Great Northwest Wine magazine Summer 2023

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SUMMER 2023 | VOL. 2, NO. 3

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COVER STORY | by Eric Degerman

L’Ecole N° 41’s position is rock-solid in the front row of the Walla Walla Valley wine industry

A VINE START | by Eric Degerman

Work of the Meritage Alliance deserves respect from wineries, consumers

THE WINE KNOWS | by Andy Perdue

In the hands of a talented winemaker, Viognier can hold some charm

SWIRL, SNIFF, SIP | by Ken Robertson

Hospitality, history found at Wente Vineyards leads to lifetime of wine appreciation

ELLEN ON WINE | by Ellen Landis

Tom Mortimer’s expedition to Oregon’s Parrett Mountain lands at Le Cadeau Vineyard

RISING STARS | by April Reddout

Even Johansen’s path to Sylvi Wines includes some of West Coast’s most famous wineries

VINTAGE 2023 REPORT | by Eric Degerman

Arctic blast in December devastates British Columbia vines

GEM STATE REPORT | by Jim Thomssen

Walla Walla wineries bring their tour to downtown Boise for first time

PUGET SOUND PROFILE | by Dan Radil

Family behind Pacific Growers begins to win awards as Van Vino Vineyard

LIBRARY TASTING | by Eric Degerman

A look back at L’Ecole N° 41 begins deliciously with 1983 Merlot

L’ECOLE HIRES NEW COO | by Eric Degerman

Ryan Pennington leaves Ste. Michelle for a leadership role in Lowden.

TASTING RESULTS | by Eric Degerman

11th Cascadia International proves Idaho continues to produce gems

PHOTOS ON LEFT

L’Ecole winemaker Marcus Rafanelli and his team work on the northern part of the Lowden campus. The acclaimed Cab Franc by Van Vino is grown on Red Mountain by the family at Kiona. Idaho and British Columbia make a splash in the Cascadia International sweepstakes.

WINE

Since 1998, our team of journalists has set out to help identify award-winning wines from the Pacific Northwest and to share the stories of those behind them. We focus on those in the cellar and among the vines who work with fruit from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia, Idaho and Montana. Our coverage includes those restaurateurs, merchants and ambassadors working to promote the Northwest as one of the wine world’s leading destinations. Along the way, we continue to pay homage to the historic figures responsible for our industry’s delicious past, present and future.

CEO, Eric Degerman

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF eric@GreatNorthwestWine.com & CO-FOUNDER

PUBLISHER Jerry Hug jerry@GreatNorthwestWine.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Ken Robertson & COLUMNIST

STAFF Richard Duval PHOTOGRAPHER

COLUMNISTS Ellen Landis

Andy Perdue

April Reddout

CONTRIBUTORS Dan Radil Jim Thomssen

CONTRIBUTING Dan Radil

PHOTOGRAPHERS Lionel Trudel

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lisa L. Vogt Lisasdesignworks@gmail.com

ADVERTISING SALES Jerry Hug

Jerry@GreatNorthwestWine.com (509) 947-9422

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Mailing address: Great Northwest Wine LLC 8524 W. Gage Blvd. A-244 Kennewick, WA 99336

COVER PHOTO

© 2023 Great Northwest Wine A publication of Wine News Service

Marty Clubb stands in Ferguson Vineyard, the Walla Walla Valley planting he dedicated to the founders of L’Ecole N° 41 Winery in Lowden, Wash. (Richard Duval Images)

Merit, heritage surround helpful Meritage concept

Each of us has something that bugs the crap out of us. For my wife, one of those is my gum chewing.

ERIC DEGERMAN

Because I write about wine, my biggest pet peeves seem to involve the misuse of “Meritage.”

Vintners ignorant of its history and its definition should not be using it. And for those who do know, well, they need to coach their customers on how to pronounce it.

A First World problem for sure, yet the purpose of the Meritage Alliance has merit. It’s also operated by a membership that would hope that winery owners pay for the right to use the nonprofit groupʼs trademarked word.

This spring, while setting up for a competition, there was a red wine that carried “Meritage” on the label. Syrah was a component — in this case, the dominant red grape in the blend. The winery had no clue about the purpose of the program.

Meritage is a mashup — a portmanteau — of “meritorious heritage.” It is an American word, NOT a French word. Merit + age. It doesn’t rhyme with garage, and it has nothing to do with a Northern Rhône blend from the appellation known as Hermitage. (That’s air-ME-tahj). Heck, even the historic home of President Andrew “Old Hickory” Jackson rhymes with Meritage.

The standards established by the Meritage Alliance are straightforward:

• “Red wine may be designated as Meritage if it is made from a blend of two or more of the following varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmènére. No other varieties can be in the blend, and no single variety may make up more than 90 percent of the blend.”

• “White wine may be designated as Meritage if it is made from a blend of two or more of the following varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle du Bordelais. No other varieties can be in the blend, and no single variety may make up more than 90 percent of the blend.”

The proliferation of proprietary red blends produced in California during the 1980s prompted a group of 30 wineries in Napa and Sonoma to address U.S. government regulations on labeling. They also would help the consumer by creating a reference point. If a winery was developing a wine with high expectations and aimed to command a high price, then the buyer deserved to know something about such a prestigious blend.

The group decided to stage a contest, which brought in 6,000 entries. According to legend, the winner received two bottles of every Meritage wine produced by each member for a decade. Acclaimed Napa winemaker Mitch Cosentino was the first to adopt the term — which he applied to a 1986 red.

In the Pacific Northwest, Chateau Ste. Michelle was among the first to become a member. The 1993 vintage marked the beginning of its Artist Series Meritage, and the usage continued on the front label through the 2011 vintage.

An early and steadfast supporter of Meritage was the late Harry McWatters, the Okanagan Valley vintner dubbed by a Canadian wine critic as “the Robert Mondavi of British Columbia.” At Sumac Ridge in Summerland, he was the first in Canada to bottle both a red and a white Meritage.

The list of British Columbia producers on the Meritage Alliance website is not deep, but it is more current than most in the U.S., including Chaberton, Jackson-Triggs, Lake Breeze, Moraine Estate, Nk’Mip and McWatters-led TIME Family of Wines.

For years, Wild Goose Vineyards bottled a Red Horizon Meritage and was a dues-paying member, but it recently included Dunkelfelder — a German grape. It dropped Meritage from the name.

Leslie Matheson, a longtime marketing professional and consultant in British Columbia, has spent the past decade focused on the Okanagan Valley wine industry working with brands such as Burrowing Owl, Noble Ridge and Wild Goose. Noble Ridge has three tiers of Meritage blends.

“We’ve explained it by saying, ‘We couldn’t use the term Bordeaux blend, like you can’t call sparkling wine Champagne, but that Meritage was what North America

has used to call its Bordeaux-style blends,’ ” Matheson said. “I think it’s well-understood by the consumer once it’s been explained, but it’s not well-known across the marketplace. Education was definitely needed.”

And in a country where French is often required to appear alongside English, helping with the pronunciation wasn’t a big deal.

“It was a fun talking point,” she added. “It is pronounced like ‘heritage’ — with no French accent.”

A search of Great Northwest Wine’s recent archives helps identify other worthy examples of Meritage.

• Dr. Brian Petersen at high-scoring Mosquito Fleet Winery in Belfair, Wash., uses Starboard Meritage for his Merlot-leading blend and Meritage Portside for his Left Bank-inspired red.

• The Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2018 Dionysus Meritage Red Wine earned a Double Platinum last year during Great Northwest Wine’s 23rd annual Platinum Awards.

• Dan Brink at Pomeroy Cellars also won a Platinum for the 2018 Michelle’s Meritage, which featured acclaimed DuBrul Vineyard and helps support the Cancer Can’t Foundation.

• In Oregon, the group’s website includes Iris Vineyards near Eugene, Troon Vineyard in Grants Pass and winemaker Linda Donovan’s eponymous brand in Medford.

The fee to use the term is $1 per case of wine branded as Meritage, and the annual payment is capped at $500 per vintage. In British Columbia, wineries can pay their Meritage Alliance fees directly through Wine Growers BC. Honourable folks, those Canadians.

So for those who do use Meritage on the label, please learn the history, understand the definition and pay your way. Those who do it properly are helping the consumer to navigate the sea of red and white blends.

Eric Degerman is the president, CEO and co-founder of Great Northwest Wine LLC. He can be reached at eric@GreatNorthwestWine.com.

It’s been a long, strange trip with Viognier for me

Ihad become a real fan of all the Rhône varieties that had been produced in Washington, so my dislike of Viognier was confusing. For sure, I had tasted delicious examples of the wine. While judging in Dallas one year, I adored a Texas version of Viognier.

I thought it strange that I had this love/ hate relationship with a variety that seemed to garner so much adoration from the public — including my wife. But I had seen stranger things when it came to vinifera proclivities. There was the judge who couldnʼt stand the taste of Malbec, a noble Bordeaux variety I tend to venerate. Another judge thought Oregon couldnʼt produce good Pinot Noir. And then there was the one who didnʼt care for Riesling, the greatest and most versatile grape on Earth. (I simply adore Riesling in all its forms and would be hard pressed respecting anyone who disagrees. Saying you donʼt like Riesling is tantamount to launching a holy war).

As I further explored my apparent dislike for Viognier, I found some common themes. First of all, it lacks acidity, giving it little natural backbone or much of anything to prop up its naturally floral and citrus flavors. To me, it ends up tasting kind of soapy.

In France as well as in the Northwest, winemakers will co-ferment Syrah with a bit of Viognier. Remarkably, it gives the red wine some volume as well as a bit of complexity in the finish. I can usually pick this out in a blind judging, but I will say that approach earns a few, but not many, points.

Viognier, it turns out, puts me in a bad mood.

Back when I was writing for The Seattle Times, my first editor would go on and on about how much she loved Viognier. I liked the gig, so I just bit my lip and kept my mouth shut for once.

It turns out to be a tricky grape in the vineyard as well as on the table. Thereʼs a short harvest window for Viognier. Pick a little early and it produces a wine with bitter notes on the flavors. Pick a bit too late, you can end up with a wine that has a lot of oiliness on the palate.

I’ve enjoyed some late-harvest and even ice wine examples of Viognier from Oregon, so I thought maybe here was where the grape would shine.

I learned that when I expressed my opinions to other judges, they tended to agree with me, professing that the world of wine was filled with too many other interesting wines to bother spending much time or effort on Viognier.

That said, every grape variety has its fans. I, for example, adore Tannat, but I may be alone in that perspective. Some wineries make wines that I believe are so good, I would drive six hours out of my way and cross international borders to buy a case. I also would drive to the coast to eat at my favorite restaurant, which sadly, is now closed. I don’t much care if you agree with my adventurous attitude. Feelings can be irrational, and that applies double for wine.

But I thought it my professional duty to give Viognier every opportunity to change my mind. To further educate my palate, I tried examples from the grape’s historical home in Condrieu. I even acquired some bottles from the Paso Robles region of California, an area noted for its superb Rhône varietals.

Alas, I found those wines lacking as well,

so I consigned myself to being an advocate for Riesling in all of its glorious forms. When I went to a judging, I was honest with the organizers about my dislike for Viognier as a variety. They gave those wines to other judges to score. Everyone was happy.

Then a strange thing happened. While judging one year in Wenatchee, we awarded a Viognier from Jones of Washington the trophy for Best in Show. I was sort of horrified, so I went back and tasted the wine several times. It was delicious, balanced and worthy of our praise.

I had to understand the secrets of this particular wine to better understand why it earned my high praise. I tracked down the winemaker, Victor Palencia. He agreed that Viognier can be a tricky grape to grow and even a harder wine to make. His secret, it turns out, was the vineyard location, where so many great wines begin. For Viognier, he gets his grapes from Washingtonʼs Wahluke Slope, an especially warm, dry region in the middle of the state. This allows him to pick his grapes a little early to retain acidity and flavor.

It turns out the oiliness I had encountered in other Viogniers came from grapes with a bit of rot. Victor also does a bit of lees aging to give the wine more body.

It started to make sense that I would like that one from the arid plains of Texas.

Now Iʼll be on the lookout for hot-climate Viogniers to test these findings. Maybe there is a future with me for the grape.

Andy Perdue is a third generation Pacific Northwest journalist. He was the founding editor of Wine Press Northwest and a former wine columnist for The Seattle Times. He lives in the heart of Washington wine country with his wife, teenager and a menagerie of animals.

Eric Degerman is the president, CEO and co-founder of Great Northwest Wine LLC. He can be reached at eric@GreatNorthwestWine.com.

“

I thought it strange that I had this love/hate relationship with a variety that seemed to garner so much adoration from the public — including my wife.ˮ

RICHARD DUVAL IMAGES

Love in the afternoon at first sip

The warmth of a grandmotherly California woman and the allure of the Wente family’s wines tasted during one afternoon were all it took to turn me toward a life of chasing after great wines.

Since that day — now roughly 50 years ago — when my brother Greg and I tasted through the Wente family’s wines under her tutelage, I’ve been in love with good wine.

Wente was our destination because the Livermore Valley winery was just a short drive from my brother’s house in Dublin.

We didn’t know that Wente Vineyards had been founded by Carl H. Wente, a German immigrant, in 1883, nor that Wente had learned to make wine from Charles Krug and had sent his son Ernest to UC Davis. Nor that Ernest was responsible for the famous Wente clone of Chardonnay that makes up an estimated 75% of the Chardonnay grown in California and a fair share of Northwest Chardonnays as well.

After all, it was the mid-1970s, well before wine tourism drew crowds to California, an era when much of California’s wine still was sold in screw-cap gallon jugs of three kinds — red, white and rosé. And at the time, I hadn’t even encountered any wines from the Northwest’s fledgling wineries. I was still living in Montana, my native state.

My brother expected it would be a laid-back weekday afternoon, so we were a bit surprised that Wente was rather busy.

Unfazed, the man who greeted us asked if we would mind waiting a few moments while he arranged for someone to manage a vacant tasting station. We had hardly sat down when an elderly woman bustled into the room, climbed onto a stool and asked us, “Now, what kinds of wine do you boys like?”

My brother, by then several years transplanted to California, mentioned he liked big red wines. As more of a neophyte, I asked to start with something white.

She just smiled, said, “Well, let’s start with whites and go from there,” She started us off with a white blend that was slightly sweet as I recall. Next were an oaked Chardonnay — no doubt Wente clone — then a slightly sweet Riesling and perhaps another white or two.

Then, we dived into an array of reds, includ-

ing Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and I believe Syrah, winding up with a memorable hefty Petite Sirah. I still remember it had hefty tannins and a peppery taste at the end.

I had no idea there were so many red varieties — and Wente offered at least six or seven. Their appeal across the board amazed me. With each wine, we got a thorough explanation of what we were tasting and learned a little of each wine’s aromas and flavors.

Wente to find out a bit more about who might have served us that day.

In a gracious e-mail back, Phil Wente, a fourth-generation family winegrower, suggested it likely was one of two people: His mother, Jean, who would have been about 48 then; or more likely Adele Kruger, who worked at Wente for 40+ years, starting in 1933. He said that she may have been given the honorific “Grandma” by the tasting room staff. He noted his grandmother and great aunt had both passed away by then.

“Adele served in many positions … through her career from cellar work, supervising bottling to hospitality and was a very warm and engaging woman with a treasure of knowledge on Wente wines over the post Prohibition era.

“My mother, who is 97 now and the last surviving member of the third generation, was a dynamic part of the winery, joining the family in 1949 when the winery was very small, helping to mentor and guide the fourth and fifth generations to where they are today.”

Like Phil Wente, I think it must have been Adele. Whoever it was, she was something.

Wine Words: Charmat

For the first time, I began to understand why wines were more than a tasty liquid carrying alcohol that could deliver a pleasant buzz. The wine created both an enjoyment on its own, and, I subsequently learned, when paired which with food, could improve the flavors of both.

At the tasting’s end, we were sold, literally and figuratively. My brother, with a high-paying San Francisco job at the Southern Pacific Railway, bought three cases, and I stretched my budget to purchase two, filling the capacious trunk of Greg’s Chrysler.

As we paid our bills, the woman who had spent such a rewarding two hours with us disappeared into a back room, as the brief rush appeared over.

“Who was the delightful woman who conducted our tasting?” I asked.

“That? That was Grandma Wente,” replied the cashier. “She’s something, isn’t she?”

She was indeed something. My brother and I often have marveled about our great luck that afternoon. And we’re both still drinking wine, at least some of it likely Wente clone Chardonnay.

As a postcript, I reached out to the folks at

Once again, we’re off to France, where adventures in mispronunciation begin. Charmat, luckily, sounds just like it looks. More properly, it’s the Charmat method, invented in 1907 by Eugène Charmat, who was seeking a less expensive way to make sparkling wine than the labor-intensive methode Champenoise, which requires special techniques, extra labor and no small amount of extra time for riddling, disgorging, etc.

Charmat’s invention injects carbon dioxide gas into a pressurized tank of finished wine until the wine absorbs enough gas bubbles to produce a pleasing mousse. His innovation cuts costs by saving months of labor and expense.

It’s often criticized because it may not produce the yeasty, toasty aromas of Champenoise, and its bubbles seem shorter lived. I recently tried a lively Charmat method Albariño from Victor Palencia of Palencia Wine Co. in Tri-Cities that held its mousse with most Champenoise bubblies. Its $28 price reflected the cost savings and it sold out within a month.

Eric Degerman is the president, CEO and co-founder of Great Northwest Wine LLC. He can be reached at eric@GreatNorthwestWine.com.

Ernest was responsible for the famous Wente clone of Chardonnay that makes up an estimated 75% of the Chardonnay grown in California and a fair share of Northwest Chardonnays as well.ˮ

Ken Robertson, associate editor and columnist for Great Northwest Wine magazine, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

Le Cadeau Vineyard showcases 19 clones on Oregon’s Parrett Mountain

NEWBERG, Ore. — Tom and Deb Mortimer have been entrenched atop Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains since 1997 when they discovered 28 acres of previously uncultivated land on Parrett Mountain.

They preserved much of the original timber while clearing 21 acres during the next two years, creating Le Cadeau Vineyard. The winery name, which translates to “the gift” in French, fit perfectly, because the Mortimers viewed this extraordinary site not far from Newberg and overlooking the Willamette River as a priceless gift.

Of those initial plantings — 6 acres of Pinot Noir — went into the rocky, volcanic cobble soil in 1999. Now they have 17 acres under vine in the Chehalem Mountains American Viticultural Area spread across a south slope with an east/west roll. Elevation ranges from 610 feet to 725 feet. The vineyard is sustainably farmed and LIVE certified, yet they incorporate a number of Biodynamic practices. There are multiple microclimates within Le Cadeau Vineyard, along with variations in soil including Jory, Nekia and Witzel. The most dominant is Witzel — well-drained, cobble, broken basalt soil.

The Le Cadeau team produces 1,300 cases, primarily reserve-style Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wine under their Le Cadeau tier, which they unveiled in 2003. Lofty scores soon followed. Famed critic James Suckling recently scored their 2019 Diversité Pinot Noir 96 points and their 2018 Chardonnay 94 points.

“We follow the

European model where the site is everything,” Mortimer says.

Credit for the winemaking is spread between Jim Sanders and Steve Ryan. Sanders worked for Michael Etzel at iconic Beaux Frères prior to joining Le Cadeau in 2006. Ryan came on board a year later having spent years in Sonoma County as head winemaker at Martinelli Winery in the noteworthy Russian River Valley, and worked at nearby sparkling wine house Rack and Riddle in Healdsburg, among other properties in northern California.

Along the way, success and growth from the Mortimer plantings led to a sister label, Joleté and Aubichon Cellars. Production for Joleté can reach 2,000 cases and includes Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from vines in Oregon and Washington.

In addition to Ryan, Sanders and Burgundy-based consultant Pierre Millemann, contributors to the Le Cadeau story include vineyard manager José López and assistant general manager Brian Matta — a certified sommelier who manages the stylish Dundee tasting room.

Mortimer, referred to as “The Grape Clone Man,” admits he’s fascinated with the research and what he shares is remarkable. The six varieties of rootstocks and 19 clones at Le Cadeau Vineyard combine to reach deep into his rocky Chehalem soils. Clones include virtually all of the noteworthy Dijons (113, 114, 115, 667, 777, the real-828 and 943), Pommard, Swiss clones Wädenswil and Mariafeld, Swan, Hanzell, Mt. Eden, multiple versions of Calera and Vosne Romanée 122. Mortimer was among the first to plant VR 122 in Oregon, back in 2012.

“Originally, Calera was not a clone, but a selection from a high-profile vineyard in Burgundy that contained multiple clones,” Tom says. “We also have an undefined clone that my vineyard manager, José, discovered. Not surprisingly, I call that one the José Clone.”

They also produce a small amount of Chardonnay, primarily from heritage clones — Old Wente 72, Mt. Eden 28, Larry Hyde clones 112 and 113, Musqué 809 and Dijon 76.

Wines showcase the rocky soils, the aspect of the slope along Parrett Mountain and, clonal selection. Each bottling expresses nuances of the vintage and vineyard.

THE LE CADEAU INCLUDE:

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2017 Blanc de Noir, $60: This expressive Brut-style bubbly, made by Ryan with 100% Pinot Noir clones Mariafeld,

Pommard and Dijon, was en tirage more than 4.5 years, and finished at dosage with 2019 Le Cadeau Estate Chardonnay. Tantalizing the palate are layers of brioche, Sweetheart cherries, crisp Granny Smith apples and lemon citrus accents. Hints of exotic spice are supported by bright acidity.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Estate Chardonnay, $45: Aromas of lemon-splashed apples lead the way as the glass approaches the nose. Crafted from heritage clones and Dijon 76 clone fruit, this Chardonnay by Sanders is deeply flavored and elegant. It’s well-balanced as Honeycrisp apple, Meyer lemon, fresh Bartlett pear, a touch of minerality and mostly neutral French oak sashay seamlessly across the palate to a lingering finish.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Côte Est Pinot Noir, $60: Crafted from 115 and 667 Dijon clone fruit planted on a cooler portion of the vineyard, this gem overseen by Ryan is brilliant with its spiced cherry/berry compote aroma. The entry unveils herb-dusted cherry sauce notes, and a bright beam of acidity. Streamlined and zesty through the well-defined Montmorency cherry, licorice and minerally-tinged palate.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Rocheux Pinot Noir, $60: From the Western slope of Le Cadeau Vineyard comes this velvety-textured Pommard/ Dijon 777 Pinot Noir that exudes both power and gracefulness from Sanders. Boldly aromatic and supple on the palate, with scents and flavors of cherry-cola, anise, black tea, fresh raspberries, well-placed oak nuances, and Herbes de Provence entwining with earthiness and a thread of minerality.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2018 Merci Pinot Noir, $80: This complex, finely balanced Pinot Noir, again by Sanders, is crafted from estate plantings of heirloom (heritage) clones of Pinot Noir — clippings from Mt. Eden, Calera, Swan, Hanzell and Vosne-Romanée. Expressive scents of a floral bouquet are followed by a kaleidoscope of blackberry, dewberry and blueberry flavors, joining black cherry, subtle oak spice, savoriness, minerality and accents of cola nut. The finish lasts long after the final sip.

The Le Cadeau Vineyard tasting room is along Highway 99 West in Dundee. Parking is easy in the lot shared with The Dundee Hotel and several other satellite tasting rooms. Go to LeCadeauVineyard.com.

Ellen Landis is a certified sommelier, journalist and wine judge based in St.Petersburg, Florida.

ELLEN LANDIS

Even Johansen turns dream into Sylvi Wines, Dalset label

Even Johansen’s road to the Washington wine industry began in Scandinavia, was inspired by South America and led him to Sylvi Wines. His father’s work with a Seattle-based fishing company meant trips to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, and that meant Sverre Johansen would return home with high-quality wines, including Tannat and Malbec, from small producers.

In 2010, Even explored commercial aviation at Big Bend Community College in Moses Lake, Wash., and he recalls the incredible feeling of flying with instructors and fellow students. After a year, he focused on business management.

His first wine tour of Walla Walla with his parents proved sensational. Shortly after, he talked his father into allowing him to plant 100 vines of Merlot and another 100 of Cabernet Sauvignon on the family property in Moses Lake. The following year, Sverre and his wife Gina went bigger — 500 vines of Tannat. By the fall 2012, Even entered Walla Walla Community College’s acclaimed Institute for Enology and Viticulture.

Growing up among the fjords of Norway and Puget Sound, Even was accustomed to forests. Living in Eastern Washington was an adjustment, but Walla Walla was charming from the start, and he quickly made friends within the local gay community. With this group, he felt welcomed and connected. Outside of the group, however, he worried how a gay man might be treated in Walla Walla. He was selective of who he came out to, admitting that he typically hid his “gayness” at work and school.

As a winemaking student, his first harvest was at Bergevin Lane, which led to a job at Tertulia Cellars, where he worked in the cellar and the tasting room. There was acceptance and friendships. He remains grateful for the time winemaker Ryan Raber and sales expert Michelle Aichele spent mentoring him, sharing books, information about the world of wine and anything else. Raber’s standards and talent were inspirational, leading Even to vow to never waste time working on ordinary wine.

That time at Tertulia proved pivotal. The combination of talented mentors who took a genuine interest, plus the sense of belonging, mixed with support from new friendships, gave Even the reassurance that he was on the right track.

A harvest job at Charles Smith Wines/K

Vintners was another positive for Even, who gained experience with aging white wine in oak barrels. A winemaking job with Aquilini for the 2016 and 2017 harvests was a “tremendous learning opportunity” to further his knowledge and experience.

It also pushed Johansen to launch Sylvi

Even Johansen of Sylvi Wines is a product of Walla Walla Community College’s renowned winemaking program and has worked for some of the West Coast’s best-known producers.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SYLVI WINES

Wines, which he began with single barrels of two distinctly different grapes — Syrah and Grüner Veltliner. His fascination with the obscure Austrian white variety began in 2015 with a bottle that immediately demanded his attention.

“I love a zesty, fresh Grüner,” Even says, “but I wondered, ‘What could barrel-aging do for Grüner?’ ”

His debut for Sylvi Wines, with labels featuring his own paintings, came with a 2017 Syrah from famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain and a 2018 Grüner Veltliner from nearby Inland Desert Vineyard.

Meanwhile, back in Moses Lake, Sverre and Gina decided after several years of hobby winemaking they would get their license and start production commercially for their Cascade Cellars. Production began in 2016, but the farming proved troublesome. Tannat is a challenge to grow, and the 2018 and 2019 vintages presented them with grapes high in acid, resulting in gritty/austere wines. Smoky characteristics also were prevalent in the 2020 vintage.

Fortunately, the 2021 vintage brought improved quality, and those wines will be bottled soon. The 2018 and 2019 vintages need more aging to soften and become ready for release — reminiscent of the approach in Uruguay.

After years of dreaming of going to Napa to work a harvest and learn new winemaking perspectives, Even landed an intern position at internationally famous Screaming Eagle.

“It was the most amazing winery,” he says, “not just the history and the wine, but the people were knowledgeable and down to earth.”

His fond memories include a culture of support, kindness and incredible staff meals made from the on-premise garden.

Alas, Sverre’s health declined rapidly. Even left harvest early to return home as his father entered hospice. While the waiting list at Screaming Eagle is famously long, the “family comes first” atmosphere at the Oakville icon meant Even would depart on good terms. He says working at Screaming Eagle reminded him of Tertulia, where a sense of family, friendship and camaraderie created in the cellar by Raber was critical.

“You must put yourself out there and go for it,” Even says. “If you dream it, you can make it happen. Build yourself a community — find the people who are your safety net.”

Sverre lost his battle with cancer earlier this year. Cascade Cellars has closed temporarily, but Gina intends to resume operations in Moses Lake. This summer brings the launch of Johansen’s premium brand, Dalset — a nod to the family farm in Norway. There will be a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2017 Syrah, each featuring Ciel du Cheval. Both were unveiled at

the second annual Queer Wine Fest in Oregon’s acclaimed Dundee Hills.

Recently, Johansen joined the team of friends Seth and Audrey Kitzke, becoming the assistant winemaker for the couple’s UpsideDown Wines brand, the family’s Kitzke Cellars label and the limited-production The Devil Is A Liar, a project dedicated to fruit from exclusive WeatherEye Vineyard atop Red Mountain.

There will be plenty of time to turn Malbec and Tannat from Johansen’s dreams into

bottles.

Sylvi Wines does not operate a tasting room at this time. For more information, contact SylviWines.com or (206) 310-3228.

April Reddout is a professional wine judge and hospitality consultant who was then the guest services manager for Col Solare on Red Mountain. She can be reached at ReddoutWine.com.

British Columbia prepares for widespread replanting

By Eric Degerman

The winter kill that swept through the British Columbia wine industry late in 2022 will result in an estimated crop loss of 54% for the 2023 harvest and prompt the replanting of as much as 29% of the province’s vineyards, according to Wine Growers British Columbia.

Miles Prodan, the group’s president and CEO since 2010, sent an update to membership that framed the devastating findings within the Vintage 2023 Damage Report. Estimated costs from the December 2022 damage could reach $145 million, according to the report compiled by Cascadia Strategy Consulting Partners Ltd., in Vancouver, which gathered information from Wine Growers British Columbia members.

The blast of bitter-cold weather on Dec. 22 saw the temperature in the Okanagan Lake city of Kelowna dip to a record of minus 22 Fahrenheit (minus 30 Celsius). That immediately worried winegrowers throughout the province, but fears weren’t realized until bud break for the 2023 vintage.

“Unfortunately, results from our recent stakeholder survey following bud break confirm the earlier projections with the following estimated agricultural impacts,” Prodan wrote.

• 54% reduction in grape and wine production for the 2023 vintage.

• 45% of total planted acreage suffering long-term damage.

• 29% of total planted acreage needing to be replaced.

Nearly everyone responding to the Wine Growers British Columbia survey estimated a crop loss of at least 10% for the 2023 harvest.

Overall, the survey represented 59% of the industry’s production and spanned 12 growing regions. The 330 wineries in the province are fed by 11,086 acres of vineyards. Research indicates the industry contributes $3.75 billion annually to the British Columbia economy and is linked to jobs for 14,272 people.

Estimated economic impacts from the damage include a loss of $133 million in revenue for vineyards and wineries, $100 million in tax revenues on the sale of 100% British Columbia wine and the loss of 20% of the jobs among winery and vineyard workers. That would be about 380 positions.

Fortunately, the late-to-mature “Hail Mary” 2022 vintage that the Pacific Northwest experienced was abundant and acclaimed after a string of three harvests that were deemed as “short” by British Columbia standards.

Merlot is the most widely grown variety in British Columbia, with about 8,500 tons harvested during an average year. However, the estimated crop loss for that grape from the 2023 vintage is 66%. Those who planted Syrah are projecting a loss of 72%.

Not surprisingly, Riesling was the mainstream variety that best withstood the winter damage as growers are expecting harvested tons to be off only 41%. For Gewürztraminer, it’s projected to be reduced by 49%. Other notables include Chardonnay (47%), Pinot Gris (50%) and Sauvignon Blanc (52%).

The province’s biggest grape growing region is near the town of Oliver and features the Black Sage Bench. Tonnage there — at least for the 2023 vintage — is projected to be down 61% relative to a typical year. For those growers near the southern end of Okanagan Lake, including the Naramata Bench, the figure is a less crippling 29%.

However, in the Similkameen Valley, the devastation is forecast to reach 88%. And the young Lillooet wine region west of Kamloops appears to be a total loss.

In recent years, there has been a glut of grapes and wine, particularly among some of

Washington state’s largest growers and producers. Now comes the plight of British Columbia winemakers. It is expected that imports from Washington, Oregon and beyond the Pacific Northwest could help to slake the thirst of Canadian wine consumers.

Cascadia Partners brought up the topic of a temporary allowance of non-BC wine for landbased wineries. There are reasons for the mixed opinions.

“Only 45% of respondents support such an allowance, with many citing fears of consumer confusion and difficulty sourcing inputs relative to large national wineries,” according to the report. “As a result, establishing supports to help connect relatively smaller wineries with non-BC grapegrowers may be an important equitable consideration to ensure the program is accessible to wineries of all sizes.”

Such a move would likely help some wineries maintain some shelf space and boost bottle inventories. Provincial government coffers would benefit from the sales of wines that do not fall within the British Columbia Vintners Quality Alliance guidelines.

“While government tax revenues attributable to 100% BC wine products will decrease, total government tax revenues will likely increase due to consumer substitution to non-BC products, which are taxed at a higher rate than BC products,” according to the report.

Vineyards throughout British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, even those near Okanagan Lake, suffered widespread damage during record-low temperatures on Dec. 22, 2022.

PHOTO BY LIONEL TRUDEL / COURTESY OF WINE GROWERS BRITISH COLUMBIA

Walla Walla Wine tours Treasure Valley

By Jim Thomssen

BOISE, Idaho — Did it make sense to bring Walla Walla wines to Boise for a day?

From both sides of the border, the answer is yes.

Just a four-hour drive from Idaho’s state capital, and even less from the Moscow-Lewiston area, the Walla Walla Valley is one of the first places Gem State wine fans gravitate to when they seek out wine experiences.

With more than 120 wineries and tasting rooms to visit, vineyards growing more than 50 varieties and a well-developed hospitality sector, it makes sense as a “next stop” on the journey of wine discovery. Walla Walla also has been voted the Best Wine Region the past three years by USA Today.

Hoping to increase the cross-pollination between the two wine regions, the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance expanded its annual “Walla Walla Wine on Tour” series to include Boise this year.

While Seattle and Portland have been on their itinerary since 2012, the move to Idaho is a big step. The Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance is a member-driven, nonprofit charged with building the Walla Walla brand, similar to the Idaho Wine Commission’s mission. Walla Walla’s “Wine on Tour” events are designed to offer something new and distinctly “Walla Walla” to connoisseurs, travelers and fans — current and future — of Walla Walla wines.

More than 35 wineries were represented to the trade, media and public this spring at The Grove Hotel ballroom in Boise. There was some tasting; however much of the focus was on business during the trade and media session.

Yet it was more than just a marketing opportunity that prompted the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance membership to add Boise to the schedule.

Second-generation grower Jared Funk of Saviah Cellars noted that about 10% of his family’s wine club members are from Idaho. And about 20% of those folks make the trip to the Saviah Cellars tasting room just across the Oregon/Washington border to pick up their allotments. He says Idaho’s emergence as a regional player in the industry drives its residents to explore other wine regions. And Walla Walla’s proximity, reputation and agricultural history help to bring travelers to that corner of Washington and Oregon.

“We share a strong cultural connective tissue and farming backgrounds,” says Brian Rudin, winemaker at Canvasback — part of California’s famed Duckhorn portfolio of wines.

And there is a growing synergy between the two regions. Together, they can achieve better economies of scale when it comes to custom-crush facilities, bottling technology and obtaining the infrastructure required to craft world-class wines. A look at the back labels of some Idaho wines reveals that a number of Idaho winemakers use enology services in the Walla Walla Valley, so it appears to make economic sense.

Recently, Tim Donahue of Horse Thief Wine Consulting in Walla Walla began sharing his expertise with member wineries of the Idaho Wine Commission. He spent a decade as the lead instructor for Walla Walla Community College’s vaunted winemaking program.

Rudin points out that it doesn’t hurt that you can still visit with the winemakers in their tasting rooms in both places, unlike many regions in the western U.S.

Co-winemaker/co-owner Chad Johnson sees the similar geology and climate as ties that bind the regions together as well. He also pointed to the long-standing cooperation between Washington grape growers and Idaho winemakers.

“With a continued focus on vineyards and vine age, there isn’t any reason why Idaho wines shouldn’t continue to make great improvement,” Johnson says.

Other wineries were taking care of business before and after the tour stop, too. Fiona Mak of rosé-centric SMAK Wines wants Boise’s Asian-inspired restaurants to take on her wines, which pair exceptionally well with spicy flavors.

There’s no debate that the Walla Walla Valley is the premier American Viticultural Area nearest to Boise, and that makes it easy for “wine explorers” from Idaho to trek over the Blue Mountains to visit, taste and learn.

At the same time, wine lovers in Washington and Oregon should consider spreading their wings to visit the three high-desert AVAs in Idaho and add some gems to their cellars. Thanks in large part to talented Idaho winemakers, the wines will be similar in quality, yet the terroir will create subtle differences worthy of discovering. Go to WallaWallaWines. com and IdahoWines.org for more resources planning your next visit.

Retired banker Jim Thomssen now is known as The Idaho Wine Ambassador. The Minnesota native earned a business degree at the University of Puget Sound with the help of professor/wine economist Mike Veseth prior to moving to the Snake River Valley in 1994.

Brian Rudin, a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College winemaking program, heads up Canvasback in Washington for Napa’s Duckhorn Vineyards. RICHARD

Van Wingerden family grows beyond nursery empire into Van Vino Vineyard

By Dan Radil

BLAINE, Wash. — The roots for Van Vino Vineyard reach back to 1988 when Dave Van Wingerden and his wife Annemiek bought 80 acres just a mile south of the Canadian border.

And with a family history rich in growing outdoor and greenhouse flowers, the couple used their land to launch a wholesale plant nursery — Pacific Growers.

Pacific Growers has expanded into a large, family-operated enterprise that includes five of the couple’s six children. It supplies bedding and potted plants to West Coast retailers such as Fred Meyer.

Now, it’s another family member — son-inlaw Zach Deloof — using his skills as a winemaker, estate grapes and those grown by some well-known relatives to turn Van Vino Vineyard into one of the most fascinating young wineries in the Pacific Northwest.

“It was always Dave’s dream to grow grapes, but it was primarily just as a hobby, to make wine for friends, family and customers,” Deloof says.

As a commercial brand, Van Vino began just three years ago. The winery is a mile south of the Canadian border, tucked away in Washington state’s northwest corner.

Van Wingerden had planted 4 acres of wine grapes in 2014, settling on eight varieties recommended by Cloud Mountain Farm, a nursery in nearby Everson. The vineyard name — Van Vino — is clever and catchy, a combination of the Dutch word van, meaning from, and the Italian word for wine. It also serves as a nod to Dave Van Wingerden’s parents. His father was from the Netherlands. His mother was born in Italy.

But it’s been Deloof, 29, who has brought the bottles of Van Vino Vineyards to market, joining the family in 2016 by marrying Van Wingerden’s daughter, Barb.

Born in Chilliwack, British Columbia, Deloof had worked for a meat distribution company early on.

“That wasn’t really my passion,” he says with a laugh.

He found his calling not long after Dave Van Wingerden offered him a position at Pacific Growers, which would evolve into making wine from estate grapes.

“I’ve always liked farming and growing,” said Deloof, “but I had zero background in wine.”

Prior to Deloof taking over as winemaker, Van Wingerden enlisted the help of Whatcom County resident Brad Stephens, a self-taught hobby winemaker who purchased grapes from Kiona Vineyards. Stephens has proved to be a mentor for Deloof.

“I worked with Brad for about two years and something just clicked,” Deloof recalls. “Every year, I was learning more and doing a lot of research. Winemaking took the farming to a new level, and it’s exciting and rewarding to taste what you’ve made.”

Van Vino Vineyard took root along a gently sloping hillside with a southern exposure and near some of Pacific Growers’ greenhouses. The family planted white varieties Siegerrebe, Madeleine Angevine, Grüner Veltliner and, surprisingly, Sauvignon Blanc. Red grapes include Pinot Noir clones 777 and 115, the Pinot Noir mutation Précoce and two varieties seldom seen in the Pacific Northwest — Zweigelt and Regent.

As one might expect, Western Washington’s cooler, shorter growing season presents challenges for growers, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc and Grüner Veltliner.

Regent, a German hybrid, yields clusters of berries that separate beautifully to reduce the chance of mold. However, the thick-skinned, inky grapes produce wines that can lack complexity.

Van Vino also produces several wines from two Eastern Washington sources. Stephen’s past experience with Kiona Vineyards has led to a continuing relationship with the Red Mountain-based winery, and Deloof uses their vineyards for his Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménѐre, Malbec, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Riesling.

He’s also producing what many consider a Kiona specialty, Lemberger, and his current release displays beautiful flavors of candied cherry, sweet tobacco, and leather with a long, silky finish.

Van Vino’s source for its Grenache comes from another Dutch family connection that has proven to be invaluable: Bill and Andy Den Hoed. The two Yakima Valley grape growers are related to Dave Van Wingerden through his sister-in-law, a former Den Hoed.

The 2021 Cabernet Franc ($30) has proved to be one of Deloof’s favorites, with stunning violet aromatics, flavors of rich red cherry, blackberry and espresso, and a velvety finish that’s a mile long. His work with clone 777 Pinot Noir grown on the estate quickly earned a reputation for quality and moderate pricing — $28.

Aside from that Cab Franc and a Sangiovese from Red Mountain ($32), the Van Vino wines are sold for less than $30. That includes the three gold medal winners crafted by Deloof at the 2023 Seattle Wine Awards — the 2021 Merlot, the 2021 Estate Pinot Noir and 2021 Estate Madeleine Angevine.

“We’re a new winery, and we didn’t want to overprice,” Deloof says. “We want to earn name recognition and awards first before we start charging $40 or $50 a bottle.”

Van Vino Vineyard

9029 Markworth Road

Blaine, WA 98230

VanVinoVineyard.com

(360) 920-1656

• Tastings are available by appointment only.

Dan Radil is a freelance writer based in Bellingham. His site is DanTheWineGuy.com, and he is president of the Bellingham Northwest Wine Competition.

Zach Deloof works with grapes grown nearby to produce Siegerrebe and Pinot Noir for his family’s Van Vino project in Blaine, Wash.

PHOTO BY DAN RADIL

A taste of L’Ecoleʼs first 40 years

By Eric Degerman

As L’Ecole N° 41 Winery commemorates its 40th anniversary, owner Marty Clubb and winemaker Marcus Rafanelli invited Great Northwest Wine to taste the winery’s history via select landmark wines that proved key to the winery’s success. Each section features comments by Clubb and Rafanelli on the significance of the wine, some notes for the truly wine nerdy and ends with a tasting evaluation by GNW editor Eric Degerman. Editor’s note: Prices listed are when the wine was released.

L’Ecole N° 41 Winery 1983 Merlot, Washington, $15

Four decades ago, Maury Balcom’s vineyard north of Pasco, Wash., stood as one of the Northwest’s top sites for Merlot and an early favorite of L’Ecole.

The 1983 Merlot bottling reportedly

received the only gold medal awarded at the Enological Society of the Pacific Northwest judging. That panel featured two of the wine world’s foremost figures — Italian vintner Angelo Gaja and Napa Valley’s Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

Owners Baker and Jean Ferguson (who also was L’Ecole’s first winemaker) wisely hired one of Washington state’s most experienced winemakers to lend some expertise.

MC: “Kay Simon had left Ste. Michelle earlier that year. She was the consulting winemaker in that first year to LʼEcole — so two women winemakers collaborated on our first vintage.

“Jean and Baker intentionally were going for structure behind the Merlot. They did extended maceration and probably made the wines a little tight when they were young because they wanted the wines to age. In not

too much time, they really popped.”

MR: “I think this wine is still telling its story. I liken old wines to textbooks. If you want to know history, you need to try these benchmark wines, and this is one. Just like the ’88 Columbia Winery Red Willow (Vineyard) Syrah — the first Syrah from Washington. Thatʼs the only wine thatʼs ever made me cry.ˮ

MC: “After Baker passed away, we celebrated him at our house with friends, and we thought, ‘We need to serve the ʼ83 Merlot.’ That was in 2005, and I was so surprised with how well the wine was showing at that point. Now we’re enjoying again 18 years later.

“Merlot was two-thirds of our production throughout the Eighties, and it remained our leading wine and variety through the Nineties. Merlot was on the cover of Wine Spectator and people were trying to project, ‘What variety will Washington state be known for?’ We all thought it was going to be Merlot.”

Nerd notes: Harvest was Oct. 8 at 24 Brix, with a pH of 3.45 and total acidity of 9.0 grams per liter — a level of TA often seen in whites. L’Ecole bottled 600 cases from a barrel program of 100% new French oak, which Clubb points out was quite common then. The alcohol by volume was 14.4%. There’s no reference to sulfites on the bottle, and the Columbia Valley American Viticultural Area wasn’t established until 1984.

ED: There’s a remarkable Bing cherry note that threads through many of the modern-day L’Ecole reds, and it’s quite alive in this Merlot that’s still got some bones. The level of “bottle bouquet” — dried fruit and saddle leather — isn’t as prevalent as one would expect. Its structure is dynamic and refreshing rather than tired or tannic.

1993 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $28

A straightforward Right Bank-Bordeaux blend of Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), this marked the first vintage of Apogee — a proprietary name credited to Baker Ferguson. This cast an early spotlight on Norm McKibben’s vision and flashed his background as an engineer with his technological innovations for viticulture.

MC: “That same year we made a Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot. For us, that was important because we now had fruit in Walla Walla. It put us on the pathway of developing vineyards in Walla Walla.”

The ’93 vintage proved to be a cool

Marcus Rafanelli, left, first worked at L’Ecole N° 41 for owner Marty Clubb in 2007 as a harvest intern. He returned as winemaker before the start of the 2020 vintage.

vintage, and the first terroir-driven red blend has outlived the projections on the tech sheet, which noted that it should continue to age well through 2005.

MR: “Let’s put a ‘2’ in there over the second zero.”

MC: “Wait a minute — I’ve got an eraser here.”

MC: “Sometimes the Pepper Bridge wines in their youth can be slightly austere and closed. When we’re barrel tasting, we’d always show Seven Hills because it has the more elegant and perfumy approach. Once it was in the bottle, the Pepper Bridge wines would start to build.”

MR: “The acidity helps carry the wine across the palate, and it hits the sides of the palate, which is where midpalate on older wines can be lacking. Itʼs nice to have that initial attack that carries through. And again, it has that beautiful finish.”

Nerd notes: The Merlot came off Oct. 7 at 23.7 Brix with a pH of 3.44. The Cabernet Sauvignon was a month later — Nov. 9 — at only 21.5 Brix and a lofty pH of 3.83. Production was 167 cases, and it was released on July 19, 1995. The finishing chemistry was pH of 3.66 and TA of 6.6 g/L, with listed alcohol by volume of 13.5%. Its barrel

program was 70% French/30% American oak. The barrels were racked four times and bottled without being fined or filtered.

ED: I taste a depth to the cherry throughout, and Pepper Bridge is a cooler, late-ripening site influenced by the afternoon breezes that sail down the Blue Mountain foothills. It’s simply a remarkably delicious red that continues to offer dark Bing cherry and a sense of celery-influenced Old Bay spice.

1995 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $25

This marked the third series of vineyarddesignated wines by L’Ecole, and it represents a 7-acre block of Cabernet Sauvignon adjacent to Seven Hills Vineyard that’s produced many of the Walla Walla Valley’s best Cabs.

L’Ecole didn’t begin bottling a Cab until 1989 — the year Clubb took over management of the winery — and this ’95 was L’Ecole’s first standalone Cab from the Walla Walla Valley.

MC: “Norm McKibben bought Seven Hills in 1992, but the Hendricks family kept that block and renamed it Windrow. This was

the first Walla Walla Cabernet we bottled. We make about 2,000 cases of Walla Walla Valley Cabernet, and it’s sold across the country.

“This has a bit of an herbal note to it. If you leave the grapes hanging long enough, you can burn through pyrazines, and it becomes more sage and spice. We see a lot of that spice/herb note in our Walla Walla Cabs over time.”

MR: “I want the bottle to be 10 times larger. For aged Cabernet from Walla Walla, this is amazing.”

Nerd notes: Crafted from 5.9 tons of grapes that came in at 23 Brix on Oct. 14 with a pH of 3.7 and TA of 6.3. The bottling of 354 cases represents about 14 barrels in an oak program similar to the Apogee, featuring cooperages Seguin Moreau and Tonnellerie Francaise. Much like the Apogee, the wine was racked four times, then bottled without being fined or filtered. This wine was released during the 1997 holiday season, with the alcohol at 13%.

ED: “There’s a bit of seduction here with its persistence and penetration of sweet dark red fruit, Baker’s chocolate and a bit of peach skin in the nose and on the finish. It’s now a bottle that exemplifies why wine lovers build cellars.”

Throughout its 40-year history, L’Ecole N° 41 never has strayed from its old-school approach.

RICHARD DUVAL IMAGES

2002 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Perigee, Walla Walla Valley, $35

The long-lasting charm of the ’95 Windrow Cab made it easy to believe that L’Ecole’s first Left Bank Bordeaux expression from Seven Hills would continue singing 20 years later.

By Person Name

Named for the closest point to the Earth in the moon’s orbit, Clubb’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (37%) and Cabernet Franc was released in December 2004. As a warmer site than Pepper Bridge, this Perigee set the standard of early approachability tasting of earthiness, which Clubb credits to the complex, wind-blown loess soils of Seven Hills.

MR: “It looks like it was a pretty warm year if you were pulling in Cabernet Sauvignon on Sept. 19.”

MC: “That texture from Seven Hills — those pretty, silky and velvety notes — we knew we could easily over-oak this wine. So weʼve always been a bit more measured on our wood with Seven Hills. There’s that cedary note and that black cherry.”

MR: “It carries much of the same characteristics as the ’22 we just blended a couple of weeks ago.”

MC: “A lot of wines that are soft and silky and easy-drinking will fall on their face after about five years. You can fine your wine with egg whites which makes them softer, aromatic and pretty, and easy drinking to get the score, but the wine doesnʼt hold up.”

Nerd notes: History looks upon 2002 as a rather typical vintage without fear of drought conditions. Merlot came in on Sept. 3 at 24.2 Brix. Cab Franc was Sept. 13 at 24.7 Brix, and the Cab Sauvignon on Sept. 19 at 25.1 Brix. The barrel program was 60% new oak for 22 months, and the barrels were racked five times. Production resulted in 1,160 cases of unfined and unfiltered wine.

ED: Within this tasting of history, this was the first bottle to tease out some oak tones, a sign of its time in barrel for 22 months with 60% new wood.

2004 FERGUSON Commemorative Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley

Clubb and his team cherry-picked from four of Washington state’s premier vineyards to create this tribute, released in December 2006 — a few months after Baker Ferguson’s passing (Spouse Jean, the founding winemaker, died in 1998).

In 1983, the Fergusons ranked among the first customers of Klipsun, Bacchus and Dionysus vineyards. Those three plantings form two-thirds of this blend — Cabernet Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot. Weinbau and StoneTree also played roles in this 1,800-case project.

In terms of the vintage, 2004 didn’t suffer as much widespread winter damage as 1996, but it was a major concern. Growers retained more buds than usual on the vines to increase their chances of viability at bud break. Canopy management was more timeconsuming in order to get clusters to the finish line. It turns out they had plenty of time to ripen.

MC: “It was another example of how the industry comes together when there are down years.”

MR: “This is super fresh – a very vibrant wine.”

MC: “It’s the steppingstone for what we would create in Ferguson. Next year, it will be a 20-year-old wine, and it’s got a lot of life left.”

Nerd notes: On average, the Cabernet Sauvignon for this wine was harvested Sept. 27-29 at 25.2 Brix. The Petit Verdot hit 27.3 Brix by Sept. 29. The last grapes in were Cab

Franc on Oct. 4.

ED: The power and grip historically linked to Klipsun is undeniable, yet there’s an abundance of fruit to support those tannins with cherry jam preserves and plum joined by lavender, cedar and sage. The 22 months in 50% new oak are sublimely integrated at this point.

2011 Estate Ferguson Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $60

Many in the Northwest wine industry remember 2011 as the last of the “cool” vintages. Growers sought different paths to offset the chilly La Niña 2010 and 2011 growing seasons. Learned vineyard managers Paul Champoux and Mike Sauer played around with Marquette — a red variety developed at the University of Minnesota as a grape that can withstand colder temperatures.

That backdrop makes it even more remarkable that this wine won Best Bordeaux Blend at the 2014 Decanter World Wine Awards. Soon after the judging, Clubb did know this wine earned at least a gold medal, which explains why Decanter encouraged him to be in London for the awards ceremony.

MC: “I was overwhelmed, nearly crying. It was really stupendous. There were microphones in my face, but all I could think of was to call the winery and let them know — only they had gone online and saw the results. Everybody was celebrating.

“This was the first wine we made from Ferguson, and I’m convinced the judges thought it had to be French. But it was from Walla Walla!”

MR: “I love this wine. It’s 12 years old, but it could have been released yesterday. It’s got the tannin structure of Ferguson — very linear down the midpalate, with nice red fruit all the way through.”

Nerd notes: Harvest for this wine began

Marcus Rafanelli and Marty Clubb talk and taste their way through internationally acclaimed wines for BoozWA

Oct. 13 and ended Oct. 28. There were 845 cases produced after spending 22 months in 50% new barrels, which were racked five times.

ED: The Great Northwest Wine panel evaluated this in 2014, and the barrel notes in Left Bank Bordeauxstyled blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (32%) and Cabernet Franc are now moved into the background, leaving classic notes of dark purple fruit akin to black cherry, black currant and plum. There’s still Marionberry juice, earthiness and those flecks of iron that are thumbprints of Ferguson vines in the fractured basalt.

(The 2013 Estate Ferguson went on to win the International Trophy for the Best New World Bordeaux Blend at the 2016 Six Nations Wine Challenge in Australia.)

2019 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Perigee, Walla Walla Valley, $57

What was the Six Nations judging in Australia is now the Global Fine Wine Challenge, and L’Ecole used this Left Bankinspired entry to win the Bordeaux Blends Trophy in 2022 — the winery’s third major international award in 10 years.

After a year in bottle, it was released in fall 2022. And its 1,010 cases were gone not long after its win Down Under at the judging by several Masters of Wine. Its entry came via Seattle-based writer Sean Sullivan, who nominated 100 wines from the U.S. to compete with those from the other five nations.

MC: “It was a little cooler vintage, so there’s higher natural acidity, but the approachable character of Seven Hills pops in the glass almost immediately. And it’s got all five of the major Bordeaux varieties, so that broadens the palate.”

MR: “The oak character will break down over time. Those toast levels add vanilla, coconut and baking spice — notes that barrel aging can give. It’s important not to overpower the wine, but to build the wine.”

Nerd notes: Cabernet Sauvignon (52%) leads Merlot (19%), Cabernet Franc (17%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Malbec, so the harvest for this blend spanned Sept. 17 through Oct. 18.

ED: It’s stylish with ripe bramble berries, black currant, sweet herbs and a seductive influence of barrel.

2020 40th Anniversary Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $50

Here’s a throwback jersey on a blend of the two Walla Walla Valley vineyards that helped define the future of L’Ecole as the label marks the one-time return of the child’s drawing.

MC: “A million people must have asked

when we were going to use the old label. The more we thought about it, we decided to take a step back to the wines we were making in the beginning — Right Bank style, which means more Merlot-based.”

Nerd notes: Seven Hills makes up 60% of the blend with Pepper Bridge, and it’s a rather straight-forward composition of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc. L’Ecole produced 1,200 cases, and the bottles were released just a few weeks ago.

ED: This also reflects the first crush for Rafanelli as the winemaker at L’Ecole, and his influence in the cellar gave this immediate approachability. Quintessential notes of Bing cherry, Marionberry and dusty herbs include sturdy plum-skin tannins, a burst of pomegranate acidity and finishing touches of roasted coffee, cocoa powder and fig. Based on its current profile and within the context of this tasting, it should be drinking well into the 2040s.

2022 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate

Luminesce, Walla Walla Valley, $25

Jean and Baker Ferguson’s first bottled wine was a Sémillon, and they loved white Bordeaux, which explains why Clubb made certain L’Ecole N° 41 is a Northwest leader for blending Sémillon (60%) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%). And his team does so with varieties not on the tip of the tongue in terms of grape growing in the Walla Walla Valley.

MC: “This is the only white wine we make from Walla Walla. We branched out into a broader blend of a Bordeaux, so itʼs still very much in a white Graves style. Itʼs barrel fermented (15% new French oak), and Marcus has played with a few yeasts to bring out some more aromatics in the wine.”

Marcus Rafanelli and Marty Clubb stage a library tasting in front of a wall that served as the backdrop of children’s plays in the Lowden schoolhouse.

— a new video podcast series via Great Northwest Wine.

RICHARD DUVAL IMAGES

MR: “This is a fun wine, and I love its dichotomy — the aromatics of the Sauvignon Blanc and then it’s all Sémillon on the palate.”

Nerd notes: The 1,630 cases were released this summer.

ED: The barrel influence is tied to the structure rather than distracting from gooseberry, peachy and melon overtones to the lemony crispness and finish of Key lime pie.

With this tip of the cap to the late Jean Ferguson, Clubb remains a champion for a grape that’s beyond the mainstream — Chenin Blanc. L’Ecole began its Vouvray-inspired crusade in 1987.

MC: “Old vine Chenin Blanc. That’s a little bit of a niche wine. I love Chardonnay, but there are a gazillion Chardonnay products on the shelf. Not many Old Vine Yakima Valley Chenin Blancs on the shelf.”

So Rafanelli and his fellow College Cellars alumni produce two bottlings featuring the Loire Valley variety that is more Mary Ann than Ginger. This is the flagship 5,300-case effort that’s the result of long-term partnerships with three Yakima Valley vineyards all established in 1979 — Upland, Willard Farms and Phil Church.

MC: “When we decided to go to a drier style with Chenin, we aggressively contracted with some of the older plantings in the state. We now have 60 to 70 percent of all the old vines in the state. Thereʼs only 70 acres of Chenin in the state and we’ve locked up about a quarter of it.”

Last year, the last Chenin Blanc grapes came into the

Lowden schoolhouse on Nov. 2, leading to a wine that brings floral notes, minerality and citrusy acidity. Rafanelli, who has a culinary background, enjoys serving it with a slice of French toast that’s savory rather than sugary.

MR: “Get a nice, thick piece of challah and soak it overnight so that it’s custardy in the middle. Then bake it so that it still has that richness in the center.”

Vouvray from France has a significant following on the East Coast, where L’Ecole does well with Chenin Blanc in restaurants.

MC: “It’s priced and scaled to have national distribution, and glass-pour wines give wineries great visibility and brand recognition. Itʼs always a goal to have wines that are available in the best restaurants by the glass. And that’s one of the things that has helped put us on the map.”

That presence makes the economics and stress surrounding Chenin Blanc worth it.

MC: “From a viticultural side, it’s always the last thing picked. Cabernet typically is the last thing picked, but usually we’re picking Chenin even after Cabernet. It takes longer to get the fruit mature under our fall conditions, and we’re constantly on the lookout for sour rot, common in Chenin.

“So, we will often drop 10 to 15% of the fruit right before picking,” Clubb adds, “and these vineyards are really good at managing for that.”

ED: Best Buy!

2022 Old Vines Chenin Blanc Yakima Valley, $19

Vouvray-inspired Chenin Blanc was a teacher’s pet of the late Jean Ferguson, founding winemaker for L’Ecole N° 41.

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Marty Clubb, Woodward Canyon founder Rick Small and Leonetti Cellar founder Gary Figgins represent the first three wineries in the Walla Walla Valley.

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The schoolhouse closed in 1974. Baker and Jean Ferguson purchased the former Frenchtown building in 1977, and they began making wine in the basement along Highway 12 starting in 1983. L’Ecole is French for “the school,” and it continues to serve as the flagship tasting room for the Clubb family.

L’Ecole N° 41 Winery contracts with three Yakima Valley vineyards, each planted more than 40 years ago, to produce a deliciously crisp Chenin Blanc that sells for $19 a bottle and continues to earn placement in restaurants on the East Coast.

L’Ecole N° 41 Winery develops lesson plan in history for Walla Walla

By Eric Degerman

LOWDEN, Wash. — Forty years ago, L’Ecole N° 41 first rang the bell as a winery in the historic Frenchtown schoolhouse where Jean Ferguson made the wine for her husband, Baker, to take to market.

They teamed up to produce one white wine — a Sémillon — and a single red wine. That 1983 Merlot would go to the head of the class at the Enological Society of the Pacific Northwest wine competition in 1986.

Their daughter Megan, and son-in-law, a young Texan named Marty Clubb, took time off from their careers in the Bay Area and helped with punchdowns on that Merlot. The brand was named after the French word for school.

“Jean was a pioneer,” Marty says. “We were the third winery in the valley, and she was the first woman winemaker in Walla Walla — and the only one for quite some time.”

Today, the third generation is involved, and Marcus Rafanelli, schooled at Walla Walla Community College’s acclaimed wine program, prepares for his fourth vintage as the winemaker. And there is Clubb, whose stewardship and vision as managing winemaker and viticulturist continues to elevate L’Ecole N° 41. Not only does the brand remain among the pantheon of Walla Walla Valley wine producers, but it also continues to make its mark globally in competitions and the marketplace, especially with Bordeaux varieties white and red.

“We like to say we’re ‘old school,’ and you can see why in how we make our wine,” Clubb says, “but we’re also ʽnew school’ in that Marcus is not only a graduate of the enology and viticulture program but went on to become an instructor. And our entire winemaking team are all graduates of the enology and viticulture program, so they are very wine-smart — smarter than me, quite frankly, although I have more experience.”

What the Fergusons launched in 1983 grew into a 50,000-case brand recognized for wines that deliciously — and with remarkable consistency — straddle approachability and age-worthiness, regardless of the varieties involved.

“Baker focused on Sémillon and Merlot, both obscure varietals at that time

for Washington, but he was super well-read and had an incredible cellar of European wines,” Clubb says. “He loved white Graves. He loved Pomerol. He also understood the climatic issues behind growing great grapes.

“He ran a bank and loaned money to farmers who were growing apples and wheat and eventually wine grapes,” Clubb continued. “He understood early on there was potential for Merlot in Washington state. Baker always did things out of the mainstream, so we made Sémillon and Merlot. When I first got involved, I wondered, ʽHow are we going to sell this stuff? Nobody knows what Sémillon and Merlot are?’ ”

The Fergusons handed Clubb the reins to their retirement project in 1989. It made sense since Marty met Megan in Boston when they were both earning business degrees at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Megan ultimately would take the lead on another family business in Walla Walla — storied Baker Boyer Bank, which her family established in 1869.

“I remember having Petrus many times with Baker, never realizing that it was the bottle of wine that was the pinnacle of Merlot,” Clubb says. “That was one of the many pleasures of being with him. He was well-read and loved telling the stories about the wine, the vineyards and the winemakers. I learned about wine from Baker.”

A defining experience in Clubb’s life poured out when the Fergusons visited him

and Megan in Boston. Baker made his way to a cheesemonger and a bottle shop that featured one of his favorites — a Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley.

“It was an eye-opening experience for me,” Clubb says. “I didn’t realize wine could be so good.”

In the view of critics, the press and blind judgings, Clubb and L’Ecole have produced world-class wines for much of the winery’s history. The most famous example came in 2014 when the 2011 Ferguson Vineyard Red Wine was voted the best Bordeaux blend in the world at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards in London, a judging overseen by the late Steven Spurrier — the gentleman behind the monumental Judgment of Paris. What would have made it even sweeter would have been to share the news with Jean and Baker, who died in 1998 and 2005, respectively. The planting of Ferguson’s 42 acres didn’t begin until 2008.

“We knew if we got a medal with this wine it would put us on a pathway,” Clubb says. “We were really excited that we won a gold medal. We didn’t consider that it would win an international trophy. All I could think of was beating Napa.”

Two years later, the 2013 Ferguson was awarded Best New World Bordeaux Blend at the prestigious Six Nations Wine Challenge — an invitation-only judging in Sydney, Australia.

Marty and Megan Clubb

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Each year, Wine & Spirits Magazine generates its Top 100 Wineries of the World. L’Ecole has made that list 16 times, which brings with it the right to pour at Top 100 Tastings in San Francisco and New York City. Last year, it was the 2019 Perigee and 2019 Ferguson that were presented. Rafanelli created those blends, continuing the tradition of longtime winemaker Mike Sharon.

It starts in the vineyards, where Clubb partners with a number of the Columbia Valley’s premier growers, including Sagemoor (White Bluffs), Klipsun (Red Mountain), Evergreen (Ancient Lakes), Stillwater Creek (Royal Slope), StoneTree (Wahluke Slope) and Yakima Valley sites Upland, Willard and Phil Church.

In the Walla Walla Valley, the enduring connection with Pepper Bridge Vineyard and owner Norm McKibben led to L’Ecole joining the partnership in the North Slope Management, Seven Hills Vineyard and the Clubb family’s establishment of Ferguson.

“It seemed like we should have something more lasting to honor our founders,” Clubb says. “Naturally, we started thinking about planting an estate vineyard named Ferguson. This vineyard site is on the same windy ridge line as Seven Hills but is much higher in elevation — almost to 1,500 feet — and planted on an outcropping of fractured basalt, defining factors for our wines.

“Ferguson is viewed by the wine world as one of the first high-elevation vineyards planted in basalt. And Sadie Drury, who manages Seven Hills and Ferguson, is incredible. Working with her over the past 10 years has improved our quality.”

Clubb’s chemical engineering degree from Texas A&M also helps explain his drive to innovate and sidestep disaster. The Walla Walla Valley is grappling with a number of diseases and pests prevalent in other areas of the Pacific Northwest, particularly locales with own-rooted vines amid climate change.

“There is leafroll virus in Cabernet, and we’ve now discovered phylloxera in vineyards, but we’re on the front-end of the curve in dealing with this,” Clubb says. “We’ve already replanted 15 acres of Ferguson on (phylloxera-resistant) rootstock.

“We are really excited now to be a part of that world where rootstock is part of what we do,” he continued. “Planting different clones on different rootstock and expanding the versatility of the wines we’re making will help take us to the next level.”

One of the rare steps away from tradition was Clubb’s decision to redesign the brand, staying with the schoolhouse theme but moving away from the child’s drawing that served as the whimsical label for two decades.

“In the beginning we were a small, regional startup winery doing our best to be known and loved. A lot of our customer

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Pennington signs on for long term as LʼEcole COO

By Eric Degerman

LOWDEN, Wash. — Marty Clubb and LʼEcole N° 41 have made a statement to the wine community by recruiting Ste. Michelle Wine Estates executive Ryan Pennington to become chief operating officer of the 40-year-old Walla Walla Valley brand.

“I can hear jaws hitting the table with this news,“ Clubb told Great Northwest Wine. “The 40th anniversary says a lot about our past, but it also points to where we are going. This move is about where we want to go for our future — and we want to be the best.”

Judging by the acclaim and the awards won internationally by Clubb’s wines, L’Ecole has been an elite producer for more than a decade. That commitment to excellence and the history surrounding L’Ecole, combined with the opportunity to move his family to Walla Walla, proved overwhelming for Pennington, who spent a decade leading communications and corporate affairs for Ste. Michelle in Woodinville.

His focus shifts from the largest wine company in the Pacific Northwest with an estimated annual production of 6 million cases spanning more than a dozen brands to supporting winemaker Marcus Rafanelli in the production and sales of 50,000 cases.

“I was very happy at Ste. Michelle, and I will always be a proud Ste. Michelle alum, but the opportunity to work with Marty, this team and the incredible legacy and company and brand they built was what really attracted me,” Pennington said. “My involvement at ‘the chateau’ spanned all aspects of the business — developing strategies, trade relations — so I’ve received an MBA of sorts from the University of Ste. Michelle.“

Clubb, 65, is quick to add, “I’m not fading out anytime soon. Ryan and I are going to be doing this together.“

Pennington, 46, starts at the Lowden schoolhouse on Monday, July 10 — three days after packing up his office at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Instead of reporting to a private equity firm based in New York, he will be hands-on at a family-owned winery with a firm financial footing and three tasting rooms. His move comes less than a year after Juan Muñoz-Oca resigned as

base loved that label and its identity,” Clubb says. “Our package today might speak of where we have evolved into being a national and international brand, trying to make the best wines possible from Walla Walla and Washington state.”

Clubb’s willingness to serve both the industry and his community keeps him engaged regionally, nationally and globally. Earlier this year, his family flew to Sacramento, Calif., to see a surprise ceremony where he was presented with the Rich Smith Award of Excellence for Distinguished Service from WineAmerica, the National Grape Research Alliance and the Winegrape Growers of America. He’s the first in the Pacific Northwest to receive the honor.

Clubb served as chair of WineAmerica and chair of the Washington Wine Institute, the industry’s state advocacy organization. He’s been on the board of the Washington State Wine Commission. He helped found the marketing group known as the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance and worked with other area leaders to develop The Institute of Enology and Viticulture for Walla Walla CC, where he remains on the advisory board.

“We were the third winery in the valley, and there were no grapes grown in Walla Walla,” Clubb says. “Today, there are over 130 wineries and 3,500 to 4,000 acres of vineyards. It has been a transformation in a positive way. We have so many great winemakers in the Walla Walla Valley, and there’s a lot of camaraderie and passion. We pat one another on the back when someone gets a big score. That has driven Walla Walla’s success and Washington’s success.”

Rafanelli’s style began to emerge as a winemaking student of Walla Walla CC. After graduating, he moved to Woodinville, where he made award-winning wines for William Church and earned a reputation for his Viognier, Malbec and red blends. Exploration took him to wineries in Australia’s Barossa Valley and Dr. Loosen in Germany.

Upon his return to his native state, Rafanelli joined Walla Walla CC as a winemaking instructor. His global experience, his willingness to give back to Walla Walla CC and fascination with winemaking research made Rafanelli an ideal fit for L’Ecole. Recent additions to L’Ecole’s portfolio include a first-ever standalone Malbec. We did a small production, winery exclusive 100% Malbec in 2008 and 2012. Maybe “Recent additions to L’Ecole’s portfolio include a small production, winery exclusive standalone Malbec.”

“We brought Marcus on, and he built his team so that we’re making the best wines here at L’Ecole — and our staff here could not be stronger,” Clubb says. “It’s that team that makes us what we are.”

With the recent opening of a new section of Highway 12, Clubb was a little concerned about losing much of that traffic coming into town.

“We took a corner of the old Marcus Whitman Hotel, and we have a tasting room there that is called Heritage Wine Bar,” he said. “It’s got a little bit of a night scene, open later with by-the-glass pours and more flights of wine to try, so it’s a little bit different format.

“Last September, we opened a tasting room in Woodinville in the Schoolhouse District,” he continued. “There are some other Walla Walla wineries there, creating its own cluster. It looks pretty promising.”

Marty and Megan’s daughter, Rebecca, designed the Heritage Wine Bar. Their daughter-in-law Melissa, who is married to their son, Riley, recently joined the team as a brand manager. Both of the children share in ownership and sit on the board of directors.

And it seems Rafanelli has found a permanent home at the former schoolhouse that taught a number of future winemakers. The list begins with Eric Rindal, who worked for the Fergusons during that 1983 harvest and started Waterbrook nearby the next year. It also includes the late Eric Dunham, who served as Clubb’s assistant winemaker prior to the launch of Dunham Cellars.

“My first experience with L’Ecole was back in 2007 when I was a harvest intern and student,” Rafanelli says. “It was a great introduction, and I kept in touch with Marty over the years. When I heard he was looking for a new winemaker I threw my hat in there so fast. My goal is to become a great Washington winemaker, and this winery gives me the capability to do that.”

Consistent acclaim comes with its challenges, including Rafanelli’s first three

There are more than 15 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon planted across Ferguson Vineyard, which is on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley.

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vintages at L’Ecole — the pandemic in 2020, the “heat dome” of 2021 and last year’s Hail Mary race to the finish.

“During COVID, there have been supply chain issues because of glass shortages, but one of the silver linings was that there were no events, so there was no travel,” Rafanelli says. “It was just me and my team, and we were able to lock ourselves in the cellar, learn the vineyard blocks, learn the varieties and learn the processes.”

New ways of managing the involvement of oxygen during the winemaking process and embracing crossflow filtering prior to bottling also are done with the consumer in mind.

“Over the years, we thought that we needed to be racking frequently in order to be cleaning the wine up,” Clubb says. “The idea brought to us by Marcus to seal in the flavor and the aromatics of the wine — and saving those for your glass — was a whole new way of thinking for us. I see it paying off.”

From this 40-year foundation, the wines garner global acclaim in an everchanging market. The winemaking and winegrowing teams are solid in their approach to the Heritage tier from Columbia Valley vineyards, the Walla Walla Valley lineup and special projects for club members and select longtime restaurant/ retail partners.

“I’m over the moon that Marty was open to making a few tweaks and changes to the program,” Rafanelli says. “It’s been really fun to see. It takes a while for wine to be made and then released.”

Don’t think that Clubb is standing around waiting for the recess bell to ring on him. With his cellar team in place and the recruitment of Ste. Michelle executive Ryan Pennington as COO of L’Ecole, Clubb plans to focus more on the vines and vineyard relations.

“I don’t know when we’ll get to the day when I have to retire even a little bit because thatʼs the part I love doing,” Clubb says. “It is those final few weeks of fruit maturity that makes the difference in the quality of the wine. Do we need one more thinning pass to get us there? If you are in the vineyard, you can be responsive and act on it.”

L’Ecole N° 41 Winery, Historic 1915 Schoolhouse, 41 Lowden School Road, Lowden, WA 99360 (509) 525-0940. (There are new driving directions with the expansion of Highway 12.)

L’Ecole Heritage Wine Bar, 6 W. Rose St., Suite 103, Walla Walla, WA 99362 (509) 676-3777

L’Ecole Woodinville, 17401 133rd Ave. NE, Suite 1010, Woodinville, WA 98072 (425) 522-5022

Lecole.com

Ste. Michelleʼs head winemaker. Coincidentally, the Argentine expat recently became COO of U.S. operations for Italian giant Marchesi Antinori. Pennington and Muñoz-Oca worked closely with the Antinori family — Ste. Michelle’s longtime partners in Col Solare and Stagʼs Leap Wine Cellars — and the opportunity to bring some of that international background appealed to Clubb.

“We’re good at what we do,” Clubb says. “We’re going to be greater — both on the winemaking side and with Ryan’s ability to help build our distributor partnerships, build our wine club and build our team so that we’re firing on all cylinders.”

Pennington becomes just the third general manager in the past 20 years for L’Ecole, taking over for Constance Savage, who has stepped down because of health issues. In 2018, she gave up a vice president position in New York with international wine/spirits distributor Kobrand Corp., to move to Walla Walla and replace Debbie Frol, a longtime newspaper executive who spent 16 years helping to lead LʼEcole N° 41.

“Debbie came with the strength in the world of business and having been the publisher of the Walla Walla Union-Bulletin,” Clubb said. “Constance brought the world of business and the world of the wine industry with her. That’s why I knew I needed the strongest person in the industry I could find, which is Ryan.”

It was industry leader Benchmark Consulting in Napa, Calif., that recruited both Savage and Pennington for Clubb.

“It’s important for me to continually acknowledge the role that Constance has played in the L’Ecole legacy and setting us up for the next chapter,” Pennington said. “I’m honored to be following in her footsteps.”

Pennington brings two decades of experience in the international wine trade, working out of Seattle for the Washington State Wine Commission and Woodinville for Ste. Michelle. His

“I’m very immersed in telling the Washington wine story,“ Pennington says.

He grew up on a fifth-generation cattle farm outside of Lake Stevens, so the opportunity to raise a family in the wide-open spaces of Walla Walla holds a special charm.

“I love everything about Walla Walla, and I’m excited to be a part of it,” Pennington says. “The same kind of ambition that Marty talks about for L’Ecole, I feel about the valley as a community and a wine industry. I want to be a part of leading this amazing winery and help lift up the entire community.”

After graduating from Western Washington University, Pennington spent several years in politics and public affairs prior to taking over as communications director for the Washington State Wine Commission in 2008. That work first introduced him to Clubb. Along the way, theyʼve served on several boards together, including the Washington Wine Institute and WineAmerica.

“I knew that Ryan would be a great candidate if the time came,” Clubb said. “I didn’t think he would be interested in moving to Walla Walla, but when I found out that he put his name in the hat, I was pretty excited.”

wife, Madeline, is the daughter of storied Seattle restaurateur/vintner Peter Dow.

Ryan Pennington, a former executive with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and the Washington State Wine Commission, is the new chief operating officer for L’Ecole N° 41.

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Neighborhood Bistro Located in Richland, Washington

Food served

It’s no exaggeration to say if it weren’t for Hedges Family Estate on Red Mountain, the Tri-Cities restaurant scene would have lost Fat Olives to Walla Walla.

The neighborhood surrounding Richland’s Uptown District wouldn’t be nearly as delicious, and owner/vintner JD Nolan might be collaborating on his award-winning Schooler Nolan wines with folks other than the Hedges and the Mercers.

“My dad was at a specialty trade show in Anchorage, and we’ve always had Hedges wines on our wine list, so he goes to the Hedges table, and there’s Pete Hedges pouring,” Nolan said. “They had never met, but my dad tells him, ‘I’d love to come down and work a crush some time.’

“I guess Pete said, ‘Come on down!’ ‘Now, everybody says they want to work crush, but nobody follows through.”

Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass

Ingredients

6oz Sea Bass Filet seasoned with salt & pepper

.5 TBS Garlic, mincer

.5 TBS Shallot, minced

1 Cup Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes, halved

1 TBS Cilantro, chopped

Lime juice

Salt & Pepper to Taste

Olive Oil

Instructions

Season Sea Bass with salt and pepper, in hot pan with olive oil sear both sides about 2-3 minutes.

In seperate hot pan sauté heirloom tomato, add galic & shallots. Finish with juice of .5 lime and cilantro just before removing from pan.

Plate Sea Bass over a bed of rice, potatoes or garden fresh vegetable(we chose rice) and finish with heirloom tomato mixture.

Tiny did, and he flew down from Alaska during the 2008 harvest. He’d already bought a house in Walla Walla and planned to open a Fat Olives there on the heels of the Great Recession, but the Hedges convinced him to instead fire up his kitchen in Richland — 15 minutes from their Red Mountain winery and two blocks from the Columbia River.

And 2023 marks the 13th anniversary of Fat Olives in wine country, and JD and his wife, Erika, used their culinary approach, customer service and catering business to survive the pandemic. The family still owns and operates their restaurant on the Kenai Peninsula.

“We consider both restaurants as a neighborhood bistro, and my parents are very much involved in both,” JD says. “We like to cater to everybody. Sitting at this table could be a couple of blue-collared workers who just got off work enjoying a happy dinner with their families, while at this table a couple of white-collars might be having a business meeting. And everyone will feel just as comfortable. Mom and dad can have

Your

with pride, prepared with a Passion!

a nice dinner. The kids can order a pizza, and everybody is happy.”

That includes wine lovers.

JD Nolan is a fourth-generation restaurateur and certified sommelier with a keen interest in the Pacific Northwest wine industry. That’s reflected in receiving Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence for his wine list.

In addition to staging winemaker dinners for Columbia Valley producers and catering events such as the Auction of Washington Wines, Nolan also judges wine competitions throughout the Northwest.

And his palate is reflected in the bottles of Schooler Nolan wines that he sells through Fat Olives and beyond. His red wines have earned a coveted Platinum Award from Great Northwest Wine in each of the past two years, including a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2018 blend of Malbec and Petit Verdot.

“We’ve been really fortunate to have the relationships with both families,” JD says.

Those collaborations with the winemakers, the critical acclaim for the brand and the price make them a bargain at the restaurant or on location for Fat Olives catering events — which range from a picnic for 2,500 folks to a

Calendar of Events

500-plate prime rib dinner.

During the pandemic, Nolan seized upon the opportunity to promote the delectable and affordable customized pizza and calzone program at Fat Olives. His culinary team’s work with gluten-free dough and pasta might be the best in the Tri-Cities and can be enjoyed by anyone.

For lunch, sandwiches such as the housesmoked Beef & Bleu steak sandwich and Reuben with house-cured pastrami can be prepared gluten-free. That goes for the Fat Olives Black Angus burgers.

Nolan would hear about it were he to remove the Pork Osso Bucco on creamy rosemary polenta, the Chicken Marsala or Grilled Korean Short Ribs with tamari-pear gochujang sauce and cucumber kimchi on a bed of rice.

Among the specialties at Fat Olives is the Grilled Hanger Steak with Brandy-Peppercorn Demi-Glace on a plate including puréed potatoes and roasted vegetables, an ideal pairing with any of the Schooler Nolan reds and spotlighted as part of Great Northwest Wine’s 25-year-old MatchMaker series.

An Idaho wine tops Cascadia International for third straight year

By Eric Degerman

RICHLAND, Wash. — For the third straight year, it was an entry from the Gem State that most bedazzled judges at this spring’s Cascadia International Wine Competition as a Grenache by Idaho winemaker Will Wetmore for his Veer Wine Project in the Snake River Valley stole the show.

Wetmore didn’t try to edit himself when he learned the news about his juicy and garnet-colored 2021 Garnacha — the grape’s name in Spanish.

“Holy (expletive)! That’s (expletive) awesome!” exclaimed the Santa Cruz, Calif., native “I’m blown away. I really like the wine, but I’m also thinking that it’s really young and needs some time, so I’m really surprised.”

The eclectic April 27 sweepstakes at the Courtyard Marriott Columbia Point also featured a rosé from Indian Creek Winery near Boise, a Riesling-driven blend from Drum Roll Wine in Renton, Wash., a methode Champenoise by McWatters-led Chronos Wines in Penticton, British Columbia, and a Biodynamic Port-style by Wilridge Vineyard, Winery & Distillery in the Naches Heights west of Yakima, Wash.

Idaho’s string at the Cascadia International with best-in-show winners dates to 2021 when the Telaya Wine Co. 2018 Syrah from the Snake River Valley emerged as the No. 1. Last year, Hailey Minder of 3100 Cellars blew away the judges with her methode Champenoise 2017 Whitewater.

Some of the Pacific Northwest’s top winemakers comprised the majority of judges for this year’s Cascadia International, and yet the panel awarded gold medals at the highest rate in the event’s 11-year history. There were 732 entries for this year’s Cascadia International, signaling an increased interest of 5%, and Idaho winemakers accounted for 42 of 198 gold medals awarded.

Indian Creek in Boise suburbs with 7 superb wines

Accolades for Idaho wines spanned nine best-of-class winners and 16 double gold medals — signaling an unanimous vote for gold. Leading the way was Indian Creek

Winery in Kuna, amassing seven gold medals, including four unanimous double gold. Those included the Best Rosé ($20) and the best-of-class Sauvignon Blanc ($23). The other double golds were for 2021 Malbec ($25) and 2021 Merlot ($26). Mike McClure, who trained under the late founding winemaker — Bill Stowe — showed his versatility with a pair of golds for Pinot Noir from the 2021 vintage. Rounding out the parade of golds from McClure and his wife, Tammy Stowe-McClure, was the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24).

Koenig Vineyards, the Sunnyslope winery run by dairyman-turned-winemaker James Nederend, was awarded five gold medals by the judging panel. The Riesling Ice Wine, a nonvintage bottling with a foundation of the 2021 harvest, earned a double gold medal and nearly made it to the sweepstakes. There was also a double gold for the 2020 Syrah and golds for the Zinfandel-driven 2019 Snake River Valley Cuvée, 2020 Sangiovese and 2021 Dry Riesling.

Nederend and his wife, Sydney, recently expanded plantings at their family’s other estate project — SCORIA Vineyards. However, their collaboration with the Williamson family’s vineyards near Koenig includes Grüner Veltliner, and the vines recently grafted over to the Austrian variety turned into a double gold.

Wetmore, who played varsity baseball at University of Redlands, went 4-for-4 in terms of his Veer Wine Project entries, with each scoring a gold medal — or better. It was a grand slam for his 2021 Garnacha ($34) — double gold, best of class, Best Red Wine and Best of Show. The 2021 Carmenere ($34) started down a similar path — double gold and best of class before it was best out for Best Red. His off-dry 2022 Rêverie Riesling ($22) was a gold, as was the 2022 Soigné Rosé of Grenache ($24). A distant relative is Charles Wetmore, viewed by some as the founder of the California wine industry. He led the state’s viticulture commission and made the white wine that won the Grand Prix at the 1889 International Paris Exposition. Wente Winery in the Livermore Valley produces an estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Wetmore Vineyard.

Idaho’s wine industry has long been rec-

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ognized for its work with winter-hardy Riesling, and it burnished that segment of its reputation by using the noble white grape to win four top awards. The best Dry Riesling was by Boise native Meredith Smith at Sawtooth, as her 2022 Classic Fly Series entry edged out a dry double gold by another Boise native — Melanie Krause of Cinder — and pair of golds from Koenig Vineyards. Smith’s 2021 Dry Riesling for Sawtooth earned a double gold during the 2022 Cascadia.

It was 2014 when Wetmore began working for Hat Ranch Winery/Vale Wine Co., with owner/winemaker Tim Harless. The Hat Ranch 2020 Tempranillo topped that group, and the 2020 Cabernet Franc merited a double gold medal. There was also a double gold for the Vale 2020 Malbec. As a result, their cellar within the University of Idaho’s incubator project along Chicago Street in downtown Caldwell mined more gold per capita than any other production facility during this year’s Cascadia International.

C.J. Northrup’s Famici Wine Co., with estate vines on the Sunnyslope near the Hat Ranch tasting room, has roots at the Chicago Street facility. The Boise State geoscience professor earned three gold medals at the Cascadia, led by a double gold for a 2020 estate Cab and gold for the 2022 Vermentino that fits his Italian-inspired brand.

Rolling Hills Vineyard in Eagle, the 2023 Idaho Winery to Watch as selected by Great Northwest Wine, furthered its reputation with regional judges via gold medals for the Pasculli family’s 2020 Sangiovese, 2020 Tempranillo and 2021 Unoaked Chardonnay.

In the now highly competitive Albariño category, Teresa Moye and her Free Dog Wines brand — a sister project for Fujishin Family Cellars — used their 2020 Albariño from Williamson Vineyards to chase down the best-ofclass award after earning a double gold. Alas, news of the awards arrived the same week she and her winemaker/ spouse, Martin Fujishin, spent their final days with the pair of 14-year-old brand mascots TJ and Tessie.

Maryhill, Robert Smasne tie with 7 top awards

True to form, the Cascadia International showcased the remarkable versatility of winemaker Richard Batchelor and Maryhill Winery. He returned seven gold medals for Spokane-based owners

Will Wetmore continues to soar with his Veer Wine Project, which was named the 2021 Idaho Winery to Watch by Great Northwest Wine’s editorial team.

Craig and Vicki Leuthold, doing so across price points, styles, varieties and production lots.

There was a best-of-class award for the 2020 Gunkel Vineyard Barbera ($52), a trio of gold medals for work with single-variety Bordeaux reds, including two for Malbec and golds for Rosé of Sangiovese ($21), Muscat Canelli ($19) and Sauvignon Blanc ($21).

Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne, one of the Pacific Northwest’s most talented winemakers, earned the attention of judges throughout the mid-week tasting. This spring, there were seven awards of gold or better across his two brands, a showing that included four best-of-class awards and three double gold medals.

Three of those BOCs went to his namesake brand for 2017 Cabernet Franc, a GSM under his 2018 Robert O. Smasne “Carl” Reserve and Malbec-led 2019 Konner Ray Red. Among the best white wines of the Cascadia was his Yakima River Winery 2021 Sémillon, which went double gold en route to best of class acclaim. In the competitive Grenache group, his work from the 2019 vintage off French Creek Vineyard went double gold. Judges also voted gold medals for his Smasne Cellars 2018 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère and Smasne Cellars 2019 Roosevelt Ridge Vineyard Petite Sirah.

Coyote Canyon Winery and its namesake estate vines in the Horse Heaven Hills impressed judges, who awarded a gold medal — or better — to six of the wines made by Justin Michaud and grown by owner Mike Andrews. And the versatility of the site and winemaking touch are both remarkable.

The 2020 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) earned a double gold and best-of-class award. Double golds also went to work with white Rhone varieties (2022 Marsanne, 2022 Roussanne) and the estate Tempranillo. A rosé of Barbera and an Albariño fermented in concrete also received gold medals. Several years ago, Michaud and Andrews won the Cascadia International, using a Sangio that included some influence from Horse Heaven Hills Cab.

Mercer Estates and Mercer Bros. combined for a fistful of gold medals grown across the famed family’s Horse Heaven Hills sites and crafted by winemaker Ashley Stephens. Two were for work with Merlot under the entry-level brand created by brothers Rob and Will Mercer. The 2022 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé from Grenache and 2022 Small Lot Viognier showcased work with Rhône varieties. And

among the golds, the 2019 Spice Cabinet Robert Willis Reserve Malbec ($55) was the only bottling priced beyond $21.99.

The Miller family behind Airfield Estates and their winemaker, Travis Maple, produced five gold medals across the spectrum of styles, price points and bargain-priced rosé under two brands — including the Lone Birch label. They made a strong run at the Best Cab of the Cascadia as their 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) merited a double gold medal. Each wine was grown on their historic 830-acre Airport Ranches along the Roza above the Yakima Valley. The family’s Airport Ranches also contributed the grapes for the Cascadia’s Best White by Drum Roll Wine.

Precept Wine’s cellars in the Walla Walla Valley accounted for five gold medals across three brands. John Freeman and his team won for the Browne Family Vineyards 2020 Bitner Estate Tribute Red, 2020 Family Vineyards Merlot and the Waterbrook 2021 Chardonnay. Hadyn Mouat at Canoe Ridge Vineyard also won a gold for his 2021 Expedition Chardonnay and 2020 Summit Series Cabernet Franc.

The young Dahlman Cellars, which has found a retail home in Tacoma’s historic Stadium District, earned a gold medal for each of the three wines entered by owner/ winemaker Jim Dahlman, an effort led by the judging’s top Merlot ($36). That wine from the 2021 vintage also was grown by Mike Andrews at Coyote Canyon Vineyard. And Dahlman’s work blending Rhône varieties Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre resulted in a gold for his 2021 The Nurse. The previous vintage topped the GSM field last fall in Sip Magazine’s Best of the Northwest judging.

Matt Albee’s team at Bainbridge Island’s deliciously diverse Eleven Winery returned a trio of gold medals for red varietal entries from the 2021 vintage for Lemberger, Malbec and Syrah.

Jones of Washington continues to benefit from the experience of winemaking talent Victor Palencia, whose team crafted three gold medals out of the recent 2022 vintage. Leading the way was the Best Unoaked Chardonnay, winner of a double gold. Consumers will appreciate the price point for all three golds — each retail for $16 and less. Palencia produced two golds under his eponymous brand for a 2022 Albariño and 2020 Syrah. The graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s winemaking program also is working with the new owners of Tucannon Cellars, and his first released wine for them — a 2022 Estate Rosé of Mourvèdre — turned into a gold.

RICHARD DUVAL IMAGES

Ron Bunnell’s approach to bottle conditioning accounted for two of the four gold medals for wines he entered into the Cascadia. There was the 2013 Vestige, a blend of Syrah, Malbec and Merlot that earned a best-of-class award for his grower/partners at Newhouse Family Wines. As for The Bunnell Family Cellar, his 2013 Discovery Vineyard Syrah delivered a gold, joined by the 2018 Painted Hills Vineyard Petit Verdot and 2021 Sémillon.

Above the north shore of Lake Chelan, winemaker Oscar Castillo crafted three gold medals from the 2020 vintage for Lake Chelan Winery — a Malbec, Syrah and the Tempranillo-led Falling Cow Red. There was also a double gold for his 2019 Cabernet Franc ($55) for sister brand Wapato Point Cellars. It’s a remarkable and somewhat predictable achievement by Castillo with Hansen family fruit from the Walla Walla Valley. That combination from the 2018 vintage resulted in the best wine at the 2022 Sunset International in California.

Spokane’s Winescape, the 2023 Washington Winery to Watch by Great Northwest Wine, scored a hat trick with gold medals for Meritage-style Free Fall Red Wine led by Cabernet Sauvignon ($44), 2018 GSM ($39) and its dry 2021 Riesling ($22).

Reustle, Mt. Hood, Spangler lead Oregon

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards began the 2023 competition campaign with a Best White award at the San Francisco Chronicle for its 2021 Estate Green Lizard Grüner Veltliner. At this spring’s Cascadia International, it earned a state-best five gold medals, an effort led by a double gold for the 2022 Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc, followed by gold medals for the 2019 Tempranillo Winemaker’s Reserve, 2020 Syrah Winemaker’s Reserve, 2021 Estate Selection Pinot Noir and the recently released 2022 Estate Selection Grüner Veltliner.

The Kings of Pinot were just that as winemaker Brent Stone’s 2021 Estate Domaine Pinot Gris emerged as best of class and the Best Oregon Wine of the judging. The King family’s flagship Pinot Noir ($28), backed by an ample production of 37,000 cases, also received a gold medal.

Last fall, Hood River native Rich Cushman used a Grenache from Gunkel Vineyard near Maryhill to win “Best of the Best” honors — the No. 1 wine of the 2022 Platinum Awards. This spring, his Midas touch continued at the Cascadia International for Mt. Hood Winery. Two of his wines were voted double gold and best of class — his off-dry 2022 Riesling ($28) and 2019 Petit Verdot ($44). There was also a double gold for his Cab-led 2019 Pinnacle Red and a gold for his 2022 Pinot Gris. Cushman also is linked to the Capital Call Wine Group, which won a gold medal for its 2020 Wind-

horse Syrah, an estate site in the Columbia Gorge for Iowa-based agri-entrepreneurs Steve and Nikki Bruere as well as geologist Alan Busacca.

The 2019 vintage shows that Pat Spangler used his 2018 Oregon Winery of the Year award as a template for future acclaim, receiving gold or better for four entries. His 2019 Petite Sirah was best of class, his 2019 Carm went double gold and his 2019 Cab Franc was golden. And yet, the 2020 Claret may hold the best promise by having already earned a double gold medal among Merlot-led Meritage-type efforts.

One of the southernmost wineries in the Northwest — Belle Fiore in Ashland — came away with a trio of gold medals from the 2019 vintage produced by winemaker Rob Folin. Those efforts ranged from Chardonnay to Verdejo to Barbera.

Gehringer Bros score 5 golds for British Columbia

There were three best-of-class winners and seven double gold medals earned by British Columbia producers. In typical fashion, Walter and Gordon Gehringer — winemaker and grower, respectively — teamed up for five gold medals at the Cascadia International. Each was for cool-climate white varieties, and none retail for more than $18.99 Canadian.

Chronos winemaker Lynzee Schatz, in addition to crafting the best bubbles of the competition, also produced a 2022 Rosé that was in the running for Best Rosé after earning a double gold for Christa-Lee McWatters and her Time Family of Wines in Penticton.

Moon Curser Vineyards, the Crowsnest Highway producer that offers remarkable views of the U.S side of Lake Osoyoos, mined gold medals for work with Viognier, a blend of Roussanne/Marsanne and Northwest benchmark for Italian native Arneis. Last fall, its 2021 vintage of Arneis produced a Platinum at the Great Northwest Wine annual Platinum Awards, and the bottling from the 2022 harvest was another 500-case effort.

Hester Creek Estate Winery, the 2023 British Columbia Winery of the Year as selected by Great Northwest Wine, shined as usual with its 2022 Viognier — best of the competition and double gold — and iconic Estate Old Vine Trebbiano.

On the Naramata Bench, winemaker Kathy Malone and her culinary team at Hillside Winery & Bistro can serve up the Cascadia International’s Best Gewürztraminer ($16.64), a crisp double gold-winning Pinot Gris ($16.64) and flamboyant 2019 Founder’s Block Gamay Noir.

Sweepstakes Winners

Best of show / Best Red Wine / Best Idaho wine / Best Grenache / double gold medal: Veer Wine Project 2021 Garnacha, Snake River Valley $34.00

Best White Wine / Best Washington wine / best of class / double gold medal: Drum Roll Wine 2022 Drum Roll White, Yakima Valley $18

Best Sparkling Wine / Best British Columbia wine / gold medal: Chronos Wines NV Brut, Okanagan Valley $34.99

Best Rosé / double gold medal: Indian Creek Winery 2022 Dry Rosé of Syrah, Snake River Valley $20.00

Best Sweet Wine / double gold medal: Wilridge Vineyard, Winery & Distillery 2019 Estate Biodynamic Red Dessert Wine, Naches Heights $25.00

Best Cabernet Sauvignon / double gold medal: Coyote Canyon Winery 2020 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills $40.00

Best Pinot Noir / gold medal: Indian Creek Winery 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley $32.00

Best Riesling / double gold medal: Sawtooth Winery 2022 Classic Fly Series Dry Riesling, Snake River Valley $28.00

Best Merlot / gold medal: Dahlman Cellars 2021 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills $36.00

Best Syrah / gold medal: Cave B Estate Winery 2020 Syrah, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $33.00

Best Pinot Gris / Best Oregon wine / gold medal: King Estate Winery 2021 Estate Domaine Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley $35.00

Best Sauvignon Blanc / double gold medal: Indian Creek Winery 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Snake River Valley $23.00

Best Sèmillon / double gold medal: Yakima River Winery 2021 Semillon, Yakima Valley $22.00

Best Albariño / double gold medal: Free Dog Wines 2020 Albariño, Snake River Valley $22.00

Best Red Blend / gold medal: Newhouse Family Vineyards 2013 Vestige, Snipes Mountain $52.00

Best Tempranillo / gold medal: Hat Ranch Winery 2020 Tempranillo, Snake River Valley $33.00

Best Malbec / gold medal: Obelisco Estate 2018 Malbec, Red Mountain $55.00

Best Cabernet Franc / double gold medal: Smasne Cellars 2017 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley $50.00

Best Carménère / double gold medal: Veer Wine Project 2021 Carménère, Snake River Valley $34.00

Best Sangiovese / double gold medal: Kindred Vineyards & Winery 2021 Summer Silhouette Sangiovese, Snake River Valley $39.00

Best Petit Verdot / double gold medal: Mt. Hood Winery 2019 Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley $44.00

Best Chenin Blanc / double gold medal: Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2022 Areté Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley $15.00

Best Gewürztraminer / double gold medal: Hillside Cellars Winery 2022 Gewürztra-

miner, Naramata Bench $16.64

Best Viognier / double gold medal: Hester Creek Estate Winery 2022 Viognier, Okanagan Valley

Best Unoaked Chardonnay / double gold medal: L Jones of Washington 2022 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley $15.00

Best Off-Dry Riesling / double gold medal: Mt. Hood Winery 2022 Riesling, Columbia Gorge $28.00

Best Barbera / gold medal: Maryhill Winery 2020 Gunkel Vineyard Barbera, Columbia Valley $52.00

Best Petite Sirah / gold medal: Spangler Vineyards 2019 Petite Sirah, Southern Oregon $39.00

Best Meritage-inspired Red Wine / gold medal: Dunham Cellars 2020 Trutina Red Wine, Columbia Valley $32.00

Best Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend / gold medal: Smasne Cellars 2018 Robert O. Smasne “Carl” Reserve, Columbia Valley $80.00

Best of class / double gold medal:

Luke Wines 2020 The Companion Red Blend, Columbia Valley $25.00; Mt. Hood Winery 2019 Pinnacle Red, Columbia Gorge/Columbia Valley $44.00

Pondera Winery 2019 Stiletto, Royal Slope $42.00

Best of class / gold medal:

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2022 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley $16.99

Parejas Cellars 2021 Appaloosa Red Blend, Columbia Valley $39.00

Smasne Cellars 2019 Konner Ray Red, Columbia Valley $44.00

Stag’s Hollow Winery 2022 Tragically Vidal, Okanagan Valley $20.00

Double gold medal

Airfield Estates Winery 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley $35.00

Cathedral Ridge Winery 2017 Rhett’s Red Reserve Red Blend, Columbia Valley $46.00

Christopher Bridge Wines 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $55.00

Chronos Wines 2022 Rosé, Okanagan Valley $25.99

Cinder Wines 2022 Dry Riesling, Snake River Valley $23.00

Clearwater Canyon Cellars 2020 The Wine Project Red Wine, Idaho 60%, Washington 40% $32.00

Covert Farms Family Estate 2020 Grand Reserve Syrah, Okanagan Valley $58.90

Coyote Canyon Winery 2022 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Marsanne, Horse Heaven Hills $25.00

Coyote Canyon Winery 2022 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Roussanne, Horse Heaven Hills $25.00

Coyote Canyon Winery 2020 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills $36.00

Edward Lynne Cellars 2019 Syrah, Yakima Valley $33.00

Famici Wine Co. 2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley $45.00

Fortuity Cellars 2022 Viognier, Yakima Valley $25.00

Gordon Estate Winery 2020 Tradition Red Wine, Columbia Valley $40.00

Hat Ranch Winery 2020 Cabernet Franc, Snake River Valley $35.00

Hillside Cellars Winery 2022 Un-Oaked Pinot Gris, Naramata Bench $16.64

Indian Creek Winery 2021 Malbec, Snake River Valley $25.00

Indian Creek Winery 2021 Merlot, Snake River Valley $26.00

Kindred Vineyards & Winery 2021 11 Sails Tempranillo, Snake River Valley $36.00

Koenig Vineyards 2021 Ice Wine Riesling, Snake River Valley $30.00

Koenig Vineyards 2020 Syrah, Snake River Valley $34.00

Long Shadows Vintners 2019 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley $75.00

LOVE THAT RED WINERY 2017 That Cab Franc, Columbia Valley $45.00

Neher Family Wines 2020 Syrah, Wahluke Slope $32.00

Obelisco Estate 2019 III NFR Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain $125.00

Double gold medal cont’d

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards 2022 Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc, Umpqua Valley $32.00

SCORIA Vineyards 2022 Grüner Veltliner, Snake River Valley $18.00

Smasne Cellars 2019 French Creek Vineyard Grenache, Yakima Valley $40.00

Spangler Vineyards 2019 Carménère, Southern Oregon $39.00

Spangler Vineyards 2020 Claret, Southern Oregon $32.00

Stag’s Hollow Winery 2020 Syrah, Okanagan Valley $32.00

Upper Bench Estate Winery & Creamery 2020 Estate Chardonnay, Naramata Bench $38.00

Vale Wine Co. 2020 Malbec, Snake River Valley $33.00

VanArnam Vineyards 2020 Tempranillo, Yakima Valley $40.00

Wapato Point Cellars 2019 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley $55.00

Gold medal

Abacela Winery 2020 Estate Fiesta Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley $27.00

Airfield Estates Winery 2019 H. Lloyd Miller Founders Series Red Wine, Yakima Valley $50.00

Airfield Estates Winery 2020 Michael L Miller Founders Series Red Wine, Yakima Valley $50.00

Airfield Estates Winery 2022 Sangiovese Rosé, Yakima Valley $18.00

Barili Cellars 2019 Double Barrel Red, Columbia Valley $25.00

Bella Fiore Winery 2019 Icon Barbera, Rogue Valley $39.00

Belle Arte 2019 Artist Series Verdejo, Rogue Valley $31.00

Belle Fiore Winery 2019 Icon Chardonnay, Rogue Valley $31.00

Bitner Vineyards 2016 Mi Tierra, Snake River Valley $90.00

Black Heron Wines 2017 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain $30.00

Bluebird Hill Cellars 2019 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $54.00

Bluebird Hill Cellars 2019 Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley $54.00

Brian Carter Cellars 2018 Le Coursier, Columbia Valley $40.00

Browne Family Vineyards 2020 Bitner Estate Tribute Red Blend, Columbia Valley $40.00

Browne Family Vineyards 2020 Family Vineyards Merlot, Columbia Valley $25.00

Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2020 Summit Series Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills $46.00

Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2021 Expedition Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills $14.00

Capital Call Wine Group 2020 Windhorse Syrah, Columbia Gorge $45.00

Cave B Estate Winery 2022 Chenin Blanc, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $25.00

Cave B Estate Winery 2020 Cuvée Du Soleil, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $50.00

Cave B Estate Winery 2020 Tempranillo, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $38.00

Chaberton Estate Winery 2019 Syrah, Okanagan Valley $32.00

Clearwater Canyon Cellars 2021 Renaissance Red, Washington $25.00

Covert Farms Family Estate 2019 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon,

Okanagan Valley $63.80

Coyote Canyon Winery 2022 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Concrete Fermented Albariño, Horse Heaven Hills $30.00

Coyote Canyon Winery 2022 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Life is Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills $21.00

Dahlman Cellars 2021 The Nurse, Columbia Valley $35.00

Dahlman Cellars 2022 Rosé, Columbia Valley $20.00

DANCIN Vineyards 2021 Tribute Barbera, Rogue Valley $55.00

DANCIN Vineyards 2020 Entrelace Nebbiolo, Rogue Valley $55.00

DeLille Cellars 2020 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain $80.00

Domaine de Broglie 2019 Cuvée Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills $44.00

Dude Dewalt Cellars 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley $30.00

Eleven Winery 2021 Malbec, Yakima Valley $45.00

Eleven Winery 2021 LEM, Red Mountain $32.00

Eleven Winery 2021 Prima Donna Syrah, Yakima Valley $40.00

Famici Wine Co. 2022 Vermentino, Snake River Valley $26.00

Famici Wine Co 2020 Estate Vineyard Blend, Snake River Valley $45.00

Floating Balance Cellars 2022 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley $18.00

Fortuity Cellars 2019 Destined Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley $65.00

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2022 Private Reserve Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley $16.99

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2022 Old Vines Auxerrois, Golden Mile Bench $16.99

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2022 Private Reserve Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley $18.99

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery 2022 Dry Rock Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley $18.99

Hester Creek Estate Winery 2022 Estate Old Vine Trebbiano, Golden Mile Bench $24.99

Hightower Cellars 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain $45.00

Hillside Cellars Winery 2019 Founder’s Block Gamay Noir, Naramata Bench $28.94

Holesinsky Winery and Vineyard 2021 Unicorn Sparkle Rosé of Syrah, Snake River Valley $22.00

Indian Creek Winery 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley $24.00

Indian Creek Winery 2021 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley $26.00

Intrigue Wines NV I DO Sparkling Wine, Okanagan Valley $22.65

Iris Vineyards 2021 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $24.99

Jones of Washington 2022 Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $15.00

Jones of Washington 2022 Viognier, Columbia Valley $16.00

King Estate Winery 2021 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $28.00

Kiona Vineyards and Winery 2021 Estate Lemberger, Red Mountain $19.00

Koenig Vineyards 2021 Dry Riesling, Snake River Valley $18.00

Koenig Vineyards 2019 Snake River Valley Cuvée, Snake River Valley $32.00

Koenig Vineyards 2020 Sangiovese, Snake River Valley $32.00

Lagrioth Winery 2021 Clos CheValle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan $38.00

Lake Chelan Winery 2020 Malbec, Lake Chelan $45.00

Lake Chelan Winery 2020 Falling Cow Red, Lake Chelan $38.00

Lake Chelan Winery 2020 Syrah, Lake Chelan $45.00

Lindsay Creek Vineyards 2021 Cabernet Franc, Lewis-Clark Valley $28.00

Lindsay Creek Vineyards 2021 Chardonnay, Lewis-Clark Valley $20.00

Lone Birch Wines 2022 Estate Rosé, Yakima Valley $12.99

Long Shadows Vintners 2022 Julia’s Dazzle Rosé, Columbia Valley $20.00

Lopez Island Vineyards – LIV 2022 Siegerrebe, Puget Sound $28.00

Luke Wines 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope $25.00

Maryhill Winery 2020 Les Collines Vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley $54.00

Maryhill Winery 2020 Classic Malbec, Columbia Valley $30.00

Maryhill Winery 2020 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley $44.00

Maryhill Winery 2021 Classic Muscat Canelli, Columbia Valley $19.00

Maryhill Winery 2021 Classic Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley $21.00

Maryhill Winery 2021 Classic Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley $21.00

Mercer Bros. 2020 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills $21.99

Mercer Bros. 2019 Edge of Heaven Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills $21.00

Mercer Estates 2022 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills $21.00

Mercer Estates 2019 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Robert Willis Reserve Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills $55.00

Mercer Estates 2022 Small Lot Viognier, Horse Heaven Hills $21.00

Moon Curser Vineyards 2022 Arneis, Okanagan Valley $29.99

Moon Curser Vineyards 2022 Viognier, Okanagan Valley $26.99

Moon Curser Vineyards 2022 Roussanne Marsanne, Okanagan Valley $26.99

Mt. Hood Winery 2022 Pinot Gris , Columbia Gorge $28.00

Novelty Hill 2021 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Royal Slope $26.00

Palencia Wine Co. 2022 Albariño, Columbia Valley $22.00

Palencia Wine Co. 2020 Syrah, Royal Slope $32.00

Parma Ridge Winery 2019 Syrah, Snake River Valley $38.00

Plumb Cellars 2018 JK Vineyard VIII Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley $48.00

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards 2022 Estate Selection Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley $36.00

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards 2021 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley $39.00

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards 2020 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Syrah, Umpqua Valley $45.00

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards 2019 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley $45.00

TASTING RESULTS | Cascadia

Gold medal cont’d

Rolling Hills Vineyard 2020 Sangiovese, Snake River Valley $35.00

Rolling Hills Vineyard 2020 Tempranillo, Snake River Valley $40.00

Rolling Hills Vineyard 2021 Unoaked Chardonnay, Snake River Valley $24.00

SMAK Wines 2022 Summer Rosé of Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley $22.00

SMAK Wines 2022 Autumn Rosé of Syrah, Columbia Valley $22.00

Smasne Cellars 2018 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère, Horse Heaven Hills $44.00

Smasne Cellars 2019 Roosevelt Ridge Vineyard Petite Sirah, Columbia Valley $44.00

Southern Cross Winery 2018 Syrah, Columbia Valley $36.00

Spangler Vineyards 2019 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon $32.00

Tahija. 2022 Kiona Estate Vineyard Sangiovese Rosé, Red Mountain $22.00

Telaya Wine Co. 2020 Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills $48.00

Telaya Wine Co. 2020 Malbec, Snake River Valley $40.00

The Bunnell Family Cellar 2018 Painted Hills Vineyard Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley $48.00

The Bunnell Family Cellar 2021 Sèmillon, Yakima Valley $21.00

The Bunnell Family Cellar 2013 Discovery Vineyard Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills $42.00

Three of Cups 2019 Le Croyant Petite Sirah, Red Mountain $28.00

Three of Cups 2022 Le Chariot Blanc White Wine Blend, Columbia Valley $18.00

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2019 Polaris Seven Stars Sparkling Wine, Okanagan Valley $39.97

Tucannon Cellars 2022 Estate Rosé of Mourvèdre, Yakima Valley $31.00

Upper Bench Estate Winery & Creamery 2022 Riesling, Naramata Bench $26.00

VanArnam Vineyards 2020 Reserve Syrah, Yakima Valley $38.00

Veer Wine Project 2022 Rêverie Riesling, Snake River Valley $22.00

Veer Wine Project 2022 Soigné Rosé of Grenache, Snake River Valley $24.00

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery 2016 Eruption, Okanagan Valley $55.99

Waterbrook Winery 2021 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley $17.00

Wautoma Springs 2022 Albariño, Columbia Valley $25.00

Welcome Road Winery 2020 Cabernet Franc, Rattlesnake Hills $32.00

Westport Winery 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, Rattlesnake Hills $30.00

Wind Rose Cellars 2017 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley $32.00

Winescape 2021 Riesling, Yakima Valley $22.00

Winescape 2019 Free Fall, Columbia Valley $44.00

Winescape 2018 GSM, Columbia Valley $39.00

Yakima Valley Vintners 2022 Coyote Canyon Vineyard A+ Primitivo Rosé, Columbia Valley $25.00

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