DEEP Surf Magazine—av8, Issue 1_January/February 2013

Rincon Classic Program

No Regrets for Bobby DEEPZINE.COM

Kenai Fjords, Alaska

Sage Erickson's Wisdom

January/February 2013

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Eight films: Cycling in an abandoned ironworks, the majestic Canadian Rockies, ice skating antics, an epic South Pole odyssey, downhill racing in Afghanistan, desert highlining by moonlight, survival tips from a mountain man and the Yosemite Triple

Thu, FeB 28 Seven films: Deep powder, a snowboarder’s story, a dog shreds the bike trails, ascending Mount Denali, the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon, white-water adventuring in New Zealand and an all-disabled team tackles El Capitan

7:30 PM / ArlingTon TheATre

$14 / $11 uCSB students & youth 18 and under An Arlington facility fee will be added to each ticket price.

(805) 893-3535 (805) 963-4408 www.ArtsAndlectures.uCSB.edu The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is presented by National Geographic and The North Face and is sponsored by Deuter, Outdoor Research, PrimaLoft, MSR, Black Diamond and Dolby with support from Therm-a-Rest, Petzl, Kicking Horse Coffee, World Expeditions and Lake Louise Ski Area / Photo credit: Matjaž Wiegele descending Planjava in Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Slovenia. © Marko Prezelj

Dan Malloy sandblasted.

PHOTO: JIM MARTIN

YOUR SURFMAG EL DIRECTOR:

Andres Nuño EDITOR:

Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN:

Dan Levin

PHOTO CORRECTION:

David Levine SALES:

info@deepzine.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Craig Comen Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Michael Kew Chadd Konig Nicole de Leon 10

January/February 2013 Volume 8 > No. 1

Keoni Cuccia looking ahead.

Ventura County.

California Central Coast Surf Mag

JIM MARTIN

L. Paul Mann Kara Petersen Dave Schauber Ryan A. Smith Shawn Tracht CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:

Branden Aroyan Alma Billgren Mikey Billgren Chris Burkard Liz Clark Seth de Roulet Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Erin Feinblatt Josh Gill Chuck Graham William Henry Michael Kew Brent Lieberman L. Paul Mann Caleb Marmolejo Jim Martin

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

COVER SHOT

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Letter from the Editor News Tidelines

24

Ladies Room

30

Sage Erickson’s Wisdom

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM BRANDEN AROYAN ERIN FEINBLATT MICHAEL KEW

What’s Your Komunity Project Northern Exposure Comen Sense Board Trachting View from the Hill Green Room

52

Surf Shop Down Low

58

FEATURES 24 BOBBY MARTINEZ HAS NO REGRETS

Story by Glenn Dubock As a tyke, Bobby Martinez’s chances of becoming one of the world’s top surfers were slim, but defying the odds comes as naturally to the goofy-foot Rincon regular as surfing does. He chats with writer Glenn Dubock about his inauspicious beginning, his heroes in the water, and why despite his surfing Cinderella story, his message to the groms is still “stay in school.”

Music & Entertainment Final Frames

N RINCO SIC

14 16 20 22 44 49 50 57 64 66 68 71 72 74/76 PRESE N T E D B Y

CLASPROGRAM 2013

30 CHADD KONIG PADDLES AGAINST FRACKING Story by Chadd Konig / Photos by Branden Aroyan What do hydrofracking and stand up paddling have in common? Chadd Konig. In this issue of DEEP, Konig takes readers along on a 250-mile, Central Coast SUP journey to raise awareness for the environmental ills related to fracking and seismic testing.

His journal entries go DEEP into an aquatic adventure full of thrills and chills.

35

52

ERIN FEINBLATT PHOTO ESSAY Story by Chuck Graham There’s nowhere else on the planet like Baja California, a truth that Brooks Institute grad Erin Feinblatt exposes with his south-ofthe-border sharp shooting. The narrow finger of land has long sung its siren song to surfers, adventure seekers and anyone who opts off the beaten path. Feinblatt documents this in vivid color, capturing, too, the people and landscapes native to the Mexican state.

58 TRAVEL ALASKA

Story and Photos by Michael Kew Sure, the map shows potential for firing waves. And, sure, with a little luck it’ll just be four surfers in water. Thing is, it’s Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska, where 7-millimeters of rubber is all that separates flesh and blood from 37-degree glacial melt and icy rain. And before they can even dip a toe in, they’ve got to get there.

12

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

The 30th annual Quiksilver Rincon Classic presented

by Channel Islands Program includes articles, profiles, photos, schedule of events, devoted to the Queen of the Coast. This marks the 30th anniversary of the Rincon Classic, the last 13 years Chris Keet from Surf Happens has been the director of the contest and “(he has) expanded the reach of the event to the public, bring a festive atmosphere to the Queen of the Coast,” said Chuck Graham.

W

inter is upon us, and as I sit here writing this letter to you in mid-November, it’s flat. There were just a couple of fun, little surfs during the fall, but nothing of consequence while we approached the end of 2012.

However, for some odd reason I’m mildly optimistic about the surf this year. My gut tells me it will be at least a decent winter. Normally I’m pessimistic about the surf. Seeing is believing when it comes to good waves. But no matter what, the Rincon Classic prevails winter after winter. Like a little kid anticipating Christmas, the waiting period makes me pay a little more attention to the surf. Will there be any? After all, that’s what the waiting period is for this annual event, the 30th year running. Classic director Chris Keet has made it a happening, a fun event for family and friends, a good time to catch up with those I might only see once a year, surf or no surf, good times prevailing.

Among those of us waiting out the Rincon Classic, some opt to chase waves elsewhere, exploring every nook and cranny in search of that hidden gem.

Michael Kew is one of those surfers. The well-traveled

scribe takes us with his band of surfers to the Last Frontier and the deep inlets of southeast Alaska.

Thirty-seven degree water and extra thick neoprene is difficult to fathom, but I appreciate the effort.

On the other side of the geographic spectrum, photographer Erin Feinblatt shares a dizzying amount of Baja images for this issue’s Photo Essay. Dreamy campsites, cactus-laden pointbreaks and solitude unmatched epitomize his experience south of the border.

Also, you may have noticed a change in DEEP’s format. We’ve reduced the size of the magazine in order to increase our page counts and distribution points on the West and East Coasts.

It’s 2013. It sounds strange saying that number, but that’s all it is. When the surf arrives I won’t care what the date is.

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

WHO’S ON BOARD? Branden Aroyan

Photographer + Filmmaker+ Business owner Based in Santa Barbara, Ca. after traveling to many exotic places around the world photographing and filming surf trips for magazines and assignments, I created the organic clothing line Low Tide Rising.

The inspiration is to take care of, and share, this small planet with a sustainable way of life.

Erin Feinblatt

Photographer + Videographer Erin is a California-native photographer, videographer, surfer, and traveler. A former wildlife biologist, he attended the Brooks Institute and transitioned into a professional photography career. Erin captures images of coastal California’s architecture, food, and lifestyle—recently including filming for Come Hell or High Water and photography for Edible Santa Barbara. www.ErinFeinblatt.com

Josh Gill

Photographer Josh Gill is a 29-year-old photographer from Lompoc, Ca. Surfing since childhood, his passion has resided in the ocean. Josh has always had a love for photography, but about two years ago he realized it was more of a passion than just a hobby.

Today he spends most of his time searching for new and creative ways to capture not only the ocean and the waves, but also the lifestyle and the sport of surfing.

14

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Jim Martin Photographer

Born and raised in Ventura, Ca. Jim’s obsession with both the ocean and surfing began at the early age of 8, and now 35 years later that obsession can be seen through his images and his passion to capture that unique elusive moment.

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NEWS

Showdown at Pipe

BY CHUCK GRAHAM

ASPUPDATE

A

PHOTO: © ASP/CESTARI

PHOTO: © ASP/CESTARI

ll the drama was there for the Men’s ASP World Title. Pipeline was doing its thing. Australian Joel Parkinson, the most consistent surfer on the 2012 WCT, was vying for his first world title. Standing in his way was none other than 11-time world champion Kelly Slater. The script couldn’t have been written any better.

It was almost a dream final coming down to the last heat, but Australian Josh Kerr and Mother Nature put Parkinson can say "finally!" an end to Slater’s 12th world tilte hopes in the semifinals. Surfing with a couple of nagging injuries, Kerr secured a 9.20 in the opening minutes at Backdoor, and then hung on to beat Slater in somewhat of a wave-starved heat. The Floridian couldn’t score anything bigger than a 3.0, as Slater was continually pinched off in several Backdoor barrels. Parkinson watched nervously from the Billabong house until the realization struck and he’d won his first world title.

To put icing on the cake, the stylish Parkinson went out and beat Kerr in the final. It was Parkinson’s only victory on the 2012 tour. He surfed his way to three 2nds and three 3rds, and a couple of 5ths. His only hiccup was a 9th. Slater won three events and finished second in another, but his undoing was two 13ths.

Even so, it came down to the last event at surfing’s greatest, most challenging stage. It was good to see Parkinson finally win a world title after coming close so many times, watching friends Mick Fanning, Andy Irons and Slater garner all the glory. However, 2012 was Parkinson’s year and it was well-deserved.

Icing on the cake, Park also wins Pipe Masters.

PHOTO: © ASP/CESTARI

Slater came up a little short at the Pipe Masters.

Cole Glides to =5th PHOTO: © ASP/ROBERTSON

Santa Barbara local, Cole Robbins, finished in =5th at the ASP World Title Longboard Championships at Hainan Island, China. This was the only ASP World Title Longboard event for 2012 and will decided the world champion long boarder for 2012. Tayler Jensen won his second consecutive title.

Cole Robbins nose riding his way to an =5th at the Longboard World Championships.

TUE 01

10:50 4.88 6:00 0.19

WED 02

11:34 4.35 6:36 0.57

THU 03

7:17 7:17

2.32 0.98

JANUARY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

16

FRI 04

8:52 2:00

2.04 3.2

SAT 05

SUN 06

10:26 1.47 3:56 2.94

11:38 0.7 5:36 3.06

MON 07

12:34 -0.08 6:47 3.36

TUE 08

5:56 1:22

6.18 -0.78

WED 09

THU 10

6:46 2:07

7:34 2:50

6.61 -1.3

6.88 -1.61

FRI 11

8:21 3:32

6.95 -1.67

SAT 12

SUN 13

MON 14

9:07 4:13

9:52 4:53

10:38 5.73 5:32 -0.61

6.77 -1.5

6.35 -1.14

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

TUE 15

11:25 4.97 6:11 0.01

PHOTO: © ASP/ROBERTSON

2013 ASP World Tour Schedule Released

Teahupoo is once again a part of the 2013 ASP Men's World Championship Tour.

BY DAVE SCHAUBER

A

s of now, the 2013 ASP World Tour schedule looks like business as usual. With no new venues or sponsors coming to the party, next years contest season looks to be a virtual carbon copy of 2012 with the one exception being the departure of O’Neill and the Cold Water Classic from the list of available events.

Although losing a stop on tour is never good for the ASP and it’s athletes, most people I spoke with in the Santa Cruz community during the event seemed to feel that the Cold Water was better suited as a 6-Star Prime. One man said, “This year there is just too much hype, and too many people.” Most agreed that parking was all but non-existent and viewing the event from the cliff was virtually impossible due to the number of fans that drove in from other areas. “We almost feel pushed out of our own town,” another lady explained.

On the flip side, most top 32 surfers I sat down with were noticeably disappointed. For them losing the event meant less available earnings and a lost opportunity to secure another good result before Hawaii, where local wildcards and the Banzai Pipeline itself brings a whole other dynamic to the table. They all seemed to feel confident that the ASP would find another venue to fill the void, however at this time that still remains to be seen.

Another notable change for 2013 is that the overall prize money for each event has gone up to $450,000 dollars from $425,000 per event. The Billabong Pro in Rio de Janeiro will be the years only exception boasting an overall $500,000 dollar available prize purse which matches last years total keeping the event as the highest paying World Tour event on the schedule.

As with every year, things will kick off on the Gold Coast of Australia in March with the Quiksilver Pro presented by Land Rover. Snapper Rocks always provides a good indicator as to who is in form after the long three-month break. However as we have come to learn with the ASP World Tour, it is not generally how you start that plays the biggest factor. It is how you consistently finish that makes a champion and I as a surf fan can’t wait to see what’s in store.

WED 16

6:44 1.72 12:18 4.16

THU 17

8:03 1:24

1.79 3.4

FRI 18

9:40 3:03

1.66 2.86

SAT 19

SUN 20

11:11 1.29 5:08 2.74

12:17 0.82 6:37 2.93

MON 21

1:03 7:26

0.39 3.16

TUE 22

6:08 1:39

5.22 0.04

WETSAND SURF SHOP

The Association of Surfing Professionals World Championship Tour schedule for 2013 The Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast Presented by Land Rover Snapper Rocks - Gold Coast, Australia March 2nd - 13th

The Rip Curl Pro Bells Presented by Ford Ranger Bells Beach - Victoria, Australia March 27th - April 7th

The Billabong Pro Rio Rio de Janeiro, Brazil May 8th - 19th

The Volcom Pro Fiji Tavarua/Namotu, Fiji June 2nd - 14th

The Billabong Pro Teahupoo Teahupoo, Tairapau Tahiti French Polynesia August 15th - 26th

The Hurley Pro Trestles San Clemente, California U.S.A. September 15th - 21st

The Quiksilver Pro France Southwest Coast, France September 27th - October 7th

The Rip Curl Pro Portugal Peniche, Portugal October 9th - 20th

The Billabong Pipeline Masters Banzai Pipeline - N.S. Oahu, Hawaii December 8th - 20th

You can see the schedule online at www.aspworldtour.com.

WED 23

THU 24

6:47 2:10

7:21 2:38

5.45 -0.24

5.65 -0.44

FRI 25

7:54 3:05

5.78 -0.56

SAT 26

SUN 27

8:26 3:32

8:57 3:58

5.83 -0.6

5.76 -0.54

446 E. MAIN STREET VENTURA Not to be used for navigation.

Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

MON 28

9:30 4:25

5.57 -0.38

TUE 29

10:04 5.24 4:53 -0.11

WED 30

10:42 4.78 5:22 0.25

JANUARY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA www.DEEPZINE.com

17

RINCON CLASSIC

INSTAGRAM CONTEST

Special Guest Judge: David Pu’u @davidpuu Follow us at @deepsurfmag • #deepsurfmag

contest

PRESENTED BY:

TM

3 CATEGORIES: BEST SURF PHOTO ON THE BEACH

WITH YOUR SURF HERO

BEST SURF

ON THE BEACH

TAG @deepsurfmag @sundancebeach @rincondesignssurfshop #deeprinconclassic PRIZE: $50 to Sundance Beach & Rincon Designs Gift Card

TAG: @deepsurfmag @burrito_surf @scoscheinc #deeprinconclassic PRIZE: $100 at burritosurf.com & Accessories Package

by Scosche

SURF HERO

(take a pic w/a pro or legend)

TAG: @deepsurfmag @surfhappens_sb @sacredsurfhi PRIZE: Sacred Surf Hat Bundle & FREE day of Surf Camp with Surf Happens & Gear

WINNERS

get their photos and handles published in the March/April 2013 magazine!

DEADLINE IS THE MONDAY AFTER THE RINCON CLASSIC! Must inclue all tags & hashtags to qualify!

18

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

NEWS

DEEP Instagram Contest Winners

C

ongratulations to our three winners of our first DEEP Surf Magazine Instagram contest! Sean Lesh (@seanlesh), Shawn Parkin (@shawnparkin) and Brandon DiPierri (@saltyeyes) submitted the top photos in our three categories and won some amazing prizes.

Celebrity guest judge, Chris Burkard (@chrisburkard), looked through over 250 submissions to narrow it down to three top photos. "I get the most inspired to shoot when I see other peoples work. Being a judge for the DEEP contest was a cool experience to see some of the awesome photography that is out there in the community," said Burkard.

Lesh won the “Best Surf” category with his unique view on Thanksgiving from his wristworn GoPro. WetSand Surf Shop and Clif Bar hooked Lesh up with some amazing prizes!

“Thanks DEEP, Clif Bar, Wetsand and especially Chris Burkard for choosing my photo … (I’m a) huge fan of his work!,” said Lesh.

Parkin had a ton of likes for his submission for the “Best Handplane” category. His light at the end of the tunnel in Nicaragua was enough to get Burkard’s attention. Parkin got a handmade, custom DEEP handplane by Enjoy Handplanes. “I'm so pumped on winning the DEEP Instagram contest for the handplane category! Enjoy makes some really nice handplanes, and I'm super stoked to get my hands on one,” said Parkin.

DiPierri was top dog in the “Surf Lifestyle” category for his shot of Ryan Lovelace’s shaping bay from the ventilation in the ceiling.

DiPierri won prizes from Jedidiah Clothing and Odina Surf. "I'm very stoked to be selected as a winner in this contest and look forward to more in the future! Thanks DEEP!,” said DiPierri.

Follow DEEP Surf Magazine on Instagram, @deepsurfmag!

Check our website (www.deepzine.com) for our upcoming Instagram Contest at the Rincon Classic.

Prizes from Scosche, Rincon Designs, Sundance Beach, Surf Happens, Burrito Surf, and Sacred Surf Hawaii will be given for “Best Surf,” “On the Beach,” and “Surf Hero” shot. Our celebrity judge will be David Pu’u (@davidpuu)!

ZACK GINGG

justin carlson

Matt King

JARED SISLIN

SAC R E D s u r f h i . c o m

WE ARE CALIFORNIA GROWN .com clay johnson

ANDY BOWLIN

drake stanley

People Are People

PHOTO: MICHAEL KEW

TIDELINES

BY MICHAEL KEW

“M

y people come from many people,” said a white-robed man sitting on the steps of the harborside mosque. He was one of the rare Comorians who spoke English. “But we are one, you see? Allah-u-Akbar — God is great. This do you know? There is no god but God. God is great.”

“Where is the ferry office?” I asked.

Priority, aside from enjoying a grim Moroni day, was obtaining boat tickets to leave town promptly because Grande Comore lacked waves and because the planes of Comores Aviation were too small for surfboards. A 70-kilometer sail to the southeast, lush Anjouan was the archipelago’s promised land, home to the varied reef pass and the black-sand beachbreak, the slabby point and the windsheltered cove, the nearest surfer thousands of miles away.

Our ferry was scheduled to leave Moroni at 5 p.m., arriving at the Anjouan port of Mutsamudu several hours later. Simon, our trusted French translator, secured the tickets and arranged our visas, because despite Anjouan, Mohéli, and Grande Comore being in the same country, politically they are worlds apart—foreigners need a different visa for each island because each has its own unique breed of dysfunctional government.

One of the world’s poorest countries, L’Union des Comores has weathered more than 19 coups or attempted coups, assassinations, and mercenary invasions since it gained independence from France in 1975. France backed the early coups but now supports African Union mediation, and Colonel Bob Denard, the widely hated French mercenary involved in four of the coups, was recently imprisoned and has Alzheimer’s disease, no longer able to plot political mayhem. But with such a history, Comoros is infamous for instability and inter-island squabbling. Of course, French-controlled Mayotte is immune to all of this.

Back at the hotel, I went for a fish sandwich and fell into conversation with the restaurant’s waitress, a middle-aged French woman wearing dirty brown eyeglasses and a brown threadbare dress. She had horribly brown and bucked front teeth, wild and wiry gray hair, a narrow face with warts and a crooked nose and pointy chin—very witchlike. But she was quite friendly and chatty, and had recently returned from Mayotte.

I said, “It’s basically a piece of France in the Mozambique Channel, eh?”

“Mayotte for lazy French people,” she said, setting a small glass of ginger tea on the table. “It just a big holiday for them. They work little, make lot of money, live in nice island. Many of them hate Comorians, who are much nicer people than the French. I am French and even I think the French on Mayotte are not nice!”

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Dead Fisherman Point, so named for maritime treachery. Not on this day, obviously.

“So you prefer Moroni?”

“Oh yes. I am from Chamonix, but Moroni is where my husband from. He worked on Anjouan many years ago but came back to Grande Comore because it is better. Here we have bank, Internet, airplanes, shops, cinema, anything we need. Anjouan is bare.”

“We’re taking a boat to Anjouan this evening.”

At this she looked concerned, leaning in toward me and lowering her voice. “Some people there don’t like white people because they are scared of mercenaries. You need to declare that you are an American sportsman. Keep identification on you at all times to show you are American, not French or South African. I don’t want to afraid you about Anjouan, though.”

After a violent conflict in 1997, Anjouan and Mohéli seceded from Grande Comore and the whole concept of L’Union des Comores. In 2001 the country reunited with itself when voters established a new constitution keeping the three islands as one country, granting greater autonomy to each. For several years there prevailed a semblance of order, and 2006’s presidential election was Comoros’ first peaceful transition of power in 31 years.

The tranquility came to a screeching halt shortly before our visit. In May 2007, Mohamed Bacar, who was elected president of Anjouan in 2002, was asked to step down by the constitutional court because he had served his five-year term; the court then nominated an interim president to head Anjouan’s government until the elections were held. But seeking island independence, Bacar refused to leave, instead printing his own ballot papers and staging his own election in June despite a statement from the African Union and Comorian government saying Bacar’s poll was bogus. Still, Bacar claimed a landslide victory of 90 percent for his “liberation” regime, and at least two people were killed in subsequent tiffs between the national army and Anjouan police. The island’s airport and harbor closed, military presence increased, and tensions soared.

Knowing this, we seriously began to wonder if we’d be safe on Anjouan after all.

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LADIES ROOM

Checking It

“Y

ou must live in the present, launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment. Fools stand on their island of opportunities and look toward another land. There is no other land; there is no other life but this.”- Henry Thoreau “I swear it looks good out there,” was the phrase my friends coined for me back in high school in reference to how I viewed the surf, no matter how poor the conditions. For all of my teenage life I was in an amped up surf-induced trance. I was the annoying friend that flaked on hanging out because I was groveling out in 20-knot blown-out wind swell, or checking it nine times a day. I had never found the patience or passion to completely immerse myself into one sport until I found surfing.

In my early 20’s I was always very careful to manipulate my college and work schedule around surfing hours; taking the minimum number of units per quarter at UCSB and turning

22

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

The author ecstatic to go left in Ventura this time of year.

PHOTO: JIM MARTIN

BY NICOLE DE LEON

down extra work in order to surf. This left me with plenty of time to literally check every spot from Oxnard to Goleta, and when I finally did arrive in class or work, it was always with wrinkly clothes, nasal drip and wet hair.

Even as a UCSB student, I chose to live in Ventura instead of Isla Vista so I could get more consistent surf. As wonderful as it was to be able to wander around surfing most of the day, there was something that was beginning to wane in my surf stoke. I couldn’t pinpoint it, but I was actually beginning to become so obsessed about missing it somewhere else that I didn’t realize I was taking it for granted. I literally could surf every day, two times a day, yet it was never enough. On top of that, ditching out on holidays with family and any inland trips because I might miss the surf was something I did without missing a beat. I became so one-minded that I was only focused on me, surf, me, surf, me, surf.

It was becoming hard to be present in the moment because I always convinced myself I should drive elsewhere and check it. I believed it when people told me I missed it somewhere else, and focused on the past or future rather than immersing myself in the session I was having right at that moment.

Eventually, it dawned on me that I had been pretty darn selfish chasing surf all these years and that it was making me miss the other aspects of life that are so rich and amazing. Like travelling, doing something for a living that makes a positive impact on the world, or spending time with my loved ones even if they don’t surf or live near the ocean. “Career” had always seemed like a dirty word to me, but as soon as I gave in and started one, I found myself truly appreciating the time I did get in the water more because of it.

This doesn’t mean that it isn’t hard to hear surfers tell me, “you missed it,” after I worked all day, and it most definitely does not mean I don’t have surf on the brain most days. What it does mean, at least for me, is that I can now savor the color of the water in relation to the sky, the feel of a duck dive on dry hair after a long day, the joy of looking over my shoulder and realizing I’m alone on a set wave.

How lucky we are to truly have a venue to be completely present and in tune with nature! It is ironic that something so spiritual can become easily egocentric and stressed over. I suppose it is navigating between the desire to surf and the desire to make a positive difference in the world where the balance lies. Even if we only managed to pick off one scrappy little insider during the last firing swell, it is important to realize that all we had was that moment, and it is in that moment we can find our eternity.

PHOTO: LIZ CLARK

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

BY GLENN DUBOCK

or all sociological, physical and rational reasons, Bobby Martinez never should have taken up surfing, much less become one of the best in the world.

He wasn’t spawned from Santa Barbara surfing royalty like a Curren. He didn’t have role models or mentors or coaches. As a matter of fact, he began his personal wave quest at a beach better known for rowdy locals and a thumping beach break.

“I first surfed at The Pit (Hendry’s Beach) when I was 6 years old, and I did it on my own because no one in my family surfed.”

When asked if he was hooked right away, Bobby replies, “I liked it a lot right away. I liked everything when I was a kid, but when I was 8, I really started to love it and did it as much as possible.

But up until 8, I did it here and there.”

Bobby’s first board, in a sign of things to come, was a Channel Islands surfboard. “It was a 5’2” with the yellow Tom Curren stripe around the rails and it was a three-fin board.”

Though the shapes and sizes may have changed—and the Curren stripe is gone—Bobby has stuck with what works for — continued

After watching Curren do these on rights his whole life, Bobby takes the frontside opportunity to show he's got more then just backside attack.

The first time I hung out with Bobby I knew we would be friends. He treats his dog better then most people treat their lovers and I am the same way.

Rio, a beach loving black lab, has marked a fair bit of the California Coastline courtesy of surf sessions with Bobby.

PHOTOS: SETH DE ROULET

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PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

Banking hard off a foam ball.

PHOTO: DE ROULET

This was a wedge hurricane swell session that only lasted for about 45 minutes before the tide got to low.

But for 45 minutes Bobby was making these lefts bleed with precision slices like this.

him, a Channel Islands board, for the duration of his surfing career.

Bobby knows his unique role as a team rider. “I have no input on boards at all. I just ride them and give them feedback on how they work. I don’t even know what concave is. I think of it like this: The shaper knows exactly how to shape; all I know is how a board rides.

So I am real simple with boards, just feedback based on how they work and I just let the shaper do what he does best.” obby is a goofy foot in an area that boasts some of the best right hand point breaks in the world. To be a standout at spots like Rincon, with your back against the liquid wall, takes an extra measure of confidence and commitment. Power surfing, planting that back foot solid off the bottom turn and cranking up in to the lip with a vertical slash, is Bobby’s trademark—but it never should have been.

“I’m just goofy footed when it comes to surfing, although I am right handed and right footed.”That shows just how deeply mental — continued

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Without a doubt Bobby and Curren are the best goofy and regular footers to shred the walls of the Queen. While Curren draws out long graceful lines, Bobby takes the other approach and fits five perfect turns with endless variety into a space where most mere mortals might fit two.

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PHOTO: DE ROULET

"No regrets, it had to be said and I don’t regret what I have done in my life. I believe that you stand up for what you truly believe in."—BM

PHOTO: DE ROULET

Tubes like this are child's play to Bobby.

Standing for the fun of it.

PHOTOS: LIEBERMAN

Styling through another left hand barrel.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Bobby’s surfing goes. It’s like a fine tuned racecar engine firing on all cylinders at once.

Bobby is using both hemispheres of his brain simultaneously in an ambidextrous assault on the waves he rips to shreds.

After many long and mostly successful years of chasing the dream on the World Tour, Bobby made a well-publicized and rather vocal exit. When asked how it all looks in the rearview mirror of time, Bobby says, “No regrets, it had to be said and I don’t regret what I have done in my life. I believe that you stand up for what you truly believe in.”

So nowadays we get the pleasure and stoke of watching Bobby ride the waves of his hometown far more. When asked where his favorite surf spot is, the wave-hungry surfer comes back up to the surface when he says, “I don’t really have a favorite wave around home. I can make any place real fun as long as I have some friends and that’s it. If the waves aren’t good but I have a group of good friends out there with me then that makes it fun. I like to stay away from all the crowds, so my favorite wave varies depending on the atmosphere.” obby has made his mark at Rincon; he is easily one of the best to ever ride that perfect point. Who is on his personal list? “Gabe Venturelli—he is my favorite surfer in the world!” Jason Roth, Chris Brown, Aaron Earnst and Josh Bradbury round out his picks for the surfers he likes to ride with and watch.

Bobby never talks much about it but he gives back to his community with extra clothes and whatever inspiration he can provide.

Bobby has proven himself on local waves and waves of consequence around the world. The future is wide open for him, but in looking back, he can provide a good road map for the young ones coming up in the ranks like he did.

“Have a backup plan in life because after surfing is done you have a long life to live.

Don’t think you are going to be a pro surfer and make lots of money and be a millionaire or else you are setting yourself up for failure. Stay in school and have a plan once surfing is done!”

Bobby can’t emphasize enough that pro surfing is great but just a part of your life.

“Enjoy a regular childhood experience because your childhood is so short and you only get one. So be a normal kid, not a kid who is already brainwashed on being a world champion.”

Take it from a guy who put in all the work, had an incredible run on the Pro Tour, and is back in his home waters ripping harder than ever.

What should never have been continues to be the amazing life of Bobby Martinez.

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Sea Pathways

Paddling from Santa Cruz to Santa Barbara B Y C H A D D K O N I G / P H O T O S B Y B R A N D E N A R O YA N

As soon as I decided to embark on this coastal paddle adventure, the Chumash and their words came to me. The Chumash are natives from the Santa Barbara region who thrived and took care of the land for more than 10,000 years. The word “A lul quoy” meaning, “dolphin, to go around, to protect and to go in peace” came before me.

My intention and the entire journey became crystal clear. I educated myself on a few projects

that are threatening California’s Central Coast and felt compelled to share this knowledge with a wider audience by using the paddle journey as a platform. I am by no means a native of this region, and I do not know the perfect solution to the social and environmental issues we are facing; however I believe that the people of California should be aware of the potential harm of hydraulic fracking and seismic testing.

Learn more and take action! Visit these websites: Hydraulic Fracking: www.edcnet.org/learn/current_cases/fracking/konig_paddle.html • Seismic Testing: www.action.surfrider.org/p/dia/action/public/?action_KEY=6612 Chadd laying down a bottom turn on his semi gun thruster. First surf of the trip so far, other than an occasional body womp.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Day One: early morning launch leaving Santa Cruz Harbor about to cross the Monterey Bay.

Day One: nearing land after crossing in 2,000 feet of water.

Branden Aroyan, photographer/filmmaker/safely crew, was driving me up the coast when the Chumash word presented itself. We were in southern Big Sur mapping and scouting the 250 miles with complete focus. We established a “long route” and “short route” for each day; the long route being a 20 to 30 mile paddle and short route being 10 to 20 miles.

We did this in preparation for unexpected weather and so that Aroyan would know exactly where to look for me in case we lost radio and visual contact. This did occur halfway through Big Sur, and he could not locate me until I decided to bury my paddleboard in a sandy cove, secure it to a log and climb the cliffs to Highway 1.

I sat on the side of the road with my dry bags, food, water, maps, broken radio and solar panel charging my useless phone. Within a couple hours he drove by, I hooted and barely got his attention. To put it simply, he was relieved and wearing a wide smile. No matter how carefully you prepare, something will always go wrong, and that is when it gets real wild and free. Those are the moments that allow you to truly see within yourself.

Before I even got on the paddleboard, we spent two more days slowly driving the coast with attention to all landmarks and ocean features. Another two days were invested at the computer creating maps using close-up images from Google Earth. We made a map for every five miles and my relationship with this coastline was just beginning to enter a new level of intimacy. On the full moon I paddled out of Santa Cruz Harbor into dense fog and set course for Monterey Peninsula.

My journal entries contain the stories…

Journarlies Ent

Santa Cruz Harbor to Monterey Peninsula

“Created fire with a brother last night. Huddled together on this ground, a native tree and weed joined by fast moving hands. We lit the sage; I bowed, took a breath and witnessed another miracle. Then I spoke with the woman I love with my heart’s heart in all truth and freeness. She shared her stories, feelings and most gentle and sincere voice I have ever heard. We hugged from far, proving space an illusion, bound by the ultimate intention. Lying beneath the oak I closed these eyes and slept. Woke in the dark and prepared to give to the sea. I walked to her with all that I am, offered chocolate as the natives do and laid with her. Crawling along her shiny surface, the teachings began. Orange jellyfish gliding through the watery world below, softly stinging my arms providing the lesson of focus and presence, speaking through action saying each paddle matters, one decides the next, every motion dictating your direction, and your destiny becomes. Right then, halfway across Monterey Bay, seven miles to sea in 2,000-feet of water, the sun fish jumped. Giving its white belly to the world and again taking to the air and splashing. The dolphins joined too, just behind me, following and playing in the liquid path of my paddleboard. Utterly captivated by the visions of the natural world, I strived to — continued

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Sea Pathways

Chadd looking for a landing spot after paddling 26 miles across Monterey Bay, on day one of the paddle. After this photo was taken I rode back to Santa Cruz in the boat as Whales breached numerous times.

stay on course, checking with my dear friend the compass every other moment. One hundred and fifty-three degrees takes me to Lover’s Point. Ending up a few miles southwest and loving the destination, palming through the kelp in search of a sandy nook to call home for the night. To rest, make fire and food and dream under the full moon.”

Monterey Peninsula to Southern Carmel “Seems that so much happens in what one would call ‘a day.’ Sitting below a green tree that is home to 10 white birds, I reckon this day could be called a lifetime. Gripping the kelp with my fingers, pulling through the thickness of healthy seaweed.

Five minutes in the water and I have already made a furry friend.

Just on the edge of the kelp beds a sea otter enjoys the morning grooming. We spend a few minutes together, eye contact and peaceful nonverbal communication. In that moment I embrace equanimity and I believe the sea otter feels and knows we

are the same. When one is out at sea alone for hours each day these encounters remind you that you are never alone. Life is abundant, surrounding and holding you dearly, looking to comfort you and be your friend. The animals, ever changing water colors, wind in the trees ashore, waters motion beneath your body, the smells coming out the canyons and mountains and onto the sea’s surface, passing clouds above and the clear blue behind them, the birds and seals sounding their feelings and our sun keeping us the perfect temperature. These are all our friends, the best and purest we will ever have.”

Julia Pfeiffer Burns Waterfall to Southern Big Sur “Last night I arrived to a flourishing cove where water falls from the north facing cliff. It falls from over 100 feet and with such force you cannot stand directly below it without being knocked to your bum. I sat next to the falling water, played flute and asked for water’s blessing. Grabbed a pot from the dry bag,

filled it, made fire and boiled water for tea and dinner. All was warm and full of wonder. Woke to bath beneath waterfall, oats and 12-mile paddle south. Now lying on another sandy nook, with turquoise seas, majestic rocks on either end and a bit of water falling from these cliffs as well. Life is abundant here; however, in this region the line between serene and perilous is ever so thin. One moment your exhale is as effortless, calm as can be, heart filled and slowed by the natural beauty all around … Then in the next moment your heart could be beating faster than ever and lungs gasping for air. The contrast between serenity and danger is being shown to me like never before.

Paddled through the first full-on feeding frenzy of this journey. Just after Dolan Rock I tacked out to avoid getting tangled in the kelp beds. A mile or so later, just beyond Black Square Rock there is a bay and deep underwater canyon. The water’s motion intensified, swells quickly became five foot and were coming from all directions due to the refractions off the — continued

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Chadd’s journal.

Preparing to depart secluded cove near Pt. Lobos.

Chadd Konig checking the road map. Konig paddled anywhere from 6 to 27 miles per day.

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Sea Pathways cliffs. Looking to the sky, hundreds of birds searched for their evening feed. Below the paddleboard, thousands of small fish sparkled. It took me a moment to identify them because their movements were made in unison and they appeared to be one large fish. Then I saw them abruptly change direction and realized them as a school of fish. The sparkling went on for hundreds of yards! Bird feeding calls were loud and an unexpected swell from the south crossed and surged over the paddleboard’s nose, swiftly forcing me to go for a swim.

I kept my board from flipping over and pulled myself back upon it. Bird noises continued, but sounded more like kind laughs now. I laid my head down and took a peaceful breath, accepting and knowing Grandmother Sea can do anything she wishes to you. Having no resistance to natural forces and remembering that water is both the softest and strongest element that exists, I paddled on…”

GoPro frame grab from the deck of the board, a highlight destination for Chadd.

Packing up to leave the waterfall after no communication for a night. A flooded waterproof radio cut off conversation, so Chadd and Aroyan had to use visual contact for the night.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Having lost a GoPro camera off the deck of his board when getting slammed in the shore break on arrival at this particular beach, Chadd takes a moment to time his exit.

RINCON

CLASSIC PROGRAM 2013

PHOTO: BILL TOVER

Dane Reynolds, 2012 Pro Division Champ.

PRESENTED BY

2013 RINCONCLASSIC PROGRAM

WELCOME TO THE 2013 RINCON CLASSIC

By Chris Keet, Contest Director

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The Jeff White Aloha Award reated by legendary woodworker Skip Saenger in 2012 to recognize an individual whose community spirit and life path have bettered our community.

Saenger’s concept for the JWAA is one of a perpetual trophy where honorees’ names are added to the award annually. In 2012, Jed White was the first inductee in honor of his father Jeff’s passion, devotion to community and lifestyle.

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30th annual Rincon Classic Lifetime Achievement Award: Tom Curren om Curren has, without a doubt, been the most iconic and influential surfer to grace our local waters over the last 30 years, defining style, flow and humility. Tom, who groomed his technique at Rincon Point, stormed onto the international scene in the 1980’s, winning three world titles in the process and holding the record for most professional wins for nearly 20 years.

Throughout his career he shied away from the limelight and let his surfing do the talking, which arguably only grew his legend. His approach to wave riding continues to influence surfers young and old worldwide.

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PHOTO: MIKEY BILLGREN

The 2013 Quiksilver Rincon Classic presented by Channel Islands Surfboards first waiting weekend kicks off on Saturday, January 5 and Sunday, January 6 with a total of eight consecutive weekends in the waiting period in order to align the event with the ideal combination of conditions and swell.

The vision of Surf Happens, the producers of the Rincon Classic, is to bring a world class surfing competition to our home break, Rincon, while uniting our community together for a locals only gathering each year.

Through sponsorship support, everyone who participates gets hooked up with well over their entry fee in gear and is entered into a raffle for the Wave Hunters grand prize of a week for two at Las Flores resort in El Salvador.

Not to mention that the event now features computerized scoring, live commentating, ASP judges, an all-star water patrol, professional division, expression session and more.

In addition, contestants and spectators are treated to free food and drinks from Wahoo's, Mad Dogs, Frooty Acai, Caribbean Coffee and Lucky Llama.

Massage and chiropractic care will be provided by Alki, and a surf specific training and warm up area will be brought by Wesley Wilson Fitness. We also encourage you to come check out all of the special events that are going on during the contest beyond the high-powered action in the water.

For the second year, through the raffle and SIMA Classic Sunday proceeds, we are raising funds for First Descents and the Surf Happens Foundation in an effort to share the healing powers of the ocean with youth and young adult cancer survivors. In 2012, with your support and that of the Brittingham Family Foundation we were able to host a FREE week long camp for area youths surviving cancer, and look to build upon that this year with our goal being able to offer three weeks in summer 2013.

2013 Jeff White Aloha Award: Roger Nance n behalf of generations of local surfers, we are honored to present the 2013 30th annual Rincon Classic Jeff White Aloha Award to Roger Nance. Roger, aka “Uncle Rog,” was one of the original founders of the Rincon Classic and spearheaded the event for 17 consecutive years from 1979 to 1996 while also running a local contest series. He was one of White’s shop workers in Goleta while in college and became one of his right hand men helping to launch Surf N' Wear franchise stores up and down the coast before eventually settling on one location, the Surf N' Wear Beach House, located at 10 State Street in Santa Barbara. The events that Roger ran helped bring our community together and provided a competitive forum for local surfers that helped raise the level of surfing in Santa Barbara. Following in White’s footsteps, Roger became a true community leader and continues to share his passion for the sport and love of people to this day.

PHOTO: BILL TOVER

PHOTO: BRANDEN AROYAN

here is no greater gift in this world than sharing love, life experience, and passion with others. To me that is what community is all about. I will always cherish the memories of sitting on the dock in the Santa Barbara Harbor, listening to the fishermen tell stories about the ocean’s great mysteries.

From those stories I gleaned knowledge about the wind, waves, tides, and currents, and they also gave me my first glimpse of the incredible support network that makes up our oceanic community. From the roots of the community in which we are raised, we grow, and the spirit of giving and guidance here is second to none.

This foreword to the 30th annual Rincon Classic is intended to honor the fabric of what makes our home special: the people, the places, our surfing heritage, and the event that has brought generations of local surfers together since 1979. It is with great honor that I, along with a team of like-minded folks from Surf Happens, have run the Classic for the last 13 years. Through sponsorship and community support, we are honored to be hosting the Rincon Classic for current and future generations of surfers and spectators to enjoy.

SPECIAL AWARD RECIPIENTS

HAIL TO THE QUEEN

By Chuck Graham

PHOTO: TOVER

The biggest and best conditions were in 2004. L. Paul Mann trying to sneak around a section.

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and I seem to remember the local crowd being a little hostile. I vividly recall t was the fall of 1981. I was a stoked, 17-years-old surfer with long, bleachpaddling out in the final next to the south side of the pier and some of the blonde hair always in my eyes. I’d heard about the Rincon Classic the year crowd spitting at me, and yelling things I can’t repeat in this article. I finished before and was disappointed that I’d missed it. There was no way I was in second and was later told by two of the judges that if I’d won I missing out in 1981. I called Surf N’ Wear repeatedly inquiring wouldn’t have made it out alive. It makes me appreciate the about the contest dates and entry fee of $10.

Rincon Classic that much more.

Gotcha was the main sponsor, Jeff White, who If someone were to ask me my fondest memories of owned Surf N’ Wear at the time, got the contest off the Rincon Classic, it wouldn’t be the four victories— the ground. It was his vision and vibrant personality two in the Mens Division and two in the Masters that oozed good times, and it was always a pleasure Division. For me it’s about the surf. I gauge the to see White at the contest. Roger Nance, who success of the event by the quality of the surf. I now owns the Beach House in Santa Barbara, want to see classic Rincon at the Rincon Classic. was the contest director, and the Rincon Classic Of course Mother Nature waits for no one, was—and still is—the most anticipated contest especially contest directors. You get what you in the region. get. So without a doubt, the waves in 2004 were From the late 1970s up until the late 1980s, unsurpassed. The prediction was spot on and Surf N' Wear ran a series of cool, local contests.

Mother Ocean delivered the goods. I estimated A “Surfer of the Year” from the Men’s Division it at 6- to 10-foot and flawless. It was glassy the was recognized for having the highest point total whole finals day, and it pumped, no lulls. The only from the combined three events. One of those bummer was the crowd. events was the Hammonds Classic, which I enjoyed For the most part Keet, today’s contest director, as much as the Rincon Classic. There was something has done a fine job of keeping non-contestants out about the grassy meadow, fall conditions and the high Parker Coffin.

PHOTO: TOVER of the lineup during the contest, but at the 2004 Rincon performance right-hander that’s coveted by too many Classic there was no possible way he was keeping the crowd at Santa Barbarians today. During the summer, the Semana bay. It was just too good. I couldn’t blame anyone in the lineup. All Nautica was the third event, held at The Pit at Arroyo Burro Beach. the contestants were in the same boat. It was a virtual free-for-all at Indicator The surf always seemed to be meager and a real struggle for me. I recall the last and Rivermouth. year Semana Nautica ran was 1986 at backside Rincon, and somehow I found Keet has brought the Rincon Classic back from the dead, this being its 30th myself in the winner’s circle. anniversary. He’s expanded the reach of the event to the public, bringing a For a time Surf N’ Wear used to have a surf shop up in San Luis Obispo, and festive atmosphere to the Queen of the Coast. the local surf contest was held at the pier at Pismo Beach. It was the fall of 1982,

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PHOTO: TOVER

2013 RINCONCLASSIC PROGRAM

BE GREEN TO THE QUEEN

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ur goal at the 30th annual Rincon Classic is to preserve and protect the beauty of Rincon Point for current and future generations to enjoy. The mission is to leave her cleaner than we found her and properly manage the waste that is created by the event. Through your support, and that of our waste management team from Green Project Consultants, we have been able to divert over 90% of all waste from area landfills over the past six years. Lets take it to the next level in 2013! The mission is to REDUCE, REUSE, and RECYCLE. All contestants will receive a 30th annual Rincon Classic organic, re-usable bag courtesy of Surf Happens, and fresh cool water will be served from large ice-filled containers at the water station.

In an effort to spread awareness, we have partnered with area non-profits to help educate the public on simple solutions to pollution and ways to get involved in grassroots activism. Look for Green Booths from the Surf Happens Foundation, Surfers Without Borders, Surfrider, and The Quiksilver Foundation, and participate in our daily beach cleanups and get your green on!

GREENTIPS • Bring your reusable mug for coffee, and drink tin for water • Dispose of waste and recyclables in proper containers—compost/recycling/landfill • Carpool to the contest • Look up schedule of events on rinconclassic.com, allow enough time to get to contest site, plan to stay all day.

• Participate in our daily beach cleanups to keep RC 13 pristine. (Saturday at noon and Sunday at noon and 3 p.m.)

• Ride your bike to the contest • Use designated restrooms • Stay off of the natural foliage • Keep dogs on leashes and clean up after your pet

DAVID PU’U, THE MAN BEHIND THE LENS

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avid Pu’u, 56, was born in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, but has long moved on from his oceanless birthplace and now is a fixture behind the lens.

Pu’u is a world-renowned photographer, cinematographer, and is the creative advisor to Blue Ocean Sciences and the Ocean Lovers Collective.

We were lucky to catch up with Pu’u in between photo shoots.

Rincon Classic: When was your first surf session at Rincon?

David Pu'u: December 10, 1973. The surf was 3 to 5 feet. I drove there in my dad’s 1964 Ford Falcon and surfed it alone on a 6’6” round squaretail I had just built and was amazed at how fast you could go (at Rincon).

RC: Most memorable Rincon session?

DP: There are a lot. So, so, many. One of the best was a 10 to 12 foot day, almost too big. Sunny, bright blue water. I remember getting a wave up past Indicator and as I drove down into that big fat section below Rivermouth, the light breeze made the wave face shimmer like a field of sapphires. The wave went around the corner towards La Conchita. It took 20 minutes to walk back. I was riding a 5’11” inch tri fin I had built earlier in the season.

RC: Best memory of the Rincon Classic?

DP: This is a hard one. It was either my first win, which was actually an event Jeanine Curren did, which preceded the first one that Surf N' Wear did, or one of three others. I think the one that makes me smile, was when I had just left Channel Islands to develop Spindrift and the CI guys buried my board in the sand. I found it after the final heat had gone out.

I ran across the rocks at Indicator (it was very small), sprinted out and sat on top of everyone and controlled the heat. Looking in with five minutes to go, I saw Al, who was standing on the rocks, throw up his hands and walk away. I knew I had won. In the process I had won the event series which gave me our local title of “Surfer of the Year,” which meant a lot to me, because of both my close friendships with my competitors and Al, but also because Jeff White had mentored, supported me and been my friend, with Roger Nance, for so many years.

It could also be the year I came in second to Steve Dwyer. That was pretty special. It was great having him beat me, and I was not disappointed, I was elated. The surf was big, and we were all going at it!

RC: What is it about the Rincon Classic that makes it so special?

DP: COMMUNITY! When we all began to surf the tour, the idea was to build a competitive format that would set the bar high and breed better everything—boards,

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attitudes, brotherhood, friendships, and liasons. Rincon is competitive. Everyone wants the prize. To stand out there requires a wide variety of skills and your friends. The only time you are alone there, truly alone is over 10 feet, so it is a social exercise. In terms of the wave, being different than what the fall line demands requires skills and creativity, because the wave wants a subtle steady line. Breaking that, and using the wave to create dream moves is quite a gift of the architecture of the point.

RC: Favorite subjects to photograph.

DP: Anything in the water, pretty much. As long as I am wet, I am happy. The more technically difficult, the better for me. Though I really enjoy creating and doing staged productions for fashion, just give me a regular day in the water with the dolphins, one or two of my friends surfing, a wide angle, a thumping swell, and I am gonna wind up with a grin on my face.

RC: You have been through the entire gamut of surfing. From professional surfer to shaper, surf shop owner, coach, photographer, writer and much more. Do you have any insight on why you feel our county produces world-class surfers?

DP: Generosity. Santa Barbara surfing is rooted in aloha and that IS generosity. The first surfboard builder I ever met here was Renny Yater, when I was a little kid. He was great to me then and throughout my career. So were ALL of my friends and mentors in surfing, swimming, cycling, racing, manufacturing, retail, photography, literature and cinematography. I have been fortunate to have had some success, but really, it all came as a result of the flow of aloha, as well as the bar which the person before me set within the community that lives here.

RC: Any last words?

DP: We all, each one of us, sets the stage for the next. We all stay connected by recognizing that surfing is a part of who we are, but not what we are. Everyone moves on, best to endeavor to do that with some grace and gratitude and keep the chain unbroken. Everyone matters.

PHOTO: VERONICA SLAVIN

RC: Tell us about the image that you took of Tom Curren that is featured as the RC 13 30th anniversary iconic shot.

DP: Our winters really can be the best summers. A Santa Ana was just fading. Hot, glassy, 4 to 6 foot, 290 degree WNW swell, and Tom was just burying himself and playing. I was monopoding a 600 F 4 and walking down the point, and this was one of two great barrels that Tom snatched. I rarely just go hang out at the beach with a long lens and shoot surfing. It makes me edgy sitting on the beach. But when I saw Tom do some neat work in the barrel, well, it made being in the bleachers worthwhile. I have known Tom and Joe and the family, for a long, long time. Whenever I get to hang with any of the Currens, it’s a pretty good day.

SIMA CLASSIC SUNDAY RC 13 AWARDS CEREMONY Music by Spencer the Gardener, 6:30 - 7:15 p.m.

Dinner By Wahoo’s, 6:30 - 7:30 p.m.

supporting environmental activists. Contestants get in free, and tickets are $10 for all others (includes raffle tickets and a meal bracelet).

2012 Pro finalists, Parker Coffin, Pete Mussio, Bobby Martinez and Dane Reynolds.

Slideshow & Video Highlights, 6:30 - 7:15 p.m.

One-of-a-kind solar carved Lanikai Ukeleles

Silent Auction & Raffle, 6:30 - 9:00 p.m.

FD & Camp Healing Wave video, 7:15 - 7:25 p.m.

30th Annual tribute movie, 7:25 - 7:35 p.m.

Awards Ceremony, 7:35 – 9:00 p.m.

Video Contest Movies, 9:00 - 9:30 p.m.

Closing Music by Spencer the Gardener, 9:00 - 9:30 p.m.

When: Sunday, January 6, 2013, 6:30-9:30pm

(Subject to Change Along With Event To Subsequent Sundays Thereafter)

Where: Santa Barbara Maritime Museum, 113 Harbor Way Santa Barbara, CA 93109 Details: The 30th annual Rincon Classic awards ceremony is an all ages event for Spencer the Gardener

Rincon Classic participants, their families, friends, and the community at large. The ceremony honors all finalists and features a slideshow and video highlights from the final’s lineup.

Enjoy live music by Spencer the Gardener and a catered dinner by Wahoo’s, enter into the raffle and place your bid in the silent auction. 100% of the SIMA Classic Sunday entry’s and raffle proceeds are being donated to our non-profit partners, First Descents and the Surf Happens Foundation.

Check out tables by event sponsors, local artists, and our

EITHAN OSBORNE Interview and Photo by Glenn Dubock

T

he Rincon Classic is the annual showcase for top surfers in the Tri-County area. All of the divisions are very competitive, but everyone loves to watch the future unfold, and that is what the Gremlin Division is all about.

Among the many young rippers, Eithan Osborne from Ventura has been blowing up and looks forward to the 2013 contest.

I had just five questions for young Eithan: DEEP: How many years have you competed in the Rincon Classic, what division and how did you do?

Eithan Osborne: “I have only done the contest one year in the Gremlin Division, and my best result was winning it.”

DEEP: What size and shape board will you ride in the contest?

EO: “I ride a Roberts Surfboards 4’9” Beaver model.”

DEEP: What is your favorite part of the wave at Rincon?

EO: “The Cove.”

DEEP: What is your strategy for advancing through the heats, and whose surfing will you watch at the contest?

EO: “I will try to choose the biggest and best wave and surf good. In the Pro Division, I like to watch Dane Reynolds and I also keep an eye on Parker Coffin.”

DEEP: What is your favorite Rincon Classic memory?

EO: “Getting interviewed by the Surf Channel after winning, and the awards ceremony.”

For the sixth year we are partnering with local artists to create unique one-of-a-kind organic trophies for Rincon Classic event winners. Nothing helps keep the rhythm of surfing going while on land quite like music. It is with great honor that we have partnered with Lanikai Ukeleles and local distributor Jensen’s Guitar to provide all first-place winners with a Lanikai Ukelele. Each ukelele is customized with original RC 13 30th annual solar carved artwork by Brian Chandler, aka “Solar B.”

RC 13 30th annual Thrones The Professional division winner and special award recipients will receive one-of-a-kind custom 30th annual Rincon Classic thrones created by renowned local woodworker John Birchim of Jaya Wave. The wood donated to create each piece has a unique story, where a tree has fallen and then been reclaimed and milled, then made into a throne to live on through awards honoring the legacy of the Classic. Each throne is made of two pieces, one of which is in the shape of an alaia and may be surfed or boogie boarded.

BRETT JORDAN Interview By Glenn Dubock

B

rett William Jordan started his life 46 years ago in the motor city of Detroit. Lucky for him, his parents transplanted the family to the shores of Laguna Beach when he was 10 years old to run an iconic ice cream factory known as Swenson’s. It was there in the crystal blue shore pound that Brett stole his brothers surfboard and began a quest for the perfect point break—something he has found at Rincon, though he would rather have it all to himself. That’s what it looks like when Brett goes out in his Rincon Classic Grand Master heats—he rips the place like he owns it!

PHOTO: ALMA BILLGREN

Schedule and Highlights

DEEP: How many years have you competed in the Rincon Classic and in what divisions? What was your best result?

Brett Jordan: (I’ve been) competing six years in the Open Mens, Masters and Grand Masters divisions. (I took) first place in the Masters division in 2008, and first place last year in the Grand Masters division.

DEEP: What size and shape board do you ride in the contest?

BJ: I ride a local shaper’s boards, Craig Angell from Carpinteria. A 5’10” to 6’0” tri-fin square-tail shape.

DEEP: What part of the wave is your favorite at Rincon?

BJ: Well, there are three great sections to the Queen’s curve, each has wonderful merit and potential. I prefer a lower-tide “pit” at the river, followed by a long wall. But the inside section, into the causeway, can have a bit of it all. Indicator is a great warm-up though.

DEEP: Without giving away any secrets, what is your strategy for advancing through the heats at the contest?

Whose surfing do you like, in your division or any division?

BJ: I like to stay focused on all I am grateful for first and foremost, life and the opportunity to surf the gold coast.

I have lived through open-heart surgery in 2003, and will face the same operation at the end of this year, so I like to keep it simple. This is a “gift,” whether you compete or not, just stay present and enjoy the moment with dignity. I enjoy watching Andrew Bennett, Bobby Martinez, Tony de Groot, Tom Curren and Chuck Graham.

DEEP: Tell us about your favorite Rincon Classic memory.

BJ: Last year as I exited the water from my Grand Masters Final, this woman came up to me as I negotiated the slippery rocks at the water’s edge and said, “You don’t know me and probably have no idea who I am, but I just want to compliment you on your performance.”

I replied, “Wow! You are Margo Oberg, I watched you as a kid on ‘Wide-World-of-Sports,’ it was 1976, I think, at Sunset. I was hooked on surfing that same year after watching you! Of course I know who you are!”

Honestly, I could not have been more flattered.

RC-5

2013 RINCONCLASSIC PROGRAM

Accessories for Life.

www.scosche.com

PHOTO: MICHAEL KEW

WHAT YOU GET:

RINCONCLASSIC PROGRAM

All contestants receive the following with their $75 entry fee.

2013

• Scosche In Rhythm Award: Scosche is all about rhythm and, as the official audio sponsor of the Rincon Classic, is providing cash and prizes for surfers posting the highest • Live Commentating & Computerized Scores: For the third year running, we have teamed up with Beach scores of the day in their division. The highest combined heat score of the weekend receives a $500 cash bonus for Byte to provide computerized scoring to give contestants the Scosche “In Rhythm” Grand Prize. and spectators instant feedback on where surfers stand in heats. Combine that with the velvety commentary by ro Division: The Professional Division features our area’s •P local announcers and members of the Quiksilver team, top resident pros battling for the bragging rights of the featuring live interviews, music, and prize giveaways. coveted title, to take home a hefty cash purse, and a Jaya Prepare to be entertained.

Wave 30th annual Rincon Classic throne. All in a few days

RINCON CLASSIC EVENT HIGHLIGHTS

work of surfing Rincon with only a couple friends out.

• Independent Classic Lines: We have teamed up with The Independent to dig up • Online Raffle & Beach Raffle: historical trivia from years past and share Classic Lines with Thanks to he support of our amazing sponsors we are the beach. hosting an online and event raffle for over $15,000 in trips and amazing gear. The Wave Hunters Grand Prize is • ASP Certified Judging Panel a dream surf trip for two to Las Flores Resort, El Salvador. xpression Session: The RC 13 Expression Session is •E Top prizes include custom Channel Islands Surfboards, just another way that Surf Happens has teamed up with Quiksilver Fuse Flex Wetsuits and backpacks, Arbor Quiksilver and Channel Islands Surfboards to help give back to our community. We have selected some of the best surfers Skateboards, Teva Shoes, Scosche audio gear and much in the world who happen to call the 805 their home to exhibit more. All proceeds benefit local charities. For more information log on to rinconclassic.com. state of the art surfing in our backyard for 30 minutes.

DEMOS Quiksilver & Roxy Wetsuit Demos:

Featuring free wetsuit demos for competitors, spectators, and noncompetitors. Try out the warmest, most flexible suits on the market. If the suit fits, wear it!

(10 a.m. – 4 p.m. all weekend) Surfboard Demos: Channel Islands Surfboards presents the RC 13 board demos featuring designs by local shapers Al Merrick (Channel Islands Surfboards), Jason Feist (J7 Surfboards), and Matt Moore (Matt Moore Surfboards).

SPECIAL HAPPENINGS Organic Trophies: All finalists will receive 2013 Quiksilver Rincon Classic Belt buckles as trophies, with first-place finishers taking home a Lanikai Ukulele with custom RC 13 artwork solar carved into each by Brian Chandler, aka Solar B. Time Lapse Web Cast & Event Highlights: We have teamed up with Josh Pomer and Post Modern Surfer for the fourth year to create daily highlight packages and heats on demand for all finals. Log on to rinconclassic.com to catch all the action.

Bring your ID to check out the best boards our area has to offer. (10 a.m. – 4 p.m. all weekend)

• Official 2013 Quiksilver Rincon Classic organic T-shirt • 30th annual Rincon Classic re-usable bag by Surf Happens • Quiksilver or Roxy beanie • Teva shoes • VIP access to all of the contest festivities • Competitor bracelet that provides lunch and beverages for both days of the event, and entry into the SIMA Classic Sunday Awards ceremony at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum, complete with catering by Wahoo’s.

• Two raffle tickets and free entry into the Wave Hunters Grand prize drawing for dream surf trip for two to Las Flores resort in El Salvador.

(The Beach Raffle will be going on all weekend. Tickets are also available for sale $5 each. Proceeds go to partnering charities.)

Lanikai Ukulele Demos: Lanikai Ukulele demos at the Jensen’s Guitar tent. Pick one up, serenade the Queen, and strum your way around the point.

(10 a.m. – 4 p.m. all weekend)

RC 13 RULES 1. Park in marked stalls only

Arbor Skateboard Demos: Arbor Collective is the official skateboard sponsor of the Rincon Classic for the third year and will be bringing down a quiver of sidewalk surfboards.

2. Follow directions of parking

Wes Wilson will be hosting surfing specific warm-ups in the competitors area which will also feature Indo Boards, stretching mats, beanbags, and water.

Water Station & Food: Bring your re-usable drink tin and stay hydrated all weekend long. Food will be served by Wahoo’s Fish Taco, Mad Dogs, and Frooty Acai, along with beverages by, Frooty Acai, Caribbean Coffee, and Lucky Llama.

(violators will be towed).

guards and informational staff.

3. Do not cut through the

homeowners’ property, and stay off of the ice plant, natural foliage and private property.

4. Free surf in designated areas only.

5. Check in with the Shore Sheriff 15 minutes before your heat.

6. NO alcohol allowed on beach.

Our team of pro photographers are documenting the event and shooting every heat for your viewing pleasure.

Check out a slide show from the contest at the SIMA Classic Sunday awards ceremony and online at rinconclassic.com.

Competitors Area: Get loosened up before your heats with our team from Alki Wellness center and Wesley Wilson Fitness. Marc Grandle will be providing onsite chiropractic and massage care for competitors and spectators all weekend.

RC-8

Quiksilver demos will be on hand all weekend.

Channel Islands Surfboards will be on hand for demos.

Competitors Area will have Alki Welness on hand.

COBBLESTONE SPONSORS

HEADLINING SPONSORS

CONTRIBUTING SPONSORS: Alki DEEP Surf Magazine Surfline.com Indo Board Jensen’s Guitar Frooty Acai Dubock.com

PHOTO: JON SHAFER

Adam Lambert.

Seth Pulford & Deckers Outdoor Corporation The Surf Channel All of the amazing folks, sisters, brothers, aunties, uncles, & lifelong friends who have helped make this event happen year after year.

Shore Sheriff & Check In: Mike & Alma Billgren, Chris Keet, Darryl Miya, Tony Luna T-shirt & Surf Happens Area/ T-shirt & Entry Bags: Caterina Caligiuri, Eden Schmidt, Jade Perkins, Maaya Hensman, Lisa Luna, Rivana Russo Water Patrol: Captain Tony Luna, Travis Vogel, Andy Smalley, Spencer & Timmy Davis, Erik Laurabee, Danny Bralver, Tarik Khashoggi,

Loren Luyendyk, Doug Galati, Skip Saenger, Demi Boelsterli Competitors Area: Marc Grandle (Alki Wellness Center) Wesley Wilson (Wesley Wilson Fitness) Trophies: Lanikai Ukulele (Jensen’s Guitar & Brian Chandler) Gold Mountain Trading Company Jaya Wave (John Birchim) Skip Saenger Announcing Staff: Chris Brown, Chris Keet, Brad Jay, Darryl Miya, Special Guests Waste Management: Green Project Consultants (Tom & Alelia Oretsky) Set Up & Tear Down Crew: Danny Rodriguez, Jermiah Esparza,

Mike Billgren, Matt Coleman Christian Surfers Night Watchman: Steve Lichtig (Big Steve) Photographers: Jon Shafer (SantaBarbaraSurfer.com) Glenn Dubock, Branden Aroyan, Bill Tover Videographers: Josh Pomer (Post Modern Surfer) Chris Riel Volunteers: Doug Galati, Kailyn Noe, Aubrey Falk, Loren Luyendyk, Claire Callagy, Toyo Peluso, Robyn Wadden Salt Water Divas

Surf N Wear Beach House Sex Wax Jaya Wave Low Tide Rising Christian Surfers United States Santa Barbara Maritime Museum Mad Dogs Hot Spots & Caribbean Coffee Lucky Llama (Ryan & Ashley Moore) Famous Salt Water Divas Spirit Earth

Environmental Partners: Quiksilver Foundation Surf Happens Foundation Surfers Without Borders Surfrider Foundation Naples Coalition Charitable Partners: First Descents Surf Happens Foundation (Camp Hana Hou) Santa Barbara Maritime Museum

Artists: Poster photo: David Pu’u Poster Artwork & Website: Rick Tontz (Logandzyn) Trophy Logo: Brian Chandler (Solar B) Donating Artists: Brian Chandler (Solar B), John Birchim, Mike Kew, David Pu’u, Skip Saenger, Alexis Usher, L. Paul Mann

Classic Sunday Awards Ceremony: Toni Mackie, Jenny Keet, Greg Gorga, Charlie Schmidt, Eden Schmidt, Maaya Hensman Musicians: Spencer The Gardner Legends Gone Too Soon: Jeff White, Ray Strange, Chris Nancarrow, Bob Krause, Brandon Yates, Mike Fraley, Doctor Doug & Judy Meyers

Pete Mussio.

Bobby Martinez.

PHOTO: SHAFER

Communities of Carpinteria, Santa Barbara & Ventura California State Parks Rincon Point residents (In particular Debi Clark, Steve Halstead, the Taylor, Hogue & Meyers families) Geoff McFarland & Team HOA Event Staff and Sponsors Jim Knell Scott Brittingham Chad Wells, Luke Watson & the Quiksilver team Travis Lee, Tony Miller & Channel Islands Surfboards Al & Terry Merrick Britt Merrick Michael Kew

Jen Malkin Ethan Stewart, Todd Smith, Marianne Partridge & The Santa Barbara Independent Andres Nuño, Chuck Graham & DEEP Surf Magazine Ryan Ashton & The Quiksilver Foundation Andrew Jacobsen & The Arbor Collective Jeff Lauer & Wahoo’s Eric Hamor Marcello & Tiago Portes Dave Schauber The Moore Family Tarik Khashoggi Judging Staff Greg Gorga & The Santa Barbara Maritime Museum Kas Alves & Scosche Audio

PHOTO: TOVER

THANK YOU:

RC-9

S A G E E R I C K S O N

Wisdom Beyond Her Waves S TO R Y B Y G L E N N D U B O C K

A

ruler edged wave is running off the top of the point at C Street, well out of greedy reach of the hungry pack waiting for it to round the corner at Pipes and bend into the section that quickly peels in a parallel universe with the Ventura Speedway. A lady surfer air-drops into the peak, cranks a bottom turn that sends a fire hose of saltwater off her left rail then cracks a top turn that sends an equal amount of salty fluid blistering off her right rail. As though he was exhaling a tantric chant, the name “Sage” rolls respectfully off the lips of one of the veteran locals standing next to me as we watch her tear into each and every wave she rides that morning.

Sage Erickson—#1 on the Women’s World rankings—was given that name by her mom back on the day of her birth in 1990.

“Sage means wisdom and she wanted me to be wise.

Wisdom is so important as we all know in the life choices that dictate our futures, where we go with it and what is brought into our lives! I could only hope to have a little bit …”

In a move that would dramatically change Sage’s life and, eventually, the landscape of professional women’s surfing, the Erickson family took up residence on the famous North Shore of Oahu when Sage was just 9 years old. Her older brother Noah did well in the warm waters, but she was more interested in land-based sports like soccer. That all changed one day at Sunset Beach, the apex of world class surfing destinations.

“My family and I were having a beach day. After boogie boarding for a few I decided to snag a board on the beach and go for a paddle. My first wave I stood up at Vals, inside Sunset, and rode all the way to the beach. After that, I was

Working through her struggles in Rio. PHOTO: © A SP/DUNBAR

— continued

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Sage surfing her way to an =5th at the US Open.

PHOTO: © ASP/ROWL AND

www.DEEPZINE.com

45

S A G E E R I C K S O N

PHOTO: © A SP/CE STARI

Throwing a Caribbean fan at the Rip Curl Search in 2010.

hooked. I became in love with the passion of surfing and for the love of the ocean. It is the one thing that unites all the world together as one.

Think about how much pain and how much love is in it. The sea is my outlet for a good day or bad. It is something that all of us surfers know and understand, and it’s what keeps me going each and every day.”

Luckily for us, Sage came back to her hometown of Ojai to live and learn to love the surf in the 805. When not chasing the Women’s World Tour as it skips among surf zones and foreign latitudes, she can be found at her favorite spot at C Street.

“Most people are not the biggest fans of it, as they classify it as a mushy right, a longboard spot. But realistically there is a really fun left off the top that was created when the new upgraded parking area was built. While the pro scene or crowd tends to go to Emma Wood on high tide, I head to Pipes. It is generally uncrowded and fun. Being on the Pro Tour you are always a bit obligated to surf the contest area and get your practice in. When I am at home, that is the last thing I want to do. Ventura

PHOTO: © ASP/ROWL AND

Sage's brother Noah congratulates her on the beach at the US Open.

— continued

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: © ASP/DUNBAR

Rio vert.

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S A G E E R I C K S O N

A Rincon cutty.

good results came with confidence and an open mind.”

It’s a well-known fact that in order to succeed on the World Tour—or on your local wave—you need to have the right equipment under your feet. Sage has chosen Channel Island Surfboards to always carry her to the next level of her surfing. Her ride of choice is the Epoxy Whip, which is a refined Kelly model off of the Flyer.

“I couldn’t imagine being on anything else. Not only do their board’s work perfectly for me in every condition I surf or compete in but also the people inside the company are like a family. I am so appreciative and thankful for their unconditional support Brother and coach, Noah Erickson. throughout my career. I work with Simon Kile quite a bit. I don’t do much, it’s all him.

He works his magic, and I just tell him what feels right on the wave. Living so close to is so beautiful, and I love every second of it.” the warehouse is a huge advantage.”

Sage has become a force to reckon with on the world surfing stage. Like everyone, she has Another motivator for Sage is her brother Noah, who joined her on the tour and spent a great had her ups and downs, but as of late, her skills set has been serving her well and racking up the deal of time surfing with her. His belief in her abilities and his ability to make her laugh and enjoy points. (Finishing tied for 13th on the Women’s World Championship Tour and qualified for the it all helped to boost her competitive surfing to a new level.

2013.) Learning to trust those skills has become her focus.

“He has the natural ability to say the right thing in the right moment during events. He is “I really needed to not think so much and just trust my talents. Trust that I was where I was coming on tour next year, and I am thankful for his insight when it comes to just naturally good supposed to be, that I didn’t have to outperform my self-image just because I was coming up raw surfing. It’s refreshing. I also spent a lot of time just trusting the journey I am on, the things against some of the best surfers in the world. A lot of it involved figuring out my equipment, that God has planned for my life and each experience is all worth it, good or bad.” about being in the same competitive arena as Kelly Slater and Steph Gillmore and just preparing Sounds to me like some very sage advice for all of us to follow. mentally and physically. I was just learning to be present in the moment of each heat. My streak of

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

PHOTO: © A SP/KIR STIN

PHOTO: © A SP/KIR STIN

Rockin' at the Roxy Pro.

WHAT’S YOUR KOMUNITY PROJECT This column features a group or individuals that are helping out in their communities and trying to make a change for the good of Mother Earth.

It is brought to you by Komunity Project.

Delta High School High Academic Achievers on their first surf session.

Comeback Kid: The American Hero Story

BY SHAWN TRACHT / PHOTOS BY BRENT LIEBERMAN

T

he comeback is what the American is all about. The story, the conflict, the rising action, and the climatic moment when our favorite character rises from the depths of adversity to become a champion!

The reason why the American not only wants to be a champion, but also celebrates a champion so much, is because a champion overcomes life’s constant struggles en route to accomplishing his or her goal. One of the greatest parts of being a champion is the personal reward of knowing that you finally have become unstoppable in pursuit of your own dreams.

I teach English at Delta Continuation High School in Santa Maria, and on November 11, 2012, a hardworking group of my students showed their true champion spirit when they achieved high academic success with both their grades and attendance. For this, they were awarded a free surf lesson from Esteem Surf Shop in Pismo Beach.

I’ve been teaching for 10 years, and I’ve seen students rewarded with pizza parties, ice cream sundaes, and hot dog parties. However, nothing has ever brought stoke to students like catching that first wave.

Like any great story of comebacks and a never-quit attitude, 80 of 325 students from Delta Continuation High School achieved the academic standards of a 3.0 grade point average (GPA) or higher and 90 percent attendance or higher. Out of those 80, 32 signed up to receive the free surf lesson, and 16 actually showed up—16 brave souls who were terrified of the ocean yet enthralled to enter into the bond with Mother Nature.

Now you may be saying to yourself, “Wait, only 90 percent attendance and a 3.0 GPA?” However, you must remember this is the story of the comeback. You have to realize that many of the students at continuation high schools have fallen off the pace to graduate, some so far

Giovanni Martinez.

that they began continuation schools having hardly even shown up to their original public high schools. Moreover, the reason for the event was to reward the kids with the spoils of a champion and ignite a fire in them that leaves them addicted to success in school.

In my years teaching, one thing I have learned is that success leads to a more positive view of the world, and positivity is the fuel for more positivity. This is exactly why, after so much hard work and determination by my students, we decided to recognize them as a community, as an extended family. When our students begin to succeed in school for the first time—choosing a path toward graduation—we need to reward them in a way that fuels the momentum. They need to maintain the memory of success and cultivate a positive mindset that pushes them forward when they hit struggles later in the school year year and later in life.

At the beginning of the surf lesson, some of these students had never even been in the ocean before. By the end, many of them were bitten hard by the surf bug, and you could tell, in just one look, that they were going to be surfers for the rest of their lives. What a special gift for a student in need of a bright view amongst the many shadows that loom in the path of a teenager trying to find his or her way.

This is the story of the American comeback. The story of the American dream. The story of an American champion, our favorite story in the book!

Special thanks to everyone who was involved. Esteem Surf Shop for lending us surfboards and wetsuits and hooking the students up with free surf lesson. Photographer Brent Lieberman for shooting for free. Phil Rueff, a retired peace officer who worked 20 years with at-risk youth at the Los Prieto Boys Camp in Santa Barbara County, and Hoagies Restaurant who hooked up the students and teachers with their world famous Pismo Wrap. www.DEEPZINE.com

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NORTHERN EXPOSURE

Chasing Honesty

BY DAN HAMLIN / PHOTOS BY CALEB MARMOLEJO

Kilian Garland slotted in a chunky one.

The man behind the lens, Caleb Marmolejo.

T

The small, rural town of Orcutt sits about 10 miles inland from the ocean and has produced some talented surfers over the years, Kilian Garland and Nathan Winkles being the most notable. But recently emerging from Orcutt is an extremely talented lens-man by the name of Caleb Marmolejo. Though he can’t be defined as strictly a surf photographer, his love of surfing has naturally led him to combine two of his life’s passions.

Marmolejo is actually a world-class mountain bike racer. When most of his peer group was stepping into the professional ranks, he could have easily followed suit. But feeling the need to pursue a different route through life, he spent three months in the heart of a poverty-stricken zone in South Africa volunteering and helping however he could. While there, photography became much more than just about capturing a moment. “I love how selfless the act of taking photos can be,” said Marmolejo. “Many times the reaction someone has to a quality photo of themself is far greater than what it cost me, and I like to keep it that way.”

Marmolejo got an early start in photography. He says, “My passion for photography was birthed when I was about 9 years old. My grandpa had won this old Sony camera in a raffle and handed it down. I knew at that point there was something to come in the future with it.” I’m sure

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

semi-annual shoe sale!

January 31 - February 10, 2013

his grandpa had no idea what that little gift would eventually turn into.

Having experienced such extreme conditions in South Africa and his other travels has given Marmolejo a unique and inspired approach to his photography. When I asked him what he was hoping to portray through his photos his answer was simple, “Honesty. I feel like honesty is a rare thing these days when it comes to photos. I don’t strive for any specifics, but I guess if there is one thing I hope to portray it would be an honest image that people enjoy.”This philosophy can be seen in his work. His photos have a way of allowing the viewers to feel as if they were in the scene themselves, a rare and intangible gift in the art of photography.

A constant theme throughout my conversation with Marmolejo was his desire to use photography as a way to bless others. It’s refreshing to hear someone so talented and gifted have such a mature and selfless approach to his craft. Even his inspiration seems to come from a desire to give something through his photos. “Inspiration for my photos comes from new places and new people. I guess a lot of what inspires me would be the satisfaction of the viewer. I find serious motivation through appreciation.”

At only 20 years old, he has proven to be a true talent behind the lens. But it’s his gracious attitude and eagerness to help that sets his work apart. His affinity for surfing has meant an easy and natural crossover into surf photography, and it’s clear to me that he will find success with whatever route he chooses.

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51

Photo Essay Erin Feinblatt

Escape to Baja

BY CHUCK GRAHAM As a kid, slideshows of various National Parks at family gatherings captivated photographer Erin Feinblatt, but he didn’t pick up his first point and shoot camera until a trip to Spain in 1998. There he began to document the many experiences and observations that eventually led him to where he is now as a professional photographer.

A

recent graduate of Brooks Institute of Photography with an emphasis in commercial photography, the 34-year-old Feinblatt never strays too far from coastal California, and especially Baja. He’s been traveling the dirt roads of Baja every year since 1994, capturing the solitude, surf and exploration the peninsula has to offer. This issue’s photo essay is devoted to Feinblatt’s images of Baja.

“Baja life is simplified, stripped of the unnecessary complications of a pluggedin world,” explained Feinblatt. “One gets more in touch with themselves and the sights and sounds around them, and surfing becomes a simple act again."

Prior to devoting a career to photography, Feinblatt spent eight years as a wildlife biologist — continued

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Cave Painting, Sierra de San Francisco.

Kevin Naughton, afternoon trim.

The Baja rig according to Glen Horn, Mayor.

www.DEEPZINE.com

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Photo Essay Erin Feinblatt

Running from the rain, Sea of Cortez.

combing the most beautiful landscapes of Oregon and California, while observing the interactions of wildlife and the changing of the seasons.

“The observational skills I developed during that period of my life translate directly into my photographs,” continued Feinblatt. “I don’t strive to have a particular look or style, and I don’t want my photographs to be characteristic of a certain time or trend, rather I hope they are timeless accounts of the world I know, observe, and love.”

Like any career, if you want to stay on top of things you have to keep things fresh and interesting. As a photographer you have to keep your eyes and ears open while seeking out new projects, something Feinblatt is cognizant of. — continued Three months in Baja, one trip to the laundromat.

Kevin Naughton taking a lunch break.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Spy hopping, gray whale, Laguna San Ignacio.

Jubilaci贸n.

Chivas.

Gray whale fluke, Laguna San Ignacio.

Baja Lighthouse.

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Photo Essay Erin Feinblatt

“I recently bought a couple of old waterproof film cameras that I’m excited to swim with this winter and create a new body of work,” said Feinblatt. “I was privileged to be a cameraman for Keith Malloy’s film Come Hell or High Water last year and hope that the movie continues to inspire people. I’ve got a few other video/film projects in the works, and I look to these projects as creative outlets. I will continue to work on commercial and editorial projects and hope to get back to Baja this winter.”

To see more of Feinblatt’s work go to www.erinfeinblatt.com.

Weather comes, people go.

Ramon Arce, Sierra de San Francisco.

Owning the peak.

Fibber’s Paradise, it’s 5 o’clock somewhere.

COMEN SENSE

Long May you Run

BY CRAIG COMEN

N

PHOTO: CHUCK GRAHAM

eil Young sings it best, but our own stories are the real example. We have each had our share of vehicles, and they have taken us to places we could only dream of. From the childhood tricycle to the raised Toyota 4-Runner, our mode of transportation has carried all our friends, gear and history to doors and windows and portholes on adventures aplenty.

Back in the day, it was Dave Parmenter’s Opel Kadett that, whether push started or not, would take us to contest after contest, my “Great White Van” that would wind its way up toward Willow Creek on frosty mornings, and Weissmann’s huge Chrysler in which we would head to town for midnight rages.

As much as we don’t want to admit it, we are dependant on transportation, and each individual has his or her own style—crusty, rusty, shiny, lifted, lowered, fast or slow. Inside each of these cars, vans or trucks are stored habits ranging from retro twin fins, SUPs, to styles and tastes of food. The coins on the floor used to get us down the highway a few miles more, and the crumbs from our sandwiches have fed more than a few mice.

I’ve had Mercedes, Opels, VWs, Fords, Toyotas, Subarus, and more, and each one had its own character, smell and sustainability in a sense. The cars may be gone, but the memories are still lingering in my brain—sweating through the San Fernando Valley because we had to turn the heater on to keep from overheating, sleeping under the car the night before a contest in San Diego because we had nowhere to sleep, and breaking down in King City—enough stories and classic moments to make an HBO miniseries seem short.

There are those just starting their vehicular moments, and hopefully they are excited and feeling the adrenaline of adventure as they load their boards and turn the key. What I would give for a week in my Ford Econoline camping along the coast loaded up with friends, peanut butter, wax, wetsuits and Van Halen.

Thanks to the highways and infrastructure that allows us to get from here to there, and there to here. Thanks to the workers, the materials, the fortune we have to be able to have this experience.

Hopefully some of us are thinking of new modes of getting places that will not impact the very environment that we cherish. I know there are those out there that are using fuels that come from alternative sources, pedal power, and even horse and carriage. We owe it to ourselves, and generations to come, to make sure they can travel as we have and experience the wonders up the road. The philosophy of re-use, recycle and tread lightly can be applied to this dream of chasing our bliss as well.

Now my van houses toddler seats, toy trains and rice cake crumbs. How I fit my boards and wetties into it is tough at times, but still a part of the picture that needs to continue to be told. There comes a time when the gear in our backseat turns into our kids, and our ways

The author and his Isuzu Trooper hard at work in Chile.

of getting around become ways of safeguarding our loved ones. And for this we need to keep them running, for the better and for the worse, for as long as we can.

Long may we run.

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57

TRAVEL: Alaska

Alyeska Fjordlands STORY AND PHOTOS BY MICHAEL KE W The beach at Gore Point, not looking gory at all.

TWENTY-EIGHT: Feet, length of the black Lincoln Town Car

limousine in which Daniel Jones, Nico Manos, Trevor Gordon, and I are driven for three hours, starting at 3 a.m., from the seedy Anchorage hotel to the port of a deglaciated valley town, population 3,000.

“Just driving through that place makes me feel hungover, man.”

Astride his broken captain’s chair, gazing through thick glass at the fjord waters, bushy-browed Mike smiles and sips strong coffee. He’s happy. I’m happy. We’re on his boat now. The back of his navy Hammond's Reef of Alaska?

blue T-shirt shows a goofy-footer pulling into a tropical, head-high left over the words “Ride the Fury.”

Yes, we’d like to.

The port, groggy and foggy at 6:39 a.m., shrinks astern. Flanked by tall, white peaks, we’re southbound at eight knots inside the cramped third-story wheelhouse of this 48-year-old, 58-footlong steel purse seiner. Built in Seattle, she spent her commercial life salmoning off the southeast Alaskan coast and off Washington, dragging for bottom fish.

We’re not going fishing.

“Don’t you guys feel that way? Hungover?”

No. The town was dead. I saw nil but the dotty headache of orange streetlights and their hazy glow on orange sidewalks and orange storefronts and orange parked cars, roofed with orange snow. No humans except the gaunt convenience store clerk who sold me weak coffee and a peanut butter Clif bar. She was high on meth.

Thankfully, our fat chauffeur was not. Thankfully, I was not hungover—just one Alaskan Amber Ale in the hotel pub last night because, for a hophead like me, amber’s a dull beer.

Mike sips more coffee, swallows, exhales, and smiles again. Smug. The new floor heater is working. It’s warm in here. He leans over and taps a few keys on the laptop. On-screen, there’s a tempting nautical chart. The Kenai Fjords look like shredded witch fingers. Eagle talons. Bold headlands, wide bays, beachbreaks, coves. Pointbreaks. Rivermouths—lots of rivermouths. Scenic grandeur.

Attributing J. London, it’s to be an odyssey of the north.

SEVEN:Millimeters of neoprene required to sheathe extremities whilst surfing. Hoods and black 6-millimeter fullsuits seal the encumbrance.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

— continued

The Kenai Range.

Hawaii's Daniel Jones in a familiar position in a foreign land.

Many options for surf spots, but you

need a boat.

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59

TRAVEL: Alaska

Trevor Gordon, not at Hammond's.

Daniel Jones, not in Hawaii.

THIRTY-SEVEN:Degrees, Fahrenheit, of ocean water temperature, the

going rate of glacial-stream-fed sting. My hands burn. It’s bone-seeping cold.

We’re sitting rib-deep in dense, black water at a playful, shapely spot that Trevor likens to Hammond’s Reef, one of his (and Tom Curren’s) preferred waves in California. Unlike sunny Hammond’s, however, no surfers will flock to this beach. Unlike Hammond’s, no billionaires sleep within sight. Unlike Hammond’s, this reef is tucked back in a primordial fjord, fronted with crumbling rock spires and seal-flecked pinnacles, shadowed by dark mountains and licked by the longest glacial ice tongue in Kenai Fjords National Park.

Over there, behind the gray-boulder moraine beach and its gray till and low, serrated green line of spruce, white icebergs float in the lake. Two miles behind that lake is a massive white glacier, cracked and fissured, which means this wave experiences katabatic winds howling down off the

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Unsurfed left.

icefield, 5,000 feet up and 12 miles in. Brash ice chunks often float in the lineup, which occurs regularly, per page 91 of my kayaking guidebook: “Stay in deep water and away from the beach. The bottom rapidly shallows and accentuates the swell and surf.”

The windless morning’s drizzle has become rain and hail and the ambiance is a cold, drab gray, the black mountain trees melding with quiet browns of nude earth and smatterings of snow.

Downstairs in the boiler room, which is full of wetsuits, Daniel, a creature of temperature, labors out of his. He rubs his nose and cheekbones with the back of his numb hand. Two days ago, he surfed in boardshorts at Rocky Point.

“Yeah, we Hawaiians, we usually only come to Alaska to go snowboarding,” he says to bearded Nico, another creature of temperature but, as a year-round Nova Scotian, he thrives on the opposite scale. Nico’s already got his wetsuit/hood/booties/mittens off. He’s used to surfing with snow on

Rain gear required.

Nico Manos, channeling Nova Scotia.

Daniel Jones.

Nico Manos, unconcerned with

the fact that there are no roads

to this surf spot.

TWELVE:Feet, in height, of the swell. A certain rivermouth cove could massage it, Mike

Trevor at a virgin sandbar on a remote island.

the beach. He says the vibe here is reminiscent of home, if only home had spell-binding glaciers and 4,000-foot sea cliffs.

FORTY-NINTH:State of the U.S.A., its largest and most northern. Also an exclave. Spiritually, Alaska is another country.

TWO:Huge icefields, named Harding and Sargent. Somewhere behind each estuarine spot we

surf, they coat the Kenai Mountains up to a mile thick.

EIGHTY:

Times the crabber’s fatality rate of the average worker. On average, one crabber dies weekly during Alaska’s crab-fishing seasons.

says, the region’s “crown jewel” of the spots he knows about. He’s been talking about it all week.

Studying his poster-sized nautical charts, I reckon that, on the right day or hour, there could be dozens of crown jewels along the 250 miles of Kenai Fjords seacoast. Goodness knows there is ample daylight this month.

“We can get there at 8:30 p.m. and still have a two-hour session,” he says with a grin.

But first, it’s a rough ride. Huddled in the wheelhouse, we pound west through the rain, rounding an exposed cape, a balding head of granite with hairs of spruce trees and smears of dirty snow. Its base has 13 tall, narrow black sea caves placed like sharp teeth. Joy for a spelunker. Thousands of murres and kittiwakes swoop about. Three sea lions bark. We slosh past porpoises and a pod of orcas.

Out the starboard exterior, a large gray trawler steams east, likely for shelter as fishing today would be tough. Daniel, lounging on the couch aside Mike in an unzipped black hoodie, takes a swig from his bottle of Alaskan Black IPA. “You think that’s a crab boat?” he asks.

“Nah, not around here,” Mike says. “They’re probably out for halibut. Salmon in summer. Crab season doesn’t start till October.”

“How many crab seasons are there?”

“The opilio and the king crab are the two big ones, but then there’s a different king crab way up north, near St. Matthew Island, and there’s the Adak brown crab. Some years, there’s a crab I see that’s a cross between the king crab and opilio.”

— continued

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61

TRAVEL: Alaska

“How do the dudes know which one they’re fishing for?” Nico asks.

“Crabs live in different areas and at different depths.”

“Do the same boats hit them all up?” Daniel asks.

“Pretty much. Some of them, there’s only a couple of boats that fish.”

“A lot of the boats aren’t on that one TV show, right?”Trevor asks, referring to Deadliest Catch.

“Yeah. For the most part, the dudes on that show are a bunch of real frickin’ idiots.”

“Really?” Daniel asks.

“Yeah. I’ve bought crab from all those guys.”

Nico Manos attempts to “Does the TV channel pay them?”Trevor asks. boost where no surfer had “Nope.” boosted before.

“Why are they doing it if they’re not getting paid?”

“Just trying to get famous.”

“So why do they pick the idiots?” Nico asked. “Just to make for a more interesting cast?”

“Yeah. A bunch of ‘em are crackheads. One night after the show was done taping, one of the guys was found dead in a hotel room.”

“Do a lot of those fishermen have to smoke crack to stay awake?” Daniel asks.

“In the old days, they were all cokeheads, when there was a lot of money, and nobody knew how dangerous it was. You had to pretty much go around the clock to catch your share, or more than your share.”

In three hours: Lumpy rivermouth tubes. Shallow and hard-hitting. East-wind slag bump. Rain.

Daniel: “Coldest session ever.”

ONE: Little-known fact: Two beachbreaks cradled by the ragged, most swell-exposed barb of the Kenai Fjords can be almost flat, like they are the day our marine forecast had promised a 16-foot southeast swell. Guidebook: Here, the intense surf is constant. The waters are renowned for their intensity.

Previously unknown: The largest Alaskan seas Captain Mike has faced. “I don’t know,” he says, chewing a bite of banana muffin. “I try to avoid them.” Later, he reveals: “There were these white lines, standing waves, and all I could do was steer right into them. My pilothouse was 60 feet above the water, and for three waves in a row, I couldn’t see a thing.”

What you probably know: Sixty-foot waves are big waves.

Partially true fact: The Kenai Fjords possess many slabs and at least one world-class surf spot. This wave may or may not employ Jeffrey’s Bay, Mangamaunu, Malibu, Scorpion Bay, Seaside, or May’s Point.

Unequivocally true: I left Alaska with a hangover.

to be Trevor found his twin-fin shortboard

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

adept at surfing fast and loose.

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BOARD TRACHTING

WHITE OWL SURFBOARDS

“Santa Barbara Stubbie”

“I

Tracht torquing the Stubbie.

PHOTO: LIEBERMAN

BY SHAWN TRACHT don’t f^#@ing make fun boards, Shawn!” said one of my new good friends, Gregg Tally, when I asked him about how my new 6’7” Santa Barbara Stubbie would ride.

“I make boards that can surf any condition, yet surf with serious conviction when the waves are pumping! This board surfs with style and torques so hard off the bottom that half the board to the stringer is going to be buried so deep you’re going to experience some of the best boomeranging bottom turns of your entire life!”

Lost in the confusion of contemplation and a wide, round-nosed, 6’7 single fin, I was caught between a feverish zing of boyhood anticipation and a thought that this Santa Barbara legend was way too full of himself and completely full of sh%*.

Yet ... he wasn’t.

Keep reading.

out so well it has become my top selling shape this year.

As I’ve stated, these Stubbies are a direct copy of that ancient template, but I’ve modernized and experimented with the hydrodynamic contours. I’ve designed these boards for speed, power, and maneuverability. I’ve put a rounded or barrel Vee on them as well as a soft chine with various flat areas as well as pinched rails.

I can’t stress enough how important the correct fin and positioning of the fin is on these boards. Use the wrong size fin and place it incorrectly, and the board just doesn’t perform as well. I’m currently using Larry Allison’s 10” flex fin and I’ve been super stoked on the results. This fin gives the full slingshot effect off the bottom. The Stubby is primarily made for point break surf, but will work well whenever you have some wave face to project off the bottom, pocket it, then step on da gas. It’s one of the fastest boards you’ll ever ride.

Shaper’s Take:

Surfer’s Take

The Santa Barbara Stubbie was designed and produced by George Greenough and Michael Cundith in 1966 at the original Wilderness shop in the old Ice House on Cabrillo Boulevard. It was templated off of one of Greenough’s balsa kneeboards and was basically a long kneeboard that looked like a short longboard. These Stubbies were single-fin displacement hulls, which evolved into having concaves and chines as well as a rounder tail and narrower nose.

The Stubbies I’m shaping these days are a direct copy of an original template from those days found during the destruction of the second Wilderness shop. My friend and outstanding shaper, Ryan Lovelace, scored this template from a fellow he met in the Rincon parking lot who worked on the destruction job of the shop, and Ryan kindly allowed me to create a new template off this old and terribly deteriorated piece of tar paper. I’m not sure I ever intended to make a Stubbie, but I did want to preserve that shape. Eventually, Michael Kew talked me into shaping one and it turned

The Stubbie is all about the bottom turn. It’s about fading all the way down the face, flattening out the belly of the board towards the beach for a moment, and then torqueing all your weight with all of your momentum into your toe side rail to set up one of the coolest boomeranging bottom turns of your life. It’s like you coil up with the board, and then burst off the bottom with lightening speed within a buttery smooth ‘70s flow.

The reason I asked Tally if this board rode like a fun board is because it shares many visual characteristics to the fun board when looked at with the naked eye. Yet these two boards are worlds apart. To me, fun boards are slow, stiff, and, well, boring to ride. I dig surfing a longboard, and thrive surfing boards in the six-foot and under range because of how maneuverable small boards are.

The Stubbie, because of its hydrodynamic bottom contours, make this 6’7” mega wave catcher seem like it’s a 5’7” fish! A fun board kind of goes straight and can sometimes hit the lip. A Stubbie

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Tracht with the SB Stubbie. PHOTO: LIEBERMAN

WHITE OWL SURFBOARDS

and/or advanced surfers who want to push their surfing style to the next level.

Shaper: Gregg Tally, White Owl Surfboards

Surfboard Tester, Shawn Tracht’s Normal Shortboard: 5’10” x 18” x 2”

How to Order: 6’7” is the smallest you want to go.

Call the Beach House to order based on your height, weight, and surfing ability.

Fin: 10” Larry Allison Fin Board’s Specialty: Boomeranging bottom turns, very fast, catches every wave possible This Board is Perfect For: Intermediate surfers who want to push their surfing past the fun board realms,

Tracht Ordered This Board: 6’7” long x 19” nose x 22” wide point x 16 3/4” tail x 2 ¾” thick Shaper’s Contact Info: White Owl Boards sold exclusively at Beach House Surf Shop in Santa Barbara 10 State St., Santa Barbara (805) 963-1281 Website: www.whiteowlsurfboards.blogspot.com Surfer’s Blog: www.surfwanderer.com

off your first hint of engaging the rail takes off out of the gates like the fastest horse you’ve ever ridden. The boards, visually, may look sort of similar, but they are night and day apart in performance.

Anybody who thrives in the water on classic contemporary surfboards, a bigger board, or likes taking soulful lines with more speed than you could ever imagine, should sell all their stock in the fun board, and make a call to purchase a Stubbie. I’m telling you, it’s made my life better as a surfer.

For a guy who’s ridden over 300 surfboards, there is such a unique stoke I get from the down the line speed, and baby, the bottom turn, that if I could only have five boards for the rest of my life, this would be one of them. It can surf small waves like a longboard, yet be the equipment that will also push your surfing to the next level very hard on the big days.

White Owl Surfboards are sold exclusively at Beach House Surf Shop in Santa Barbara, 10 State St. Call (805) 963-1281 for more information.

dane happens.

SANTA BARBARA SURFER Surf reportS • Swell forecaStS • photoS • VideoS • profileS

.com

Tally taking down the stringer. PHOTO: TRACHT

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65

Strokes and Stoke

PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

VIEW FROM THE HILL

INTERVIEW BY RYAN A. SMITH

A

n accomplished surfer, skilled artist, and former firefighter for the Los Padres National Forest and “Hotshots” crewmember, Vince Felix respects the roots of his passions with an eye for refinement ahead. Felix, a Ventura resident since he was a 1-year-old, recently allowed a quick glimpse into what he’s got his hands in now…

DEEP: How did you get interested in pinstriping?

Vince Felix: Well, I’ve always been fascinated by pinstriping, but I really got into it early-2008 and heavily started doing it in 2009.

DEEP: What’s the history of the technique?

VF: That’s hard to say. People have been doing line art for ages. Back in the Old West, the Wells Fargo stagecoaches all had pinstriping on them. It’s art embellishment. Not just pinstriping but actually sign painting, too. It’s one in the same. It’s basically fine art in a lowbrow form. Pinstriping in more modern times was done on hot-rods, classic cars, motorcycles. Now people are doing them on bicycles, again. Way back, all the old Schwinns and classic bicycles had pinstripes, all hand done. I think the modern style of pinstriping was invented by Von Dutch. It was how you embellished your car without simply making straight lines on it. It was almost a lost art thanks to the vinyl sticker world and computers. Sign painters back in the day used to make a lot of money and were always busy because everybody needed advertising on their buildings. Nowadays you can get a sticker done.

DEEP: Do you follow the Von Dutch method, or various styles?

VF: I’m still constantly learning, as we all are. I started out with the Von Dutch-y symmetrical patterns, trying to figure how to do it, how to use the brushes. Pinstriping brushes are so unique.

I’m still figuring out techniques to make certain strokes easier. The more you do it, the better you get, the faster you get.

DEEP: This is all free hand, no stencils, correct?

VF: There are templates out there to create a grid pattern that helps you keep things symmetric, and they’re great learning tools. Even some of the most experienced, legendary guys still use them sometimes for certain jobs, I would imagine. I used them for a while and tried to steer away from that because I liked the practice of being able to draw a symmetrical or asymmetrical pattern just free form.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

Northern LA County surfboard R&D session with Vince.

DEEP: As far as “canvases,” what do you paint?

VF: (Laughs) At first I painted anything that would stay still. My whole bathroom –mirror frames, toilet seat, pictures, soap and toothbrush holders – everything is hot-rod pinstriped in my bathroom. Now I do a lot of motorcycle helmets, some roller derby helmets for girls. I’ve done a few cars, getting into a lot more motorcycles, working with people trying to restore their bikes.

I’ve also been doing a lot of lettering, a lot of old school signage things.

DEEP: Do you create flash or anything before you start something new?

VF: No, there’s no flash (laughs), no flash, although some say that’s a good learning tool for pinstriping because it’s really hard to draw it with a pencil. But I found I suck at drawing, but I can paint. I just go for the paint.

DEEP: I first saw your work on a couple surfboards at an art show on The Avenue last year.

VF: Yeah, that was a surf exhibit that I put on at Stoneworks Gallery; I curated it along with my friend Christina Diaz from (E-VOLVED) Fine Art & Tattoo magazine. One was a Dennis Ryder special board and the other was a Wayne Rich.

DEEP: I hear you have been designing two signature surfboard models with Wayne Rich, yes?

VF: Yes. We did one longboard with refined dimensions to help make it user friendly but also very high-performance. It’s something I would ride but also somebody who wants a board to surf in that fashion would be able to jump on it and really enjoy it. Not too extreme in any manner.

DEEP: And what else, a single-fin log?

VF: Then we did a traditional, early-’60s outline with some really nice foils, soft rails—just a nice, traditional board.

DEEP: You’ve worked in surfboard factories, how involved were you in creating the final products with Wayne?

VF: We talked about how I wanted the boards to feel paddling, catching waves, how it feels in

PHOTO: SMITH

FOLLOW US TO

Vince, inside his current Ventura art work space.

Da-Kine Post SURF GRINDS & SURF VIBE 1860 Ventura Blvd. • Camarillo GET SOCIAL (805) 484-5566 • OlasMexGrill.com W/US!

PHOTO: SMITH

Santa Barbara’s Premier Surf School "Devil Tiki" (center), one of Vince Felix's first creations, pinstriping on a laminated bandana wrapped metal shelf, plus leather and spikes.

the water, on the waves, but we also wanted to make them not specifically just for me to ride.

Obviously a lot of people who buy boards off the rack buy them for the way they look. I wanted something that is very attractive on the shelf and also user friendly. That said, the quality and the aesthetics of the board needed to be high. We talked glass jobs, weight distribution in the glass jobs, colors, designs, and we came up with two boards that are all-around great.

We are very happy with the results.

DEEP: Do you see similarities between the pinstriping world and the surf world?

VF: Just being passionate. They’re both just free flow, super flowing. That’s probably why I like them both so much. And they’re both individual acts.

DEEP: What’s planned for 2013?

VF: I have an art show exhibit at the Agenda trade show in Long Beach in conjunction with Iron and Resin and Flexfit hats. And then 2013 is just pushing forward and building a business with my art. I’m getting a lot of requests to do cars and trucks and motorcycles, so that’s going to require having a space to do them in, time to do them, and the ability to advertise the work that I have been doing and that I will be doing here in the future.

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67

GREEN ROOM

Save the Waves Film Fest PHOTO: JAMES SATTERSTROM

BY KARA PETERSEN

O

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

From left, Chris Malloy, Yvon and Malinda Chouinard.

PHOTO: JAMES SATTERSTROM

68

PHOTO: WILLIAM HENRY

n November 2, legends of the surfing and environmental communities came out to support the Save the Waves Coalition at the first Santa Barbara appearance of the third annual Save the Waves Film Festival, which also makes stops in San Francisco and Santa Cruz. With legends like Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard in the crowd and surfing champion Tom Curren on the stage, it was a special evening under the red glow of the Arlington’s marquee.

The Jon Swift Band rocked the VIP reception on the Arlington patio in the shade of the historic theater’s spire tower. Guests were greeted with Peligroso Tequila and Ocean Vodka sponsors along with Guayaki Yerba Mate whose partnership not only offered excellent support to Save the Waves but also created a tasty beverage for festival goers. Other local sponsors included Loa Tree and Hotel Indigo.

The party kept rocking once it moved inside the theater where Todd Hannigan took to the stage. As he strummed his first chords, Hannigan told the audience that just days before he had been putting the final touches on the premiering film, “Groundswell,” with filmmaker Chris Malloy together in a studio in Ojai. Hannigan’s music scored the film. His soulful guitar strumming complemented the majestic cinematography.

Friday night’s showing was the world premier of Malloy’s latest film, which chronicles the ecosystem of British Columbia’s rural coast. While surfing its freezing breaks the crew comes in close contact with the beautiful environment and the beautiful people who call it home—seeing bears on the beach on a daily basis is not something many other surf spots can boast. It is precisely for that reason that Raincoast Conservation Foundation and the First Nations people are working so hard to save this land from oil companies who threaten to build a pipeline across its pristine mountains. The scariest part of the oil extraction plan is that oil companies want to ship the petroleum through an intricate and rugged network of waterways. The film was a perfect fit for the evening, a prime example of the efforts of surfers to protect the environment and their intricate understanding of complex ecosystems that form waves.

After Hannigan’s set, film fest goers were treated to a set from The White Buffalo. The crooner started the evening off with a love song in tribute to his wife’s birthday. Then he rocked the crowd with his deep voice and deep lyrics. Local legend, Tom Curren graced the stage next. Love was in the air that night—Curren also played a love song for his wife’s birthday. Curren played three songs, demonstrating his talent out of the water.

In addition to “Groundswell,” four other short films showed. “Ode to California” also made its world premiere. The short film by Patrick Trefz is an experiment in both film and beach style and highlights the wilderness surfing experience. In “Yukon Kings” by Emmanuel Vaughn-Lee, a Yup’ik Tribe fisherman passes on traditions to his grandchildren in the hope that they will continue to stand up to the forces that threaten their culture and environment.

Friday night in Santa Barbara was also the world premiere for "Yukon Kings." Chilean filmmaker Rodrigo Farias sent his flick, “Negro Diamante,” or black diamond, to Santa Barbara for its North American premiere. The film brought warm water stories to the fest with the tale of Hawaiian big wave surfer Kohl Christensen’s unexpected journey Rapa Nui. The final film told the story of an old surfboard becoming new again. Harry Perrone brought his film up from Brazil to fest for its West Coast premiere.

From left, an unknown guest, Kevin Hillyer, Dean Latourrette and Will Henry at the pre-party.

The Save the Waves Coalition works with the World Surfing Reserve Foundation to protect surf breaks around the world. Founded by local surfer and photographer Will Henry, STW was started when Henry worked to preserve a special spot in Portugal. Henry quickly realized that surf spots come together under unique circumstances and are part of a very delicately balanced ecosystem.

By protecting waves we are actually protecting the entire ecosystems. Surf spots have an inherent community, social, historic and cultural value in addition to their economic value.

After recent victories in Santa Cruz and Malibu, Save the Waves is working to make our own Rincon the next World Surfing Reserve.

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STORY AND PHOTO BY DEREK DODDS ON TAP!

A

t some point when I was a kid I discovered a place that would be mine for the rest of my life—the mysterious ocean. Yet, sometimes I struggle with both—the ocean and my life—as they unfold in front of me in uncontrollable ways. This friction seems to lessen when I embrace generosity and gratitude, and in this spirit I’ve been contemplating how to give back as we approach the end of 2012 and pass into the New Year. I felt this would be a good opportunity to put the spotlight on those people who have dedicated their lives to protecting the sea.

The ocean, that playground of everlasting joy for surfers, is my sanctuary and yours, but parts of it are sick and require our help. This planet is 70 percent ocean and we need to support the organizations that are part of its stewardship. Being connected to something greater than ourselves is at the core of our being.

Laird Hamilton said it well, “For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call insanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going downhill when we stop taking risks.”

Taking risks also means standing up for who and what we are. It means recognizing that we are not alone, and that our actions impact the world around us. In this issue, I am dedicating my article to the heroes of ocean conservation. I encourage you to support an organization listed on page 76, become a volunteer or offer your services to help further their mission.

This list is mainly for California; to see an international list with 100 worldwide organizations that are committed to healing the oceans, go to bit.ly/V0NwCi. If you’d like a PDF of the complete list, email me at derek@wavetribe.com, and I’ll send it right over. Happy New Year!

— continued

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GREEN ROOM COASTAL WATERSHED COUNCIL 345 F Lake Avenue, Santa Cruz, CA 95062 (831)-464-9200 www.coastal-watershed.org

CORAL 351 California Street, Suite 650, San Francisco, CA 94104 (415) 834-0900 www.coral.org

DEEP SEA CONSERVATION COALITION www.savethehighseas.org

EARTH ISLAND INSTITUTE 300 Broadway, Suite 28 San Francisco, CA 94133 (415) 788-3666 www.earthislandinstitute.net

ENVIRONMENT CALIFORNIA 3435 Wilshire Blvd. #385, Los Angeles, CA 90010 (213) 251-3688 www.environmentCALIFORNIA.org

ENVIRONMENT NOW 2515 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, CA 90403 (310) 829-5568 www.environmentnow.org

ENVIRONMENTAL DEFENSE CENTER 906 Garden Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 963-1622 www.edcnet.org

GREAT WILDERNESS 2312 Russell Street, Berkeley, CA 94705 (510) 499-6473 www.greatwilderness.org

➟

ALGALITA MARINE RESEARCH FOUNDATION 148 Marina Drive, Long Beach, CA 90803 (562) 598-4889 www.algalita.org

AMERICAN CETACEAN SOCIETY P.O. Box 1391, San Pedro, CA 90733 (310) 548-6279 www.acsonline.org

AMIGOS DE BOLSA CHI CALIFORNIA P.O Box 1563, Huntington Beach, CA 92647 (714) 840-1575 www.amigosdebolsachiCalifornia.org

BLUE OCEAN SCIENCES (609) 683-1134 www.blueoceansciences.org

CALIFORNIA COAST OCEAN 1330 Broadway, 13th Floor, Oakland, CA 94612 (510) 286-0934 www.coastandocean.org

CALIFORNIA COASTAL COALITION 1133 Second Street Suite G, Encinitas, CA 92024 (760) 944-3564 www.Californialcoast.org

CALIFORNIA COASTKEEPER ALLIANCE (CCKA) PO BOX 3156, Fremont, CA 94539 www.Californiacoastkeeper.org

CENTER FOR OCEANIC AWARENESS, RESEARCH AND EDUCATION 5245 College Avenue #808, Oakland, CA 94618 (510) 495-7875 www.coare.org

CALIFORNIA OCEAN COMMITTED ORGANIZATIONS

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GREEN ORGANIZATIONS www.green-patriot.com

HEAL THE BAY 1444 9th Street, Santa Monica, CA 90401 www.healthebay.org

HEAL THE OCEAN 735 State Street, Suite 201 Santa Barbara, CA 93101 www.healtheocean.org

LOS ANGELES AND SAN GABRIEL RIVERS WATERSHED COUNCIL 700 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles, CA 90012 (213) 229-9945 www.lasgrwc.org

MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute 7700 Sandholdt Road, Moss Landing, CA 95039 www.mbari.org

MONTEREY BAY NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARY 299 Foam Street, Monterey, CA 93940 (831) 647-4201 www.montereybay.noaa.gov

OCEAN FUTURES SOCIETY 325 Chapala Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 899-8899 www.oceanfutures.org

ORANGE COUNTY COASTKEEPER 3151 Airway Ave. Suit F-110 (MAP), Costa Mesa, CA 92626 www.coastkeeper.org

PRBO CONSERVATION SCIENCE 3820 Cypress Drive #11, Petaluma, CA 94954 (707) 781-2555 www.prbo.org

PROJECT AWARE FOUNDATION 30151 Tomas Street, Suite 200, Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 (949) 858-7657 http://www.projectaware.org

REEF PROTECTION INTERNATIONAL 300 Broadway, Suite 28, San Francisco, CA 94133 (415) 788-3666 http://www.reefprotect.org

SAN DIEGO COASTKEEPER 2825 Dewey Road, Suite 200 San Diego, CA 92106 www.sdcoastkeeper.org

SANTA BARBARA CHANNELKEEPER 714 Bond Ave, Santa Barbara, CA 93103 (805) 563-3377 www.sbck.org

SAVE JAPAN DOLPHINS Earth Island Institute, 2150 Allston Way, Suite 460, Berkeley, CA 94704-1375 (510) 859-9100 www.savejapandolphins.org

SAVE OUR SHORES 345 Lake Avenue, Suite A, Santa Cruz, CA 95062 (831) 462-5660 www.saveourshores.org

SAVE THE WAVES COALITION 3500 Coast Highway Post Office Box 183, Davenport, CA 95017 (831) 426-6169 www.savethewaves.org

SEA SPACE 13000 Gregg St., Poway, CA 92064 (858) 746-1100 www.seaspace.com

STRATEGIC OCEAN SOLUTIONS 1217 Wilshire Blvd. No. 3027, Santa Monica, CA 90408-3027 (310) 928-1537 www.healthyocean.com

SURFRIDER FOUNDATION P.O. Box 6010, San Clemente, CA 92674-6010 (949) 492-8170 www.nature.org

THE DAVID AND LUCILE PACKARD FOUNDATION 300 Second St., Los Altos, CA 94022 (650) 948-7658 www.packard.org

THE MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM 886 California Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940 (831) 648-4800 www.montereybayaquarium.org

THE POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE ASSOCIATION 1 Bear Valley Rd., Bldg. #70, Point Reyes Station, CA 94956 (415) 663-1200 www.ptreyes.org

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

SURF SHOP DOWN LOW

Surfinwest Serving Simi Valley

BY SHAWN TRACHT

S

urfing is not a sport; it is a lifestyle. It is refreshing to walk into a surf shop and actually feel welcome. If you think, breathe, and sleep the waves (no matter how much you get to surf), your soul is that of a surfer. That’s why Surfinwest, in Simi Valley, is so rad.

It is a surf shop, yes, but in actuality it is an all-inclusive surf club, welcoming the community of Simi Valley into the brotherhood Surfinwest Surf Shop in the far corner. of the lifestyle. Camaraderie is the key element of this lifestyle, as opposed to an exclusive group of guys and gals who think they’re too cool.

Walking into Surfinwest makes you feel like a surfer. Whether you have being surfing all your life or you are just walking in the door to start, Surfinwest is there to assist each and every surfer. This customer service oriented attitude is what has made Surfinwest the original, longest standing surf shop in Simi Valley, an institution for 36 years.

The staff shares its excitement and loyalty when it comes to helping someone buy a brand new surfboard. Travis Zajic, the owner, calls it the “Rider Guarantee.”

“Look, we all know how hard it is to pick out our next magic surfboard. People come to Surfinwest to buy their boards because we can share knowledge about surfboards and educate people to help get them on the right equipment,” said Zajic. “That being said, we stand behind what we do and the advice we give. When you buy a surfboard from Surfinwest, we give you a week to go out and ride it, and make sure you’re stoked on the board you chose. If for some reason you’re not digging it and it’s not the board you thought you wanted, we’ll trade it out for the board you want. The cool thing is that this hardly ever happens because we’re really good at listening to what our customers are saying and helping them find the right board on the first try! I can’t tell you how many customers call me back a week after they buy their board and are just so stoked on life!”

The whole thing about surfing is having fun, catching waves, and telling surf stories all day long when you’re not in the water. Surfinwest Surf Shop is all about including each and every customer in that lifestyle.

Talking shop at Surfinwest.

Surfinwest Surf Shop Open Monday - Saturday, 10 - 6 p.m.

Sunday, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.

1727 E Los Angeles Ave. Simi Valley, CA 90365 805.526.8801 www.surfinwestshop.com

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MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

David Byrne in the last '70s...

and now.

UCSB Arts and Lectures Concert Series

First Half of UCSB Season Showcase Big Shows STORY AND PHOTOS BY L. PAUL MANN

T

he 2012-13 season of the University of Santa Barbara’s Arts and Lectures series started in grand style with a sold out show featuring Elvis Costello at the crown jewel of Santa Barbara theaters, The Granada. The opulent opera house was a perfect setting for the mighty minstrel’s extended new show, “2054 the Centenary Show.”

Similar in structure to Costello’s solo show at the nearby Arlington Theater a few years ago, this tour offered up a more extensive and detailed evening of music. Costello, once the angry youth at the forefront of the new wave rock movement, is now a feisty middle-aged man who has replaced his teen angst with a sharpened wit. Costello, in fact, is an English minstrel in the classic sense.

His technique of telling a tale before nearly every song is reminiscent of the recent shows by funny man, and Grammy winning banjo player, Steve Martin (also and Arts and Lectures event).

But where Martin relies on his veteran comic skills to tell hilarious antidotes to his songs, Costello relies on a more history laden sarcastic approach to storytelling. The sold out, marathon, three-hour show was the beginning of the most ambitious season ever for

Chumash Casino Offers Up Classic Rock Concerts

Toto.

UCSB Arts and Lectures.

The second show of the season was fittingly held at the university’s own Campbell Hall.

The nearly two-hour solo performance by prodigious singer/songwriter Rufus Wainwright was well suited to an academic environment, ripe with witty banter and political posturing amidst a brilliant soundtrack of masterful music.

Wainwright played original music from his catalog of seven albums, one opera, and a host of other diverse musical projects. The feisty singer with a remarkable voice moved effortlessly through the night from piano to guitar. For nearly two hours Wainwright played his fascinating music, usually with minstrel style banter before each song. He would offer up witty antidotes covering everything from the personal inspiration of certain songs to his outspoken political views.

The next show featured David Byrne, the former fiery front man of Rock and Roll Hall of Famers The Talking Heads. He played at the Arlington Theater in 1979 with the B-52’s, in what may have been one of the best live shows I have witnessed there. That show, at the forefront of the “New Asia.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY L. PAUL MANN

T

he Chumash Casino Resort wound down its 2012 season with concerts by some of the biggest names in classic rock—Toto, Ian Anderson of Jethro Tull and Asia.

The Grammy winning rock group Toto, whose mega hit songs in the 1980’s helped sell 35 million records worldwide, have just returned from a European tour. Their first show back in the U.S., and one of only two California stops on their current world tour, took place on September 13 at the Chumash Casino Resort.

The band arrived onstage just after 8 p.m., right on schedule, and proceeded to play a 90-minute, high energy set, showcasing their immense talents as musicians. The unofficial emcee of the night was master guitar player, Steve Lukather, or “LUUUC!,” as his most avid fans like to call out to him. The guitarist, one of three original members still touring with the band, offered humorous banter and anecdotes before many of the songs. He told one story of recording a song with legendary Motown producer Berry Gordy while a young black kid sat in the corner and kept repeating in a high pitched voice, “that’s a really funky beat,” while they were recording. The not so veiled Michael Jackson

72

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

reference was appropriate because the former pop star’s Neverland ranch is just a few miles from the resort, but also because the brilliant song-masters of Toto blended a mix of rock, soul, jazz, blues, and a good deal of funk to create their sound.

On October 18, Ian Andersen, famed front man of classic rock band Jethro Tull, brought his 40th anniversary tour celebrating the “Thick As a Brick” album to the resort. The show featured the landmark concept album in its entirety, performed by an array of veteran rock musicians. After an intermission the band returned to perform Andersen’s latest album, “Thick as a Brick 2,” also in its entirety. An encore of Jethro Tull’s early classic “Locomotive Breath” brought a flash of energy from Andersen’s past as he pranced about the stage like the mad minstrel of his youth.

Asia performed on November 8, bringing together four original members of England’s first progressive rock super group for their 30th anniversary tour. The original members, including John Wetton (bassist/vocalist), Carl Palmer (drummer), Geoff Downes (keyboardist), and Steve Howe (guitarist) left their successful British groups, Yes, Emerson Lake and Palmer, King Crimson, and The

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Rucus Wainwright.

Wave” music movement, introduced many in the audience to a whole new genre of rock music.

Since the demise of the historic group, Byrne has embarked on a solo career, experimenting with a dizzying array of musical genres. His latest collaboration on his newest album, “Love This Giant,” features singer-guitarist Annie Erin Clark, better known by her stage name St. Vincent. She began her professional music career as part of the experimental pop group Polyphonic Spree.

The October 11 show at the Arlington featured the new ensemble who created the album.

An array of horn players (eight people strong), supplemented by a drummer and percussionistkeyboard player made up the backbone of the group. Byrne exhibited the same intense glare that he had on the same stage 33 years prior, but his hair has turned to a ghostly white and he has grown a bit of a middle age paunch. The bulk of their two-hour set featured mostly the new album in its entirity. But it was the band’s foray into classic Talking Heads hits from the that had the crowd dancing in the aisles.

For a calendar of the 2013 USCS Arts and Lectures event visit www.artsandlectures.sa.ucsb.edu.

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Buggles, respectively, to form Asia. Asia produced a host of mostly mellow pop hits and crooning love ballads.

In their hour and a half show, the band seemed to offer up a balance between Asia’s soft pop hits and brilliant solos harkening back to the members’ more heady work in the ‘70s, which seemed to appeal to most fans in the audience. Asia is a live music conundrum—four brilliant progressive rock musicians dishing out lightweight pop music hits interspersed with brilliant moments of jam rock musicianship. It’s those brilliant moments that make Asia a band worth seeing.

The Chumash Casino offers up a great concert experience, with reserved seating capped at 1,400 people. The venue has spectacular lighting, awesome acoustics, and two giant high definition video screens. Professional camera operators work diligently to capture the action onstage from several angles, adding another layer of excitement to the intimate gathering. Waitresses even hand out free bottled water and coffee at every event.

For the list of upcoming events in 2013 at the Chumash visit www.chumashcasino.com. www.DEEPZINE.com

73

Final Frame I

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

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Final Frame II

Brought to you by Endless Summer Bar & Grill Kilian Garland in business attire flies first class.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2013

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