This England Autumn 2014 by D C Thomson & Co Ltd

THIS ENGLAND

Night and Day

AUTUMN 2014 Quarterly ÂŁ4.75

Volume Forty Seven Number Three

I gazed at the stars in the silent sky When the Earth was calm and still, And I watched the moon as she sailed aloft Over the distant hill. And I wished that this peace could still remain And last through the coming day, To calm the world with its stress and strife And soothe the worries away.

For all who love our green and pleasant land

AUTUMN 2014

DERYCK LISTER HALLAM

te cov aut 14 without3.indd All Pages

Quarterly

The long night ends with a glorious sunrise at Robin Hoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay on the coast of Yorkshire.

But I knew the darkness would soon be gone And another dawn appear, And so I slept in the quietness Until the day drew near. And when I awoke, the sun shone out, A joy for all to see, But I thanked the stars for the peaceful night And the hope they gave to me! IRIS HESSELDEN

17/07/2014 12:09

Enjoy England Throughout the Year “We were absolutely delighted to receive the This England calendar. You have no idea how much happiness and joy it brings to us, all the beautiful photographs evoking memories of past days.”— VALDA & GORDON BUCKTON, AUSTRALIA.

elebrate the scenic splendour of our green and pleasant land with This England’s Country 2015. A selection of Calendar 2015 15 superb photographs takes you on a marvellous journey Actual size when open — 17 " x 11" across the English counties from Northumberland to Norfolk and Cumberland to Cornwall. The wonderful views capture the breathtaking beauty of the English countryside amid all the seasons. Each monthly section includes verses of poetry, and details of important events — saints’ days, anniversaries, bank holidays etc. There’s space beside each day for you to jot down your own appointments. Days and dates are printed in contrasting colours enabling you to see the weeks at a glance. For more than 30 years it has been one of the best-selling calendars in Britain, but it is exclusive and only available direct from This England. Next year’s calendar is bound to be a sell-out once again and if you take advantage of our special discount (see below) the price is reduced. This England’s Country Calendar 2015 is the perfect gift to send to anyone who cherishes England, and one which will continue to give pleasure throughout the year.

“As every year, the pictures and verses are beautiful.” — MRS. H. HARRISON, BRADFORD, YORKSHIRE. RICHARD TOZER

The Historic Homes of England Petworth House and Park, Petworth, West Sussex

isitors to Petworth should prepare to step inside a house of treasures. This late 17th-century mansion is home to an internationally renowned art collection, which includes numerous paintings by J.M.W. Turner, Van Dyck and Reynolds. There are also sculptures, carvings by Grinling Gibbons, and wall and ceiling paintings by Louis Laguerre. Together with the artistic splendour displayed in the staterooms and galleries, there is the chance to discover what life was like “below stairs” in the servants’ quarters. Surrounding the magnificent house, which was rebuilt from an original mediaeval manor by Charles Seymour, 6th Duke of Somerset, is a 700-acre deer park — the work of the master landscaper Capability Brown. After the death of the 6th Duke, Petworth passed to the Earls of Egremont who were great collectors. The 3rd Earl was a friend and patron of many artists — most notably J.M.W. Turner who featured the park in several of his paintings. Although in the care of the National Trust since 1947, the present Lord Egremont and his family still live in the South Wing. Meanwhile, visitors can enjoy exploring the rest of the house, park and the woodland Pleasure Garden. In addition there is a packed programme of exciting events for all ages. To find out more about visiting Petworth, telephone 01798 342207 or go to www.nationaltrust.org.uk

inside cover aut14.indd All Pages

Not on sale in shops! Available only from the publishers.

Makes an ideal gift for Christmas.

Don’t delay phone today

01795 412823

(Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 9am-1pm)

Overseas: +44 1795 412823 (all major cards accepted)

PRICES (inc. post & packing) Delivery to:

Overseas sent by airmail

Overseas

USA

Can

Aus

£5.45

£6.95

$14

$15

$16

$18

£13.50

£18

$36

$38

$40

$46

£24

£36

$72

$76

$80

$92

10 to one address £36

£50

$99

$105 $110

$127

1 copy Code: TSD151

3 to one address Code: TSD153

6 to one address Code: TSD156

See enclosed “Shop Window” for details of our Desk Diary — the ideal companion.

Code: TSD15T

Each calendar comes with a card gift envelope

This England (sales), P.O. Box 326, Sittingbourne, Kent, ME9 8BR.  www.shopwindow-online.co.uk E-mail: sales@thisengland.co.uk 

Post your order to:

14/07/2014 10:08

Autumn 2014 . . . is a quarterly journal published in Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, for all who love our green and pleasant land. Annual subscription rates: (4 quarterly editions, inc. postage and packing): U.K. addresses £19; Overseas addresses £26 (by Airmail) Personal dollar cheques accepted from USA at $48.50 per subscription; Canada $48.50; Australia $53.50; New Zealand $63.50. Next four UK Publication Dates (approx): Winter 2014: 5th Nov.; Spring 2015: 18th Feb.; Summer 2015: 20th May; Autumn 2015: 19th Aug. Editor: Stephen Garnett Deputy Editor: Angeline Wilcox Assistant Editors: Susan Kelleher, Peter Worsley Media: Edmund Whitehouse Production: Ann Augur, Keren Bowers Music Editor: Percy Bickerdyke Recording Engineer: Eric Holmes Advertising: Charlotte Higgins Editorial Secretary: Christine Freeman Head of Publishing: Neil O’Brien

Sales/Subscriptions: This England, PO Box 326, Sittingbourne, Kent, ME9 8BR. Telephone: UK 01795 412823 Overseas +44 1795 412823 E-mail: sales@thisengland.co.uk Internet: www.thisengland.co.uk Editorial: This England, The Lypiatts, Lansdown Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2JA. Telephone: UK 01242 225780 Overseas +44 (0) 1242 225780 E-mail: editor@thisengland.co.uk Articles and photographs submitted for publication must be accompanied by a stamped addressed e nvelope for return if unsuitable. Whilst all reasonable care will be taken, the Publishers do not accept responsibility for loss of, or damage to material sent in for consideration. Address all submissions to the Editor at This England’s Editorial Office.

A rainbow brightens the stormy sky above Turf Fen windpump on the Norfolk Broads. CHRIS HERRING

Page Contents

AUTUMN 2014

12 The Historic Homes of England: Petworth House and Park, Petworth, West Sussex 14 Autumn in England 10 The Editor’s Letter 12 A Royal History of England: King Edward IV 16 It’s All Go at The Royal County of Berkshire Show 18 In England — Now!: Made in England 22 Literary Landscapes of England: The North Cotswolds of Algernon Gissing 26 Hurrah for Higher Hemlines! Celebrating 50 years of the mini-skirt 28 Poets’ Corner 30 Centenary of the First World War: Clapton Orient and the Men of the Footballers’ Battalion 34 A Haven for Heroes: The Queen Alexandra Hospital Home 36 Nelson’s Column: Keeping an eye on the nation 38 Royalty, Renown and Reality: The Photographs of John Drysdale 42 Notes from a Cottage Garden 44 Post Box: Letters to the Editor 45 Silver Cross of St. George: Em Marshall-Luck 50 Forget-Me-Nots: Lessons Learnt 53 Up and Down at Dover 54 Mind Your Language! 56 Underground Manchester 58 English Excursions: Norfolk’s Royal Coast 62 London Pride: The Story of London Bridge 65 Christian England: St. Herbert’s Island, Derwent Water 66 Cornucopia 70 English Books 74 English Diary 84 Night and Day

Richard Tozer Colin Mitchell Stephen Garnett Paul James Richard Holdsworth —

Jonathan Gurling Roger Harvey Susan Kelleher Stephen Jenkins Fiona Andrews George Nelson Angeline Wilcox Rosemary Pettigrew —

Peter Gibbs John Smith Alan Fletcher Adam Jacot de Boinod Christine Deary John Wade Steve Roberts Brian Burns — — —

Iris Hesselden

This England — read by two million patriots all over the World! Printed in England by Webmart Ltd, OX26 4UL Distributed by Marketforce, The Blue Fin Building,110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. © 2014 This England Publishing Ltd.

contents au14.indd 3

Source/Contributor

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

18/07/2014 10:47

It’s All Go at The ROYAL COUNTY of BERKSHIRE SHOW

ounty shows come in all shapes and sizes but you’d be hard pressed to find one better than the Royal County of Berkshire Show held at Newbury each year — and the weekend of 20th/21st September will see another extravaganza of all that’s best in English farming and the English countryside. The Royal County of Berkshire Show is much more than just farming although it is based around the men (and women!) of the land in one of our most productive counties. The organisers are aiming to top last year’s attractions which saw everything from chickens to llamas, from horse-driving to pig-showing skills. Families that have never been close to farm life will marvel at the sight of chicks being hatched before their very eyes while the Vauxhall City Farm brings the town to the country and is surely a “must” for every visitor. This year it is called the “Have a Go” show, offering a whole range of hands-on experiences with the experts standing at your side to give guidance. Build a den, learn to thatch, milk a cow — even ride a skateboard!

Then head for the main ring to watch the Grand Parade of all 2,000 show animals but stay on for the star attraction of the Honda BoldDog stunt team with daredevil motorbike acrobatics featuring the world’s largest and most sophisticated mobile landing system. Riders talk to the crowd as they perform and afterwards you can walk over to the interactive stand to see the men and their machines at close quarters. After the BoldDog display you may want to head to one of the many marquees where you can taste some of Britain’s finest foods or watch cookery demonstrations and compare your own modest skills with displays from the experts of the kitchen. There were more than 500 stalls at last year’s show offering the widest variety of food and drink and this number is expected to be topped as the two-day show opens its doors. And much of the produce is not what you will find in the average high street supermarket. It’s better! And if visitors have been tempted by the delights on the many food stalls, he or she can turn to the sports zone with expert tuition to take off a few pounds! The craft marquee is where visitors flock to see the huge display from exhibitors who converge from all corners of the

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

County Show.indd 16

14/07/2014 10:23

country. The organisers make sure that there is the greatest variety by strictly limiting displays from each type of craft while stand owners are encouraged to demonstrate their unique skills throughout the show. For those whose pride is their own garden, the flower marquee is a “must” with helpful hints and ideas to improve your own display. Maybe you’ll return next year and pit your own efforts against the experts! Brass bands always make their mark and dancing girls keep everyone toe-tapping while others are drawn to the spectacle of the sheep shearing demonstration where sheep do the dancing to disco music! Farming is not forgotten either. Saturday will see the expected record entry of livestock being judged by some of the country’s acknowledged experts in the 20 separate rings after which all 2,000 will take centre stage in the main ring for the Grand Parade. Everyone has their own personal favourite among the animals — from pintsized goats and fluffy lambs right up to huge stud bulls, the very best in Britain. This year, the Royal County of Berkshire Show has two shows within a show for it is hosting the annual gathering of the National Dexter cattle breed while the Midland & Southern Highland Cattle Breeders Club is also converging on the Royal County Show for their major event of the year. Massive tractors and combine harvesters from the world’s leading manufacturers stand in stark contrast to the display of what seems like toytown farm machines from the 1940s when Britain had its back to the wall. But those with a simple back garden as against a thousand-acre plot are not forgotten as they can spend an absorbing hour or two weighing up the latest gadgets to trim a hedge or mow the lawn without straining a muscle. Rhona Tucker, this year’s Chairman of the Royal County Show, has had a long association with the event having been a member for many years and most recently responsible for organising the huge floral display; the baton has since passed to her daughter, Lucy, and is now in the capable hands of her granddaughter Becky. Last year’s show was marked with a Second World War village along with the BBC local radio outside broadcast vehicle

which drew in the crowds. This year the show will look back exactly 100 years with a “Remembrance” area for all those commemorating the Great War of 1914-1918. And 2014 also marks 100 years of the Brownies and this milestone will be celebrated throughout the Royal County showground to the delight of their many followers. A few facts from last year’s show tell the tale! The show occupied over

160 acres with 20 arenas, 2,000 animals and 400 volunteer staff making a successful and stress-free show for the 60,000 visitors who — between them — consumed more than 15,000 ice creams along with 10,000 bacon rolls. All British bacon, of course! RICHARD HOLDSWORTH The showground is situated just off the M4 at Junction 13 where the motorway crosses the main A34. The show opens at 8.00am and closes at 6.00pm. Further details: 01635 247 111 or the Box Office 01635 247 155. www.newburyshowground.co.uk

County Show.indd 17

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

14/07/2014 10:23

Celebrating 50 years of the mini-skirt

t was a great British innovation. It should be in our hall of fame alongside railways, light bulbs, and parliamentary democracy. It gave us the shortest clothes and the longest leg-show in history — and the mini just won’t go away. The short skirt may be 50 years old, but it’s never going to look old-fashioned. Hemlines were rising through 1963 and 1964, unimpeded by the plain skirts, pinafores, and shiftstyle dresses of the time. Then couturier André Courreges offered geometric designs with coats and dresses shorter than ever. Jean Shrimpton appeared at a race meeting in a skirt well above her knees, and David Bailey’s photographs displayed the style around the world. The mini-skirt

had arrived and for the next few years you couldn’t keep a fashionable hemline down, despite traditional British objections to such things. The predictable condemnations from pulpit and headmistress’s lectern sounded ludicrous at the time and seem even sillier now the ultrashort skirt has, ironically, become a standard of school uniform. Mini-skirts were instantly popular and the style dominated High Street fashion as millions aspired to the leggy look. Any girl without her knees on show was instantly outdated, and most were willing to reveal them to shocked parents and Twiggy was the Sixties style icon.

ogling boyfriends. The history of fashion illustrates the curious fact that while men have remained quick to cover themselves up in everything from armour and cloaks to three-piece suits and trench coats, women have always been eager to display as much of their bodies as current decorum has allowed. After the bare shoulders, backs, arms, and enticingly displayed cleavages of Fifties glamour, it was the turn of legs to go on parade. The irony was that in normal wear, the mini-skirt revealed no flesh. It was traditionally worn over a barrage of knickers

and tights, the latter rapidly replacing stockings as basic leg wear for millions of women. The new focus on legs also brought new creativity to shoe design, and boots in all varieties were worn as never before. While the fantasy was of a girl flaunting her legs and an overt sexuality, in reality her modesty was usually well protected. Only on summer days, when her tights might

GRAHAM GOUGH

Hurrah for Higher Hemlines!

Many garments like the above dress were made from synthetic fibres — in this case — Bri-Nylon.

“SWINGING BRITAIN”

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

miniskirts-2.indd 26

14/07/2014 10:29

be discarded and trendy boots replaced by sandals, did she go public with more bare skin than had been seen for centuries. Yet the mini-skirt was coy, even chaste. Unjustly denounced by the fuddyduddies as the costume of revolution and debauchery (or at least hypothermia), it was actually a “girl-next-door”

only mystery was in guessing how many inches the hem was riding above the knee. Of course what goes up usually comes down, and as early as 1968 there were reactions to the mini-skirt, culminating in maxi lengths at the end of the decade and a proclamation in 1970 that the mini was dead. Of course it wasn’t. If hot pants took over the task of showing off legs for a Jean Shrimpton, known as “the couple of Shrimp”, was another face of summers, the decade. they were shortly replaced by a returning miniskirt which has been revived ever since with happy regularity. Its perennial joy from a man’s point of view is obvious; to women it has given much more than freedom from flapping skirts. Once established as something beyond a fashion fad, its acceptance alongside other styles brought to an end decades of tiresome adherence to changing hemline lengths. By the end of the 20th century, a woman could have long, short, and medium skirts in her wardrobe and feel fashionable in all of them. Thanks to this sensible attitude, the mini-skirt is with us still, albeit looking considerably raunchier than in the days of its innocence when modelled by Twiggy and featured on postcards of Swinging London. So, at 50 years old, the mini-skirt is both Sixties icon and enduring fashion favourite bestriding two centuries. But is its greatest glory the fact that it liberated women from the tyranny of hemline fashion, or just that it shows off a girl’s legs? In search of the answer, I promise to keep looking.

fashion. True social and sexual rebels of the Sixties wore jeans or long dresses, frequently with nothing underneath. The mini-skirt might be cheeky and sexy, but remained wholesome and fun. What it could never project was sophistication, an image rarely sought by its wearers anyway. A woman seeking to achieve a sinuous line found her traditionally mysterious allure was lost in a mini-skirt. It represented an exact opposite to the curvaceous elegance of previous decades which had reached a high point during the 1950s in the swirling wake of Dior’s New Look. This new look was dauntingly simple, angular, lighthearted, and above all young. It did no favours to a woman without youth and “SWINGING BRITAIN” a sense of fun. The

ROGER HARVEY

Further Information Some of the pictures in this article feature in Swinging Britain: Fashion in the 1960s by Mark Armstrong, published by Shire Books. Copies are available direct from This England, see “Books by Post”, page 75.

miniskirts-2.indd 27

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

15/07/2014 16:08

Centenary of the First World War

Clapton Orient and the men of the Footballers’ Battalion

hen war was declared in the summer of 1914 a huge swell of patriotism swept across the country. It is well documented that most people thought the war would be over by Christmas, so it was felt that life should carry on as normally as possible. However, the British Army was in urgent need of recruits and in the early months the campaign for attracting volunteers was spearheaded by Lord Kitchener and his famous poster with the pointing finger and the words, “Your Country Needs You”. Many of the young men who joined up, often lying about their ages, saw it as an opportunity to escape their mundane everyday lives and go on an exciting journey to a foreign land. With the war being raged across the Channel, life did carry on as usual, although the loss of manpower in commerce and

industry meant that women suddenly found themselves doing jobs they would not have dreamt possible in peacetime. Sport was seen as an ideal way of escaping the pressures and stress of war, either by playing or watching cricket, football, rugby or other activities. People would still look to spend a couple of hours on Saturday afternoon with their family and friends supporting their local team. However, the first Zeppelin raids had caused civilian casualties, so at a number of sports stadiums huge guns were installed to fend off any aerial attackers. The Football League decided that the 1914-15 season should go ahead, despite unrest from a growing number of spectators who felt unhappy about professional footballers being paid to kick a ball around a field whilst friends and members of their

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

fww centenary.indd 30

14/07/2014 10:31

families were risking their lives and often making the ultimate sacrifice. This attitude seemed to originate from Scotland where a group known as “stoppers” wanted all professional sport to be curtailed, particularly when the casualty lists began to be published in the national press. In order to assuage public opinion, Sir George McCrae, MP for east Edinburgh, had the idea of encouraging professional footballers to join up. It was not long before players from a number of Scottish clubs did just that, including 13 from Heart of Midlothian, as well as footballers from Dunfermline, Falkirk, Raith Rovers and Mossend Burnvale — all of whom enlisted in the 16th Royal Scots. Many others were to follow their example. This initiative proved to be so successful that the FA and the War Office decided to do the same in England. A special recruiting meeting was held at Fulham Town Hall on 15th December 1914 with a view to raising a battalion made up of footballers and club officials. Initially only the foyer and small hall were opened for the meeting. However, so many people attended that the doors of the main hall were opened to let the masses in. At the far end, up on the stage, sat the following: Mr. W. Joynson-Hicks MP (Chairman), Mr. H. G. Norris (Mayor of Fulham), Right Hon. W. Hayes-Fisher PC MP (President of Fulham FC), Right Hon. Lord Kinnaird KT (President of the Football Asssociation), Col. Grantham, Capt. Whiffen, Capt. Wells-Holland (Clapton Orient FC), Messrs J. B. Skeggs (Millwall) and F. J. Wall (Hon. Secretary). The hall was packed with footballers, club officials and supporters — the atmosphere was electric. The Chairman opened proceedings with an excellent speech which was followed by passionate declarations and words of encouragement from several others on the stage. This was greeted with enthusiastic applause and, due to the excitement, frequent laughter. There were, of course, many moments of seriousness when it was underlined as to why the meeting had been convened and the potential consequences of volunteering to join up in a time of war. This new battalion was the 17th Battalion Middlesex Regiment (1st Football) — which was to be more commonly known as the Footballers’ Battalion. Following the speeches the moment came for those who wished to join up to step forward onto the stage. The first person to sign up was Fred “Spider” Parker the wing-half and captain of Clapton Orient Football Club; he was then swiftly followed by Frank Buckley of Bradford City and Archie Needham of Brighton and Hove Albion. Parker was then followed by nine of his fellow Orient team mates. Croydon

A persuasive recruitment poster and the 17th Middlesex at Clipstone training camp.

Common FC also responded well with six players and Brighton with a further three. However, despite the huge number in attendance only 35 signed on the dotted line that day. Undaunted, further recruiting meetings were held throughout the land with a view to establishing the Footballers’ Battalion. Meanwhile, the Chairman of Clapton Orient, Captain Henry Wells-Holland, wasted little time in looking to add to the initial ten O’s players that had signed up at Fulham Town Hall. It had been his intention right from the start of the war to form a platoon made up entirely of Orient footballers and now he had the opportunity to put his plan into action. Wells-Holland, aided by experienced and influential midfielder Robert Dalrymple — who had previously played for Heart of Midlothian — encouraged the remaining members of the Clapton Orient squad and club officials to join up. The O’s were the first English football club to volunteer en masse with a total of 41 Orient players, staff and supporters volunteering to serve King and Country. Football, in the meantime, carried on until the end of the 1914-15 season with Clapton Orient’s last game at home to Leicester Fosse on 24th April 1915. In front of a packed house of over 20,000 spectators, not only did the Orient win the game 2-0, but straight after the match, in a farewell parade before going off to France, the ten players who had joined up at the first recruiting meeting got into uniform and marched around the pitch with other members of the Footballers’ Battalion. For many of the men this would have been the first time they had been away from home, family and friends, never mind to a foreign country. They had already attended training camps at Cranleigh in Surrey and Clipstone in Nottinghamshire but this F was now the real thing. F

fww centenary.indd 31

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

14/07/2014 10:31

TESSA DRYSDALE

John and (right) his photographer’s pass for the Coronation.

Royalty, Renown and Reality:

H.M. Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

British film companies including Metro Goldwyn Mayer and Alexander Korda’s London Films. Recalling his own inspiration to pick up a camera John tells me: “I took an interest in photography from the age of about 17 or 18, initially it was just film processing. Later I looked at most of the books in the Johannesburg Central Library and progressed from there...I started with a box camera, but soon wanted a more advanced twin lens reflex which was a Voightlander, then I moved up the

The Photographs of John Drysdale

he wild beauty of the African outback is a long way from the opulence and splendour of Buckingham Palace on Coronation Day. But such dramatic contrasts of scene — and subject — sum up perfectly the work of award-winning photographer, John Drysdale. From monarchs to models, comedians to children, actors to animals, and politicians to pop singers he has captured them all through the lens of his camera. The photographs accompanying this article offer the merest glimpse into John’s fascinating and diverse portfolio which spans the decades from the 1950s onwards. Examples of his work have been published in newspapers, magazines, books and calendars worldwide, as well as featuring in exhibitions and museums including the V&A, the National Portrait Gallery and the National Railway Museum. Before achieving all this though, he was involved in one of the most memorable photographic commissions ever. Back in 1953, he assisted the legendary Cecil Beaton taking photographs of the Queen, her family and guests on Coronation Day. This historic assignment at Buckingham Palace was thousands of miles from John’s birthplace in Uganda. He was born in Kampala to English parents, in 1930, and spent a peripatetic childhood in Uganda, Congo, Kenya, Britain and South Africa. However, almost as a foretaste of his future career, there were already connections between film and royalty in John’s family. His father organised wild animal safaris for several European royal families and various Hollywood and

scale. The first photographs were of my family and a dog.” His early photographic endeavours in Africa saw him using an abandoned 3,000 gallon water tank as a darkroom, unknown

Charge of the street brigade, London.

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

Drysdale.indd 38

14/07/2014 10:39

to his father. Unfortunately the tank was moved one day, while John was working inside it — an experience that he likens to being “tumbled in a washing machine with developer instead of detergent”! Fortunately, this didn’t put him off and he was keen to pursue things further. While staying with relatives in England, he visited Guildford College of Art. It had an excellent reputation for its photography course and John was subsequently invited to become a student there. Having spent most of his youth in Africa, John describes his first impressions of England. “I remember everything in the countryside being vivid and bright green. I had seen many pictures of London, and it was very impressive to see the sights in reality. I arrived after midnight and walked all over the West End and City until early morning.” After leaving college his first job took him into elevated echelons of the photographic world. “I heard that Vogue Studios in London needed an assistant to work with several photographers including Cecil Beaton and Norman Parkinson,” he says. “It was a good place to start as the work was so varied, not just fashion. The studios undertook advertising commissions and lots of celebrities, and they had a very liberal supply of colour film from the USA at a time when it was almost a rarity in England, also the staff were allowed to make free use of the studios, film and processing after hours and weekends. This was very useful and saved me great expense. Apart from the English photographers they had many visiting ones from the USA, France and Italy.” Remembering those photographic luminaries, Beaton and Parkinson, John observes: “During my time Beaton had lost interest in photography and was more involved in film and costume design. Parkinson was, to me, much more interesting and creative, and could always pull several rabbits out of the hat. Beaton by then was perhaps trading on his past in photography, Parkinson was alive with innovation and ideas and his technique was excellent.” All the photographs for Condé Naste magazines were produced at Vogue Studios, together with other external commissions, so John worked on location throughout the UK. But then came what was, literally, the crowning moment of the young photographer’s career — the Coronation. John

admits that he didn’t feel nervous on the day because of the extensive rehearsals and the fact he had been to the Palace before to assist Beaton with official portraits of the royal family. His previous experience in photographing countless stars and famous people also proved invaluable. His memories of the occasion are crystal-clear. “Setting up was always done on the previous day and everything was tested. On Coronation Day we had to photograph all the royal families of Europe. It was more like a production line as they all processed through. Eventually the Queen’s group arrived, as with all the others there was a mad rush to take as many pictures as possible in the time available. Beaton used a Rolleiflex, his other assistant and I used 10 x 8-inch cameras and exposed as many sheets of colour and black-and-white film as possible. There was no time to stand and take in the scene.” Describing the technicalities of the assignment, John explains: “Apart from Beaton there were two of us also taking pictures, we had plenty of film and cameras and

‘Only Princess Anne and Prince Charles were loose cannons’

Dog goalkeeper, London.

lighting, everything had been tested, so there was no reason to think that it might all prove a failure. Later, test batches were processed at Vogue Studios, then the rest followed in small batches to increase safety. We did not take any chances.” Those in front of the camera helped to ensure that everything ran smoothly for the photographers. “The royal families knew what was required, they had plenty of help from staff who arranged the robes and made sure details had not been ignored, the photography and lighting crew knew what to do,” says John. “I don’t remember great tension, we worked fast and each group then moved on. Eventually we had finished. The atmosphere was more like that of a normal assignment, because it had been well planned and rehearsed.” However, he notes that there were a couple of unpredictable subjects who kept drifting out of focus! “Only Princess Anne and Prince Charles were loose cannons, being very young. Anne often had to be picked up and carried back into the picture by a lady helper.” For John the highlight of the event was that there were “no hitches”. So, what are his recollections of Her Majesty F

Mum’s the word, London.

Street pedallers, London.

Drysdale.indd 39

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

14/07/2014 10:39

“

’ve just been clearing the loft and found this.” I hold out a carefully folded and pressed cigarette packet. Red with a black cat motif. “What is it, Grandad?” Eleven-year-old William turns from the terminal where he is playing chess against the computer. “It’s a stivvie. We played with them instead of cigarette cards after the war. We flicked them towards a wall. Nearest won and took all the losing stivvies.” “Not much of a game,” Will says. I close my eyes. Suddenly it was a spring day in 1951, in my last term at Junior School (Cockton Hill, Bishop Auckland). I was about the age Will is now.

I was sending my stivvie spinning towards the wall. It fell gently, close to the brickwork. My friend followed. His fell alongside. We went up to see how they lay.

Lessons Learnt “Bad luck, Smithy. Mine’s closer than yours. I win.” He reached down to claim my stivvie. I put my foot down to stop him. “It’s a draw,” I said. “Mine is nearer.” “No it isn’t.”

“Wey aye it is. Look.” “You just want my Craven A.” Our argument was silenced by the blast of a whistle. Instantly all activity in the school yard froze. Marbles ceased. Scuffling football games came to an abrupt halt. Boys chasing each other stopped dead in their tracks. After a few seconds another blast called us to line up in our forms, arms’ lengths apart, ready to march back into school. Then on a signal we stumped up the access slope, past crates of empty milk bottles, already smelling rancid in the warm sunshine. Inside we turned right and right again, into our familiar classroom, light streaming through the high windows, and found our places. We sat upright waiting in silence, arms

The class of 1951. The author is in the centre of the back row.

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

FMN - Autumn.indd 50

16/07/2014 09:44

folded, 40 or so boys in a tiny classroom, paired in four columns of ten. After a short while our master, Harry Thubron, came in. He was a First World War veteran, stooping with a slight limp, and nearing retirement. We all stood and he walked in silence to his high desk by the window. And then? Back in the present, I frown. I can remember the physical school well enough: two parallel single-storey brick buildings built on a slope at the turn of the century. They were about 25 yards apart, each with classrooms set around a hall. Our side — the boy’s junior and senior building — was separated by a tarmac playground from the infants and older girls. Across the top were some craft classrooms; across the foot, the toilets. A drainage guttering divided the playground. We were strictly forbidden to cross that divide. Socially we were a mixed bag. Postwar Durham was a tough place, with poverty and unemployment still high, but new industries had moved in bringing with them families like ours, up from the soft south. I was treated with suspicion by many of my classmates, and never really accepted by some. Back in my chair I turn the stivvie over in my hand and try to remember what we did in that classroom. Times might be hard but the quality of education was excellent. Harry taught a simple syllabus with no frills, trying to get as many of us as possible to the Grammar School. And he was very good. The syllabus was heavily dominated by Arithmetic and English. These, with an intelligence test, were at the heart of the Scholarship papers which we practised every week. I still remember the smell of those cyclostyled handwritten sheets of questions that we answered against the clock every Friday morning. We became expert at spelling difficult words; parsing sentences; defining a verb; calculating how quickly a cistern would fill, given rates of inflow and outflow; multiplying tons, hundredweights, stones and pounds by seven; or dividing pounds, shillings and pence by five; answering questions that started: John is older than Tom but younger than George. . . But it was more than practising for the Scholarship. Harry also brought the outside world flooding in. Geography: with him drawing on the blackboard the outline of the British Isles, with its mountains and main rivers. Their names are still with me: Grampians and Cheviots, Swale, Ure, Nidd, Wharfe, Aire, Don...We learned about coalfields

The town hall and St. Anne’s Church, Bishop Auckland. MICHAEL DURNAN

and shipbuilding areas; where iron ore was mined and where the steelworks were. I remember a magic lantern show of the Empire. History: reciting the Kings and Queens of England, the main battles with the French Revolution, the Civil War and the Great Fire of London. There

Religious Education: the glorious language of the King James Bible — “I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help.” The basics of musical notation — the stave and the treble and bass clefs. BBC Schools’ broadcasts at two o’clock on a Thursday. In summer Harry turned on the radio early so we could hear the lunchtime cricket scores, especially if there was a Test Match on. Sports, or PE, taken in good weather in the school yard. I remember a team game involving a football and two circles some 30 yards apart. At the centre of each circle was a defended skittle that we had to knock over to score. Progress tests were frequent, marked out of 10 or 100, so that our term reports gave a tangible measure of how well we were doing. I still have a couple of those reports, some two years apart. My performance was very good but I can’t remember being praised or feeling important as a result. Finally there was poetry. Ah, yes. That triggers a whole set of complicated memories. Poetry, every Friday afternoon. “I wandered lonely as a cloud, that floats on high, um, um.” “Come out. Next.” “That floats on high o’er vales and hills, er, um.” “Come out. Next.” And so it went on, each boy standing

must have been more than that but the memory has gone. Basic engineering drawing, where we would draw wooden shapes in plan, side and end elevations, and woe betide if you messed up by rubbing anything out. Science: botany and biology and the basics of chemistry and physics. Arts and Crafts: taken by a lovely elderly lady, Miss Mattinson — mainly drawing and painting but that’s all I can remember.

More ‘FORGET-ME-NOTS’ overleaf

FMN - Autumn.indd 51

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

16/07/2014 10:04

English Excursions

Norfolk’s Royal Coast

Holkham Bay, where the sky meets the sea, the ancient chapel ruins and lighthouse at St. Edmund’s Point and the pine forest at Holkham.

here’s something rather royal about the coast of North Norfolk. It’s not just that the Queen has a house nearby at Sandringham, there are a great many other royal connections too. King’s Lynn, close to Sandringham, was visited by Princess Victoria in 1835, two years before she became Queen, where she was mobbed by crowds of well-wishers. Today, the townsfolk are just as pleased to see the reigning monarch. On the day of her Golden Jubilee back in 2002, the Queen came to King’s Lynn to open the Queen Elizabeth Hospital, named after the Queen Mother. Ten years later, early in 2012, she chose the town as a place

to celebrate her Diamond Jubilee celebrations with a visit to meet local dignitaries and schoolchildren. As well as the King’s Lynn connections (where, incidentally, the Queen Mother was patron of the annual festival), there’s the beach where the Queen has been seen walking her dogs, a wildlife viewing tower opened by Prince Charles, and a golf course with royal patronage. If the Royal Family love North Norfolk so much, it must be something special, and the best way to discover what makes it so is with a trip along the coastline closest to Sandringham. One of 33 places in England officially designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it’s one of the country’s few true north coasts, stretching from Hunstanton in the west, 43 miles to Cromer in the east. Hunstanton is a typical English seaside resort. It’s a nice town, but the nearby village of

Old Hunstanton, from which the new town took its name, is more interesting. Here, old stone cottages tumble down lanes to the sea and a beach bordered by red and white chalk cliffs. Nearby, at St. Edmund’s Point, lie the ruins of an ancient chapel, built in 1272 to commemorate Edmund, the AngloSaxon King of East Anglia. Just beyond is a beautifully restored lighthouse, built in 1666. Close to Old Hunstanton, at Holmenext-the-Sea, in 1998 a night of heavy winds uncovered a 4,000-year-old monument buried in the sand. The site consisted of a ring of 55 oak tree trunks forming a 20-feet wide circular enclosure with a large oak-tree stump buried upside down in the centre. Its exact purpose is still unknown, but with its similarity to Wiltshire’s prehistoric Stonehenge, the press soon labelled the Norfolk discovery Seahenge. Today, the excavated remains have been transferred to the Mary Rose Trust at Portsmouth to be studied by archaeologists. However, an impressive reconstruction of Seahenge can be seen at Lynn Museum in Market Street, King’s Lynn. Travelling east from Hunstanton brings you to Holkham where, it seems, the sky meets

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

Eng excursions aut.indd 58

16/07/2014 10:02

The beach, harbour and a flag-flying shop at Wells-next-the-Sea, and Cley Windmill which is now a hotel.

the sea. Central to the area is Holkham Hall, recognised as one of the ten most magnificent palaces, houses and castles in Britain. The grand Palladian-style hall and gardens are worth a visit, but if you want to see the beach where the Queen sometimes strolls, follow the signs to Holkham’s nature reserve. There’s a large car park here, from where you can walk through a forest of pine trees full of wildlife, including whitethroat, blackcap and willow warblers, with colourful butterflies and wild flowers in abundance. Then, just when you think it couldn’t get any better, you break through the trees onto one of the wildest beaches in England. This is Holkham Bay, the most extensive, diverse and dramatic nature reserve on Norfolk’s north coast. The place is a maze of creeks, meandering through flat sand and hilly dunes. The beach stretches east and west, and a mile or more out to the distant sea, making a nesting ground for shore birds like plovers and oystercatchers. You’ll find their pebble-patterned eggs among the flotsam and tough little dune plants. The beach, with the Queen and corgis on it, was the subject of a limited edition print by Norfolk painter Brian Lewis, as is Wells-next-the-Sea, the next stop along the coast. The most agreeable way

it from other places in Norfolk named Wells. Its biggest attraction is a long, sweeping beach, leading to a picturesque harbour dotted with fishing boats, where children fish for crabs and stalls sell freshly caught seafood. Thanks to silting over the years, the town itself is now a little way inland, a network of narrow streets, old alleys and yards, with a high street full of individual shops, boutiques, pubs and cafés. Georgian and Victorian architecture abounds. In the early to mid-1800s, there were three shipyards in Wells, along with associated shipbuilding trades. From its port, coal, timber and salt were imported, and corn, barley and malt exported. Many of the granaries still exist, including one with a distinctive overhanging gantry, standing on the harbour, now turned into luxury apartments. Wells-next-the-Sea is one of the two most attractive towns on this coast. Sheringham is the other. Travelling from Wells to Sheringham, it’s worth pausing at the small coastal village of Blakeney, and then Cley to check out that village’s beautifully restored 19th-century F windmill. F

to get there from Holkham is on foot, following signs that take you through the pine forest. In a television programme, character actor Timothy Spall sailed into Wells-nextthe-Sea and proclaimed it one of Britain’s hidden gems, blessed with natural beauty, that he had never heard of before. It’s the same for many people who are unaware of the beauties of this coast. Stop at this delightful little town and it’s hard to believe that you are less than three hours by road from the edge of London. Wells-next-the-Sea, named after several freshwater wells in the area, took its name in the early 1800s to distinguish

Eng excursions aut.indd 59

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

14/07/2014 10:48

A collection of customs, curiosities and coming events

First World War hospital has been recreated at Dunham Massey Hall, the National Trust property near Altrincham in Cheshire. From April 1917 to January 1919, Dunham Massey housed the Stamford Military Hospital. Penelope, Lady Stamford, offered her home to the Red Cross and its role was to provide treatment to rank and file soldiers whose injuries, while not life threatening, were serious enough to require medical care back in “Blighty”. According to the National Trust, “The hospital was run and managed by three remarkable women. Lady Stamford, worked as the hospital’s Commandant and was ultimately responsible for its efficient administration. A prominent member of the local Red Cross, she worked tirelessly to raise funds for the war effort. Lady Jane Grey was her daughter, who, aged just 15 when war broke out, helped transform Dunham into the hospital and spent much of the war years living and working there as a Voluntary Aid Detachment nurse.

“The senior member of staff responsible for the day to day running of the hospital was Sister Catherine Bennett. A qualified nurse, she was dedicated and very hands-on. Her commitment to high standards was probably a key reason for the excellent results; the hospital saw no fatalities on site amongst the 281 patients who passed through its doors.” In 1986 Lady Jane Turnbull, as she had become, recorded her memories of the only operation she attended at the hospital, commenting, “And you know you always wonder whether you are going to be a bit squeamy and sort of faint like you hear people do... but having been given the job to do one forgets oneself. But otherwise it was the most extraordinary place for an operating theatre because through in the Billiard Room was the nurses’ sitting room, so we were always walking through of an evening once everything was over, so that made it rather unhygienic didn’t it?” The recreation of the Stamford Military Hospital has been carried out in association

A recreated ward at Stamford Military Hospital, Dunham Massey in Cheshire. NATIONAL TRUST

with the Imperial War Museum North. Visitors will be able to see the hospital, including the main ward, known as “Bagdad” to patients, until the end of the 2016 season at Dunham Massey. GEOFF SIMPSON

Full information on what to look out for when launching your own walk is also available online.

“Great Briton” opens New Jet Age Museum

Get the Buzz — Go on a Bumblebee Walk! PAUL I. MAKEPEACE

National Trust’s Wartime Hospital

othing beats a walk through the English countryside and as you explore the great outdoors you can keep an eye on one of our familiar insects that is under threat — the bumblebee. Throughout this year the Bumblebee Conservation Trust is inviting people to help them in a nationwide census to monitor how the bumblebee population is changing. Two species have already become extinct in the UK. Bumblebees are an essential part of the countryside, responsible for pollinating crops and wildflowers and ensuring the food we need can grow and be harvested. A range of BeeWalks has been devised, which are simple and fun, and offer an education experience for all the family. To find out how to get involved in creating your own Bumblebee walk route, or where you can join one of the many guided trips set up for families across the country, visit www. bumblebeeconservation.org .

he new Jet Age Museum in Gloucester has been officially opened by Captain Eric “Winkle” Brown, who featured as the “Great Briton” in This England’s summer issue and in a recent BBC television documentary. At the age of 95, Captain Brown is the last surviving pilot to have flown the first British jet, the Gloster E28/39 in 1944. Gloucestershire has an impressive aviation heritage from 1917 to the 1960s and the Gloster Aircraft Company (GAC) was at the forefront of British aircraft-design and building. Although principally focusing on the work of GAC the museum commemorates other local firms linked with the county’s aircraft industry including Dowty Rotol and Smiths Industries. Among the Gloster planes on display are the Meteor, Javelin and a full-size replica of the E28/39. Open at weekends and Bank Holidays, the Jet Age Museum is at Meteor Business Park, Cheltenham Road East, Gloucester GL2 9QL. Website: www.jetagemuseum.org .

Heritage Open Days — 20 Years of History

owers and tunnels, factories and follies, chapels and synagogues — thousands of England’s most unique and undiscovered historic sites will be throwing open their doors for free in September, as Heritage Open Days celebrates its 20th anniversary. The four-day festival, from 11th to 14th September,

THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

corn-Aut14.indd 66

14/07/2014 10:55

promises a more diverse array of events than ever before, ranging from 1950s tea-dances to Elizabethan garden parties. Join guided walks, visit secret archives, discover hidden works of art — or simply pack a picnic and soak up the sunshine in a garden of your choice. With every event free, Heritage Open Days make a great family day out, with activities to keep all ages happy. Among the new highlights this year are: Cadland House Gardens, Isle of Wight; South Devon Railway — Behind the Scenes; Cheylesmore Manor, Coventry; Lord Hill’s Column, Shrewsbury and Cowbridge Sawmill, Exmoor. To discover more venues and events right across the country go to www.heritageopendays. org.uk .

D-Day Anniversary Photographic Exhibition

Vera Hay, was one of the first British nurses to land at Normandy on D-Day. She features in an exhibition and book about the veterans of the campaign. ROBIN SAVAGE

its sister castles at Restormel and Launceston, which it resembles. The Grade-I listed circular stone keep is perched on a hill overlooking to the south the estuary of the River Lynher, flowing into the Tamar, and to the east the village of St. Stephens, a suburb of Saltash. Below, the main railway line is carried across the Forder Valley by one of Brunel’s stone viaducts. Sir John Betjeman described the panorama from the keep as “one of the most superb views in Cornwall”. During the 16th century Sir Francis Drake, who married a Saltash girl, Mary Newman, is rumoured to have stashed his Spanish treasure here. In the castle grounds is a large Grade-II listed Regency manor house built by Benjamin Tucker in 1820, and the Duchy has offered the estate on a 20-year lease for £850,000.

s part of the D-Day 70th anniversary, a special photographic exhibition is taking place at the Imperial War Museum, Duxford. D-Day — The Last of the Liberators features 15 portraits taken by Robin Savage of the last surviving British Normandy veterans. This poignant photographic exhibition records, in a unique way, the stories of these remarkable individuals and their emotional but dignified return to the locations, in many cases JOHN HUSBAND the exact spot, which are tied to their most profound personal From Silk Mill to memories of the campaign; Museum in Derby places where they saw action or were wounded, where he site of the world’s first they experienced instances of factory, the Silk Mill at miraculous chance in the field Derby, has reopened its doors to or where they witnessed the loss the public as a museum fit for of friends through the horror of the 21st century. battle. The building, dating back to The photographs in the 1910, sits on the banks of the exhibition are a selection from a River Derwent, at the southern new book of the same title (see tip of the Derwent Valley Mills “English Books”, page 70). The exhibition runs until December this year. For Trematon Castle in Cornwall. further information go to iwm.org.uk/d-day .

World Heritage Site. Managed by Derby Museums as Derby Industrial Museum from 1974 to late 2011, the museum closed with a longer-term vision of securing the future of this significant heritage asset. The dedicated work of Derby Museums, their partners and the local community has paid off following the refurbishment of the ground floor as a museum. This is a great achievement resulting from an ambitious and exciting new idea in museum development under the “Remake the Museum” project. This has involved the staff of Derby Museums and their partners engaging with the local community to help choose the items displayed and the layout of fixtures and fittings. The “citizen curator” model has inspired the people of Derby to volunteer to share old skills and for others to add new strings to their bow to help build their own museum. This is the first part of a longterm project to create a major tourist attraction celebrating

A Cornishman’s Home is his Castle!

he Duchy of Cornwall has put a Norman castle up for sale — or at least a 20-year lease. The Duchy has owned Trematon Castle, near Saltash, since 1270 when it was sold to Richard, Earl of Cornwall, along with

corn-Aut14.indd 67

Derby’s rich industrial heritage, its contribution to the Derwent Valley heritage and its continuation as a leading centre for engineering design and manufacture. From the 13th century onwards, the European silk industry began to flourish in Italy. John Lombe and his brother, who was a silk merchant in the early 18th century, had the foresight to recognise the potential of manufacturing good quality silk in England. However, challenging the Italians’ superiority in this trade was difficult as their process was a well-kept secret. John travelled to Italy to work in the industry, although this almost certainly involved what we would now regard as industrial espionage! After returning to England and building his five-storey Silk Mill with all the processes in one complex using a single source of power, he had effectively established in 1721 the prototype for factory construction worldwide. In the following year, John died suddenly in unknown circumstances, leading to speculation as to whether the Italians poisoned him as revenge for stealing their secrets. Another of the great entrepreneurs of the Derwent Valley has often overshadowed John Lombe’s innovation of the first factory. Nine miles north and 50 years later, Richard Arkwright created the first massproduction factory at Cromford, earning F THIS ENGLAND, Autumn, 2014

14/07/2014 10:52

THIS ENGLAND

Night and Day

AUTUMN 2014 Quarterly ÂŁ4.75

Volume Forty Seven Number Three

For all who love our green and pleasant land

AUTUMN 2014

DERYCK LISTER HALLAM

te cov aut 14 without3.indd All Pages

Quarterly

The long night ends with a glorious sunrise at Robin Hoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay on the coast of Yorkshire.

17/07/2014 12:09