Understanding Fabric Care The objective of fabric care is to clean and restore garments to a condition so they look new. Fabric Care processes can be divided into two basic steps: Soil removal and finishing. Soil removal generally is accomplished by immersing the soiled textile item in water or a solvent to dissolve or flush-out the soils present. Some type of mechanical action and a detergent aid in the removal of the soils. Cleaning with solvents generally is referred to as dry-cleaning, while cleaning with water is referred to as laundering or wetcleaning. The term laundering is used to describe machine washing in either domestic or commercial applications. Wet-cleaning generally refers to hand washing of garments in a professional cleaning facility.
Definitions and Procedures DRY CLEANING Dry cleaning of garments with Perchloroethylene or petroleum solvents avoids saturating the fabric with water. While the clothes are immersed, the solvent does not penetrate the fibers of the fabric, thereby avoiding the possible swelling and shrinking that can occur with water saturation. The garments are inspected and pre-spotted for stains and heavy soiling by a trained “spotter�. After pre-spotting they are sorted by types of fabric, color and weight and then machine-cleaned in solvent containing detergent. The solvent is removed from the garments by draining, spinning and tumble drying with hot air. The recovered solvent is filtered and purified for reuse by a distillation process.
W WET CLEANING
Performed at professional cleaning establishments, typical wet-cleaning cycles consist of numerous successive batch operations using detergents, soaps and bleaches, followed by a rinse operation. As in the dry-cleaning process, the garments are inspected and, if necessary, prespotted. Garments made of delicate fabrics are immersed in water containing detergent and gently hand washed, while heavier fabrics may be scrubbed. The garments are then rinsed, dried in a machine dryer, or hung
The term laundering and/or washing is used to describe washing in either domestic or commercial applications, either by hand or machine. These are the procedures that we are most familiar with and which we use at home...and on yachts!
WASHING
DO NOT WASH
HAND WASH
GENTLE CYCLE
MACHINE WASH HOT
GENTLE CYCLE
MACHINE WASH WARM
GENTLE CYCLE
MACHINE WASH COLD
PERMANENT PRESS
MACHINE wash hot
PERMANENT PRESS
MACHINE WASH warm
PERMANENT PRESS
MACHINE WASH COLD
MACHINE WASH HOT
MACHINE WASH WARM
MACHINE WASH COLD
Drying Instructions
Tumble Dry No Heat
Tumble Dry Low
Tumble Dry Medium Tumble Dry High Heat
Permanent Press
Tumble Dry No Heat
Gentle Cycle
Do Not Tumble Dry
Tumble Dry Low
Hang Dry
Permanent Press
Tumble Dry Low
Gentle Cycle
Tumble Dry Medium
Tumble Dry Medium
Drip Dry
Tumble Dry No Heat
Permanent Press
Gentle Cycle
Dry Flat
How to Determine which Cleaning Method to Use The factors determining the cleaning method used whether a garment is cleaned in water or solvent are: -The dye present in the fabric and the nature of the various trims, linings, or other findings that may be used in the garment. -The types of soil present -The fiber composition and garment construction
DYES The various dyes used to color fibers and fabrics can often determine whether or not an article is washed or dry cleaned. In general, man-made fibers are solution-dyed and respond equally well to either process. Dyes used for rayons, on the other hand, respond very poorly to water. Silk and wool dyes often respond poorly to water, and silk garments are normally dry-cleaned rather than laundered or wet-cleaned. Other types of dyes may respond well to water, but not so well in dry-cleaning solvent.
TYPES OF SOILS There are three basic types of soil: -Water-soluble soils; often consist of body fluids, salts, or sugars and are best removed by water. -Solvent- soluble soils; are oils and greases, including natural oils secreted by the body, that dissolve readily in solvents and are best removed by dry-cleaning. -Insoluble soils; do not readily dissolve in either water or solvent and are normally removed by mechanical action and flushed away from the fabric.
FIBERS & FABRICS Fabrics are made of fibers. Many fibers respond well to both wet-cleaning and drycleaning. There are however, exceptions such as wool, linen, silk and rayon which are subject to shrinkage and felting when in contact with water. In addition, protein fibers like wool and silk tend to degrade after contact with even the mildest alkalies found in the wet-cleaning process. Wools also do not respond well to excessive heat typically used in the laundering process. The scaly nature of wool fibers tends to collapse when subject to heat and mechanical action, producing irreversible shrinkage and felting of the fabric. This problem is enhanced in garments with a loose fabric construction, which tend to relax if the article is washed and shrinkage results. These effects can be minimized using a wetcleaning (i.e., hand washing process.) Most fiber types are compatible with the dry-cleaning process because dry-cleaning solvent does not swell fibers and the clothes are cleaned at room temperature.
Fabric Care Different fabric types should be washed in different ways. Obviously it is vital to follow the care instructions when cleaning the garment. Here’s an introduction and some extra tips on handling common fabrics and keeping your garments looking their best.
COTTONS In addition to being one of the most comfortable fabrics, cotton can withstand numerous washing cycles and also responds well to colour-safe bleach and a good detergent. It also absorbs water better than any other fabric, so you can fight even the toughest stains pretty easily. To keep cottons comfy and looking good: -Avoid hot water and hot dryer temperatures if the item is made of cotton knit. Knits are more vulnerable to shrinkage. -Tumble dry, just long enough to remove wrinkles and moisture. Too much heat can set wrinkles and shrink some cotton fabrics. -Store cotton out of sunlight as overexposure may weaken or turn the fibers yellow. -Always store cotton dry to avoid mildew damage. To care for fine cottons: -Gently hand wash with a mild detergent. Or select the “hand wash� cycle on your washing machine. -Line dry or dry flat to prevent stretching. Put in dryer on air setting only to restore softness.
LINENS, HEMP, RAMIES, etc -Avoid creasing clothing made of linen or ramie in the same places repeatedly — the fabric will eventually weaken at that crease point. -If the linen or ramie garment is machine washable, use a shorter or gentler agitation cycle and air-dry. -For washable, delicate linen or ramie, hand wash, rinse thoroughly and dry flat. Pay special attention to re-shape the item appropriately. -If you need to remove a stain from any of these fibers, soak the item in cool water with soap before washing. -Don’t rub the spot. Ramie, especially, is susceptible to colour loss from abrasion. -Never use bleach. It can weaken the natural fibers. -Iron linen or ramie garments while they are still damp on medium or high heat.
RAYON Always check the garment care label before cleaning a rayon item. Many rayon clothes may require hand washing or dry-cleaning. -If hand washing, use warm water and soap; then gently squeeze (don’t wring or twist) to dry. -If machine washing, use the gentle cycle and avoid using chlorine bleach. -If ironing, iron damp with a low to medium iron; use a press cloth or iron on the wrong side to avoid shine. WOOL Wool is a favourite winter fabric because of its superior warmth and durability. Before treating any wool garment, always refer to the instructions on the care label. Then follow these basic suggestions: -Refresh, if possible, by hanging in a steamy room. -When pressing, use steam on slightly damp fabric; iron on reverse side or use a press cloth to avoid shine; lower and lift iron, don’t slide.
Written by The Talking Stew
May 2012