Travel and flavors August 2013

August 2013 KERENG02406 www.travelandflavors.com

Exploring the architectural marvels of the Roman era

Wildlife and lush greenery as you’ve never seen before

Regal Rome

Islands

Three destinations to explore when it pours

Galapagos

Monsoon

Magic UAE - AED 7 US - $5 India - `50

Cambodia

Delightful Khmerian cuisine

Pushkar

Recapturing the world famous Pushkar fair

Seychelles

Crystal blue beaches and solitude

Explore. Dream. Discover.

World Travel Brands Award for Best Upcoming Spa Resort in Kerala 2012

IIA Asian Paints Gold Leaf Award for Excellence in Architecture 2012

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contents

Cover photo: A tourist basking in the sun at Galapagos Islands

54

cover story

Monsoon Magic The sky is overcast with dark clouds, strong winds sweep across and it is about to rain. Monsoon has arrived in South India and we take you to three destinations that are best explored during monsoon, especially if you’re looking for an adventure holiday

Exploring Darwin’s Wonderland A trip to Galapagos Islands does not offer you the quintessential attractions but could turn out to be a wildlife enthusiast’s idea of a holiday. The wildlife you come across here is one of the most attractive and diverse in the world and for that reason, Galapagos ranks amongst the destinations most sought after by wildlife lovers

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46 Imperial city of Rome Rome is one of those places where you still find remnants of the past staring at you from every corner. With a rich legacy of the Roman Empire and architectural wonders like the Pantheon and the Flavian Amphitheatre, it is hardly surprising that those coming here continue to be awed by the power of the ancient Roman emperors

Photo of the month 10 Travel News 12 Events Calendar 14 Unique Festivals 15 My shot 19 The Buddha story told in sculptures 24

The Dambulla Cave temples in Sri Lanka are a wonder in stone and a visual treat



Cruising with Silversea 30

Silversea Cruises offers you world class luxury and the voyage of a lifetime

Thus Spake the Shots 34 Luodai China

Alwar has many things in store for visitors 36

Explore the palaces and forts of ancient kingdoms and the Sariska Tiger Reserve

Dancing bamboos, meandering roads 44 Seychelles: A fairytale island getaway 51

A remote Island with pristine sands and exotic beaches awaits you in Seychelles

Brewing up all types of tea 67

Tea lovers will find their dreams come true with My Tea House, Bengaluru

Khmerian cuisine ups your palate 68

In this column, Shweta Ganesh Kumar explores the Khmerian cuisine

Impeccable land of Nagas 72

Suresh Joseph continues his journey through the North East, into the land of Nagas

40 Summer in Marseille One of the oldest cities in France, Marseille will call out to those looking to escape into a rejuvenating and relaxing holiday. The city offers you not just a myriad experience but crossing each of the landmark around the old port and the narrow lanes steeped in history is also something you most certainly shouldn’t give a miss

75 A tale of Bhaktapur, the Malla kingdom

A look at the sights and sounds of Bhaktapur, a city of temples in Nepal

78 ‘Haunted’ Poenari Castle in Transylvania

Vlad the Impaler’s castle is a nightmare for Translyvanians even today and we tell you why

82 In the land of penguins and kangaroos

Karnika E Yaswant embarks on a spectacular journey to Melbourne

85 Pilgrimage to Hasratbal Mosque

Hasratbal is one of the most important Islamic pilgrimage centres in India as the mosque is said to be preserving the sacred relic

88 Pushkar festival recaptured

Recapturing the annual five-day Pushkar fair which has become world famous with its unique ambience amidst the magical sands of Rajasthan

91 Stage set to rock music lovers

Leeds and Reading are hosting one of the most popular music festivals in the UK with famous rock bands performing in it

92 Largest ice skating rink at Lulu Mall 94 Encroachers not welcome

The wildlife in Ngorongoro National Park, Tanzania, is a treat for the eyes

96 Into the Wild by Rathika Ramasamy 98 An officer and a traveller

PG Tenzing took a brave decision to quit his IAS post to explore his passion for travelling

Volume 1 Issue 5 | August 2013 Founder & editor Ravi Deecee Executive Editor Ratheema Ravi DC MEDIA - OPERATIONS

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DC Media Publication www.travelandflavors.com

contributors Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the world’s top 10 wildlife photgraphers

Leen Thobias is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography

Suresh Joseph is a triple postgraduate in Economics, Management and Industrial Relations. He has authored two books and presently he is a Consultant and Mentor based in Kochi, Kerala

Shweta Ganesh Kumar is a travel columnist and the bestselling author of Coming Up On the Show and Between The Headlines, two novels on the Indian broadcast news industry

Richi Mohanty is a postgraduate in Industrial Designing. She is an ardent traveller and writer based in New Delhi

Karnika E Yaswanth is a naturalist and is involved in several projects which seek to stop the destruction of natural habitat due to human negligence

Amit Kishor Subedi is an avid traveller and documentary film maker based in Pokhara, Nepal. He is involved in documentaries which promote art and culture in Nepal

8

travel & flavors August 2013

letter from the editor

T

ravelling to ancient cities and religious centres in different continents is very common, but a trip to a so-called haunted castle only to experience the horror looks strange. They seem to enjoy the thrill of being in such a place popularised by fairytales and horror dramas. What really lead people to the places shrouded in mysteries?

Usually, there could be several stories surrounding such places and in a sense these stories make the places more popular than what they actually deserve to be.

Poenari Castle in Transylvania, Romania, is said to be a haunted place and drawing a number of visitors from around the world every year. Renovated by King Vlad III in the 15th century, the castle on a cliff is gigantic and has a unique style of construction. It is a fact that the castle has resemblance to Bran Castle in Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula. Further, the fictional character Count Dracula has striking similarities with Vlad the Impaler. Read the story ‘Haunted’ Poenari Castle in Transylvania’ in this issue to know all about the castle and its master.

A travel to the charming hill stations during monsoon will lift your spirits, providing you an opportunity to see the nature with a quite different appeal. The cover story ‘Monsoon Magic’ takes you to three important hill stations - Chembra, Coonoor and Nandi- in South India that you would love to visit when it pours.

‘Imperial city of Rome’ throws light on the development of Rome through different periods, particularly during the great Roman Empire, and the contributions of Renaissance artists. The city of Rome is famous for its architectural wonders like Colossuem and Pantheon. Even today, people can watch these monumental buildings only with awe and admiration. They point to the remarkable skills of the people of the bygone era.

Tea lovers have a reason to rejoice. My Tea House in Bengaluru will treat you to all types of tea along with tasty homemade snacks. ‘Brewing up all types of tea’ provides all information regarding the shop exclusively for tea. Don’t forget to visit My Tea Shop on your next trip to Bengaluru.

photo of the month

Al Jahili Fort which lies southeast of Al Ain City was built in 1898 by Sheikh Zayed The First. The fort, a symbol of the United Arab Emirates’ cultural legacy,is attracting tourists from around the world.

By: Raju Kolapuram

August 2013 travel & flavors

11

Travel News

News World Travel

Rhode Island International Film Festival from Aug 6 Rhode Island (US): The Rhode Island International Film Festival will be held from August 6 to 11 in Rhode Island, US. The six-day festival is expected to attract a large number of film buffs, movie directors, scriptwriters and film critics from Hollywood and across the world.

Beach festival of Newquay to begin on Aug 7 Cornwall (UK): The annual beach festival of Newquay, England, will be held from August 7 to 11 in Cornwall. The five-day celebration of music and surfing is expected to draw big names of jazz music like Basement Jaxx, the Vaccines and Ben Howard.

Surf competitions and skating contests will also be held.

Helsinki Festival to begin on Aug 16 Helsinki (Finland): The annual Helsinki Festival will begin on August 16 in Finland. The festival, which will conclude in the first week of September will bring together maestros in the creative arts.

The main aim of the festival is to promote arts.

Travel and Tourism Fair from Aug 16 Ahmedabad (India): Travel and Tourism Fair will be held in Ahmedabad from August 16 to 18. The three-day fair which will be held at Gujarat University Exhibition Hall is one of India’s leading exhibitions on travel and tourism. It is an opportunity for organisations from India and abroad to showcase their products and services to a large section of experts from the travel and trade industry.

World Travel Awards Gala to be held on Aug 31 Antalya (Turkey): The Europe Edition of the World Travel Awards Gala Ceremony will be held on August 31 in Cornelia Diamond Golf Resort & Spa at Antalya, Turkey. The gala ceremony and cocktail dinner will have the participation of many renowned experts from the travel and tourism industry in Europe. The nominees for this year’s Travel Awards, Europe Edition, will be announced on the occasion.

Kerala Tourism Department Newsletter wins PATA award Beijing: Kerala Tourism Department’s e-Newsletter has won the Gold Award for 2013 instituted by the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) . The e-Newsletter receives this award for the second time in a row. The award will be presented at a ceremony to be held at Chengdu, China, on September 15, 2013.

Seattle Tattoo Expo from Aug 9 Seattle (US): A one of its kind tattoo expo will be held at Seattle Centre Armory in Seattle, Washington, from August 9 to 11. The two-day tattoo expo brings together lovers of tattoo artistry and those curious about the art of tattooing.

Belgium Edition of F1 Grand Prix from Aug 23 Brussels: The Belgium Edition of the F1 Grand Prix will be held at the Circuit de SpaFrancorchamps Spa from August 23 to 25. The Belgium edition of F1 Grand Prix is considered one of the world’s most prominent motorsport racing competitions.

August 2013 travel & flavors

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Travel events Events travel

International Balloon Fiesta

AUGUST Events Calendar DATE

EVENT

August 1-10

Cante de las Minas Flamenco Festival

Murcia, Spain

August 1-28

Hungry Ghost Festival

China

August 4

Liar’s Festival

Moncrabeau, France

August 4-11

Medieval Week

Visby, Sweden

August 5-11

Gucca Trumpet Festival

Gucca, Serbia

August 7-9

Terraneo Festival

Sibenik, Croatia

August 8-11

International Balloon Fiesta

Bristol

August 8-10

Way Out West Festival

Sweden

August 10

Nehru Trophy Boat Race

Kerala, India

August 10-12

Puck Fair

Ireland

LOCATION

August 15 Independence Day India August 16

The Helsinki Festival

Finland

August 17

Aste Nagusia (Semana Grande)

Bilbao, Spain

August 18 Jashn Afghanistan August 20

Istvan’s Day

Hungary

August 23-25

The American Folk Festival

Maine

August 25

Feast of the Madonna of the Letter

Palmi, Italy

August 26 Burning Man Nevada August 28 La Tomatina Bunol, Spain August 30 Children’s Day Afghanistan August 30

St. Rose of Lima Day

Lima, Peru

August 31

Cowal Highland Gathering

Dunoon, Scotland

14 travel & flavors

August 2013

Unique Festivals

C Painting the town

red literally!

It is really fun to be a part of Spain’s popular tomato festival which has nothing to do with religious ceremonies. Anyone who abide by the safety regulations can participate in the fest

m

L

o aT

a

in at

When: August 28 Where: Bunol

oming to the town of Bunol in Spain on August 28, you shouldn’t be surprised if a tomato lands on your face splashing you with pulp. It’s not that the people are inhospitable. You’ve just chosen to come on the day when Bunol celebrates the annual Tomato Fiesta- the La Tomatina. It’s a day when no one is spared the tomato onslaught and you may have to either flee or join to escape the incoming tomato attack.

On the day of the festival, at around 10 am, celebrations kick starts with the ‘palo jamón, a ceremonial pole-climbing. Participants are expected to climb a greasy pole with a ham on top of it. As the participants attempt this near impossible task, the crowds break into ceremonial singing and dancing as they are hit with jets of water from large hoses. After someone actually drops a ham from one of the poles, a signal indicating the start of the tomato festival is given with water shots fired into the air and trucks make their entry. At around 11, a loud shot rings out and chaos ensues, with

the eager crowds pelting each other with squashed tomatoes. Participants are required to wear gloves and goggles for safety reasons and one of the main rules of the festival is that the tomatoes have to be crushed before they are thrown so as to avoid injury.

An hour later, a second shot is fired in the air to indicate the end of the festival after which trucks reappear to spray the participants with water.

The festival has its origin in 1945 during a parade where youngsters who wished to participate in the event staged a brawl in the town’s main square, the Plaza del Pueblo.

Spotting a vegetable stand nearby, they picked up tomatoes and used them as weapons. It was the timely intervention of the police that prevented a fight and some believe that this incident can be attributed to the origin of the Tomatina festival.

In following years, the same incident was repeated on the last Wednesday of August and due to its widespread popularity, the festival became official from 1957 with a few safety regulations established for the participants.

Unique Festivals

T

aoist Chinese have high regards for superstitions which tell that in the month of August, the ‘gates of hell’ are kept open to let loose the souls of the dead.

This is the very essence of the Hungry Ghost Festival celebrated by the Chinese.

This year, the festival falls on August 28.

The festival in the seventh month of the Chinese calendar is mired in beliefs and superstitions that existed in many parts of South East Asia. It is believed that the ghosts visit Earth seeking food and entertainment. These ghosts are believed to be ancestors of those who have not paid tribute to them after they died. It is said that these ghosts sport long needle like necks because they have not been fed properly. So, the people offer food, drink and many things to compensate for the shortcomings.

There are instances where people burn down materialistic items like

16 travel & flavors

August 2013

televisions, cars and paper houses to appease the ghosts. Families also pay tribute to the wandering ghosts and hold feast on the day before the actual festival to ward off bad luck and special seats are reserved in community prayer centres because the spirits are said to be making their appearances there.

Buddhists and Taoists also hold religious ceremonies to relieve ghosts of sufferings. Many of these ceremonies are held at night or in the afternoon as the gates of hell are believed to be opened only after sunset. After 14 days, lanterns are set outside homes to ensure that the ghosts find their way back to hell. When the lanterns go out, it symbolises the safe passage of the ghosts.

Although the festival seems a little spooky, it is widely celebrated by both Buddhists and Taoists and many nations in the region follow their own local traditions to commemorate the festival.

Keeping ghosts

in good humour Ghosts are very much alive in granny’s tales and children fear them in skinny shape. So what about grownups? They are also afraid of ghosts. The only way to escape their wrath is to offer them a sumptuous dinner along with some ambrosia.

This is what the Chinese are doing

Hungry Ghost Festival

When: August 28 Where: China

O

ne of Ireland’s oldest fairs, the Puck Fair is held for three days from August 10. Bizarre as it sounds,this event draws a lot of people to Ireland during these days. A visitor to the event may think that the world has gone haywire.

The festival still follows quite a tradition. Prior to the festival, a group of people from the village go up the mountains to catch a wild goat. The captured goat is brought to the town. ‘Queen Puck’, a young girl from a local school, crowns the wild goat the ‘King Puck’. The ‘King’ is then placed in a small cage in the middle of the town square. It signifies that the festivities for Puck Fair have begun. During these days, the local pubs are open till 3 am. As per the custom, a horse fair takes place on the first day of the fest and on the second day, a cattle fair takes place. One can usually find a lot

of street vendors during the fair and the tourists who may not be keen on cattle, poultry or horse fairs would jump at the chance of getting some souvenirs.

As per records, the origin of Puck Fair can be traced back to 1603 when King James I issued a legal status to the fair. According to the legend attributed to the origin of the fair, a goat broke away from its herd to warn the inhabitants of the village about the impending invasion of Oliver Cromwell during the 17th century. Thanks to the goat’s warning the villagers were able to defend themselves.

Scholars speculate that the fair may have originated in the Pre Christian Ireland when a similar Celtic festival called Lughnasa was celebrated. The fact that Lughnasa symbolised the harvest season and that the goat was a pagan fertility symbol adds to the speculation regarding Puck Fair.

Goat’s day out On August 10 every year, a wild goat becomes a celebrity and is crowned the king as part of the annual Puck Fair at Killorglin in County Kerry, Ireland

Puc

k Fa

ir

When: August 10 Where: Ireland

Unique Festivals

When: August 4-11 Where: Visby, Sweden

Medieval Week

Swedish town reminiscent of medieval times A week-long festival at Visby takes you to the medieval times.

The bygone era comes alive in the Swedish town with the people wearing medieval clothes, markets and streets recreated

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August 2013

W

hen you come to Visby in August, you may find yourself wondering whether you’re gone back in time or the town itself has been frozen in the medieval times.

Visby, one of the historical towns of Sweden, pays tribute to a bygone era through the annual Medieval Week held for a week from August 4 to 11.

It is hardly surprising that such an unusual festival is celebrated here because Visby is one of the best preserved cities of Scandinavia and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The festival aims at promoting the city as a major tourist destination and has gradually gained widespread popularity in Sweden as well as Europe. During the festival week, Visby comes alive with its 200 medieval homes, winding lanes and church ruins decked up and is indeed a spectacle for all to see.

The people dress up and act as if time has literally frozen. There are knights, courtships and the ancient traditions of Europe on display.

Bright colours, parades, fire shows and guided tours through the

significant historical monuments of the town are part of the week-long festival.

Begun in 1984, the festival also called Medeltidsveckan in Swedish seems to have gained popularity with the passage of time and is today one of the biggest medieval events of Europe, partly due to the significance of Visby as hot tourist destination. The organisers of the festival come up with innovative ways to draw tourists to the festival every year. The most interesting part of the festival is the people who wear clothes true to the medieval times, specifically the 14th century. The ancient walls which surround the city make the festival of Medeltidsveckan more visually appealing. With so much of history all around you, it is hardly a surprise to see an actor dressed as King Valdemar Atterdag walking around collecting taxes from the locals, mimicking the actual events of the time. The town markets are recreated. There are even makeshift stadiums for the knights to joust each other and arenas where theatre festivals and operas take place.

MY SHOT

Chitra Priyadarshini is a student of journalism at the University of Calicut, Kerala

ANYTHING FOR YOU: A boy swimming back after plucking a lotus in a pond at a village in Karnal, Haryana.

August 2013 travel & flavors

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MY SHOT

Arun Subash is a software engineer based in Kochi, Kerala.

REMNANTS OF THE PAST: One of the favourite tourist locations in Kerala, Fort Kochi on the Arabian coast houses a number of Chinese fishing nets which have become almost defunct. Nowadays, these are just tourist objects.

Jojo K Joseph is a reporter with an architecture magazine in Kerala

FLOATING OBJECT: A cruise liner sails past a Chinese fishing net at Fort Kochi, Kerala. Cruise ships from different countries are a common sight here these days.

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August 2013

Sugeeth Sudhendran is an engineering graduate and an ardent traveller from Kerala

ZERO VISIBILITY: A foggy day at Talai Kaveri, considered the source of the Cauvery River, near Bhagamandala in Kodagu district of Karnataka.

George

Thengummoottil

is a software engineer and technical consultant from Kerala

SERENE SHRINE: A view of Buddhist Stupa in the morning at Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh.

August 2013 travel & flavors

21

MY SHOT

Tony William works as a reporter with DC Media

DESERT SAFARI: A plain land with the setting sun in the background in Little Rann of Kutch, the only place where you can find the wild ass.

Send us your pictures and tell us the stories behind them. email: editorial@dcmediacorp.com

22 travel & flavors

August 2013

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Picture Story Dambulla Cave Temple

Leen Thobias

is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography

24 travel & flavors

August 2013

The Buddha story unveiled in sculptures Dambulla Cave Temple also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla is a world heritage site in Sri Lanka. Situated in the central part of the country, it is the largest and best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka.

Paschima Viharaya This cave is called Paschima Viharaya or the Western Temple which has 10 figures of the Buddha. The principal image which is under a torana is of the same size as the other statues. The other images are in a row at the right and the left of the principal image.

There is a neat stupa called Soma Cetiya in the middle of the cave

The Dambulla Cave Temple in Sri Lanka is a place where you find the statues of Lord Buddha in a different look. The sheer beauty of the place is bound to take your breath away

August 2013 travel & flavors

25

Picture Story Dambulla Cave Temple

26 travel & flavors

August 2013

Deva Raja Viharaya Cave No. l is called Dev-Raja-viharaya (Temple of the King of Gods) because it is believed that the God Sakka gave finishing touches to the principal image of this cave.

This image depicts the parinibbana (The last moment) of the Buddha.

In the northern corner of the cave, opposite the principal image, there is a statue of Vishnu.

August 2013 travel & flavors

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Picture Story Dambulla Cave Temple

28 travel & flavors

August 2013

Maha Raja Viharaya The largest and the most impressive one amongst the caves is Cave No. 2 which is called Maha Raja Viltaraya (The temple of the Great King). The cave is painted all over in brilliant colours and every part is neatly maintained.

The principal figure is beautifully sculptured with sturdy features and massive limbs.

August 2013 travel & flavors

29

Cruise Journey Silversea Cruises

Cruising with

Silversea

Silversea Cruises based in Monaco caters to the cosmopolitan world travellers and gives its guests the most off the beaten path locations with an expert expedition team enriching your experience on board

P

Tony William

erfecting the art of travel as their ad claims, the luxury cruise line Silversea has six ships in its fleet- Silver Cloud, Silver Wind, Silver Shadow, Silver Whisper, Silver Spirit, Silver Explorer and Silver Galapagos. From quality service to exquisite gourmet dining, each allinclusive Silversea cruise liner reflects the distinctive European style and has all ocean view suites. Intimate spaces and well-travelled, international guests foster a cordial onboard ambience. Bulgari bath products, Egyptian cloth linens and butler services are an added luxury and in each destination, Silversea provides access to exclusive explorations and uniquely enriching cultural connections.

Photo courtesy: Silversea Cruises

Unique ships The greatest advantage of Silversea is that smaller ships ensure entry to most of the far flung ports. Each cruise has got unique advantages like the Silver Whisper cruise ship where you can savour a convivial cosmopolitan ambience and special amenities usually found only on larger ships, including boutique shopping, a wellness spa with beauty salon, fitness centre and sauna, full-scale productions in a multi-tiered show lounge, an Internet Café and WiFi service from stem to stern.

Silversea’s purpose-built Silver Explorer expedition ship (Formerly the Prince Albert II) has been designed specifically for navigating in some of the world’s most remote destinations. A strengthened hull with a Lloyd’s Register ice-class notation (1A) for passenger vessels enables it to safely push through ice floes with ease. A fleet of Zodiac boats allows Silversea Expedition guests to visit even the most remote

August 2013 travel & flavors

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Cruise Journey Silversea Cruises

Guests aboard welcomed with Champagne

Suite interiors of Silversea Cruises

Interiors of Silversea Cruises

locations and an expert expedition team provides insight for each Silver Explorer cruise adventure.

Silver Spirit, the newest vessel in the Silversea family, has in store Stars Supper Club, an Asian-themed restaurant, an expansive 8,300-square foot spa, a resort-style pool, four whirlpools, and the largest suites in the Silversea fleet -95 per cent with private verandas- for its guests.

The newest addition to Silversea’s fleet of ultra-luxury ships- the Silver Galapagos- has already won the hearts of cruise lovers with its sleek lines and a proven skill for navigating the waterways throughout the Galápagos Islands with in-depth explorations of this spectacular region.

North Atlantic adventure The 17-day voyage exploring the North Atlantic on Silver Explorer starts on September 8, 2013 from Kangerlussuaq to Halifax, Nova Scotia and Canada. Special attractions include guests meeting a sledge dog team and their owners, cruise

by Zodiac among floating icebergs, knowing the Inuit culture and their lasting traditions, watching the famous Qilakitsoq mummies, exploring Medieval Norse sites and the historic Fortress of Louisbourg, experiencing a traditional Viking feast, visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites -L’Anse aux Meadows and Gros Morne, identifying birds, including osprey, and a colony of 122,000 northern gannets and visiting Mingan Archipelago. The voyage will cost minimum $9,450 per individual.

West Indies expedition The West Indies expedition in Silver Explorer will cover Explore La Romana, Dominican Republic, Bridgetown and Barbados which will start on October 2, 2013. Indulge yourselves in the idyllic powdery white sand beaches of Cruz Bay, St John, US Virgin Islands. Snorkel, swim and kayak amidst colourful fish and coral reefs or hike along scenic botanical nature trails of Anegada Island and British Virgin Islands. Observe Montserrat’s exclusion zone by Zodiac or watch whales and dolphins at

View from the deck

Les Saintes, Guadeloupe. Visit Fort Napolean, learn about endangered Hawksbill turtles and listen to native stories and traditional music of Bequia.

Robin West leads the expedition team of Silver Explorer along with Chris Cutler, General Naturalist, Dr Claire Allum, Anthropologist, Dr. Hans-Peter Reinthaler, Biologist, Dr Maria Patricia Silva Rodriguez and Jarda Versloot, Assistant Expedition Leader. The cost of seven-day voyage for an individual starts at $3,050.

Silversea’s Annual World Cruise In 2014, Silver Whisper will host Silversea’s Annual World Cruise, sailing for 113 days from Los Angeles to Barcelona. Crafted in direct response to Venetian Society members’ expressed desires, Silversea’s World Cruise 2014 itinerary will encompass 54 ports of call and 29 countries, with 12 overnight stays and late-night departures. The attractions include $5,000 Onboard Spending Credit, per double occupancy suite, a Gala Bon Voyage reception and dinner with overnight accommodation at a luxury Beverly Hills hotel on January 5, 2014 and three World Cruise Events- the Rising Dragon in Hong Kong, Sunset over Angkor Wat in Bangkok and Supper in a Sultan’s Palace in Istanbul.

Two Complimentary Silversea Experiences to Fanning Island, Kiribati and Alotao, Papua New Guinea, are also there to enhance your majestic cruise journey.

Silversea which has offices in the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and Singapore has won several awards, including Condé Nast Traveller, UK award for Best Small Ship Cruise Line in the past 10 years, Condé Nast Traveler, US award for Best Small Ship Cruise Line for the nine consecutive years and Luxury Travel Magazine Gold List Awards – Australia- for the Best Luxury Cruise Line from 2006 to 2012.

Manfredi Lefebvre D’Ovidio, Chairman, Silversea Cruises, said: “Every Silversea voyage is a journey of discovery, benvenuti a bordo (welcome on board).”

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Thus Spake the shots Luodai

Not all, but a few Chinese cities still exude the old world charm. Luodai, an ancient town with a rich culture and long history, is one among them

Luodai exuding

old world

charm Shajee Kitangoth

Y

ou find yourself back in time as you step in the vibrant streets of Luodai, China. You wonder if you’re actually back during the days of ancient Chinese old timers sitting outside their homes, sweet tea in hand.

This is a city that seems to be straight out of those folklores and when you come here, you may find yourself looking all around, mesmerised by what you see. Luodai is an ancient town with a rich culture and long history. When you come here, historical relics telling you about the rich culture of the city still remains.

The whole town consists of one street and seven alleys. The main street is floored with slab stones while the seven alleys crisscross the streets on both sides. The four guildhalls are of great historical importance and is a true artistic wonder making it a site under national protection.

The guildhall’s architecture is a blend of both Ming and Qing dynasties with delicate carvings and images of dragons, phoenixes and birds. The town can be visited all year round but is especially appealing during summer, the fruit season. During this time, a wide range of fruits like pears, grapes and peaches are available.

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Travel Blog Alwar

Alwar has many things in

store for visitors

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Richi Mohanty he winter months were passing as we sat and looked into the glaring screens of our laptops. As spontaneous as all our plans are, one evening the idea was carved, detailed and floated around. We had efficient bikes, a strong will and abundant time with us. If you want an interesting getaway, use a little common sense, calculator and Google maps to figure out for yourself and don’t rely on books and travel tours.

Using the tools we decided on Alwar, a small city in the large state of Rajasthan. Alwar has a Rajputana background and is 156 km away from Delhi. Historically, Alwar was one of the few states still under the Rajput kingdom, rebelling successfully

against the Mughals. The city is on a hilly terrain, the highest of which is guarded by a magnificent fort.

Alwar has a lot of things in and around the city for one to see. The most popular ones are the fort within the city itself; Bhangarh ruins, a haunted city; Sariska Tiger reserve, a 26-km drive from the main city and the Siliserh lake, a must see in the city. The other attractions are Chattri of Moosi rani, which took nine years to complete, the City Palace with a pond within and Sariska Palace, now converted into a luxury hotel.

The plan Leave early in the morning on the bike to Alwar, to arrive just in time for the Sariska Tiger Reserve

safari and then move into the hotel for refreshments and rest. The next morning we would leave for the most haunted place in IndiaBhangarh, an entire city that was cursed and is haunted till date.

Sariska has an open Gypsy safari option for six people in one for Rs 2,410 for three hours. There are two trips in a day- from 6 am to 10 am and from 2 pm to 6 pm. The reserve is open for the month of OctoberJune.

The plan is always perfect with a beautifully sketched out timeline.

When you start filling the colours in the sketched outline, that’s when

you realise that some colours are fading, some even missing. In a matter of few hours, the picture changes character with choices pertinent to each situation. Our first colour for the journey was Delay.

A setback Instead of the healthy start early in the morning, we started a little late in the morning giving us a setback of ‘no stops till we reach’.

But that was not to be the call of the day as one of the bikes broke down and the first halt was unavoidable.

In this case right on top of the fast moving NH-8 flyover, two people

Elk cooling itself in the mud

Alwar has a lot of things in and around the city for one to see.

The most popular ones are the fort within the city itself; Bhangarh ruins, a haunted city; Sariska Tiger Reserve, a 26-km drive from the main city, and the Siliserh Lake

Langoor at the Reserve

Travel Blog Alwar

LOOKING INTO FUTURE:A young rhesus macaque in Sariska Tiger Reserve

Safari through Sariska Tiger Reserve

Tourists on the way to Sariska Tiger Reserve

somehow maneuvered the bike to the far away exit. The mechanic was located at the exit, eating away about two hours of our time in procuring parts and fixing the broken down bike.

Thus began the long hours on two wheels balancing the excitement level of actually embarking on the bike ride with the urge to stretch every few hours. Halts were made at appropriate moments to fill stomachs, discourage sleep and fatigue and ask for directions. The landscape flanked on the sides constantly changed from glass buildings, to small markets, to barren lands and slowly gave way to the beautiful mustard fields.

Once in Alwar, we started the search for the RTDC hotel, about 12km away from the main city. We were told to expect a lake with hotels. The picture we had was a small lake with a street on one side crowded with hotels all along the way.

Suddenly, we were woken up from a bad dream, and horrible expectation. First, the lake was huge. The street was on an altitude, making the entire drive a scenic beauty in itself.

And the street was not crowded with hotels or even people.

The RTDC Lake Palace Hotel is an old Havelli renovated into a hotel. The hotel was astounding especially when we saw from the boat from the middle of the lake. (Boating is open till 6 pm). The hotel not only looked spooky, but living in it was little eerie too. There was no communication network, one landline at the reception, no intercoms, and electricity was an hourly guest (Frequent blackout).

Huge verandas and courtyards were bereft of human life even though we were told all rooms were booked. TV was working to some magic channel only and monkeys jumping on the AC constantly. The dinner served covered up for all the eeriness that the place exuberated. The hours before the night were spent in gaiety, merry making and scaring each other. The night was spent at attempting sleep with our heads filled to the brim with the scary stories we had narrated.

But the sit-out in the veranda if not thought about the ghosts was serene and very satisfying. The lake was a calm picture and the silhouette of the hills around contained our vision, not letting it fly away to the horizon.

The morning started late and the plans were rearranged to suit the travel schedule ahead of us. Bhangarh was ditched when we got our hopes up for catching a glimpse of a tiger instead. So we had great filling breakfast at the hotel and headed to Sariska Tiger Reserve. After a few hours of waiting, we finally got the tickets and got into the Gypsy.

It was a long safari and we caught many wildlife activities.

The dance of a peacock, birds fishing in lake, langoor who would not let the jeeps pass without a check and the most interesting, the mudbath of a sambar deer. We were also attacked by the birds on approaching food at a stop point and we got a little mortified with the birds so close to us with their angry eyes. Someone got the game just right, Angry Birds. Soon the safari was over with us only catching a pug mark of a tiger and we started our journey back to Delhi.

Bhangarh Ruins, we’ll come to you too one day. If you have more time on your hands, you could see the ruins and stay in Sariska Palace too. Hope you have a great trip and carry warm clothes for the night is cold!

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City in Antiquity Marseille

Summer in Dr KJ Venugopal

F

rance is beckoning again!

There is an air of fascination and somnolent exquisiteness about the French that entices one to return to this wonderful land of natural beauty, history, art and culture. One is lured to the vivid but soft contours of its countryside, fragrant waft, flushing meadows, blushing gardens, beautiful beaches and more that bear the rich French tradition. For an admirer of beauty, this country offers a lot, often surprising you by its indolent yet intense sense of creativity. So, it was only natural that joyous anticipation filled my heart when an invitation landed to visit France again.

For a change though, it was during the summer that I was destined to travel this time. I recollected that my last visit was in the middle of a chilly winter when

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nature was hibernating under a white mantle of snow; while frosty winds blew across, streams of snow silently piled up on streets and pavements in the night, and the Eiffel Tower faintly smiled through its white robe at a distance. But this time, nature was in a pleasant mood altogether. The sky was a blue carpet embroidered with white fluffy clouds; the streets were bustling with people, pacing around on pavements and frequently swarming the roadside cafes for an occasional break. Though one of the hottest in their memory, this summer had most certainly brightened up the air, and the clear and beautiful French landscapes were brightly displayed all over.

Port city beckons

I landed in the south of France, in Marseille, a port city nestled on

the southeast coast of France on the Mediterranean Sea, which is France’s largest commercial port and the préfecture de region (Administrative capital) of the Proence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. Two large forts flank the entrance to the old port - Fort SaintNicolas on the south side and Fort Saint-Jean on the north. Marseille with a population of around a million is France’s most populous city after Paris. Its climate and lifestyle are ideal for a perfect French holiday, exhibiting a typically Mediterranean climate with long summer/holiday season and mild winter.

Back in time

Standing on the Vieux Port, facing the calm and blue waters of the sea, I tried to recollect the history of Marseille. Founded in 600 BC by the Greeks as a trading port with

Marseille the name Massalia, it is the oldest city in France and has occupied a prominent place during major eras of French history. The French national anthem is actually the march-song of the Marseillian volunteers sent out to defend the revolutionary government during the French revolution. The rise of the French Empire and the conquests made by France from 1830 are clearly reflected in many of its monuments, such as the Napoleonic obelisk at Mazargues and the royal triumphal arch on the Place Jules Guesde.

Traveller’s paradise

Marseille offers myriad experience for travellers of all sorts. Moving around is quite easy in trams provided with audio commentary, which take you along

the roads, crossing each landmark around the old port and winding up the mountains through narrow lanes that are steeped in history.

The town planners seemed so sensitive to the unique culture, aesthetics and history of the place that I could not stop thinking about their counterparts back in India!

The Basilica of Notre-Damede-la-Gard loomed large atop the hills to the south of the old port as a watchman, and posed a mammoth sight from below. This 19th century Basilica, built by the architect Esperandieu, is an enormous Romano-Byzantine structure and offers spectacular panoramic views of Marseille and its surroundings, stretching far beyond into the sea.

Spoilt for choice by the numerous sights, I had to select

the most significant ones to make the best of my time. The Old Port or Vieux-Port, the main harbour and marina of the city, was my first choice. It is also one of the main places to eat in the city. Dozens of cafĂŠs line the waterfront, which include Indian restaurants as well, serving authentic Indian cuisine! Decked closed to each other on the waters off the port are several yachts, adding a unique and marvellous sight to the rich spectacle of the shore. The Phare de Sainte Marie, a lighthouse on the inlet to the old port, stands as a referral point for the thousands of people who merrily move around the port.

As there are plenty of unique and spectacular museums, I selected a few such as the MusĂŠe

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City in Antiquity Marseille

Ratatouille

Marseille offers myriad experience for travellers of all sorts. Moving around is quite easy in trams provided with audio commentary, which take you along the roads, crossing each landmark around the old port and winding up the mountains through narrow lanes that are steeped in history

Notre Dame de la garde in Marseille

Pastis, a local beverage

de la Mode (Museum of Modern Fashion), the Musée Cantini (Museum of Modern Art housing artworks associated with Marseille and several works by Picasso) and the Musée des Beaux (The Arts and the Natural History Museum housed in the two wings of the 19th century Palais Longchamp) which were built on a grand scale in Italianate colonnade style and rise up behind a vast monumental fountain with cascading waterfalls.

In the evening, I decided to take a boat ride around the islands of the Frioul archipelago in the Bay of Marseille which are accessible by ferry from the old port. The prison of Château d’If, situated in these islands, was the setting for The Count of Monte Cristo, by Alexandre Dumas.

Tantalising the taste buds

The city centre in Marseille, France

How can you forget to mention food and drink while writing about France?

Exquisite French delicacies are offered in the numerous cafes in and around the city.

One of the popular dishes in this region is swordfish in olive oil with ratatouille and saffron rice. Pastis, an alcoholic beverage made with aniseed and spice, is an appealing offer showcasing one more facet of the diversity of French cuisine.

On board the aircraft back home from Marseille, I realised that reminiscence of this French fiesta would remain etched in my memory; and that this journey has transformed my appreciation of human civilisation to rise above national and cultural precincts.

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Green Fantasy Arashiyama

Lakshmi Narayanan

Arashiyama, a scenic land on the outskirts of Kyoto, Japan, beckons travellers around the world for a memorable walk in the naturally protected bamboo forest

Dancing bamboos,

meandering roads‌

I

f you have a passion for the ‘Green’, then the Arashiyama bamboo forest, one among the world’s best and largest bamboo gardens, is the place for you. Arashiyama is small when compared to other forests but the tall and lanky bamboo trees form a natural tunnel for a person to walk through and is a sight to behold. It is an ideal travel destination for those who are out to capture the world through the lens and is considered to be one of the best destinations for nature photography.

Arashiyama is situated 10 km from Kyoto in Japan and the forest has long been a picturesque leisure spot surrounded by mountains and Oi River. The forest is located at the end of Tenryujia Temple built in 1339, a famous historical destination in Kyoto. It is also one of the 14 World Heritage Sites in Kyoto.

Majority of the tourists coming here prefer walking through the meandering roads of the bamboo forest, so that they can see the bamboos dancing in the breeze and listen to the soothing rustling tune.

The forest gets crowded during spring and autumn, especially during the period of cherry blossom and fall foliage, because that’s when the forest blooms in all its beauty. During summer and winter, the area is quieter and tranquil.

Other attractions Monkey Park Boat hire Shigureden poetry museum

Getting there The best way to reach here is to take JR train from the Kyoto station.

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Exploring the past Rome

Rome Imperial city of

“Rome was not built in day� goes the famous phrase. It took several centuries to build the city of Rome and the empire has left indelible marks across territories which were under its control. What makes Rome so peculiar is that the remains of its monumental buildings and the renaissance paintings as well as sculptures create a lasting impression on visitors even today

Savithri S Iyer

W

hen you set foot on the ancient city of Rome, you can feel the difference. The streets, the people, the remains of the historic buildings and many other things will remind you of the days of the Roman Empire. The city is known to have existed since Biblical times and has been the seat of the Papacy since the first century AD. It is the only city in the world which has a state within- the enclave of the Vatican.

When you enter the visual wonder that is Rome, you realise why historians and archaeologists make such a big deal of the city and its stunning monuments. History books and even Hollywood flicks stress on that point but seeing it firsthand is truly awe-inspiring.

Since it was established in 753 BC by Romulus, several emperors and statesmen have made their mark on the city. During the middle ages, it was ruled by the papacy and the renaissance and reformation saw the city grow as the leading centre of culture and arts. The city became a major pilgrimage centre during that time and

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Exploring the past Rome often saw clashes between the papacy and the monarchy starting from Charlemagne.

The Italian Renaissance was focused more on Florence than on Rome during the latter half of the 15th century but the Vatican with a view to make the city grander began construction of extravagant churches, bridges, squares and public spaces. It was during World War I that Rome began to witness more changes. Under the rule of Mussolini, Rome was annexed into the fascist state which had alliances with Nazi Germany. After his fall, Rome was officially a part of Italy and became the capital of both Italy and the Vatican City.

imposing figure.

The Pantheon

The spectacular Pantheon built almost 1,800 years ago is another imposing structure in the city. The name refers to the fact that the building was once a temple for the Roman Gods. With its thick brick walls and large marble columns, the Pantheon takes your breath away and the most remarkable feature is the 43-metre high dome, one of the largest domes in the world. The front portico has three rows of columns and The Flavian Amphitheatre the huge bronze door gives visitors The visual appeal of Rome finds no access to the cylindrical building. The parallels in Europe and it is a photographer’s temple was converted into a church in delight. One can find a wide range of AD 609 and now contains the tombs architectural marvels from the classical period of the acclaimed Renaissance artist to Renaissance times. The classical style saw Raphael and a few Italian monarchs. the construction of various monuments, many of which stand testimony to the might of Roman Empire. Perhaps, the most famous of these attractions is the ruin of the magnificent Colossuem. Originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre, it was built by Emperor Vespian, the founder of the Flavian Dynasty.

The elliptical building is quite immense and measures 188 m and more than 159 ft high.

The imposing structure was graced with more than 150 larger than life statues on the arches of the upper floors. The amphitheatre could accommodate nearly 55,000 spectators who entered it through any of the staggering 80 entrances. The building also contained rooms with mechanical devices and cages which held wild animals. When you stand there, looking around, you may feel overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the building and the people who ruled the empire. Today, it is in shambles but even then cuts quite an

Stay Hotel XX Settembre-Near Teatro dell’Opera di Roma St. Peter’s Hotel & Spa -Near St. Peter’s Basilica Hotel Palladium PalaceNear Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore Hotel Borromeo-Near the Flavian Amphitheatre

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St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City

The massive Arch of Constantine built after the great ruler’s victory in the battle of Maximus is a sight that you cannot take your eyes from as is the Arch of Titus. The Piazza di Spagna, the Capitoline and the Castle Sant Angleo are also attractions one cannot miss.

Forum Romanum The Forum Romanum is the kind of place one would have expected Mark Antony of Julius Caesar to deliver his famous oration. Coming here, you may find your jaws dropping to the floor. During the rule of the Roman monarchs, the Forum was the epicenter of activity and this can be seen through the remains of the triumphal arches, temples and basilicas there. Today, Forum

Michelangelo’s paintings inside Sistine Chapel

Michelangelo’s David

A couple visiting Forum Romanum

Reach Largest Airport: Leonardo Da Vinci International Airport Road: Roman Municipal Bus and Tramways Company connect all the major locations of Rome Rail: Metro rail called ‘Metropolitana’ runs at regular intervals

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Exploring the past Rome Romanum is in shambles but once you step around and catch a glimpse of the ruins in the area, you can just imagine what the place had looked like then. The ruins of Curia Julia, the location of many senatorial meetings, the triumphal arches, the famous Rostra, a speaker’s platform and the setting of Mark Antony’s famous oration at Caesar’s funeral, the temples dedicated to the Roman God, Saturn along with triumphant kings who wished to be immortalised in stone like Vespian, Titus, Castor and Pollux are all sights that tourists cannot not resist visiting.

Palatine Hill One of the central figures relating to the founding of Rome, the Palatine Hill is the most famous archaeological site in the city. Archaeological evidences suggest that the hill has been inhabited right from the 10th century BC. The remains of a home, believed to be that of Augustus, the first emperor of Rome, stresses on the importance of the hill in Roman history. The hill has several ruins of palaces and other landmarks like the Baths of Septimus Severus, ruins of an imperial garden, the Palace of Domitan, the House of Livia, and probably the greatest archaeological site in Rome, the hut of Romulus himself. The ruins on the hill include the Temple of Apollo and the Temple of Cybele. At the north west of Palatine Hill, one can also spot the ruins of the Palace of Tiberius, built in the first century AD. All in all, a visit to the remnants of Palatine Hill will make you realise why the hill, the most important of the legendary seven hills, has such an important place for the Romans.

Pilgrimage Centre

Interiors of St. Peter’s Basilica

Rome occupies an important spot as a pilgrimage centre thanks to the Vatican City which is the spiritual centre for Roman Catholics across the globe. Tourists come to the city through the St. Peter’s Square, one of the most famous sites in the city of Rome. The square was laid out by Bernini during the papacy of Alexander VII and Clement IX. Standing in the middle of the square, you’ll find a whopping 83 ft. tall Egyptian obelisk brought to Rome in 38 AD. The fountains on either side of the obelisk give it an appealing look.

Thousands of devotees gather here seeking blessings from the Pope and participate in masses on religious holidays. The St Peter’s Basilica, the most attractive site of Vatican, is the most important church in the world. The beauty of the Basilica, the spectacular altars and the sculptures inside the church will stun even ordinary visitors. The ceiling of the church was made eternal with the masterpieces of Michelangelo and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The Vatican Museums house some of the most attractive artworks of the time and is a must visit. The artworks there include those of Raphael and perhaps the most famous one of all, the fresco in the Sistine Chapel ‘Creation of Man’ by Michelangelo.

It is no wonder that Rome was one of the most important cities of ancient times and was the seat of the most powerful empire of Europe. The remains of the erstwhile empire speak for itself and it is something that a visitor is least likely to forget.

Breathtaking refuge seychelles

Seychelles

A fairytale island getaway Seychelles is all about experiencing nature’s extravaganza without compromising on your privacy.

Exotic locales await you here and it’s an experience you shouldn’t forgo

I

n Greek mythology, Maia refers to one of the Pleiades, although a fitting description of the place would be maya or illusion. Maia isn’t a private island but creates an illusion of one, wrapped in its own private exclusivity. Maia presents the sheer sophistication of simplicity but the story behind this effortless luxury is isn’t simple. Maia is all about villas equipped with private butlers who even clean them, thus dispensing with the intrusive enfilade of sundry staff.

Maia mercifully banishes buffets. Instead, at breakfast, the buffet boards your table in boats of viennoiserie that seem to have jet-setted from France. The Thai

Devanshi Mody and Arabic cuisine trump but Wine Sign’s fun- if you can suffer the opinionated lady sommelier who suffers no opposition. Safer to pick herbs from the garden which pastry chef Narayan deploys in rich chocolate ganache. He’s the finest pâtissier in Seychelles. And he isn’t even French, but Indian!

Indeed, he reveals he grew up in a Mumbai slum, worked 18-20 hrs as a carpenter and once found himself in a Mumbai 5-star hotel kitchen where the pastry chef remarked his craftsmanship, got him carving ice and vegetable sculptures and suddenly he was implemented in the pastry department. And so went Narayan from carpenter to commie to Executive Pastry Chef of

Maia, one of the most private and exclusive address in the Seychelles, if not the world!

After high tea in the birdencircled tree house, elevating experience, I aim for something higher and trek to Mont Signal past vast, barren rock surfaces.

Enchanted by the spectacular sight here, one naturally wishes to linger. I embark on what seems to be the route and wind my way into an entanglement of swooning branches, stumble over humped earth, slash my legs against whipping weeds. After what seems aeons, I emerge into a clearing- only to find three arrows pointing in conflicting directions, with no certain indication towards

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Breathtaking refuge seychelles

civilisation. I slip on one and see a curtain of branches closed before me, so I set off on the second path, which leads never-endingly. I retrace my steps past the brooding banyans back to Mont Signal. If I desperately wanted to see a snake in the previous evening, I perhaps felt one as something slithered away under my step.

From Mont Signal, now enveloped in gloom, I fumble on the route I came up. It has rained, and I’m sliding down bald rocks into water-filled crevices.

I find my footing on a rock, only to find it gets up and hisses at me. It’s a turtle/tortoise, I can’t say in the dark.

If before I was scared to only put my foot in my mouth, now I am scared to put my foot anywhere.

I’m in no mood for new French Chef Arnaud’s supper. But his delicate preparations appease my appetite.

Besides the epicurean, there’s the teasing innovation of his salads -think vinaigrette’s of hibiscus, ylang-ylang, fig & cashew- all tossed with produce from his gardens.

Desroches Private Island is a place where BMW’s owner slips away just launched superbly appointed villas to rent if you can spare Euros 9,000/ night or buy if you have superfluous cash. Picnic on asparagus and avocado sandwiches in wind-whipped spectacular locations. But the coolest kulfis (saffron, mango, rose) lure you back to Indian Pastry Chef Sandeep.

Four Seasons is the trendiest spot in Seychelles where you’d be combating with Arabian royals, Russian oligarchs and honeymooners.

A stunner spa is perched on lofty

A beach view from Seychelles

heights. Italian glass-pebbled chairs sit by floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking magnificent views. Allow the gracile Elirose, but 19, to transport you to further heights with her Fusion Massage whilst yogi Vishal imparts spiritual high.

Dennis Pvt Island is a delightful 30-villad dot on the ocean that prescribes self-sufficiency and has a burgeoning farm. Buffets pulsate with farm-fresh milk, fruit, vegetables and meat. Fresh, fragrant home-style cuisine beckons society’s cream.

Vibrant salads wink enticingly; a succulent pig like in Asterix cartoons billows by warm buxom breads redolently home-baked to have with farm-made cheeses. You’d trade gold nuggets for those chunky all-butter cookies, about six sorts, unleashed at breakfast and one must try them all, naturally. At lunch and dinner, the remorseless enticement of home-style desserts continues. During supper, GM Salvatore’s Italian exuberance exacerbates the assailment of dolce.

St Anne’s Private Island offers the most romantic restaurants in Seychelles, the waterfront raised and dressed-for-supper Le Mont Fleuri presenting haute cuisine and rustic beachfront Robinson so enchantingly candlelit. The view from your table is of Mahé, 10 minutes away by boat, and civilisation. But the adventurous should embark on a 4-hr island tour that takes you into serene beaches accessible via steep forests. The minibar is free, but the bartender at Le Sans Souci Bar will knock you some Théodore de Paris iced teas.

Reach

Air: Direct flights from major Indian cities *Etihad(www.etihad.com) has launched a Seychelles route via Abu Dhabi Sea: Cruises from major Indian ports

A woman relaxing in a swimming pool

A couple enjoying the sunset

A beach at Seychelles

A tourist with a giant Tortoise

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Cover story monsoon hideouts

Monsoon Magic

D Monsoon has a magical effect on both mind and body. When rivers and other water bodies are full, the sky is overcast with dark clouds and plants toss their heads in strong winds during the season, hilarious joy will overwhelm people who long to sing and dance. A travel during the time, especially to the hill stations, gives you chances to see the nature with a quite different appeal Jose Jacob & Savithri S Iyer

ark clouds loom in the sky, birds rush home, darkness stretches over the vast expanse of the earth, the winds gain speed and with a mighty roar, the downpour begins along the coast of Arabian Sea. Monsoon makes a grand entry into the southern India, bringing much relief to the drought-hit regions. At the same time, the monsoon fury wreaks havoc across the region, flattening houses and flooding low-lying areas.

Monsoon is one of the best seasons in India for travel. If you don’t mind getting wet a bit, you can enjoy the splendour of monsoon. Naturally beautiful hills and valleys appear splendid in a totally different ambience.

Drenching in the spectacular scenic beauty of hill stations is an amazing experience. Here, we bring you three destinations in South India that you would love to visit when it pours.

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Cover story monsoon hideouts

Captivating Chembra

T

he first sight of her left me charmed.

There she was covered in a thin blanket of mist. But my admiration was cut short by a question from my house owner.

“Sure you wanna go?”

The house owner, a lady, couldn’t digest my idea of trekking Chembra in monsoon.

“The path would be all slippery due to the heavy rain. You might also get insect bites,” she warned.

In fact, the rainy season does not attract many tourists to Chembra due to, as the house owner told me, the path would be slippery and trekking would be very difficult. And why should one attempt such a feat? The answer is simple; Chembra, the highest place in Wayanad and situated 2,100m above sea level, looks its best during monsoon. Actually, it is a different Chembra during these rainy days.

The sky was overcast when I reached Meppadi, a small town near the Chembra peak. From there, I had to travel 7 km to reach the base. Soon I realised that my enthusiasm was not shared by the rickshaw-walas who refused to take me to the base.

“Sir, the road is in a bad shape with knee deep potholes all over. We will get stuck on the way,” an autorickshaw driver said. Whatever the condition of the road, I decided to travel to

View from Chembra

the base to start trekking the hill.

At my insistence, one driver showed the courage to come with me. It was a bumpy ride and as they said, the road was uneven and full of huge potholes. After 15 minutes of juggling in the autorickshaw, I found myself at the base. It was drizzling when I got down from the rickshaw. A trekking guide directed me to the nearby watchtower which serves as a base camp for the trek. A two-hour climb awaited me.

A carved a path welcomed me to the uphill. Then I found myself wondering what had urged me to take up this Herculean task. Narrow streams of icy cold water came trickling down; surrounded by rocks it formed tiny fresh water pools along the way. The trek got a little adventurous where huge rocks blocked the path. The valley has one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. The lake that naturally formed in the shape of a heart is surrounded by plants. It looked like a pebble in the green ocean. For a while standing atop the hill, I forgot about the hardships during the climb, including the leech bites on my leg.

There was mist all around but it only made the place look more gorgeous. The mist was clearing up slowly, and Chembra was revealed in all its beauty.

The road leading up to the base camp

HOW TO REACH Road: Bus services available from Ooty, Mysore and Kozhikode Rail: Nearest railway station, Kozhikode, 78 km away Air: Karipur International Airport, Kozhikode

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Cover story monsoon hideouts

Streets of Coonoor after sunset

Bisons grazing at a tea estate

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Mystifying Coonoor

A

trip to Coonoor seemed to be a spontaneous decision for a weekend. Travelling to the small colonial town was a long cherished plan and monsoon obviously added to the thrill. Thus I landed in Coonoor on a mizzling afternoon. The small hill town had somehow preserved its colonial grandeur. The century-old structures were still there amidst exquisite Nilgiri tea gardens. An evening walk upon arrival proved to be the best way to explore the town. I noticed that most of the buildings here are from the colonial era, some well preserved and others wearing down in time. The English names of the places were still retained. It was quite odd to read sign boards which directed me to “Bed Ford” or “Lady Canning’s Seat” in a Tamil town.

A hunt for the famous homemade chocolates led me to the shop named Chocolate Tree. The sight of chocolate buns, cakes and a number of other chocolate delicacies made me realise that I was in the right place to begin with. Thousands of electric lamps formed a shining carpet under an overcast sky as I walked back to my hotel, thinking about the next day. In the next morning, the cab took me to Sims Park, a hundred-yearold botanical garden. The garden established in 1874 has of a large variety of trees from different parts of the world. A stroll through the ancient tree garden was a unique experience.

My journey continued to the two magnificent viewpoints in Coonoor, The Lamb’s Rock and Dolphin Nose. My cab sped cutting a black line through the lush green carpet formed by the tea gardens which seemed to be meticulously placed over the small hills.

The cab came to a sudden halt, with the driver screaming “Saa..r BISON…”. Three wild buffalos slowly emerged from the forest surrounding the tea gardens, as I got out of the car.

These amazing creatures were grazing freely unnerved by a group of ladies working in the tea gardens. I was informed later that Bisons were a regular sight in the tea estates. This incident had given me a reason to chat with my driver in my poor Tamil and his quirky English. When I expressed my desire to taste the famous Nilgiri tea, he took me to a local tea shop near Dolphin Nose. I had decided that I would make my return trip through the mountain railways. I had heard quite a bit about the legendary rail system begun by the British in 1897 during their rule and the station is en route to the Ooty-Mettupalayam line. Now preserved as a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO, the 19-km rail line led me through small rock tunnels to the spectacular views of the Nilgiris.

Nilgiri tea

Walkway leading to the Lambs Rock view point

HOW TO REACH Road: Bus service available from Coimbatore, Bengaluru and Kozhikode to Ooty. State Transport buses will take you to Coonoor Rail: Nearest railway station, Coimbatore, 54 km away Air: Coimbatore Peelamedu Airport

DON’T MISS The delicious and perky homemade chocolates The heritage toy train ride Sree Lakshmi Hotel where you can catch the history of Coonoor on the walls Taste the Nilgiri tea

Famous homemade chocolates

Cover story monsoon hideouts

On the way to Nandi Hills

Tourists climbing the steps leading to the view point

Zipping through Nandi

A

bike ride to Nandi Hills is the best way to chill out on a weekend in Bengaluru. All geared up, we set out early in the morning.

The light breeze caressed our faces as we raced against the rising sun which made its shy appearance between the clouds. We were leaving the city behind along with all its rush and mess.

As you go uphill, you will be greeted by the sight of local women selling grapes. The vineyards here are quite popular amongst tourists and they’re to be tried by all those who come here.

My trip would have been meaningless had I decided to be a conventional traveller refusing to take risks. To say that I was awestruck and mesmerized would be the biggest understatement of the year and a cliché to boot.

But it was true. Nothing could have prepared me for the sight in front of me. The only thing that made me realise I wasn’t dreaming was the chill spreading all over me … the breeze. The mist was all I could see around me. It seemed to be caressing every tree, every branch and everything around it. My eyes took in everything as I zoomed past the jungle cover and into the arched gate welcoming me to Nandi. There were plenty of people in cars and bikes like me trudging along the stone pathway.

The pathway, the trees around and the

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manmade structures make the place look more like a park. I lost track of time and location as I made my way. I did not have enough words to describe the surreality of the place. A little ahead, I saw the quirky looking bamboo sheds, built on a raised platform. I trudged along again and the cold became more obvious. I saw two small shrines dedicated to Nandi. I was still revelling in the sight ahead of me and was grasping the rich canvas of nature.

“She certainly is an enchantress,” I thought.

I closed my eyes and felt the chilly breeze stroking my face. A little ahead, I saw yet another Nandi shrine. My treacherous feet were in danger of protesting but I fought on. At last, I was there at the ancient Nandi temple atop its namesake.

It certainly was serene. Right in the same compound is a railing from where you can enjoy the sight of the hills. You can also spend some time in the botanical gardens or spot the origin of the Arkavati river or even laze away your time in Tipu’s summer house.

Nandi is about spending some quality time in the great outdoors and appreciating nature’s beauty. When you go back, you feel refreshed. I looked up at Nandi as I hopped onto my bike and drove off and felt a deep sense of tranquillity and relaxation.

HOW TO REACH Road: Regular bus service from Nandigrama, Bengaluru and Chikkaballapur Rail: Nearest railway station, Chikkaballapur, 9 km away from Nandi Air: Bangalore International Airport

DON’T MISS Tasting grapes from the roadside vendors

A local woman selling grapes

Misty walkway at Nandi Hills

wonderland Galapagos

Wond A land that no man would dare maul is surrounded by active volcanoes in the Pacific Ocean. An encounter with the flora and fauna of Galapagos Islands which are reminiscent of the lost world will uncover the mystery regarding these islands Lakshmi Narayanan

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Exploring Darwin’s

erland G

alapagos discovered by renowned scientist Charles Darwin and consisting of 19 beautiful isles in the Pacific Ocean, 1,000 km from South America has been dubbed a unique ‘living museum and showcase of evolution’. This island wonder located at the convergence of three ocean currents is known asa melting pot of marine species. The land, surrounded by active volcanoes, often sees dramatic changes and formation of new islands due to the ongoing seismic and volcanic activities there.

We can literally call it a mysterious wonderland because other than natural beauty, the flora and fauna of this region is different from other parts of the world. It’s a comparatively less explored area and is out of reach for travellers.Tourists come here to see a variety of creatures like giant tortoises, sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas and different bird species. Volcán Wolf on Isla Isabela, 1707 m (5,600ft) the highest mountain amongst the islands is another attraction here.

Exotic wildlife

Watching the wildlife in the beautiful natural setting is awesome.

The giant tortoise or the Geochelone elephantopus is the most famous inhabitant of the island.

Giant tortoise Can you imagine a tortoise weighing nearly 270kg in dark brown?

Such tortoises are very common in Galapagos and those who risk coming here are indeed fortunate to catch a glimpse of these gentle giants. These August 2013 travel & flavors

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wonderland Galapagos creatures can live for 100-150 years. Capable of surviving longer periods without food or water, the tortoises certainly enjoy water when it is available. There were around 1,00,000 tortoises here, but now only 10,000 tortoises remain. The eggs they lay are collected from Pinzón Island, hatched at the station, and raised until they are large enough to fend for themselves. They are then returned to Pinzon. The Galapagos National Park also owns a few giant tortoises for the visitors.

These are the world’s largest tortoises with some specimens measuring 5 feet (1.5 metre) in length. They lead an uncomplicated life, grazing on grass, leaves, and cactus, basking in the sun, and sleeping nearly 16 hours a day. A slow metabolism and large internal stores of water mean they can survive up to a year without eating or drinking.

Sea lions Watching the sea lions at play in Galapagos Islands is a great pleasure. They are one of the most conspicuous marine mammals in Galapagos with a length of 150- 250 cm and weighing around 400 kg. They spend a lot of time swimming in the ocean whereas on land they prefer sandy beaches and flat rocky areas that have plenty of shade and tidal pools. They are known as Pagos Sea Lion.

Their inquisitive and social nature makes them approach areas inhabited by humans, and thus come into contact with human waste, fishing nets, and hooks.

Marine Iguana

Land iguanas Land iguanas resembling lizards and chameleons are one of the scariest creatures here.

It is common in Galápagos Islands and can also be seen in the islands of Fernandina, Isabela, Santa Cruz, North Seymour, Baltra, and South Plaza.

There are mainly two species of land iguana found in Galapagos Islands, the Conolophus subcristatus found in Six Islands and Conolophus pallidus found only in Santa Fe. These creatures are mainly found in black, brown, yellow and rust brown all with white blotches. They seem active during daytime and maintain their body temperature by basking in the sun and seeking shade when they feel hot.

Marine iguanas Marine iguanas are similar to land iguanas in appearance, but differ in nature. They can dive over 9m (30 ft) into the water. Black lava rocks are the main resting points of the marine iguana.

It mainly lives on the rocky Galápagos shore, but can also be spotted in marshes and mangrove beaches. The greyish and blackish colour of these creatures will make anyone chilling as they’re not pretty, with their wide-set eyes, smashed-in faces, spiky dorsal scales, and knotty, salt-encrusted heads.

Lava lizards Lava lizards also fall in the category of Galapagos reptiles and are one of the most outstanding creatures that make Galapagos an

Galapagos penguin

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A tourist approaching a sea lion

Lava lizard enchanted archipelago. Lava lizards, found in all of the Islands, are with a steady mid to dark green and brown colouration on the body and a combination of darker lines or spots on the sides. These creatures have a life expectancy rate of 10 years.

Bottle nosed dolphins These dolphins are smaller than most whale species and possess streamlined bodies, usually with a prominent, centrally placed dorsal fin, and a protruding beak. Like any other dolphins, these are also very friendly to the visitors.

The long and narrow dolphin points stretching towards the sea mouth is more than enough to captivate the sight of travellers. The greyish skin tone with an extraordinary glow differentiates bottle nosed dolphins from the common dolphins.

Penguins

Bottlenose dolphin

Tourists exploring the South Plaza island

The Galapagos penguins are the third smallest species of penguins in the world and the most distinctive as it lives further north than any other penguin species. Ninety percent of Galapagos penguins live among the western islands of Fernandina and Isabela.They can also be seen in Santiago, Bartolome, northern Santa Cruz, and Floreana. They are quite different from other penguins in size and colour.

Land iguana

wonderland Galapagos

How to reach Take an international flight to Ecuador, to arrive either at the city of Quito (In the Andes Mountain Region) or at the city of Guayaquil (In the Coast), and take a domestic flight out to Galapagos Islands.

There are two daily flights from the Ecuador main station to Galapagos San Cristobal Island.

Fact file • • •

•

Home of abundant fearless wildlife, visitors can get up close and personal to some of the world’s rarest animals The endemic Galapagos marine iguana is the only lizard to swim in the ocean Galapagos was home to the only surviving giant Pinta tortoise, ‘Lonesome George’ which died in June 2012 In 1978, UNESCO designated Galapagos as the first World Heritage Site

The upper torso of these creatures is black and white and surrounded by an inverted horseshoe shape with a thin white line that curves from their eye down to their throat.

Bird watching When we reach Galapagos, we come to realise that the fauna found here is unique. The birds of Galapagos are completely different in size, colour, sound, nature and way of life. There are 29 land bird species, of which 22 are endemic—most famously the 13 species of Darwin’s finch. Bird watching is a major activity experienced here by the tourists. The main bird types found in this region are: • Galápagos Heron • Flightless Cormorant

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Galápagos Hawk Galápagos Rail Galápagos Dove Large-billed Flycatcher Galápagos Mockingbird Floreana Mockingbird Hood Mockingbird San Cristóbal Mockingbird Large Ground-finch Medium Ground-finch Small Ground-finch Sharp-beaked Ground-finch Common Cactus-finch Large Cactus-finch Vegetarian Finch Large Tree-finch Medium Tree-finch Small Tree-finch

When to visit Due to isolation and position on the equator, Galapagos can be visited all year round. Sea mammals and land birds are most active during the dry season and there are many sea bird courtship exhibits.

Great Frigate Bird sitting on a branch with a not inflated pouch

Galapagos Giant Tortoise

Exploring Flavors My Tea House

p u g in of w e Br types all

Shalet

James

W

e Indians are obsessed with drinking hot tea every day.

For some people, it is an energy drink which keeps them fresh throughout the day and for some, it is an addiction. Imagine if you could spend hours enjoying different varieties of tea.

Tea visit My Along , u r lu a Beng iety. u are in s tea of any var an o y n e h W ve uc hich ser acks, yo House w homemade sn e last sip e th with som favourite tea to ur enjoy yo

Your wish will be granted when you come to My Tea House in Bengaluru, a place where you can find tea in all its glory.

My Tea House, a restaurant on the Ring Road, Banashankari Third Stage, Bengaluru, entices customers with varieties of tea and munchies. Masala tea, Assam tea and Darjeeling tea are the most sought-after delicacies here. My Tea House reflects

the multitude of culture of our country making you wonder if the tea leaf can be blended in so many different ways.

Healthy options like green tea which helps in reducing weight are also available here.

Sitting in the tea house with loved ones, sipping a cup of hot tea of your choice with homemade cakes and snacks is a moment of joy which you will get no other place.

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Trippin with shweta Siem reap

Khmerian

Bai Ccha

cuisine ups your palate Coffee sweetened with condensed milk

Pork seasoned with Khmerian spices

Beef Loc Lac

Pat Prik Gang

F

or a while now, Cambodia has been touted as the land of temples. And not just any temple, but the Angkor Wat, the 12th century monument, that was first Hindu and then Buddhist. Unrivalled in its splendour, the Angkor Wat and the complex of temples that surround it, are all that visitors to the country talk about. Most spend days and weeks, awed by these ancient well-preserved structures.

Reams have been written about the magnificent temple complexes by travel writers everywhere.

Me included. This is why this column will not be about them, but about the other flavours that one can savour while in Siem Reap, the gateway town to

Shweta Ganesh Kumar the Angkor complex.

When I visited Siem Reap, way back in 2009 for the first time, my husband and I had five days in the town. Three of which were spent at the Angkor complex and one exploring the floating villages and mangroves that are a little way off.

It was only when I went back with my mother on a women-only trip that we decided to look beyond the temples, for a taste of how the Khmer people live.

We decided to get adventurous and dive into authentic Khmer food for the entire trip.

Breakfast in Siem Reap has a markedly French influence, which is unsurprising because of its colonial past. The day almost always starts with a freshly baked Baguette known as the Nom Pang in Khmer – a coarse braided loaf of bread and minced pork omelette with a side of sliced home grown vegetables. The bread is sometimes so crusty on the outside that it scratches the roof of your mouth, but it tastes so good that a few scratches are worth it. No

Khmerian breakfast is complete without a cup of strong coffee sweetened with condensed milk, a tradition the Cambodians share with their neighbours in Vietnam.

Every meal seems like an adventure here in Siem Reap. We stare at the menu and the most exotic of words stare back at us, accompanied by mouth-watering photographs. For those who have travelled within the region–namely the neighbouring countries of Laos, Vietnam and Thailand, the names of the dishes probably don’t seem that daunting. They might even seem familiar, as the cuisine around the region is definitely similar.

But to my mother and me, the words ‘Pat Prik Gang’ meant nothing. Silently mouthing a prayer to the God, we went for it and were rewarded with a delectable plate of pork in chilli sauce along with long beans. Trying out new dishes became a passion after the success of that first meal.

On cool evenings, tired after traipsing through the ruins and trying to capture their

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Trippin Food with Safari shweta jackfruit Siem reap festival

Beef Loc Lac served with salad

Breakfast in Siem Reap has a markedly French influence, which is unsurprising because of its colonial past. The day almost always starts with a freshly baked Baguette known as the Nom Pang in Khmer – a coarse braided loaf of bread and minced pork omelette with a side of sliced home grown vegetables 70 travel & flavors

August 2013

essence in our cameras, we would sit back and slowly savour the comforting Soup Psut.

This mushroom soup with minced chicken would glide across our tongues, leaving a soothing mix of flavours as it made its way down our parched throats.

Not all the dishes are as laid-back as the Soup Psut though. Introducing the Beef Loc Lac, also known as the Lok Lak. This particular dish made its way to Cambodian kitchens from Vietnam. Now, very much a part of Khmerian cuisine, this stir-fry dish is made with red gravy and served with fried egg. It is also accompanied by a dipping sauce of crushed peppercorns, salt and lime juice. Don’t be fooled by the humble ingredients that go into the making of this scrumptious dish.

Altogether it makes your tongue explode in a riot of sensations.

You can’t claim to have sampled Khmerian fare without trying out the Amok. While this is a kind of catfish steamed in a coconut-milk based curry, restaurants also serve Amok with chicken and other meat depending on your preference. To us Malayalis, the curry is very reminiscent of Kerala cuisine and serves to reinforce the stories of the ancient bonds between the olden cultures of India and Cambodia.

Like most of us from the south of India, the Cambodians too are fond of their rice and eat it all day long in many forms. The rice here though is a tad sticky and goes well with the semi-dry dishes that are preferred here. We tried and loved the Bai Ccha, which is

Khmerian for fried rice with chopped sausages, garlic, soy sauce and Khmerian herbs. Trust me when I say you will have no qualms in bidding goodbye to your no-carbs diet while in Siem Reap. Every calorie you eat and every kilo you put on is so, very worth it.

We doffed our hats to the exotic spices of the region by ordering a special dish of pork marinated and cooked in Khmerian spices.

While most of the spices are the ones most people would be familiar with, those like galangal or blue ginger, kaffir lime leaves and lemon grass are essential to Cambodian cuisine, making it stand out.

Our final stop was The Red Piano- the restaurant actress Angelina Jolie frequented when she stayed in Siem Reap, while shooting for the movie Tomb Raider. A cocktail was created specially for her, and is still one of the most ordered drinks here.

Basically a combination of Vodka, Malibu Rum and pineapple juice, the melange is called the ‘Tomb Raider’ cocktail.

As the trip comes to an end, we realise what travellers have always said about Siem Reap is indeed true. One visit is just not enough to take in all the temples and monuments, as well as sample all that it has to offer elsewhere.

But then we have been fortunate enough to be able to create memories that will last a lifetime. And also carry a little bit of Siem Reap back home with us, in the form of the scrawled down recipes that will help us recreate the flavours that added to our Khmerian experience.

Colourful Khmerian palate

The author tucking into Khmerian cuisine

North east India A driving Experience

Impeccable land of

NAGAS Suresh Joseph

DAY 1 – On the road to Kohima I travelled to Kohima from Dergaon, Assam. Khatkati, a town on the border of Assam and Nagaland, has wine shops on both sides of the road for a distance of about 5 km! That told me that there was prohibition in Nagaland and I am sure it gives travellers an indication of the possibility of dying from thirst for the ‘madira’ in that State. On the border, I was stopped by the Assam Police who wanted to know the history of the vehicle. I mouthed a few police connections and was

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allowed into Nagaland. Nagaland is considered a haven for stolen vehicles and that may have been the reason for the interrogation.

I had had a similar experience at Boxirhat while entering Assam from Cooch Behar. All along the way, on the Assam side, there were prominent signboards warning road users of the possible theft of vehicles using ingenious means. The Inner Line Permit was checked in Chaukidema, the district headquarters of Dimapur and known for being a centre for breeding the Mithun, the prized

bison of the NE. The War Cemetery is located at a critical junction of the Dimapur and Imphal roads and that location had witnessed intense fighting for 64 days between the Japanese and British troops during April/May 1944. It is a poignant reminder of the sacrifice that young men of the day make in order for others to live a better tomorrow. The cemetery was impeccably maintained and some of the messages engraved on the plaques that mark the graves were very moving. The War Cemetery is a monument

Nagas in traditional tribal attire

Nagaland takes pride in being the Land of Festivals. With 14 major tribes and each one having its own celebrations, Nagaland has a year-long date with festivals

A traditional Naga house

A Naga woman selling the famous Naga chillies

North east India A driving Experience overlooking the crucial fighting zone, bearing these immortal words : WHEN YOU GO HOME TELL THEM OF US AND SAY FOR YOUR TOMORROW WE GAVE OUR TODAY

Photo courtesy: SHY

The police headquarters at Kohima is an iconic structure and is located on a hillock in the centre of the city, proximate to the War Cemetery. The building, decorated with lights, looked even more impressive during the night.

The Catholic Cathedral in Kohima is an imposing structure. The cathedral located at a height of nearly 7,000 feet above sea level offered magnificent views of the city. It had been built on a nineacre plot between May 1985 and April

1991 and has a covered area of 25,000 sq ft and can seat 3,000 worshippers with standing space for 15,000. The wooden crucifix was massive and has a 16-foot by 8-foot figure of Christ on it. Of the Rs 3 crore spent on building the cathedral, almost 98 per cent was funded by foreign donations, with much of it coming from Japan. Some parts of the inscription on the plaque at the entrance to the cathedral are worth reproducing here: “…Since then the world has grown smaller, and world peace is essential.

We believe that we must all do our utmost to live and prosper together, regardless of national frontiers. It was with thankfulness that we heard that a Catholic cathedral was being built at Kohima, where mass would be offered

Naga woman

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every morning in memory of the fallen. If the people of Kohima, along with priests, keep the thoughts of the dead soldiers in their hearts for all the long years to come, and pray for the peace and prosperity they desired, there could be no better prayer for the souls of the departed.

“As Japanese survivors of the battle, and bereaved families who lost their dear ones, we have given much thought to this and have collected contributions to this end: we herewith offer these towards the building of the cathedral. Our hands are clasped in prayer.”

DAY 2 – In Kohima As in every other hill town, it was a nightmare to drive in Kohima. But not so on Sunday with all shops closed and the streets almost free of vehicles.

So, if you want to drive in Kohima, be there on a Sunday! With the Hornbill festival just 48 hours away and the X’mas season to begin soon thereafter, young men and women were busy painting and decorating shops with lights and stars. On one street corner, a dummy Santa had been put up, a nippy wind blowing through his beard. Kohima, I was told, is full of fun and music almost throughout December because X’mas is a major festival there. Nagaland takes pride in being the Land of Festivals. With 14 major tribes and each one having its own celebrations, Nagaland has a year-long date with festivals. It is therefore advisable to check the festival calendar before scheduling a visit to that State.

A visit to the State Museum coupled with one to the Nagaland Heritage Village in Kisama was truly an educative experience. The Kisama village was being readied for the seven-day Annual Hornbill Festival, which was to begin on December 1.

I was told that all the hotels, lodges and guest houses are booked months in advance for the entire week. The festival showcases, in one location, the art and culture of all the major tribes of Nagaland. On the way to Kisama stood a signboard indicating the route to Japfu peak, which boasts of having the tallest rhododendron, one measuring 130ft; this amazing plant has found a place in the Guinness Book of World Records.

Roof of the world nepal

A tale of

Bhaktapur, the Malla kingdom Bhaktapur with its amazing temples, monasteries and handicrafts is a true wonder for those coming to the ancient kingdom and it’s hard to take your eyes off what you see here

B

Amit Kishor Subedi

haktapur literally means ‘a place with devotees’ and with so much of Buddhist and Hindu temples here, it’s easy to understand why.

It is located 14 km east of the Kathmandu valley.

Bhaktapur was the independent kingdom of Malla till the18th century and evidences show that the city has existed since the 9th century. The last Malla kings, Jitmitra Malla,Bhupatindra Malla and Ranjit Malla, played a vital role inestablishing Bhaktapuras a unique city.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979.It is believed the city was established in the12th century and was the capital of the greater Malla kingdom till the 15th century.The monuments, temples and handicrafts though established

Roof of the world Nepal

through 12th century took its present day shape in the 18th century. The earthquake of 1934 destroyed more than one-third of the ancient temples and monasteries, monuments and houses here but it was reinstated in the 1980s.

A vast majority of the people in Bhaktapur follow Hinduism while Buddhism is the second most popular religion here. A visitor to the city can wake up to thetemple bells nearby and it is said that there are nearly 172 places devoted to Hindu rites here. Festivals also play an important role here and Bhaktapurcelebrates 79 festivals in 75 days.

These festivals are celebrated seeking blessings of the almighty and recalling legendryevents. Of the 75 festivals, a few of the important ones will be mentioned.

Bisket Jatra In this festival, massive chariots with idols of Lord Bhairav are pulled through the city by the residents.

The festival commemorates the love-making of Bhairava and Goddess Bhadrakali which is believed to be ensuring fertility and prosperity to the community in the coming year. Bhairava represents the sky and Bhadrakali represents the earth. This festival is celebrated for a week in the month of April.

A settlement in the town

Gaijatra This festival is celebrated to help the deceased reach the heaven. The families who have lost their loved ones in the previous year take out a procession holding long bambooswiththe image of a sacred cow. The bamboo is taken as symbolic tool that helps in crossing the river to the other world. This festival is celebrated for eight days in August.

Tihar This festival marks the beginning of the New Year (Nepal Samvat) of Newari community which worshipsGoddess Lakshmi. Brothers and sisters exchange ‘tika’ and garlands.The five-day festival is celebrated in November.

Main attractions Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Bhairaavnath Temple at Bhaktapur, Nepal

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is in the heart of Bhaktapur city and the 55-window palace there is the subject of amazement. It was built by King BhupatindraMallaat the end of the 17thcentury and is an outstanding example of Newari wood carving.

The perfect art of woodcarving on the doors, windows and pillarsis unbelievable. The splendid work of metal, Talejutemple built in 1756 and the 18th century big bell are the other attractions. The statue of BhupatindraMalla is another attraction. And there are numerous other temples dedicated to various Gods and Goddess.

A street in Bhaktapur

Natpyol Natpyolis one of the tallest pagoda templesin Nepal. This five-storey, 30-metre high temple of Goddess Lakshmi was built in the beginning of the 16thcentury.Each of its terraces holds a pair of figures such as bottom wrestlers, elephants, lion griffins and Goddess.

Bhairavnaath Temple Bhairavnaath is a three-storeytemple built in 17th century. Originally, it was a one-storey structure.The massive wheel beams at the foot of the temple were to carry the deity during bisketjatra.

Whenever I visit the Bhaktapur city, I find myself wonderstruck. I can’t evenguess how many artists have spent their whole life to erect these amazing monuments. No amount of salutation is enough for the artists who created these wonderful monuments in the city.

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Mystery n MYTH Vlad Castle

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‘Haunted’

Poenari Castle in

Transylvania

They say that myth and history can never be far behind. When it comes to the tales relating to King Vlad III, one is unsure where fiction ends and reality begins. Bram Stoker’s Dracula, the vampire popularized the so-called haunted Poenari Castle which is said to have witnessed the most heinous acts of Vlad. Where Bram Stoker’s tale meets the horror stories of Vlad’s human torture is not clear yet

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Savithri S Iyer

ransylvania is synonymous with the dark tales of Count Dracula, immortalised by the acclaimed novel Dracula by Bram Stoker.

The tales relating to Dracula and the castle of Poenari or the real Dracula castle as it is called are such that reality has begun to co relate with fiction.

Irrespective of truths and fiction, Poenari Castle, though in ruins today, was once the seat of Vlad III’s harsh regime. A lot of tourists and Dracula enthusiasts mistakenly go to Bran Castle confusing it to be the seat of Vlad’s cruelty and secretly hoping to see any relics relating to the vampire myth in Transylvania. In reality, Dracula aficionados would be better off coming to Poenari Castle which was the actual seat of Vlad’s demonic rule.

What’s the big deal about vampires and Count Dracula, one may wonder.

According to the popular myth, vampires are creatures that drink human blood for survival and come out only after sunset.

The stories relating to the vampire only

Mystery n MYTH Vlad Castle

The stairs leading upto Poenari Castle

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grew wilder after the publication of ‘Dracula’ a fictional account of a powerful vampire in Transylvania. It is a fact that the similarities between Vlad the Impaler and the fictional vampire continue to attract Dracula enthusiasts even today. Vlad was infamous for his cruelty and records suggest that he came up with the most ingenious methods to kill his enemies and political prisoners, a method that earned him the not so fond nickname-Vlad the Impaler.

The deaths of 40,000 to 50,000 of his enemies still remain a mystery. It has been said that a neighbouring king fled his kingdom on seeing the corpses on the roads leading to Poenari Castle.

Located on a cliff on the west side of the Transfagarasan road in Arges County, the castle was erected at the beginning of the 13th century by the rulers of Wallachia. In the century following that, the castle became the main stronghold of the Basarab rulers, but gradually it was abandoned and left in ruins. In the 15th century, Vlad III renovated the castle and made it his fortress.

Due to its size and location, it was one of the most difficult castles to take control of, even for natural forces. A landslide in the latter part of the 19th century left the castle in shambles. Realising the potential of the castle as a tourist spot, the Romanian government rebuilt large portions of the castle. One has to climb 1,480 steps to reach there. Visitors to the castle today prefer to view it from a safe distance although there are some who wouldn’t mind spending a night in the castle.

According to folklore, Vlad III is known as the founder of Poenari Castle which is said to have resemblance to Bran Castle, the location for the fictional tale of Dracula. The story of how Vlad had the castle rebuilt is full of horror.

During Easter, when the residents of the area were making merry and feasting, he captured them all and it is said that the old and the invalid were impaled and the young ones-men, women and children- were taken to Poenari where they were forced to work on the castle.

The incident points to Vlad’s cruelty. The enslaved workers were not his enemies nor Turkish or Saxons. Despite the fact that many generations have passed after the incident, historians agree on the grim reality of Transylvania. The story of Vlad’s motivation for building the castle is even more gruesome and remains to this day one of the most terrible stories of revenge told in Transylvanian history. The castle was made virtually impregnable and was more like a fortress, able to withstand the heaviest cannon fire. It is said that the castle virtually became a hideout for Vlad who had all the principal architects of the castle savagely killed.

The central tower in the castle is the oldest

and in the shape of a square. The other two towers are cylindrical. The thickness of the wall confirms the fact that Vlad went to great lengths to get the castle built. These walls are quite high and seem to look as if they are part of the mountain itself. According to folklore, the castle also had a secret passage leading to a separate tunnel into the mountains and emerging in a cave on the banks of Arges River. One can never be sure what else the castle once contained. A Turkish envoy’s report shows the path leading up to the castle had quite a lot of larger than life iron rods with decaying corpses on them or in some cases, people begging for mercy. The envoy is said to have fled the country in fear. The exact reason for Vlad’s barbarism may never be known but he has certainly left a legacy.

At the end of the 15th century, the castle was used as a prison for political offenders and people believed that the royals after Vlad the Impaler did not stay in the castle due to the fear of being haunted by the tortured souls. The peasants often talked about the castle and the sounds they heard from there. The people in the neighbourhood never dared to find out the reason for the strange noises in the

Poenari Castle during autumn

castle and even today the situation is not different.

There were people who walked down the path with Bible and crucifix in hand. To make matters worse, the area was crowded with bats and the spread of rabies after a bat’s infection had people wondering if there was any supernatural element to the whole tale.

All these seem to blend with stories of Bram Stoker’s tale.

Today, the scenario has changed quite a bit and Poenari Castle and Transylvania in general have begun to gain a better reputation. Posters and arrows indicate the castle which though looks spooky is more people friendly than it used to be. Vlad and his reputation for seclusion and notoriety is a thing of the past, though tourists coming here may secretly be hoping for a ghost hunt on the way. Although Vlad the Impaler does linger in the minds of those who come here, it has turned into a place arousing curiosity rather than fear. Poenari Castle and Transylvania continue to draw visitors interested in the supernatural and though you may not find what you’re looking for, it’s worth a trip to the land of Vlad the Impaler and his reign of terror.

Key’s Destinations Melbourne

In the land of penguins and kangaroos Karnika E Yaswant

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single man can have moments of wanderlust.

So, I asked some friends for such a place and they told me Melbourne is the place to be. They even picked out the itinerary for me and showed me photographs of their own wanderings.

They believe in a ‘hands on’ approach to travel and encouraged me to handpick locations and discover Melbourne by getting involved in activities, events and tours.

There is a regular round trip plane route between Coimbatore or Chennai and Melbourne. An adventurous way to start this tour is to find a bed and breakfast hotel just out of town and then, leisurely ask tourists and tenants the best places to go in a big city like Melbourne. For starters, I feel it is best to visit Melbourne Museum as it reveals much of the history of the city. The museum is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere housing a permanent collection within seven galleries, a children’s gallery and a temporary exhibit gallery on three levels.

One attraction of the museum is the possum skin cloaks made by 30 Koorie children celebrating their culture, identity and tradition.In partnership with Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre, this project supports the belief that the key for young people to have a strong future is to have a strong culture. Possum skin cloaks have been made for thousands of years to come

by Koorie communities from across South Eastern Australia. Beautiful Children shows the next generation of strong, proud Koorie people and cloak-makers.

The Discovery Centre at Melbourne Museum is designed to give visitors access to a vast store of expertise information and collections. Two hundred objects are on

For starters, I feel it is best to visit Melbourne Museum as it reveals much of the history of the city. One attraction of the museum is the possum skin cloaks made by 30 Koorie children celebrating their culture, identity and tradition August 2013 travel & flavors

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Key’s Destinations Melbourne

Flinders Street Station display, there is an extensive reference library, and public computers provide the option to watch documentaries and explore the extensive collection of online resources the museum has to offer.

Melbourne Museum is located in Carlton Gardens opposite the historic Royal Exhibition building.

I would definitely like to see penguins, koalas and kangaroos on a day trip to Phillip Island, Melbourne’s wildlife wonderland and Holiday Island. A visit to a wildlife park to get me up close with koalas and kangaroos, and then watch sea birds and fur seals in the rocky formation known as the Nobbies would just be delightful. Taking pictures of koalas, kangaroos, Tasmanian devils and the most adorable little penguins would really cap this trip for me.

Tours depart from Melbourne hotels or

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Federation Square, Melbourne City, at 1.15 pm.

The hotel pickups commence approximately 30-60 minutes prior to this time and returns to the original departure point at approximately 9.30pm-10.30pm. Inclusions are hotel pickup and drop off, transport by air-conditioned coach, with a driver/guide and live commentary on board, entrance fees and GST (Goods and Services Tax). Exclusions are food and drinks, port pickup and drop off.

Melbourne 5-pack offer One can take the Melbourne 5-pack offer.

The package I chose for my family saved me up to 50 per cent on entry to five of the top attractions in and around Melbourne. I am given a choice of 20 of the most popular hotspots for adult and family funzoos, sightseeing tours, river cruises or many more!

August 2013

The pack is completely customized to individual tastes. All admission fees are included while transportation, food and beverage are according to your budget and inclination.

The pass is valid for three months from the first use and valid for six months from the date of purchase. ‘Melbourne 5 in 1 Attraction Pass’ and ‘Experience Guide’ may be collected from: Best of Victoria Visitor Information Centre Federation Square Corner of Swanston & Flinders Sts, Melbourne, open seven days from 9 am to 6pm.

Eureka Skydeck Melbourne’s Eureka Skydeck is the highest point in the city and a must-do for any visitor to Victoria’s capital! Created to reach for the sky, nothing you have ever experienced will prepare you for the awe inspiring view of Melbourne from

the Southern Hemisphere’s highest viewing platform - the Eureka Skydeck. An experience above all else, Eureka Skydeck takes you to one of the most scenic vantage points available in the country to gaze out over the scenery of Victoria’s culturally and historically rich capital, with an impressive panorama visible in every direction.

Melbourne Aquarium The must-see Melbourne Aquarium is an awardwinning, entertaining and educational experience with four amazing worlds to discover- Antarctica, Weird and Wonderful, River to Reef and Sharks Alive. Visitors can experience daily dive feeding shows, ghost-like jellies, massive stingrays and see Australia’s only sub-Antarctic King and Gentoo penguins as they swim and play on the ice in their multi-million dollar award-winning exhibit.

road to sanctity hasratbal

Pilgrimage to

Hasratbal

mosque Every devout Muslim may long to visit the Hasratbal mosque in Kashmir as it is believed to be preserving a strand of the hair of Prophet Muhammad. Located in the most beautiful natural setting, the mosque has thousands of visitors every week

Savithri S Iyer

road to sanctity hasratbal

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Hasratbal as seen across the Dal Lake hose who are coming to the Hasratbal mosque would be overwhelmed with the serene mood that would calm your mind and heal your wounds.

Perhaps because of this factor, the mosque basks in the glory of divine splendour or the relic it boasts of.

Situated nearly 8 km away from Lal Chowk and facing the Nishat Bhagh along with a spectacular view of the Dal Lake, it is hardly surprising that the mosque is considered to be a paradise. One of the most important shrines for followers of Islam, Hasratbal preserves a strand of hair of Prophet Muhammad or the Moie-Muqqadas. The strand of hair is preserved so well that it is only revealed to devotees on religious

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occasions. The popularity of the shrine in Kashmir is evident from the fact that a large number of devotees come here for Friday prayers every week. Its unique architectural style with a dome also attracts devotees from faraway places.

Hasratbal also has a rich and vivid history dating back to the 17th century. Although the actual shrine dates back to the Mughal era, the construction of the mosque was begun in 1968 under the guidance of the Muslim Auqaf Trust and was completed in 1979 having been built with pure white marble making the building quite regal and paradisiacal. The mosque is known by various names like Assar-e-Sharif, Madinat-Us-Sani, Darhah Sharif and so on. Originally intended as an Ishrat Mahal or a pleasure house, it later became a prayer area but was deemed to be too small for the large number of people coming here and hence in 1968, the construction work for

the mosque was begun blending Mughal and Kashmiri style of architecture.

According to Islamic belief, a glimpse of the relic kept in the mosque is considered to be holy.

Legend has it that the sacred artifact was first brought to India

by Syed Abdullah, a descendant of Prophet Muhammad, who left his homeland and settled in Bijapur in 1635. After his death, his son inherited it but was unable to take care of it owing to the Mughal invasion. He sold it to a wealthy Kashmiri businessman called Khwaja Nur-Din Eshai. When Emperor Aurnagzeb came to know of what had taken place, he restored the relic at the shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti in Ajmer and had Khwaja Nur-Din Eshai sent to prison where he died later.

Aurangzeb later had the relic sent back to its origin in 1700 along with the body of its previous owner.

The relic was soon under the care of Inayat Begum, the daughter

Pilgrims resting in the lawns of Khwaja Nur-Din Eshai. The artifact has since been a part of the family and has been handed down to succeeding generations of the family and has been known in the family as Nishaandehs.

Although the relic is said to have disappeared once, mass protests over the incident later led to the restoration of the relic in 1964 and the shrine of Hasratbal has been its home since then.

Getting there Nearest airport: Srinagar Airport Nearest rail station: Jammu Tawi Railway Station

By road: NH-1A connects the Kashmir valley with the rest of India. Taxis and buses available

Pilgrims at the mosque

Desert Tales pushkar

Pushkar festival RECAPTURED

The annual five-day Pushkar fair in Rajasthan has become world famous with its unique ambience. Besides the best camels and the most beautiful Marwari horses, a number of local products are on sale at the fair. What attracts tourists from far and wide is its striking colour and each and every moment is a photo opportunity for a lifetime

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nce upon a time, Lord Brahma decided to do fire worship and selected the city of Pushkar as the chosen venue. As per the rules of the time, he was supposed to have his wife, Savitri, along at the worship but she didn’t turn up. To overcome this clumsy situation, Brahma married a local village belle called Gayatri and carried out the worship as planned. This upset Savitri who cursed Brahma, one of the holy trinity. According to the curse, Lord Brahma should have a temple for him only in the town of Pushkar and nowhere else.

The temple of Brahma is in the centre of the town while the temples of Savitri and Gayatri are on two hills facing each other.

The quaint little town of Pushkar was discovered by western tourists in the 1970s.

Soon, the cattle festival at Pushkar turned a camel festival to attract more tourists from the country and abroad. We reached Ajmer by road and set across a hillock to arrive at Pushkar while the sun was dipping against the horizon. It is more like Goa with its fancy resorts and western tourists and yet retains all of its charm and little pathways while offering everything from bandhinis, jewellery to metal bras to the discerning tourists.

The holy town is out of limits for the non-vegetarian travellers but it offers ‘grass’ as a way to enhance and absorb the spiritual leanings. We left for the mela

An aerial view of Pushkar

Text and photos by Raju Alexis at around 5.30 am the next day, sufficiently armed with tripods, off camera flashes and reflectors.

The town was also getting up with people going to temples and the women leaving for the rose farms.

The town consists of an area of around 2 km in circumference.

The mela was a huge smoke bowl with the traders setting up the morning tea by burning firewood. We enjoyed the local hospitality and soon came across the habit of “bakshish” or offering Rs 10 for every portrait.

Photography: Carry Rs 500 in changes of 10 and you will get 50 models. Children and women are vociferous and haggle for money. You get lovely shots of men wearing colourful turbans and smoking the pipe. Their skin is also weather beaten and has a lot of character. Women are dressed either in yellow or red or a combination of both.

The sadhus will curse you to eternal damnation and women will curse you to a life of celibacy if you do not give them money. The opening ceremony continued in the parade ground where all competitions, including “the longest moustache”, were held.

The prettiest girls dressed in traditional finery from the local schools in and around the town lend eye candy.

In the afternoon, we walked around the ghats clicking pictures of people. It was random, it was mindless and it

Desert Tales pushkar

was also brutal. Never have I walked into a street where you just have to point your camera anywhere and a frame appears. The only thing to be wary of are the inevitable photographers who are everywhere.

The whole town is infested with them and it was with great difficulty and perseverance that I managed to get my frame stay clear of them.

By evening, we took a camel walk across the mela. The restaurants are fancifully named Pink Floyd Cafe and Blue Rainbow and Bob Marley.

The picture perfect shots of the mela are taken against the setting sun with dust rising and the belching of camels. By the way, camels stink just like most animals.

Traders come in to buy and sell and it is a tough bargain interlocked with gaalis in the local language.

The camels will be used to pull stuff as well as take the tourists around.

More famous and prestigious at the fair is the more beautiful and elegant Marwari horse which fetches up to Rs 2 lakh.

We wound up the night shooting after the diyaas at the ghat during the Aarthi followed by great fireworks. The next day began with an air balloon trip across the town to witness how it nestled in the Aravali ranges while the sun rose majestically across the mountain. It offered lovely shots with the mist and fog rising across the foliage.

A sumptuous breakfast with all types of stuffed parathas is served at the RS Restaurant near the Brahma temple. As soon as the trip stepped in Jaipur, it transformed into a foodie binge gorging on all local delicacies from the ghatta curry to vegetable khormas.

Before leaving the town, we stepped in the temple to seek blessings. Along with the main diety, there is also Lord Kubera or bringer of wealth and prosperity.

We left Pushkar by noon and this travelogue will be incomplete without a mention of Lucy, a beautiful Great Dane pup, all of eight months and three feet tall. She struts around the Gulab Niwas Hotel, like she owned the place.

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Women clad in traditional attire

A vegetable market

Event: Pushkar Mela, week-long cattle fair held every November Very friendly people No photography of women at the bathing ghats

Recommended lenses:

A wide angle like 14mm, the 70-200 mm, f 2.8 and the nifty fifty mm. off camera flashes with a large soft box and tripod also recommended

Musical Feast reading & leeds

Stage set to

rock music

lovers Rock festivals in Reading and Leeds are all set to take the music world by storm. Rock, alternative, indie, punk and metal genres with a style of their own make the music popular worldover

Tony William

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he popularity of outdoor rock festivals is increasing steadily these days.

Reading and Leeds Festival held at Reading and Leeds in England is testimony to this.The festival sets the floors on fire from August 23 to 25, at Richfield Avenue in Reading andatBramham Parkin Leeds.Rock, alternative, indie, punk and metal genres of music dominate the festival.

The origin of Reading Festival can be traced back to the National Jazz Festival which was famous for the British and US jazz. It was in 1971 that the festival was moved to its present venue at Reading.

The most successful rapper in history, Eminem, is the first headliner to be announced on the Main Stage at Reading and Leeds Festival in 2013. Eleven years after he topped the bill at the festival, he returns for this performance, his only UK festival appearance in 2013. Main Stage headliners Green Day, an American punk rock band,are an integral part of the festival, with their performances among the greatest in the festivals’ history.

In addition, Scottish trio Biffy Clyro will also perform here.

Other troops and artistes performing at Reading and Leeds include System of a Down, Frank Turner, White Lies, The Blackout, Fall out Boy, Nine Inch Nails, Deaf Havana, Azealia Banks, Disclosure, City and colour, Flux Pavilion, Redlight, Pegboard Nerds, Jacob Plant, Bondax, Robert Delong, And So I Watch You From Afar, San Cisco and Itch. Leeds can accommodate 80,000 people at present and plans to increase its capacity to 90,000 in 2014 while Reading has a capacity of 87,000.

The official website claims that the early entry tickets have been sold out two months before the event, a proof of its mass popularity.

The festival is also famous for its notorious bottling out (Throwing bottles at artistes) of unpopular artistes or troops from the venue by the crowds. Such incidents were reported in 2000, 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2008.

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Ice skating Lulu Mall

Tony William

Largest ice skating rink at

Lulu Ice skating facility in Kerala, that too in a mall in the heart of a city, will be almost unimaginable until you see the ice skating rink at Lulu Mall in Kochi. Children here are agog to see and experience skating on ice that they have seen only on television

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or the older generation, an ice skating rink at a busy shopping mall may sound quite impossible. But for the young, it is a facility befitting the times. Described as India’s largest shopping complex, Lulu Mall with 25 lakh sqft spreads over an area of seven acres.

Promising a new shopping experience, Lulu

Mall has all the major international brands. The mall which can hold one lakh customers at a time boasts of a parking facility for 3,000 cars. The food court at Lulu Mall can accommodate 3,500 people and has 18 food counters.

There are nine cinema screens with a total capacity of 2,250 seats making it a large family entertainment centre.

Ice skating at Lulu Welcome to South India’s first and the largest ice skating rink at Lulu Shopping Mall. To keep the ice frozen in the rink, a 2,600-unit chiller runs all day long. For the children who are good at roller skating, learning to skate on ice is not an uphill task, according to MV

Manikandan, Marketing Manager, Sparky’s, Lulu Mall. You can watch some gliding on the thick ice with expertise while others clinching on the fiber glass boundaries of the rink.

“The response has been overwhelming. Every day we have around 200 children for ice skating with the number going up on weekends.

The rink is of world class standards. It is the teenagers who steal the show in the ice skating rink,” notes Manikandan.

Penguin skating aids are also supplied to the children as a learning tool and to help them gain confidence. Four trainers, including women trainers, are there to help out first timers. The charge for skating on ice for an hour is Rs 400. One can skate for 30 minutes by paying Rs 250 as well. Steel skate blades, pads and helmets for ice

skating are also provided.

Participants can also make use of pre-paid cards for an amount of Rs 3,000 for one year validity and can avail benefits of Rs 5,000.

Those who use the card can also get an additional 10 per cent discount for all other games.

“Plans are in the pipeline to put up live performances by ice skating artistes from Australia who have expressed desire to perform in our rink. We hope it will attract more ice skating lovers,” says Manikandan.

Benefits of ice skating Cardiovascular benefits: Ice skating is one of the best aerobic activities. Unlike other physical activities, including running, ice skating gives great cardio benefits without the pounding.

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wild world tanzania

ENCROACHERS

NOT WELCOME N ot knowing what to do, a herd of deer staring at a visitor at Ngorongoro National Park, Tanzania while a pride of lions relish a quiet day. Whether it is the hunter or the hunted, both love a quiet slumber

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Dr O S Rajendran

is the managing Director, Modern ENT Centre, Kerala

into the wild Jim Corbett National park

Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the top 10 wildlife photographers of the world

Trivia

Best season: November to March.

Attractions: April- June is the

best time for tiger and elephant photography

Reach: Nearest railway station is Ramnagar (19 km). There is a direct train from Delhi to Ramnagar.

Embracing the wild

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herd of elephants are crossing a grass land at Jim Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand, and two Indian peafowls are engaged in a fight on a road in the park. It is very rare to see these birds fighting each other as they are always calm. Rich in wildlife, the park has more than 600 species of birds. In India this is the only forest where you can stay at the heart of the jungle. Corbett is the ultimate tiger haven and if you are lucky, you can spot a tiger. The main mammal families are deer and elephant and the evenings are the best time to spot the elephant herd coming down the river bed. It is a treat to watch them play and bath.

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strange travellers

An officer and a

traveller Indian civil service officers are not just doing their official duties, but are often engaged in their passion for writing poems and novels also. Here is an IAS officer whose passion for travel on motorbike took him to remote areas of the country

A jack of all trades, Tenzing has made contributions as an administrator, a singer, a dabbler in vipassana meditation, a supporter of a monk’s school at Mongan, hotelier, social worker, author and founder of Sikkim’s most acclaimed English weekly Weekend Review

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alden Gyasto Tenzing, an Indian Administrative Service officer, is known for his motorcycle ride across India. A 1986 batch IAS officer, Tenzing quit his service to embark on a 25,320-km motorcycle journey.

The civil service officer who was posted in Kerala took voluntary retirement in 2007 to follow what is closer to his heart.He began his journey from Thiruvananthapuram where he worked in several key positions in Fisheries and Transport, IT and Education departments. A native of Sikkim, Tenzing has written a book based on his travel experience, ‘Don’t Ask Any Old Bloke for Directions, a biker’s whimsical journey across India’.

On a 350cc Enfield Thunderbird motorbike with minimum essentials like three pairs of clothes, an ID and ATM cards, it took nine months for Tenzing to complete his journey.

He crossed Tamil Nadu and took the east coast route to Sikkim and Assam, then through Nepal to Ladakh and Himachal, back to Sikkim and

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journeyed through central India to Kerala again. He took the west coast route to Mumbai and Rajasthan and then went to his home state Sikkim. During the journey, he interacted with numerous people, including roadside barbers,hotel waiters and mechanics.His journey had no pre-planned route and he literally travelled to where the roads took him.

So, who was Tenzing? A jack of all trades, Tenzing has made contributions as an administrator, a singer with a Gangtok-based band, a dabbler in vipassana meditation, a supporter of a monk’s school at Mongan, hotelier, social worker, author and founder of Sikkim’s most acclaimed English weekly Weekend Review.Sheela Thomas, a former colleague, calls his biking endeavour a karmic journey in search of ‘Tamzi’, the sacred bond between people, a concept instilled inTenzing by the Buddhist traditions that he grew up in.

Tenzing who believed that life was a journey to death,died of cancer on July 26, 2010 at the age of 46.

Photo Courtsey: Karchoong Diyali

Tony William

Cover design of Tenzing’s book on his journey