SPECIAL
November 2013 KERENG02406 www.travelandflavors.com
Vibrant Gujarat UAE - AED 7 US - $5 India - `50
Raffles Dubai
Regal London
Exciting Honduras
Welcoming the Spanish Art Exhibition at Raffles
Trotting along the paths of the truly regal London
Remnants of the Mayan era lure travellers to Honduras
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Cover photo: A lioness at Gir Wildlife sanctuary, Gujarat
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cover story
Gateway to Indian culture, traditions Gujarat is fast becoming a tourist hub in India with the presence of monuments and historical places that remind you of the nation’s ancient culture and traditions. Pilgrims, historians and fun-loving ordinary tourists alike can quench their thirst while taking a trip around the state. This special edition of Travel and Flavors presents Gujarat as a favoured destination that a person coming to India shouldn’t miss out
city that keeps its traditions aloft London, a city where culture, traditions and lore remain intact is a destination you most likely wouldn’t want to strike off from your European travel plans. It’s got something to offer for everyone and once there, the city would charm you endlessly with its sophistications and regality
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84 treasure of temple architecture
Jewel amongst ruins
Badami may not seem to be the kind of place where you come to find magic waiting to happen. But the rock paintings and sculptures you find after a brisk climb are spectacular you would find your jaws dropping to the floor in surprise. Magic can be found even in stones there, and you will know why once you get to Badami
The small town of Copan is known for its Mayan ruins dating back to the 5th century AD. But that’s not the sole reason Shweta Ganesh Kumar finds the town charming. The local flavour is hard to miss and you would not be able to resist its charms, no matter how hard you try
Into the Wild by Rathika Ramasamy 10
91 Pokhra: The Himalayan poetry
Travel News 12 Events Calendar 14 Thus Spake the Shots: Dhobi Ghat 52 Mumbai’s laundry lane
Check in Bubble Café to enjoy flavors 54
The Bubble Café at the Gateway Hotel gives you a chance to enjoy cuisines from the whole world
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Unique Festivals 58 A visual treat not to be missed 62
The Poppy Fields in Sussex are like a true fantasy land with scarlet hues everywhere
Dilli Haat: Of food and art 64
Step into Dilli Haat to explore cuisines from all over India
Brewing the way into beer lovers’ hearts 66 Barleyz is a beer lover’s dream come true
Travel Kit: Ideal binoculars 75
Check out the perfect binoculars for your travel
A paradise where time stands still 80
Okinawa is the place to be if you love crystal blue beaches and a refreshing holiday
Incredibly beautiful Arunachal Pradesh 88 Suresh Joseph takes readers through mystifying Arunachal Pradesh
Pokhra with its majestic mountain ranges and beautiful lakes is a wonderful place for a peaceful trip
94 Back to the woods
Explore Banasura Sagar Dam, a place where you can get closer to Nature
97 From the Tourism Director’s desk
98 Tales of ghost sightings, eerie sounds abound Rumours of supernatural sightings don’t prevent tourists from visiting the Forbidden City
101 My Shot 105 Queen Victoria offers a royal voyage
Cunard cruises offers a true royal voyage to those who step aboard its majestic liners
108 Hallmarks of Moscow 110 Flaunting style & opulence Raffles Dubai is truly stylish and regal
114 Hitjet makes flying more enjoyable
Dubai’s top FM station takes you to dream destinations around the world
118 Adventures of a Russian Traveller
Join Fyodor Konyukhov as he embarks on an awe inspiring journey
Volume 1 Issue 8 | November 2013 Founder & editor Ravi Deecee Executive Editor Ratheema Ravi DC MEDIA - OPERATIONS
dc media - ADVT SALES
dc books
General Manager M Kumar T&F - EDITORIAL Associate Editor Dipin Damodharan Chief Copy Editor K S Rajagopal Sr SUB Editor Savithri S Iyer OVERSEAS CORRESPONDENT Prashob K P Senior Reporters Lakshmi Narayanan Tony William PHOTOJOURNALIST Jose Jacob DC MEDIA - EDITORIAL Sr editorial team Vishnu Rageev R Sumithra Sathyan O P Vinodkumar Pushpa M editorial team Neethu Mohan Shalet James Sujeesh K S Vishnu J J Nair Renku Haridas Design & Layout Kailasnath Anil P John Vipinesh Sangeeth K M Arathi R Nair Web Manager S Sreenath
Head - Marketing Vinu V Nair Senior Managers Kainakari Shibu Rajasree Varma Anu P M Biju P Alex Vijimon P B M K Haridas Vinod Joseph Rohil Kumar A B Managers Febin K Francis Siju Thomas special projects Devika Venugopal
Administration General Manager S Arun Kumar Manager-Administration Anil kumar B Manager-Corporate Relations Joseph AG Finance & accounts General Manager Santhosh Kumar M Sr Manager-Costing Christo Antony Sr Manager-Accounts Emy Liju Production General Manager D Sreekumar Editorial - Mango Saraswathy Rajagopal Editorial - DC Books Jayadev KV AV Sreekumar Ramdas R Eswaran Namboothiri Honey Thomas Anoop G Shajikumar KN Sanjeev S Muraleedharan Shaji kumar KN Sreedevi P Sunithananth PT Suresh PS Tency Jacob Aravindakshan NV Purchase Lekha Pradeep Nisha Sunil Online & Portal Jacob Varghese Jeevan K Augustine Rights Sumitha Jyothidas Dileep Kumar T Systems Prasanth K P Pradeep Kumar K T
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For permissions to copy or reuse material from Travel & Flavors, write to editorial@dcmediacorp.com Views and opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of DC Books, its publisher or editors. We do our best to verify the information published but do not take any responsibility for the absolute accuracy of the information. We do not take responsibility for returning unsolicited material sent without due postal stamps for return postage. No part of this magazine can be reproduced without the prior written permission of the publisher. Travel & Flavors reserves the right to use the information published herein in any manner whatsoever. Contact Info DC MEDIA , DC Books, 234/C, Adjacent to YMCA, Chittoor Road, Cochin – 35, Kerala, India, Contact, Ph: +91 484 3047 405, Fax: +91 484 4021 145 Business Office - International, DC Books Pvt Ltd, # 1, 601, DSC Tower, Studio City, Dubai, UAE Mail: editorial@dcmediacorp.com, info@dcmediacorp.com Published from DC Books, D C Kizhakemuri Edam, Good Shepherd Street, Kottayam – 686001, Kerala, India and printed at Five Star Offset Printers, Nettoor,Cochin-40 for DC Press Pvt. Ltd., Industrial Development Area, Poovanthuruth, Kottayam – 686012, Kerala, India. Printed, published & owned by Ravi Deecee
DC Media Publication www.travelandflavors.com
contributors Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the world’s top 10 wildlife photgraphers
Leen Thobias is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography
Suresh Joseph is a triple postgraduate in Economics, Management and Industrial Relations. He has authored two books and presently he is a Consultant and Mentor based in Kochi, Kerala
Shweta Ganesh Kumar is a travel columnist and the bestselling author of Coming Up On the Show and Between The Headlines, two novels on the Indian broadcast news industry
Salim Pushpanath is a renowned photographer based in Kerala, South India. He has published several photo books based on his many travels
Karnika E Yaswanth is a naturalist and is involved in several projects which seek to stop the destruction of natural habitat due to human negligence
Amit Kishor Subedi is an avid traveller and documentary film maker based in Pokhara, Nepal. He is involved in documentaries which promote art and culture in Nepal
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travel & flavors November 2013
letter from the editor
T
he state of Gandhiji deserves to be the focus of this issue of Travel and Flavors. Historical places, temples and monuments like forts and palaces make the region the cultural centre of India. This doesn’t mean that the other states in the country are culturally insignificant and cannot boast of a rich heritage as that of Gujarat. Gujarat is special simply because of its cultural diversity which was impacted by different religious beliefs. Apart from Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism had flourished in the region in the early days and they left behind indelible marks in the custom and tradition of the people across the state. Their food habits, festivals and arts and crafts are all an outcome of the varied religious practices in different times. Also, archaeological surveys show the region’s connection with the Indus Valley Civilization. No need to think twice if you are planning a trip to the state, whether youare a pilgrim or a historian or an arts and crafts lover. You will appreciate the exceptional skills and knowledge of the people engaged in arts and crafts works in numerous villages which still preserve centuries-old techniques without losing its essence. The architectural style of Hindu temples, especially those in Dwarka and Somnath, Buddhist sites and Jain temples will of course astonish visitors. There are also colourful festivals, including the International Kite Festival and Navratri, where tourists can revel in local music and dance like ‘dandiya’ and ‘garbaras’. If you are a wildlife enthusiast, the Gir forest and wildlife sanctuary will keep you busy as it is home to many species of mammals, reptiles and birds, and it could be an opportunity for you to see the majestic Asiatic lion. Vegetarian food lovers would be able to please their palate with a variety of ‘thalis’ prepared in unique ways in each region. Though simple, these are the most delicious and rich vegetarian cuisines offered in the country. In every aspect, Gujarat seems to be an ideal tourist destination for one and all throughout the year. The ‘Nightmarish Forbidden City’ takes you to the erstwhile Chinese Imperial Palace in the heart of Beijing. Visitors are aware of the reported paranormal sightings and other nightmarish scenes, they brave to walk through the corridors of the palace only to know what lies within the four walls of the so-called Forbidden City. The food plaza at Dilli Haat is second to none in terms of taste, hygiene and ambience and you can relish hitherto unknown cuisines of this subcontinent at the stalls here. Flavors from various parts of the country, including Naga cuisines, are served on a platter. ‘Check in Bubble Café to enjoy flavors’ showcases culinary experiences at Bubble Café at The Gateway Hotel in Kochi which promises you what is all needed to make your dinner an ultimate culinary experience with excellent food, right ambience and mental peace. And don’t forget to catch some of the finest artworks of Spain at Raffles Dubai in November.
into the wild Serengeti Park
Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the top 10 wildlife photographers of the world
Location:
335 km from Arusha, stretching north to Kenya and bordering Lake Victoria to the west.
Best time to go:
Throughout the year,calving season from January to March. Wildebeest migration is from December to July.
Getting there:
There are airstrips throughout the park, allowing visitors to fly within reach of the camp booked.
Tanzanian Safari
S
cenes from Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, East Africa, which has the highest concentration of plains game in Africa with more than two million wildebeest, half a million Thomson’s gazelle and a quarter of a million zebra. You can have a wonderful time photographing lions, cheetahs, giraffes, zebras and other animals in the park.
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Travel News
News World Travel
WTM World Responsible Tourism Day celebrations from Nov 5
London (UK): The World Travel Market (WTM) will organise a World Responsible Tourism Day from November 5 to 7, at Excel London. The event is considered as the most ambitious movement ever in the international tourism industry. Several key members of the tourism sector across the world are expected to attend the three day conference and different topics relating to responsible tourism will be discussed at the event.
International Golf Market from Nov 11 Costa Daurada (Spain): The International Golf Market will be held from November 11 to 14 in Costa Duarada, Spain. The four-day event, widely regarded as the premier event in the golf travel industry, will bring together over 600 golf tourism suppliers, golf enthusiasts and 100 members of the international press.
World Ski Awards function on Nov 16 Kitzbuhel (Austria): A one of its kind World Ski Awards function will be held at the Grand SPA Resort, Kitzbueh in Austria on November 16. There are five categories of awards, including the best ski resort, hotel, chalet/lodge, inbound operator and boutique hotel. The function is expected to feature prominent members of the winter tourism industry.
Dubai Air Show from Nov 17 Dubai (UAE): The Dubai Air Show organiser, F&E Aerospace, has announced the 12th edition of the Dubai Air Show which will be held here from November 17 to 21. It will be the biggest air show
THE W IS COMORLD ING 17-21
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N
OVEM The D BE u to Du bai Airsho R 2013 bai W orld C w moves entra l #DXB
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in the world with the participation of nearly 1,000 exhibitors from over 50 countries and more than 55,000 visitors.
PATA hub city forum on Nov 26 Shanghai (China): The Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) will organise a hub city forum on November 26 at Shanghai, China. The event is held exclusively for key tourism industry stake holders and the high level media and government representatives to tackle issues in some of the key destinations.
NATHIC to be held from Nov 27
Washington DC (US): The North American Hotel and Tourism Investment Conference (NATHIC) will be held here from November 27 to 28. The two-day event as part of the International Hotel Investment Forum summit is expected to attract bigwigs from the hotel and tourism industry.
Social Media and Mobile Travel Asia event from Nov 27 Langham (Hong Kong): Social Media and Mobile Travel Asia event will be held from November 27 to 28. The event is expected to help companies gain critical perspectives on their brand’s social media and mobile marketing strategy. It will also help industry experts in conceiving ideas on the best way to utilize social media in the travel industry.
World Final Travel Awards ceremony on Nov 27 Las Vegas (US): The winners of the World Final Travel Awards 2013 will be announced at a gala ceremony on November 27 at Las Vegas, the US. The ceremony considered to be a grand finale for the year long events held across the world will see the presence of a number of prominent people from the world travel and tourism industry.
Travel Events
November Events Calendar DATE
EVENT
LOCATION
November 1-2 Dia de Muertos (Day of the dead) Oaxaca, Mexico November1-2 Fete Gede Port-au-Prince, Haiti November 1-3 Canoe & Kundu Festival Alotau, Papua New Guinea November 1-5 La Diablada Puno, Peru November 5 Guy Fawkes Day England, UK November 5 Melbourne Cup Melbourne, Australia November 6-17 Pushkar Camel Fair Pushkar, Rajasthan November 7 Pirate Festival Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands November 8 Gioco Dell’oca Mirano, Italy November 9 The Lord Mayors Show London, England November 9 Räbechilbi Turnip Festival Richterswil, Switzerland November 12 Festa del Cornuto (Festival Of The Horned One) Rocca Canterano, Italy November 12 Tori-No-Ichi (Day of the Rooster) Tokyo, Japan November 15 Shichi-Go-San Japan November 16-17 Surin Elephant Round-up Surin, Thailand November 17 Guru Nanak Jayanti Amritsar, Punjab November 20-24 Broome Mango Festival Broome, Australia November 25 Lopburi Banquet Thailand November 26 Brotherhood of the Goat Festival Limousin, France November 28 Thanksgiving US November 30 Cooper Capers Washington, USA
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Vibrant Gujarat
Photos: Salim Pushpanath, Rateesh Kariyam
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Gateway to
Indian culture, tradition
Gujarat is perhaps the only place in the country which can offer a variety of things on a platter to tourists. Pilgrims, historians and fun-loving ordinary tourists alike can quench their thirst while taking a trip around the state T&F Team
T
he popularity of Gujarat as one of the most culturally diverse states in India has gone beyond the boundaries of our nation. Traditionally, the people of Gujarat are a business community. Tradition, culture and ethnicity peep out from every nook and cranny of the state. So one may not wonder why the state features in the must visit destinations of the country. Apart from being the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, the state has ancient temples, colourful festivals and fairs, wildlife sanctuaries and archaeological sites to make it a truly tempting destination for tourists. The state’s architectural splendour is one of the most talked about in the world, especially the intricately carved temples, mosques and the wooden havelis and step wells. These wonderful structures built in various periods demonstrate the extraordinary skills of artisans in the region. The best time to visit Gujarat is from November to March but for those seeking adventures, the monsoon season is the best as the air is cool and the sky is murky during the time. Although summer can be a bit of a bother owing to the rising temperature, there is something for everyone in Gujarat throughout the year. Thanks to extreme weather conditions, there is diversity in flora and fauna of the state much to the delight of wildlife enthusiasts. A safari through the scorching sands of Rann of Kutch and the Gir National Park isn’t an experience one would wish to forget in a lifetime. As far as a history lover is concerned, the state remains to be a treasure trove
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Villagers in Gujarat with so many historically important sites like the remnants of the Indus Valley Civilization, various dynasties that ruled the region and the recent Independence movement related places. The archaeological sites of Dholavira and Lothal are important relics of the ancient civilization that flourished between 2600 and 1900 BC. The Lothal site museum and Dholavira are the most visited tourist spots relating to the Harappan Civilization. The archaeological sites of Champaner and Pavagadh are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Coming here, you can spot a variety of monuments, including forts,
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temples, mosques and pavilions. Gujarat is not just known for its ancient forts and palaces but has played a significant role in modern history. Having witnessed several Independence movements such as the famous Salt Satyagraha and the Kheda Satyagraha, Bardoli has become one of the most visited sites today. Has pilgrimage taken a backseat in the state? Gujarat has been a thriving pilgrimage centre for people with various religious thoughts. The state is a stronghold of Buddhism with many Buddhist cave sites and relics at Devni Mori and the ruins of a huge Buddhist University at
Vadnagar. Hindusim has etched its mark as well. The astounding temples at Somnath, Ambaji and of course Dwaraka bear testimonies. Jainism has made a significant mark here as is evident from the towering temple complex at Palitana and Girnar. Tourists coming here can enjoy the traditional services offered by heritage hotels, converted forts, palaces, havelis and so on. They offer tourists a rare opportunity to stay in historic buildings and interact with the owners, and foreign tourists unfamiliar with Indian culture and customs get a firsthand account of the traditions of the country.
TM
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Upbeat with festivals &
fairs
Gujarat is vibrant with numerous festivals and religious ceremonies reflecting the Indian heritage and culture. Festivals are an important part of the tradition and here you get to see the vivid shades of India as we take you through the stunning spectrum of festivals and fairs in the western state of Gujarat T&F Team
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Shamlaji temple fest and fair
At the Shamlaji Fair, known as the Karthik Purnima Fair, held in November, you enter a world of piety and devotion to the God. The Shamlaji temple which hosts the two-week long fair is a well known Vaishnava shrine whose main deity is known by various names such as Gadadhar or bearer of the mace and Shakshi Gopal. During the festival, devotees irrespective of caste and creed throng the temple. They come in groups singing devotional songs and holding religious banners. The main attraction of the festival is the exhibition and sale of artifacts.
Tarnetar Fair, a celebration of ethnicity
If you’re looking for a way to unwind and let loose some steam, then pack your bags and head to Tarnetar where you can revel in the colours and shades of the Trinetreshwar Mahadev Fair known as the Tarnetar Fair. The fair owes its origin to the legends of Draupadi’s swayamwara and is a celebration of the ethnicity that one finds in the Gujarati folk dance, music, customs, arts and culture. It is also an occasion for those looking for perfect life partners. Even if you’re not interested in the matchmaking aspect of the festival, there is still plenty to captivate you. Colourful ceremonies, glittering ornaments, swift movements of dancers and the beat of the folk musicians together create memorable moments for those coming here.
Nine nights of fun and frolic
A Gujarati woman in her traditional attire
No talks of festivals of India would ever be complete without Navratri, the festival of nine nights, a time when the whole of India awakes to her cultural heritage and glory. During the nine days of the festival, Gujarat literally comes alive and becomes a fascinating place. You can’t help participate in the festivities that take place all around. You get sucked into the music, the dance, the revelry and of course the devotion that is in the air. There are
Traditional lamp lit for Diwali celebrations
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
International Kite Festival celebrations
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plenty of costumed dancers, swaying to religious as well as Bollywood music, special pujas and foods- all these make the whole festivity resemble some kind of desi party. Navratri is celebrated throughout the country but the fervour and flamboyance are very high in Gujarat. The festival is a nine-day dedication to the mother Goddess Shakthi who manifests in various forms.
Fly high with International Kite Festival
Coinciding with the festival of Makar Sankranti or Uttarayan, the International Kite Festival is held in the major cities of Gujarat every year on January 14. The festival is celebrated to mark the end of winter. Though Uttarayan is celebrated all over Gujarat, the tempo is high in Ahmedabad, Surat, Nadiad and Vadodara. Among them, Surat is famous for the strong string which is made by smearing glass powder on the thread to offer it a cutting edge. The International Kite Festival has been held in the city of Ahmedabad since 1989 and one can view varieties of kites, from box kites to high-speed sport kites, from windsocs and spinsocs to hand painted artistic kites on this day. The festival draws professional kite-makers and flyers not only from cities of India but also from other parts of the globe.
Dance extravaganza at Modhera
Situated on the banks of the river Pushpvati, the Sun Temple at Modhera in Mehsana district was once a grand temple. Organised by the Gujarat government cultural department, Modhera Dance Festival is the major festival at the Sun Temple. This festival takes place in the third week of January and the three-day event marks the conclusion of the Uttarayan festival. The highlight of the Modhera Dance Festival is the typical ‘garba’ performance, regarded as the trademark of Gujarat. The ‘garba’ is performed by dancers in colourful costumes. When compared to other festivals in the state, the ‘garba’ stands out owing to its varied cultural hues and the grace and elegance of the dancers. A gathering of classical and folk dancers from all over India is the biggest attraction of Modhera Dance Festival.
Desert pageantry at Rann
Rann Utsav is celebrated every year during December and January. The Gujarat Tourism Department organises this cultural and artistic
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Girls performing Dandiya
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event. Rann Utsav takes place at different places in the Rann of Kutch and showcases traditional art forms of India. It also celebrates the uniqueness and diversity of the Kutch district emphasizing the cultural magnificence of Gujarat. The fest has a variety of programmes like folk dances, craftsmanship, music, carnival processions and pageantry.
Religious fervour at Vautha Fair
To witness tens of thousands of camels and donkeys, all decked up in an array of bright colours along with a fanfare you take a trip to Gujarat in the month of Karthik. Considered to be one of the largest animal fairs in the country, Vautha Fair is held at the meeting point of two rivers, the Sabarmati and the Vatrak. The legend has it that Karthik, the son of Lord Shiva, paid a visit to the spot and the fair is held to honour that incident. For the people coming here, this place is quite divine and many communities consider this fair to be more important and auspicious than Diwali. According to the custom, people camp in nearly 2,000 tents erected on the river banks. Hundreds of families from nearby villages move to these tents for five days and the atmosphere becomes quite festive.
Light up your life with diwali
Diwali is not just a festival for many communities across the country, it’s a time when legends, beliefs and facts come together and the result is a fiesta of lights, fireworks, sweets and feasting. Gujarat is no exception when it comes to the spectacular diwali celebrations that stretch for five whole days. The festival symbolises the culture and tradition of India that teaches us to vanquish ignorance and embrace light rather than live in darkness. Every home gets a new look after a rigorous session of spring cleaning and is decorated with glowing orange diyas to welcome Goddess Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, which is done on the first day. The second day of the festival is dedicated to casting off evil spirits while the third and fourth days are dedicated to warding off darkness symbolically by lighting earthen lamps and temple worship respectively. The fifth day is seen as the perfect day to begin any venture.
A local market before Holi
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
A woman feeding cattle in the courtyard of her home
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High voltage ‘dandiya’ and ‘garba ras’
The name ‘dandiya’ brings to mind images of men and women with long sticks spinning around to the fast paced music. The ‘dandiya’ and ‘garba ras’ are the hallmarks of the state. The ‘garba ras’ or the circular dance is done around an earthen pot named the ‘garbo’ which is filled with water and on which a betel nut and a silver coin are placed. The dance begins slowly with the dancers whirling around the pot and singing traditional songs while clapping their hands rhythmically. The dance slowly gains momentum. The ‘dandiya’, on the other hand, is a popular aspect of navratri and is one of the most popular Gujarati folk dances known to the outside world. Men and women perform the dance in a circle wielding small polished sticks called the dandie. The dances are so popular that arrangements are made for competitions and community performances as well.
Paying obeisance to Lord Shiva
Bhavnath Mahadev Mela at the Bhavnath Mahadev Temple is a five-day fair held during the festival of Mahashivratri. The temple is situated at the foothills of Mount Girnar in Junagarh, Gujarat. The Mahapuja of Lord Shiva takes place at midnight at the temple on the 14th day of the dark half of the month of Magh, as per the Hindu calendar. When the prayer ceremony starts, the Naga Babas, living nearby, march towards the Bhavnath Mahadev Mela. They are naked sages who can be seen seated on elephants, holding flags in their hands and blowing shells. The sages show their gratefulness to the Lord by shouting His name and seek His blessings. According to the belief, Lord Shiva himself visits
the shrine on this holy occasion. Stalls selling idols, rosaries or holy beads, utensils of brass and copper, sweets and fruits flank the venue of the fair.
Festival of colours
Holi, the festival of colours, is celebrated on the full moon day in the month of Phalguna. This festival marks the agricultural season of the Rabi crops and also marks the end of winter. The first day of the fest is observed with fasting and prayers to a bonfire while the second day known as ‘dhuleti’ is marked by sprinkling and splashing coloured water and powder on each other accompanied by music and dance.
Celebrating the birth of Lord Krishna
The birthday of Lord Krishna-Krishna Janmashtami-is one of the most popular festivals in Gujarat due to the fact that Dwarka, the kingdom of Lord Krishna, is located here. The celebration of Janmashtami in the main Dwarkadhish Temple is very famous in India. Pilgrims from all over the country visit the temple and devotional songs in praise of Lord Krishna are sung on the occasion. The Lord is worshipped in his infant form and a wide range of sweets are prepared in honour of the Lord.
Bhadra Purnima Fair
Bhadra Purnima Fair is held in the month of September for three days. The fair is held on the full moon day at Ambaji Temple in Ambaji, Gujarat. The idol is represented by a triangular Vishwayantra, emblazoned with figures and the syllable ‘Shree’ in the centre. In the evening, the ‘bhavai’ and ‘garba’ dances are performed. Devotees attend readings of the Sapatashati, the seven hundred verses in praise of the Goddess, and visit the temple for an auspicious view of the deity. November 2013 travel & flavors
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Buddhist circuit
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If you are under the notion that a pilgrimage to Gujarat would encompass merely Hindu and Jain temples, you have to analyse facts as Buddhism like other faiths has had a firm foothold in the state. Rock edicts, stupas and several ancient caves here bear the testimony to the fact that the rulers and the people in the region had embraced Buddhism T&F Team
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
B
uddhism first flourished in Gujarat during the reign of Emperor Asoka in the third century BC. One of the most important rock edicts of Asoka can be seen at Junagadh. After the end of the Mauryan Empire, Buddhism was still patronised in the state during the reign of the Western Khsatrapas from the first century AD. The Maitraka rulers also patronised Buddhism along with Hinduism and Jainism during their reign from 47 AD. According to the travelogue of Hieun Tsang who visited India during the reign of the Maitraka rulers, Gujarat was found to be a thriving centre of both Mahayana and Hinayana Buddhism. Archaeological excavations in the state have led to the discovery of various terracotta Buddhist figurines, Boddhistava images and bronze Buddha statues. While on the Buddhist trail in Gujarat, the rich legacy left behind by various dynasties that embraced Buddhism will draw your attention. South of Shamlaji, way past a bridge that leads off the National Highway across the Mesho River is a path that leads straight to the village of Devni Mori. The village came to light after excavations revealed the presence of a substantial Buddhist site with a stupa and a relics casket, the latter of them now resides in Vadodara. The inscriptions on the upper casket state that it contains relics of Lord Buddha, gold bottles, burnt sandalwood, beads, gold and silver foil along with silk. A replica of the casket is now kept in
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Shamlaji Museum along with Buddhist sculptures found at Sabarkanta district. From Devni Mori, moving on to Vadnagar, one would be able to spot a huge Buddhist site believed to be the ancient town of Anantpur, discovered around the Ghaskol Darwaja. In the travelogue, Hieun Tsang describes the town as a wealthy place with nearly 1,000 monks, 10 Buddhist monasteries and so on. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has also excavated Buddhist sculptures and what is believed to be evidences of a settlement along with a 1,900-year-old artifact depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. As you move from Vadnagar to Talaja, situated south of the National Highway 8, a stretch of 28 caves can be found atop a cone shaped hill which houses a Jain temple at its summit. The most precious of the Buddhist relics found here is the Ebhala Mandapa which has a large hall with octagonal pillars. A ruined Chaitya-griha with a stupa that has an ancient version of the vedika and a horse shoe shaped window is the highlight. A detour from Timbi on NH 8 takes you to Vakia village after which you get to Sana Dungar, a series of hills with caves. More than 60 caves have been found in these hills, some of which date back to the first century BC to the second century AD. The Bhimchory Cave with octagonal pillars and a stone bench, and a chaityagriha with a plain stupa are the other striking features of the place. Moving from here to the Khambalida Caves is a truly remarkable experience. These are some of the most impressive Buddhist
Khapra-Kodiya Buddhist Caves at Junagadh
Amitabh Bachchan, the brand ambassador of Gujarat Tourism with buddhist monks as part of a promotional event
caves and the entrance to one of them is marked with Boddhitsava sculptures. The cave is a place of considerable interest owing to the fact that it is one of the very few with identifiable carvings of Boddhitsavas. Of all the Buddhist sites in Gujarat, no one has been as captivating as Junagadh which is a third century rock inscription of Emperor Asoka that has an English translation for the benefit of visitors. The museum now exhibits Buddhist relics from the region, including the Bori Stupa that was discovered in the hills near Girnar. Another relic found in Junagadh is a vihara dating back to 199 AD. From Junagadh, on the way to Bhuj, you can come across a village called Ghaduliya from where a detour takes you to Siyot Caves which house a series of relics dating back to the first century AD. As you move from the last of the Buddhist destinations, you can feel the intensity of splendid arts and architecture that showcase a rich Buddhist tradition in Gujarat.
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Gir forest
safari A safari through the Gir forest wildlife sanctuary in Gujarat would be an experience as it is home to many species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Don’t miss the chance to see the majestic Asiatic lion in the sanctuary during your itinerary Lakshmi Narayanan
T
he sheer magnificence of the Gir lion is such that you just end up staring at the regal beast which would bowl you over with its elegance. Though I have seen the predator many a time in the Discovery channel documentaries, I was struck dumb literally when I saw a lion for the first time in the Gir forest wildlife sanctuary after a
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long wait. The Gir forest and wildlife sanctuary, opened in the year 1965, is the most sought-after adventure tour destination in Gujarat. Known as the home of the Asiatic lion in the world, the tourist area of the sanctuary is spread over 1,412 sq km, including the undulated land, meandering paths and the dry forest. It’s a paradise of biological diversity and is the abode of about 38 species of mammals, 37
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species of reptiles, around 300 species of birds and more than 2,000 species of insects. Carnivores here include the Asiatic lion, leopard, jungle cat, hyena, jackal, ratel, desert cat and the civet cat while herbivores include the chital, nilgai, sambar, fourhorned antelope, chinkara and wild boar. Also known as a bird watcher’s delight, Gir is the destination for hundreds of varieties of birds, including serpent
eagle, king vulture, woodpecker, bush quail, brown fish owl, crest swift, and the Indian pitta. Another vital attraction of the Gir forest is the presence of local tribes and the tourists get a chance to interact with them. The Gir National Park is open from October to mid-June. Gir has a tropical climate of three seasons- summer, winter and monsoon. The temperature drops in winter and rises in summer.
A female spotted deer at Gir forest
Getting There Diu Airport- 110 km, Rajkot Airport-150 km By Road: Ahmedabad to Sasan (381 km), Somnath to Sasan (45 km), Junagadh to Sasan (60 km), Rajkot to Sasan (150 km)
An Asiatic lion & lioness at the forest
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
A peek into
heritage
sites
Gujarat is a rich land which is synonymous with the culture and tradition of India. Lots of places of historical as well as religious importance make your visit to the state an enriching experience. Dwarka, Somnath and Sabarmati are some of them T&F Team
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Dwarka
A sadhu at Somnath Temple
Dwarka as one of the holiest temples in India remains the prime pilgrimage spot. Hindu myths place Dwarka as one of the most important destinations ever due to its importance as the kingdom of Lord Krishna. The town is dominated by the multi-storey shikara tower of the Dwarkadish temple which looms over the entire city. Located at the estuary of the Gomti River, the temple forms part of the Vaishnavite Chardham Yatra that includes Badrinath, Puri and Rameshwaram. Dwarkadish features some of the finest works of architecture with intricate carvings on its walls, an impressive and majestic shikara tower and ornate balconies. Legend has it that a temple was built at the site by the great grandson of Lord Krishna but was renovated to its present form during the 16th century in the Chalukyan style of architecture. The temple rises to a height of 51.8 metre and is also known as Jagat Mandir. The 60 carved pillars featuring a number of sculptures that depict the influence of various dynasties like the Guptas, Pallavas, Chavda and others that ruled Dwarka are a truly spectacular site. According to the Hindu mythology, the temple was constructed in a single day by Viswakarma, the God of construction. The main deity of the temple made of black stone depicts Lord Krishna as Dwarkadish or the Lord of Dwarka. The idol is designed with four hands, each carrying a conch, the Sudarshana Chakra, a mace and a lotus. The lingam of Nageshwar near Dwarka is a place of worship for devotees of Lord Shiva.
A pilgrim being carried to the top of Mount Shatrunjaya
Sabarmati
Perhaps one of the most iconic destinations within Gujarat, the Sabarmati Ashram gains its popularity due to the fact that it was one of the residences of Mahatma Gandhi. It was from here that Gandhiji led the famed Salt Satyagraha in 2930. Recognizing the historic significance of the place, the Indian government transformed the Ashram as a national monument and today it is one of the most visited spots in Gujarat. The ashram now has a museum called the Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalay which houses some of the well known relics from the PreIndependence era. It would be fulfilling to visit Porbandar after Sabarmati as it gains its popularity as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. Those flocking to the spot to see the site where the Mahatma was born also visit the Kirti Mandir, a monument built in memory of the great leader and his wife Kasturba
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
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Somnath
Somnath is perhaps one of the most well known Shiva temples of Gujarat and is the site for one of the 12 jyotirlingas, a shrine where Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of a pillar of light. The temple is considered by devotees of Lord Shiva to be the prime abode of the Lord and the holiest of all jyotirlingas. The etymology of the name Somnath means ‘the protector of the moon god’ and the temple is considered to be an eternal shrine owing to the fact that it has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. According to devotees of Lord Shiva, the jyotrilinga is the supreme reality out of which the Lord appears. The jytorilinga shrines thus depict Shiva as a fiery column of light. The temple has been rebuilt nearly six times and the design of the temple follows the Chalukya style of architecture. The beauty of the temple is enhanced as it is located near seaside. Devotees can also take time off to visit other temples such as the Krishna temple of Tulsishyam, the Shiva Shrine at Bhavnath and the temples atop Mount Girnar that overlooks Juanagarh, all of which are a truly sanctifying experience for pilgrims.
Palitana
Palitana temple complex
If you think that a pilgrimage to Gujarat is all about Hindu temples and Hindu mythological places, you’re mistaken. The Palitana complex is a truly spectacular Jain temple that will take your breath away. The spectacular temple complex houses nearly 900 temples and is one of the most important Jain pilgrimage centres in the country. The structure is perched atop the Shatrunjaya Peak and the nearest township is Palitana. It is the world’s only mountain temple complex with each one exquisitely carved in marble. The main temple atop the hill is dedicated to the first Jain thirthankara Lord Adinath. A spiritual journey to some of India’s most sacred places of worship is sure to give peace and harmony. Gujarat is a state which has plenty of places of religious as well as historical importance.
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Kutch makes Gujarat
proud Kutch consisting of a vast area of Gujarat is the cultural centre of the state. Arts and crafts have thrived in all villages here and they have been the mainstay of villagers whose exceptional knowledge and skills in art works are world famous Tony William
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Salt workers at Little Rann of Kutch
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“K
utch nahi dekha to kuch nahi dekha!” This ad copy line meaning if you have not seen Kutch, you have not seen anything at all catches the essence that vibrant Kutch offers to travellers. Kutch, the largest district not only in Gujarat but also in India, is a wetland called the Rann of Kutch which is further divided into Great Rann of Kutch and Little Rann of Kutch. Starting from Bhuj, the whole place has got much historical significance as it is linked to the Indus Valley Civilization and the dynasties around it and the Kutch Museum would be the ideal place to begin this journey. Founded in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji, the Kutch Museum has the largest collection of Kshatrapa inscriptions, dating back to the 1st century AD, as well as samples of the extinct Kutchi script (now the language is mostly written in the Gujarati alphabets) and an interesting collection of coins (including the kori, Kutch’s local currency.) History lovers would like the section of the museum devoted to tribal cultures. Bharatiya Sankriti Darshan located at Bhuj has an excellent collection of Kutchi folk arts and crafts, especially from the remotest regions of the district. The exhibits of rural architecture, paintings, textile arts and archaeological specimens will take you back to the history of the remote villages of Kutch.
Prag Mahal
Prag Mahal is a 19th century palace at Bhuj made of Italian marble and sandstone from Rajasthan. Despite the damage caused by an earthquake, its exuberant Durbar Hall with broken chandeliers and gold-skirted classical statues is worth a visit. It was a location for several Gujarati films and the much acclaimed Bollywood movie Lagaan.
Aina Mahal
Built in 1752, Aaina Mahal has got an awesome Hall of Mirrors. The hall has white marble walls that are covered with mirrors and glided ornaments. The building in the Indo-European architectural style has got a fantastic 15.2m scroll showing a Kutch state procession.
Colourful villages
Villages in Gujarat are very special and have precious things to offer to the admirers of arts and crafts. Village people have practically carried on their skills and knowledge in art works for generations. Vibrant colours and complex art works and intricate wood works can be found in almost all villages in the state even today. A visit to a few of these villages is worthwhile. Bhujodi is a small town in Bhuj and is famous for pit loom weaving. A centre of textile handicraft production, the town is well-known for its weavers, tie-dye artists and block printers. Their crafts are known for its durability. In the olden days, the turbans weaved by the Vankars, a community, were known to last 50 years. Ashapura Crafts Park set up by a corporate non-profits wing to help artisans display and sell their works is organising dance and music events on weekends. The Shrujanb (a non-profit organisation) campus is another location where you would get local crafts with embroidery. You can visit Ajrakhpur and Dhamadka which are known for their vegetable dye block printing on saris and salwar kameez. The villagesDhaneti where Ahir women do fine embroidery, Padhhar which is also an embroidery village and the town of Anjar, a centre for bandhani tiedye and metal crafts- exhibit talents in arts and crafts. At Nirona, you can find the famous textile art called Roghan which involves painting on fabric using gooey safflower and castor oil-based colours. The art form
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat which traces its origin to Syria needs exceptional skills and much time. If you aren’t interested in textiles, catch the essence of bell-making at Nirona, Zura and Nakhtrana. Hear the resonance produced by the iron bells enameled in copper and bronze, in so many shapes and sizes. At Bhuj, each village has different styles of embroidery. There are villages which specialise in a particular embroidery. The Jaths and the Mutwas have their own ethnic style. Marvel at the styles like ‘suf’ where the artist displays virtuosity in detailing, filling symmetrical patterns with tiny triangles, ‘khaarek’ stitches which fill the entire fabric, and ‘paako’, the tight square chain and double buttonhole stitched embroidery.
Great Rann of Kutch
The Kala Dungar Hills, the highest point in Kutch at 462 m, is the best place to get the panoramic view of Great Rann of Kutch. The largest salt desert in the world, Great Rann of Kutch spans an area of 7,505.22 sq km. It is home to a wide array of flora and fauna. It is also a place for migratory birds like the pink feathered flamingos. It is the only place in India where these feathered beauties lay eggs and bring up their chicks. One of the hottest places in the country, the summer temperatures can go up to 49.5°C while the lowest recorded winter temperature is below 0 °C (32 °F). Banni Grasslands Reserve is located in the southern edge of the desert. A belt of dry grassland ecosystem, Banni has got rich wildlife and biodiversity. Spread over an area of 3,847 sq km, Banni is today a reserve forest and one of the remaining habitats of the cheetah in India.
Little Rann of Kutch
Little Rann of Kutch is known for its vast salt pans and the wild ass sanctuary, the only place in India where you can spot the endangered Indian wild ass. Little Rann of Kutch literally means ‘Little Desert of Kutch’ and is believed to be a part of the Arabian Sea long back. The vast, barren landscape has an incredible beauty all of its own. During monsoon, the desert apparently turns into a sea of mud. Chances of spotting the wild ass and the other species of mammals like the chinkara (Indian gazelle), Indian and white footed desert
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fox, jackals, caracals (African lynx), nilgais (the largest antelope of Asia), Indian wolves, blackbucks, and striped hyenas are high. The common demoiselle cranes, the blue-tailed bee-eater, the houbara bustard, sand grouses, desert wheatears, lark, the white-browed bulbul, Indian coursers, stone plovers, shrikes, ducks, geese, ibis, spoonbills, godwits, stints, sandpipers, shanks, moorhens, saras cranes, Indian flamingoes, and three species of pelican are some of the birds found in the region. Salt panning has been there for many years and today it seems to be a threat to the wild ass shrinking their territory. While Agariyas, the traditional salt makers, claim that they are protectors of the wild ass, forest officials state that they are unable to differentiate between hunters and farmers.
Places of worship in Kutch
For the Hindus, Kutch offers many places of worship. Narayan Sarovar, a beautiful area with multiple fresh lakes close to Gulf of Kutch and located 125 km from Bhuj, is a sacred place for Hindus. The temple of Ashapura Mata is located at Kutch where Mata was worshiped as Kuldevi or the patron goddess by the Jadeja rulers. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Koteshwar temple is located about 215 km from Bhuj. The temple on a high plinth overlooking the sea is the last outpost at the westernmost limit of India where you can enjoy a beautiful sunset. For Jain pilgrims, Palitana is a delight. Located 56 km from Bhuj, it has beautiful beaches and wildlife apart from the spectacular temple sites. The Shatrunjaya Hill nearby houses approximately 900 big and small Jain temples dedicated to the 24 Jain Tirthankarars. At Lakhpat, 151 km from Bhuj, the last town in the western part of India, there are a Gurudwara and a beautiful tomb of Gosh Muhammad (famous saint) constructed with hard black stones. The Gurudwara Sahib of Lakhpat where Guru Nanak’s footwear and the palkhi are worshipped is also worth a visit. Other places of worship include the Gosh Mohammad Kuba, Syed Pir Shah Dargah and Nani Mai Dargah.
Village women in colourful traditional attire carrying water in Kutch
Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Simple but
exotic delicacies Gujarati cuisine exhibits the very characteristics of the state. The aroma that wafts through the walls of a Gujarati kitchen speaks volumes about the efforts, love and generosity that go into the preparation of the dishes which vary from one region to the other Neethu Mohan
Photos: thalivegetarian.com
Gujarati thali
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Dhokla
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ujarati menu encompasses a curry section accompanied by either a variety of rice or Rotli. Owing to its vast coastline, one may be tempted to assume that seafood is a major component of the staple diet. But thanks to the heavy influence of traditional Hinduism and Jain vegetarianism, the natives prefer a pure vegetarian diet. Homemade pickles, chaas (buttermilk), salad etc consist of a perfect Gujarati staple food. Mostly the main course includes dal and steamed vegetables. Depending on the availability, Gujarati cuisine differs in each season. In summer, spices such as black pepper and its constituents are used in lesser quantities.
Regional delicacies
Gujarat has four regions and each has its own unique delights. Gujarati thali consisting of dal, rice, curry, sprouted beans, vegetables,
farsan, chutney, raita and pickle is quite popular. The farsan in North Gujarati thali varies from dhokla, khandvi, khaman and pathara. The most popular foods in Kathiawad include debras made with wheat flour mixed with spinach, green chilies, a dollop of yogurt and a pinch of salt and sugar which is usually consumed with chhundo (sweet and hot mango pickle). Kutch cuisine is very simple and the main dishes include khichdi (mainly eaten with yogurt-based kadhi). The other popular recipes are khamam dhokla (salty and steamed cake) and shrikand (yogurtbased dessert flavored with cardamom, candied fruits, nuts, and saffron) which is eaten with puri and doodhpak (thickened milk). Southern Gujarati food is dominated by green vegetables and fruits. The food boasts of simplicity because of the absence of expensive ingredients and exotic taste. Popular items include paunk, a vegetable concoction, and undhyoo.
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Cover Story Vibrant Gujarat
Ambaji Tarangana Hill Rann of Kutch Modhera Bhuj
Sabarmati Ahmedabad Rajkot Dwarka
Vadodara
Lothal
Jamnagar
Palitana Junagadh Talaja
Surat
Gir Forest Somnath
Travel Info LOCATION Gujarat borders Pakistan and Rajasthan to the north east, Madhya Pradesh to the east, Maharastra and the Union territories of Diu, Dadra and Nagar Haveli in the south
By Air Ahmedabad is connected to major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai by daily services and has its own International Airport, the ‘Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport’, which connects nations worldwide. The State’s other
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Airports are Vadodara, Surat, Kandla, Jamnagar, Keshod, Porbandar, Bhavnagar and Bhuj. By Rail: Ahmedabad Railway station connects you to major cities and towns in Gujarat. All major trains have a stop here. By Road: Gujarat has approximately 72,165 kms of roads and is well connected to other Indian states by road and rail. National Highway 8
Connects AhmedabadLimbdi-Morbi-Kandla National Highway 8
Connects Bamanbor – Rajkot
– Gondal – Jetpur and Porbandar National Highway 8
Connects Chiloda – Gandhinagar and Sarkhej The first Express Highway number 1 has been operational between Ahmedabad and Vadodara
Travel Tip Gujarat is a dry state but alcohol permits for foreign visitors are easily available at most large hotels with a wine shop if you show your passport and a letter from the hotel you stay.
Thus Spake Theshots Dhobi Ghat
Dhobi Ghat
Mumbai’s laundry lane
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Sarath Babu M G
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hobi Ghat is an open air Laundromat, where dhobis (laundrymen) work in rows of openair concrete wash pens to wash clothes coming from homes, hotels and hospitals. It is a unique feature of Mumbai where dhobis collect the dirty laundry, wash, press it and return it at the doorstep. A dhobi stands at the washing stone for nearly 16 hours a day and the ghat is open 24 x 7. The most famous Dhobi Ghat is located at Saat Rasta near the Mahalaxmi railway station where around 5,000 dhobis from approximately 200 families wash more than 100,000 clothes per day on 731 washing pens each fitted with a stone. The old-fashioned washing place has also been equipped with an automatic laundry machine. These days, hand wash is done only in the morning hours (from 5am to 9am) and despite the mechanisation, it remains the major attraction.
CUlinary Delights The Bubble cafe
Check in Bubble Café to
enjoy flavors Photos: Jose Jacob
Excellent food, right ambience and mental peace are the main ingredients for the ultimate culinary experience and lack of them could spoil the occasion. What to do if you don’t feel like a `fish out of water’ even when you are privileged to dine like a royal? Bubble Café is the answer as it promises you all these Neethu Mohan
Chilly con carne-tenderloin
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F
or about a decade and a half, Bubble Café at The Gateway Hotel in Kochi has been a favourite destination for food junkies. Over the years, the restaurant has managed to bring flavors from 15 countries to patrons’ tables. Commemorating 15 years of its existence, Bubble Café organised a food festival with a spread worth dying for. This is not the restaurant’s first food festival, so what’s special about this one? Aptly titled ‘Around the World in 15 Days’, the festival proudly offered cuisines from 15 nations across the world.
This is a recap of sorts about what the restaurant has served over its past 15 years. At the cafe, you just can’t make up your mind whether to start with an Italian Bruschetta, or go for a Sri Lankan Fish Amar Thunga, or dive straight into a Jade Seafood Soup, or simply settle for our very own dishes. Whatever be your food preferences, the menu ensures that you are always spoilt for choice. For those who are health conscious, there is a variety of salads that includes seafood cocktail, mixed sprouts,salad, American beauty and green salad. Regional dishes such as the beef ularthiyathu, kozhi
Punjabi Murgu Masala
Bruschetta
Kothameer venkaya
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CUlinary Delights The Bubble cafe
Kozhi porichathu
Pork ribs live
porichathu, crab pepper masala, the North Indian nihari gosht and dhingri dholma and the Punjabi murgh masala make sure that those who prefer to stay loyal to Indian tastes are not left disappointed. Those who have a penchant for steaks and grills are sure to be delighted with the pork ribs and the chicken steak. And just when you thought it was all over, the choice of desserts puts you in an absolute soup. To be surrounded by the rich creamy sweet delights from across the world and not tuck into it would be nothing short of torture. Grab a Baked Cheese Cake and allow it to melt slowly in your mouth. And while you’re at it, make up your mind whether you want to go for the caramelized banana, or the fresh fruit triffle or a simple payasam. “This food festival is intended to be an opportunity for our loyal patrons to take a trip down memory lane and relive the delicacies they have relished here through the past 15 years,” says Executive Chef Jaffer Ali. As you walk away from the food fiesta, you may feel as if you’ve had the ultimate royal dining experience with delights from across the world. The delicacies on offer at the Bubble Café are always thrilling, but when there’s a food festival, you may have a goofy grin on your face as you have to make up your mind on the choice of food.
Baked fish with fresh herbs and orange
Executive Chef Jaffer Ali
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Undisputed Leadership In Quality
An ISO 9001 - 2008 Certified Company
FRP House Boat Hull
FRP House Boat with various options
Surf Module-Sea Canoe (Single Seater)
Surf Module-Sea Canoe (Double Seater)
Family Canoe
Row Boat
Pedal Boat
Power Boat “Splendor”
Speed Boat “Ecstasy”
Speed Boat “Freedom”
Speed Boat “Sparrow”
Water Scooter
Pontoon Boat
Passenger Boat
Ice Box
Floating Cottages Built on ferro cement floats
House Boats Power Boats Work Boats Catamarans Puf Insulated Containers
Unique Festivals
Displaying masked skulls to honour the dead The people in Mexico have a unique way of pleasing their forefathers. They celebrate the Day of the Dead, displaying masked skulls beside their dinner tables. Seems too scary doesn’t it? But for them it is an important occassion
Dia de Muertos
When: November 1-2 Where: Mexico
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H
ave you ever imagined a dinner served in the candlelight surrounded by leering skulls with foods and drinks set to bring chills to your spine? It is not everyone’s idea of a hearty meal but in Mexico, people observe such rituals as part of the Dia de Muertos, better known as the Day of the Dead. The festival of Dia de Muertos though observed in its purest form only in Mexico falls on the same day that Christian nations across the world observe the Catholic holiday of All Saints Day and All Souls Day. The observance is basically to honour the departed. The rituals associated with the day include building of private altars with sugar skulls, marigolds and the favourite food and beverage of the departed ancestors. The eerie atmosphere that the altar and the skulls and the marigolds give off may make the whole thing seem as spooky as a Halloween celebration. To top it off, the fact that locales believe that the
souls of the dead come visiting that day makes it look downright creepy. On the day of the festival, people visit cemeteries to spend some time with the departed souls. When large families gather on the occasion, the festivities could take a humorous turn with stories relating to the departed family members being shared. Although the celebrations take place in cemeteries, some families prefer to build the altars and shrines in their homes. The altars also contain Christian crosses and statues or pictures of the Virgin Mary, pictures of the deceased and lit candles. The most important symbol of the festival is the masked skulls. The rituals of the Day of the Dead can be traced to pre-Columbian days. In the pre-Hispanic era, skulls were kept as trophies and displayed during the rituals to indicate death and rebirth. In most of the regions in Mexico, November 1 is the day to honour dead children and infants while November 2 is for dead adults.
C A grand fair for
one and all
The small town of Pushkar is all set to host the famous camel fair in November. The popularity of the festival is steadily growing with a large number of people from within the country and abroad participating in the event every year
Pushkar When: November 6-17 Camel Fair Where: Pushkar, Rajasthan
ome November and Pushkar, a town in Ajmer, Rajasthan, would be all decked up for the biggest event of the year. It’s that time of the year when camels get all the attention with the biggest livestock fair in the world being held in this small town. Pushkar Camel Fair in the town draws huge crowds every November. Pushkar is famous because India’s lone Brahma temple is located here, but the annual camel brigade has certainly added more colour to the town over the years. The camel fair is usually held for five days in the month of Karthik according to Hindu Calendar which usually falls in October/November. The major celebrations are usually held on the full moon day, the day on which Lord Brahma is said to have sprung up on the Pushkar Lake. The festival will be celebrated from November. Though you really can’t steal the thunder from the camels, you might find that the festival is not just about selling the best looking camels and horses but
it is more about experiencing the ethnic traditions of the charming town. As you go around the camel grounds where these animals are all decked up smartly so as to appease the best buyers, you can’t help but be a part of the celebrations. With Ferris Wheels, bridal contests and mustache-twirling, tug-of-war, kabaddi, turban-tying, and matka phod, (pot busting) competitions, the festival is less about livestock and more about having fun and entertainment. The moment you allow yourself to be carried away by the stalls and the fun stuff to do, you realise why Pushkar is not just about camels. The fair draws in around a whopping 50,000 camels and about 20,000 people and it’s also a market for the farmers rearing camels to make good money. Most of the livestock transactions are completed in the days leading up to the festival and the actual festival begins with the quirky competitions that steal the show. The camels are mostly used to take visitors for a ride and the camel race.
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Unique Festivals
H Bonfire Night
celebrations Every street in England will have a huge bonfire to celebrate Guy Fawkes Day on November 5. An effigy of Guy Fawkes is burned in the bonfire followed by fireworks
Guy Fawkes Day
When: November 5 Where: England
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uge crowds are chanting slogans, singing and dancing with placards and banners in their hands as a huge bonfire is lit. Novices to this event would be surprised and could even confuse it to be a protest of sorts. But those familiar with the British history would know that when you enter any English street on November 5, you would be right in the midst of Guy Fawkes Day celebrations. Guy Fawkes Day or Bonfire Night has today become a night of revelry and merriment. The festival is associated with the infamous gunpowder plot of 1605 where Guy Fawkes and other conspirators placed explosives in the House of Lords to kill King James I, but the plot was foiled and Fawkes was arrested. It was a moment of joy as their king survived and king’s loyalists began to celebrate the day. The festival is famous with the slogan of ‘burn the Guy’ and the burning of the effigy of Guy Fawkes in a bonfire while people around it sing traditional songs. It is said that initially, celebrations of the
gunpowder plot just revolved around lighting bonfires. But later, people began placing effigies in bonfires and fireworks were also added to the celebrations. Effigies of Guy Fawkes and sometimes those of the Pope graced the pyres and today, the effigy of a contemporary politician has been known to be tossed into the pyre. Preparations for the bonfire celebrations include making a dummy of Guy Fawkes called ‘the Guy’; youngsters also walk along the streets and ask passersby ‘a penny for the Guy’. The money is used to purchase fireworks. In the night, ‘the Guy’ is placed in the bonfire after which a spectacular fireworks display fills the sky. The extent of the celebration and the size of the bonfire vary from region to region. The most famous celebration takes place in Lewes, South of England, where the astounding size of the bonfire and the massive fireworks display are quite attractive in itself. Although the traditions of the festival still remain intact, plenty of environmentalists have protested the fire related injuries and the consequent air pollution.
E Pirates of the Caribbean
come alive in Cayman A unique celebration, the Pirates Week will be held from November 7 to 17 in the Cayman Islands. You can come across fictional characters like Captain Jack Sparrow and others during the festival on the island
Pirates Week
When: November 7 -17 Where: Cayman Islands
ver fancied a meeting with Captain Jack Sparrow in person or the suave Long John Silver and a fight with Captain Hook just to tell him that no one messes with Peter Pan? If you think these famous pirates just stick to their book or movie versions, think again, because in November you may find yourself shell shocked as all these characters sashay around on the Cayman Islands. The Pirates Week is the time to be in George Town, Cayman Islands. While the place remains relatively quiet and serene the rest of the year, it transforms into a party hub and not the type you see in Vegas but the kind where you can find even the stiff and serious adults prance about like five year olds in make believe costumes and talk to each other in pirate lingo! The festival will be celebrated for 10 days from November 7. Pirates Week was originally intended to be an in house celebration to promote tourism in the Cayman Islands and
was officially flagged off in 1977 by Jim Bodden, then Minister of Tourism in the Island nation. Today, it has grown into quite a popular event with tourism being boosted in the country, especially in November. The eleven fun filled days offer music, street dances, games for children and adults alike, a glittering parade and plenty of sporting activities. Tourists visiting the Island during Pirates Week would be confused because there is literally plenty for them to explore. The festival begins with a traditional steel pan competition and a party night rounded off by an eye-popping fireworks display. Next day, the real feel of a pirates week kicks in when two vessels full of ‘pirates’ land at the George Town Harbour and capture the ‘Governor’ while the citizens watch the mock event reminiscent of ancient times. The one of a kind ‘Caribbean invasion’ is enacted in novel ways every year and is a popular attraction of the Pirates Week.
Floral Fantasy Poppy field
A visual treat
B
Lakshmi Narayanan
looming red poppies resembling an enormous ruby carpet are sure to captivate your eyes whether you are floral enthusiast or not. So don’t miss the chance to visit Sussex in England where this flowery terra firma will take you to a world of wonder, beauty and fragrance. Sussex, the highland, is where the largest poppy fields of the country are located and they are the best photographic sceneries in the UK. The spectacular view of red poppies provides a great visual treat for landscape photographers. Evening is the best time for a visit as the red poppies shine like anything in the golden yellow sunlight just before sunset. Though poppies are synonymous with rolling summer countryside, it attracts tourists during winters too. At Sussex, one can also catch yellow poppies but the red poppies steal the thunder. West and East Sussex are the best summer destinations for poppies while South Downs in Newhaven attract tourists during winter.
How to reach there Sussex is 69.47 km away from London which has four major airports. Regular train and bus services from the city take you to Sussex within 50 minutes.
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November 2013
not to be missed
Culinary Tales Dilli Haat
t t r a a &A
d H o o i F l f l O i
D
A visit to the open food plaza at Dilli Haat will increase your appetite for even unknown cuisines of India. The stalls in the Haat are second to none in terms of taste, hygiene and ambience and you have a wide choice of cuisines from various parts of the country Jenny Thingshung
Pork with bamboo shoot
Kashmiri rista
W
hat could be the perfect way to celebrate the diversity of Indian culture than a trip to Dilli Haat, a one of its kind place which serves cuisines from all over India under one roof? Riots of colours and smells that envelope your senses are things you can’t afford to miss in this open food plaza. It is the Capital’s perfect one stop shop for original tribal artifacts and food from various parts of India. When I first came here, I was astounded by the numerous food joints situated adjacent to each
other. After scouting for the best eat, I found the stall that is worth coming back to. The Naga stall run by a young Naga woman entrepreneur impressed me the most in the place. The stall serves authentic and fusion Naga cuisines. Pork ribs with hot Raja Mircha chutney strikes well. You are served the most amazing pork curry with bamboo shoot and pork cooked with Akhuni (fermented soya). While the almost lethal chutney drives your appetite wild, the simple boiled vegetables neutralise the spicy effect. Naga ‘thali’ is simple and more on the bland side; the spread has rice, chutney,
Thali
boiled vegetables and pork curry. The stall also serves wonderful momos and noodles and a chilled fruit beer to down with. During my last visit to the Haat, Delhi’s monsoon forced me to take shelter at Wazwan stall. While going through their menu, authentic Kashmiri dishes grabbed my attention. Wazwan offers gushtaba (mutton cooked in curd), rista (meat balls made in red chilli gravy), rogan josh (red lamb) and mutton kababs and biryani. For vegetarians, hak saag and Jammu Rajma are highly recommended. A heavy rain is the perfect time to drink Safron kahwa, a Kashmiri herbal drink made with saffron and dry. Surprisingly, the Hyderabadi stall serves wonderful coffee that I discovered when I took shelter from the rain. There’s no dearth of choices in this oasis of food, including vegetarian, non-vegetarian, sweets, snacks and even the more obscure Indian fares like Meghalaya cuisine. And the Haat is not just about food. It’s about exquisite Indian arts too.
Momos
Pork rib naga
Kashmiri Gushtaba
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EXploring Flavors Barleyz
Brewing the way into beer lovers’
hearts
Photos: Jose Jacob
I
Tony William
ndia’s Silicon Valley Bangalore enjoys being the pub city of the country. Pubs introduced micro-breweries to the people of Bangalore. Today, Bangalore has got nearly seven pubs with a variety of their own craft beers. The Travel and Flavors team tracks Barleyz, one of the best brew pubs, located at 100 Ft Road, Koramangala. Barleyz is not just a brew pub. Spread over 30,000 sq ft on two floors, Barleyz consists of a fine restaurant, a barbeque garden restaurant, a sky lounge, café and a kids’ room apart from the brew house on the rooftop. “We have created this whole concept around brewery,” says Ashish Jauhri, one of the partners of Barleyz. “To harness the full potential of an urban centric population and the weather of Bangalore, we have come up with this large rooftop pub,” he says. Barleyz is the only one micro-brewery in Bangalore which has a brew house in the open and tanks in a controlled environment. The rooftop restaurant is the major attraction at Barleyz. The sky lounge which
has 15,000 sq ft with a fountain and the lights creates a perfect mood to enjoy crafted beers like German Wheat, Irish Stout and American Blonde. Want to try Indian barbeque setting on the table and the beer? Well, check out the rooftop restaurant which offers delights like wood fired pizzas. The craft beers available at Barleyz include Barleyz Special, Porter, Ale, Wiet and Blonde. The first floor of Barleyz consists of the pub, café, fine dining restaurant and the kids’ room. The café is the perfect hangout for couples and college students who wish for a quiet time as they sip their coffee. Experimentation makes the café at Barleyz unique. “Coffee and alcohol make wonderful delights. So we are experimenting a lot in that segment. The desserts are another area and not to mention the cakes,” says Ashish.
Move on to the restaurant ‘I Chin’. “It’s like the IndoChinese,” says Ashish. “We offer special packages which include unlimited food and beverages for our customers and we have a lot of corporate customers,” he adds. Imagine sitting in the pub and zipping the award winning craft beer Indian Jaggery Ale which recently won the silver medal at the Dublin Craft Beer Cup. “The silver medal is a rare achievement in the growing craft beer industry in India. We don’t filter or add preservatives in the beer because we want it to be as natural as possible. This makes us different from other competitors. It is special and expensive but we believe the results are worthwhile,” says Louis, the master brewer from Germany. Barleyz is doing quite a lot of experimentation with beer like the introduction of jaggery as an element where traditional brewers
use caramel sugar. Barleyz is trying different elements just to ensure that beer lovers get what they want. Ashish says that the results with jaggery were quite amazing creating a lot of loyal fanfare for it. Another experimentation they did was with herbal plant ‘tulsi’, as an ingredient. Barleyz which has established itself as a brand is all set for growth in the coming years. It is working on an outlet in Pune. “Hopefully in the next few years, you will see Barleyz in all major cities in India,” says Ashish about the future prospects of the group. TBH Breweries Private Limited owners Ashish Jauhri, Naveen Bharadwaj and Capt Ravindra Singh run Barleyz. They came from three different industries. While Ashish is an architect who lived in Europe and Singapore, Naveen Bharadwaj is a banker and Capt Ravindra Singh an ex-Merchant Navy official.
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EXploring Flavors Barleyz
The interiors of Barleyz
Beer-making Beer is basically fermented sugar, says Louis, master brewer at Barleyz. Germinated grain is dried so as to have the maximum sugar capacity and later boiled in 600 C or 700 C for an hour to get wort, the unfermented beer which is basically a sweet juice. Hops are added to wort later. Before transforming wort to the fermentation tank to cool down, hops are removed. Yeast is added to this and it is this yeast which gives sweet and flavor to alcohol. The fermentation depends on the beer you want to make. Stronger beers take longer time to ferment. To improve the quality of beer, it is moved into conditioning tank where the maturation phase takes place. Ageing process will ensure the taste and the secondary fermentation soaks the beer with carbon dioxide. Barleyz don’t use chemicals for filtering process or add any preservatives making it natural as possible.�
Where Barleyz, 2/3, 3rd floor, 80 Ft Road, Opp. Oasis Mall, Koramangala, Bengaluru-34
Contact for booking 080 67569999 or check www.barleyz.com
Must try The craft beer Indian Jaggery Ale
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Heritage cities London
A city that keeps
its culture, tradition aloft
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November 2013
London seems to have changed a little with the migration of different ethnic groups to the city, but the essence of England still remains intact evoking your respect and admiration
L
ondon was calling for quite long but somehow I couldn’t make it. I was confused and wondered where to go first and where to start from. I wasn’t surprised on learning that London was one of the busiest cities in the world, nor at the fact that I wouldn’t find moving about the city easy. I didn’t know much about the city until I was introduced to Harry Potter and I certainly cannot expect to see anything from Rowling’s fascinating fictional world at King’s Cross Station or the Underground. The sophistication and the meticulousness associated with the British culture could be seen everywhere, but something seemed to have changed subtly, I wondered if it was the presence of various ethnic groups from across the world that had brought their culture with them. Indeed, London is no longer just about the Cockney culture nor about catching that game of cricket on a crisp Sunday afternoon or digging into Twinning’s English Breakfast tea. Not anymore. I wondered for a moment as I gazed at Thames flowing serenely if that disappointed me a tad. Refreshed and recharged for the first leg of my London travel, I weighed my options and decided to start with the UK’s most
Savithri S Iyer famous church complex, the Westminster Abbey.
Westminster Abbey
I had been looking forward to travelling on the famed London Double Decker bus and I found that it was certainly a unique experience. One would wonder what I was doing in a church in London when I could be spending time doing something more fun. But the geek in me wouldn’t be happy unless she got to the most historic spot in all of England. This was the place where 17 members of the royal family tied the knot starting from King Henry I to the more recent one of Prince William and Kate Middleton. Of course, the Abbey was more than just a perfect place to say ‘I do’. The country’s history is etched on the cold stone slabs for all to see. The greatest men and women of England have been buried here. This is also the spot for the coronation of almost all the English monarchs right from William the Conqueror. The building is certainly a sight to behold with its blend of various architectural styles and is often considered to be one of the best examples of Early English Gothic in existence. Built in the 11th century by King Edward the Confessor, the building has seen a lot of renovations in its long history. Apart from the royal graves, the literary enthusiast in me was thrilled on
catching the graves of the great English poets in the famed Poets’ Corner. The tombstones include the likes of Chaucer, Hardy, Tennyson, Shakespeare and Jane Austen. You can also catch Sir Isaac Newton in another part of this famed burial ground. The Chapter House, the crypt like Pyx Chamber and the College Garden are sights you can’t miss so is the Abbey Museum which houses the death masks of the long list of English royalty. I moved on to the next location, Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum, having revelled in the Abbey to my heart’s content.
Madame Tussaud’s
Stepping into Madame Tussaud’s, I had to be sure that I was talking to an actual human being and not a wax counterpart of a security guard. The wax figures here are not the cheap imitations seen at local exhibitions,
Heritage cities London
Westminster Abbey, London, England but the real deal. This was one spot where I was sure I’d have a headache trying to figure out if the celebrities I was seeing were real or not. It’s a place where you would find your eyes popping out of the sockets on seeing Kate Winslet only to find that it is in fact a wax model or perhaps almost scream on seeing Robert Pattinson just like I did. The famed museum is the place where you can find some of the all time legends like the Beatles, Hitler, and even some truly creepy villains from fiction. As I moved around, I came face to face with Marie Grosholtz, better known as Madame Tussaud, her wax version. As I walked out of the Museum, I wondered if the little old lady had ever guessed how famous her museum would turn out to be one day. From Madame Tussaud’s, I moved on to my next destination, the sight of Shakespeare’s greatest plays, the Globe Theatre.
Globe Theatre
Popularly known as Shakespeare’s Globe, this historic theatre is a reconstruction of the original Globe Theatre, an Elizabethan playhouse located in Southwark on the southern banks of the Thames. The original Globe Theatre was built in 1599 after
Tourists at Buckingham Palace
Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum
The famed Coliseum Theatre which it was demolished and rebuilt a number of times until 1997 when thespian Sam Wanamaker built the present Globe Theatre at the original site. Walking around the halls of the theatre where William Shakespeare staged his greatest works such as Macbeth and Hamlet, I felt like I had achieved one of the greatest dreams in my life. Every single aspect of the theatre has been reconstructed as a tribute to the great playwright. Plays are staged from April to October during which time the tours are shifted to the Rose Theatre nearby. The stages where the plays are performed are truly reminiscent of the Elizabethan era where the audiences get a unique experience of the theatre. Grinning from ear to ear on having achieved my life’s ambition of setting foot into the Globe Theatre, I shifted gear to the icing on the cake, the Buckingham Palace. Of course, my London tour would be nothing without passing by Big Ben, a true crowning glory. But then, I recalled that I was going to be visiting the official residence of the Queen.
Buckingham Palace
I had to remember to close my mouth as I stepped into the
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Heritage cities London
Whitehall street with Big Ben in the background
DON’T MISS OUT Museums, art galleries and palaces • National Gallery • Natural History Museum • British Museum • Tate Modern • Science Museum • National Maritime Museum • Hampton Court Palace • Tower of London • Windsor Castle
ALSO TRY • •
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A photo opportunity in front of the Big Ben Catch the three famed London icons together- the Double Decker Bus, the Red Telephone Booth and the Big Ben November 2013
compound of the Buckingham Palace.It certainly was awe inspiring and regal. The 19 lavishly decorated state rooms hung with the works of Rembrandt, Canaletto and Vermeer is a two-hour tour covering a small portion of the palace. The palace became an official monarchical residence after the ascendance of Queen Victoria to the throne in 1837. The state room which we were guided through consists of the large Music Room which has a large bow as its dominant feature. This room is flanked by the Blue and White Drawing Rooms. We were then led to the Throne Room through the Picture Gallery. Following the Throne Room, we were taken to the Green Drawing Room, a sort of anteroom to the Throne Room. The State Room we were told was used only for ceremonial and official purposes but was open to the public. The Queen’s Gallery, which was designed by John Nash and initially intended to be a conservatory, showcases some of the palace’s priceless treasures through temporary exhibitions. I could indulge in my Princess fantasies as I moved to the Royal Mew where the spectacular state coaches and the stables with the Royal horses can be seen. We were shown the 1902 State Landau which the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge used for their wedding in 2011. London had not disappointed me, I realised as I made my way back to the hotel. I did see plenty of things to remind me of home but I understood that the essence of England was really not lost. It was there in the little tavern where I stopped for a drink and in the crisp precision of the officials at Buckingham and Westminster Abbey. London was off the grid but not off my mind.
Tuck In To • • • •
Fish and Chips- true English treat of freshly caught fish and crispy potato fries A swig of Ginger Ale at one of the local pubs Shepherd’s Pie- a dish made of meat and mashed potatoes Bangers and Mash- a dish combining sausages and mashed potatoes with gravy
Getting There • • •
The Heathrow Airport is one of the largest and busiest airports in Britain and connects the major cities in the world. Once there, you can get around by the London Underground, one of largest rail networks in the city The London Metro connects you to the major tourist destinations of the city.
Travel Kit Olympus Binoculars
Ideal
Binoculars Bobins V Abraham
If you are a fan of adventure sports or rugged outdoor activities, you will be aware of the width of scenery you miss out in the wild. A faithful pair of binoculars could be the ideal tool to pack when you go on a holiday trip
T
he Olympus 8 x 25 WP I is a smart pair of binoculars that addresses your need while fitting in perfectly when you want to travel light. This compact set of binoculars is ideal to use in outdoor locations that have adverse weather conditions as it has a rugged design that suits multiple occasions. It features a roof prism, which contributes to the light weight and compact design. The prism is made of ground BaK-4 glass, which reduces refraction for a more accurate image. The object is magnified to 8x, taking you closer to the action.
This sleek and rugged pair of binoculars has a compact body that is easy to stow away in your hand luggage. It has individual dioptric controls for each eye piece, and a focus knob in the middle. This knob features a large design and is easy to access even when the binoculars are in use. The eyecups can be twisted to increase the comfort of using the binoculars. The Olympus 8 x 25 WP I weighs 340 gm and measures 115 x 111 x 43.5 mm, making it easy to hold for a longer time at a full-day event like a cricket match. It is your ideal companion in any climate and it also gives you clarity of image while viewing a subject shrouded in fog.
KEY FEATURES • • • •
8 x Magnification Roof-prism 5.5° Actual Field of View 3 m Closest Focusing Distance • 18 mm Eye Relief • 25 mm Objective Lens Diametre • Full Multi Coating
Trippin With Shweta Honduras
Jewel amongst
ruins 76 travel & flavors
November 2013
Shweta Ganesh Kumar
I
tumble out of bed and wince as my feet touch the unusually cold floor. Stumbling towards the wood panelled door in the room, I gently push it open. A puff of fresh mountain breeze rushes in as I feast on the viewswollen clouds grazing on the green mountaintops of this hillside town in Copan, Honduras. My husband, one and half year old daughter and I have driven through the night from El Salvador where we are based, to visit Copan. This view has already made the almost five-hour ride worthwhile. Much as it is tempting to order in a cup of hot green tea and lie back in the hammock temptingly dangling in the veranda of our hotel room, we know we have much more to do and see. The small little township of Copan is known for its Mayan ruins dating between the 5th and 9th centuries AD. It was classified as a UN World Heritage Site for the ancient architectural wonders it houses on its grounds. Armed with our camera, bottles of water and snacks, we set forth for the ruins, the core part of which is spread across 24 square kilometres. Our hotel’s large wrought-iron portals open directly onto the cobbled streets. We pick our way tenderly through the uneven stones paving the way up and down the steep slopes
that make up the region. Strangers and foreigners are very welcome here. The locals wave and wish us in Spanish as we pass them on the slopes. As we linger by a painted wall, one of many in the area, a vehicle familiar to all Indians and most Asians, trundles to a halt next to us. It is but the humble Bajaj autorickshaw, exported to Central America all the way from India. Painted a bright red, the driver of this ‘Moto-Taxi’ as it is called here, asks us if we want to head to the archaeological park. Before we know it, we are bumping away on the roads to the ruins. We walk on a muchtrodden path, sheltered from the bright sun by generous trees. Past a ticket-stile, we trudge on following light crowds of tourists – some families and college students on educational tours. Suddenly, a chorus of squawks and a burst of colour in the sky have everyone gasping in awe. A flock of macaws have taken to the skies. These vibrantly coloured birds were sacred to the ancient Mayans. The scarlet macaws represented daylight and the rising sun. It comes as no surprise to see the image of these birds crop up in sculptures across the Mayan ruins in Mesoamerica. They were an integral part of the indigenous form of
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Trippin With Shweta Honduras
A Mayan Stela at the ruins of Copan
Scarlet Macaw
78 travel & flavors
November 2013
life here. However, due to largescale deforestation and the illegal pet trade, these gorgeous birds are now an endangered species. We have gotten the chance to see these birds today, thanks to the hard work done by Honduran ecoactivists and conservationists from Macaw Mountain, the bird-park and nature reserve in the region. The trail we are on abruptly opens out into a grass clearing, named the Central Plaza and nicknamed the Stela Garden. Mayan Stelae is the name given to monuments fashioned by the Mayans. They are mostly tall, sculpted stone shafts and are often found in tandem with low, circular stones said to be altars. Most of these structures were sculpted during the classic period of the Mayans. The ruins of Copan have some of the best-preserved stellae in the world– noteworthy for their exquisite detailing and threedimensional appearance. As my husband and daughter grab a quick snack on the lush-green lawns, I head to the stellae for a closer look, to appreciate just how skilled these
artisans of yore were. The site was declared a world heritage site – the hieroglyphic stairway. This massive structure, about three-storey tall, was completed in 755 C.E. Every block is carved with hieroglyphic inscriptions, 2,200 glyphs in all. This masterpiece carved in stone narrates the history of Copan’s Mayan rulers. My eyes wander up this marvel, created hundreds of years ago, with the most rudimentary of tools. How can mankind claim to have progressed when today, even with the most advanced of machinery, all we can produce is a pale facsimile of past wonders? Huffing and puffing, we clamber on crumbling steps of olden rocks and mud. Gnarled trees have taken root on mounds that possibly cover a host of other structures. At the top, we survey all that the Mayan kings would have - the stelae, the acropolis, the step pyramids, the ball court, the plaza and the foundations of palaces long lost. Humbled, we gingerly make our way down, wondering just how impressive it would
Painted walls
Mayan Stelae is the name given to monuments fashioned by the Mayans. They are mostly tall, sculpted stone shafts and are often found in tandem with low, circular stones said to be altars. Most of these structures were made during the classic period of the Mayans
Visitors at Central Plaza
have been in its heyday. A thought that has undoubtedly struck many an archaeologist and layman alike, which is probably why the Sculpture Museum on the grounds seems to have been built to address this very notion. We walk through its doors, the stylized jaws of a serpent, into a 50-metre long tunnel, symbolising the body of the serpent, the Mayans used to communicate with their dead ancestors. We step into the light at the end of the dark channel to an open courtyard, flush with natural light in the presence of a vibrant full-scale and full-colour replica of ‘Rosalila’– one of the best preserved temples found underground, on the site of the ruins. Covered with anthropomorphic imagery of crocodiles, mountains and skeletons, it is now easy to imagine how stunning the Mayan empire had been. Around the Rosalila replica are more than 3,000 pieces of sculptures, yet another window into the soul of the classic Mayan kingdom that lived and breathed here. Tales etched in stone that live on, as testimony to man’s innate need, to create and endure.
Glyph on a wall
Travel Info There are four major airports that connect the major cities and towns to Honduras Toncontin Airport in Tegucigalpa Ramon Villeda Morales Airport (also referred to as La Mesa) in San Pedro Sula Goloson Airport in La Ceiba Juan Manuel Galvez International Airport in Roatan Check out www.honduras.com for more details
Currency Exchange Currency referred to as the “Lempira” (HNL) 1 Honduran Lempira equals to 2.98 INR
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Key’s Destinations Okinawa
A paradise where time stands still Karnika E Yashwant
“T
he perfect blossom is a rare thing. You could spend your life looking for one, and it would not be a wasted life” goes a famous quote from The Last Samurai. I wished to
learn more about Japanese culture first hand, as well as the kind of scenic beauty propagating such soul stirring emotions. Browsing for a place to start my identity quest, I choose Okinawa- Japan’s southernmost prefecture is a favourite vacation spot among Japanese and international tourists alike
because of its tropical weather that rarely falls below 65 degrees, even during summer. The Okinawa district is a chain of dozens of small islands that stretch all the way to Taiwan, and is traditionally divided into three island groups: Okinawa, Mikayo and Yaeyama. Being a child at heart, I delighted in Shuri
Castle—one of Okinawa’s main attractions. Time has not been kind to this magnificent building. The castle had been burned to the ground four times throughout its existence. The only part of the original building remaining is the foundation below. To protect the history, the new castle was built 15
The Okinawa district is a chain of dozens of small islands that stretch all the way to Taiwan, and is traditionally divided into three island groups: Okinawa, Mikayo and Yaeyama centimetres above the ruins. The castle is situated on a hill, 130m above sea level at its highest point, with the main palace hall, Seiden, facing the west. The compound includes four gates in the outer wall, and eight gates in the inner complex. A pair of stelae which stands at the Keiseimon are said to have been erected in 1544, and were intended
to serve as spiritual or symbolic protection against wak么. Dragons are also my preoccupation and surprisingly, I found the most beautiful dragons strategically placed making the castle look incredibly majestic. One can see dragon statues on the top of the castle. Shuri Castle is painted red and has two Shisa on the front doors to protect the castle. In front
of the Shisa, one can behold two pillars with adorning golden dragons. The Shisa, a cross between a lion and a dog came to Okinawa from China and they are usually seen in pairs. The Shisa are placed in front of houses or buildings to keep evil spirits out and protect the inhabitants. One pays 楼 800 to go inside and tour the castle. Walking through the
castle is like going back to primeval times when dragons and dragon riders still inhabited the earth. In respect to Japanese culture, we removed our shoes and carried them around while roaming all three floors of the castle. As a tourist, I would also like to bring to attention the wonderful gardens around the castle. They are definitely worth a look! I walked to a house in
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Key’s Destinations Okinawa
A tourist on the beach
A tourist enjoying sunlight at Okinawa
the middle of a pond. Because of its proximity to Taiwan, Okinawa is culturally distinctive from the rest of Japan, and tourists come to experience its unique culture, art and food. The Yaeyama Islands are a favourite. The Iriomote Islands are covered by dense jungles and mangrove forests, making them one of the most naturally beautiful locations in Japan. Food is of no issue in Japan. You can have the freshest find – vegetables, fishes, mushrooms - cooked simply in earthen vessels right before your eyes – ladled steaming hot into your waiting bowl. However, don’t break your back sitting crosslegged on a cushion in front of a very low table, half the standard height. There are breathtaking waterfalls, winding and calm rivers that can be canoed along, and lots of opportunities for snorkeling and diving along the coast. Ishigaki Island is home to a traditional Ryuku village that has been untouched by modern times. Its traditional, red roof, one story houses have been in use since the village was founded. Thus, the heart is filled with memories as well as the stomach – gently, not intrudingly. As I look back on what have transpired of my trip to this veritable paradise in Japan – Okinawa – I am astounded to confirm that, as Nathan Algren, found in his Japan trip in the movie: “There is some comfort in the emptiness of the sea, no past, nor future.” The beauty of our emotions stretches far and beyond us, and the discovery is trip after trip. Come with me to Okinawa during one of my trips back, my friends!
Travel Info Okinawa can be reached by flights or ferries from Tokyo. Regular flights from two airports-Haneda and Narita take you to Naha airport within 2.5 hours. Due to poor public transportation, a rental car is the recommended means of getting around Okinawa Honto. Nearly all major airlines and airports offer flights to Tokyo
Currency Exchange Manzamo Cliff at Okinawa
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1 Yen = 1.61 INR
Exploring the past Badami
A treasure trove of temple
architecture
T
Photos & Text: Srikumar M Menon he sandstone was rough, with plenty of holds and very easy to climb despite the steep angle. The only hindrances were the profusion of
thorny plants that had flourished after a short burst of rain that blesses this otherwise dry and dusty corner of North Karnataka. I was climbing near the southern extent of the sandstone cliffs that form a backdrop to one of the most scenic locations in the development of temple architecture in South India – Badami. The object of my quest was a rock shelter supposed to be somewhere among the boulders here, with paintings on rock left behind by our distant huntergatherer ancestors more than 12,000 years ago. Trouble was – looking
for a rock art panel in a rock shelter among the sandstone boulders and cliffs in Badami could give the proverbial hunt for a needle in a haystack a run for its money! The sandstone massif had fractured and weathered into impossible shapes– huge boulders that had broken off from the main rocky ridge, great cliffs and narrow, deep ravines of great beauty and prehistoric man could have favoured any of these several locations. With the distinctive shape of a nearby large boulder as a guide, it was just a matter of few minutes to locate the rock paintings. And they were very impressive. On a large concave rock face, Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) man had painted a hunting scene.Stylised human figures surrounded by animals, mostly prey are depicted in dancing poses, in the centre of the panel. Flocks of wild boars with their bristling hides seemed destined to fall prey to the confident-looking hunters with their spears and daggers In 500 AD, Badami, known as Vatapi, was the seat of a vast empire that covered most of the Deccan Plateau in its heyday. Today, Badami town seems to have drifted far from the glorious days of yore with a population in excess of 25,000 living in what could pass of as any typical small town in the dry dusty Deccan Plateau. But scattered even amongst the haphazardly evolved settlements are glimpses of the glorious heritage with exquisite ancient temples popping up amongst the narrow streets and congested residential quarters. First time visitors to the region are advised to stay at Badami in any of the hotels and start their tour with the usual tourist’s itinerary which consists of the cave temples near the South Fort followed by a visit to the Site Museum of the
Archaeological Survey of India and the North Fort. Towards evening, a walk by the Agastya Teertha is highly recommended. The west-facing Bhootnath Temple, tastefully sited on the eastern edge of the tank, catches the rays of the setting Sun which appear to set the sandstone on fire. This spectacle at dusk is one of the most rewarding visual treats of the place. In the monsoon season, a small and short-lived, but pretty waterfall from a spot on the ridge behind the temple adds to the lovely backdrop of the already incredible scene. My visit was to savour some of the lesser known monuments and places around, and bypassed the known attractions of the place totally. As an architect interested in the origins of monumental architecture in this region, I was trying to study whether there is any relationship between prehistoric monuments and later architecture here. The rock paintings of Ranganatha Gudda and other nearby sites, as well as the discovery of prehistoric tools in the region indicate that human occupation of this region dates well back to the Stone Age. Beyond the northern edge of Badami town, a track heads eastward into the hills and a mesmerising 3 km walk atop the plateau among crazily shaped outcrops of sandstone leads one to a valley where there is a remarkable rock shelter in the form of a large natural sandstone bridge. Great gaping holes in the roof of this shelter are believed to be the result of lightning ages ago and give the shelter its local name–Sidilephadi (Kannada for lightning cave). Strange looking paintings in white and ochre scattered along the walls of the shelter are believed to have been executed by Palaeolithic November 2013 travel & flavors
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Exploring the past Badami
A view of Badami from the cliffs behind Bhootnath
and Mesolithic Man whose presence in the distant past here are indicated by the stone tools discovered nearby and now exhibited at the Badami Museum. Another interesting walk over the sandstone plateau is towards the Mahakoota group of temples that reward you magnificent early Chalukyan temples around a spring-fed tank shaded by a grove of trees. The Mahakooteshwara Temple is the most important in the group but all these temples are remarkable for their elegant form and the exquisite sculptures that adorn them. On the way back from Mahakoota by the road to Badami via Banashankari, is a small diversion that leads to Naganatha Temple tucked away in a fold of the sandstone massif. It is a peaceful place, forested, housing an excellent specimen of early Chalukyan temple architecture, frequented mostly by langurs and itinerant goatherds. The shikhara of the temple has partly fallen; despite this the grandeur of the temple is still very much evident. The ceiling depicting Brahma riding a swan and a seated Vishnu bear testimony to the excellent sculpting skills of the builders of this monument. The beautiful sculpture of Lajja-Gauri exhibited at the Badami Museum was found in this temple. If you are the kind who likes scrambling up cliff faces, the scramble up to
Arali Teertha is just for you. The plateau leading to Arali Teertha is a good vantage point to click stunning images of Badami from the east. Strewn about on the flat top of the plateau are again several interesting windsculpted rock forms, some of them with wide cavernous spaces below. Wandering among these other-worldly shapes, I stumbled upon two shelters with signs of worship that haven’t been reported earlier. One is a paduka or depiction of holy feet of some bygone saints on the floor of a rock shelter. A seated Jaina figure sculpted on the wall and an old Kannada inscription tell us that it is in memory of Vardhamanadeva who attained salvation here. Another rock shelter has a pitha which once contained an idol, which is indicated only by a rough patch where it broke off long ago. One wonders how many such forgotten remnants lay among these endless sandstone forms that dot the plateau. Undoubtedly, this site with its dramatic setting must have been of importance to prehistoric man, too, and our ancestors would have worshipped unknown Gods here thousands of years ago. As yet another Badami visit drew to a close, I couldn’t help feeling that this was just the beginning of my understanding of this spectacular locale with a multitude of layers of history.
Getting There Both bus and rail networks connect Badami with major towns in the country. Regular bus services availabale from Gadag to Badami. The Malegitti Sivalaya
Bengaluru international airport connects the town to all major cities around the world.
On a large concave rock face, Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) man had painted a hunting scene. Stylised human figures surrounded by animals, mostly prey are depicted in dancing poses in the centre of the panel Agastya Teertha
North east India A Driving Experience
Incredibly beautiful Arunachal Pradesh
T
he route from Tezpur to the border of Arunachal Pradesh was bounded on both sides by tea plantations, including the Monabarie Tea Estate, which is reputed to be the largest in Asia. The tea produced in this part of the country is considered to be among the best one can have. En route to the Arunachal Pradesh border is Gohpur, which played a significant role in the history of the freedom struggle and the development of the tea plantations. Just opposite the Inspection Bungalow is a small pond across which was a neat little bungalow, where the SDPO resided. On the banks, stood a memorial to Kanakalata Boruah and Mukanda Kakati who were shot dead by the British when they attempted to raise a freedom flag on top of the police station. In the old days, the locals used to brew tea from leaves harvested from the jungles, but in the 1820s, through the efforts of tea planter Robert Bruce and Dewan Maniram Dutta Barua, a local nobleman, tea plantations began to come up in the NE. The locals did not support the development of tea plantations because it interfered with their system of shifting cultivation and plantation labour had to be ‘imported’ from Chota Nagpur, Orissa and Bihar. Thus were born the ‘tea tribes’ of Assam. These people have, over the years, almost completely integrated with the locals. Itanagar is barely 30 km from Gohpur via the border village of Halongi. The route is also shorter by an hour than the one through Bander Dewa. At the border, I approached the policeman on duty there to get the ILP stamped. As I drove through the border post, I could sense the hills of Arunachal beckoning me.
Suresh Joseph Arunachal Pradesh, in Sanskrit means the ‘Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains’, is the easternmost of the Indian states. With a population of 15 lakh and an area of 83,743 sq km, it has the lowest density of population in the country. It is home to more than 25 tribes of which the most common are the Nyishi, the Adi, the Aptapi and the Wanchoo. Although there are at least 30 and possibly as many as 50 distinct languages and innumerable dialects and sub-dialects, the main languages spoken are Hindi, Assamese and English. The Buddha Vihar and the Centre for Buddhist Studies for which the 14th Dalai Lama had laid the foundation stones and consecrated them was a short drive from the city centre. The setting of the Gompa and the Chorten was truly scenic, their elevation affording wonderful views of the surrounding hills and the valley. Unfortunately, the museum was closed– it is open only from Sunday to Thursday. The Ita-fort , after which the city is named, dates back to the 15th century and is located in the centre of the city. The imposing structure, which I was told is the only fort in Arunachal Pradesh, used more than eight million bricks and about 45,000 man days in its construction and stands as a sentinel to the city. A walk through the busy Ganga market revealed that most of the shops and other commercial establishments were controlled by ‘outsiders’. I walked to the Kerala Bhawan, a restaurant owned by Biju, a bachelor from Cherthala, Kerala. He had been operating the restaurant in Itanagar for the past two years, prior to which he had been doing the same in Cherthala. He offered me a cup of coffee and while sipping it I got a synopsis of life in November 2013 travel & flavors
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North east India A Driving Experience
The locals did not support the development of tea plantations because it interfered with their system of shifting cultivation and plantation labour had to be ‘imported’ from Chota Nagpur, Orissa and Bihar in Itanagar. To illustrate the local ‘might is right’ attitude, he narrated an incident that had happened in the market area that very afternoon. An elderly man who was crossing the road had been knocked down by a youngster, who also lost control and fell off his bike. The youngster got up and instead of helping the old man to the hospital, almost kicked him. There was neither any reaction from the crowd watching the tamasha nor a response from the policeman on duty. That corroborated the incidents narrated by the Most Rev Fr John, the Bishop of Itanagar, who had told me that a priest had to pay Rs 30,000 as compensation to a local who had rammed the priest’s car from the rear; the penalty was for being where he should not have been - on the road! A Keralite had to cough up Rs 5,000 for repairs to the headlights of the car belonging to a local who had lost control and banged into the rear of his car. His mistake? Parking on the side of the road! If you happen to be responsible for sending the soul of a goat prematurely to the Maker instead of to the butcher, you could wind up compensating the owner of the unfortunate victim a few tens of thousands, depending on the age of the victim - the younger the goat, the higher the compensation. The absence of land records was another fertile area for ‘dispute settlement’. A domiciled outsider stands no chance if a local disputes his title to the property, because land records are not properly documented.
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Sela Pass, Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh
A wooden shack of the Brokpa nomads at Tawang
Monpa tribal women harvesting maize
Roof of the world Nepal
Pokhra The Himalayan
poetry Imagine a place where there is a typical village and an ultra modern city, a place where you can experience diverse topography of the Himalayas and where time seems to stand still. That’s Pokhra! Amit Kishor Subedi
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okhra, a major town in Nepal, is a perfect escape from the chaotic life one might lead on a daily basis. The lush green forests that surround Pokhra make the weather there cool and the backdrop you get is the most spectacular view of the Himalayas. The Himalayan range of Annapurna, Manaslu and Dhaulagiri can be viewed from the valley, but the dominant peak here is none other than Machhapuchre which is called the ‘virgin Himalayas’ because it’s a place where climbing has not been allowed till date. You get to enjoy and revel in the tranquility of the
Roof of the world Nepal
A view of the Seti River
Devotees on the way to Barahi Temple
Himalayas from Pokhra. While Kathmandu is known for its cultural heritage, Pokhra is the city of natural adventure. The Fewa is not an ordinary lake. The temple dedicated to Goddess Barahia two-storey pagoda in the middle of the lake- makes it quite distinct from other lakes. It has an area of 4.4 sq km with a depth of 8.6 metres. The forested area and the World Peace pagoda in the south add to its beauty and splendour. There are a number of restaurants which serve tourists round the clock. A boating trip at the serene lake cannot be missed by anyone because it adds to the list of splendid experiences at Pokhra Begnas. Rupa lakes is located in a thickly forested region and are a perfect retreat to experience the tranquility of Nature. Fish-based cuisine is quite popular in the hotels and restaurants around the place. Pokhra is populated mostly by Buddhists and Hindus. The World Peace pagoda situated on the top of a hill in the southern part of Fewa Lake has four idols of the Buddha facing various directions. Out of the four idols, three were brought from Japan, Thailand and Sri Lanka. This pagoda offers a spectacular view of the Annapurna range and Pokhra. The Barahi temples have its own identity as they are situated in the middle of the Fewa Lake. The Bindabasini Temple is one of the popular sacred places for Hindus and is also the oldest temple in the city. The Matepani monastery which is located at the eastern frontier of the small hillock has a majestic representation of Buddhist art. The Tibetan Buddhist monastery inside Tibetan Refugee Camp is the perfect place to know about Tibetan culture.
Sarangkot
The hillock of 1,400 ft is
now popular for paragliding and zip flyer. The landing station for paragliding is on the banks of the Fewa Lake. Sarangkot has been listed among the top 10 places for paragliding. Zip Flyer is a new adventure begun recently. If you are really adventurous, then take a trip of 3 km in no more than three minutes.
Seti Gandaki River
Seti Gandaki River flows through the city. The name means ‘white river’ as it seems to be white in colour. The river originates from the Himalayas and one of its amazing features is that it flows underground in many places.
Museum
There are four museums in Pokhra showcasing the culture, nature and mountaineering of the region. The International Mountain Museum gives you enough details about mountaineering. It also provides you with information about famous mountain climbers, residents around the mountain and their way of life. The Pokhra Regional Museum has details about the life and culture of the people of Pokhra and the neighbouring regions. The Annapurna Museum has an exceptional collection of birds, insects and butterflies. It also has samples of various volcanic rocks as well. The Gorkha Memorial Museum features everything about the world famous Gorkha community. Pokhra is also a famous gateway and a world famous trekking route. Massive snow field of Pokhra makes it quite distinct from other places. World famous Annapurna trekking circuit begins from here. Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, Machhapuchre, Dhaulagiri Round and the Panchase Ghandruk are only a few of the trekking routes found in Nepal.
The Annapurna range
Getting There Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation and several private airlines offer regular daily shuttle flights from Kathmandu. Pokhra can be reached after a six hour bus ride from Kathmandu The best way to reach Kathmandu is by flight. Major cities of the neighboring countries such as Delhi, Dhaka and Bangkok are connected to Tribhuvan International Airport , the only international airport in Nepal. November 2013 travel & flavors
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Enchanting Kerala Banasura Sagar Dam
BACK TO THE WOODS Text & Photographs: Jose Jacob
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t was pouring as I got down from the car. My friend asked me if I was okay when I desperately tried to cover my camera. I nodded in reply as we walked towards the ticket counter. Be it anecdotes of my friends or picturesque photographs on the internet, Wayanad has always captivated me. Situated in the northern
part of Kerala, the district has somehow preserved the beauty of wilderness which is fast disappearing in the other parts the state. So when my friend invited me for a one-day trip to Banasura Sagar Dam in Wayanad, the largest mud dam in India, I couldn’t refuse. A two-hour drive from Kozhikode (NH212) would take you to Kalpetta, the district headquarters of
Wayanad. From Kalpetta, the Dam is about 22 km away. The best thing about the journey is the half an hour drive through the ghat road, which will reward you with beautiful sceneries of endless expanse of green hills. The temperature gradually started falling as we reached the top. It was drizzling as we reached the Wayanad gate, the entrance to Wayanad district. By the time we reached Kalpetta,
there was heavy rain. From there, we had to divert from the Highway, it took us almost 45 minutes to reach Banasura Sagar Dam. Despite the heavy rain, a large number of visitors were already present there. A short climb from the ticket counter took us to the dam. A speed boat glided in the vast lake perfectly set against the Banasura hills. The southwest monsoon had
Enchanting Kerala Banasura Sagar Dam
Tourists on the way to Banasura Sagar Dam filled the reservoir to the extent that it flooded the surrounding areas too. The tiny islands in the lake make the scene all the more beautiful. We clutched on to our umbrellas and headed to a tiny shelter there. A cold breeze blew and the rain subsided. After clicking a few more pictures, we moved further and found a park with a beautiful garden and a fountain. There was also a play area for children. It was real cold after the rain so we decided to have a coffee from the tea shop near the park. When we were sipping our tea, I saw a number of people entering the woods nearby. We followed them. To our surprise we found a swing park inside with a number of swings tied on to the tall trees. Even though it was drizzling, all the swings were occupied. There were also smaller ones for children. A little ahead of the swing park is the boat jetty. The speed boat service is one of the major attractions of the Banasura Sagar Dam. The speed boat took us around the little dotted islands. Splattering water, we raced ahead. It was truly a spectacular ride. A few miles away from the dam, there is a waterfall known as the Meenmutty falls. There are two falls named Meenmutty in Wayanad, and this is the lesser known one. A 10-minute trudge through the mud road on which I slipped and fell twice took me to the beautiful sight of the water fall. It was getting dark by the time and we were planning to return.
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Travel Info • •
The only way to get there is by road. Bus services available from Kozhikode, Bangalore, Mysore and Ooty. The nearest railway station is about 110 km away at Kozhikode
Travel Tip The best time to visit Wayanad is from October to May. Always remember to take an umbrella because there is always a chance to hamper your trip due to rains.
enchanting Kerala the tourism director‘s desk
S Harikishore IAS
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The Great Backwaters to rival other wonders of the world
am really privileged to launch Kerala Tourism’s new global campaign to promote the state’s beautiful backwaters. Rated ahead of our national pride Taj Mahal in the National Geographic Traveller survey of top Indian tourism destinations, the backwaters of Kerala are unveiled as a self-contained experience in the new campaign. The campaign ‘Great Backwaters’ features high quality aerial photographs of the backwaters. It is also one of the largest aerial still photography projects ever undertaken in the state. With the campaign, the backwaters will have new dimensions and it is also about discovering a fascinating water world on our planet. Kerala Tourism Minister AP Anilkumar has expressed the same view on the promotional campaign. Emphasizing the importance of the backwaters in the life of Keralites, Tourism Secretary Suman Billa says that canal networks, floating markets, houseboats, snake boat races etc. have
become salient features of this water world that captivates the whole world. I expect that the campaign would significantly increase the number of both foreign and domestic visitors to Kerala. The idea of the campaign was conceived after the ‘fascinating water world experience’ narrated by the visitors to Kerala, who discovered life and culture in all its different, interesting forms in this vast, self-sustaining world. The aerial perspective of the campaign was particularly chosen to capture the planet-like largeness and the diversity of life in the backwaters. The three key geographical features of the backwaters – islands, river networks and lakes -- are highlighted in the campaign through aerial photography. The ad shooting led by the renowned aerial photographer Ville MJ Hyvönen from Finland and Shelton Pinheiro, Creative Director, Stark Communications, needs special mention. The unique images of the backwaters were captured by
advanced cameras secured in a highly sophisticated and custom designed eight-rotor helicam. The aerial shoot was controlled from a customised boat equipped with a small helipad to facilitate take-off and landing of the helicam. The different shoot locations were identified during a reconnaissance helicopter flight prior to the actual shoot. I think the backwaters as one of the vital elements of brand Kerala deserve a special campaign to showcase its vast potential and I am quite sure that an innovative perspective like this is definitely needed to draw the attention of the evolved international traveller to this water world. The Great Backwaters campaign will include digital marketing activities which will also see the launch of a separate micro-site (www.greatbackwaters.com) The writer is the Director, Department of Tourism, Kerala Government
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Mystery n Myth Forbidden City
‘Nightmarish’ tales of the
Forbidden City The name Forbidden City arouses the curiosity of the visitors and makes you wonder what lies within its walls.Though paranormal sightings are often reported here, visitors are brave enough to walk through the corridors of the building Savithri S Iyer
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random magazine article, mysteries and a friend’s challenge on whether ghosts and creepy monsters actually exist had me planning a trip which I knew my mother wouldn’t approve of. With a passion for Chinese history and legends, I packed and set off for Beijing. My brochures and internet research had me imagining a scene straight out of the critically acclaimed Ang Lee film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. It was with difficulty that I reminded myself I was not travelling back in time and I was very much in the 21st century. Although the sights and sounds
of Beijing appealed to me, I was much more interested in what the ancient legends of the Chinese Emperors had left behind, for now. Located right in the centre of the Chinese capital, Beijing, the towering building certainly remains an imperious figure and would intimidate anyone coming here. During its heyday, the Forbidden City served as the Chinese Imperial Palace for the Ming as well as the Qing Dynasty and was home of the Chinese emperors and their households as well as the ceremonial and
political centre of the government. Built between 1406 and 1420, the complex consists of nearly 980 buildings and the palace complex has been an epitome of the traditional Chinese Palatial
Mystery n Myth Forbidden City
architecture. Today, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses the largest collection of preserved wooden structures in the world. The name seems to indicate something quite foreboding but as our tourist guide pointed out, it meant that no one could enter or leave the palace without the Emperor’s permission. Tradition has it that the Forbidden City is divided into two parts, the Outer Court includes the southern section and was used only for ceremonies while the Inner Court encompasses the northern sections and was the residence of the Emperor and his family. As you enter from the Meridian Gate, you come face to face with a large square beyond which lies the Hall of Supreme Harmony Square which is the largest surviving wooden structure today. When compared to the intimidating structure of the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Central Peace is much smaller but is no less splendid. The hall was used by the Emperor to prepare and rest before and during
ceremonies. The Hall of Preserving Harmony situated right behind it was the site of the final stage of the Imperial examinations. The Inner Court features another set of elaborate halls, namely the Palace of Heavenly Court, the Hall of Union and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. The halls are smaller than the ones in the Outer Court and were the official residence of the Emperor and the Empress. A palace with so much of history and splendour could not be without its own share of scandals and treachery. During the reign of the Ming Dynasty, stories of mysterious deaths of servants or nobles were quite common and according to the guide, the bloody history of the murders committed within the walls was quite dark. He added that since it was home to hundreds of concubines, guards and servants each with a dark motive, the number of executions within the walls of the palace was quite high and as a result, the number of paranormal sightings within the palace is also such. Many visitors and workers have raised
questions on the paranormal sightings within the walls and there have been reports of mysterious eerie sounds and baffling sightings of ghosts of maid servants. Although these claims do not deter the number of visitors coming to the Forbidden City, visitors claim to feel uneasy while walking through certain areas of the complex. After the palace was converted into a museum, the guards who lived and worked there have also reported seeing creepy looking creatures running around the halls at night. Sounds of people crying and blood curdling screams have been reported by guards as well. Perhaps the most famous haunting may have come from the Tomb of General Yuan, a courageous loyalist of the Emperor who was betrayed by those jealous of his accomplishments. The general was sentenced to a rather brutal death and today, there are many who claim to have seen his ghost roaming the palace grounds. Tales of haunting and paranormal sightings do not deter those who come to visit the palace.
Visiting Time April-October: 8.30 am to 5 pm (Tickets unavailable after 4 pm) November-March: 8.30 am to 4.30 pm (Tickets unavailable after 3.30 pm)
Getting there By Subway Line 1: Get off at Tiananmen East Station and walk north through the Gate of Heavenly Peace. By Subway Line 2: Get off at Qianmen Station and walk north through the Tiananmen Tower
By Air: Beijing Capital International Airport, situated 25 km from the Forbidden City
Where to eat The Imperial Palace of the Forbidden City, Beijing
The Forbidden City Chinese Restaurant and The Courtyard Restaurant offer some of the best local delights for tourists.
MY SHOT Shwetha Krishnakumar is a photography enthusiast based in Mumbai
LEAN DAYS ARE HERE: A farmer anxiously looking at the sky as dark clouds at a village in Bhandardara, Maharastra
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MY SHOT
Dinesh Gupta is a Bikaner based photography enthusiast
MILES TO GO: A decorated camel follows its master along a desert path under the scorching sun
George Thengummoottil is an ardent traveller and photography enthusiast
JUMBO DELIGHT: A herd of elephants grazing on a grassland in Wayanad on a normal day
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Elisa Morello is a photography enthusiast settled in Padua, Northern Italy
LAKESHORE: The beautiful Caldonazzo Lake, Trentino , Italy
Govind Viswanath is a photographer based in Mysore
IN FULL BLAZE: A view of the heritage city of Mysore from Chamundi Hills at night
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MY SHOT Shweta Raval is an ardent travel and photography enthusiast
AN INTIMATE MOMENT: Two zebras at the Kruger National Park, South Africa depicts what seems to be an intimate moment between two Zebras
Send us your pictures and tell us the stories behind them. email: editorial@dcmediacorp.com
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Cruise Journey Cunard Cruises
Queen Victoria offers
a royal voyage Cunard, the owner of the fabled cruise linersQueen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth- needs no introduction. A subsidiary of Carnival Corporation and PLC, the liners of Cunard promise a really stylish ocean travel and its century and half experience seems to be bowling over passengers by the day T&F Correspondent
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hen it claims that the most glamorous names have made champagne toasts in her salons, waltzed the night away in her grand ballrooms, savoured grand feasts of the finest flavors in her dining rooms, and whiled away hours immersed in fascinating conversations on her decks, you can’t disagree since the famous ocean liner Queen Victoria casts a spell on us right from the first visit.
Cunard lures passengers with its rich heritage of ocean travel and might make us jot down our experiences which are fit to fill the pages of an adventure tale. The ‘Mediterranean Discovery’ in Queen Victoria is something that you don’t want to miss.
Queen Victoria
Named after the late British Monarch Queen Victoria, the cruise liner is known for her elegance and her graceful splendour. Although this liner lacks the glamour of Queen Mary
Cruise Journey Cunard Cruises
2, with luxurious marbles, wood and rich fabrics, she exudes elegance and is adored by her crew and passengers alike. Queen Mary ships are noted for their grand lobby staircase with an artwork. Queen Victoria also possesses one such relief artwork by the famous British sculptor John McKenna. The Queen’s Room in Queen Victoria is inspired by the royal retreat Osborne House. The Queen’s Room ballroom is the social hub of the ship with white gloved afternoon tea service and at night Captains cocktail parties. In Queen Victoria, you will never miss the plants. It has got ‘Winter Garden’ which features plants bathed in natural light. The roof opens in warmer climates to the gentle sea breeze. Dining at Queen Victoria restaurants is rated among the finest. The incomparable Cunard Grills experience will stimulate your taste buds for a long time. The exclusive lounges are designed to create a sense of intimacy complementing the benefits of being on a large ship. A library with over 6,000 titles will provide comfort if you are bored inside, which is never going to happen. Not satisfied with this? Well, what about enjoying lavish hi-tech musical productions, superbly choreographed shows or some light entertainments within the stunning three-tier Royal Court Theatre. For something special, why not reserve the best seats in the house, in one of the first private theatre boxes at sea? The award-winning Elemis Spa offers blissful massages, therapies and treatments. To help the body de-stress and detoxify, you can avail the heat-therapy chambers provided by the Royal Bath House thermal suite.
Mediterranean Discovery
The Mediterranean Discovery journey in Queen Victoria will provide you the most memorable events. Her departure from the port of Southampton in England is scheduled on November 29. The ports of call include Cadiz, Malaga, Valencia, Barcelona, Gibraltar and La Coruna in Spain. At Cadiz, the ancient city, you can explore the beguiling honeycomb of plazas, promenades, enchanting ruins and churches cluster around the gold-
domed baroque cathedral. Alternatively head to Seville and soak up in the atmosphere of the flamenco. The birthplace of Picasso, Malaga is the gateway to the beaches of Torremolinos, the exclusive clubs and marina of Marbella and Puerto Banus. The city of Valencia is an exhilarating mix of history, art and intellectual activity. Watch the beauty of orange rooftops and blue-domed churches after braving the 200 steps to the summit of the amphitheatre. Valencia’s rich Hispanic culture is visible everywhere in art and architecture reflecting Roman, Visigoth, Moorish and Aragonese traditions. Delve into the Picasso Museum or Miró Foundation at Barcelona. Explore the genius of Gaudí, the Catalan architect of Spanish nationality, as you walk around the city from Parc Güell. Witness the
extraordinary Casa Mila and Casa Batlló, and marvel at his unfinished masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia. Grab a cable car to carry you up the ancient Pillar of Hercules for views that will leave you breathless. For the wildlife enthusiast in you, there’s a stop to appreciate the diverse birdlife and to meet those famous Barbary Apes. Beneath Gibraltar’s white cliffs grow a profusion of palm, pine, and cypress. No fewer than 600 varieties of flowers grow here, some found nowhere else on Earth. At La Coruna, ‘the city where nobody is a stranger’ is a gem on Spain’s northwestern coast. Tantalise your taste buds as you sample Galicia’s mouth-watering seafood with octopus, oysters and scallops. If you have a taste for history, feast on the vista from the world’s only working Roman lighthouse.
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Picture Story Moscow
Hallmarks of Moscow
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Matryoshka doll, consists of a set of wooden dolls of decreasing size placed one inside the other. Traditionally, the outer layer is a woman, dressed in a sarafan, a long and shapeless traditional Russian peasant jumper dress and the smallest, innermost doll is typically a baby turned from a single piece of wood. The State Darwin Museum, established in 1907 by AF Kots, was the first biological museum in the world. The largest natural science museum occupies three buildings with an area of approximately 20,000 sq m.
Leen Thobias
is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography
Luxury Hotels Raffles Dubai
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Flaunting style & opulence Raffles Dubai is another word for luxury and style. The moment you enter Raffles, you find it as your dream hotel which is complete with beauty, elegance and magnificence T&F Team
Luxury Hotels Raffles Dubai
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The lobby at Raffles Dubai
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t’s not every day that a hotel becomes synonymous with the city it is located in. Raffles is one of those hotels that hold the distinction of having a rare blend of luxury and style. Coming here is the ultimate experience because you don’t believe that it could get better than this. The hotel was named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, and was opened nearly 125 years ago. Today, the hotel has 10 branches across the world, including those in cities like Paris, Dubai and Beijing. The company plans to expand its network with branches in Istanbul and Jakarta in two years. The 19-storey hotel built in the shape of an Egyptian pyramid is located at the Wafi Food and Entertainment Complex, just 15 minutes drive from Dubai International Airport. The hotel chain celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2012 with a wide range of specialities and cocktails dating back to 1880. Come November 6th you will find that Spain has come visiting Raffles through this premier event planned by Dorothy Pentzke of CASI Global New York. This premier event is the first of many to come in the region and it illustrates CASI Global’s deep commitment to delivering unique signature events. CASI Global is an international diversified services company. CASI Global’s CEO Ajay Jacob’s commitment to quality and building relationships is the cornerstone of its success. This will be demonstrated through their first international event at Raffles Dubai. CASI Global has over five decades of experience in engineering, construction, trading and luxury event planning, with clients around
the world. Its exemplary service and dynamic team enables CASI Global to partner with businesses; all levels of government, non-profit institutions; educational institutions and other industries to develop strategic alliances worldwide. CASI Global is based in New York, and is expanding into the Middle East and Far East after years of success in Latin America and the USA. For the first time ever in Dubai, CASI Global New York brings to Raffles an exclusive event that will showcase the arts and culture of Spain, a once in a lifetime opportunity for those visiting Raffles on that day. The exquisite modern and contemporary Spanish art representing the works of the acclaimed Spanish artists of the 19th and 20th centuries will be on display for the first time in UAE. The outstanding pieces of arts sourced from museums and galleries throughout Spain include the works of the renowned artists Juan Muñoz, Miguel Barceló, Francis Picabia, Antonio Saura, Jaume Plensa and Cristina Iglesias, all of them have displayed their masterpieces at prestigious institutes like New York’s Museum of Modern Art and Tate Modern, London. With a net worth of nearly $1.6 million, their works will be on display from November 7th to 13th. Art lovers will also be treated to a selection of artwork from the Miraj Gallery in Dubai as part of the event. A private viewing of the exhibition will be held on November 6th at the Raffles Ballroom, a place where you may hope for your Cinderella fancies to come alive. The splendid ballroom, which is being decorated with flora by Worood will be transformed into a chic setting for viewing the artwork. It is also the place where the talented chefs of Raffles will outdo themselves by preparing the most
authentic Spanish tapas and delicacies from around the world. Adding to the cuisine will be a selection of premium Spanish wines and spirits by Raffles award winning sommelier. What will make the event more spectacular? How about a livewire, an electrifying flamenco performance by artistes from Spain? Authenticity: That’s what is being brought to Dubai by CASI Global New York! The exquisite architectural style of the hotel grabs your attention. The hotel is topped with a glass capstone that has three stories to it. The top of the structure is golden and it sparkles in the daylight and is backlit in the night. The striking feature of the hotel is its Botanical Garden on the third floor. The garden was designed with four areas each of them represents the essential elements of life such as water, air, earth and fire which converge on a large glass dome called the eye of the Horus, the Egyptian God of the sky. Elements of fire and ice are a common theme in the hotel and it is found in the 7 restaurants and bars in the hotel. If you’re looking to indulge in some well-deserved relaxing treatments, there is Raffles Spa which has six treatment rooms and a VIP suite that is situated in the center of the botanical garden. The spa is one of the first to offer the Egyptian Gold, a 24 karat gold facial treatment, and provides a cooling system on the wave shaped pool deck. Each presidential suite at the hotel has been designed in accordance with the five elements like Earth where natural hues of cream and brown deck the rooms, Fire where splashes of colour in the fabric and dark timber finishes adorns the rooms, Air in which a blend of creams and whites are the highlight and finally Water with hues of blue. Dining in style is the catchword at the restaurants of Raffles with each offering you something new and tantalizing. The Azur restaurant overlooking the Botanical Garden features an international buffet and has an abundant choice of Pan Arabic and Asian cuisines while Fire and Ice is a sophisticated steakhouse serving the best meats in the city. When an exclusive event like the CASI Global New York’s Spanish extravagance comes to the town, then this hotel is the place to be and Raffles and CASI are out to bring forth that extra special touch to your stay at the hotel.
A view of Raffles
The interior of the hotel
A staff member interacting with a guest
Tales from Emirates Hitjet International
Hitjet International makes flying more enjoyable Hit 96.7 FM is all geared up to take travel enthusiasts on a mind-blowing tour through some of the well known destinations of the world. Those listening to the FM station would be familiar with the HitJet International, an initiative that gives you a once in a lifetime opportunity to go globetrotting
T&F Correspondent
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itjet International is a household name among the Malayalee listeners of Hit 96.7FM, Dubai’s leading Malayalam Music Station. Since its inception seven years ago, Hitjet International has flown people to Thailand, Malaysia and Nepal on its international flight and Kadavu Resort in Kozhikode, Athirapally as part of the home flight! What’s best is that these trips are all expense paid. All the presenters accompany the listeners on these flights for easy interaction with the guests! According to the management, this initiative has helped Hit 96.7FM connect with its listeners on a whole new level, bringing them closer. Some of the travels have included hot destinations across Asia such as Bangkok, Malaysia and Nepal
Bangkok
Come to rating, Bangkok scores 9 out of 10. An all year round tourist destination, this city of smiles is a favourite among shoppers, surfers, animal lovers and families looking for a cheap and easy
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Tales from Emirates Hitjet International getaway. Thailand welcomes travellers of any budget and has a lot of exciting things to offer. Known equally for shopping and sea-adventure, Bangkok is in close proximity to the more historical cities like Ayuthaya and Kanchanburi and the pulsating nightlife of Pattaya. There is never a dearth of food choices in Bangkok. Starting from Continental to Mediterranean, to Indian, Chinese and Arabic, you will find food to suit your taste and mood. However, vegetarians must be warned that more often than not, “pure vegetarian” is just a myth so when ordering, please be specific and watch as they make it as well.
Malaysia
A favoured travel destination for families, Malaysia is known for three things – The stunning Petronas Towers, The Batu Caves and the more exciting Genting Highlands. Since it is a cosmopolitan nation, food is never a problem here. Both vegetarians and meat-lovers can enjoy a wide variety of cuisines. The local food has a strong Malay-Chinese influence, but their satay’s covered in sticky peanut sauce is worth dying for.
Nepal
One of the best travel destinations for families and adventure seekers, Nepal is also home to the highest peak in the world. Even if you cannot actually climb the Mt Everest, you can get a bird’s eye view of the mountains in one of their mountain flights! Temples, river rafting, bungee jumping, trekking, jungle walks and shopping are some of the highlights of this beautiful mountain country. Enjoy the local flavors of Nepal, starting with their traditional dal-bhat, a simple meal consisting entirely of rice and lentils. Wholesome and very filling! Remember that Nepalese cuisine is very similar to North-Indian cuisine and consists largely of vegetables. Meat is available although fish doesn’t often feature as a main dish.
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Strange Travellers
Adventures of a Russian traveller This Russian sailor who has already made many world records is now eyeing a voyage in a rowboat in the violent Pacific Ocean this year from the Chilean port of Valparaiso to Australia’s eastern coast
Photos: www.konyukhov.com
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T&F Correspondent
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othing other than adventures could perhaps inspire Fyodor Konyukhov, the famous Russian adventurer, traveller and sailor. An Eastern Orthodox priest, Konyukhov with blue eyes and sporting long blonde hair, thick moustache and beard undertook his first adventure crossing the Sea of Azov, a shallow sea, in a fishing rowboat at the age of 15 and hasn’t looked back since. Fyodor Konyukhov is the only individual in the world to reach the five poles of the planet: North Geographical Pole, South Geographical Pole, pole of considerable inaccessibility in the Arctic Ocean, Mt. Everest (Alpinists pole) and Cape Horn (Yachtsmen pole). Earlier, he had set world records by crossing Greenland on a dogsled in 22 hours and crossing the Atlantic Ocean solo in a rowboat in 46 days. Konyukhov has planned his next expedition to cross the Pacific Ocean in a rowboat. On December 12 this year on his 62nd birthday, he will begin his 8,000-nautical mile voyage from the Chilean port of Valparaiso to Australia’s eastern coast which he plans to accomplish in 200 days. The carbon fiber boat ‘K9’ was designed specifically for the voyage has a length of 9m and a weight of 600kg, including the GPS unit, lights, VHF radio, a few water makers (turns sea water into drinking water), satellite phone, etc. The electrical gadgets will be powered by batteries which will be charged by solar panels placed on the top of the cabins. ‘K9’ will have two sets of oars- long ones for calm waters and short ones for stormy weather. Konyukhov’s attempt attracts the world attention as no successful crossing of the Pacific Ocean in a rowboat has been recorded so far. A voyage of this sort in the violent Pacific is extremely challenging and an emergency situation could emerge at any moment, even for a cargo ship.
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