Travel and Flavors October 2013 by MK Menon

October 2013 KERENG02406

www.travelandflavors.com

Cambodian

Chronicles Monuments of

love

UAE - AED 7 US - $5 India - `50

Thailand Tales

Tibetan Cuisine Ramakkalmedu Kuala Lampur Tantalising dishes for non vegetarian lovers

A jaw dropping view from the hilltop is in store for you

The streets of Kuala Lampur appeal to tourists

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Cover photo: Khmer Classical Dancer performing at Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

cover story

Cambodian Chronicles Cambodia is a destination that tourists simply cannot resist. The moment you enter Cambodia, the charming nation with its fascinating history starts regaling your senses and are in the midst of oriental spectacles.

Thai flavors & splendours Thailand with its rich heritage and cultural backdrop is a destination that will never fade out. It is the hub of all tourist activities and is at the height of popularity amongst those looking to explore the realms of Asia. With plenty of family oriented destinations alongside its famed nightlife, Thailand lures travellers from across the world

91 Love stories etched in stone Being in love never goes out of style and it is the most written about human emotion. We take you through a journey into five flamboyant lovers in history who expressed their eternal love through monuments. Spread across five nations, these monuments would most likely touch your heart

Into the Wild by Rathika Ramasamy 10 Travel News 12 Events Calendar 14 Unique Festivals 15 My shot 19 Grand Palace sans the monarch 24

The Grand Palace with its complex architectural style is an appealing tourist spot in Thailand



42 Sanctifying experience at Lourdes Coming to Lourdes is an experience and you would be awed by it. The shrine wehre the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared 18 times to a young peasant girl called Bernadette draws thousands of believers. Today, it has become one of Europe’s most popular pilgrimage spots

67 Whiling away time in Kuala Lampur

A walk through the streets of Kuala Lampur with Shweta Ganesh Kumar

71 Magnificent Manipur

Suresh Joseph talks about magnificent Manipur, its war memorials and British hegemony

74 Gurkhas, the pride of Nepal

Nepal’s tryst with its Gurkha legacy is a tale often retold and we take you through some of the legends.

Dubai malls: Shoppers’ paradise 28

77 Ramakkalmedu gone with the wind

Travel in royal style 30

80 From the Tourism Director’s desk

Dubai is one of the world’s best known shopping destinations and offers something for everyone

The Golden Chariot takes you on an unforgettable journey through South India

Thus Spake the Shots 34 Dhanushkodi

A journey through the Blue City 36

Known for huge palaces and forts, Jodhpur is a splendid destination for tourists

When lavenders bloom 40

Provence, France offers a lavender treat that will remain eteched in your mind for many years to come

Culinary delights at Paul Hotels 47

The Paul seems to be conquering hearts and stomachs with its food and perfect ambience

Kenyan wildlife jaunt 50

Karnika E Yashwant takes you on a Kenyan safari through his column

Ramakkalmedu, one of the windiest spots in Kerala offers a fantastic view from atop the hills S Harikishore, the Director of tourism in Kerala talks about his favourite destinations

81 Cool places for hangout in Kochi

Fort Kochi’s quirky cafes seem to be earning plenty of brownie points amongst tourists

82 Elusive Teotihuacan ruins A look into the mystery of the ruins at Teotihuacan in Mexico

85 Dining the Mughal way Dubai’s India Palace is a popular Mughlai cuisine food joint

90 Waterproof gadgets

Waterproof cameras have become an essential part of a traveller these days

96 Photo of the month 98 Determined to travel long distances

Duke Ninan’s hunger for adventure is an inspiring tale

Volume 1 Issue 7 | October 2013 Founder & editor Ravi Deecee Executive Editor Ratheema Ravi DC MEDIA - OPERATIONS

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contributors Rathika Ramasamy is India’s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the world’s top 10 wildlife photgraphers

Leen Thobias is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography

Suresh Joseph is a triple postgraduate in Economics, Management and Industrial Relations. He has authored two books and presently he is a Consultant and Mentor based in Kochi, Kerala

Shweta Ganesh Kumar is a travel columnist and the bestselling author of Coming Up On the Show and Between The Headlines, two novels on the Indian broadcast news industry

Richi Mohanty works as a User Interface Designer in Bangalore. She is an avid traveller who loves meeting new people and experiencing various cultures

Karnika E Yashwant is a naturalist and is involved in several projects which seek to stop the destruction of natural habitat due to human negligence

Amit Kishor Subedi is an avid traveller and documentary film maker based in Pokhara, Nepal. He is involved in documentaries which promote art and culture in Nepal

travel & flavors October 2013

letter from the editor

ravellers from the west are always agog to know about the South East Asian countries, particularly Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. These countries and their centuries old culture and tradition are in reality little known to the western world. Everything from religion to cuisine seem exotic and every object raises immense curiosity among visitors who can find a unique culture in the region deeply influenced by Hinduism and Buddhism. In spite of modernity, architectural style, custom and tradition are remaining more or less intact in these countries which can boast of a history of thousands of years. Cambodia with its alluring oriental flavors is a destination that any traveler simply cannot resist. Throughout its long and vibrant history, Cambodia has been a source of cultural inspiration and an important religious centre in the region. The unique Khmer belief that has evolved from Buddhism and Hinduism has heavily influenced the religious beliefs of the people. Architectural wonders of Cambodia point to the extraordinary talent of artisans of the ancient time and many of the structures such as the Angkor temple complex are engineering spectacles even for the modern architects. Thailand is a tourists’ paradise in the east. With a number of beautiful, quiet beaches, luxurious resort hotels and tongue-ticking local cuisine, this tourist location will make your stay pleasant. Thailand with its rich heritage and cultural backdrop is a destination that will never fade out of the world’s tourist circuit. Exotic temples and heritage palaces apart from the emerging modern cities like Bangkok are sure to make your stay memorable forever. The cover story of this issue ‘Cambodia’s oriental flavors’ and a special article ‘Thai flavors & splendours’ provide you an insight into these two Southeastern Asian nations and the region as well. Those who would like to have authentic Tibetan and Chinese cuisine, Majnu Ka Tilla in New Delhi is the best place. The strong aroma of meat even before you enter this hotel will pierce your nostrils. All popular Tibetan delicacies are on offer here and a food lover can order them without second thoughts. Original taste is assured. The article ‘Truly authentic’ gives you details of what all is available at Majnu Ka Tilla. Food lovers can enjoy the Mughlai cuisine at India Palace restaurant network in the UAE, a unique place to taste cuisine and feel the ambience of the Mughal era. ‘Dining the Mughal way’ gives you nothing but a menu of the Indian cuisine being served at India Palace. In addition, ‘Unique Festivals’ ‘Travel Kit’, ‘Strange Travellers’ etc. make this issue interesting for all our readers.

into the wild Mangalajodi village

Rathika Ramasamy is Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first woman wildlife photographer and one of the top 10 wildlife photographers of the world

Ideal time to visit: November to February

Getting there:

Mangalajodi is 75 km from Bhubaneswar, Odisha, enroute to Chennai on NH-5.

Nearest bus stand: Chandpur Tangi

Nearest railway station:

Kalupada and Mukateswar

Lords of the sky

flock of Black-tailed Godwits, a Northern Pintail and a Whiskered Tern at Mangalajodi village, Odisha, a bird paradise on the northern banks of the Chilika Lake, which attracts thousands of migratory waterfowls. Chilika Lake receives over 200 species of birds during the migratory season. The highlight of this place is that it has not become a commercial tourist spot. With a large number, it is an amazing place for avian photographers.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Travel News

News World Travel

Cruise Shipping Asia-Pacific Conference from Oct 8

Singapore: The annual Cruise Shipping AsiaPacific Conference will be held at Marine Bay Sands, Singapore, from October 8 to 9. The twoday conference will assess the growth in the cruise sector of the tourism industry. The conference will be led by a panel of international industry experts which will cover the essential topics and provide insights into the Asian cruise market.

First Euro-Asian Ski Resorts Conference from Oct 8 ALMATY (KAZAKHSTAN): In order to promote snow tourism in the country, Euro-Asian Ski Resorts Conference will be held in Almaty, Kazakhstan, from October 8 to 9. The conference, jointly organised by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) and the municipality of Almaty, will have the presence of prominent members of the winter tourism industry which will acquire and develop the ski tourism market in Europe and Asia.

Hotel Investment Conference to be held from Oct 16 Hong Kong: The annual Hotel Investment Conference Asia Pacific (HICAP) will be held from October 16 to 18. The three-day event will bring together experts in the Asia Pacific hotel industry and influential decision makers on a platform.

Cancun Travel Mart Mexico Summit from Oct 14 Cancun (Mexico): The 25th annual Cancun Travel Mart Mexico Summit will be held in Cancun, Mexico, from October 14 to 16. Mexican travel and tourism industry experts are expected to

12 travel & flavors

October 2013

participate in the three-day conference which will be a platform for them to exchange ideas on the industry.

World Travel Awards African Gala Ceremony on Oct 16 Nairobi (Kenya): The African leg of the World Travel Awards Gala Ceremony will be held on October 16 in Nairobi, Kenya. The ceremony will feature prominent members of the African travel and tourism industry. The ceremony to be conducted at the Safari Park Hotel will see the announcement of the winners from the tourism and travel sector.

Adventure Travel World Summit to be held from Oct 26 Swakopmund and Windhoek (Namibia): The 10th edition of the Adventure Travel World Summit will be held in Namibia from October 26 to 31. This is the first time Africa is hosting the conference. It will promote travel and tourism in the country.

Russia & CIS Hotel Investment Conference from Oct 22 Sochi (Russia): The 9th Russia and CIS Hotel Investment Conference will be held from October 22 to 23 at the Radisson Blu Resort & Congress Hotel in Sochi, Russia. The two-day event will bring together nearly 360 top level executives from around 29 nations.

World Travel Market from Nov 4 London (UK): The World Travel Market will be held from November 4 to 7 at Excel London Convention Centre, London. The four day event staged annually is expected to attract leading experts from the travel and tourism sector and is an opportunity for travel and tourism experts to meet network and conduct business under one roof

Travel Events

October Events Calendar DATE

EVENT

LOCATION

October 5-13 Navarathri India October 5-13 Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta Albuquerque, US October 9-13 Durga Puja Kolkata, India October 10-12 The Great American Beer Festival Colorado, US October 10-17 Jerusalem Knights Festival Jerusalem, Israel October 11-27 The Melbourne Festival Melbourne, Australia October 14 Círio de Nazaré Belém, Brazil October 16-17 Masskara Festival Philippines October 17- 18 Marwar Festival Jodhpur, India October 17-21 Rajasthan International Folk Festival Jodhpur, India October 17-20 Frieze Art Fair London, England October 19-20 Koneisto Helsinki, Finland October 17-27 Fantasy fest Key West, Florida, US October 20 Bridge Day West Virginia, US October 20 Manca Fiesta La Quiaca, Argentina October 22 Jida iMatsuri (Festival of the Ages) Kyoto, Japan October 25-27 Creole Festival Seychelles October 27 Festival du Vent Calvi, France October 28-29 El Señor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles) Lima, Peru October 31 Halloween North America and Europe

14 travel & flavors

October 2013

Unique Festivals

Recalling the

golden days of Kyoto The Jidai Matsuri is a celebration of the past glory of Kyoto, former capital of Japan. It consists of a large parade with the participants wearing costumes from previous eras. The parade is not only a visual treat for eyes and mind but also provides an insight into the history of Japan

Jidai Matsuri

When: October 22 Where: Kyoto, Japan

he Jidai Matsuri or the Festival of the Ages as the name implies celebrates some of the most important eras in the history of Japan. Originally intended as a festival to celebrate the foundation of Kyoto, today it’s a pageantry of sorts with costumed parades depicting the various eras in Japanese history. October 22 is the perfect day for a visit to Kyoto if you want to brush up your Japanese history. Kyoto will regale you with a long parade of people dressed up in various costumes. The procession takes out from the Imperial Palace to the Heain Shrine and the participants put up perfect costumes from various periods of Japanese history, portraying important historical figures as well as war heroes. The festival begins at daybreak with the portable shrines called ‘mikoshi’ brought out of the Imperial Palace for the public to pay respects. The ‘mikoshi’ represents the Japanese emperors Kanmu and Komei and the five hour-procession

begins in the afternoon with almost 2,000 performers who dress up as Samurai, military figures and common people from the earlier eras. With intricate ‘jūnihitoe’ costumes, women participants accompanied by a military band add more colour to the parade. The whole spectacle is a wonderful visual treat for eyes and mind. The festival’s roots can be traced to the times when the Japanese capital was relocated to Tokyo in 1868 from Kyoto. Apprehensive about the shifting that might badly affect the reputation and glory of Kyoto, the city administration elaborately celebrated 1,100th anniversary of the city’s founding. The administration also decided to organise a parade in memory of the two emperors who were associated with the city. The historical characters displayed in the parade cover approximately 1,100 years during which Kyoto was the national capital. The procession is separated into different sections like historical eras, themes etc

Unique Festivals

Scare away ‘ghosts’

During Halloween Come October 31, the carved pumpkins and scary costumes re-enter the market which can only mean one thing- it’s that time of the year when you would be advised not to walk out at night if you’re worried about being followed around by ‘ghosts’ and ‘monsters’ When: October 31 Halloween Where: Europe and North America

bserved in a number of countries in various ways, Halloween is a fun time for children and adults alike. On Halloween night, children and adults dress up as creatures from the netherworld, light bonfires, and enjoy spectacular firework displays or take part in Halloween celebrations in the form of a street carnival. Many nations have their own customs relating to Halloween. Britain and Ireland began the custom of putting up Jack-O lanterns to scare away a mythical creature called Stingy Jack who was abandoned by both the God and the Devil and who had to suffer for eternity on the Earth. Legend has it that people began putting up lanterns carved out of turnips, beet and pumpkins at their doors and windows on Halloween to scare off Jack. Scary faces on the lanterns were added as the years went by to add more chill to the festival. The Halloween Brack was a fruit cake that contained various objects

baked into the bread and was used as a fortune-telling game. The items were an assortment of stuff like a pea, a stick, a piece of cloth, a small coin and a ring. Each item has some meaning attached to it like the pea signifies that a person would be single for one more year, the cloth or rag signifies bad luck and the person who has received the coin would be rich that year and so on. When the cake was served, a person who received any of the items in their cake would accept it as his fortune for the coming year. Games are often played, such as bobbing for apples, in which apples, peanuts, and other nuts along with some small coins are placed in a basin of water. The apples and nuts float, but the coins, which sink, are harder to catch. Everyone takes turns catching as many items possible using only their mouths. In some households, coins are embedded in the fruit for the children to “earn” as they catch each apple.

I Smile all the way to

Masskara festival Leave your worries behind and try to smile for a healthy, happy life. This could be the sole purpose of Masskara festival in Philippines which makes you sing and dance with overwhelming joy

Masskara

When: October 19 Where: Bacolod, Phili ppines

f you’re at Bacolod in Philippines on October 19, you would have no choice but to smile because that’s what you are expected to do during the Masskara festival, celebrated just to make people smile. The city of Bacolod makes it an opportunity to pull the residents out of the gloomy atmosphere. The festival is, therefore, a bold declaration by the people of the city that no matter how tough and bad the times are, Bacolod City is going to push on, survive, and in the end, triumph. Masskara or the Festival of Smiles is celebrated with great joy and merry-making on the third weekend of October. The name Masskara is a fusion of the English word for ‘many people’ and cara, the Spanish word for ‘face’. If you go to the Masskara festival, the fun pageantry will give you several days of visual overload. People garbed in elegant and ingenious costumes dance on the streets, their masks

reflective of the jovial Negrense spirit. Costumes are made of fabrics of different colours and patterns, embellished with exotic feathers, shiny sequins, multi-coloured beads and paired with towering headgear. This festival features a street dance competition where people from all walks of life troop to the streets to see colourfully masked dancers gyrating to the rhythm of Latin musical beats in a display of mastery, gaiety, coordination and stamina. The masks on show resemble everything under the Filipino sun- sea creatures, starfish, peacocks, exotic flowers, vegetable men etc. Major activities include the Masskara Queen Beauty pageant, carnivals, drum and bugle corps competitions, food festivals, sports events, musical concerts, agriculture-trade fairs, garden shows, and other special events organised ad-hoc every year. So get yourself a kaleidoscopic mask and join the people of Bacolod leaving your worries away.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Unique Festivals

S A celebration of Dylan Thomas Legacy

Wales is decked up for the annual Dylan Thomas Festival. A large number of Dylan Thomas fans, including talented writers, from different countries will converge here to celebrate the event from October 27 to November 9

Dylan Thomas Fest

When: October 27 Where: Swansea, Wales

wansea, Wales, will witness a confluence of Dylan Thomas fans when they take part in the annual Dylan Thomas Festival on October 27. The festival celebrates the life and times of Dylan Thomas, one of Britain’s influential modernist writers. The festival hosted by the Dylan Thomas Centre looks to include a number of literary events to promote the writer’s legacy. The 16th annual Dylan Thomas Festival to be held from October 27 to November 9 will include talks, events, special guests and workshops to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Doctor Who. The Dylan Thomas Centre presents an evening based on the popular Danish drama, The Killing, featuring two of the biggest names- crime and mystery novelist David Hewson, who has adapted series one and two as novels and actor, writer and television presenter Emma Kennedy who wrote The Killing Handbook. Fluellen Theatre Company

offers a preview and discussion of its new production Dylan’s Rebecca’s Daughters. There will also be an evening of reading from Dylan’s work in his old local, The Uplands Tavern. The Festival and Bluestocking Lounge join forces to present ‘Wordy Shapes of Women’, a night where burlesque collides with Dylan Thomas’ poetry, preceded by a free creative writing workshop led by performer and poet Primrose Proper on how the art and creativity of burlesque can open a whole new artistic avenue. Jo Furber, Swansea Council’s Literature Officer, said: “The Dylan Thomas Festival celebrates arts and entertainment, including music, theatre, art and prose. We are thrilled to welcome an impressive range of talented guests to the festival. We expect visitors from across Britain the US, Japan and Australia. This year’s festival will be especially exciting as we lead up to Dylan Thomas’ centenary in 2014.”

MY SHOT Goutham Rajan is an engineer and a photography enthusiast

LEFT IN THE LURCH: An abandoned country boat on the shore of Havelock Island, Andaman & Nicobar, during low tide

October 2013 travel & flavors

MY SHOT

Kiran Joseph is an engineer, an ardent traveller and a photography enthusiast

A SPLENDID EVENING: A group of youngsters enjoying the sunset at Om Beach, Gokarnam, Karnataka

Neerej Sasikumar is an engineer and a travel enthusiast

CITY LIGHTS: A view of the Hong Kong cityscape and harbour from the famed Victoria Peak in the night

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October 2013

Syed Ahmed Safi is a Delhi-based filmmaker and photographer

BEOFRE THE NIGHTFALL: An evening at Sarahan, Shimla, when the western horizon above the mountain ranges shines in the twilight

Shajee Kitangoth works for a Banglaore-based telecom company

GREEN MANSION: A small water body looking like a plain glass surrounded by the thick forest on the Kerala-Karnataka border. This sylvan beauty serves as a refresher for travellers, pleasing their eyes and mind October 2013 travel & flavors

MY SHOT JoJi Philip Koshy is an IT professional based in Dubai

TOWERING GLORY: A view of the Burj Al Arab, a luxury hotel in Dubai, UAE, in the night. It is the fourth tallest hotel in the world designed in the shape of the sail of a dhow

Send us your pictures and tell us the stories behind them. email: editorial@dcmediacorp.com

22 travel & flavors

October 2013

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Picture Story Grand Palace

Grand Palace sans the

monarch

The Grand Palace is a building complex situated in the heart of Bangkok, the capital of Thailand. The palace has been the official residence of the monarchs of Siam and later Thailand since 1782. The complex was the base of the king, the royal court and the government until 1925. The palace situated on the banks of the Chao Phraya River in Phra Nakhon district consists of 218,400 square metres. Its four walls are approximately 1,900 metres long.

24 travel & flavors

October 2013

Leen Thobias

is a renowned photojournalist who has excelled in 360 degree photography

Picture Story Grand Palace

Construction work on the palace began on the orders of King Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke (Rama I), the founder of the Chakri Dynasty. Throughout successive reigns, many new buildings and structures were added, especially during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). After the abolition of absolute monarchy in 1932, all government agencies moved out of the palace. Currently, the palace is partially open to the public as a museum but royal offices are still function there.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Shopaholic Malls in Dubai

Dubai Malls:

Shoppers’ paradise Known as the nucleus of the Middle East, Dubai is one of the world’s best shopping destinations. From traditional to cosmopolitan, Dubai has something for everyone and the Dubai metro takes you to some of them Prashob K P

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Dubai Metro Route Map

Mall of the Emirates

Mall of the Emirates claims to be the ultimate destination in Dubai for shopping, leisure and entertainment. It’s not just a mall but a shopping resort. The mall offers a multilevel shopping experience which features more than 560 international brands which includes department stores, fashion, lifestyle, sports, electronics and home furnishing outlets.

Ibn Battuta Mall

Ibn Battuta Mall has the distinction of being the world’s largest themed shopping mall. Designed in honour of Ibn Battuta, a famed Arabic explorer, locals and tourists can enjoy a shopping experience that is also historically informative. The mall is divided into six courts, each an architectural reflection of a region that Battuta has explored. There are 275 shops, 50 restaurants and 21 cinemas to give you an idea of the Mall’s size.

BurJuman Centre

It’s the home of high end fashion which showcases the best brands like Saks Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Valentino, Dolce and Gabbana, Versace, Fendi, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Just Cavalli, and many more. BurJuman is the height of shopping luxury in Dubai. Besides the exclusive luxury brands, there are some ready to wear items on offer from brands like Guess and DKNY. There are two parts to the mall, the old and the new. The old part exhibits more expensive brands.

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Located on the waterfront, Deira City Centre is known for its friendly service. It’s a great place for jewellery with 33 dedicated stores. There are over 350 stores with a diverse range of merchandise. The Deira City Centre Metro Station is on the red line of the Dubai Metro.

The Dubai Mall is the region’s premier shopping, lifestyle and entertainment destination. With an impressive array of leisure pursuits, this is the ultimate, cutting-edge shopping experience. The Dubai Mall is home to every major fashion brand in the world. Adorned with a 440,000 square feet Fashion Avenue, which is recognised as the largest collection of fashion brands under one roof in the world and is set to become the fashion capital of the world.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Luxury on Wheels Golden Chariot

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Tony William

he purple coloured Golden Chariot could be your mode of transport if you like to recall how the Maharajas travelled in the past in sheer luxury and royal comfort. A brainchild of Karnataka Tourism, the luxury train covers tourist destinations of Karnataka, Goa and Kerala. Flagged off by former President Prathibha Patel, the Golden Chariot boasts of 18 thematic coaches designed to give you the royal experience in your own personal

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October 2013

kingdom. The 44 cabins, inspired by the Mysore and BelurHalebeedu schools of art and architecture, are fully equipped with modern amenities like two specialty restaurants, the lounge bar, spa, gym, conference hall, Wi-Fi connectivity and satellite television. Named after the World Heritage Stone Chariot in Hampi, the

hospitality service on the train is handled by the Mapple Group. Inspired by the leading luxury travel trains in India like the Maharaja Express with

In the olden days, the monarchs had the luxury of travelling in highly decorated chariots with a royal crew at their beck and call. Today, the Golden Chariot, an initiative of Karnataka Tourism, promises you a royal journey across South India

Luxury on Wheels Golden Chariot

The interiors of a cabin pan Indian itineraries and the Palace on the Wheels initiated by the Rajasthan Tourism, the Golden Chariot has evoked interests in the luxury travel world in a short span of time. The coaches in the Golden Chariot, the first luxury train in South India, are named after the dynasties that ruled Karnataka, including Kadamba, Rashtrakuta, Hoysala and Shatavahana. The facilities in the cabin include twin beds, night stand, built-in writing desk, a tiny wardrobe and a plasma television. The large attached bath has a shower with hot water along with other essentials like towels and toiletries. Moving on to your cabin, a large clear glass window right above the bed with a thick curtain ensures a splendid view of the surrounding areas. Two specialty restaurants, Nala and Ruchi, are awaiting you. To enhance your culinary experience, guests can tuck into Indian cuisine or try out various continental dishes too. One of the best features of the luxury train is that you get a menu that is unique and authentic to the place you’re travelling in. At Madira the Lounge Bar, you could free your soul with the well stocked drinks even as you enjoy performances by local artistes. The spa and the gym ensure that your body stays fit. Give your body a treat of

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soothing Ayurvedic massage. Come to your cabin. Silk bedspread hand-woven by local artisans decorates your bed. A conference coach is also there in case of business meetings onboard. Guests can choose from two packages called Pride of the South and the Southern Splendour. Pride of the South The eight days and seven nights trip takes you around Bangalore, Kabini, Mysore, Shravanabelagola, Belur, Halebeedu, Hampi, Badami, Pattadakal and Goa, through the zenith of South Indian art and architecture. Guests can either choose city visit or eco-resort experience option that includes an eco resort tour, organic farm, herb garden tour, pottery session, Indian village games and bullock cart rides. On the second day, you get the opportunity to visit the majestic Mysore Palace and experience a jungle boat ride in Kabini spotting wild animals. Srirangapatna is the next place of visit followed by the architectural wonders of Hassan and Sharavanabelagola. On the fifth day at Haspet, you can watch the Virupaksha Temple, Queens’s bath, elephant stables, local crafts bazaar, Royal enclosure, Hazara Rama Temple and the Vittala Temple (The Stone Chariot). At Badami,

watch the splendour of Badami caves and Pattadakal. The Pearl of the Orient or the Tourism Paradise-Goa awaits you on the seventh day of your visit. After a short sight-seeing, check out the churches of Old Goa. A sumptuous lunch awaits you at Majorda Beach Resort. On the last day in Bangalore, you can have breakfast onboard the train before a royal farewell reminding you of the old period with the entire crew lining up to say goodbye and to invite you back for yet another majestic journey. Southern Splendour After the royal traditional Indian welcome at the Yeshwantpur Railway Station, platform number six, the Golden Chariot will take you to Chennai, Mamallapuram. At Mamallapuram, you will have a guided tour of Five Rathas Temple, Shore Shiva Temple and the caves. If you’re bored with the ancient stuff, the Golden Chariot will take you to Puducherry where you can stroll through the pristine beaches. On the third day, a tour of Auroville Ashram and Matrimandir is a part of the package and at noon, guests can visit the famous Aurobindo Ashram, French town and have shopping. On the fourth day, you can visit the Ghats and the famed Brihadeeshwara Temple

The hospitality team at ‘The Golden Chariot’ welcoming guests at Thanjavur. A visit to the Madurai Meenakshi Temple on the fifth day is a treat for guests. Your dinner is made special with live classical music and on the sixth day, you get the opportunity to witness sunrise at Kanyakumari followed by a visit to the Padmanabha Palace. By noon, you have the opportunity to visit the Kovalam Beach in Kerala. A special cultural show is

also arranged at The Taj Green Cove, Kovalam, along with dinner. Alappuzha welcomes you on the seventh day. A journey to Alappuzha is incomplete without a houseboat ride. A boat ride followed by lunch at Punnamada Resort is also a part of the package. The next leg of the trip is Kochi where a visit to the old churches and Jew Street would make you fall in love with this place. On the

Interiors of the restaurants

final day, you will have the breakfast onboard followed by a farewell by the entire crew at the Yeshwantpur railway station. A trip with the Golden Chariot is indeed fit for a king because you find yourself falling deeply in love with the charm of South India’s hottest destinations and it certainly is a visit you’re least likely to forget in a lifetime.

Thus Spake the shots Dhanushkodi

lmost 20 km away from the sacred town of Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu stand the remnants of a city, caressed by the waves of the mighty Indian Ocean and an enervated Bay of Bengal. Red bricks scattered over the sand led me to the debris where the city Dhanuskodi once existed. The city was important due to its proximity to Sri Lanka located almost 29 km away in the Indian Ocean. Dhanuskodi was hit by a cyclone in 1964, described as one of the fiercest in the 20th century. The waves which almost grew seven metres swallowed the whole city. After the calamity, the place was declared a ghost town and now it is occupied by fishing folk. Hindus consider this land to be holy owing to the presence of the bridge Ram Sethu. According to the Hindu mythology, the bridge to Sri Lanka was built by Lord Ram when he and the monkey army embarked on a mission to rescue Sita who was abducted by the Lankan Emperor Raavan.

Glimpses of Dhanuskodi,

a forgotten city

Text & Photographs: Jose Jacob

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Travel Blog Jodhpur

A journey through

Blue City

Jodhpur, previously known as Marwar, borrows its name from Rao Jodha, the chief of Rathore Clan who founded Jodhpur in 1459. The climate is extreme, dry and harsh there, the typical hot desert weather. The best season to visit Jodhpur is between October and March 36 travel & flavors

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Richi Mohanty

e know that Jaisalmer is called the Yellow City because most of the construction there is with the yellow Jaisalmer stone. Thus, the city got its yellow colour and the name. But Jodhpur does not have any magical stone that is blue or turns blue. They use plain blue paint to make the city the colour it is. But why? Now many have wondered why these houses were painted blue. It is believed that the blue houses mark the houses of the Brahmins living in the city. Considering this logic, many cities would have turned blue, especially the religious centres in India but it did not happen. Some say that the Brahmins did it to symbolise the holy waters that are missing in the city. But all these are only conjectures and the reason is still unknown. Nonetheless, the city is called the Blue City and is a beautiful sight from the fort. Now, I seem to be skipping ahead, so I’ll trace my steps back. Jodhpur, previously known as Marwar, borrows its name from Rao Jodha, the chief of Rathore Clan who founded Jodhpur in 1459. The climate is extreme, dry and harsh there, the typical hot desert weather. The best season to visit Jodhpur is between October and March. There are many ways to arrive in Jodhpur, if you prefer to fly; the airport is only 5 km from the main city. Direct trains are available from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata otherwise you may take a train to Jaipur and travel from there on. Jodhpur is also well connected via roads and if you are travelling short distances, car or RTDC buses are very efficient. Within Jodhour, you may hire a taxi or travel via autorickshaws. We were traveling from Jaisalmer and thus we took a bus. So we arrived in the city looking for the RTDC hotel we knew of from the bus stand. After a good night’s rest, we started a little late in the morning slowly moving through the breakfast the hotel so beautifully arranged for us. Being the rubbernecks we were, we made a list of what to see, so that we don’t miss out on anything. The most important things to see in the city are Umaid Bhawan which is now a museum and hotel and the beautiful

Photo courtesy: Akhil Raveendran

Travel Blog Jodhpur

A Mehrangarh Palace guard

A view of the ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort

Mehrangarh Fort. The Umaid Bhawan was a pleasant visit and all of us were more astounded by the vintage cars rather than the palace itself. The palace was constructed in the 20th century to provide employment opportunities to people during a famine. But the Mehrangarh Fort was beautiful. The fort on a hill was constructed in 1459 when Rao Jodha founded the city. It is one of the largest forts in India. One has to cross seven gates to reach the inner lanes of the fort. As we arrived within the fort, the decorations, the carving and the entirety of the fort took us by surprise and we were speechless. The long travel was worth for just a glimpse of the fort. Within the fort itself, the Moti Mahal or the Pearl Palace has the royal throne of Jodhpur, the Sringar Chowki. Slowly and steadily, we reached the topmost point allowed to the visitors. Now if I said that the view from the Jaisalmer fort was brilliant, then I’ll add that the view from this fort was striking.

The windows were aligned at different angles colouring the city in shades of blue, a pretty trick by the sunlight. The fort lends an identity to the place by being architecturally marvelous. It breathes grandeurs and elegance in one instant. For whatever is worth it, do not miss to spend time within the fort. There is also a museum within the fort complex that lets you know the history of the place and depicts the story of that era. To the left of Mehrangarh Fort lies the Jaswant Thada, built up of marble. It is a 19th century royal cenotaph built to commemorate Maharaja Jaswant Singh II of the Rathore Clan. The marble sheets are carved intricately, an architectural marvel in itself. We spent some lazy hours lying on the steps to the inside tomb directing our architecturally trained eyes at each detail. The other palace that we missed out was the Rai ka Bag Palace, constructed in 1663. It is situated near the Raika Bag Palace railway station.

A tree in full bloom at Jodhpur fort

Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel

After the architectural marvels, we were rushed by the bus bookings to jump into our next mission, shopping. Every place has its own specialty and Jodhpur has streets full of these specialties. You can buy bandhini, jootis, antiques, leather products and spices. There are different streets like the Tripolia Bazaar known for its handicrafts and textiles, Sojati Gate for its tie and dye, Nai Sarak for leather and mocha bazaar for lac bangles. After a long pleasure trip in these streets, we returned to our hotel to pack our bags and start for the next destination. While in Jodhpur, we do not miss out on the exquisite cuisine that is on offer, the most popular item being the kachori with the spicy chutney. The Janta sweet home and the Jodhpur sweet home have varied kinds of kachori to offer. Along with kachori, we also tried different chaat items known for the fresh spiciness. The eating ended with mirchi bada

which was as spicy as it could get. To top the meal, we all had lassi with dollops of butter in it. What we missed out was the Kite Festival which is an International festival usually in January around the Makar Sakranti time. The festival is for three days and has kite fliers from all over India participating in the competition. It is held at the Polo Grounds in Jodhpur.

Travel Tip Jodhpur may still be sunny in October and November in the daytime, so do protect yourself from the sun to avoid excess tanning and carry sunglasses or hats/caps. Carry or purchase a lot of water on the way to keep yourself hydrated and since there is a lot of walking to be done, do not hesitate to take breaks and munch a delicacy.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Floral fantasy lavender gardens

When lavenders bloom 40 travel & flavors

October 2013

Lakshmi Narayanan

he lavender farm in the beautiful Lot valley near Provence, France, is fascinating, charming and charismatic. The endless rows of blooming lavenders with a fragrance are indeed a sight to be watched and enjoyed. Tourists rush to this valley just to catch a view of the mesmerising beauty of lavenders, widely regarded as the essence of Provence every year. The lavender gardens sprawling hundreds of acres are located on the high plateau around Sault, at the foot of Mont Ventoux and around Apt and Gordes. Lavenders bloom between the last week of June and August, the time of its harvest. The peak time is early July, but it depends

on the rainfall. Another attraction of Provence is the presence of sunflower fields along with lavenders. On the way to Sault lavender fields, one passes through the village of Simiane la Rotonde, a picture-perfect delightful hamlet with lavender fields at its base. It provides an ideal view of the swathes of violet, blue and purple floral carpet and is the best for floral photography. Besides the lavender fields, those who visit this place can watch lavender farms and distilleries and can attend lavender festivals at Sault and Valreas. The Lavender Museum documenting the history of the cultivation of lavender in Provence is another destination here.

How to get there: Provence has two major airports: Marseille-Provence and Nice-Côte d’Azur.

Road to Sanctity Lourdes

Sanctifying experience at

Lourdes Lourdes in France is one of the holiest places of worship for Christians around the world. The miracle that the Virgin Mary appeared before a young peasant girl 18 times at the place continues to attract believers Savithri S Iyer

n the 21st century where technology is the backbone of society, stories of miracles may not appeal to the gen next. Coming to Lourdes is an experience beyond your wildest imagination and you would most likely be awed by it. Located in the Midi-Pyrenees

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region of southwestern France, Lourdes has seen a confluence of pilgrims since the mid-19th century. Today, it has become one of Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most visited towns and one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular pilgrimage centres. It is certainly no mean feat in the continent that boasts of the presence of the Vatican.

The Tale of 18 Visions The story of Bernadette and the Virgin Mary is so popular and so much a part of lore that no one really is sure what actually transpired when the Immaculate Conception is believed to have appeared before a young girl called Bernadette Soubirous. According to a popular legend, from February 11,

1858, the Immaculate Conception or the Virgin Mary appeared to the 14-year-old Bernadette in a series of visions at a grotto near the Gave de Pau River. When Bernadette recounted her visions to the higher authorities, despite initial skepticism, public interest grew leading to the initial pilgrimages to the spot. Stories of healing powers of the spring waters further accentuated the narrative of Bernadette, resulting in an increase in the public interest for Lourdes. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, as it is known today, includes the Catholic shrine

dedicated to the apparition that appeared before Bernadette and the famed spring, waters of which are believed to possess healing powers. The land owned and administered by the Roman Catholic Church consists 51 hectares including 22 different places of worship with six official languages being spoken- French, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and German in addition to English. The domain is open throughout the year and is fully active on religious holidays. The Crypt The Crypt was one of the

first churches to be constructed following the tales of the vision. The construction of the church was overseen by Bernadetteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s father along with AbbĂŠ Peyramale and Mgr. Laurence. The nave is small but the noted features include the huge pillars which support the weight of the Upper Basilica constructed atop it. The Crypt can be accessed along a corridor whose entrance features a large statue of St. Peter holding the Keys of the Kingdom of Heaven. The walls of the corridor and the nave are lined with small marble plaques known as ex voto plaques.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Road to Sanctity Lourdes

Upper Basilica The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception is known widely as the Upper Basilica and was the second of the churches to be completed. It also features a series of stained glass windows depicting various events in the history of Lourdes and the exterior is dominated by a 70-metre spire and the entrance features a mosaic depicting Pope Pius IX who defined the dogma of the Immaculate Conception in 1854. Church of St. Bernadette The Church of St. Bernadette was built in 1988 and is located at the spot where Bernadette saw the 18th vision. It is a modern building with little adornment and was designed to allow as much natural light as possible into the nave. Lighter colours have been used to make it brighter than the Underground Basilica and the church was designed by Jean-Paul Felix. The Church of Bernadette has provision for around 5,000 worshipers. Chapel of Reconciliation The Chapel of Reconciliation earlier occupied a site which was more remote at the entrance of the Upper Stations of the Cross but was moved many years ago to a more prominent site which was earlier known as Accueil Notre Dame near the Crowned Statue, facing the Esplanade. It is different from other churches there because no masses take place here. Priests from different nations observe a duty roster which means that any devotee coming here can confess to a priest who will hear them out in their language. The chapel which attracts those who wish to pour out their grief in their mother tongue has large numbers of devotees daily.

The night view of Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary at Lourdes,

Grotto The Grotto is a total contrast when compared to the grandness of Rosary Square and the various basilicas. This historic spot where Bernadette had her visions is quite simple and stark. The recess of the Grotto is undecorated except for a plain stone altar and a lectern so that Mass can be said regularly. The spring dug by Bernadette can be seen at the end of the Grotto and is today protected with a glass cover. Pilgrims can enter the Grotto and it is traditional to touch the rocks under the statue. Over time, the Grotto has been altered so much that today it is not clear exactly how the original configuration of the Grotto looked like. Lourdes has become one of the most visited pilgrimage centres in France and has brought in a confluence of visitors annually. A visit to the places where the young Bernadette is said to have had her 18 visions, experiencing the sanctity of the region would be blissful.

Culinary Tales Tibetan cuisine

Truly

Authentic

W Noodle Photomein

Gyuma (Mincemeat sausage)

Jenny Thingshung

hen the Dalai Lama was served only vegetables in his first official banquet abroad, he was compelled to say, “I’m a Tibetan Monk, not a vegetarian.” I imagined his light rhetoric would have broken ice on the table. When you walk into any eatery in Majnu Ka Tilla, a Tibetan refugee colony in the northern part of New Delhi, your nostrils will be attacked by a strong aroma of meat. Majnu Ka Tilla offers you the most authentic Tibetan and Chinese cuisine. Traditional Tibetan food uses roasted barley flour, yak meat, milk, cheese, yoghurt, butter and varieties of vegetables which create balance on the plate. Something that you can order in Majnu Ka Tilla without even looking at the menu are Momos which are popular Tibetan delicacies, eaten steamed or fried and is best consumed piping hot with soup or hot chili sauce. Whenever I am here, I make it a point to have Gyuma (Tibetan blood sausage) mixed with blood, mincemeat and flour. This is a cuisine worth eating for every non-vegetarian and worth trying for anyone else. It is not very spicy and is sautéed with pepper and onion. What I like about Thenthuk (Tibetan Pasta soup) is that it sits easy on your stomach. It is a dish that you can have every other day without worrying about your balanced

Gyuma (Tibetan blood sausage) October 2013 travel & flavors

Culinary Tales Tibetan cuisine

Beef Chilly Dry

Majnu Ka Tilla offers you the most authentic Tibetan and Chinese cuisine. Something that you can order in Majnu Ka Tilla without even looking at the menu are Momos which is a popular Tibetan delicacy

Majnu Ka Tilla’s main gate

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diet as it has everything in it. It is a milky soup mixed with different vegetables like capsicum, cabbage and mushroom, and chunks of meat (Buff/ Pork/ Chicken). I loved the soup. It gives me a feeling of wholesomeness. Similarly, Thukpa, noodles served in soup mixed with various vegetables and meat, is a great eat. Another favourite of mine apart from Gyuma is Shaptak (Dry Fried Buff). It is a spicy sliced buff and sautéed with onion and capsicum. It is best served with Tingmo (Tibetan steamed bread). For those who are adventurous enough to try something different and exotic, I would recommend Cheley, a Tibetan style sautéed Buff tongue. I have tried a couple of times, I loved it. Some love spicy dishes with Butter Tea but I loved mine with the nonalcoholic fruit beer which is different and stronger than the usual fruit beer. And before you say adieu to this place, take out time to check out the lovely antique shops, Tibetan curios and jewelleries, bookshops dominated by Buddhists related literature, Korean CDs, exotic arts and crafts shops.

Exploring Flavors The Paul

Culinary delights at

The Paul

Having made a spectacular debut with the Kumarakom Lake Resort, The Paul gives nothing short of the best experience for the guests T&F Correspondent The Paul Hotels and Resorts Group has already carved a niche with its first venture-Kumarakom Lake Resort- at Kumarakom, Kerala. Now, branching out into the luxury hotel segment with The Paul, Bangalore, the group provides luxury of a different kind. Having made a spectacular debut with the Kumarakom Lake Resort,

The Paul gives nothing short of the best experience for the guests. Ideally located at Domlur, near the commercial hub, Koramangala, The Paul promises a luxury stay with utmost comfort. The Paul has three elegant restaurants –the Sidewalk Café, Masala Dani and Vembanadwhose ambience and elegance are winning hearts of those coming here.

Travel and Flavors team tracks the three restaurants and the delightful spread on offer. The Sidewalk Cafe Inside the lobby, surrounded by bits of greenery and flowing water, you feel as though you’re eating out in the street with dark lamp posts, unfinished wooden roofs October 2013 travel & flavors

Exploring Flavors The PAul

anut

th pe ay wi t a s en Chick and beautiful paintings on adjacent walls. The sumptuous international breakfast is sure to set your tummy growling and your mouth watering. Wouldn’t it be cool to be serenaded by a musician playing the piano as you tuck into your dinner? You get to enjoy your dinner with the classical piano played by a professional in the background at Sidewalk Café with a choice of a la carte delicacies from Europe. Masala Dani How about a dinner with the cuisine of the Mughals? Not only the menu but the ambience also transforms you into the Mughal era. Paintings from the Mughal era adorn the walls of Masala Dani. Imagine ordering the royal Mughlai cuisine while sitting in the regal chairs resembling the Mughal era and with ghazals playing in the background.

Mexican style chicken cilantro soup

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Vembanad The finest cuisines from the coastal areas of Kerala await you at Vembanad restaurant. Situated on the fourth floor of ‘The Paul,’ Vembanad has the typical Kerala ambience and style. A traditional Nilavilaku (brass lamp), richly worked wooden ceiling, wood paneled walls, teakwood furniture and terracotta-tiled floors add to the ethnic feel. “Every month,

sauce

one of the restaurants has a food promotion event,” says Executive Chef Biju Mohamed.Here are some of the dishes that were featured for team T&F Mexican style chicken cilantro soup The Mexican style chicken cilantro soup is basically tomato and coriander flavored spicy chicken broth served with tortilla chips. The dish brings alive the authentic tongue tickling delicacies of Mexico and is truly exquisite. Chicken satay with peanut sauce Thai cuisine is one of the most popular of the Asian cuisines and it is brought to life with the restaurant’s Thai style grilled chicken supreme skewers served with the chef’s secret marinade and peanut sauce. Pan seared royal bassa with saffron rissotto and dill lemon butter The sight of Vietnamese royal bassa pan seared and served with creamy saffron rissotto, greens and dill lemon butter sauce will water your mouth. Thyme and garlic rubbed grilled chicken The Thyme and garlic rubbed grilled chicken breast with sauté potatoes and green pepper jus is pan grilled airline chicken breast rubbed with thyme and garlic served with

ffron th sa mon i w a ss dill le al ba d roy sotto and e r a e ris Pan s

Thy

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rille me g

About the chef Biju Mohamed has 17 years of rich experience in the industry. He started his career at the Taj Group of Hotels and served in many prominent hotels, including Abad Hotels, Hyatt Regency in Dubai and Kumarakom Lake Resort. He was the Executive Sous Chef for the Vice President of UAE prior to joining The Paul. Under the guidance of Biju Mohamed, Vembanad restaurant at The Paul has won the Best Kerala (Cuisine and Hotel) The Times Food and Nightlife Award, regarded as the Oscars in the food industry, thrice. The homemade fish curry is his signature dish.

“I follow the recipe used by my mother for preparing it,” he says. “In the European cuisines, I have specialised in pastas and also the hot kitchen meat, chicken and fish,” he adds. He usually prefers to do experiments in the Mughal cuisine with a little bit of Mediterranean food like Middle Eastern Kebabs. Try out these dishes at Vembanad: Meen Nirachathu, Erachi Pathiri, Chemeen MuringakaiTheeyal, Chemeen and Koonthal Ularthiyathu, Thalasseri Chicken Curry and The Alleppey Fish Curry with Appams.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Key’s Destinations Kenya

Kenyan wildlife jaunt Out of the mist she appeared but before Jared could even start his Land Rover, she ascended the very tree under which the vehicle was parked. He cautioned us, “Don’t move, don’t even breathe Karnika E Yashwant

agnificent pictures of wildlife in Kenya convinced me that an open vehicle safari is the ultimate in connecting one’s soul with nature. I would gladly trade 10 days of work to be able to smell, hear, see and absorb the offerings of the pristine African bush forest! April is the perfect time to take a trip through the vegetation and landscape of Kenya and it presents excellent opportunities to photograph a large variety of birdlife species. Excellent wildlife sightings were predicted at Maasai Mara Game Park Reserve. For best chances of seeing a bit of action, we were advised to plan our safari either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The Indian Embassy is in Nairobi, the capital city of Kenya and thus, I launched my South African

Wildebeest and zebras at the Maasai Mara Park Safari with this safety net. With two other vacationers, I stayed in one of the good hotels in Nairobi. We used a rented car to Maasai Mara Game Park Reserve where we enjoyed shooting with our cameras. I was delighted to see colourful birds on very tall trees and captured their beauty in my camera. Our guide is a local man by the name Jared. He was trained to interpret animal behaviour and movement, and thus, communicated this information to us. Jared gave us three golden rules on participating in an open vehicle safari. One, do not stand as this gives the predator the opportunity of identifying you as a human being. Two, do not litter or smoke. Three, do not touch or grab overhanging branches as these often

posses needle sharp thorns typical of most indigenous Acacia species in Southern Africa. Soon, we saw a large herd of Impala taking shelter under the canopy of trees with broad leaves, utterly motionless, while their dainty triangular mouths moved almost noiselessly as they chew the cud. Jafred told us that the various other antelope species, such as kudu, bushbuck, nyala and duiker prefer to stay well concealed in the various thickets that are available to them. The nocturnal super predators, lion and leopard normally remain active for longer periods in these cooler weather conditions. All of us five guests on the Land Rover were quiet and communicated

with our eyes. Suddenly, as we came around a corner, there appeared in front of us a female leopard. The leopard is the hardest one to track, but there it was in front of us! Zooming in with my camera, I noted the water droplets on her smooth, silky coat that resembled dappled light conditions. As I zoomed on her with my camera, I saw a few droplets glinting on her whiskers as the sunlight shone through them. She moved through the thick undergrowth almost in a ghostly fashion, momentarily freezing to examine the scent particles carried by the wind. Jared told us that leopards when on the move will take advantage of â&#x20AC;&#x153;viewing platformsâ&#x20AC;?, which can be trees, termite mounds or even large

October 2013 travel & flavors

Key’s Destinations Kenya

A couple of giraffes at the park

A lioness walking with her five cubs in the park

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rocks. Leopards and most other predators will often use these vantage points to survey the surrounding area for the availability of prey species and to avoid other predators. As it began to drizzle, we had to away from the sighting and put on the raincoats provided by the hotel. Jared asked a fellow ranger to take control of the sighting, while we temporarily made our way out of the area, a significant distance from the leopardess for safety reasons. When we put on raincoats, we learned from the other ranger that the leopardess was last seen heading in a south-easterly direction which was towards us. After being informed of what had happened, we were distressed. Squawks of birds and shrieks of minuscule tree squirrels on the huge Marula tree where we had sought cover made us know of the coming of the predator. We listened with all intent. Out of the mist she appeared but before Jared

could even start his Land Rover, she ascended the very tree under which the vehicle was parked. He cautioned us, “Don’t move, don’t even breathe.” Almost imperceptibly, he reached for his rifle. Any quick movement might make her launch an attack. Jared slowly raised his rifle. I was telling myself, this would go bad in any way – a leopard’s or a leopard-lover’s nightmare came true. The leopardess was directly overhead standing on a branch and observing the surrounding landscape. She looked into the distance, looked into the Land Rover and promptly jumped out of the tree and carried on as if nothing had happened. From Kakamega, we drove on to Mount Elgon at the boundary of Kenya and Uganda. After a gruelling mountain climb, we concluded our African Safari with fasting and praying, thanking the God for a new lease of life.

Cover Story Cambodian Chronicles

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Kampot Capers! Cambodia with its alluring oriental flavors is a destination that one simply cannot resist. The flavors and the spices of Cambodian Cuisine are exquisite and mouth watering Devanshi Mody

ambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sole celebrity chef Luu Meng propelled Kampot pepper to its international celebrity status since any experience of Cambodia tingles with the quintessential Khmer spice. I arrived at Song Saa Private Island in the right time. The ambience there

was perfect to my liking that I could discover as I stretched on the sofa in my jungle villa. The sky, water and even the enormous day-bed decked with grey cushions on the pooled terrace reminded me of Kampot pepper. My lunch consisting of red pureed pizza like a spread of Kampot pepper on ultra thin bases provided

me the only vibrancy until I glimpsed the misty hills and the sombre sky, offering me a breathtaking view. In the evening, a wooden path winds me to the staggering over water restaurant, Vista. The open-air bar, the wooden deck lined with sleek white sofas, is quite stunning. But the real treat comes in the form of Kampot mocktail (Kampot

Cover Story Cambodian Chronicles

Pizza preparation at Driftwood bar

pepper, fennel, basil, mint, orange and honey). I take a sip of it as I laze on the mighty day-bed-turned-swing decked with soft cushions stationed at the water’s-edge. The rain seems determined to play spoilsport sabotaging my hope of al fresco dining, but the water’s-edge table is almost as good. Though I want to sulk, I don’t get the chance and I drown my sorrow in multiple Coconut Nojitos while the new Chef Christian Hinckley who has worked at Michelin-starred Joël Robuchon’s and Aman Resorts unfolds his creations. My morning breakfast at Vista took place as the sun shone in all its glory and the landscape was floodlit with gold rays and the rainclouds surrendered meekly to his glory. Song Saa, besides employing and empowering the local communities exploits vernacular produce most innovatively through breakfast accompaniments such as ginger tonic and jackfruit compote along with Birscher meusli, date, passion sauce with French toast and coconut pancakes with kaffir lime-strewn mascarpone. Chef Christian is at work relaunching the menu, lightening it and intensifying it with indigenous flavours. The new Spa Menu features sprightly nut-crusted salads; quinoa, cous and watermelon consommé with cardamom & vanilla sorbet and suppers comprise carrot and courgette spaghetti in smoked aubergine purée finished with coconut and lemon grass panna cotta. At my final supper there, chef entertains me with tales as smooth as his customised amok of varietal mushrooms. And if I’d snubbed Khmer desserts, Chef’s fine-tuned revisions smarten taro and moong dal pudding make up for it. His petit pots au chocolat is truly exquisite. Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra’s So Spa which fuses French colonial and contemporary Khmer pampers me just fine. The Sofitel has translated its culinary tradition into 3-course spa menus comprising starters, mains and dessert. Start with Khmer massage, have Clarins facial for mains. Dessert must be at très Parisien Chocolat seemingly sculpted in chocolate and a mocha latte to wash it all down, with a dash of chocolate macaron. One has to be quite hungry for Hachi’s splendid Japanese cuisine consisting of spruce sushi, wasabi and

Driftwood bar at dawn

Unique Cambodian pepper

A speciality prawn dish from Cambodia

ginger. The seaweed salad and deep fried tofu are quite impressive so are the Do Forni. The temptations of the rich dark chocolate and fresh strawberry toppings that you can devour over Cambodia’s most profuse breakfasts at La Coupole cannot be ignored. If you’re wondering what the Governor’s House by AG denotes, it’s Alain Garnier. He offers the most original rooms in all Phnom Penh. The Jackie Suite boasts of a desk Churchill sat. If you need a wake-up call so that you can tuck into the delicious homemade breakfast yogurt, it might not come but Rachmaninov’s Piano Concerto II might wake you up from the deep slumber you’ve had in exquisite Belgian linen. Next, I check out the justlaunched Park Hyatt Siem Reap where a sculpture of a swaying damsel greets me. I’m led to the hotel’s classy bar-loungelobby the Living Room, one of the most alluring bars I’ve ever seen. The bar with dusky wood and striking pink panther armchairs along with elephant artifacts rested on artificial ivory tusks against a pomegranate pink backdrop is indeed a visual treat. The mirrored ceiling sculpted in waves shimmers like an overturned river. Perhaps, it’s the pink champagne you’re served here, you feel as if you’re seeing the world through rose-tinted glasses. Supper is at the elegant Dining Room overlooking a superb black central courtyard from which an abundant banyan tree spouts out, admired by fire-coughing earthenware. Signature Bill Bensley swings on which you can dine. Khmer cuisine here is vital, flavorsome and is merciful on the palate and the innards. That’s until German Chef Martin unleashes his fantastic chocolate fondant. Next night it’s more Khmer cuisine, except for the pumpkin soup which is amongst the best you’ll have and is Chef Martin’s speciality to be

had with outstanding rye bread. But I don’t renounce my Khmer winter melon soup or wok-fried green veggie mains. There’s pandam leaf or pumpkin crème brûlé but I demand the Glass House’s amazing homemade ice creams, including punchy coffee of Cambodian coffee, velvety palm sugar and silken honeycomb encrusted with brocade-textured honeycomb. For Siem Reap’s epicurean Khmer cuisine, it’s Cuisine Wat Dam Nak. French Chef Rivère picks mushrooms from the Angkor parks, fetches fresh fish and hand-picks products, French-style, from select producers. Expect creations of finesse emphasising a couple of distinct ingredients that dance together on the palate. Even banana-chocolate crumble, which I dreaded metamorphosed into a delicacy. We recommend upstairs in the charming converted home with bared wooden rafters and bluerimmed windows. Back in Phnom Penh, I discover a new restaurant that opens daily. This hasn’t diminished crowds at renowned Chef Luu Meng’s fine dining Khmer restaurant Malis. As the busy and elusive chef takes time to escort me around Phnom Penh, its denizens marvel as if I’m conferred greater honour than the visiting New Zealand premier, who is accompanied only by his Cambodian counterpart and he’s not as glamorous as Chef Meng. Malis sustains its following thanks to Meng’s passion, flair and constant quest for originality as he plays around with traditional dishes always seasoned with his humour ticklish like the Kampot pepper to which he legendarily brought international fame. Asked about his phenomenal success, Meng winks, “We make food, others make numbers.” But the numbers are endless- if Malis is cordoned off fortress-like, it’s because the King is dining there, if not international heads

October 2013 travel & flavors

Cover Story Cambodian Chronicles

Governor’s House of state. Mali’s sister restaurant Topaz exemplifies the other aspect of the Cambodian experiencethe French connection. A French chef dispenses traditional French cuisine in contemporary surrounds. Here’s the only place in Cambodia furnishing premium Valrhona in desserts and chocolate served with illy coffee. At just-launched Common Tiger, Chef Timothy Bruyn’s creations are perfection personified. Local ingredients are rarefied into complex constructs so bewildering that it would require a thesis to elaborate the thought that conceived them. Suffice it to say the cuisine is shockingly good and that the 32-year-old

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South African chef has worked at some of the world’s most exclusive addresses, including Song Saa and North Island but feels Phnom Penh enjoys a culinary revolution. Expect the unexpected: tofu so meticulously cubed it seems cut with equipment from an atomic physics lab. And coconut-mango parfait that looks like it belongs in a modern art gallery. Tim’s creative flair, tremendous technique and manic rigour will doubtless make Common Tiger a “destination” restaurant. Brown mastermind Bunleang was 23 when he and his cousins (two engineers, one architect who gained admission to Stanford and a Cordon Bleu chef who makes Cambodia’s best croissants and Danish

October 2013

pastries) launched the first Brown using their piggy bank savings and much initiative. The unassuming Brown boys run an empirein 5 years they’ve seven cafés. Try Palm Sugar frappés until they unveil Kampot Pepper frappés! At vegetarian wonderland Vego Sophea dresses beautifully, Rattana, dresses the menu marvellously with bang-on bagels, whopper wraps, streamlined ethnic exotica or makeyour-own sandwiches, salads, soups, stir-fries, curries- including Kampot, naturally... Rattana has even weaned school children off fast food and has them clamouring for create-your-own-salads. Descend into decadence with brownies soft as a mud bath downed with

fresh strawberry/almond & dark chocolate frappés. Italian restaurant Terrazza has enoteca stocking rarities including Italian wines with German names and deli. No Kampot pepper here, only gold medal-winning olive oils pricier than some wines and aged balsamic vinegar thicker than stupidity. Find fine chocolate at new Chocolate Shop owned by a charming Belgian lady Griet who inscribed Khmer ingredients, including Kampot pepper, spices and indigenous fruit in Belgian chocolate. Incidentally, her son designed the “Cambodian map” chocolate, each province sprinkled with regional spices. No prizes for guessing what Kampot provides!

Cambodiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oriental flavors Cambodia, a country full of architectural wonders and with a culture influenced by Hinduism and Buddhism still marvels the western world T&F Team

he moment you enter Cambodia, the allure and mysticism of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancient history seem to beckon you. Today with a population of around 14.8 million, it is on its way to development. Phnom Penh, the capital and the largest city, is the political, economic

and cultural centre of Cambodia and offers plenty for tourists. Throughout its long and vibrant history, Cambodia has been a source of cultural inspiration and an important religious centre. As you move around, you realise just how much India and her culture have influenced the people of Cambodia. According to a popular belief, Hinduism was brought to

the nation by seafaring merchants and it has strongly influenced the nation and its people. Pearl Of Asia Phnom Penh was once known as the Pearl of Asia and was considered to be one of the loveliest French-built cities of Indo-china during the 1920s. Phnom Penh along with Siem

October 2013 travel & flavors

Cover Story Cambodian Chronicles

Reap and Sihanoukville is a major tourist destination in Cambodia. Founded in 1434, the city is noted for its beautiful historical architecture. While in Phnom Penh, one shouldn’t forget to explore the Royal Place, Keung Preah Bat National Museum, Wat Phnom, Russian Market and the Central Market. An eight-hour journey from Phnom Penh takes you to Preah Vihear, an ancient Hindu temple built during the reign of Khmer Empire in 1962. Preah Vihear has the most spectacular setting of all the 6th century Khmer Empire temples and also bears elements of several architectural styles. Preah Vihear is unique among Khmer temples as it was constructed along north-south axis, rather than the conventional rectangular plan with an orientation toward the east. Angkor Wat Angkor Wat is located 7 km north of Siem Riep and is truly one of the most spectacular temple complexes in the world. The sheer beauty and splendour of the complex along with the serenity of the place is bound to take your breath away. If you’re looking to unwind after spending time at Angkor Wat, then Preah Sihanouk is the place for you. Preah Sihanouk is the coastal province of the kingdom with pristine white beaches and nice hotels to stay in. The province has become one of the best seaside destinations in Asia. With hip and happening nightclubs, the town would get you charged up for the next leg of your journey.

Tourists at Angkor Wat

A local market

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Battambong Battambong is a picturesque location that would most certainly remain in your mind even after you got away from the country. With exotic and stunning natural sights, you wouldn’t know where to begin your exploration. Lying close to the small Sangkae River, Battambong provides a picturesque natural setting. One can see the influence of the French Colonial architecture which is found throughout Cambodia. Stung Treng Stung Treng, a small town in northeastern Cambodia, can easily be described with the word ‘outpost’. Anlong Svay Thom’s Dolphin Lot, Seam Pang Sanctuary, Borey O’Svay, LbakKhoan and a truly spectacular waterfall in Stung Treng Province are the major attractions. A relaxing riverside setting could end up being the perfect description for Kampot. The reason-a stunning panoramic view of Cambodia and Vietnam which can

A floating village on Tonle sap lake be enjoyed from the mountain tops in Kompot makes it quite appealing. Waterfalls, boating and rafting in the river can be enjoyed in the town, and popular attractions include the Kompong Trach caves with their ancient ruins and the durian and pepper farms. The little island of Koh Tonsay can be visited from Kampot by boat and visitors can also enjoy long stretches of golden sand and revel in tantalising taste of the local cuisine. Kampot is an up and coming tourist destination and the city has recently undergone many changes overtime with a number of charming hotels, guesthouses and resorts in the towns of Kampot and Kep while homestays can be found in the rest of the province. The province is connected to the rest of the country and Vietnam by partly unpaved road.

Getting there By Air: Phnom Penh International Airport located 9 km away from the capital city

By Rail: Trans-Asian Railway Network is the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major rail system Pub Street in Siem Reap

By Road: Bus and taxi services available round the clock October 2013 travel & flavors

heritage Destinations Thailand

Thai flavors & splendours Thailand with its rich heritage and cultural backdrop is a tourist destination that will never fade out. Exotic Temples, heritage palaces, quiet beaches and tongue ticking local cuisine make your stay in the Southeast Asian nation pleasurable Savithri S Iyer

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hailand once known as Siam is today the hub of all tourist activities and is at the height of popularity amongst those looking to explore the realms of Asia. With a population of around 64 million of which more than half is essentially Thai, the country is on its way to development and progress. The rapid growth of the economy began between 1985 and 1996 and today Thailand has emerged as a major industrialised nation where tourism plays an important role in the progress. A History of Politcal Unrest Evidences suggest that Thailand had human habitation nearly 40,000 years ago and archaeological excavations in various regions across Southeast Asia indicate that Thailand was quite influenced by the culture and religion followed in India and other Southeastern countries. The fall of the

Khmer Empire in the 13th century resulted in the emergence of various independent states and modern day Thailand was one among them. However, Sukhothai, founded in the 12th century, is generally believed to have been one of the first kingdoms of modern Thailand. A century later, the kingdom of Ayutthaya overshadowed the power of Sukhothai. The fall of the Ayutthaya Empire in 1767 and the subsequent invasion by the Burmese King Taksin led to more changes in the country. The current Rattanakosin Era in Thai history began when King Rama I ascended the throne in 1782 and since then, Bangkok has been the capital of Thailand. A revolution in 1932 led by the Khana Ratsadon group of military officials resulted in the transition of power from King Prajadhipok with

a constitution ending centuries of absolute monarchy. The Second World War saw Japan invading the country. After Japan surrendered, Thailand emerged as an ally of the US and during the Cold War, like many of the developing countries Thailand too faced years of political instability owing to coups by various insurgent groups. Culturally, Thailand has been influenced by various other cultures in South East Asia. The most important traditions of Thailand include a version of Buddhism known as Theravada Buddhism. Bangkok Bangkok, the capital and the largest city in Thailand, is today one of the most important tourist destinations in the country. With a population of nearly 8 million, it

is undoubtedly the busiest city in Thailand. A small trading centre during the times of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, Bangkok eventually became the centre of development and the capital of the country. The heart of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modernization during the latter half of the 19th century, it witnessed many political struggles. The mid-20th century witnessed a rapid economic growth in the city. One of the most visited sites in Bangkok is the Gran Palace, the seat of Thai Royalty and one of the truly mesmerising sights of the city. There are several major Buddhist temples in the city. Some of the famous temples such as the Giant Swing and the Erawan Shrine bear the marks of Hinduismâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep influence on Thai culture. Boat trips along the Chao Phraya and the Thonburi October 2013 travel & flavors

heritage Destinations Thailand

Buddhist temple of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai canal offer a view of some of the traditional architecture and the way of life along the waterfront of the city. The Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Taling Chan Floating Market are amongst the well-known shopping districts of the city. Ayutthaya Your visit to Ayutthaya could be the most sanctifying part of your trip to Thailand. The historic city was the capital of Thailand when it was known as Siam. The city is believed to have been founded in 1359 by King U Thong and soon grew in power. It became the second Siamese capital and the ruins of the ancient city are even now one of the most visited spots in Thailand. Owing to its

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Thai native Lanna performed to worship God

historical significance, Ayutthaya has been proclaimed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city was destroyed by the Burmese Army in 1767 and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historical park is the ruins of the former capital. The pagodas and the ruins of the spectacular city are the places where tourists can see the glory of the ancient kingdom. Chiang Mai And Chiang Rai Chiang Mai is the culturally significant city of Northern Thailand and was one of the important historical cities of ancient times. Today, the city is the capital of the Chain Mai province and is increasingly becoming a modern city with more than 5 million tourists coming here annually. The Thai government

has been promoting the city as a lace where both backpackers and luxury lovers can enjoy a great holiday. The city features centuries old chedis and temples next to shopping malls and luxury hotels. With the presence of a number of luxury hotels which provide world class service, the city is on its way to become an important commercial centre of the country. Chiang Rai is the northern most city of Thailand and rose to prominence after it was established as the capital city during the reign of King Mangrai in 1262. The city offers a number of attractions such as the famed Night Bazaar which is also home to plenty of local cafes with ethnic Thai cuisine. The Boomerang Adventure Park in the

shape of a boomerang the Buddha cave and the Saturday Night Walking Street are all popular attractions in the city. You could also visit the Princess Mother Hall and the Doi Tung Royal Villa which is the residence of the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother. The Doi Tung Zoo could be entertaining for children and the famed Gat of Siam, a location on the Thai-Laos border, is a place that trekkers would like. Pattaya Pattaya is a beach resort city that is quite popular with tourists coming to Thailand. Located on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand, the city with its exotic nightlife over the years has attracted a number of tourists. Pattaya has got plenty of activity oriented tourism such as go-kart racing, golf courses, theme parks and the Elephant Village where ancient ceremonies are performed regularly. The Sri Racha Zoo features animals such as tigers and alligators, and one can check out the ocean world through daily 30 minutes trips at the Vimantaitalay tourist submarine. The Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden is the site of cultural shows with trained chimps and elephants. Other attractions at Pattaya include The Million Years Stone Park, the natural splendours on display at the Khao Phra Bat and the Jomiten

Koh Larn beach in Pattaya

Boats in a floating parade during thecandle festival

Cityscape of Bangkok

heritage Destinations Thailand

Thai noodles with green chicken curry

Beach which offers a panoramic view of the city and its crescent bay. The Sanctuary of Truth and the Thepprasit market are the modernity of Thailand. The former was built to depict the vision that human civilization has followed while the latter has plenty to attract shoppers who would be delighted in bringing home lots of souvenirs. It is widely known for exotic food stalls, branded clothes, electronic gadgets and regular open air foot massages as well. As you walk off from Thailand, whether you like it or not, the two opposing effects you see in each of the cities you’ve travelled to would most likely amaze you. It’s a place where the sanctifying symbol of Buddhism and the splendour of the new era in the east co-exist. With an active nightlife and plenty of shopping opportunities, those who’re out to let loose some steam would be delighted as would those looking for a quiet holiday at one of the beaches, sipping cocktails and getting that well deserved rest. Thailand doesn’t fail to live up to your expectations.

Getting there By Air: The Don Mueang International

Airport and the Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok

By Rail: The State Railway of Thailand has operations throughout the nation. The Thai metro system connects all the major cities in the country

A popular vegetarian dish in Thailand

By Road: The Thai Highway Network provides regular bus services, connecting all major cities.

Thai cuisines • • • • Dessert of strings of egg yolk boiled in sugar syrup

Khanom chin kaeng khiao wan kai refers to Thai noodles with green chicken curry Khanom chin nam ngiao refers to Thai fermented rice noodles served with pork or chicken blood tofu Phak bung fai daeng is a popular vegetarian dish in Thailand Foi thongs is a sweet snack or dessert of strings of egg yolk boiled in sugar syrup

Whiling away time in

Trippin with shweta Kuala lampur

Kuala Lumpur

After dumping our bags and securing a helpful map dotted with landmarks, we set out on foot. Our destination was Merdeka Square or literally the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Independence Square

Shweta Ganesh Kumar

or most people, layovers are about trying to sleep in uncomfortable chairs in noisy airports and grumbling about things to pass the time till they catch their next flight. But sometimes, a layover can be transformed into beautiful memories to keep you company on those days when nothing seems to be going your way. My mother and I were heading back from Cambodia via Kuala Lumpur, the

capital city of Malaysia. Our flight back home was the next day. We had a little less than 24 hours in the city and we had two choices in front of us. One, we could head straight to our no-frills hotel room in downtown Kuala Lumpur and while away time, browsing the Internet. The other we could make the most of what we had and actually try and see the city in the time we had there. Guess which option we chose? October 2013 travel & flavors

Trippin with shweta Kuala lampur

Glimpses of the old and new Kuala Lampur

The Monorail- Kuala Lampurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular form of commutation

Sultan Abdul Samad Building

After dumping our bags and securing a helpful map dotted with landmarks, we set out on foot. Our destination was Merdeka Square or literally the city’s Independence Square. This was where Malaysia’s flag was hoisted for the first time in 1957. Since then, this is where the National Day Parade has been held as well. We had made a conscious decision not to head out to the city’s most prominent landmark - the Petronas twin towers- because there was just not enough time to get tickets to visit the Sky Bridge. But as we stepped out on the sidewalk, we realised that you could not avoid the twin towers even if you consciously decide to do just that. There the towers were, looming in the distance, cutting proudly through the swollen grey clouds, casting a proud eye on the city beneath it. Being the tallest edifice in Kuala Lumpur, it is hard to tear your eyes away from it as you catch glimpses of it even as you pass the most random of alleys. Firmly averting our eyes, we walked down tiled roads, feeling at home. The people of Malaysia look so much like Indians. A lot of the languages spoken back home are spoken here as well though there is a distinct accent and tone that is a give-away to where they are from. It is thrilling to walk through streets and lanes where locals are going about their daily life as if you too are one of them. But what makes us different is how we stop in our tracks as we pass a building so obviously from a different era, while the others walk on without even a sidelong glance. Art deco in style, this building from the 1920s is a cinema house or a theatre. Still functioning, its walls now house glossy posters of the latest movies. But standing beneath its renovated ceiling, it is easy to close your eyes and transport yourself to an age where men in suits and women in gowns arrived in swanky vehicles to watch a talkie. We walk on through a series of arches that are joined seamlessly together. They look worn, they have seen history, but they are still standing as this once colonial town develops into a modern city in its own right. Cars whiz past us. The metro train zooms above us. Commuters are in haste to get their destination by all means possible in this bustling city and I wonder if we become immune to the beauty that surrounds us, just because it has always been there. As everyone tries to outdo the other’s pace, my steps are slowing down. My eyes are feasting on a golden hued building with towers and cupolas. Merging silently into

The Coliseum October 2013 travel & flavors

Trippin with shweta Kuala lampur

Streets of Kuala Lampur

The tiled streets

an incongruous modern background, this structure built in the distinctive style of Mughal architecture dates back to 1915 and is the Old High Court building. Wander a little further and my gaze strays to yet another architectural beauty – The Old General Post Office built in 1896. Keyhole arches and ogee arches beckon me and make me wish I had more time to get a closer look. But I have to walk on. I’m almost at Merdeka Square and within touching distance of the building that was once the best-known symbol of Kuala Lumpur, till the towers took over that particular title. Built in 1897, the Sultan Abdul Samad building is much like an illustrious old grandfather who still has considerable say over his family. He knows that there are young ‘uns who have grown up to be strapping lads within the family but he also knows that he still retains

a position of pride. With arches of many kinds and a 40-metre high clock tower, this sprawling building seems to benevolently welcome the tourists who scurry out of buses of many colours and rush towards it, armed with cameras of different sizes. My mother and I walk slowly across the lush green lawns at Merdeka Square. We take a customary tourist picture and then sit down on the stairs by the flagpole where the Malaysian flag is fluttering merrily in the wind. We stay awhile, reflecting on the buildings we saw and resting as we prepare for the walk back, cutting through traffic and the regular evening crowds. It was well worth it, this layover. For as we head back home, we know that even the glitziest of cities could sometimes have been hiding a soul that has been veiled from public view for much too long. And all you need to lift the veil is a walk.

The Old General Post Office

North east India A driving Experience

Magnificent

Manipur

f the entire visit to the North East and Sikkim, the visit to Imphal was the most challenging as far as the route planning was concerned. My efforts to travel to Imphal using the NH 150A, NH 150B and NH 53 had gone waste due to the horrible road conditions. The only route left to try was the NH 39 from Kohima. Within one-hour of leaving Kohima, I passed Mao, the border town of Manipur. En route to it were monuments that brought home the

Suresh Joseph intensity of the many WWII battles on the Kohima-Imphal sector. As a capital city, Imphal was a disappointment – the streets were being dug up for installing civic amenities and the narrow lanes were dirty. People in respectable jobs and positions are constantly harassed for ‘protection money’. I was told that even the police department contributes to the coffers of the UG. As in Kohima, the St Joseph’s Cathedral in Imphal is the most imposing structure in the city. The Imphal War Cemetery is a smaller

version of the one in Kohima, and was laid out almost in the same manner and contains the graves of over 1,600 soldiers. The Kanglapat had, till 1891, been the seat of power of the Manipuri kings for nearly 2000 years. Till 2004, the sprawling area was under the control of the armed forces. The state symbol of Manipur the Kangla, a mythical dragon-like animal, in the old days symbolised the power of the Meitei kings of Manipur. Two huge Kangla Shas made of bricks were kept in front

October 2013 travel & flavors

North east India A Driving Experience

Loktak lake

The Ima market of the ancient coronation hall of the Manipuri kings. These dragons which were originally erected by Chinese war captives were blown to pieces by the British after their occupation of Kangla Fort in 1891. Iboudhou Pakhangba, who is supposed to have founded the kingdom, and his consort are the reigning deities in the Meithei temple in the immediate vicinity of the Kangla Memorial. There are no idols in the temple. The Govindajee Temple has a marble slab bearing the

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footprints of Krishna. Just outside its sanctum sanctorum were two bells that were cast in England in 1936 . The Nupee Lal Memorial stands testimony to the history of women power in Manipur. The princely state was self-sufficient in grain production prior to Independence. When traders tried to exploit the situation and export grain from Manipur, shortages occurred. The women then banded together under the leadership of three of their brave colleagues, and on December 12, 1939,

protested against the British. The Shaheed Minar was constructed at what was once the evening market, in memory of Tikendrajit the Yuvaraj of Manipur and General Thangal, who were hanged there in 1891 after the defeat of Manipur in the first Anglo Manipur war, by the British. The deed was deliberately carried out in the presence of 8,000 Manipuri women who were dressed in white, to belittle their pride and subjugate them. The Generalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loud laugh, in defiance of the British, just before he was

hanged still seemed to resonate at the memorial. The Meitei or the Ima market is a bustling women-run market that sells handlooms, vegetables, fruits, groceries and other provisions and fish - both fresh and dried. This helped to appreciate the great Loktak Lake , which is closer to the largest freshwater lake (200 sqkm) in NE India. It produced most of the fish consumed in Manipur. That huge expanse of water, complemented by floating phumdis, is the lifeline of a large number of people who live in the area. These floating islands, made of aquatic weeds and other vegetation, soil and organic matter in different stages of decay, presented an interesting sight. The phumdis looked like grasslands and drew nutrients from the soil when the water level was low and float when the water level rose. I was given to understand that there were almost 1000 UG activists living on the lake in makeshift huts on some of these phumdis. Part of the Loktak is the Sangai National Park , also known as the Keibul Lamchang and that covers an area of 40 sqkm. The phumdis in the park are home to the sangai deer, which has special hooves that enable it to walk on these floating grasslands. The love story of Khamba and Toibigi has been immortalised in an annual, month-long festival at a temple in Moirang. The temple is dedicated to the brave, but poor, Khamba and his lady love, the rich princess, Toibigi. The lovers fell prey to the machinations of those who promoted class distinction and they could not get married. The INA War Museum in Moirang is a treasure house of rare photographs, letters, personal belongings of Netaji and many artifacts of WWII. It was on the premises of the museum, the Moirang Kangla, that on April 14, 1944 the Indian Tricolor was hoisted for the first time ever on Indian soil by the INA, which had marched along with the Japanese forces against the British in Imphal. There is also a replica of the INA Memorial in Singapore , with the inscription â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Ittefaq, Itmad, Kurbaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The foundation stone laid by Netaji at that spot was demolished by the British.

One of the bells cast in England

The spot where the Indian tricolor was hoisted first time

Nupee Lal Memorial

October 2013 travel & flavors

Roof Of The World Nepal

Gurkhas, the pride of

l a p e

N T

he credit of creating a united Nepal goes to the great King Prithivi Narayan Shah. Prithvi Narayan Shah was born to Queen Kaushalyavati, the second wife of King Narabhupal Shah, on January 7, 1723. One night when Kaushalyavati had a dream of swallowing the sun, she woke up and narrated the dream to her husband who severely beat her up. In the morning, King Narabhupal Shah told her, “I have beaten you up so that you don’t sleep, for your dream is a very good one, and to make it fruitful you should not have slept.” Seven months after this incident, Prithvi Narayan Shah was born to her. He received education from his caretaker mother Chandrapraväwati whose teaching kept him away from various luxuries. Prithivi Narayan Shah ascended the throne of Gurkha in 1743 at the age of 20 after the demise of his father. He was very ambitious and was determined to be the king of a greater kingdom. At that

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Amit Kishor Subedi

time, Nepal was divided into more than 50 states and only the Kathmandu valley was known as Nepal, a name used for the valley by a few tribes even today. Prithvi Narayan Shah used various tactics for capturing kingdoms, including friendship, marrying the princesses and so on but ultimately he was forced to resort to the age old tactics for achieving his goal. The battle and the capture of Kathmandu were a bit dramatic as the whole valley was celebrating Indrajatra when it was attacked. The Gurkhali fighters surrounded the palace and captured it easily as the kingdom was not prepared for the war. He named the whole unified state Nepal and made Kathmandu the capital. He died in peace at the age of 56 after having successfully unified Nepal, which had been his life ambition. The peace treaty of 1815 which was in favour of the East India Company stated that the Gurkhalis had to give up 1/3 of land to the British after which vital areas

Prithivi Narayan Shah ascended the throne of Gurkha in 1743 at the age of 20 after the demise of his father. He was very ambitious and was determined to be the king of a greater kingdom. At that time, Nepal was divided into more than 50 states and only the Kathmandu valley was known as Nepal, a name used for the valley by a few tribes even today

Roof Of The World Nepal

A portrait of Prithvi Narayan Shah

An Idol at the Royal Palace Complex

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like Kumaoun Gadwall and Darjeeling were annexed by the successor of Prithvi Narayan Shah. After the treaty, a number of youths from Nepal joined the British Indian Army. Even today, there is a battalion of Gurkhas in both British as well as the Indian Army. A popular weapon used by the Gurkhas was the Khukri or the curved knife, and was rampantly in use during the unification and also during the World War. The Gurkhas believed that the weapon had to taste blood during battle, if not the owner would have to inflict a wound upon himself before putting it to its sheath. The Gurkhas are believed to be so brave that, according to a popular saying, “If anyone says that he is not afraid of death, either he is lying or he is a Gurkha.” During the first World War, more than 20,0000 people were involved in the war and nearly 20,000 lost their lives and during the second World War, the number increased to 2,50000 fighting and nearly 30000 losing their lives. The Gurkhas have been involved in quite a lot of major wars since then. Gurkha kingdom It’s been nearly a decade since I travelled to Gurkha. Long ago, when my father took me with him, he showed me the legacy left behind by the legendary Prithivi Narayan Shah. But this time, I visited the place due to the revolt in the Indian region of Darjeeling demanding the Gurkhaland state. Gurkha is about 125 km west to Kathmandu valley and is located on a high hill. The Royal Palace is located on a fortified hill and is an hour’s journey from the Gurkha city. You get a chance

to view the Great Himalayan Range which also includes the Manaslu and Himalchuli Mountains, and panoramic views of the valleys. One of Nepal’s historical landmarks is the Royal Palace building which has some of the most exquisite romantic wood carvings. The temple of the Goddess Gurkhkali on the western side of the palace is also worth the visit. The main attraction is the temple of Guru Gurkhnaath about whom many tales have been told. You also get a chance to see the personal belongings of Prithvi Narayan Shah. There is also a palace which was converted into a museum where you can see the arms and ammunition used by the Gurkhali army during their struggle for unification. Pride of the nation Does killing another human constitute bravery? The records given by school and college textbooks state that the Gurkhas were sources of pride for the nation but the present status of the Gurkhas states the contrary because they do not seem to be part of the progress of the nation. I felt quite sorry while walking on the soil where the brave Prithvi Narayan Shah once walked, having taken the vow that the true Gurkha would never bow his head before anyone. Furthermore, the king who annexed small principalities and never let the British to enter his land has been completely forgotten today. Nearly 238 years after the end of the Shah Dynasty, the state of Nepal has become a Republic. If it wasn’t for a visionary king like Prithvi Narayan Shah, Nepal would have lost her identity and would have been annexed to any of the neighbouring nations.

enchanting kerala Ramakkalmedu

Ramakkalmedu gone with the

wind Ramakkalmedu is a rocky place where the wind is so strong that you would feel as if you were carried away. A fantastic view of Tamil Nadu towns from atop the hills is another advantage of a trip to the highland Tony William Photos by Jose Jacob

ituated at a height of 3,500 ft above the sea level and a part of Karunapuram Grama Panchayth in Idukki, Ramakkalmedu has brought with it a sense of nostalgia. I had visited the place along with my collegemates years ago. Memories of the two buses with students running up the hills, a glimpse of Tamil Nadu from the hilltop and

fighting against the fast blowing wind are all still fresh. I was wondering what changes time might have brought to Ramakkalmedu on my five hours journey from Ernakulam. Even though the journey took more time than the usual, it gifted us the sight of majestic hills and the Periyar River flowing down parallel to our road. We could also

Enchanting Kerala Ramakkalmedu

see numerous landslips at different parts on our way from Karimban to Kattapana. The local people seem to be unaffected by the landslips even though at times it has claimed many lives. Main crops in the area include coffee, tea, cardamom and coconut. Years ago when we went to Ramakkalmedu, we visited the Idukki dam and a viewpoint on the way to Ramakkalmedu. But this time, we couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go anywhere other than Ramakkalmedu as the bus journey took more time than we anticipated. It took almost five hours to reach Kattapana and from there even more time to Thookupalam. From Thookupalam, we took an autorickshaw to our destination. On the way, I was able to locate the church where we had lunch on the last trip. Even before reaching the base of Ramakkalmedu, we could hear devotional songs in praise of Lord Rama. The songs were from the temple at the base of the hill. According to a popular belief, Rama during the search for his abducted wife Sita stood on a rock at the edge of the hill to take a look around. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the origin of the name Ramakkalmedu (Rama-kal-medu). The giant statues of Kuravan and Kuruthi made by the famous sculptor Jinan Balaramapuram welcome visitors to Ramakkalmedu. Located on the hilltop near the temple, the DTPC counter provides basic facilities for visitors. The path to the viewpoint is a narrow passage through the thick bamboo forest. The mesmerising view of small hills around and the fields down began to unveil before us, some were bare and some with greenery. But what surprised us was the absence of the wind, the identity of Ramakkalmedu. Everything else was the same- the greenery, rocks, and monkeys with their babies clinging to their mothers, the view of townships, windmills, the road down and a temple near the fields. A group of students from a college on an excursion were climbing up the rocks just like we did years back, to get a better view. From the hilltop we got a glimpse of Tamil Nadu towns- Cumbum, Theni, Kombe,

Tourists at the rock on which Lord Rama is believed to have set his foot in search of Sita

Statue of Kuruvan and Kuruthi at Ramakkalmedu

Monkeys lazing around Thevaram, Uthamapalayam, Bodinaykannor and Vaiga. The townships seem to expand at a faster pace. Years back when we visited the place, the townships were small. This time, they have become brighter with the new buildings. After spending around two hours on the hilltop, we got disappointed with the absence of wind. Our friend who hails from Kattapana advised us earlier not to keep anything in our pockets as the wind would take it away. But nothing happened as such. With no blowing wind,

Ramakkalmedu remained quite. The average speed of the wind which blows at Ramakkalmedu has been recorded at 35 km per hour making it ideal for windmills. Our trip from the college was actually aimed at watching the windmills at Kuruvithara, a little further from the viewpoint. But this time, we could spot the lazy blades of wind turbines from the base camp itself. Bits of paper and tickets which we had kept in our shirt pockets remained in our pockets as we made our way out of the Bamboo forest to reach the base. October 2013 travel & flavors

Enchanting Kerala Quirky cafes

Cool places for

hangout in

Kashi Art Café and Tea Pot Café are places in Fort Kochi where you feel at ease and they take a place in your heart just because of the space, warmth and love in everything there

A Kochi Serving tea at Teapots Cafe

Customers at Kashi Art Cafe

Chitra Priyadarshini

fter spending an entire day at the seaside, collecting shells and reveling in the beauty of the mighty ocean, if you want to pamper yourself with a steaming cup of frothy coffee and creamy cakes, then look nowhere else. Kashi Art Café and Tea Pot Cafe are there for your service. Kashi Art Café is housed in a modified Dutch house in Fort Kochi and the art gallery was opened in 1977 by Anoop Scaria and Dorrie Younger and become the hub of Kochi’s contemporary art scene as well as the most popular hangout in the area for young locals and tourists. Kashi Art Café is an airy tropical garden café with a restful ambiance. You can get breakfast at any time of the day while lunch includes assorted sandwiches and salads along with a hearty soup. The main item here is the freshly baked cakes and pies which perfectly blend with a special cup of coffee or tea. Teapots Cafe is a delightful place on the main street of Fort Kochi for tea lovers. A perfect and cozy little place for your afternoon tea, it serves your taste buds with 15 different brands of Indian tea and coffee, and pastries . The countless teapots as a design element are maintained by Sanjay and for him it’s all about doing things that will yield contentment. Good things come in small packages, they say and it is likely that these cafés will be etched in the hearts of those who have been here because every one of us can feel the easiness of the space and taste and the love that goes into everything they do and like someone one said: “Coffee is always a good idea.”

enchanting Kerala the tourism director‘s desk

S Harikishore, IAS

“W

Eclectic Kerala

hy would you like to visit Kerala?” - If you ask this question to 10 people, the answer could be in 10 different ways! Some would say, “I like Kerala because of the backwaters or Kerala is serene, evergreen and peaceful.” Others, would say “Kerala is home of Ayurveda and the rejuvenation therapy in the ‘God’s own country’ revitalised me or I could rediscover myself, thanks to the Nature, culture and hospitality of Kerala”. Another opinion could be “the variety of folk arts in the state and the celebrations attract me”. Yes, this land has everything to offer for an eclectic, whether it’s natural beauty, cultural heritage or Ayurveda. And above all, the hospitality of the literate and the peaceful state cajole visitors to explore Kerala again. With pristine beaches, misty hill stations,

luring backwaters, lively wildlife sanctuaries, rich heritage, a variety of art forms, traditional healing, including Ayurveda, and mouthwatering cuisines, Kerala is full of liveliness and energy to attract all. In addition to the various natural as well as heritage attractions, Kerala’s salubrious climate is another attraction that forces tourists to stay in the state for longer durations. It is a delight for tourists to experience monsoon in this land where it first arrives. I request the readers to explore Kerala. There are many unexplored destinations in the state that will rejuvenate the mind. The department of tourism, Kerala, has started an initiative of Village Life experience wherein a tourist can spend half a day/full day in selected destinations to experience how common man lives in the state. Also, it gives insights into the life and culture of the state. More details regarding refreshing tourism destinations of the state can be obtained from our award winning website www. keralatourism.gov.in In 2012, more than 108 lakh visitors came to the

‘God’s own country’, which is seven per cent higher than the footfalls in the previous years. And we expect a 10 per cent increase in 2013 because of new marketing campaigns, introduction of Visa on Arrival at Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram airports from nine countries. The state has an exemplary model of Public Private Partnership for tourism development and we hope that time spent in ‘God’s own country’ would give you special moments. Tourism destination of the month An uninhabited land consisting of 950 acres along the banks of Kabani River, Kuruva Island (Kuruvadweep) in Wayanad captures our mind on the first visit. Cross the river on a bamboo raft to enter the island and watch the flora and fauna of the forest and the Kabani flowing down. Bamboo clusters near the rivulets in the island and twisted tree roots remind you of the Nature in every step. The place is closer to my heart and it is one of the most visited leisure destination of Wayanad. (The writer is the Director, Department of Tourism, Kerala Government)

October 2013 travel & flavors

Mystery n myth Teotihuacan

ruins Elusive Teotihuacan

The mankind has always been ahead of the game when it comes to exploration and discovering the unknown. But there are things beyond manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reach. The mysterious ruins of Teotihuacan continue to perplex scholars and remain a true wonder for those coming to Mexico T&F Correspondent

eotihuacan is a true marvel, an architectural wonder and the kind of setting that you would expect to in an Indiana Jones film. The spectacular pre-Columbian city located in the Mexican Basin, just 30 km away from Mexico City, is one of the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramids of the preColumbian era. It is also steeped in mystery because even today, the origin of this spectral concrete wonder remains a big question. When and who actually built the city and which empire stakes claim

to its origin. The city is also quite significant anthropologically owing to its complex residential compounds, the famed Avenue of the dead and the vibrant murals that are still quite well preserved. Archaeologists believe that the city might have been established around 100 BC and refurbished until 250 AD. It is believed that the city flourished between the 7th and 8th centuries and was one of the largest cities in the pre-Columbian America. Several points regarding Teotihuacan, including the position the city during that time as well as if it was part of a state empire, are still a subject of debate. Even

more baffling for anthropologists is the question as to who actually occupied the city and their ethnicity. Although anthropologists seem to believe that the Nahua, Otomi or Totanic ethnic groups have ancestors from the Teotihuacan city, but evidences linking any of these tribes to the city is bleak. It is a widely visited tourist destination and has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Evidences suggest that the city was abandoned in 700 CE and a discovery points to the fact that the city seems to be heavily referring to astronomy. In his research, scholar Hugh Harleston Jr has brought

October 2013 travel & flavors

Mystery n myth Teotihuacan

Tourists climbing the Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacan, Mexico

light to the construction model of the city which looks a precise model of the Milky Way and also has references to Pluto, Uranus and Neptune all of which were discovered almost a century later. With architectural marvels like the famed Pyramid of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon, evidences relating to the residents’ fascination for astronomy seem to be piling up and yet archaeologists and scholars are far from discovering the truth about the city and its origin. The early history of the ancient city is equally mysterious. Several questions about the foundation of the city still remain. Archaeologists firmly believe that the city was built by the Toltecs but their claim was rebuffed in the wake of new evidences suggesting that the foundation of the city could be attributed to an assortment of settlers from the southern shore of Lake Texcoco. There is also a speculation that a volcanic eruption may have prompted mass migration into the region which makes up the Teotihuacan region. As per records, the earliest buildings at the Teotihuacan dates to 200 BC and the Pyramid of the Sun is believed to have been completed by 100 AD. More secrets surround the political interactions between the people of Teotihuacan and other regions in the Mesoamerica. There are speculations regarding the degree of the Teotihuacan’s influence on other Mesoamerican cultures and scholars are divided on the question as to whether the city had direct military dominance and whether there was any foreign influence on the city. Even today, many questions, including who was responsible for the building

of the city and who actually were its inhabitants, remain. Similarities between the Teotihuacan civilization and the Mayans point to the extent of the former’s influence on the region. Lack of records about the city and its people further triggers speculations and help mystery deepen. Recent evidences suggesting that a revolt or uprising may have led to a war of sorts rule out deaths of people en masse due to external invasions or some fatal diseases. Archaeological evidences near the Avenue of the dead also point to a mass grave which could open the door to more stories about the Teotihuacan decline. Teotihuacan and the barbaric customs followed by its people are as perplexed as the city itself. Excavations have led to the discovery of a series of burial sites, including the tomb of a man who was bound and sacrificed along with a number of precious objects. This may seem to indicate similarity with the Egyptian practice of mummification, but scholars are short of evidences to prove their argument in this direction. Removal of the heart, beheading and burying the victim alive may have been the popular methods of human sacrifice in their society. The Teotihuacan civilization has left massive ruins, but the most vexed of all the mysteries surrounding it is the absence of a specific method of writing. Scholars admit that very little can be stated about the city and its inhabitants who were succeeded by the Toltecs and the Aztecs later on. Although the city is still a huge puzzle to archaeologists, no one can deny the fact that at the zenith of its power, Teotihuacan was regarded as the most powerful city in Mexico.

FLAVORS OF EMIRATES INDIA PALACE

The Mughal way of Dining

Prashob K P

October 2013 travel & flavors

FLAVORS OF EMIRATES INDIA PALACE

India Palace restaurant network in the UAE is a unique place where the Mughlai cuisine is served in the ambience of the Mughal Era. The largest and authentic fine-dining restaurant chain in the UAE, India Palace serves Indian cuisine in a traditional splendour Revealing the ancient culinary secret India Palace brings together the exciting flavours of India using authentic and fresh ingredient. The splendid interiors of the restaurent recreated in the Mughal style catches your fancy as soon as you enter the hall. The main wooden door is carved with minute designs resembling the main passage doors of the ancient times. Live music concerts are conducted on a wooden stage and you are serenaded by soothing music as you eat. The elaborate pictorial presentation and the handcrafted woodwork was executed by artisans from Rajasthan and the wall paintings of Mughal rulers are an added attraction The menu showcases a mix of ancient culinary secrets, long forgotten herbs and exotic flavors. The lingering aroma of deliciously prepared fine and exotic cuisine is formulated by the guarded secret recipes handed down from the great Mughal kitchens. Considering the great variety, I chose Hara Bhara Kebeb, deep fried spinach patti combined with Indian herbs, as starter along with Mulligatwany

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Shorba, flavoured lentil soup and Tarah Tarah Kebab from the tandoor category, which was served in a pan. For the main course, I chose Jheenga Dum Biriyani which was wrapped in a small pot shaped copper bottomed utensil and the top is covered with a half boiled dough. The biryani, cooked on dum on low heat, includes prawns and basmati rice cooked in the Hyderabadi style. This rice delicacy comes with a complementary raita (yoghurt). Murgh makhani, Mutton rogonjosh, Subzi and Makhanwala with assorted breads are also my Palace favourites. And always enjoy a sweet finish with Gulab jamoon with Rabdi and Gajar halwa. In the end, I felt as if I had just attended a king’s feast to my heart’s content. About the chef Amit Ghosh, Corporate Chef, SFC Group, has the courage to introduce new recipes without sacrificing his guests’ pleasure. The training from the Taj Bengal and internationally acclaimed Chef Burgess in the UK provided him with a vast knowledge of a variety of dishes. He has the ability to integrate Caribbean,

Murg makhani

Mongolian, Lebanese and Japanese cuisines. A native of Kolkata, Chef Ghosh worked in kitchens at India’s Taj Hotels for more than two decades, much of that time in Bangalore. Other positions include Executive Sous-Chef (at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi, and at the Taj Bengal Hotel in Kolkata) and Chef de Cuisine at the Taj Lagoon Resort in the Republic of Maldives. During his culinary education in 1987, he was named All India Student Chef of the Year. Now an expert in Indian, modern French, Italian, Mediterranean and Japanese cuisines, Chef Ghosh has trained with international chefs in Britain and Switzerland. Chef Ghosh loves simple food and simple ingredients, expertly combining both elements in his Indian dishes. “Not too much oil or fat, and just the right spices,” result in cuisine that exemplifies modern Indian cooking at its finest.

India Palace specials

Murg tikka shole

Mulligatawny Soup: Vegetable oil is heated in a heavy pot and onions are added and cooked till they’re golden brown. Garlic is added and sautéed for two minutes, lentils along with an assortment of spices such as turmeric powder, coriander and garam masala are added along with water. Carrots and green sliced apples along with ginger and coriander roots are added once the soup is brought to boil. When the lentils are cooked, the soup is strained and is blended after which, coconut milk and lemon juice are added. Murgh Makhani: Boneless chicken pieces are marinated with an assortment of spices for an hour

Chef Amit Ghosh

FLAVORS OF EMIRATES INDIA PALACE

Mutton rogan josh

Prawn biryani

Tarah tarah kebab

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after which, a skewer char is used to grill the chicken pieces in the tandoor. Makhani sauce is prepared with freshly cut tomatoes, green chili and ginger being heated in a pan with vegetable oil and the garam masalas. Water is added and the concoction is brought to a boil. A smooth paste is made of the concoction and chili powder, kasouri powder, honey and salt to taste are added along with cashew paste. After the tomato paste and honey are added along with cream and butter, the cooked chicken tikka is added and is brought to boil. The dish is perfect with rice and any Indian bread. Murgh Malai Tikka: Chicken cubes are marinated with salt, lime juice, hung curd, grated cheese and ginger garlic paste and then garam masala, white black powder, cream and cold milk are added to the chicken pieces and kept aside for an hour. The marinated chicken pieces are then skewered and cooked in a tandoor for 10-15 minutes after which, the chicken is basted. It can be served hot with mint chutney. Mutton Rogonjosh: Oil is heated in a thick bottom pan , garam masala and sliced onions are added and cooked till it turns golden brown. The mutton slices are added to this and sautĂŠed for a few minutes. Ginger Garlic paste along with coriander, chili and cumin powder is added and cooked till the mutton gets dried up. The blanched tomato puree is added and cooked for a few minutes . Curd is whisked and added to the mutton along with more spices and after it is brought to boil, it is served hot with rice or Indian breads. Hyderabadi Nizami Biriyani: Mutton pieces are marinanted. Spices are added along with fried onion, raw papaya and cashew paste and kept aside for a minimum of three hours. Water is boiled in a thick bottom vessel and oil added along with rice and cooked till it is half done. In another thick bottomed vessel, the marinated mutton pieces are spread along with the half cooked rice, mint leaves, coriander leaves and fried onions along with green chilies. The process is to be repeated twice. A little ghee, saffron milk rose water, lime juice and fried onion are added to the rice and the rest of the ingredients after which, it is sealed with a lid with atta dough. It is then cooked for 30 minutes till steam can be seen from all sides and it is cooked on a slow flame for another 15-20 minutes. The biriyani is served hot with fried onions, fresh coriander leaves and boiled egg along with raita.

Waterproof

Travel kit Waterproof gadgets

cameras Last time, Travel Kit featured waterproof mobile phones, a sure safety net while on travel during monsoon. But then cameras, the most essential part of a travellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s backpack, need protection from rain and a couple of waterproof cameras are introduced here Bobins V Abraham

Panasonic LUMIX DMC-FT20

hile mobiles do come with cameras, photography is best left to cameras. Waterproof camera the Panasonic LUMIX DMC-FT20 fits the bill for starters. This point-and-shoot camera with a 16.1 mp CCD sensor features 4x optical zoom with image stabilisation to suppress blur. It has a 25 mm wide angle lens and supports HD video recording. The FT20 is waterproof up to a depth of 5 metres, so you are good for underwater photography and videography. Additionally, it can work in freezing temperatures up to -10 degrees C and is available for Rs 12,990.

Nikon COOLPIX AW110

he Nikon COOLPIX AW110 is waterproof, dustproof and shockproof. An altimeter, hydro-barometer, water depth/altitude logging and GPS are also present within. The AW110 has built-in Wi-Fi enabling you to transfer files and to allow it to be remotely controlled through mobiles. This 16 mp camera with full HD recording features 5x optical zoom with image stabilisation and a 3â&#x20AC;? OLED screen with anti-reflective coating that enhances visibility even underwater. It is available for Rs 16,950.

Exploring the past monuments of love

Love stories etched in Being in love never goes out of fashion and it is the most written and talked about emotion. Literary works talk about it, paintings depict it and monuments remain proof of eternal love. We take you to the five most beautiful monuments which remain epitomes of true love Lakshmi Narayanan

Kodai-ji Temple

Kodai-ji Temple Kodai-ji Temple is located north east of the Yasaka Hokanji Temple at the foot of Higashiyama Ryozen Mountains in Kyoto, Japan. The 16th century temple was built by Nene, the daughter of the then Samurai, for her beloved husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a warlord who earned the reputation as one of the great unifiers of Japan. The temple was built at the spot where Nene and Hideyoshi used to meet and exchange letters. After the establishment of the temple, she became a priestess and assumed the name, Kodaiin Kogetsuni. The main entrance of the temple is adorned with fabulous artworks and lacquer furnishing. It is also surrounded by a memorial hall with carved images of the couple, a mausoleum, a bamboo grove and several formal gardens. One can also spot two tea houses established by Nene to pay tribute to Hideyoshiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love for tea. After Neneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death, her body was also enshrined in the temple which follows the Buddhist tradition.

October 2013 travel & flavors

Exploring the past monuments of love

Sweetheart Abbey Sweetheart Abbey Sweetheart Abbey in Dumfries, Scotland, was built in 1273 by Lady Dervorgilla of Galloway in memory of her husband. Dervorgilla who was deeply in love with her husband John Balliol was broken by the sudden demise of John. She is said to have embalmed his heart and kept it in an ivory casket which she carried around with her all the time. Over the years, her philanthropic activities in memory of her late husband earned her fame. The Abbey complex spread over 20 acres of land with greeneries all around was built in a unique style that includes a large, English church with carved columns, a 92-foot high bell tower and residential quarters. After the completion of Sweetheart Abbey, Dervorgilla spent the rest of her life there. When she died in 1289, she was buried in front of the Abbey churchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high altar, along with her husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s preserved heart. The graceful ruin nestles between the Criffel hills and the shimmering waters of the Solway Firth.

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Mirabell Palace The Mirabell Palace and the garden at Salzburg, Austria, is an ornate mansion built by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau in 1606 for his 22-year-old mistress Salome Alt. After completing the work of the mansion, the couple was blessed with 15 babies, of which 10 survived. Although the massive Salzburg fire of 1818 partially destroyed the mansion, it still remains well preserved. The large marble hall is the main attraction of the mansion. Visitors can see an 18th century staircase replete with carvings, sculptures and ornate stucco work. They can also check out the splendid garden full of topiary, statues and fountains. The mansion and the garden are listed as a cultural heritage monument and a part of the Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg by UNESCO World Heritage Site. Several scenes of the Academy Award winning Hollywood film Sound of Music shot here. This beautiful mansion is known as the Taj Mahal of Austria and today the Palace accommodates the office of Salzburgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BĂźrgermeister (mayor) and the municipal administration.

Mirabell Palace

Exploring the past monuments of love

Taj Mahal

The monument known as the ‘Jewel of Muslim Art in India’ is the finest example of Mughal as well as Persian architecture and today ranks amongst the wonders of the world

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Taj Mahal No tragic love story is complete without talk of the marble mausoleum, the Taj Mahal, located on the banks of the Yamuna River, Agra, India. The monument was built by the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal after her death as an expression of the love he had for her. This palace like monument, known as the ‘Jewel of Muslim Art in India’ is the finest example of Mughal as well as Persian architecture. Built in the 17th century after the death of Mumtaz Mahal, who died after complications in pregnancy, the structure was built entirely from white marble taken to Agra from Rajasthan. Nearly 22000

people labored tirelessly for nearly 20 years to complete its construction work. Tourists coming here would find evidence of the marvelous architecture in the precious gems and diamonds engraved on the inner roof of the building. The tomb of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan is located at the central focus of the complex and long white marble pillars placed at the outer corners of Taj Mahal also add more beauty to this architectural wonder. Today, it ranks amongst the most spectacular wonders of the world and those visiting the Taj are always awed by the sheer aura of this splendid structure which indeed takes your breath away

Coral Castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniqueness lies in the fact that it is completely handmade. Edward worked on it for over 28 years from 1923 to 1351 on the monument until his death.

Coral Castle Coral castle in Florida is Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s evergreen monument of love. The structure comprises megalithic stones formed from coral, and was built by the Latvian American Edward Leedskalnin in the 20th century. The story of the castle is different from the other love stories we have seen so far. Edward Leedskalnin was betrothed to 16-year-old Agnes Scuffs whom he cherished dearly. However at the last moment, Agnes had a change of mind and the wedding was called off. A heartbroken, Edward left his homeland and settled down in Florida where he started works on the construction of the monument for his lost love. Coral Castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniqueness lies in the fact that it is completely handmade. Edward worked on it for over 28 years from 1923 to 1351 until his death. With just a lantern to guide him, Edward who stood just over five feet and weighed mere 100 pounds single handedly carved and sculpted the 1,100 ton of coral rock at night and it is this tragic story that sears the hearts of those who visit the Coral Castle.

Coral Castle

photo of the month

LAKE PLACID & EVERGREEN RAINFOREST: Khao Sok Natural Park is one of the oldest evergreen rainforests in the world. The park is much diverse than the Amazon rainforest in South America. The wildlife in the rainforest includes Malayan tapir, Asian elephant, sambar deer, bear, guar, banteng, serow, wild boar, tailed macaque, langur, white handed gibbon, squirrel, muntjak and mouse deer. It is also famous for the Bua Phut or the Rafflesia Kerrii. By Wanda Opara

strange travellers

Determined to travel

long distances Duke Ninan’s love for distance has got no limits and it seems to be just a number for him. He is now preparing for a mission to climb Mount Everest and a travel around the globe on bike later T&F Correspondent

98 travel & flavors

October 2013

t the age of 57 when most people think of retirement plans, Duke Ninan based in Kochi is busy preparing to become the oldest Indian to climb Mount Everest. Born in Malaysia and brought up in Ludhiana, and now residing in Kochi, he walks 20 km each morning and evening with a backpack weighing around 15 kg as part of his preparations for the Everest climb. Duke’s love for distance has got no limits and it seems to be just a number for him who has covered long distances on bike - 8,037 km in 18 days from Kochi to Bangladesh border, 11,233 km in 32 days from Kanyakumari to Shimla, and around 894 km in 42 hours from Kochi-Goa-Kochi. “I had planned a journey from Kochi to Malaysia on bike sometime back. But on the Bangladesh border, I was advised by the officials to avoid travel through Myanmar as an insurgency was going on,” he says. So he came to Kolkata on the way back home. But in Kolkata the road to Mount Everest attracted him and thus the idea of climbing Mount Everest was born. “My Malaysian trip did not materialise but I am quite determined to go there in the future,” he says. So until then what makes Duke busy? “Apart from Mount Everest, I plan to travel around the globe on bike within in 59 days, as I turn 59 in 2015,” says an excited Duke. Desert Sandstorm is Duke’s vehicle. “It’s brand new and the name of the bike reminds me of the US raid of Kuwait- Operation Desert Stormwhich ultimately spoiled my career in the Gulf,” says Duke about his choice of vehicle for globe-trotting. Travelling with less baggage is what Duke prefers and his travel bag contains three pairs of rough clothes, a pen knife, torch, camera and a laptop. He prefers to stay at roadside inns or laybay so as to start early next morning and favours vegetarian cuisine. He doesn’t mind travelling at night unless he is tired. Duke who sees his trips as a spiritual journey plans to write a book on his travel experiences in the future.

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