 km) or Chandigarh (65km). To Shimla and Chandigarh, one may use the Indian Railways. Don’t go for a stay in Kasauli as unlike other places, the local rooms are more expensive than the comfortable Home Stay facility there or even the good hotel rooms in the town. One can visit Kasauli any time except November-February when the temperature goes down to 1 o C. We visited the place in August. We left Delhi at 4 in
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the afternoon and arrived in Kasauli at night. The whole of Kasauli was booked beyond our imagination. So we went knocking on doors, asking for rooms or any space to sleep. We finally halted at a lodge with a lone family room free. Thus, we had a room to dump our bags and ourselves since we were dog tired. (The room literally was a dump room.) The next day was somewhat decided with us having done our homework as to what all to cover. The Baptist Church with its niche colonial architectural language; the Kasauli Brewery, one of the oldest Scotch-Whisky distilleries in Asia and the Monkey Point, originally named Mankey Point after the name of the priest in the temple on the hill top on the Air Force Base premises. (Photo Identity cards are a must to enter the premises while mobile phones and cameras are not allowed). Obviously, our morning started at 10 only after the gruelling night.By the time we left the hotel, it was time for lunch. The walk from the room to the car gave enough time for a light drizzle to creep up on our day. But our plan continued and the next stop was the Mall Road with some place to eat, where we devoured delicious authentic Tibetan chicken momos and thukpa along with regular south Indian brunch. As we started walking around, a light drizzle followed by downpour changed the game. So we scurried to buy colourful umbrellas. Must haves in Kasauli for monsoon season are umbrella or raincoat, slippers/floaters and a cover for your camera if you are
carrying any. In the process of looking for shelter from rain, we landed in the Baptist Church where the mass had started. The church was stunningly beautiful in the candle light and the peaceful ambience welcome as and we spent a long time exploring the church grounds. When the rain finally took a break, we decided to visit the Monkey Point and the brewery. The Monkey Point was the most breath-taking moment of the entire visit. The view was fabulous but that was not breath-taking, it was the climb that actually took our breath away and we felt like old people. After the formalities, we began the walk which was well interrupted by a long break for Maggi and coffee. We started the walk up which was as I said breath-taking and also it felt as if we were walking into the clouds and could feel water droplets all around us. But the view from the top was worth all the effort. Eventually, the rain took a longer break and we left for the brewery. The rain had painted the entire place with a shade of green. As we walked up the upper Mall Road looking at the place, we noticed how beautiful the place was and all of this just because of rain. After a long walk, tired, we planned our return immediately and started our long drive back. The place was beautiful and great for a day visit. A weekend well spent would be my take for the entire trip. Hope you also enjoy the place and please do heed to the advice of booking a place before you embark on.
Travel Tip
Walking gives you the real insight into a place, so please feel free to walk along the Mall Road and indulge in the food they offer
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July 2013
The altar at the Baptist Church in Kasauli
When the rain finally took a break, we decided to visit the Monkey Point and the brewery. Our visit to The Monkey Point was the most breath-taking moment of our trip July 2013 travel & flavors
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Key destinations north sikkim
Romance and adventure in
North Sikkim Karnika E Yaswant
THE LIFELINE: Autorickshaws are the preferred transport mode for the people in the Gangtok Valley
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W
henever I’m lonely, I think of Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim state and the largest city in the state. A view of the city, situated on the Sivalik hills of the eastern Himalayas at a height of 1,437 metres, rests one’s troubled soul and weary body. North Sikkim is an enchanting place. Everything here makes you think of romance and adventure. The title “Queen of the Mountains” has been conferred on this mighty Kanchanjunga. Its snow-capped peaks are fashioned by nature in such a way that it seems as if Mother Nature has
created the heaven on Earth. The heavenly sights of the mountain and its surroundings are a sight to behold. Kanchanjunga is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, and a favourite spot for trekking. In May, the entire valley explodes into a riot of colours. We arrived at the Bagdogra airport from Chennai in the same month. Yumthang is our first destination, a scenic
valley amidst the mountains of North Sikkim, 135 km from Gangtok. Nurtured by the rhododendrons and plenty of unknown trees of various species, this place is considered the garden of heaven. At the base of Yumthang Valley is the picturesque hamlet called Lachung, 25 km from Yumthang. On the way, we stopped for photo shoots at the Seven Sisters Cascade and the Lachung Monastery. We
spent the night at Lachung, and travelled at the break of dawn the next morning. Steeped in holiness, the Tsomgo Lake in Sikkim is a popular tourist’s destination. Nestled on Gangtok Nathu La Highway, the lake is at an altitude of 12,400 ft. Pilgrims come here to worship the lake. The beautiful surroundings of the peaceful lake add more charm to it. Placid water, cool breeze and picturesque location make
it an ideal picnic spot. The lake is held in high esteem by both the Hindus and the Buddhists. Also known as Changu Lake, it is 1 km in length and 15 m in width and is oval in shape. There is a beautiful temple near the lake. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. I sat in the resting shed at the lake and scanned its beauty. During winter season, the water turns into ice giving a different persona to the lake.
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Located in the restricted area, Tsomgo Lake can be visited only after obtaining Inner Line Permit from the police through the Tourism Department or travel agents. The best time to visit the lake is March-May and OctoberDecember. When you plan to make your trip to Sikkim, do remember to visit this wonderful destination. The place is a paradise for bird lovers with a large number of blue whistling thrush, redstarts and fork tails around. It hosts a number of migratory birds,
prominent among them is the Brahminy ducks. The melting snow from the mountains surrounding the lake is the source of water for this lake. Togo Lake gives birth to a river called Lunette Chu which meets the river Rangpochu further down its way. It is said that Lamas used to make predictions about their future by studying the colour of the lake. The dark colour of the lake used to indicate problems in future while light colour reflected peace and happiness. If fortune favours you, then you can even see a colourful rainbow here. The drive to Yumthang was delightful as the orchids and rhododendrons accompanied us to the garden of heaven. The flowers are in full bloom in April-May, but winters also provide a spectacular view of the
Tsomgo Lake creates a serene ambience that tourists would love to bask in.
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snow covered mountains. Once in Yumthang, we first stopped at Zero Point (The end point of the national highway in Gangtok), where all roads come to an end and the paradise begins. It also houses innumerable rivulets which feed river Teesta. Coming back, we took a soothing dip in the holy hot springs of Yumthang, famous for their curative power. Next we visited Rumtek Monastery, following meandering roads through emerald green rice terraces. It is the main monastery of Kagyud or ‘Black Hat’ sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Built in 1959 by the 16th Reincarnated Gyalwa Karmapa, it is a replica of Tsurphu Monastery from the Kham region of Tibet.
In the Himalayan Zoological Park, one can find spotted deer, red pandas, masked palm civet, Tibetan wolf, leopard cat, snow leopard, barking deer and Himalayan Black Bear. The safari ex Gangtok is in a restricted area of natural vegetation, hence it requires a permit. Usually, the travel agencies get it for you, but make sure to check the permit before booking the package. April-May usually promises colourful flowers but winters are generally snowy. Next on our travel list is the Government Institute of Cottage Industries (GICI), which produces crafts in authentic Sikkimese designs. The patterns of hand woven Tibetan carpets sprout dragons in natural dyes, Sikkimese-style tables called Choktse are awe-inspiring. They are expertly carved and coloured in red and gold. We also explored Lal Bazaar and enjoyed the melody of colours. We saw various ethnic groups from different villages haggling over their wares. There are 1-2 nights all inclusive Yumthang Valley packages operated by various travel agencies in Gangtok. You just need to bargain while booking. Hike or ride, you will find Gangtok has ecology balance, friendly people, and energising sites, all laid up like a waiting banquet.
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thus spake the shots desert safari
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ou scream as your SUV dangles in the air and even before you come to your senses you dash to the next dune. Honey Singh’s Punjabi rap blasts in your ears as the expert driver battles the sand dunes. The sun slowly sets revealing the secrets of the desert which seems endless. One thing which you do not want to miss when you are in Dubai is the desert safari. Arabian music fills the atmosphere as you reach the desert camp. Situated in the middle of the desert, the camp is a great place to stretch your legs after the adrenaline filled journey. Desert safaris unravel the arduous journey through the Middle East desert in the past when travellers moved through the desert in caravans. There were desert camps providing shelter and food for the tired travellers and camels. The vivacious movements of the belly dancers and sumptuous Arabian food complete your best Arabian experience.
Photos & Text
Jose Jacob
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BAshING THE DUNES Photos & Text Jose Jacob July 2013 travel & flavors
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in search of soltitude laitlum valley
Laitlum Valley, a bewitching mix of landscapes, rivulets and gorges Laitlum Valley in Meghalaya endowed with a striking natural beauty is home to gorgeous landscapes. Such is its charm that the British called it ‘Scotland of the East’ Deepak Singh
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mong the many picturesque sites, this small green state with the Laitlum gorges or Laitlum Canyons is certainly prominent. Laitlum is translated as ‘end of hills’. And rightly so because at Laitlum, there are no hills beyond, all one can see are stairways down the valley. Though this unique place does not find much mention in the usual tourists’ guide, it is one of the most visited places in Meghalaya. About 25 km from Meghalaya’s capital, Shillong, the vast and gorgeous valley of Laitlum is nothing but surreal. Situated under the Mawkynrew block in East Khasi Hills, it is about 45 minutes drive from the main city. Be sure to mention the name of a place called Smit to reach here, because Laitlum is just 8-10 km from Smit. For first timers, it is advisable to have a guide or a friend who has previously visited the place along, since it’s tricky to find. And the local taxis that one can catch from Shillong, don’t count on them! Chances are many don’t know this place even if they have visited it. Worse so, the
GPS too may not be useful to find this valley because it is off the map! Once atop Laitlum Canyon, one is greeted with a view of the valleys and the small hamlet Rasong, deep below the gorge. Rasong nestled amidst nature’s cradle in all its beauty on the lush green ridges of the Laitlum gorge. The hamlet has about 300 residents, a church, a playground and a school. The people of Rasong village rely on a rope way pulley to transport their goods down to the valley and vice versa. In this much developed and fast paced era, this part of the world seems to have been forgotten. In fact, this is the only place in the state or even in the country where a ropeway is used for transportation of food grains and essential commodities. One can barely imagine what would be the fate of the residents of Rasong village if the ropeway pulley is out of order. Unfortunately, this happens and sometimes it takes days to be repaired. On such days, sights of men, women, children and elders carrying traditional bamboo baskets filled with all sorts of stuff walking up the 600-foot plus steep slope are common. The main cash crop of this hamlet is broom plant which they use to make the traditional brooms and sell it in the market all the way in Shillong! Incidentally, there is also a small rivulet that passes along the outer edge of the village. This
The King’s House at Smit Right: The pulley machine which connects the valley with the rest of Shillong. The ropeway is used for transportation of foodgrains and essential commodities from the market.
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In fact, this is the only place in the state or even in the country where a ropeway is used for transportation of food grains and essential commodities. One can barely imagine what would be the fate of the residents of Rasong village if the ropeway pulley is out of order
is the only water source in the village. The place is nothing less than an enticing playground for those with a passion for trekking. Trekkers visit the place often. During summer, afternoon can be hot and humid and in winter, after 2 pm, thick fog blurs the vision and during monsoon, the place is perfectly romantic with the weather changing in a matter of minutes, from bright and clear
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to suddenly getting engulfed in mist, reducing visibility to almost nil. While reaching the place itself is hard enough, many tourists would be disappointed to learn that there aren’t any places to rest or eat or even quench thirst. Visitors need to carry their own food and drinking water if they have any plans to spend the whole day in the valley. For those
who do forget to pack their lunch, help is provided by a lone shop at the entrance to the vast plain that suddenly disappears, giving way to the magnificent view of the valley. The shopkeeper there, at best, may provide one with the ever delicious Maggi! Well, the shop also has some biscuits and a few snacks. If you are in Shillong, don’t miss this place!
Laitlum Valley on a sunny day
EXPLORING THE PAST INCA EMPIRE
Incas glory retold Lakshmi Narayanan
The Inca Empire has always been an enigma to historians. The largest empire in PreColumbian America, the empire was believed to have existed from 1438 to 1533. A visit to the remains of the Incan civilisation is worthwhile and you will be literally awed by the mastery of the South American geniuses
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he Inca Empire is hailed by historians for its sheer diversity which includes a vast land area and spectacular structures. One of the great civilisations of recorded history, the Inca is known for its military might and administrative excellence. The empire consists of a large portion of western South America, centered on the Andean mountain ranges, Peru, large parts of modern day Ecuador, western and South Central Bolivia, northwestern Argentina, North and Central Chile, and a small part of southern Colombia. All July 2013 travel & flavors
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these sites have the remnants of monuments which represent the culture and lifestyle of the Incas. A person planning to come to the land of the Incas because he would probably be wondering where to start! Moray could be an ideal place to begin the Incan expedition.
Moray
There are no motor vehicles and paved roads on Isla Del Sol. So getting there will literally be an uphill task for travelers. This island consists of many villages which altogether have nearly 800 families
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The journey to Moray starts from Peru. A unique archaeological site, Moray is situated approximately 50 km northwest of Cuzco. Perched atop a high plateau at about 11,500 ft and just west of the village of Mara, Moray is a site spreading across hundreds of kilometers and contains a number of terraced circular depressions, the largest of which is nearly 98 ft deep. The terrains were used to calculate the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. There is a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C (27 °F) between the top and bottom of the depressions. Historians have come to the conclusion that Moray was a spot for agricultural experiments. It is difficult for a normal camera lens to capture Moray in a single shot because the area is quite vast. There are around 17 layers of terraces in Moray, constructed using stones. The stone remains intact even today but the muddy areas have all gone
as a result of geological changes over centuries. The collapse of the eastern side of a principal circle in February 2010 caused concerns over the longevity of the site as a prime tourist attraction in Peru. A temporary wooden support structure was erected to prevent further collapse and reconstruction work was begun for the damaged areas. Three enormous pits, each with beautifully curved sides that lead down the interior of titanic flowerpot like structures have been carved out of the earth and the depth of the structures is approximately 100 ft. Every year, thousands of tourists visit this attractive site to know more about the Incans and also to revel in the natural beauty of the country. Those who come here would wonder how agricultural practices were carried out in this area for the entire empire.
Isla Del Sol
The next stop during the Inca journey would arguably be Isla Del Sol, the ‘Island of the sun’. Today, the island is part of Bolivia and is also part of the La Paz Department. Geographically, it is a harsh, rocky terrain and is surrounded by rough hilly lands and eucalyptus trees. What makes this island unique is that it is completely protected by nature. There are no motor vehicles
Top left: The Incan agricultural site at Moray, Peru Top right: Inca ruins at Isla del Sol Bottom: Stone walls at Sacsayhuaman, Cusco
and paved roads on the island. So getting there will literally be an uphill task for travelers. This island consists of many villages which altogether have nearly 800 families. Over 80 Inca ruins are located in Isla Del Sol. Highlands with agricultural terraces, the Sacred Rock, labyrinth-like buildings called Chicana, Kasa Pata, and Pilco Kaima point to the magnificence and the might of the Incas. Among the most impressive sights are the labyrinth-like structure of Chincana and the sacred Titi Khar’ka-Rock of the Puma- which gave the lake its name. According to the Incan myth, the Sun God was born here.
Sacsayhuamán
Sacsayhuamán is the third destination. Situated in the city of Cusco, Peru, the site is a walled complex high above the city and was the location of a thrilling novel by Australian writer Mathew Reilly. The imperial city, Cusco, was laid out in the form of a puma, an animal that symbolised the Incas and Sacsayhuamán was also constructed in the way. The belly of the puma was the main plaza. The river flowing
through this region, Tullumayo, was considered its spine and the hill of Sacsayhuamán was its head. It is suggested that the zigzagging walls represent the teeth of the puma. There are three parallel walls built at different levels with lime stones of enormous sizes. Located on a steep hill that overlooks the city, it has an impressive view of the valley to the southeast. The potteries excavated at Sacsayhuamán indicate that the earliest occupation of the hill dates back to at least a millennium.
Machu Picchu
Among the Inca sites of Peru, Machu Picchu is more familiar to travelers as it is a favourite shooting location for films. It is also one of the most beautiful Inca ruins. It was rediscovered in 1911 by Hawaiian historian Hiram after centuries of obscurity and is believed to be the “Lost City of Incas”. Peru celebrated the 100th year of Machu Picchu’s rediscovery in 2011. In 1981, Machu Picchu was declared a historical sanctuary and in 1983, it was declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Now, the site is one of the July 2013 travel & flavors
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“New Seven Wonders of the World”. This city was abandoned less than 100 years after its construction following the Spanish Conquest. It is also likely that most of its population died from smallpox. The long and huge stone steps and other building parts in the picturesque background of the verdant forest and meadows tell about the glorious days of the Machu Picchu city.
Choquequirao
Choquequirao, often known as the ‘cradle of gold’ is located on the border of Cuzco and Apurimac. It is also known as the Machu Picchu’s sister city and is located nearly 10,120 feet above sea level. This structure seems to be the ruins of an ancient structure built by Tupac Inca Yupanqui (1471-1493) and Huayna Capac (1493-1527). The structure is in a staircase configuration made of 180 terraces providing a spectacular view to visitors. This site was discovered in early 1700s. We can also see the living areas and houses of aristocrats of the time. The outer edge of the site has the living quarters of the common people. There are water channels, aqueducts and water springs. Most buildings are well-restored and restoration works continue. As Choquequirao is really a large area without traffic, visitors can go around the entire region on foot or horseback. Trekking facility is also available here for the travelers. As you step away from the mesmerising world of the ancient Incas, you are drawn by a kind of magical power. Each ruin has a story to tell about the mighty Incans who ruled a vast area of South America centuries ago. No doubt, a visitor to the land of the ancient Inca Empire will be awestruck.
How to reach there
Nearest airports are Rodríguez Ballón International Airport, Arequipa and Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport, Cusco.
Other attractions
Ancient Inca ruins in Machu Picchu, Peru
Paracas national reserve Huaca Puccllana Museum of the nation Lacro Museum Cathedral of Lima Monastery of San Francisco, Lima Plaza mayor, Lima Tambomachay Huaca de la Luna Pikillacta Peru Las Baulas National Marine Park Costa Rica July 2013 travel & flavors
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floral fantasy Keukenhof Gardens
ENTICING GARDeN OF COLOURS, SCENTS It is a world of stunning colours and the scent of blossoming flowers all around you. Once you enter the Keukenhof Gardens in Netherlands, you might just stand and stare Lakshmi Narayanan
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Events at Keukenhof
March : Tulip Show March : Birds of Prey Show March : The Easter Bunny April : Dutch Folklore Festival April : Flower Parade April : Typically British May : Sailor Choirs Festival May : Barrel Organ Festival
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floral carpet stretching over 79 acres of land makes the Keukenhof Tulip Gardens of Amsterdam, Netherlands, the world’s largest flower garden. Springtime is the best time to visit this lovely land of flowers. Yearly, more than 800,000 flower lovers visit this meandering, wooded garden to soak up the blaze of colours that envelop the park, its
greenhouses, brooks, shady ponds and winding paths. The Keukenhof Tulip Gardens is an ideal combination of nature’s touch and artificial precision which has created a wonderful spectacle Earth. The spellbinding view of more than seven million of tulips along with narcissi, daffodils, hyacinths and bluebells will engross you so much that you might have to pinch
yourself to make sure you’re not dreaming. Keukenhof is one of Netherland’s top attractions and is also known as the “Garden of Europe”. It welcomes visitors with themed pavilions, floral mosaics, a treasure hunt for kids and much more. The garden used to host a traditional costume show, the fabulous annual Flower Parade and plenty of special events during Easter
weekend. Established in 1949, Keukenof Gardens is located in South Netherlands in the small town of Lisse, southwest of Amsterdam. It is accessible by bus from train stations in Haarlem, Leiden and Schiphol. March-May is the best time to visit this floral paradise although it is always a sought-after destination throughout the year.
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Road to Sanctity tirupati
Tirumala hill, the abode of
Lord Venketeshwara Tirumala Venketeshwara Temple is one of the richest temples in the country. The temple’s asset is estimated at a whopping Rs 50,000 crore and 50,000 to 100,000 devotees are visiting the hill shrine daily. Celebrities, political leaders, businessmen and even diplomats are among the regular visitors of the Tirumala Temple in Andhra Pradesh Savithri Suresh
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A
visit to the temple town of Tirupati is indeed an opportunity of a lifetime. The Tirumala hill comprising seven peaks, each representing a head of Adisesha is nearly 850 m above the sea level. The seven peaks are called Seshadri, Neeladri, Garudadri, Anjanadri, Vrushabhadri, Narayanadri and Venkatadri and it is on the seventh hill that Tirumala Temple is located. It is also known as ‘the temple of seven hills’. Located on the southern bank of Sri Awanu Pushkarini, a holy water tank, the entire complex consists of the old temple building with a number of modern queue and pilgrims’ lodging sites. Tirumala Temple is the richest pilgrimage centre in the county after the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Kerala, with an asset of more than Rs 50,000 crore and is also one of the most visited places of worship in the world with nearly 50,000 to 100,000 visitors daily. Electronics gadgets are strictly prohibited in the temple complex and pilgrims have to surrender them before entering the sacred abode of Lord
Top right: Devotees offering prayers at the outer walls of the temple Bottom: The temple pond
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Evidences from the sacred texts of Hindus give testimony to the fact that Tirumala was an important pilgrimage centre since the ancient times. Scriptures like the Venkatachala Mahatmya and the Varaha Purana give details about the Lord’s manifestation at Tirumala Tirumala Temple premises is well planned to receive thousands of devotees every day. The temple authorities ensure each and every devotee makes ‘darshan’ within the stipulated time
Vishnu. You might be staggered by the sheer size of the crowd. Legends associated with the temple state that it has been a sacred destination in all four yugas in the Hindu mythology and was known by various names . Sacred Hindu texts are a testimony that Tirumala has been an important pilgrimage centre since the ancient times. Scriptures like Venkatachala Mahatmya and Varaha Purana give details about the Lord’s manifestation at Tirumala. The Varaha Purana talks of Lord Visnu’s manifestation in the form of Adi Varaha on the western bank of the Swami Pushkarini and in his pure form on the southern bank of the river. The folklores relating to the temple also talk about various sightings of the Lord on the seven hills. The temple was built following the sightings. Another legend talks about a stone idol of Lord Venketeshwara which is believed to remain in the temple till the end of the present Kali Yuga. All the great dynasties of the south from the Pallavas of Kancheepuram, the Cholas of Thanjavur, the Pandyas of Madurai and the kingdom of Vijayanagar have paid homage to the temple and have competed with one another in endowing the temple with rich offerings and contributions. During the rule of the Vijayanagar dynasty, contributions and endowments to the temple increased and Krishnadeva Raya had statues of himself and his consorts installed at the temple portals and they can be seen even today. After the fall of the Hindu kingdoms, the Muslim rulers of Karnataka and the British took over the control and protection of the temple until 1843 when the East India Company interfered and appointed Sri Seva Dossiji of the Hatiramiji Math to administer the temple till 1933 when the Madras Legislature appointed a committee for the same.
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There are tales about the construction of the temple. The vimanam, a monumental tower with a golden roof, is an attractive feature of the temple. The main deity of the temple remains under a dome and is said to be self manifested because no human has ever been recorded to have installed it in the shrine. The temple has its origins in Vaishanvism which advocates the principles of love and equality. Long queues, security checks and crowds might make you want to run out of the place but all these things are worth the wait once you enter the main complex and catch a glimpse of the deity. From the Tirumamani Mandapam, one can enter the Golden Entrance to get the sanctum sanctorum. Two tall copper images of Jaya and Vijaya, the dwarapalakas of Lord Vishnu, adorn either side of the door. The thick wooden door is adorned with gilt paltes depicting the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu. Devotees are not allowed beyond the Kulashekhara path in the sanctum sanctorum. From there, one can see the shrine dedicated to Ramanuja, the architect of the temple. He was also responsible for the management of the worship procedures and other affairs of the temple. The shrine dedicated to him was built around the 13th century and overlooks the west end of the Tirumamani Mandapam. Devotees can avail the world famous Tirupati Laddoo as prasadam. The Tirupati Trust has taken geographical indication of the prasadam and that the same cannot be prepared by another person. Other prasadams include curd rice, tamarind rice, sweet pongal, sweets like Jelebi and kesari. Motor vehicles are available for those coming to the temple to make their mobility in and around the region more convenient. Free meals are available for pilgrims. On Thursdays, the
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A PROMISE WE KEEP:Devotees at the temple after the hair tonsuring
Tirupavadau seva, in which food is kept as an offering to the Lord, is conducted. Hair tonsuring is one the most popular rituals at the temple and the amount of hair collected here daily is over a ton. The hair gathered is sold every year through public auctions to international buyers who use it for hair extension and cosmetic surgery. The income that the temple receives from hair tonsuring alone amounts to approximately $ 6 million. Legends state that when Lord Balaji was hit on the head by a shepherd, a portion of his head became bald. Neela Devi, a Gandharva princess, was saddened by it and shaved off her hair so that he would be able to cover his blemish. The Lord was touched by the sacrifice and promised the princess that all the devotees who come to his abode shave off their hair and contribute it to the princess. One of the seven
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hills, Neeladri, has been named after her. The hundi is another feature of the temple. According to the legend, the Lord had to make arrangements for his wedding and sought the assistance of Lord Kubera who credited money to Lord Venketeshwara. Devotees go to Tirupati to donate money in the hundi so that the Lord can pay back his loan. The hundi collection goes as high as 22.5 million a day. Devotees also offer gold as a token of love for the Lord. Thulabharam is another ritual at the temple. A devotee sits on a weighing balance and the other pan is filled with materials greater than the person’s weight. Devotees usually offer sugar, jaggery, basil leaves, banana etc. When a devotee steps out of the temple after paying obeisance to Lord Venketeshwara, he would have peace of mind and satisfaction.
During the rule of the Vijayanagar dynasty, contributions and endowments to the temple increased and Krishnadeva Raya had statues of himself and his consorts installed at the temple portals
north east india a driving experience
Mizo people
After famine and extremism, now
content
Suresh Joseph
DAY 1- Silchar to Aizawl I drove to Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram, from Silchar. The conditions on the highway were predictable–just awful. Lailapur is the last post on the Assam side. There I had to enter details of my vehicle at the police checkpost and had to repeat that exercise at Vairengate where they also stamped the Inner Line Pass of Mizoram. A short distance from the Mizoram border, there was a Counter Insurgency and Jungle Warfare School set up by the Indian Army. The CIJW was originally established in 1967 at Mynkre near Jowai
in Meghalaya as a jungle training school. It was relocated to Vairengate in 1970. It specialises in unconventional warfare, especially guerrilla warfare, and has quickly developed a reputation as one of the premier counter-insurgency military training institutions in the world; its motto is “fight a guerrilla like a guerrilla�. The road was good from the Mizoram border to Kolasib. Thereafter, conditions deteriorated and it became really bad on the road to Sairang, where I had an accident. Just before Kawnpui, a motorcyclist took a longer loop to negotiate a curve and, blinded by bright
sunlight, I hit the bike. There were a few huts by the side of the road and I, used to every passerby in Kerala having his own opinion about each and every incident, expected the residents to pour out of their homes to see what had happened. To my surprise, there was no hue and cry and no one moved from what they were engaged in. The biker got up from his prone position on the road, surveyed his damage and came across to me. I expected a severe tongue lashing from the youngster. Nothing of the kind happened. He told me that he was a student on his way to his hostel July 2013 travel & flavors
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Mizo society is virtually free of caste distinctions and the women appear liberated. They smoke openly and are quite westernised in their preference for clothes. in Kolasib. He said that he would need my assistance to repair his bike. He promised to let me know what it would cost him to repair the bike and took down my mobile number. I reminded him that the Swift had also suffered damage to its side view mirror, but since neither vehicle had suffered much damage, we parted amicably. Aizawl, too, has a Taj Mahal! It stands on top of a hill in Durtlang and overlooks Aizawl. The mausoleum is on the grounds of the KV Residential School, a much sought-after residential school founded by Khawlhring and Verte Chhawnthuama. It was built by Khawlhring in memory of his beloved wife Verte, a popular teacher who died in a car accident in 2001. The three-storey edifice to love, which has some of the
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finest views one can get of Aizawl, is the final resting place of Verte and their son, who died in 2010. Lavishly constructed in marble, the building contains condolence messages from various organisations and Verte’s personal belongings- jackets, shawls, footwear, hand bags and the dress that was worn by her when she met with the accident. Although officially known as the KV Paradise, it is known locally as the Taj Mahal. The chances are that if you were to ask for the KV Paradise you will land up at the school and miss the memorial altogether. Mizoram means “Land of the Highlanders�. The main tribes of Mizoram are Lushai, Hmar, Ralte, Paite, Pawi and Lakher. The most commonly spoken language is Lushai, as that is
the predominant tribal group. Mizoram had been the hotbed of extremist activities between 1966 and 1986. It was during this period that Mizoram was transformed from a district of Assam State into a Union Territory in 1972 and to full statehood in 1986. The peace accord signed in 1986 by the Indian Government with the Mizo National Front has brought peace to the region. There are also two autonomous councils in the southern region to secure the aspirations of the dominant tribes in the region. In Aizawl, the major job provider is the government. One feature of Aizawl is that due to the steep terrain, its buildings sit on massive stilts. Most of the buildings have stilts that are longer than the height of the building! The
A view of Aizwal cityscape at night and in the daytime
view from KV Paradise showed just how much Aizawl had grown and unchecked– there were buildings everywhere and some parts of the hills were completely hidden from view. And there was still more construction going on. The streets were narrow and that made navigation through the city a difficult task. The vehicle density was high and speeding two wheelers made the experience of driving within the city a less than pleasurable exercise. As in Meghalaya, the influence of the Church is very conspicuous. I was given to understand that the Presbyterian Church holds sway in the North while the Baptists are in majority in the South of Mizoram; 90 per cent of the population is Christian, belonging to one denomination or the other. Apart from its influence on education and healthcare, the Church had contributed greatly to promotion of free speech and expression. A surprising aspect of Mizoram is that there is prohibition - liquor is neither sold in the state nor can you bring it in. DAY 2 – In Aizawl The Young Mizo Association, the Mizo Students’ Union and the Church wield considerable influence on society. They maintain checks and balances to ensure that corruption and such other excesses are capped. Societal awareness is high because of the influence of these three agencies and there was tight monitoring of schemes sponsored by the central government and the flow of funds. It is often asked whether it is the YMA that runs the government or the elected representatives. As in the other NE States, the citizens of Mizoram do not have to pay either income tax or property tax. Therefore, construction business is booming. Exemption of residential and commercial properties made excellent business sense because income from it is totally tax free. Mizo society is virtually free of caste distinctions and the women appear liberated. They smoke openly and are quite westernised in their preference for clothes. Women are also very visible at the workplace, whether in offices or in shops. The Mizos have two main meals, the first by 9 am, before they go to office and the second by 7 pm. During the lunch break, they have tea and snacks.
The parish priest of Christ The King Catholic Church is Fr. VA Paul who hailed from Manjapra in Ernakulam district, Kerala. He told me that the genesis of the underground movement in Mizoram was the direct result of a famine, which had been brought about by the flowering of bamboo in 1966, an occurrence that takes place every 50 years. Apparently, the flower of the bamboo directly impacts the fertility of rodents and the increase in their numbers led to destruction of crops resulting in a famine. In the years leading to 1966, Mizo society had been self-reliant. Mizos lived in far flung clusters and farmed their lands for rice, millet and vegetables. They depended on the plains only for their requirement of salt and kerosene. In such an environment, the neglect of the province by the State of Assam was exploited by Laldenga, who resigned his position as a LDC from the Indian Army and rallied young Mizos around him to start the underground movement. To neutralise the underground movement, the population was relocated closer to roads for better monitoring, one of the reasons why Mizoram is presently so city centered with 40 per cent of its 1.1 million people living in Aizawl and another 30 per cent in Lunglei, the second biggest city in Mizoram. With central funds pouring into the Union Territory after 1972, the self sufficient Mizos adopted a ‘go down dependent’ attitude with the result that the state did not produce more than 10 per cent of the rice required. I went to a view point near Thuampui from where I saw one of the most glorious night views of a city that one can see. From there, Aizawl looked like a city of the tallest skyscrapers in the world. As mentioned earlier, the hills had been completely built upon and each building was not less than three-storey high. I came across one that had used the height between two roads to build an eight storey building with access from the road below and one above! At night with the lights on, the buildings look like tall skyscrapers, each reaching up to the sky. Anyone planning to visit Aizawl must definitely factor in an evening at the Thuampui view point close to the Pushpak House, even though that does not feature in most tourist guide books. July 2013 travel & flavors
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cover story thanjavur
Thanjavur,
a trove of art & architecture Savithri Suresh & Tony William
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religion, arts and Thanjavur architecture. brings to mind The temple architecture images of huge temples here is typically made of granite, classical Dravidian musicians and Bharatanatyam in style and craft. dancers. Known across the world as UNESCO has the ‘city of temples’, Thanjavur is indeed recognised a place where history peeks at you from the temples in and every nook and corner. Dravidian art around the and architecture excelled during cityas World the time of Chola Empire Heritage Monuments. that brought the city to prominence Cholas-
Thanjavur connection
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he name Thanjavur is believed to have been derived from Tanjan, a demon in the Hindu mythology. Today,the district is much popular for being the ‘rice bowl of Tamil Nadu’. Although the early history of Thanjavur is vague, the city rose to prominence during the rule of the Chola dynasty. Until the Cholas made Thanjavur their capital in the medieval age, it was just another village in south east Tamil Nadu. Under the Cholas, Thanjavur rose to become an important centre of
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During the Sangam period, Thanjavur was not a significant city and none of the Tamil records speak of it. However, historians believe that the city had existed during that period. The rise of the medieval Chola King Vijayalaya and the subsequent annexation of the city changed the status of Thanjavur. After the death of Vijayalaya, his son, Aditya I consolidated his hold of the city and began giving it shape. Gradually, Thanjavur became the most important city of the Chola Empire and it remained the capital till the construction of Gangaikonda Cholapuram
in 1025. Raja Raja Chola I began the construction of the Brihadeeswara Temple which is considered to be the finest specimen of the South Indian temple architecture. The Cholas are known for reviving temple architecture in Tamil Nadu. The Chola reign also saw the revival of both Saiva and Vaishnava traditions of Hinduism making it a truly marvelous period in Tamil history.
Brihadeeswara, the Grand Temple
Poetry on rocks, that’s what the Brihadeeswara Temple looks like for an art lover. With its 212foot vimana, 80-tonne dome, more than sixfoothigh kalasam, 55-foot circumference, big linga and Nandi, the temple is indeed a marvel in stone. Also known as PeruvudaiyarKovil, it is a part of UNESCO World Heritage site ‘Great Living Chola Temple’. The construction of the temple beganin 1003 and was completed in1010. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, represented by a linga and was named Rajarajesvaramudayar after the king himself. The temple was built in a
courtyard measuring 240 X 120 m in the ratio of 1:2 with granite blocks. The vimanam where the deity resides was built at a height of 60.96m and the stone sikharaat the tip weighs 81.284 tonnes. The two tiered bhumi or wall can be credited for the great height of the temple. There is a pradakshinapatha (Circumambulatory passage) around the sanctum. On the walls of the lower circumambulatory passage, one can find attractive paintings of the Chola period while the upper passageway has the karana dance poses. Inscriptions inside the temple by ASI reads that the walls and adhisthana plinth are covered with inscriptions of Chola, Pandya, Vijayanagara, Nayaka and Maratha rulers. From this, it is quite clear that a number of royal families of the period have made donations to the temple. The niches in the lower wall of the temple depict various deities like Ganesha, Vishnu with Sridevi and Bhudevi, Bhikshatana, Kalantaka, Nataraja, Ardhanarishvara, Chandrasekhara to name a few. The upper
Brihadeewsara Temple, also known as Peruvudaiyar Kovil, it is part of UNESCO World Heritage Site ‘Great Living Chola Temple’ and is often considered to be one of the greatest architectural accomplishments by the medieval Cholas. Raja Raja Chola I began construction of the majestic temple in 1003 and completed it in 1010. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, represented by a linga and was named Rajarajesvaramudayar after the king himself
Right: A fresco depicting Lord Shiva with gold ornaments, one of the very few paintings of its kind, at Brihadeeswara Temple, Thanjavur
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circumambulatory has 81 dance poses depicting Shiva in different dance postures. It is believed that the Brihadeeswara Temple was built basically for the royal family and as a means to fulfill the emperor’s mission of bringing Chola culture, religion and supremacy to the capital.It is an architectural paradigm which shows the pure form of the Dravidian temple architecture along with Chola ideologies. Even today, it stands as a testament of the brilliant achievement of the Chola dynasty in art, architecture, painting and bronze casting. In front of the temple in a mandapa stands a 16-ft magnificent stone statue of Nandi, said to be carved out of a single rock. Several small Nandi adorn the outer walls of the temple. The walls of the temple have Chola frescoes depicting Lord Shiva’s life. The artists of Chola period proved their brilliance when they painted even the Asura women with an aura of beauty.
Airavatesvara Temple
Built by Raja Raja Chola II in the 12th century, the AiravatesvaraTemple located at Darasuram near
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Kumbakonam is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is another outstanding example of the Chola art and architecture with exquisite stone carvings. Although it is much smaller than the Brihadeeswara, each and every stone here has been carved in the finest detail. The temple was once a centre of entertainment with Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam patronized by the Chola Kings. The vimana of the temple is approximately 80-foot high and the southern part of the front mandapam was built in the form of a huge chariot with large stone wheels drawn by horses. The chariot and its wheel are so finely sculptured that they include the minute of details. To the east of the inner court, one can see a group of wellcrafted buildings one of which includes the seat for sacrifice or ‘balipita’. The pedestal of the ‘balipita’ connects a small shrine dedicated to Ganesha. One of the interesting features of the pedestal is the set of three finely carved steps which produce different musical notes when struck. Today, visitors are not allowed to touch this architectural marvel. The pillars surrounding the temple are
another attraction. Each pillar depicts various aspects of the Hindu mythology. The northern wall of the verandah for example has 108 inscriptions which speak about Saivite saints and important events in their life. A shrine dedicated to Goddess Parvati stands in the court near the temple separated by a common wall. This shrine was once a part of the temple and today is called Periya Nayaki Amman Temple. The deity of the temple is Lord Shiva and there is a legend about how the temple got its name. “According to the Hindu mythology, Airavat, the white elephant of Indra, the King of Gods, prayed to Lord Shiva for restoring his colour which turned blue due to a curse by Sage Durvasa. The legend has it that Airavat’s colour was restored after a bath in the sacred waters of this temple,” says Somasundran Gurukal, the main pujari of the temple. According to the mythology, Yama, Lord of death, worshipped Shiva here to rid himself of a sage’s curse. Yama is said to have taken a bath in the sacred tank as a result of which it has come to be called ‘Yamateertham.’
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Gangaikonda Cholapuram, one of the Great Living Chola Temples
Thirubhuvanam Temple built during the reign of the Chola Dynasty.
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Thirubhuvanam
From Airavatesvara’s regal beauty, moving towards Kumbakonam, the Kampaheswara Temple at Thirubhuvanam will capture your senses. Senthil Kumar, a temple official, says, “The Kampaheswara Temple was built during the reign of King Kulothunga III.It is dedicated to Lord Shiva who is worshipped as Kampaheswara. It is believed that Lord Kampaheswara freed an ancient king called Varakula Pandiyar of Brahmahatya or the sin of killing a Brahmin.” Although the main deity of the temple is Shiva Lingam in the form of Kampaheswara, there is a separate shrine for Sarabeswara, a fusion of man, eagle and lion, a deity which is believed to have rescued the devas from the fury of Narashima. Like the other great Cholatemples, Kampaheswara also follows the Dravidian style of architecture although it is not listed as a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. The temple has two towers and two outer temples. At the entrance to the temple, one thing that captures your imagination is the 20-ft tall door. On the walls,the sculptures which depict the Puranas can be seen. There are several small shrines in the temple complex dedicated to various deities like Dakshinamurthy, Lingothbhavar and Brahma. One of the most striking features of the temple is that unlike other Chola temples the vimana is extremely high. While talking about the temple architecture one cannot miss Anthony Raja who has a unique position here. A high school dropout, he and his team have undertaken the kind of work that the Archaeological Survey of India usually does by being involved in the restoration and reconstruction of the temple. His team identifies portions of the temple that need restoration and these portions are taken out and reconstructed or repaired and arefitted in the same place. The team was involved in the repair work of the Rajagopuram in 2008, a work which fetched them a lot of accolades.
Gangaikonda Cholapuram
The temple at Gangaikonda
Cholapuram was built to establish the Chola might in South India. RajendraChola I conquered a large area of South India and extended his empire until the Ganga valley in 11th century and work for the temple was begun after this victory thereby earning the temple its name Gangaikonda Cholapuram. In height and stature it stands next to the Brihadeeswara with a tower rising to a height of 182 ft. It is often humorously described as the feminine counterpart of the Brihadeeswara. The vimana is flanked on either side by two smaller temples the one in the north which houses the Goddess is quite well preserved. The main sikhara is circular in shape. On the eastern side, one can see a massive masonry Nandi. The main deity of the temple is the grand 13-foot tall Shiva Lingam. The main tower surrounded by small shrines denotes an emperor surrounded by his chieftains. Unlike most of the south Indian temples where the main entrance has majestic towers, Gangaikonda Cholapuram like Brihadeeswara has a regal vimana above the sanctum sanctorum. The mahamandapa, a two-storey structure, is dotted with pillars containing exquisite stone carvings which tell the world about the magnificence of the Chola artisans. Over the years, Thanjavur has changed a lot. The transformation which is slow and steady has become a necessity for its survival. A large number of its youth migrated to cosmopolitan cities in search of greener pastures. The cityscape itself has undergone changes with concrete buildings replacing old structures. Traditions and customs have given way for new trends. Gone are the days when ladies were decorating their homes with kolam or severe looking men paying salutation to the Lord. It is not a place today where every young girl and boy learns Bharatanatyam and Carnatic music. A visitor will find very few signs that remind him of the origin of the city. As you walk down the streets of Thanjavur, you realise that the Great Living Chola Temples are all that is left of the great Chola dynasty. The rest as they say is history.
Stone sculpture depicitng Lord Krishna and gopis at Brihadeeswara
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Bharatanatyam
Bharatanatyam was encouraged and patronized by the Chola rulers and the temples at Brihadeeswara and Airavateswara were centers of dance under the Devadasi system which was practiced at the time. The dance form which was earlier a mere religious salutation to the lord began to be molded as a form of entertainment and dancers were richly rewarded for their performances by the King. The Thanjavur style of Bharatanatyam evolved as a result of the transformation of the dance form as a means of entertainment.
Carnatic music
Tyagaraja Swami, one of the greatest composers of Carnatic music has a unique bond with the city of Thanjavur. He began his musical training under Sri Sonti Venkata Ramanayya who was from Thanjavur. He was invited to perform the fifth of the Pancharatna Kritis before the then emperor of Thanjavur. The Tavil is an important instrument for Carnatic music and a main percussion instrument for the Nagaswaram. This double headed barrel shaped drum made of a solid block of wood had its origins in Thanjavur.
Weaving a magic
The Vathina Silk Centre in Kumbakonam has a seven-century old story to tell. One of the oldest silk saree making centers in Thanjavur district, it follows traditional methods for saree weaving and continues to draw customers from all over Tamil Nadu. “It takes at least one week to make a saree with a single sided border and 10 days for two-sided border sarees. Wedding sarees which need special decorations and grand works need 15 days,� says K J Kamsan the owner of the centre. Export quality sarees are priced at around Rs 4000. They are also into the production of nine-yard sarees although it is made only if there is an order.
Getting there Nearest airport: Tiruchirapally civil airport, located 60 kms from Thanjavur Nearest railway station: Tiruchirapally railway station, 60 kms from Thanjavur By road: Regular bus services connecting major cities and towns available
Also Visit Thanjavur Maratha Palace Thanjavur Royal Palace Saraswathi Mahal Library dating back to the 1600s Sivaganga Park
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PARADISE ON EARTH kashmir
Kashmir regales visitors with enchanting beauty
Kashmir is described as the paradise on Earth. Its picturesque landscapes with beautiful lakes against the backdrop of snowcapped mountains make an ethereal world
Mary Martina
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f there is a place that I have really wanted to visit for a very long time, it has to be Kashmir. From time immemorial, it has been a place that has left all its visitors spellbound with immense beauty and picturesque locales. I was curious to find out and experience this with my own eyes.
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Watching the expanse of snow I remember reading that Eskimos have more than A hundred synonyms for the word ‘snow’. Today, I wonder if the Kashmiris haVE more
I left for Srinagar on April 15 this year with excitement to begin my Kashmir itinerary. Even before I landed at Srinagar Airport, the view from the plane was a sight to die for. The snow capped mountains took my breath away. I felt a shiver down my spine as I witnessed the awesomeness of the majestic Himalayas. And my journey had just started. All the way from the airport to the hotel I drank in the sights that I could not have imagined in my wildest dreams. The reason as to why Kashmir was called paradise on Earth was slowly beginning to dawn on me. After reaching the hotel and freshening up, I visited the
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Mughal Gardens close to the Dal Lake. Filled with flowers and natural beauty, this place aptly captures the beauty of nature in all its glory. The place had an almost equal number of tourists and locals who were out to enjoy the warm and beautiful evening in the city. After a long and tiring wait at the airport, a walk in this park truly refreshed my senses. After clicking a number of photos and enjoying the beauty of the place, I returned to the hotel. Another thing that I would like to share is the hearty welcome that we received at Hotel Tulips, Srinagar. The Hotel was just inaugurated and we were its
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first guests. The staff and management at this small and homely hotel really made us feel welcome and we were really thrilled with the kind of attention they showered on us. I hope that this is not a one off incident and that they treat all their guests in the same way they treated us. After breakfast, I left for Sonmarg, a major town just ahead of Baltal. Buzzing with tourists and locals alike, the beauty of Himalayas really comes alive here. Situated around 80 km from Srinagar at an altitude of 2,740 feet, this is one of the places that you must visit. The snow capped pine trees, the glaciers, the roads and a carpet of snow make you feel
that you have stepped into another world or a movie set. I cannot even describe the extent of beauty that lay in front of me. Unfortunately, since I did not have much protection for my camera, I was not able to click a lot of photographs. It was almost evening when I decided to have a final stopover at the Tulips Garden before calling it a day. The next day was reserved for Gulmarg, which is a major tourist destination in the state after Leh. Here too, the wide expanse of snow left me speechless. Watching the expanse of snow I remember reading that Eskimos have more than a hundred synonyms for the word
Kashmir trivia Kaleidoscope of culture influenced by dyansties like Maurya and Mughal Buddhism said to have been brought to Kashmir by Emperor Ashoka
From top left: Sonmarg Valley in full bloom Trekkers crossing a snow covered area in Gulmarg Locals with flowers in Pahalgam
‘snow’. Today, I wondered if the Kashmiris have more. The prime attraction at Gulmarg is the Gonndola Cable car. As my four-seater car began to move, I was rewarded with an amazing view of the Gulmarg valley crowned with the snow peaks of the Himalayas and Karakoram. Filled with a blanket of snow, the place has breathtaking views of mountain peaks that extend all the way to Pakistan. After spending more than half the day at Gulmarg, I returned to Srinagar and the famous Dal Lake. Known throughout the world, a ride on the shikara is a must if you ever decide to visit this place. The final day was reserved
for Pahalgam which is almost a four-hour journey from Srinagar. While travelling to the destination, I was rewarded with many amazing sights of rivers and mountains and besides the yellow expanse of mustard fields that added more vibrancy to the landscapes. Also adding to the sights are large numbers of orchards that are spread across the state. Though devoid of snow, this place is also extremely blessed with lakes and beautiful landscapes. After reaching Pahalgam, we decided to trek the mountains. Though mules are the general method of transportation, trekking allows you the luxury to soak in the
oxygen rich air, helping you revitalise every vein in your body. Highly recommend you to take a trek and enjoy the beauty of the place. While walking around the city in the evening, an unpleasant thought came to my mind that I would be going home on the next day. A visit to this land made me understand why this land is called paradise on Earth. Visiting Kashmir is now officially off my bucket list, I still need to return to see Leh and Ladakh which I had to miss due to lack of time and freezing temperature. If you are in need of a holiday, take this trip and you will not be disappointed.
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wonderland serbia
Serbia a crossroad of European cultures Coming to Serbia, the South Slavic heartland, you feel the difference. The region has been greatly influenced by different cultures since the Roman times and before. Numerous monuments and different ethnic groups here are the testimony that it has remained host to various cultures with the changing times Savithri Suresh
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he name Serbia brings to mind ideas of a mysterious land and the passionate people who cherish their long history with pride. Lying at the crossroads of different civilizations, Serbia is one of those tourist spots that you wouldn’t expect to surprise you but it does and how. Serbia has a history stretching back to the Paleolithic era and was once a part of the great Roman Empire. Belgrade, a city with history staring at you from every nook and corner, ought to be the first stop for anyone coming here. From the moment you land at the Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport, the city will capture your senses.
Belgrade The white city
Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, is one of the oldest cities in Europe and ranks amongst the largest cities in South Central Europe. Since ancient times, Belgrade has been an important crossway for East and West Europe. The city lies at the confluence of Sava and Danube, two major waterways which surround it from three sides, earning it the sobriquet, ‘Gateway to the Balkans’. Having been through quite a lot of instability ages ago, Belgrade today boasts of a robust industry, excellent infrastructure and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country. A visit to Belgrade must always begin with a trip to Kalemegdan Fortress, one of the most historic places in the city. The fortress, resting on the white rocks at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, has been annexed a staggering 77 times, as well as destroyed and rebuilt in its 7,000-year history. Today, it houses a military museum, an observatory, the Cvijeta Zuzoric Art pavilion, a zoo, an excursion site and a sports and amusement park. Indeed, Kalemegdan has stood the test of time and stands regally. Just beyond Kalemegdan is Belgrade’s historic centre where one gets a chance to visit the 1831 home of Princess Ljubica, the Gathering Church (Saborna Crkva). The Manak’s House is the only freestanding borough home in the city and features an impressive ethnological collection. A few streets away one can spot the Bajrakli Mosque, considered the oldest place of worship in the city. The neighbourhood boasts of a few best preserved old fashioned pubs, some of which date back to the 17th and 18th century. Knez Mihajlova is often touted as a pedestrian’s paradise because it is one of the most vibrant and well known streets of Belgrade. The city has several monuments to honour heroes who’ve fought in its long and bloody history. Located at Krug dvojke, the monuments include Nikola Tesla and Dositej Obradovic, and Orince Mihalo at Republic Square which is a favourite spot for locals because it is located near National Museum, National Theatre and has several sidewalk cafes and taverns, making it a well visited destination for tourists. On the shores of the Danube, one can find quite a lot of appealing sights like Sundial House, July 2013 travel & flavors
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On the shores of the Danube, one can find quite a lot of appealing sights like the Sundial House, the Spirta House museum, the house of Dimitrije Davidovic, the 18th century Church of Holy Trinity Spirta House Museum, the house of Dimitrije Davidovic, the 18th century Church of Holy Trinity and on the river bankthe Old Port Authority building. One can also spot several exquisite seafood restaurants in the area.
Novi Sad where different cultures coexist
Left: Catholic cathedral in Novi Sad,Serbia Right: Skulls at the Skull Tower at Nis
Novi Sad is probably a paleontologist’s dream as evidences of prehistoric settlements have been scattered in the area which makes up the city today. One of the most striking features of the city is its patchwork of European and Balkan cultures which make up the people of the city. Serbians consider the people of Novi Sad to be the most hospitable and more open when compared to the rest of the country. The Freedom Square in the central square of the city features a 19th century neo-gothic Roman Catholic Cathedral named after Virgin Mary. Behind the cathedral, one can see the City Hall of Novi Sad, an elegant neo-renaissance two-storey structure that bears a striking resemblance to the Graz City Hall in Austria. A walk along the Njegos Street will bring you to the unusual Iron Man (Kod gvozdenog čoveka) building. Named after the statue of a prince that perches atop the building, it was erected in 1909. Moving on to the Zmaj Jovina Street, one can find the eclectic Bishop Palace and right behind it the Gathering Church whose
gate features an exquisite red marble sacramental cross. A person coming to Novi Sad can never leave without stepping into the Petrovaradin Fortress, one of the most popular and historic sites of the city. Situated on the top of a high cliff, the fortress overlooks the Danube making the whole scene quite majestic and otherworldly. The fourstorey structure, often called the Gibraltar on the Danube, features nearly 16 km long galleries, 12,000 gun holes and 13 gates, making the whole fort quite impregnable. Accommodation facilities cater to anyone from those on a strict budget to those on a spending spree. With more than 20 hostels, hotels and private accommodations, and the warm natured people of the city, Novi Sad welcomes a visitor with open arms. The city hosts quite a number of festivals like the Sterija Theater Fest in May and the annual EXIT Music Festival which brings a lot of music lovers to the city in JuneJuly. Lovers of wine can get a chance to visit Fruska Gora vineyard which has exceptional conditions for wine making, as a result of which it has prominence across Central Europe since the Middle Ages.
Nis –Home of Constantine the Great
Nis lies on a fertile plain surrounded by mountains at the intersection of Nišava and Južna Morava rivers which comprise two of the major travel routes
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in the Balkans. These routes have been an important route connecting major cities like Sofia, Constantinople and Thessaloniki. Located 238 km from Belgrade, Nis is also one of the oldest cities in Central Europe with a rich history, the most famous of it being the birth of Emperor Constantine the Great. Once you begin exploring the town’s surroundings, several amazing forts, including Bolvan, Petrus, Lipovac, Gradac, Kulina and Korman, would stun you speechless. Some of them were built during the times before Christ and its rich traditions, resources and architecture are intact for tourists today. It is worth stopping in Deligrad, the site of several battles and victories during the 1st Serbian Uprising, for a shopping trip. The cafes at Kujundžijsko sokače do not disappoint those looking for a quick bite and it is a popular hangout amongst the locales. The people here have preserved their customs and traditions fiercely. When in Nis, it will be a wasted trip if you don’t tuck into the popular grilled minced meat delicacy ćevapčići which can
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be found in the village of Aleksinac.
Magical countryside
Those looking to escape the sights and sounds of the city would love the exquisite countryside villages where you would forget everything, including time. Such is the magic that one sees in the hamlets of Serbia. Many of the rich countryside hamlets with their exotic landscapes where one can spend long hours on treks, horse-riding, camping and bicycling are definitely something that the visitors shouldn’t decline. Staying in the cabins at the remote villages would mean roughing it out and that includes hunting small game, munching fruits from nearby trees and cool drinks of water in the streams all around. All these make the Serbian village a paradise and an ideal honeymoon destination in Europe. Trekking and camping would be the most important activities for the adventitia seeker in the mountain resorts. During winters, it becomes a destination for skiing and
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other winter sports and indeed, the mountains and lakes are a sight to capture during winter. When you leave the nation satisfied and happy, you may feel as if you’re leaving behind something dear to you. The reason, Serbia would have charmed you with its exquisite beauty and its culturally diverse and passionate people so much.
GREENER PASTURES: Sheep grazing in a countryside of Serbia
DON’T MISS
An invigorating experience at a mineral spa dating back to the Roman Times like Soko Banja A chance to witness the flora and fauna of Central Europe at ĐErdap National Park Experiencing the Serbian Nightlife at one of the many pubs and discotheques in Belgrade A Christian pilgrimage to a Serbian monastery in Fruška Gora
SERBIAN DELIGHTS
The national drink is a distilled beverage called Slivovitz or plum brandy Slatko a sweet fruit preserve is a popular dessert Sarma is a dish made of grapes or cabbages rolled around a mince meat filling DĐuve is an oven-baked meat and vegetable stew ĆCevapi is a grilled dish made of minced meat
Exploring Flavors karim’s hotel
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tel that serves nonHo ’s rim Ka an th y tr preparation using rant in the coun of au st ds re ho et er tt m be ue iq no un be ive own for its There could . The menu is extens tel in Old Delhi is kn rs ho ro is pe Th em . l es ha sh ug di M n vegetaria l cooks of a etc. ed down by the roya nd ha s nt qorma, tandoori bakr ie n ed to gr ut in m ni ha secret ja ah sh ties of dishes like and an endless varie
Adwaidh Rajan
Photos: Sulfikar Puthenveettil
A plaque telling about the hotel’s history on display at Karims
I
t was during a chilly January earlier this year that I made it to the capital city for a brief visit. The dipping temperature had already caught me unawares and I had to put on blanket over ds blanket to no avail. As the clock was pacing towar and West puri Janak at hotel 12 noon, I got off my caught the Blue Line Metro to Rajiv Chowk. And I found myself walking down the narrow and . swarming alleys of Chawri Bazar in Old Delhi ng retiri ees I arduously walked past the devot of r praye noon y Frida the after d from the Masji be ṣalāt al-jumu’ah. The Masjid is considered to . India in re tectu archi al Mugh of ple the finest exam The purpose my trip to Old Delhi is to experience the Mughal delicacies. And what better way to to taste the Mughal cuisine than by being a guest the d serve who cooks royal the of ts the descendan the Mughal emperors- from Muhammed Babur to . Zafar Shah dur Baha very last king
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This page: The hotel is always bustling with guests who come from far and wide to tuck into the delights of Mughlai cuisine Facing page: One of the many delights that Karim’s offers for the lovers of Mughlai cuisine
The fact that Karim’s Hotel turns 100 this year and keeps attracting locals and foreigners alike can vouch for the quality and taste provided here. The food here is priced economically, but cooked royally 68 travel & flavors
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Royal flavors alive Karim’s Hotel at Gali Kebbabian in Old Delhi has been preserving the Mughal flavors for a large number of foodies visiting the hotel daily. For non-vegetarians, Karim’s is a paradise. Karim’s ancestors arrived from Central Asia in the 16th century with Babur and worked as cooks for the Mughal dynasty. But in 1857, when the power of the Mughal diminished, they had to flee Delhi and take refuge at Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh, fearing the British. In 1911, Haji Karimuddin returned to Delhi and set up a small dhaba in the city, which was to be the start of the fairytale. Back then there were just two items on the menu and a space sufficient for merely 20 guests. But in 1913, Lady Luck smiled on Karimuddin and the hotel was launched at its present location near the Jama Masjid. With the royal flavors intact, they established a strong foothold here flourishing into a restaurant that holds over 200 employees and serving a menu of over 80 distinct dishes. The restaurant now into its centennial year continues to attract food lovers from India and abroad at a time when many of its competitors have shut down. Ingredients kept secret It is likely to miss the entrance to Karim’s Hotel since it is too small to a restaurant like this and there is no signboard at all to help you out. When you are finally there, you are welcomed by a narrow and dark alleyway that leads to the hotel. Though near capacity almost on all working hours, the seating arrangements are so vast that you are not kept waiting for long. The fact that Karim’s Hotel turns 100 this year and keeps attracting locals and foreigners alike can vouch for the quality and taste that are on offer here. The food here is priced economically, but cooked royally. And of course, the ingredients of most
of these recipes are a closely guarded secret. Plenty of options With so much of delicacies on offer, one would naturally be curious about the delightful dishes of Karim’s. For starters, murgh ka shorba (Chicken soup) and Mutton Yakhni (Specially treated mutton soup) are good choices to kick start your appetite. There are plenty of options in the main course that can be combined with various kinds of naans, paranthas and rotis. The tandoor roti and baqarkhani kulcha at Karim’s is one of a kind. Shahjahani mutton qorma The Shahjahani Mutton Qorma is a spicy dish that has been on offer at Karim’s for the last 100 years. The mutton pieces are mixed with yogurt, ghee, chili, pepper and coriander powders, cloves, green cardamom pods, black cardamom seeds, black pepper, cumin seeds, garlic paste, nutmeg and mace. Then it is made into paste and boiled in water and fried brown onions are added to the steaming paste. When it reaches the table, it steams with an arousing aroma and when you take a bite, it would definitely melt your mouth. Tandoori bakra One of the most sought-after dishes on the Karim’s menu, tandoori bakra is a lamb stuffed with chicken, rice, eggs and dry fruits along with various masalas and spices. The marinated meat is fried in an earthen oven and served hot. To slice the meat, you are provided with not cutleries, but small kitchen knives instead. It is a recipe that costs around Rs 4,000 and is supposed to be eaten together by a group. Though I couldn’t afford the bakra, I could tell it tasted delicious. The satisfied faces of the customers at the table nearby are the testimony.
Tandoori raan This is a scaled down version of tandoori bakra, for customers like me who have financial constraints. This is fried chicken or mutton leg roasted just like tandoori bakra. The aroma from the fried piece is irresistible and its taste is really out of this world. Never before have I tasted spices and the flavors in a recipe like this and those tastes I wished would stay inherent. Makhani murgh-e-jahangiri ‘A rare recipe in our possession for generations’ is what Karim’s claims of makhani murgh-e-jahangiri. If you are mistaken that Karim’s are only good at mutton recipes, you should taste some of this butter chicken and your perceptions will receive a strong battering. The recipe is essentially boneless chicken pieces seasoned with ginger paste and mixed with yogurt and chili powder and kept for marinating for long hours. Later, the grilled chicken is added with the Karim’s special makhani sauce (Tomato sauce) to bring you the very popular and historical makhani murgh-e-jahnangiri which holds a cult status among the patrons here. Chicken jahangiri Chicken jahangiri is another Mughalai dish passed down traditionally to the current holders of Karim’s. The recipe is an all-in-one treat. It is a bit sour, then tastes sweet and is saucy all along. A half plate of chicken jahangiri costs you 170 bucks, while a full can be ordered for around Rs 300. Jahangiri with a piece of sheermal which costs Rs 65 is a deadly combo. Though the food I tasted was extremely good, the tastes at Karim’s are never ending and you can never have enough of it. When I got out of the restaurant into the streets of Old Delhi, I made up my mind to be back here again to taste even more of the Mughal delights.
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Food Safari jackfruit festival
Jack of all
fruits
Jackfruits are old fashioned and untidy. This is the common notion about this fruit as there was no attempt to experiment and redefine the usual recipes of jackfruit dishes. But the recently held Jackfruit Festival reestablished its position as the king of all fruits T&F Team
H
ow many dishes can you prepare out of a jackfruit? Bit confusing, right? But the people of Wayanad, a small district in Kerala, had a clear cut answer to this query. Jackfruit, which is considered the staple fruit of this region, indeed turned out to be a blessing for the villagers. A group of villagers came in touch with an NGO named Uravu, and there evolved the concept of Chakka Mahotsavam or Jackfruit Festival. Experimenting and redefining the usual recipes of jackfruit dishes, the villagers created history by preparing 200 varieties of jackfruit dishes, there by getting into the Limca World of Records. Chips, wine, jam, ice cream, peda, chocolate, payasam (kheer), squash, pappadam and avalose unda are some of the mouthwatering delicacies which stole the hearts of foodies at the fest.
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Unniyappams, ice creams and many other delicacies made from jackfruits on sale at the Jackfruit Festival
mystery n magic theyyam
Through the looking glass
Adwaidh Rajan
Photos: Santhosh Rajendran
The intensity of a Theyyam performer is so great that it is said that the artiste is possessed by the God. There is only a thin line between the art and the artiste and when the line gets blurred, the performer and performance become one- that is all powerful and universal too
A
t first glance, Theyyam could be misapprehended as another traditional art form that has roots in ancient folklores. But a little attention to details will tell you that Theyyam is not just an art form, it is more than anything an art form could be. A sect of people in the northern
region of Kerala believe that when an artiste performs this centuries old art form, he embodies God, gets possessed by Him to bless and at times condemn. The impression that a Theyyam first creates in spectators’ mind is fear. The performer wearing extravagant clothes, July 2013 travel & flavors
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Tid-bits
A similar festival called Bhuta Kola (spirit worship) is prevalent among the Tulu-speaking communities of Kasaragod in Kerala and Udupi district of Karnataka.
according to the proponents, theyyam is a ritual rather than a performing art. As a result, the preparations and trainings for performing a Theyyam are rigorous and sacred at the same time
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A Theyyam artiste looking at the mirror. The concept is that the artiste gets transformed into the God during the process of putting on costumes and makeup
breastplates and large headgears and sporting exquisite shades of red, yellow and black on the face and body itself makes for a striking figure. Also known as Kaliyaattom or Thirayattam, this mystic art consists of a ritualistic dance accompanied by drum beats and narrative songs called Thottam . This ritualistic dance form is generally considered to be a means to glorify Goddess Kali as the etymology of the name Kaliyattom signifies. Many regions of North Malabar, specifically Kasargod and Kannur districts, Mananthavady taluk of Wayanad and Vadakara and Koyilandy taluks of Kozhikode district are the places where one can see the Theyyam performance in all its glory. The name Theyyam is considered to have originated from the word ‘Daivam’ meaning God. However, there is no proper record on the origins of the art form. According to myths, it was Parashurama who sanctioned the festival of Theyyam and assigned the responsibilities of performing it to the ‘untouchable’ or backward communities of North Kerala. Some experts even trace the origins of the art form to neolithic or chalcolithic eras. Theyyam is staged at village shrines called Kaavu and were traditionally sponsored by the ruling or rich families. But it was the people belonging to lower castes who performed Theyyam. So, the concept of Theyyam as a socioreligious ceremony should be considered revolutionary as the upper caste people used to bow before Theyyam and ask for his blessing, during a period when the caste system was dominating society. The worship involves offering liquor and meat to Bhagawathi, Shiva and Vishnu which was also against the social norms. It is also remarkable that Theyyam did not constrain itself within the framework of Hinduism. It even branched out to depict popular Muslim characters like Ali Chamundi and Mokri Poker during its evolution. Theyyam is more accepted as a ritual rather than a performing art among its aficionados. As a result, the preparations and trainings for performing a Theyyam are rigorous and sacred at the same time. The right to don the role of Theyyam is acquired by birth as it is passed down familial lines of certain indigenous tribal communities. These practitioners do not hesitate to put themselves in harm’s way to perfect the art. Such is the gruelling complexities of these performances that believers have no second thoughts of the presence of God in the Theyyam artiste. Each Kolam in the art represents Gods or Heroes. Very few Theyyams like Muchilott Bhagavathy and Kadangott July 2013 travel & flavors
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The makeup and costumes of Theyyam create a striking impact on the devotees. The facial makeup takes up to an average of eight hours andcolours of red, black, orange, yellow and green are the most applied Theyyam artistes performing in the middle of a crowd at the Palloor temple festival
Makkomare of female gender representing mainly Goddesses, but performed by men. It must be noted that these performances are not done on a stage, but in an open space where devotees gather. Before the performance, the song describing the story and powers of the particular Kolam is sung accompanied with chenda. The atmosphere gets charged up as Theyyam takes the centre stage. The artiste sways his body in unbelievable patterns and dances to the beats of traditional instruments like chenda, veekuchenda (both drums), elathalam (cymbals) and kuzhal (horns).The dances may be fast paced or slow paced according to the song related to the Kolam. The performer is readied for Theyyam from a very young age. When the boy turns nine years, he can enter the stage with small Kolams like Onathaaru and Onappottan. At 15, if he is good enough to ply the trade, he dons the role of Achandaivam. The Theyyam artiste should also
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gain mandatory expertise in Kalaripayattu, a local martial art. The performer’s immediate preparations begin 10-20 days before the day of performance. He should master his body and mind in order to transform himself into a seeminglysupernatural being. For this, he is confined to a temporary chamber near the temple and cut off from the outside world, including his family. During this interlude, he prepares his mind with mediation and adjusts his food intake to control his bowel movements as he is supposed to be in-character for hours stretching from 12 hours to a day. A single Theyyam artiste can do up to a hundred performances in the seven-month season. The makeup and costumes of Theyyam create a striking impact on the devotees. The facial makeup takes up to an average of eight hours and colours of red, black, orange, yellow and green are the most applied. After the makeup, large headgears and
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breastplates, predominantly red in colour (said to evoke fear) with splashes of gold are used. Headgears, breastplates, ornaments and facial designs vary according to different Kolams. Finally, the artiste is made to look in a mirror. Many artistes claim that this is the moment when the transformation from a human being to God occurs. “Building up to the task and then, seeing yourself in that majestic form translates your state of mind into a greater level. You feel as closer to God as you can ever be,� says Suresh Babu, a seasoned artiste with the title of Anjootan, one of the supreme honours in the art. There are over 400 forms of Theyyam in existence in Malabar. Each of them has its own distinct stories, appearances and actions. The legend behind each Kolam is recited to devotees before the performer makes his way to the gathering. An extreme act of Theyyam is that of Thee Chamundi based on the story of Prahlada, the
son of a demon king who worshipped Lord Vishnu and was thrown in the fire for doing so. The performer who personates Thee Chamundi jumps into a heap of fire. Sree Muthappan Theyyam is the impersonation of both Vishnu and Shiva, and thereby pointing towards unity or singularity of God. Vannathan Theyyam, preformed only at the Karakkakavu Temple, Kasaragod, is conducted in memory of Kolakkaran, an artiste who lost his life while staging Theyyam there. Theyyam, though over 2000 years old, still lives in the hearts of devotees in Kerala with the same vigour and passion .The performer who undertakes tasks like jumping into a heap of fire, dancing with fire around his waist and tirelessly labouring for hours and days in a costume that outsizes him, is no mean feat. That he comes out of it unscathed almost every time is sure to guarantee the presence of God in him.
roof of the world nepal
Swyambhunath Stupa-
crowning glory of
Nepal Amit Kishor Subedi
Swyambhunath is one of the glorious Buddhist chaitayas and it is also one of the most ancient holy shrines of the Kathmandu valley. According to historical inscriptions, Swyambhunath was a pilgrimage centre before the 5th century AD
K
athmandu is the most densely populated district of Nepal with a population of 1.7 million. This is one of the very few places where you can find eternal peace. Like any other cities, most of the people here are migrants from the rural areas of the country and are busy trying to earn a living. Though I was born into a Hindu family, I never believed in miracles of Gods. For me, life is here and now and Karma is my religion. For some inner self discovery, I usually prefer meditation and have been practising Bipasana meditation. The Bipasana or the method of witnessing self breath is the greatest mediation technique gifted by Lord Buddha to this world. Buddhism is the religion of meditation, and the Buddha is closer to my heart than any other spiritual leader. The Buddha never uttered the word god in his life time; he never talked about soul
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and always preached against the establishing of idols and statues. But the irony is that later Buddha himself was made God by priests and a large number of statues erected in monasteries and elsewhere. Most of the evenings, I would go to Swyambhunath Stupa which is located on a small hill in Kathmandu. Every time I visit the stupa, I experience a strange and powerful tranquilizing energy all around it. The visitors who come here seem to be quite happy to see the meditative faces of Buddha. I love to be there in the evening as I can also view the entire Kathmandu valley in neon lights. My instinct was telling me that there was something tranquil about the whole thing
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and I was right. One has to climb 365 stairs from the east which is the main gate in order to reach the Swyambhunath Stupa. These stairs symbolise the fact that we have to be aware of our each step during the 365 days of our lives so that we can achieve ultimate bliss and peace. The eastern gate is adorned with colourful flags and paintings. There is a huge 12 ft Tibetan prayer wheel at the entrance besides numerous small ones. It is really pleasant to see those wheels spinning. Three huge statues of the Buddha of the 17th century on both sides of the stairs welcome pilgrims to the world of eternal peace. Swyambhunath is one of the glorious Buddhist chaitayas and it is also one of the most ancient
holy shrines of the Kathmandu valley. According to historical inscriptions, Swyambhunath was already a pilgrimage centre before the 5th century AD. So its origins can be traced much earlier than that. The Swyambhunath is surrounded by various statues of the Buddha in different mudras (positions).The stupa is also known as monkey temple due to the fact that a large number of monkeys reside around the place. It is easily visible from anywhere in the Kathmandu valley as it has been decorated with a glittering golden spire on top of the lofty whitewashed dome. The meditative eyes of Buddha watching the four side of the stupa symbolises the fact that eternal wisdom can be achieved
Above: Devotees thronging rows of stone structures at Swyambhunath seeking Lord Buddha’s blessings. Facing page: A Buddha statue at Swayambhunath temple
I love to be there in the evening as I can also view the entire Kathmandu valley in neon lights. My human instincts were telling me that there was something tranquil about the whole thing and I was right through meditation. Swyambhunath Stupa is often used as a symbol of Nepal to denote the birth place of Lord Buddha. Two bullet shape temples on both sides of the stupa were established by King Pratap Malla to help him win over Tibet. On the Swyambhu hill, there is also a temple to prevent smallpox and other epidemic and it signifies how Buddhism and Hinduism existed in harmony in Nepal. The ‘Palace of Peace’ is another attraction. The Palace is linked with tantric Buddhism and inside the temple there is a secret chamber that is always kept locked. Some believe that the 8th century Santikar Acharya lies in the room. He is believed to be an esoteric magician who had complete control over weather. The existence of the Acharya remains shrouded in mystery. Two festivals are mainly celebrated in the Swyambhunath templeBuddha Jayanti in April and Mau and Loshar in February-March. Pilgrims from around the country visit the place on these occasions. Gunala, a month-long festival, is celebrated here in August
marking the end of rainy season. Origin According to Swyambhupuran, once, when the Kathmandu valley was marooned in water, a mystical lotus bloomed, emitting a strange calm light. A great devotee of the Buddha, Bodhissattva Manjushree, saw the light and felt that everyone should observe and pray to the mystical energy of peace. He then dried up the lake with his tantric energy and the lotus turned into a hill while the light transformed into Swyambhunath Stupa. The name Swyambhu also denotes ‘self -created’. The rest of the area became today’s Kathmandu valley. Alone in the stupa, I often meditate on the last words of Buddha ‘appodipobhava’ – be a light unto yourself. I ask myself is my light enlightening myself. Am I creating something better to prove my existence? Buddhamsaranam gachhami!! Dhammamsaranam gachhami!! Sanghamsaranam gachhami!! Zen Sammasati
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Luxury houseboat ride
Backwater undergoes a sea of change
Adwaidh Rajan
As the name signifies, houseboats are houses built on boats. From a very humble beginning when they were used to transport spices and rice from Alappuzha to the Cochin port to the modern day houseboats that has five star facilities to accommodate the tourists, the traditional Kettuvallom of Kerala has undergone a sea-change in a short time. A voyage in these houseboats nowadays tops the priority list of any tourist visiting Kerala. The tranquility that the slow-moving houseboat gives to the traveler coupled with the scenic beauty of Kuttanad countryside and Vembanad Lake has made it one of the most sought-after travel destinations in the international tourism circuit. Since its inception in the 1990s, the houseboat industry and the income generated from it has surged manifold and is now a trademark of the rich brand that Kerala puts forth to tourists worldwide. Many houseboats take its guests on a trip through the waters, but there are some vessels that have bedrooms and other facilities for their customers to stay floating in the backwaters for days to weeks 78 travel & flavors
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Luxury houseboat ride
Spice Routes Luxury Cruises
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I
t was spices that attracted foreigners to the Indian subcontinent centuries ago but today foreigners are coming to Kerala in search of Clove, Pepper, Cardamom and Ginger which are in fact four luxury houseboats operated by Spice Routes Luxury Cruises from Akkarakalam Memoirs, Alappuzha.
Stay at resort You can combine a boat ride in the Alappuzha backwaters and a stay either at a resort on the shore of the Vembanad backwaters or in the midst of a cardamom plantation in Thekkady. Akkarakalam Memoirs in Alappuzha and Carmelia Haven in Thekkady are two specialty lodging facilities that are popular among tourists here.
Places to visit Akkarakalam Memoirs takes tourists to historical churches and temples in Alappuzha and also offers a tour of the countryside on a bicycle to make it a lasting experience. Carmelia Haven is in close proximity with the Periyar Tiger Reserve that is in itself a haven for animal and bird watchers. It is also close to off-the-track tourist village of Gavi and the Idukki arch dam which is considered to be one of the tallest in the world.
Ride along the shores of countryside Spice Routes’ Cardamom, a super luxury houseboat with five star facilities, is taking you on a beautiful ride along the shores of the countryside. It has two
air-conditioned and splendidly decorated cozy rooms,Alleppey Green Bold and Njallany named after two varieties of cardamom. Both have bathrooms and toilets with quality accessories of international standard.
Kerala delicacies on board The kitchen on board serves you mouthwatering delicacies of Kerala, including karimeen, kappa and toddy. The Spice Routes crew also offers its guests exquisite local dishes like puttu, appam, dosa, etc. with curries like Alleppy Fish Curry and Chicken Manchurian. They also serve fruit juices, milk and eggs and exotic dishes on request.
Refreshing activities The spacious deck of Spice Routes Cardamom can accommodate over 50 people. In addition, tourists can also travel in rowing boats, fish in the waters and entertain themselves to several indoor games.Guided village walks, farm visits and toddy-taping are also there. Where to contact Spice Route Luxury Cruises No. 27/3057-A, Opposite Bhavans School, Girinagar, Kochi PIN: 682020 Phone: 0484 6003300, 6003301 Mobile: +919495219110, +918606000430 E-mail: info@spiceroutes.in Website: www.spiceroutes.in
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Luxury houseboat ride
LakeLands
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Cruises L
akeLands Cruises is the pioneer in the backwater tourism in Kerala having launched the state’s first super luxury boat and now owns a fleet of houseboats. LakeLands is providing quality service to its customers and has an exclusive tourist facilitation centre at Pallathuruthy, Alappuzha, where the tourists can experience a spectacular ride in thebackwaters. The company is also one of the first houseboat operators to be certified ISO 9001:2008 in the country.
Variety of beautiful routes The Kerala backwaters consist of an intricate network of lagoons, lakes and canals and LakeLands Cruises lets its customers choose from a wide variety of beautiful routes according to the suitability of their resources and time frame. Each route is comprehensive, unruffled and enjoyable in itself, extending an absolute experience of Kuttanad.
A/C conference hall & meeting rooms LakeLands’ Renjini was the first super luxury houseboat to set sail in the backwaters of Kerala. This houseboat is still the marquee of the group and attracts several tourists daily. Their Lakeshore is another sought- after houseboat with a capacity to accommodate about 100 people and has an airconditioned conference hall and meeting rooms for business needs.
Personalised dinner & lunch Wholly personalised dinner and lunch are on offer during a LakeLands cruise. Whether it is a Kerala cuisine or a multi-cuisine course, it is readily available here. If you are looking forward to a romantic outing in the backwaters, LakeLands has special honeymoon packages which are artistically planned to a couple’s liking. The package offers newly-weds drinks, fruit basket, flowers, cake and a candle-lit dinner complimented with a bottle of wine along with standard LakeLands services.
Refreshing activities The tourists who board LakeLands Cruises also have an option of a village walk. These trips are ideal for families or couples who would like to relax in a serene atmosphere of the backwaters. They can also canoe ride in the waters and visit the villages. Where to contact LakeLands Cruises Pvt. Ltd, No 503, LakeLands Buildings, Near Pallathuruthy Bridge, AC Road, Sanathanapuram, Alappuzha. Pin: 688003 Phone: +91-477-2268985, 2268986 E-mail: reservations@lakelandscruise.com Website: http://www.lakelandscruise.com
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Luxury houseboat ride
FRP houseboats
Established in 1990 with the production of just one fiber reinforced plastic glass houseboat, Samudra Shipyard has become the market leader after receiving orders from GCC nations Tony William
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s riding high Tony William
K
erala’s tourism industry woke up to a change in 2005 when the first houseboat made of Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) took its first voyage in the backwaters of Kerala. Samudra Shipyard (P) Ltd, an ISO 90012008 certified company located at Aroor, built the FRP boat for the Kerala Tourism Department in collaboration with IIT Madras, IIT Bombay, IIT Kharagpur, Houseboat Industry and Department of Science and Technology, Government of India. The project which costRs 1.5 crore won accolades for Samudra Shipyard which was already into production of power boats, passenger vessels, canoes, scooters etc. Samudra Shipyard was established in 1990 with the
production of just one FRP boat. Today, Samudra Shipyard has become the market leader after receiving orders from GCC nations. The group has now diversified into the area of waste management after a tie-up with Defence Research and Development Organisation (DRDO). The process is to set up bio digesters instead of septic tanks using DRDO technology which is maintenance free and has a life of 25 years. Samudra, one of the largest suppliers of FRP boats in the country, offers watercrafts for most applications. It has been manufacturing marine vessels since 1970 and has the credit of being the biggest steel/FRP fishing boat manufacturer in South India. Samudra designs, manufactures,
supplies and services FRP boats up to 34m for travel, tourism, defence and fishing. Over 55 models of watercrafts are available starting from 3.82m single man canoes to 34m, two and three bed room houseboats. Samudra is also into the manufacture of water sport equipment, marker buoys and other marine related products. Pointing out the cost of FRP glass boats, S Jeevan, CEO, Samudra Shipyard Pvt Ltd, said that earlier they cost more than traditional timber boats but today it changed due to non-availability of wood used for timber boats. “If you compare FRP glass boats with timber boats or stainless steel boats, FRP glass boats are most economical because they need no maintenance and can be easily made. Besides stronger than
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Luxury houseboat ride
Samudra designs, manufactures, supplies and services FRP boats up to 34m for travel, tourism, defence and fishing. Over 55 models of watercrafts are available starting from 3.82m single man canoes to 34m, two and three bed room houseboats. Samudra is also into manufacture of water sport equipment, marker buoys and other marine related products. steel and lighter than aluminium, it is highly stable, durable and elegant,” says Jeevan. The major clients of Samudra include Indian Navy, Ministry of Home, Indian Air force, Vikram Sarabhai Space Centre (VSSC), Coast Guard, Kerala Department of Agriculture and Kerala Agricultural University. Jeevan also points out that steel or timber boats deteriorate each year but FRP boats do not have this problem and its average life span is 25 years while that of steel boats is just eight years. About the challenges they face, Jeevan says that the transportation of houseboats is an issue they need to address. Often the length of houseboats makes it difficult to transport through road. They are also not designed to rough sea water. “The only remedy is to take it in parts and assemble them,” he adds. There are plans to install waste management system in houseboats with the help of DRDO to eradicate waste pollution in the backwaters.
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A full class houseboat developed by Samudra for Department of Tourism, Govt of Kerala, with a seating capacity of 44 is worth mentioned. Samudra Shipyard Pvt Ltd is under the effective leadership of S Harish
and S Arun (Brothers of Jeevan) who are in charge of administration and production respectively while Jeevan helms marketing. With the combined efforts of these brothers, it looks Samudra will sail in the Indian waters
GREEN PARADISE WAYANAD
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Wayanad revisited
Life is not just about the cities where technology keeps updating itself with the blink of an eye and no one has time to stand and look at the beauty of nature. A trip through the jungles of Wayanad will help you understand the forest and its people better Lakshmi Narayanan
W
ayanad is a forest land known for its scenic beauty that always attracts tourists with its tea and coffee estates, unique climate and rich tribal traditions. The area is also blessed with valleys, earth dams, waterfalls, and of course, wild forests. A journey through the mysterious land of tribal mores, and tribal villages spreading over six different locations, each of which has its own lifestyle, is an experience of a lifetime. Our travel through the Nellarachal tribal circuit seemed to be returning to nature. The Nellarachal tribal circuit comprises Nellarachal, Urav,Trikkaipatta, Adivaram, Karappuzha, Ambalavayal and Cheengeri villages. Known as the rice bowl of Wayanad in the past, Nellarachal is one of the main tourist destinations in the tribal circuit. The remains of a primitive culture and a prehistoric civilization can be found here. Urav, the world of bamboo Our first destination was Urav, the Bamboo village, 12 km from Kalpetta, a major town in the region. The abundant bamboo resources gives you a peek into the wonders one can create from bamboo like lamps, showcase ornaments, chariots, jewellery, bamboo bridges, flowers and even clocks. On an average, almost hundreds of tourists come here daily to check out the bamboo wonders. Rhythm of thudi The next destination in the circuit was Cheengeri which famous for the ethnic music of thudi, an instrument used for tribal marriages and other functions. We met Vellan Mooppan (Head of the tribe) there. He is the head of the Paniya tribe and a well-known thudi expert. He explained to tourists about the production of thudi. The instrument is built using the wood of a jackfruit tree and although the device is small, it takes 18 days to complete a single piece. The music from the thudi played by Vellan Mooppan was alluring.
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From left to right: Govindan Aashan demonstrating his archery skills to tourists at Ambalavayal. An ethnic chicken preparation Vellan Moopan at work on a Thudi at Cheengeri
Some tribes still practise archery even today and Govindan Aashan is one among them. He introduces various types of bows and arrows made of bamboos. Tribal paintings Moving away from Cheengeri, just 3 km away at Thrikkaipatta you get a chance to meet an extraordinary artist Rameshan. He represents the Kattunaykar tribe and when you enter his home, you realise why he is popular. His home looked like an art gallery with oil and water colour paintings along with some truly remarkable pencil drawings. A picture speaks a thousand words, they say. Through his paintings, you learn more about the rich tribal traditions and lifestyle. He specialises in traditions, rituals and mores of tribes. His paintings describe the centuries old existence of various tribes, and their evolution through the years. Rameshan gave a brief description of the paintings there. Karappuzha earth reservoir The next stop in the circuit was the Karappuzha reservoir, just 4 km from Rameshan’s house. Rocks, vast areas of grass lands and extensive water bodies will really make you squeal
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with delight. Karappuzha is the third largest earth dam in the world and it offers facilities for fishing and boating. The reservoir banks are surrounded by the thick forest which is the abode of nearly a thousand birds. Archery experts A 7-km journey from Karappuzha takes you to Ambalavayal. At Ambalavayal, one gets a chance to meet Govindan Aashan, head of the Kurichya tribe and an expert in archery. Some tribes still practise archery even today and Govindan Aashan is one among them. He introduces various types of bows and arrows made of bamboos. Delicious tribal cuisine Nellarachal is certainly the favourite place for foodies. One can also try his/her hand at tribal cuisine here. The mouthwatering aroma of chuttakozhi, a chicken delicacy and kallipitt, alone is enough for travelers to throng the village. The fact that all the ingredients are chemical free and are organic makes the dish exceptionally delicious. The other dishes here include kappa puzhungiyath, idichammanthi, meen pollichathu, kozhi varatiyathu, kondattam, choru, and payasam. The Gandhakashala Rice, available only in Wayanad, has an aroma that reminds you of jasmines and it is nutritious and healthy. Dessert is a glass of payasam made of mulayari (Bamboo rice). What makes it so special is that the main ingredient, bamboo rice, is available only once in 60 years and is quite nutritious. When you leave Wayanad after spending so much time rollicking in the jungles, you realise you understand nature and the people who live there better.
Other tourist attractions Banasura view point Soojippara waterfalls Wayanad heritage museum Edakkal caves Kuruva island Chembra peak Pazhassi tomb Thirunelli temple
Where to stay at Kalpetta Royal Palm Resort Green Gates Hotel Haritagiri Hotel & Ayurvedic Village
A unique cocktail
QUEEN OF BEACHES goa
of cultures
Goa is an irresistible locale for any tourists as it has the charm and flavor that a tourist seeks. Hallmark of this tourist place is its people themselves. Their laid back lifestyle and their love for beer and spicy food always remain a natural attraction for every kind of traveller
Vinoy Scaria James
Vinoy Scaria James
G
oa is captured by the lazy charm of the past and propelled by the energy of the modern times. The tiny state is a wonderful culmination of its smallness rooted in its culture and abundance that it offers. Its scenic natural beauty, lively beaches, churches and temples
with distinctive architecture serve a unique cocktail that could satisfy even the most demanding of travelers. With hospitality that comes naturally to the people of the land, its lively feasts and festivities, Goa can be simply irresistible catering to every kind of traveller. July 2013 travel & flavors
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History, culture and traditional roots of Goa are reflected in the architectural marvels that dot Panjim and Ponda. The architecture on show is a blend of Mauryan, Portuguese and Mughal style
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The lighthouse at Fort Aguada, Goa
The beaches here have their own individual stamp while retaining the overriding festivity and celebration of the land. The Vagator beach is the ultimate party halt, just as Calangute beach is the ideal pause for lovers of water sports. Paloleum beach is the ideal seashore to relax and enjoy the calmness of the sea. So is the Varca beach. The beaches of North Goa do get noisy at times given the merriment in the air. If leisure in calm is your flavour, it makes sense to drive southwards to the beaches of Paloleum, Cavelossium and Mobor. If you are the quintessential party animal, the beaches of the north like Vagator, Baga and Candolim are the halts. These beaches have wowed me on many an occasion. The beach that is closest to my heart is Dona Paula. With a twinge of romance and history, the beach lies at the joint where the Zuari River merges with the Mandovi River and confluences with the Arabian Sea. The beach is named after the late Paula Amaral Antonio de Souto Maior, a Portuguese lady of an affluent family. A lady of generosity, Dona Paula endeared herself to the local populace in her times. On her death, the local people renamed the beach as Dona Paula. Myth looms in the region that Dona Paula is seen emerging from the moonlit waves of the beach with a sparkling pearl necklace. Goa’s scenery is not just about beaches as the waterfalls and mountains that lie eastwards are a panorama buff’s delight. The Dudhsagar is the most prominent of the waterfalls in Goa. Located on the Mandovi River and bordering the
state of Karnataka, the Dudhsagar is a four-tiered waterfall. Milky white in appearance, it bears the sobriquet of Dudhsagar or river of milk. Falling over a thousand feet, the Dudhsagar back-dropped by the deciduous forests of Western Ghats is quite spectacular. The chirping of various species of birds adds to the grandeur of the place. Trekking along in the forests surrounding the falls is awesome. It is a pleasant trip up the foothills as the journey up the mountainous terrain is interspersed with tiny streams crisscrossing the pathway. The road comes to a halt about a kilometre away from the falls. The rest of the way on foot following pathways carved from the rock to the foot of the falls is a beautiful expedition. History, culture and traditional roots of Goa are reflected in the architectural marvels that dots Panjim and Ponda. The architecture on show is a blend of Mauryan, Portuguese and Mughal style. This endearing embrace of different cultures has given rise to a style of architecture that is uniquely Goan. Many ancient homes especially in and around Panjim are manifestations of the blend. Panjim is home to the Se Cathedral and Bom Basilica. Built around the 17th century this imposing architectural monuments are awe-inspiring. The Bom Basilica is a wonderful manifestation of the Baroque style of architecture. It houses the body of St. Francis Xavier, the patron saint of Goa. With magnificent statues and artifacts, Bom Basilica is a classic display of imaginative architecture. The coloured
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Ruins of St Augustine Church
The Goan food bowl largely consists of rice, seafood, coconut and spice. The vegetarian dishes are similar to that of the Saraswat Brahmins and consist of Urad dal, curry leaves and mustards window panes filling the Bascilla create an ethereal atmosphere with its subtle display of lights, shadows and reverence. Ponda is home to most of the ancient temples in Goa. Again showcasing the classic blend of cultures, the temple architecture is unique to Goa. The temples are a blend of the Maratha and Portuguese style of architecture. The temple that has been etched in my memory is the Mangeshi Temple. The calm serenity of the area around the temple builds on the aura of the amazingly beautiful temple. A foodie like me cannot but recollect the mouth watering cuisine that is so much a part of Goan culture. Goans love their food and the local preparations are irresistible and consuming. Primarily, a coastal destination, there is a rich assortment of fish dishes that are rich in local spices. The Goan food bowl largely consists of rice, seafood, coconut and spice. The vegetarian dishes are similar to that of the Saraswat Brahmins and consist of Urad dal, curry leaves and mustards. Less spicy than the non-vegetarian meals, they are also prepared with less oil and more of tamarind. Goan cuisine is, however, more allied with the richness of Catholic food. Seafood, pork fare and other meat items laced with douses of vinegar, Kokum spices and at times even wine ensure a mouth-watering palette. The Catholic food of Goa is a merger of its Hindu origin and the enormous influence of Portuguese colonisation. The influence of the Portuguese can be witnessed in the draw on
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potatoes, wine and vinegar in Goan cuisine. Even the use of cashew nuts and chilly in curry preparations can be attributed to the Portuguese influence. Many a visitor’s taste buds are enriched by these curries that are sour, spicy and at times even sweetened. My favourites are the sausages, croquettes, xacuti preparations and the spicy seafood curries laced with vinegar. The bebinca is the most famous of the sweets. A layered cake, the bebinca is made of coconut milk, egg, sugar and ghee. I seek not a pleasure more than an evening by the seaside restaurant, tearing into a Goan palette, with the accompanying mug of beer and the company of the warm Goan host. With almost 15 per cent of tourists arriving in India touching the shores of Goa, tourism is the prime industry in the state. The success of the Goa’s tourism story has an underlying factor that is all pervasive in the narrative -The people of Goa. Their ‘susegad’ or laidback nature added to their natural charm and innocence can be a wonderful antidote to the stressful times we live in today. Given the fun filled lives they lead, nothing seems to dampen the Susegad’s spirit. For the Goans marked by their natural flamboyance, life is a celebration on an unending drive. Easy going, helpful and friendly by nature, the Goan loves his beer and siesta. This jollity inevitably rubs off on the traveler, who feels highly rejuvenated after his sojourn to the emerald land of India. Goa and its people are a pleasure to embrace, leaving nostalgic memories to revisit.
musical feast amphi festival
GET READY FOR
ROCK ‘N’ ROLL Get ready for rock ‘n’ roll. The stage is all set for the popular Amphi Festival to be held in Germany from July 21 to 22. Don’t miss the chance to enjoy the musical extravaganza Tony William
T
he eighth edition of the Amphi Festival will be held from July 21 to 22 at Tanzbrunnen in Cologne, the fourth largest city of Germany. The festival that will feature electro music artistes, future pop artistes, medieval rock and gothic rock artistes from across Europe is known for its alternative and dark music. The record number of visitors who attended the festival last year is a proof of the popularity of the Amphi Festival- and that astounding number stands at
16,000 per day. The first Amphi Festival took place at the AmphiTheatre in Gelsenkirchen, Germany, giving way to the festival’s name but since 2006, Tanzbrunnen in Cologne has been the site of the festival. Several bands perform both on the open-air stage as well as the indoor stage. In the evening, you can enjoy a disco programme as well as readings and theatre productions. The Amphi Festival is one of the most successful
events. Not many festivals can claim such an achievement. The eighth edition of the event is also no different. One month before the event, all tickets were sold out. The camping tickets (For affordable accommodation on the camping ground) have also been nearly sold out. Orkus Magazine (The German music and culture magazine published by Zoomia Media group) is the official sponsor of the festival and releases DVDs of the event in its issues at the end of every year.
The Amphi Festival is one of the most successful events. Not many festivals can claim such an achievement. The eighth edition of the event won’t be different
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into the wild Tadoba Andhari
Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the top 10 wildlife photographers of the world
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Tadoba Andh Tiger Projectari
Maharashtra’s oldest and the largest nationa One of India’s 41 l park “Project Tiger” reserves
Tiger, Tiger Burning Bright!!
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wo female tiger cubs are sitting on a road in TadobaAndhari Tiger Reserve in Chandrapur district of Maharashtra. Often described as “The Jewel of Vidharba”, Tadoba is a pristine and unique eco-system. It is one of the best tiger reserves in India where the tiger population has been increasing rapidly for the last few years. This is the only tiger reserve open throughout the year. Inside the reserve, one can explore the two beautiful lakes, Telia and Tadoba. Other than tigers, one can get to see varieties of wildlifedole (Wild dog) langur, sloth bear, spotted deer and gaur. Tadoba is also home to around 300 species of birds. Summer is the best time to visit, and winter for bird-watching. This photograph was taken in May 2012.
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strange travellers
Expedition on foot, bicycle It is the undying human spirit to explore the unknown and experience the extremes that makes this geography teacher undertake expeditions on foot and bicycle through the most inhospitable terrains like Siberia Tony William
W
hether it is teaching geography in classroom or travelling across the world on a bicycle, Rob Lilwall has done it all. Walking 5,000 km all the way from Mongolia to Hong Kong carrying a weight of 25 kg and cycling 35,000 miles through one of the coldest regions on Earth, Rob dares to do things that we can barely imagine. Rob Lilwall believes the perfect way for a geography teacher to explore the world is travelling. So, in 2004, this geography teacher packed his bags with his bicycle and took a flight to the far eastern edge of Siberia to cycle all his way back home, London. During his expedition, he camped at -40o C in Siberia, dragged his bike through jungles in Papua New Guinea, braved the lonely
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passes of Afghanistan, got robbed at gunpoint, caught malaria and even met his wife-to-be. Recalling his experiences, Rob wrote a book ‘Cycling home from Siberia’ and the National Geographic channel made a television series from his self-filmed video footage. He also undertook an adventurous journey on foot which covered 5,000 km through Mongolia, China to Hong Kong (Where he now resides). This time, he had a companion to film the whole journey-Leon McCaron, a northern Irish adventurer and cameraman. Both completed their winter expedition in May 26, 2012. Even in the most extreme locations, such as crossing Siberia in winter where the lowest recorded temperature is -710, he was able to carry more than 40 kg of gear
July 2013
Rob Lilwall believes the perfect way for a geography teacher to explore the world is travelling. So, in 2004, this geography teacher packed his bags with his bicycle and took a flight to the far eastern edge of Siberia to cycle all his way back home, London
without a problem. The Mongolian journey was not an easy one as one had to carry a 25-kg kit which included camera gear and supplies. Together, Rob and Leon ventured out from the wastelands of Outer Mongolia, passed through the Gobi desert and crossed into China. They reached the legendary city of Xi following the Yellow river before hiking the snow-covered peaks of Central China to reach Hong Kong. For Rob, the most enjoyable aspect of any hike is getting far away from civilization. He followed tiny paths and scrambled up slopes. Robtoday is a renowned motivational speaker, writer, adventure career, and a fundraiser for the charity Viva that works with children at risk around the world.
Rob Lilwall