Building brand identity / spring 2019 branding assignment Debora Ferrara
d e s i g n e r f a s h i o n
Labelled as the “world’s most influential designer” (Fashion. telegraph.co.uk, 2011), Marc Jacobs became the yougest designer to win the CFDA Perris Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent in 1987 after launging his namesake brand the previous year and showcasing his first collection under the eponymous label. Marc Jacob’s career really arose once beginning to study BFA Fashion Design at Parsons School of Design in New York, where he designed and sold his first line of handknit sweaters. After his studies in 1922, Jacobs was given the title of vice president and head designer of womenswear at Perry Ellis, yet despite this, he was subsequently dismissed in 1993 “after Jacobs sent out a “grunge” collection for the label that critics loved but company hated” (Biography.com,2017). Jacob’s aim with this collection was to stay away from the clean-cut image of the Perry Ellis label and so sent out “unorthodox combintions, such as flowered; girlish dresses paired with combat boots, to achieve a dishevelled and individualistic look.” (Nolen, n.d.). Just a year later in 1993, Jacobs Duffy Designs Inc. created their own licensing and design company “Marc Jacobs International Company, L.P.” which therefore relaunched the Marc Jacobs brand and then a year later they relased and debuted a menswear line. Four years after that, in 1997, Jacob’s opened his first boutique on New York’s Mercer Street located in Soho. As well as this, Marc Jacobs signed on as creative director for the luxury brand Louis Vuitton and strengthened their reputation by designing the company’s first line of ready-to-wear clothing and expanded their line of accessories. Up until 2001, the Marc Jacobs brand only had it’s one clothing line, howevere in this year, the brand extended and formed the “Marc by Marc Jacobs” line which supplied sportswear and “was created to offer a much more affordable alternative to the original collection.” (Shoemetro. com, n.d.). Marc Jacobs extended his brand by introducing its first watch collection in collaboration with Fossil in 2005 and just two years later in 2007, the brand further expanded their product categories by launching a children’s line: Little Marc Jacobs, their first eyewear collection courtesy of Marc by Marc Jacobs and finally their first fragrance: Daisy. In 2015 Marc by Marc Jacobs was no longer a diffusion line as it was mergered with the designers primary collection. The company “Marc Jacobs” is nowadays a leading and well-established name within the fashion industry, having a wide presence internationally and also has a wide clothing and accessory range. The products offered by the brand lie in the premium fashion segment due to their luxury range which provides high quality, style and value towards their consumers. The company belongs to LVMH is a french based, luxury goods amalgam, it focusing on high quality products.
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Marc Jacobs is one of the most influential fashion designers oh his generation and it comes down to the fact that he does not follow the rules. He is anti establishment, anti adult, and antislick. He started off a salso being anti marketing however he has come to learn that in this day and age, marketing is key. It i salso a fact you don’t know what to expect at his fashion shows, and that is what makes the Marc Jacobs brand what is today. For thirty years Marc Jacobs has been able to shape the boundaries of american fashion. The indefinable characteristics of his namesake label are the result of a unique, uncommonly frank and brilliantly outspoken perspective. His collections are known to bring an element of surprise as each season, every year, they change and they are considerably different to the previous. He loves to take what is deemed “everyday” and turn it into something luxurious. Possibly one of the greatest thing about his legacy is that while people seem to not know what they went untile they see it, everybody wants something with the Marc Jacobs label.
“Marc seems to have lived more than the most, seen more than the most, survived more than most, and he somehow knows exactly what to appropriate, what to sample, where to draw inspiration from.” Anna Wintour
“One thing that is exciting about fashion is the surprise element. People don’t know what they want. They just know when they see it.” Marc Jacobs
We create these values by focusing particularly on creating innovate trends amongst our consumers and market our products towards elite class women and men and professionals living in urban areas such as New York. I forced the intersection of pop culture and high society, always a maverick, constantly taking risks. We don’t have a personal mission statement because we think it changes over time, however our parent group, LVMH has a group mission on it’s own official website: “preserved heritage with a dynamic engagement with modernity; making the houses ambassadors af a distinctively refined art de vivre”.
faithful
We have three imperatives that inspire excellence and in the long run constitute the pillars of our performance and our success; deliver excellence, be cultive and entrepreneuial in spirit and be creative and innovative.
Values.
Marc Jacobs remains to what has defined his brand since 1984 and that is the fact that he is able to reinvent the codes of style. The brand has always been about two simple concepts: a
commitment to quality and a love of fashion.
Marc Jacobs is original, rebellious, unpredictable, unique and authentic all at the same time.
Marc Jacobs is the founder name, this means that it allows potential of brand extensions, from clothing to such as watches and perfumes, and allows a changing brand image. Marc Jacobs is a simple and effective name. To those who have the brand knowledge, they will associate the name to quality designs, as Marc has always been dedicated to ensuring his designs are of excellent quality. It is also internationally valid, with no threat of causing offense to other nationalities. The Marc Jacobs is a simple logotype, easily recognised and is versatile-easily change. It is chosen a based on a typeface called Engravers Gothic Bold, it can be found in historical architecture and was used for public communication and display, all of them sources of Marc Jacobs’ inspirations. The weights of the styles of this typeface went from quite light to very heavy causing thickthin contrast issues for the interpolated instances. This kind of simplistic and minimal symbol embraces several and versatile audience’s likings. The aim was to create a neutral logo that had great clarity, and could be used on a wide variety of occasions.
v i s ua l i d e n t i t y.
The Marc Jacobs label is “Marc Jacobs”, sometimes followed by the company address, in order to reinforce the theme of genius loci, in this case the multiethnic and effervescent culture of New York City, in white or black background. The first label for the off-shoot line was the same black background with “Marc” in white and “Jacobs” in light gray, as if faded or blacked out, in order to make it less formal and closer to younger consumer. That didn’t work out for editorial credit purposes; magazines were stumped by the same name in two tones. It was changed into a new one where it can see a logotype’s game, such as “Jacobs by Marc Jacobs for Marc by Marc Jacobs. The company wanted to play with the name of its founder in order to create curiosity and reinforce brand awareness.
The brand hangtag is clean, serious, legible and it’s very neutral. This simplicity is explained by the fact that often the garment is very particular and colorful, so the hangtag gives way to the clothes. The hangtag can change his material depending on the garments or accessories in which it is. The hangtag’s typeface is different from the logotype and it is explained by the gain to make it very tecnique and useful to consumers.
In the past Marc Jacobs had a strong approach to branding and packaging, in fact, his products were marketed with a consistent brand image trough the use of all-over pattern as well. Now the aesthetic is very clear, due to a general luxury minimalism as well. In some package it is possible see decorations with black ribbons and flakes: these kind of decoration is added when the product is dedicated to a romantic and dreamer woman. Otherwise Marc Jabobs company aims to mantain an excellent brand corporate image, in the packaging as well.
M a r k e t s e c to r s .
Ready to wear: there is never a set style within the collections that label creates. However it can always see the distinct cross between street style and high fashion. Childrenswear: Little Marc Jacobs Shoes Bags Eyewear Accessories: Marc has a collection of accessories ranging from watching and jewelry, to phone cases and scarves. Beauty & fragrance: most fashion houses have leather goods to be identified by, Marc Jacobs house has fragrance and it has beauty. Make up is an integral part of the fashion world and that is why his beauty collection has so much success.
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Marc Jacobs key competitors concentrate on the luxury brands that own the ascendancy of women’s fashion. The luxury fashion market is fragmented highly and characterized by presence of a few large global companies and many smaller independant ones. First and foremost the Marc Jacobs competitors present within the same parent group are CÊline, Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Givenchy. They are fashion houses that sell a similar range of products with a similar price point. Kering is one of the major competitors of LVMH and work under the same pretence, it is home to the likes of Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Gucci, all of whom could pose a strong competitor for Marc Jacobs. As well as LVMH and Kering, there are other companies such as Richemont, home to Chloe, or Prada, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci, Proenza Schouler who have similar aesthetics to Marc Jacobs.
high price
low quality
low price
Website/social. Brand communication is vital in the world of
fashion and this is why Marc Jacobs is so in touch with social media, naturally it drives traffic to the Marc Jacobs website. It is present on Youtube, Facebook and Instagram with more that 8 milions followers. The website is easy to navigate due to clear headings and subheadings. Prices are clearly visible and there is a good customer service: online store, membership option to simplify and speed up the purchasing process in order to give a good user experience to online customers.
M a r ke tin g st rat e gy / a dver ti s i ng
Marc Jacobs company has been known to use to go all out in terms of marketing. He likes to use unexpected models in his campaigns. During 12 years, the photographer Juergen Teller has collaborated in his campaigns of woman, man, perfumes and accessories. Teller expose unknown models or famous celebrities in strange and uncommon situations. For example the campaign where Victoria Beckham is inside a Marc Jacobs shopping bag. Teller’s idiosyncratic visual style and use of unusual models has been instrumental in establishing what has become the brand over the years. In 2014 it was announced that Jacobs’s new Spring/Summer collection would feature actress/ singer Miley Cyrus, photographed by David Sims. Marc Jacobs advertising campaigns are raw, ecclectic and sexually suggestive. It’s a weird approach that sometimes doesn’t show the selling product. These kind of campaigns are tought for an audience who want to be different in the way they dress but also think. He’s used several celebrities in advertising campaign or they are frequently seen wearing pieces of the clothing line. Victoria Beckham (most important past spokeperson) / Ben affleck (king magazine dec 2010) / Mia (marc by marc Jacobs spring campaign, 2008) / Miley cyrus / Helena bonham / Winona ryder / Alexa chang (spring 2008 campaign) / Sofia coppola / Dakota fanning.
SS 2016
resort 2017
provocation
show contrast between normal everyday life
SS 2018
SS 2018
FW 2013
sense of eccentrity SS 2013
brings out the originals of designs
THE ROLE OF SOCIAL MEDIA
MARC JACOBS PERSONAL ACCOUNT Marc Jacobs about Instagram: everybody would think a progressive designer like Marc Jacobs would be experimenting with the next wave of technology needed to push a fashion brand forward, but alas, the 55-year-old New Yorker is as analogue as ever. That is, however, aside from his somewhat recent venture into Instagram which he downloaded only four years ago. His decision in 2015 to join Instagram is interesting, happened soon after the announce that Marc by Marc Jacobs would be folding into his main line, and also after he publicly disparaged the use of social media in an interview. “I am so appalled by the whole social media thing,” he told Vogue International’s Suzy Menkes. “I don’t get it, it doesn’t appeal to me, neither does a computer, or working on a laptop.” Instagram, of course, is a very prominent social media outlet. So it’s not unreasonable to think that Jacobs joined to Instagram to make himself and his brand more IPO-friendly. Jacobs believes the biggest joy in social media is when people feel your humanity and realize that you are more than just a brand. Share the success of the event across own channels and a thank attendees, sponsors, and client is a good move that the designer understands and for this reason Jacobs takes time to respond to a few comments when he has a free moment, which means he does a directly engage with the comments and DMs being sent across the platforms. On what he secretly enjoys following on Instagram: “I follow friends. I like looking at that thing with the magnifying glass (the Discover feature). Things that are very satisfying. like cutting through butter with a hot knife. I look at that (Instagram Discover) to find things that the computer god decided what I’d be interested in. That all knowing entity that knows what you’ll like.” On what gets the most likes on Instagram: “My bag from Hermes, or a selfie with my clothes off, or cuddling with my dog, or food. There are certain things that seem to appeal to the larger amount of my followers but I don’t post them deliberately. If it weren’t fun and I didn’t enjoy it, I wouldn’t do it.”
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“I don’t think my personal account as a marketing tool; it’s more about my ego than a marketing tool. I’m not sure posting a photo of myself generates dollars. Maybe it makes me more accessible and human. I do answer some people. I can’t do it with everybody. I think part of the joy or the beauty of social media is that you can affect people and they can feel a little more connected to you and sense your humanity in some way. That you’re just not a brand, you’re a human being who puts their pants on one leg at a time.” Marc Jacobs
THE ROLE OF SOCIAL MEDIA
MARC JACOBS COMPANY ACCOUNT Marc Jacobs is one of a number of fashion companies looking to exploit digital channels to make their brands feel more inclusive. Since 2014, the company has used social media as a tool for both the brand and the users, almost all the campaigns launched online have had a double advantage, one for the company and the other for the audience, not counting the increase in brand awareness. With the various social campaigns, Marc Jacobs was able to create a remarkable engagement giving his audience what he wanted, his products or visibility. Over the years company has produced several social media campaigns, among the most successful there are: - 2014: Tweet Shop by Marc Jacobs (Twitter, Facebook, & Instagram); - 2014: #CastMeMarc by Marc Jacobs (Instagram & Twitter); - 2017: Marc Jacobs recruited vloggers to front its beauty campaign. - 2019: Marc Jacobs Beauty Creates Role for YouTuber NikkieTutorials: Nikkie de Jager has joined the brand as its first global artistry adviser. With social media enabling users to share unfiltered feedback on an endless range of topics, fashion firms and their top executives are feeling the pressure to not only have an online presence but to carefully manage the platform. As more consumers turn to digital media to discuss social and civic issues, brands are finding themselves under a new kind of microscope. When models walked the runway in sky-high platform shoes, in New York Spring 2017, few could have expected that it would be the models’ hairstyles making the headlines. Model’s dreadlocked hairdos prompted a wave of criticism across social media accusing Jacobs of cultural appropriation. The designer took to his personal Instagram account to address the backlash — first defending his creativity, then later apologizing for his response to critics. “I apologize for the lack of sensitivity unintentionally expressed by my brevity. I wholeheartedly believe in freedom of speech and freedom to express oneself art, clothes, words, hair, music,” Jacobs posted on Instagram.
20 14 : Tw e e t Sh op by Marc Jacobs ( T w i t te r , Face b oo k , & I nstagra m)
During New York Fashion Week in 2014 Marc Jacobs set out to achieve a social media initiative. The concept stems from a conversation the brand had with Facebook, which identified them as one of the top fragrances engaged with their followers on the site. Marc Jacob’s Daisy fragrance isn’t the most followed on Facebook, but its fans are among the most loyal — from posting about the brand to even drawing pictures that represent its message and style. His pop-up “Tweet Shop” provided fans with an opportunity to pay for products using social media posts as their currency. Marc Jacobs created a campaign that was geared towards a more mutual benefit. The submitted images stirred up some attention and the customers will be rewarded for their participation. Called the Daisy Marc Jacobs Tweet Shop, located in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, the concept store is embracing “social currency.” By snapping photos and posting messages with the hashtag #MJDaisyChain, visitors are awarded with Marc Jacobsbranded gifts when exiting the store. This ranges from perfume and necklaces to even purses (the best Instagram photo of the day will win a handbag). Each visitor then visits the front counter to receive a gift. Customers who stop into the Tweet Shop can also get free manicures, take selfies in the Daisy photo booth and of course, check out the new line of Daisy products.
20 14 & 2 0 15 : # Cast Me Marc by Ma r c Jaco bs ( I nstag ram & Twi tter)
Through this initiative Marc Jacobs has replaced models for social media fans in its latest advertising campaign, in this way the company found fresh talent and has built brand awareness at the same time. For the chance to star in the fashion icon’s next campaign, all audience had to do was share a own photo on Twitter or Instagram with the hashtag #CastMeMarc. Marc announced the winner of his online casting call from his personal Twitter page. Casting portfolios and highprofile models used for previous campaigns to give its adverts for its Fall 2014 and Spring 2015 range a social media twist. Nine fans appear in the ads, which will debut in the Teen Vogue August issue, after being narrowed down from more than 70,000 who applied to the open casting call in April Hopeful contestants were asked to post a photo of themselves on Instagram or Twitter with the #castmemarc hashtag. Some 30 finalists were then flown from all over the world, including Australia, New York and Russia, to demonstrate their potential in front of Jacobs. Images and behind-the-scenes videos of the casting and fashion shoot will run on the brand’s site. The campaign’s unusual casting method aims to reflect the rebellious nature of the range, which the designer describes as “credible” but “dynamic and fresh”.
20 17 : M a rc Jacob s & vlogger s fo r it s be aut y cam pai gn.
Bloggers are perceived as the third most trustworthy source of information after friends and family, which is part of the reason Marc Jacobs is banking on the vlogging community to help sell its beauty products. The #castmemarc campaign is recruiting beauty bloggers to feature in the brand’s how-to video series. Over 100,000 aspiring beauty buffs applied by sharing videos on Instagram, telling Marc Jacobs what inspires them in beauty and why the brand should feature them in the series. The five winners will feature in the brand’s beauty tutorials and appear at influencer events. “This isn’t about airbrushed perfection,” explains the campaign brief. “Marc has always been known to find beauty in authenticity and imperfection.” A full 96% of American women seek the advice of others before they buy or try new products, so by using vloggers who have grown their followings by giving their own authentic reviews, people are more likely to trust their opinion over A-list celebrity endorsements. “The content the micro-influencers produce resonates with the audience that follows them,” says Mona Akhavi, Founder and CEO of Sidebuy, the Canadian platform that connects brands with influencers and bloggers. “You really relate to them, you think they’re kind of cool, they have cool stuff.”
20 19: M a r c Jacob s B eauty & You Tu be r N ik k ie T uto rials AS a dvi ser.
The latest beauty brand-YouTuber pairing is more than just a product collaboration. Today, Marc Jacobs Beauty revealed 24-year-old YouTuber Nikkie de Jager, aka NikkieTutorials, as its first global artistry adviser. In the newly created role, de Jager will be involved in the brand’s product development process and will be tasked with expanding its content and artistry. De Jager has a sizable social media following. She counts 11.5 million YouTube subscribers, 11.6 million Instagram followers and 1.49 million Twitter followers. “I’ve always believed that makeup is a form of self expression and there is no shame in experimenting with it,” de Jager said in a statement. “Marc Jacobs shares a similar ‘shameless’ approach to beauty, which I so admire, and I quickly fell in love with his beauty products when I was first sent the Re(marc) able Full Cover Foundation concentrate a few years ago. Since then, I’ve consistently loved using Marc Jacobs Beauty products and it was after attending Marc’s fashion week show last spring that we decided to explore how, and what, we could beautifully create together.”
s t o r e r e ta i l
Jacobs has always had a passion for interiors, furniture and art, and is eager to apply his personal knowledge in a significant way. “It’s what I really love to do,” he said. “I’m pending quite a bit of time, and I’m so inspired by the opportunity to being able to do that.” He also would like to create at least a vague template for stores around the world that would reflect various collaborations with artists and furniture designers. And that may change seasonally, as with the freshly painted pink facade on the Mercer Street, West Village, store in New York. That store, the company’s first, remains dear to him. “Robert and I were fired from Perry Ellis after the grunge collection. We didn’t work for a year. We got drunk one night on red wine at, I think that restaurant on Commerce Street, and we decided to take the lease out on that store at Mercer Street, which had once been a gallery. We had the money to take the lease but we didn’t have the money to make the clothes. The only thing we did was we made shopping bags.” They had an empty store for a year, until they Arnault signed Jacobs to do Louis Vuitton. “Mr. Arnault said, ‘keep the store, go ahead go with it and I will help you and support you,’ and we started producing clothes for that store. So that store is a very important place for me and for Robert.” Jacobs pointed out that their instincts were right: “Originally, there was our store and the Mercer Hotel. Now there is Balenciaga, Prada on the corner, Marni next to us, Versace across the street. So there is something to be said for instincts or whim, whether they are drunkenly inspired or otherwise. But it wasn’t shooting an arrow up in the sky and seeing if it came back to you. We believed this little garage on Mercer Street could be a great first store.” Marc Jacobs has repeatedly kicked off commercial expansion in several locations, such as Mount Street, in London, opened in 2007, had begun the commercial expansion of the residential district of Mayfair; the area, in fact, was subsequently chosen by other luxury brands such as Céline, Christian Louboutin and Balenciaga. Even the 200sqm store in the characteristic Parisian Palais Royal was among the first to be located in the historic location followed by Stella McCartney, Rick Owens and Acne Studio. In 2010, as bookstores were disappearing from the global landscape Marc Jacobs opened its first Bookmarc store on Bleecker Street in New York’s West Village. Shortly thereafter the concept expanded to Paris, London, and Tokyo, stocking photography, fine art, fiction, music, pop culture and rare titles. In Summer 2013, there were 285 Marc Jacobs retail stores, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs Collection and BookMarc, in 60 countries. Artists, authors and icons including Carine Roitfeld, Nan Goldin, Richard Hell, Grace Coddington, and Anjelica Huston have sought out Bookmarc as a first-choice venue for book launches with friends and fans, who line the block to greet and celebrate new releases. The presence of monobrand and corner Marc by Marc Jacobs clearly exceeded those of the first line.
163 Mercer Street, Soho, New York
Palais Royal, Paris, France
Mount Street, London, UK
In March 2015, Marc Jacobs announced the end of his secondary brand Marc by Marc Jacobs in order to focus on the development of his main label Marc Jacobs and to target to a more luxury-oriented audience. According to analysts, the youngest label covered 80% of revenues. When Marc by Marc Jacobs line was discontinued and folded into the main Marc Jacobs collection, Marc Jacobs’ three M x MJ stores—Marc by Marc Jacobs Women’s (403 Bleecker Street), Marc by Marc Jacobs Men’s (382 Bleecker Street), and Marc by Marc Jacobs Accessories (301 West 4th Street) were shuttered, and at the sametime the flagship store in Mercer Street has been rented. Even the shops in Europe have suffered a drastic cut, the shops were closed in Mount Street in London, in the Palais Royal palace, in Piazza del Carmine in Milan, initially it was thought to a restyling of the store, from Mar by Marc Jacobs to Marc Jacobs, but in reality the shops have not been opened anymore. In 2017 Marc Jacobs closed the men’s line under license to Staff International and reduced the staff to the Paris office. In the last 3-4 years, analysts have estimated that the retail revenues of the brand, without considering perfumes, would have more than halved. The griffe in obvious difficulties is now in a difficult process of relaunch. In New York the Marc Jacobs brand is present in 7 points.
1. FLAGSHIP STORE MADISON AVENUE NYC Madison Avenue is a north-south avenue in the borough of Manhattan in New York City, United States. Since the 1920s, the street’s name has been metonymous with the American advertising industry, because all the most important American advertising agencies have been located there. Therefore, the term “Madison Avenue” refers specifically to the agencies and methodology of advertising. Its position, and what it can offer, has made it one of the most important shopping streets not in Manhattan, but throughout New York. Here in fact there are some of the most prestigious boutiques in the world, but also local, beauty salons, bars and restaurants, which attract every year better tourists visiting from all over the world. Retail brands with locations on Madison Avenue include: Alexander McQueen, Hermès, Tom Ford, Céline, Proenza Schouler, Lanvin, Valentino, Stuart Weitzman, Damiani, Emporio Armani, Prada, Chloé and so on. The Madison Avenue Marc Jacob store could be described as a pop-up-plus, its concept experimental and part of a new business plan that places a premium on flexibility. Marc Jacobs Madison Pop-Up Shop, is a new destination that brings to life the world of Marc Jacobs across design, lifestyle and culture.
2. BOOKMARC BLEECKER STREET NYC 400 Bleecker Street New York , NY 10014 US It’s a destination for discovery in the world of fashion, art and design. The collection is expertly curated and unique to this location, with an expanded offering of special edition vinyls, collectibles and exclusive products. Browse Marc Jacobs watches, perfume, bags, clothing, and more at a store near you. Shop one of our convenient Marc Jacobs stores, outlets or Bookmarc locations. Bleecker Street near the corner of Sullivan Street, it is a west–east street in the New York City borough of Manhattan. It is most famous today as a Greenwich Village nightclub district. The street connects a neighborhood today popular for music venues and comedy, but which was once a major center for American bohemia.
3. BERGDORF GOODMAN NYC 754 Fifth Avenue, New York It is a luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan in New York City. The company was founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf and was later owned and managed by Edwin Goodman, and later his son Andrew Goodman.
4. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE NYC 611 5th Avenue It is an American chain of luxury department stores owned by the oldest commercial corporation in North America, the Hudson’s Bay Company. Its main flagship store is located on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.
5. BARNEYS MADISON NYC 660 Madison Avenue It is an American chain of luxury department stores founded and headquartered in New York City, the selected goods belong mainly to the big fashion brands.
6/7. BLOOMINGDALE’S NEW YORK CITY 1000 Third Avenue 59th Street and Lexington Avenue 504 Broadway It’s an American department store chain; it was founded by Joseph B. and Lyman G. Bloomingdale in 1861. It became a division of the Cincinnati-based Federated Department Stores in 1994, through which it is affiliated with the Macy’s department store chain; the holding company was renamed Macy’s, Inc. in 2007. Its headquarters and flagship store are located at 59th Street and Lexington Avenue in the New York City borough of Manhattan.
grunge redux event the
Only Marc Jacobs Could Bring Grunge Uptown. After 30 years Marc Jacobs continues to unabashedly shape the boundaries of American fashion. The indefinable characteristics of his namesake label are the result of a certain unique, uncommonly frank and brilliantly outspoken perspective. Marc Jacobs continues to offer fashion and accessories through a broad spectrum of accessibility without compromising honesty and integrity. Marc Jacobs celebrated the launch of his Redux Grunge Collection in tandem with the opening of his 655 Madison Avenue pop-up store, the preferred in-house word is “residence”. The party illustrated how far the designer had come since 1993 when he first conceptualized the collection, which became the ultimate ’90s moment. For the delivery he refuses to call resort, Jacobs re-created 26 looks from what is probably the single most famous collection in American fashion history, his spring 1993 effort for Perry Ellis, as the brand’s creative director. The panorama is intentionally disorienting, with infinity mirrors multiplying the mannequin troops. Most of the figures face outward, toward the room’s perimeter. When the window boards are removed at some point tonight, the mannequins will form the window display. For fashion addicters, this opening is an event. To be seen absolutely for fashion students, the grunge installation should also fascinate young fans of civilians, many of whom were not born when the appearance struck the catwalk for the first time. For those who remember that moment, this process can be recorded with personal intensity. Everyone can use the grunge to ruminate on the role of fashion in culture - where it fits into the big scheme, because this particular strain played caustically in 1992 (when it appeared on the catwalk), and what its extraordinary currency says about fashion today and greater culture. All this should guarantee a wide traffic of shops. For the Marc Jacobs brand, the measure of success will be the way in which the collection resonates, and not simply in terms of sell-through, even if the bottom line matters a lot. Larger image, the company hopes that Redux Grunge and its new uptown enclave register with enough power and clarity to start unraveling the mess network that has revolved around the brand for several years. Over time, the company has been plagued with problems - an increasingly restrictive profile on the global fashion scene; closures of shops and sales down; the internal chaos and the massive turnover of senior staff, and the extreme confusion of customers, resulted not inconsiderable by the evident decline in the support of the business side for the Jacobs catwalk collection.
The stair risers feature LED lighting with rotating brand signage — Marc Jacobs, Redux Grunge, Daisy — and on the wall opposite the door, an 80-inch screen runs grunge-related videos, both of the new marketing variety and a golden oldie — Sonic Youth’s “Sugar Kane,” featuring the original grunge collection and a boyish, long-haired Jacobs. While Madison Avenue is the largest installation of Redux Grunge, it’s not the only one. Both Saks Fifth Avenue and Dover Street Market Los Angeles have partnered with the brand for significant installations. Madison Avenue turned grunge for a night on Monday December 3, as the newly opened Marc Jacobs store stayed open late for a private party in celebration of the Redux Grunge collection. Guests including Gigi Hadid, Kaia and Presley Gerber, Sofia Coppola, Sandra Bernhard, Stella Maxwell, Lindsey Wixson, Karen Elson, Anna Sui and more joined Jacobs and his fiancé, Char Defrancesco, donning their flannels, combat boots and Nirvana tees for the night, which featured a performance by Kim Gordon later into the evening. “The whole grunge thing was so evocative in its day,” Bernhard said from the first floor of the store. “It’s fun to revisit it — I like the philosophy of it and the freedom of art, of music.” Sofia Coppola: The director and producer looked effortlessly elegant in a polka dot dress with ankle-strap heels. The ensemble feels very authentic and uncontrived. Kaia Gerber: The model brought some rock-n-roll flavour with her layered look. The different fabrics and easy separates encompass model-off-duty dressing brilliantly. Gigi Hadid: Also in stripes, the ‘W’ December 2018 cover star brought some ‘Beetlejuice’ inspiration with her black and white jacket and cropped pants. The different scales of the prints and the proportions of the pieces had a quirky-cool finish. The voluminous space buns will likely be discussed as much as the clothes.
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