Prada Merchandising Analysis & Collection Additions

strategic design and merchandisign Prada RTW FW2018 Debora Ferrara

disk-i

cy-ht

tull-off

Topic 1.

Topic 2.

Topic 3. The garments below ”tull-off” topic are designed

disco + ski

In the section “Disk-i” is possible to see the juxtaposition of two themes as strong as they are distant: the disco and skiing worlds.

Purely disco clothes are provocatively mixed with ski gear, oversized sweaters or wide jackets.

Even the color palette encloses the two worlds, alternating strong bright colors, such as neon green, turquoise or deep pink, and softer winter colors.

city + night/light

The “Cy-ht” section describes a nocturnal moodboard, full of several lights that illuminate the city creating an interesting cross of colors.

The prints, present in large number, become fundamental to narrate the colors given by a traffic light, signs, reflections or street lighting.

tulle + office

for a strong woman donna that does not abandon her romantic, floreal and fluffy garment to go to office.

The garments, although they have simple shapes, perfects for a work day, like a suit, a sheath dress or a coat, contain elements, such as tulle, floral patches or bright colors, which characterize them making the outfit irreverent and non-trivial.

disco + ski

disk-i

city + night/light

cy-ht

tulle + office

tull-off

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Color Palette

There is a strong contrast between the bright, eclectic colors that were weaved into sleek nude and midnight black fabrics, every piece told some sort of story that worked with the aesthetics of the show.

The color scheme of the night is neon against neutral backgrounds; think bright orange beading scattered across a sheer black dress or an electric orange tulle bow trailing behind a khaki coat.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Color Palette

Black Brandon

C63M49Y49K89

Brown Barbara

Beige Brianna

Yellow Yasmine

C26M85Y100K19 C6M6Y50K0

Green Giorgio

Pink Pia

C17M2Y95K0 C64M0Y100K0

Red Rossana

C0M72Y5K0

Blue Bella

C0M89Y99K0

C83M0Y46K0

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Solid Fabrics

Prada’s seemed sketchily put together from hefty utilitarian layers of workwear and tulle, assembled entirely from manmade materials.

The Italian fashion house went back to its industrial roots, accessing its iconic nylon fabric, the company’s black Pocononylon padded rainwear appear on everything from outerwear to bags.

It also provoked questioning. The use of so many unsustainable man-made fabrics is a big one.

Fashion is the bigger culprit in damaging the planet. So the fashion world would Miuccia Prada begin to turn her creative intelligence to that subject.

Bright structured tweeds are layered over organza, acid-spill florals; bucket hats are paired with matching oversize vests and plastic-fringed skirts.

It played classic tropes of femininity — corsetry, flowers, veiling, bows, sequins — against traditional men’s wear fabrics; high-tech, industrial materials, and elements of sports.

Shapes range from gentle to big and bulky, sometimes in combination. And throughout came the message that Prada women do not go quietly into the dark night.

Glowing fluorescents and digital prints were contrasted with tweeds, squaredoff parkas, and construction worker vests.

NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Solid Fabrics_the NYLON

NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON

nylon TULLE

NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON 85% Nylon 15% Polyester Tulle is a lightweight, very fine, stiff netting.

NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON NYLON

nylon ORGANZA

80% Nylon 20% Silk Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk, but modern organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as nylon.

pocono NYLON

100% Nylon It’s unorthodox fabric called Pocono nylon—the durable water-resistant fabric often used to make military tents.

Prada & Nylon Prada began gaining popularity in 1985, when she unveiled a series of black nylon handbags and backpacks with understated labeling—a stark contrast to the logo heavy clothes that dominated the fashion world at the time.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Solid Fabrics

C/S JERSEY

SHEARLING

80% Cotton 20% Spandex Jersey is a knitted, slightly stretchy fabric.

PLASTIC FRINGED

100% Lamb It has a suede surface on one side and a clipped fur surface on the other.

NEOPRENE

100% PVC PVC fabric is water-resistant, it has a niche role in specialty clothing, to either create a artificial leather material or at times simply for its effect.

WOOL TWEED

100% CR It’s a synthetic rubber produced by the polymerization of chloroprene: it is highly resistant to oil, heat, light, and oxidation.

KNITTED WOOL

80% Wool 20% Viscosa Tweed is a thick woollen cloth, often woven from different coloured threads.

85% goat 15% Spandex Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Prints&Patterns

Prada thinking about how women navigate the night. “I liked the idea of the night, the night as the place for adventure, the place of freedom and its limits,” she said during a preshow press conference.

“Women, on the one hand, have to be strong and protected, aggressive and powerful. On the other side, you bring with you all the characteristics of femininity, sometimes carried on from our past and how you’ve been raised.”

Plaid and floral graphics dominated the prints giving both a futuristic and whimsical feeling.

The prints can be divided into 2 themes: floral (nylon and jersey); inspired by the lights of the night (in nylon).

As regards to pattern, they can be seen on knitted wool sweaters, tweed suits and coats.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Prints_NYLON pocono

road LIGHT 1

road LIGHT 2

fluffy GARDEN 1

traffic LIGHT 2

fluffy GARDEN 2

fluffy HELL 1

fluffy PAINTING 1

fluffy PAINTING 2

fluffy SAND 1

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Prints_NYLON organza

traffic LIGHT 1

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Prints_C/S jersey

fluffy OCEAN 3

road LIGHT 3

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Patterns_Wool: Plaids, Pied de Poule, Tweed

PLAID 1

PLAID 2

black, white, red, blue

black, white, red

tweed COCO 2

tweed COCO 3

black, white, magenta

Pied de Poule black, white, blue

black, white, violet

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Patterns_Knitted wool/ Argyl pattern

k-RHOMBUS 1 black, white, grey

k-RHOMBUS 2 white, green, pink

k-RHOMBUS 3 dark grey, white, violet

PLAID 3

black, white, orange

tweed COCO black, yellow, green

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Hardware/Trimmings

Sportswear Hardware:

Newfangled logos

declined in several options, as a patch or application, printed or knitted.

A strong theme of the collection was the luxury’s integration of sport and street, and it can be seen on the choise of trimmings: there are felt, press-studs, zip fasteners, coulisse and tape.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Embellishment

Office Hardware:

Strapless cocktail dresses have corporate ID cards pinned to the breast.

Romantic issue:

Embrodery/PVC plastic-fringed/ Sequins/ flowers, veiling, bows.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Accessories_ bags/shoes/ knee highs

Accessories:

Accessories, such as bags, can be seen in showcasing simple outlines in neon hues that could not be missed. Every accessory was color-coordinated with the garment.

Ladylike shapes in pleated midi-skirts and dresses are paired with practical, utilitarian shoe choices like rubber boots or elastic-tied heels, worn with different branded knee hights.

Some of sportier looks were paired with color-blocked rain rubber boots with appropriated nylon drawstring leg-coverings, up to the knee.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Accessories_ sunglasses/gloves/bucket hats

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

The 1980s is a key source of inspiration for a range of party-ready dresses.

His spirit is captured with mini but sophisticated lenghts and emphasised padded shoulders or single shoulders accompanied by statement long sleeves.

Ruching, draping and wrapping add modernity to the trend, following by vibrant colour, prints and sequins.

p i l low c o a t x l

8 0 ' s m i n i lo n g - s l e e v e d va m p d r e ss

sports-to-wear turtleneck front opening

Trend Analysis

Activewear continues to influence fashion: looks have a 1990s vibe.

The sports-to-wear turtleneck is a sportif alternative to the romantic turtleneck, based on a combination of heritage sportswear, streamlined ergonomic details and urban aesthetics. Industrial-inspired surfaces and technical finishes formed the basis of this item. This trend is supplemented by active updates, such as zip-through closures, drawcord closures or snapshut finishes, extra-large embellishment or sequins and patent coatings.

A/W 18/19 offers several declinations for the perennial puffy coat, padded oversize outerwear forming bulky silhouettes. This shape promote cropped and deconstructed coats.

The trend is also accompanied by shiny technical materials, splashes of bright colour, print or patch.

8 0 ' s m i n i lo n g - s l e e v e d va m p d r e ss

From the left: Balenciaga AW 2018 Versace AW 2018 Balmain AW 2018 Isabelle Marant AW 2018 Saint Laurent AW 2018

s po rts - to - w e a r t u rt l e n ec k f ro n t o p e n i n g

From the left: Sportmax AW 2018 Trussardi AW 2018 Alexander Wang AW 2018 Givenchy AW 2018 Stella Jean AW 2018

p i l low c o a t x l

From the left: Fendi AW 2018 Maison Martin Margiela AW 2018 Burberry AW 2018 Sportmax AW 2018 Sacai AW 2018

SKU/STYLE OVERVIEW MOOD DISK-I CATEGORIES

1. outerwear

SUBCATEGORIES

STYLES

TOTAL%

STYLES

TOTAL%

STYLES

TOTAL%

a. Nylon oversize jacket

0

0%

2

100%

0

0%

2

3,80%

b. Shearling button up coat

1

100%

0

0%

1

33,33%

2

3,80%

c. Bell short sleeves tailored coat

0

0%

0

0%

2

66,66%

2

3,80%

1

0

0%

0

0%

1

1,90%

b. knee pareo skirt

1

20%

0

0%

0

0%

1

1,90%

c. knee a-line skirt

3

60%

2

100%

1

100%

6

11,50%

5

100%

2

100%

1

1

50%

0

0

1

50%

2

3,80%

b. zip opening polo neck sweater

1

50%

0

0

1

50%

2

3,80%

2

100%

0%

0

100%

2

a. sleeveless crew neck dress

1

33,30%

2

33,33%

2

33,30%

5

9,60%

b. strapless tight waist midi dress

1

33,30%

1

16,60%

1

16,60%

3

5,80%

c. sleeveless neck line cocktail dress

1

33,30%

3

50%

2

33,30%

6

11,50%

d. long sleeves slim dress

0

0%

0

0

1

16,60%

1

1,90%

3

100%

100%

6

100%

6

a. plastic-fringed mini top

2

100%

0

0%

0

0%

2

3,80%

b. knitted mini top

0

0%

2

100%

1

50%

3

5,80%

c. leather mini top

0

0%

0

0%

1

50%

1

1,90%

2

100%

100%

2

100%

2

a. high waists ski nylon pants

1

100%

0

0

0

0%

1

1,90%

b. integrated belt tailored trousers

0

0%

1

100%

1

100%

2

3,80%

1

100%

100%

1

100%

1

a. Branded jersey turtleneck

4

66,60%

2

50%

0

0

6

11,50%

b. oversize padded vest

2

33,30%

0

0%

0

0

2

3,80%

c. sleeveless doubled button up coat

0

0%

2

50%

0

0

2

3,80%

subtotal

totals

100%

a. oversize branded pullover

subtotal

7. activewear

100%

3

20%

subtotal

6. pants

100%

2

1

subtotal

5. strapless top

100%

a. midi pleated skirt

subtotal

4. dresses

TOTAL

TOTAL%

subtotal

3. Pullover

MOOD TULL-OFF

STYLES

subtotal

2. skirts

MOOD CY-HT

6

100%

4

100%

0

0%

52

100%

Analyzing the Assortment Fabric assortment

Analyzing the collection it is clear that it is very articulate and presents numerous materials and variants. nylon, in particular black, pocono nylon, being one of the brand’s iconic symbols, could be more developed, especially in accessories. it is precisely the black nylon that opens the show and is immediately declined in different product categories, but a black nylon pant is missing.

Solid and prints alternate resulting quite quantitatively equal. prints are mostly made on jersey through digital printing, but nylon also hosts them in smaller quantities.

More prints could be added to the collection on nylon, diversifying the category of products.

One of the most original fabrics in the collection is neoprene, which however is developed only in two color variants. It would therefore be interesting to develop new colors in different silhouettes.

Knit vs Woven

Being a winter collection, the knitted pieces are varied and the fabrics have different characteristics both in the patterns and in the qualities.

The float jacquard knit technique is used for two different fabrics, which have two color variants each and include two product categories: outerwear and dress.

A broadening of the merchandise option could be developed regarding a skirt and trousers.

The micro argyle pattern is declined exclusively for three turtlenecks, which vary only in color.

The same thing is repeated for the macro argyle pattern that is declined in three color variants but only on one type of sweater.

The suits in the two different tweeds have a totally identical shape, like the three tweed tops that vary only in color.

Surface/details

PVC is a very interesting surface for the development of the collection, however it only affects a few outfits of the collection, declined in clothes or tops. the logo of the car is used in a diversified manner, as a patch, pattern, application or texture. embellishment belong to two distant worlds that can however be complementary: the office badge and plastic sequins that together make up romantic colored flowers.

Color balance

The output order of the various collection outfits almost seems to suggest a storytelling in which from the dark we pass to the light, that is from the total black to the fluo colors, passing through outfits with more subtle colors, almost neutral with color spikes. the color balance of the collection could be improved by adding some total black outfits, as the iconic color of the brand. in terms of sales, fluorescent colors have a distinct advantage as they are immediately recognizable and linked to this specific collection, so other outfits with fluorescent shades could be made.

Balancing Classification

Balancing SKU

OUTERWEAR: the three sub-categories are homogeneous, therefore they present almost identical quantities.

SKIRTS: the numbers reveal a large number of skirts belonging to the third sub-category, knee a-line skirt, while the other two subcategories count only one unit.

PULLOVER: overall the sub-categories are homogeneous, but the category in general could be enriched.

DRESSES: there are four sub-categories of dresses, but they are not all quantitatively homogeneous, in particular the second and fourth ones are under developed. In general the category is already widely developed.

STRAPLESS TOP: Overall the category is homogeneous in quantity, however more leather mini tops could be developed.

PANTS: this category is under developed compared to the others, there are only two categories and the percentage of trousers compared to the collection is very low.

The category must be expanded.

ACTIVEWEAR: the sub-categories are not perfectly homogeneous, in fact the turtlenecks are greater than the other sub-categories. it would therefore be appropriate to develop them.

Best sellers

Analyzing the collection as a whole, the product categories that can represent the best sellers are all those garments that present fluorescent colors, as they can easily be associated with this collection and represent their essence, such as ski pants, the oversize padded vests.

Analyzing the collection it is evident a small quantity of trousers. Exactly 5 out of 48 outfits, declined in two different models: trousers with classic lines and soft ski pants. a product category that is widely developed, even through numerous sub-categories, is that of dresses.

21 out of 48 outfits: it seems to represent an over assortment, as some models even seem to repeat themselves without major changes.

The category of skirts is also widely developed, there are various models made with different materials, printed and woven.

Together with the skirts, the tops are also widely present but unlike the skirts, the tops have a unique shape that surrounds the breast, draping the fabric.

This category could therefore be expanded by developing new forms.

conclusions Trends:

-use of the silk, petticoat style, adherence, undefined stitching, padded jacket, scarf as embellishment, fluorescent colors, paillettes details, layered details

Numbers: Outerwear (6) 11.5% Nylon oversize jacket (2) 33% Shearling button up Coat (2) 33% Bell short sleeves tailored coat (2) 33%

Strapless Top (6) 11.5% Knitted mini top (3) 50% Plastic fringed mini top (2) 33% Leather mini top (1) 16.6%

Skirts (8) 15% Knee A-line skirt (6) 75% Midi pleated skirt (1) 12.5% Knee pareo skirt (1) 12.5%

Pants (3) 6% Integrated belt tailores trousers (2) 66.6% High waist ski nylon pants (1) 33.3%

Pullover (4) 8% Oversize branded pullover (2) 50% Zip opening neck sweater (2) 50%

Activewear (10) 19% Branded jersey turtleneck (6) 60% Oversize padded vest (2) 20% Sleeveless doubled button up coat (2) 20%

Dresses (15) 29% Sleeveless neck line cocktail dress (6) 40% Sleeveless crew neck dress (5) 33.3% Strapless tight waist midi dress (3) 20% Long sleeveless slim dress (1) 6.6%

conclusions Initial conclusions:

-adding garments total black in nylon pocono, the iconic fabric of the maison -enriching neoprene product categories, using it in different colors -developing skirt or trousers in flat jacquard knit technique -repeat argyle pattern in different product categories, such as skirt, dress or trousers -declining plastic fringed surface in other variants -adding garments with logo in a casual way -diversify fluorescent colors expanding product categories -adding several pants diversifying shapes, colors and fabrics -developing new shapes and colors of top and sweater product categories

1

2

3

90s Mini dress with ruffles, front opening, short sleeves

Short puffy coat, ultra padded, zip front opening

Trasparent chiffon midi dressed, layered from the waist down

6

7

8

Soft trousers with print

Monochrome silky trousers, fluorescent color

Ribbed knit shirt, stripes of different colors

4 Evening dress monochrome, asymmetrical cut

9 Layered detail, fabric on fabric (cuffs, neck, hem)

5 Classical shirt, full of different colors paillettes

10 Paillette detail (on collar, as knitting, as patter, all over)

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Details

bell sleeves

Alexander Wang / Nordstrom

Rachel Roy / Macy’s

Nic and Zoe / Macy’s

Moncler / Nordstroms

T Tahari / Bloomingdale’s

Rebecca Taylor / Nordstrom

Ribbed turtleneck pullover with shortrowed cuffs.

Color ivory.

Price: $550.00 Fabric content: 100% Cotton

Multi color stripes top, layered cuffs.

Price: $129.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Bell sleeves, fashioned with beads sweater.

Price: $430.00 Fabric content: 66% Cotton 34% Metallic fibers

Layer on layer

Prague Ruffle Trim Hooded Jacket. Ruffled jacket that’s both feminine and functional thanks to its drawcord hood and elasticized cuffs Price: $1105.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Ruffle-Front Blouse, V-neck Long sleeves Asymmetric cascading front ruffle Rounded hem Price: $88.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Ruffle Detail Metallic Silk Blend Camisole.

Price: $275.00 Fabric content: 68% Silk 32% Lurex® metallic fibers

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Romantic issue

FLOWER ISSUE

Reformation / Nordstrom

Kate Spade / Nordstrom

C/MEO Collective / Nordstrom

Paule Ka / Bloomingdale’s

BCBGENERATION / Bloomingdale’s

Bardot / Bloomingdale’s

A floral print makes a fresh statement on a buttonfront top that’s a casualchic standout.

Price: $128.00 Fabric content: 100% viscose

Allover floral lace appliqués Sheer details and front inverted pleats at fluid skirt.

Grosgrain trims.

Price: $1330.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Reboot your wardrobe for the new season with this puffed-sleeve sweater brightly colored in a garden of flowers.

Price: $268.00 Fabric content: 51% viscose, 27% polyester, 12% polyamide, 10%

Sheer Embroidered Organza Anorak, Allover tonal botanical embroidery.

Price: $148.00 Fabric content: 82% Polyester 18% Nylon

Elate Strapless Dress, Bodyskimming fit through bust, waist and hips Price: $190.00 Fabric content: 55% Cotton 40% Polyester 5% Elastane

Cherie Dobby Dress.

Sophisticated and elegant lace trim accentuates a dobby dress.

Price: $278.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Sequins

shirt/sweater/top

Iro /Neiman Marcus Natesa Sequin ShortSleeve Tee. Solid crew neckline.

Short sleeves. Dropped shoulders.

Price: $515.00 Fabric content: 85% Rayon 15% Spandex

INC / Macy’s

INC International Concepts Sequin Colorblock Sweater, Created for Macy’s. V-neck.

Price: $99.50 Fabric content: 68% Rayon 32% Nylon

Iro / Neiman Marcus Ernet Sequin Halter Top. Halter V neckline, Sleeveless, Relaxed fit.

Curved hem.

Price: $390.00 Fabric content: 80% Polyester 15% Viscose 5% Spandex.

Sanctuary / Bloomingdale’s

Striped Wide, Leg Pants 100% Exclusive. Banded waist with attached self-tie detail.

Price: $325.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester lining: 100% rayon

Aidan by Aidan Mattox/Neiman Marcus

Striped Sequin T-Shirt, crew neckline, short sleeves.

Standard silhouette.

Cropped at hip length.

Price: $175.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

No Ka Oi /Neiman Marcus

Palale Sequin FauxLeather Cropped Hoodie.

Drawstring hood.

Long sleeves.

Price: $512.00 Fabric content: 85% Polyester 5% Spandex 5% Nylon

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Trousers

TYPE of trousers

Helmut Lang /Neiman Marcus

PSWL /Neiman Marcus

Flight Straight-Leg Belted.

Mid-rise; tonal adjustable belt. Side pockets; zipper pockets.

Price: $540.00 Fabric content: 85% Cotton 15% Nylon

PSWL Drawstring Parachute Shorts.

Side pockets; back pockets.

Relaxed fit Price: $275.00 Fabric content: 100% Nylon

Kate Spade / Nordstrom

Pistola / Bloomingdale’s

Patch pockets and a trapunto-stitched waistband put a utilitychic spin on pants cut with culotte-style wide legs in brushed stretch-cotton twill.

Price: $248.00 Fabric content:

Tonal stitching, silver-tone logo hardware, belt loops Rhinestone-embellished front.

Price: $128.00 Fabric content: 95% Cotton 5% Spandex

No Ka Oi /Neiman Marcus

No Ka Oi “Aquarium” pants with contrast side stripes.

Elastic waistband, Side slip pockets.

Price: $304.00 Fabric content: Nylon/spandex/viscose/ polyester.

Rebecca Taylor / Neiman Marcus

Scallop-Edge Suit Pants.

Scalloped high-rise waistband and scalloped trim along side seams.

Price: $395.00 Fabric content: 82% Cotton 16% Viscose 2% Elastane

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Stripes

multicolor stripes

No Ka Oi /Neiman Marcus

Topshop /Nordstrom

Moncler/Nordstrom

Bar III /Nordstrom

Karen Millen / Bloomingdale’s

Veronica Beard / Neiman Marcus

No Ka Oi “Ka Paa” short dress with satiny contrast panels. Scoop neckline, sleeveless, shift silhouette.

Racerback Price: $252.00 Fabric content: 85% Nylon 15% Spandex5

Metallic Surplice Pullover Sweater, Created for Macy’s.

Price: $69.50 Fabric content: 48% Rayon 40% Polyester 12% Metallic

Ribbed top with big, bold stripes knit from soft cotton yarns. Crewneck, long sleeves.

Price: $60.00 Fabric content: 100% Cotton

Striped Wide, Leg Pants 100% Exclusive. Banded waist with attached self-tie detail.

Price: $325.00 Fabric content: 85% Viscose pocket lining 100% acetate

Modern metallic stripes contrast with retrocolored ones in this supple crewneck pullover that channels iconic Italian skiwear.

Price: $430.00 Fabric content: 66% Cotton 34% Metallic fibers

Veronica Beard Dulce Striped Scoop-Neck Sleeveless Dress. A-line silhouette. Knee-length hem.

Price: $550.00 Fabric content: 90% Viscose 10% Elite® polyester

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Inspirations_Dresses

asymmetrical monochrome evening dress

Topshop/Nordstrom

Lace Back Satin Slipdress.

Boast a sultry silhouette in this satiny slipdress styled with lacy accents, a strappy tie-back and a soaring front slit.

Price: $100.00 Fabric content: 52% Viscose 48% Polyester

Halston Heritage / Bloomingdale’s

Pleated Dress, Bodyskimming fit through bust and waist; relaxed fit through hips. Non-stretch fabric.

Price: $645.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Helmut Lang/Neiman Marcus Slip lavender dress in charmeuse, V neckline and back.

Spaghetti straps with shoulder ties, fluid fit.

Raw edge hem.

Price: $550.00 Fabric content: 100% Viscose

Avery G / Bloomingdale’s

Pleated Metallic Dress.

Scoop neck, Sleeveless, seamed waist, asymmetric dropped skirt seam.

Price: $268.00 Fabric content: 90% Polyester 10% Spandex

BCBGMAXAZRIA/ Bloomingdale’s

Flutter Crepe Gown.

V-neck, square back, Asymmetric tiered-flounce bust overlay.

Asymmetric high/low flounced cutaway hem.

Price: $298.00 Fabric content: 100% Polyester

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Conclusions_vendors/trends

Exploring the market, in particular the options of four major clothing retail chains, ie Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, I identified common trends that are repeated in the various stores even though they vary in product categories and price levels. Among the identified trends, the first one that catches your eye is the love for sequins this season. Starting from Neiman Marcus, the most luxurious of the four, there are many garments in which the sequins are declined in two different ways: either the garment is totally sprinkled with sequins (sometimes double-faced, or with different colors to form drawings) , or they are declined as details, forming colored bands or edges.

Sequins are present in almost all product categories, from tops to overalls, through dresses and sweatshirts. It is easier to find sequined clothes on a transparent nylon base, in stores like Macy’s.

At Nordstrom there are few garments in which sequins can be found, they are found almost exclusively in evening dresses, so not as a casualwear trend.

The brilliance of the sequins in knitwear is declined with metal fibles that illuminate the texture and warp of many pullovers, giving them a special light.

The ever-present stripes, this season are the true protagonists of color, can be found in all four stores and are used by all brands, from the most expensive to the cheapest. The stripes are accompanied by access colors and metallic fibers.

The multicolored stripes are easily seen in stores like Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, less in Macy’s, which offers more classic and more traditional stripes with more subtle colors.

Ruffles along with sequins are the perfect embellishment of the season. The ruffles are declined as details, they are present especially in the lines of the seams, or they follow the hem.

They may be different sizes, usually larger in evening dresses, such as those found by Bloomingdale’s, or less obvious in Nordstrom’s tops or mini dresses.

The trend, perhaps more evident and expanded to oil stain in the different retails, is that of the slip dress. Usually they are in silk for luxury brands, like Helmut Lang by Neiman Marcus, or in viscose. The predominant colors are pastel and have solid colors. Their simplicity is sometimes broken by ruffles that surround the edge.

The drapery never goes out of fashion, and also this season in the four stores there are many garments in which draperies are visible, both central and lateral, especially in mini dresses that recall the 80s, full of colors and glitter.

Details: -bell sleeves: shape of the sleeves visible in some blouses, in particular on garments sold

by Macy’s.

- raw edges: detail of undefined stitching, visible in slip dress by Neiman Marcus, or in pullover.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Conclusions_bullet points

LOOK 1 top: Printed sleeveless turtleneck, brand detail and zipper front opening (Polyester 75% Rayon 20% Spandex 5%). bottom: Slip dress, this straps, ruffle detailed on hem, in black nylon pocono. (Nylon 80% Silk 20%)

LOOK 2 top: Sportsweare branded jacket. Coulisse on waist and cuffs (Nylon 100%). bottom: Multi color plaid bell-bottom pants.

Hight waist with belt detail. Patch pockets and a trapunto-stitched waistband. (85% wool, 15% cotton).

LOOK 3

LOOK 4 top: Sportswear pink turtleneck with Logo stripe jacquard (Nylon96% Lycra 4%). bottom: Layers tulle mini vamp dress, fine straps, tight waist (Polyester 80% Silk 20%).

LOOK 5 top: Ribbed top with short sleeves, sequins details (Cotton 55% Polyester 45%). bottom: Sequins surface palazzo pants, belt detail and hight waist (Gabardine cotton 65% Polyester 35%).

LOOK 6 top: Ribbed knit turtleneck with floral sequins detail,creating horizontal stripes. (100% cotton) bottom: Fringed shorts.

PVC plastic detail allover.

(100% cotton/PVC).

top: Strapless nylon pocono top with the adding of tulle long and wide sleeves (Nylon 65% Polyester 35%). bottom: Knee pareo skirt, with layers interest and tulle below (82% cotton, 16% viscose, 2% elastan).

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Retailor recap_keys

Neiman Marcus

Nordstrom

Macy’s

Bloomingdale’s

Neiman Marcus Group, Inc. is an American chain of luxury department stores owned by the Neiman Marcus Group, headquartered in Dallas, Texas. Its target market is consumers who are in the top 2% of the income bracket in the U.S. Neiman Marcus stores have huge spaces and clothing are placed in an orderly and clearly way. Products are elegant displayed and presents an excellence merchandising. The environment and the furniture are mostly white and gold, colors that remember luxury world.

Personally, I found Neiman Marcus the most organized, with refined, non-trivial garments.

Macy’s (originally R. H. Macy & Co.) is an American department store chain founded in 1858 by Rowland Hussey Macy. As of 2015, Macy’s was the largest U.S. department store company by retail sales. As of February 2019, there were 584 full-line stores with the Macy’s nameplate in operation throughout the United States, Puerto Rico, and Guam.

Its flagship store is located at Herald Square in the Manhattan borough of New York City. Macy’s, in comparison with others, is the most affordable. It offers different lower brands. The store merchandising is not clear and a little bit muddler.

Nordstrom Inc. is an American chain of luxury department stores, also operating in Canada and headquartered in Seattle, Washington. Founded in 1901 by Swedish American John W. Nordstrom and Carl F. Wallin, the company began as a shoe retailer and expanded its inventory to include clothing, accessories, handbags, jewelry, cosmetics, and fragrances. Select Nordstrom stores also include wedding and home furnishings departments. In comparison with Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom is more mainstream and trend-driven, led to attract youger target with lower income availability. The enviroment is modern.

Bloomingdale’s Inc. is an American department store chain; it was founded by Joseph B. and Lyman G. Bloomingdale in 1861. Its headquarters and flagship store are located at 59th Street and Lexington Avenue in the New York City borough of Manhattan. It appeals to a younger target market, as we can see in their advertisements. Bloomingdale’s sells designer handbags, shoes, clothing, jewelry, makeup and fragrances. Company appreciate quality products and value nice things. It offers to customers several sales, free returns and special shopping events.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Key conclusions

bullet points 1. THE ICONIC FABRIC.

Implementing the offer of pocono nylon garments, iconic material for the maison, in particular in the original color, black. Nylon in the collection is widely used but in fluorescent shades and not characteristic for the brand. hence the choice to add total black and total nylon garments. This choice also favors a good communication of the aesthetics of the brand to lead to a greater sale.

2. THE BRANDING.

Following the long-established trend, adding garments with a strong Prada identity also through the use of patterns, prints or jacquards with the logo. The use of the logo as a detail of the garment favors the approach of a younger target, such as that of millennials.

3. TREND DETAILS.

Using embellishment, details, prints or applications analyzed during the days at Coterie and King of Prussia, during which sequins and stripes were defined in bright colors, almost fluo, which perfectly match the Prada FW18 collection.

4. SKU.

Homogenizing the different categories and sub-categories analyzed through the sku, adding garments when there are underdeveloped categories and diversify details, shapes, materials and colors.

5. KEY ELEMENTS.

The Prada FW18 collection has strong elements that characterize the collection, one of which is the plastic fringe surface, diversified into a few categories and subcategories. hence the choice to diversify the strong points of the collection by analyzing the sku.

6. IT-PRODUCTS.

Adding key items that respond to the trends of the season and that are usually present in all competitors, this addition favors sales as even the brand offers the product of the moment with its own style. During the days in Coterie and King of Prussia, it was possible to see the products and the leading details of the season: slip dress, usually in silk with fine straps, like raw edges, ruffles and layers.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line addition_Overview

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

1. line addition number one Description.

Fitted turtleneck sleeveless in jersey knit, printed with logo “prada� pattern. Zip-front, red Prada detail hardware. Ribbed collar in black.

Fabric.

Polyester 75% Rayon 20% Spandex 5%

Why?

Pullover throughout the collection is an underrepresented category (8%). Through this line addition some important elements are put together: the importance to branded garments through a print pattern and an iconic brand color, the red prada in the zip hardware; the top under the dress trend, that it has been possible to see during Coterie and King of Prussia days.

2. line addition number TWO Description.

Slip midi dress in nylon pocono and silk. V-neck with fine straps. Slim silhouette with raw-edge details.

Fabric.

Nylon 80% Silk 20%

Why?

fabric swatch #2

fabric swatch #1

Adding black nylon pocono garment has been one of the initial and most important bullet point to develop line additions to FW 18, in fact this collection has the aim to revive the iconic fabric of the maison: Troughout the collection itĂŹs possible to see the nylon in several color ways but the black one is underrepresented, from this analyse a new line addition was born and it joins the iconic element to a seasonal trend, the slip silk dress and add a sewing detail: raw-edge. These two elements have been the most glaring trends during Coterie event.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

3. line addition number THREE Description.

Sportswear jacket in white nylon, tight waist. Coulisse on cuffs and waist. Zipper front.

Printed branded logo pattern

Fabric.

Nylon 100%

Why?

The FW18 collection, despite being very sporty, did not have a sport jacket, this line addition completes the different sportswear offer of the brand in all categories.

The nylon jacket has parts printed with the brand’s revisited logo, following the brandization perspective in order to be more appealing and recognizable to the younger market.

4. line addition number FOUR Description.

Multi color plaid bell-bottom pants. Hight waist with belt detail. Patch pockets and a trapunto-stitched waistband.

Fabric.

Wool 85% Cotton 15%

Why?

fabric swatch #4

fabric swatch #3

These pants respond to the lack of wool items in the trousers category, and the plaid was not used throughout the collection.

The choice of adding another pant is given by the fact that the category of trousers was very underdeveloped compared to the others.

This pant has a different shape than the previous one and is totally different in the fabric as well .

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

5. line addition number five Description.

Strapless top in black nylon pocono, with the addition of wide and long sleeves and a round collar in tulle.

Fabric.

Nylon 65% Polyester 35%

Why?

This top responds to the need to diversify the category of tops in the collection (11,5%), in fact although they are made of different materials they have an almost equal shape. The pocono nylon top is different both for the material used and for the addition of long sleeves in tulle, a material in the collection that brings a touch of romanticism to the various sports looks.

6. line addition number six Description.

Knee pareo skirt in nylon pocono. Layers detail. Tulle layers.

Fabric.

Nylon 65% Polyester 35%

Why?

fabric swatch #5-6

fabric swatch #5-6

Through this line addition the subcategory of skirts is enriched, in particular that of the knee pareo skirt, in which only one model was present. The skirt is made of pocono nylon, the iconic material of the Prada brand, through different layers that are composed one on top of the other, then ending with different layers of tulle.

Top and skirt create a suit, responding perfectly to the second theme analyzed, tulloff, the union between romanticism and work.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

7. line addition number seven Description.

Fitted sportswear turtleneck in jersey knit, fine gauge. Long slim sleeves. Jacquard logo in a contrasting color. Zip-front opening.

Fabric.

Polyester nylon 100%

Why?

This turtleneck goes perfectly with the original collection and goes even further towards sportswear. this line addition has been inserted above all to be combined with the dress with ruffle above because we want to highlight how the sharp contrast of styles actually combines perfectly. An important key point of the garment is the branding of the turtleneck through a jacquard pattern logo.

8. line addition number eight Description.

Ruffled mini vamp tulle dress with fine straps. Tight corset up waist and full of layered ruffles down.

Fabric.

Polyester 80% Silk 20%

Why?

fabric swatch #8

fabric swatch #7

The 80’s mini vamp dress is a strong seasonal trend, as it is possible to ascertain in several retails in King of Prussia and Coterie. Since it is such a strong trend, it is smart to put a very salable garment in the collection, although the clothing category is already widely developed. the dress also features particular details such as ruffles and overlays, recurring themes in the collection.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

9. line addition number nine Description.

Ribbed knit pullover with short sleeves. Horizontal stripes creating through sequins

Fabric.

Cotton 55% Polyester 45%

Why?

This line addition is important to diversify the top category in the collection.

This knit jersey top features short sleeves and two details, used by different brands, the sequins (with different shades of color) that together form the horizontal stripes.

10. line addition number ten Description.

Palazzo pants, full of sequins. High waist with belt detail. Ruffle detail on waist.

Fabric.

Gabardine cotton 65% Polyester 35%

Why?

fabric swatch #10

fabric swatch #9

This pant adds to the underdeveloped category of trousers. The sequins are the real protagonists of the garment, they are scattered all over and form the surface making the trousers a very strong item, in true Prada style. The choise to use sequins as surface is justified by the huge quantity of sequins garment is possible to see on several retails.

Prada RTW Fall Winter 2018

Line additions

11. line addition number ELEVEN Description.

Ribbed turtleneck in knitted jersey. Long sleeves. Floral sequins stripes horizontally.

Fabric.

Cotton 100% - Plastic

Why?

Pullover throughout the collection is an underrepresented category (8%). Through this line addition the pullover category is enriched by another pullover with a particular detail: floral sequins creating horizontal stripes. Sequins and stripes are two details shown in several luxurious chains. In Prada FW18 Collection, sequind are combined with romantic tulle dresses, through this third line addition sequins are declined in a casual way, in order to be worn even by the youngest.

12. line addition number TWELVE Description.

PVC-fringes multilayer shorts. Elastic high waist with grey lace.

Fabric.

Cotton 65% Polyester 35% - Plastic

Why?

fabric swatch #12

fabric swatch #11

The pvc-fringes shorts belongs to the most underrepresented category of the collection with its 6%: pants. The yellow shorts have a bell-shaped silhouette, visible in many of the brands analyzed during King of Prussia’s day.

The pants are characterized by layers of plastic fringes, a key and very recognizable element of the fw18 collection, in which it was declined in different categories, dress, top and skirt, but not in the category of trousers. Therefore, through this line addition, an underdeveloped category is strengthened and a key detail is diversified into a new category.

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