l Style
fresh eye
Magazine
Style edition
& Fashion l Omega l Food l Mercedes l Travel l David Hockney
Issue 44. August 2020 Lifestyle Photography Culture
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l Style Icon Dapper Dan
The street says hello to luxury.
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foods to savour The benefits.
Menswear fashion 2020.
Mirrorless extravagance.
l Wholesome
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l YSL S/S 2020
Womens fashion.
l Burberry S/S
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l David
Hockney The New.
l Important nature
by Sophie Fitzjohn. l Omega
Apollo 11 Moonwatch. l Roger Federa
Centre court ‘O Series’. l Mecedes Avatar
Fast forward electric. l Mindful eating
By Harry Fishpool. l Travel legs
Portugal and France.
Sponsored by
l Sony AR7 IV
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l Square
Root London Made in Hackney.
Cover: MALIN+GOETZ combines trusted natural ingredients with advanced technology to create uncomplicated luxury skincare. Photography: Aaron Dyer
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Omega landing One giant leap for mankind’s watch enthusiast.
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t is now 50 years since mankind stepped onto the moon and changed history forever. On this golden anniversary, OMEGA is looking back on its own special role aboard Apollo 11 and the Moonwatch legacy that still inspires the brand today. On the 21st of July 1969, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped off the Eagle to become the first humans to stand on another world. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of that moment, OMEGA has crafted a new Limited Edition of 6,969 pieces inspired by Apollo 11. The OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is one of OMEGA’s most iconic timepieces. Having been a part of all six lunar missions, the legendary Speedmaster is an impressive representation of the brand’s adventurous pioneering spirit.
and timeless design. And since the 21st of July 1969, when it was first worn on the lunar surface, it has been popularly known as the Moonwatch. Enhancing a legacy Inspired by its legendary predecessor, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph is set to establish its own reputation. It shares some core elements with the original Speedmaster Professional but has features that will attract new fans to the world’s favourite chronograph.
Timeless - The speedmaster moonwatch chronograph Since its launch more than half a century ago, the OMEGA Speedmaster has been the classic chronograph, known for its robust reliability
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Timepiece
Right: From 1969 to 2019 The Omega Chrongraph Speedmaster Moon Watch.
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Limited Edition in new 18K Moonshine™ gold.
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Brand
Exclusive note Dubbed THE ROGER Centre Court “0 Series,” this inaugural edition is limited to 1,000 and individually numbered. It features a familiar all-white color scheme with white stitching, gold embossed decals, a small Swiss flag at the heel, a black Speedboard® and gum outsoles.
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Advantage Federa It’s all within an agreeable partnership.
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even months after announcing their partnership, Swiss performance footwear brand On and legendary Swiss tennis player Roger Federer unveil their first collaborative sneaker, THE ROGER. Sporting innovation When Federer first met with On’s founders two years ago, he was immediately blown away by their commitment to performance innovation. But being somewhat of a style icon in his own right, the 20-time Grand Slam winner was curious about On’s ability to find a place in the world of fashion. He loved the comfort and lightness of On’s running shoes, thanks to the brand’s proprietary CloudTec® technology, where hollowed pods take shape in the sole unit to offer an elite running experience. So Roger naturally asked, “What if we cover them up, yet they’re still there?” After two years of prototyping, this idea has finally come to fruition in THE ROGER, a shoe inspired by the archetypal tennis sneaker of the ‘70s. An obvious silhouette choice for one of the greatest tennis athletes of all time, but also a challenging one to
reinvent and reinspire. However, with this encased CloudTec® sole unit, along with On’s Speedboard® and signature sock-like entry, THE ROGER is touted as the most comfortable and lightest tennis-inspired sneaker ever. What’s more is that THE ROGER was crafted with their beloved Swiss mountains in mind, and uses a high-grade vegan leather, which is approximately 30% of the footprint of animal leather.
Roger Federer and On launch the most technicalretro tennis sneaker yet.
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www.buckitt.co.uk
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Mercedes Avatar M
ercedes-Benz has revealed its take on the vehicle as a “living creature” with the Vision AVTR concept, which takes design cues from the sci-fi fantasy film Avatar by James Cameron. Dubbed the Vision AVTR, the design takes its name not only from the Avatar film it was inspired by, but also stands for “Advanced Vehicle Transformation”. Unveiled at this year’s Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas, the concept car embodies the German car brand’s vision of what mobility will look like in the distant future, with scales and a crab-like movement. The Vision AVTR is a more imaginative
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version of Mercedes’ Vision EQS luxury saloon car unveiled in September 2019 at the Frankfurt Motor Show, which is set to reach production in 2021. Both models feature the same structure that Mercedes-Benz calls a “one bow” proportion, which centres on a stretched profile with a long cabin, short bonnet and trunk, and expansive doors. The AVTR, however, boasts a design inspired by the world of Pandora – the fictional universe where director James Cameron’s Avatar film is set – and its blue humanoid creatures, in a bid to demonstrate a new way that people, machines and nature can interact.
Concept Car
Presentation Head of MercedesBenz Cars, Ola Källenius, presented the Vision AVTR concept in a keynote speech, together with director and Avatar creator James Cameron – who was also behind the 2019 sci-fi blockbuster Alita: Battle Angel.
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Eco friendly In a bid to create 100 per cent recyclable batteries, Mercedes-Benz’s Vision AVTR concept also incorporates battery technology centred on a graphene-based organic cell chemistry that is free of “rare earths” and metals such as nickel and cobalt. The materials used to make the battery are compostable and fully recyclable, making the car free from fossil resources. The Vision AVTR interiors are also made from sustainable materials such as vegan leather seats, with a floor made of rattan. “The definition of the luxury of the future is about the fusion of beauty and intelligence,” said Wagener. “The AVTR vision embodies that redefinition of luxury by combining the beauty of nature with the responsibility of sustainable luxury for our planet.”
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Concept Car
Movement The front and rear axles of the car can be driven in the same or opposite direction, enabling the car to move sideways by around 30 degrees “like a crab�, as well as forwards and backwards, giving the vehicle an animal-like presence.
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Communication A total of 33 “bionic flaps” are embedded into the back of the vehicle to emulate the scales of reptiles. These scales can communicate information to the driver and to the car’s surrounding environment via subtle “flowing” gestures. Far left: A multifunctional control element running through the centre of the car’s interior acts in place of a conventional steering wheel, and allows the car and driver to connect via biometric readings.
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Concept Car
Quote “We didn’t want to create a car, we wanted to create something like a living organism,” said Mercedes-Benz chief design officer Gordon Wagener. “It is a vehicle that is able to enhance the capabilities of your own body – like the idea of an Avatar in the movie.”
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At the heart The car doesn’t have a steering wheel, as Mercedes and Cameron instead imagine the car’s center console would recognize “the human driver’s heartbeat and breath so man and machine literally merge into a fully intuitive experience,” If the passenger lifts their hand, a menu selection is projected onto their palm, which they can use to select different driving functions. The car features a 110 kilowatt-hour electric motor that can produce 469 horsepower and a range of roughly 435 miles.
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Dapper Dan & Gucci fresheye marks a turning point from the street to high fashion and luxury.
fresh eye
Right: Dapper Dan Daniel Day at the 2019 Met Gala Ball.
Style & Fashion
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After a rumble with Gucci, in which the brand may or may not have knocked off his famous Louis Vuitton coat for Olympic runner Diane Dixon, Daniel Day decided to partner with the Italian luxury house on a new atelier. The space is in a townhouse on Lenox Avenue and is about as posh as it gets.
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Foundation Born Daniel Day in New York, the designer is one of the most renowned creators of the 20th century. From his store on 125th Street, he created fantastic pieces inspired by, but not directly referencing, designer clothing.
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Brand obsession “I’m still amazed by the fact that Gucci came to Harlem,” says Dapper Dan. “I went to Gucci and found something,” he continues, referencing his career-long obsession with the double Gs,
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Creativity
From his store on 125th Street, he created fantastic pieces inspired by, but not directly referencing, designer clothing. Day has made a Gucci car and a Louis Vuitton tracksuit, all while trying to sidestep the FBI, which was determined to shut down
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what it saw as a counterfeiting operation. Anyone with any sense could tell you that what Day does is not make knockoffs - he calls them “knock-ups.� The patterns or references might be from luxury fashion, but the application and creativity are all his own.
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Daniel Day & Naomi Cambell “I’ve known Naomi since she was 19,” says Day. “Her presence here is symbolic. I met her when I was starting out and she was starting out, and now we’re at this height.
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Collection From the Gucci-Dapper Dan collection 2018 designed by Dapper Dan Harlem and Alessandro Michele.
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Relevant
Day’s work has long had support in and out of the fashion world. In the ’80s and ’90s, his atelier was frequented by Big Daddy Kane, LL Cool J, and Mike Tyson. Today, the clientele includes DJ Khaled, Salma Hayek (who wore a Dapper Dan piece to the Vanity Fair Oscar party)
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Vision
As Day tells it, his process is borne from the necessity to be seen in a society where black creators, and black culture, are underrepresented.
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Mindful when eating
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indfulness is based on ancient religious philosophies such as Buddhism and Taoism, where their teachings encourage you to notice your surroundings and understand the environment in which you are in. The teachings also stress for you to understand the emotions that you feel at any particular time point. These concepts may be applied to you and your feelings towards food and how you feel at meal times. As you will see there’s a lot more to it than just feeling hungry.
Getting inside your mind while enjoying your food by Harry Fishpool. patisserie window. Choosing and prepping food. This component of mindful eating is knowing where your food has come from and treating it with due care and attention. This step starts by having a look at the packaging: has the food got air-miles? Is it free range/organic? Are the portions small or large? These quick steps help you make more informed choices when choosing your food, and you will soon appreciate the journey your food has taken (and all the people that have made that journey possible) to be with you in your shopping trolly, and soon to be on your plate. Being mindful when cooking encourages you to open up your senses and take note of what is happening in front of you. Observe
Recognising hunger. This first aspect of mindful eating takes time to come to get to grips with. It is simply becoming aware of your body, the huger sensations, and knowing when it is the right time to eat and what the right thing to eat is. Sometimes it’s best to think about the reasons why you’re hungry: whether your hungry because you’re used to snacking at this time, or if it’s simply just something to do. Am I hungry because I am genuinely hungry and I should eat, or am I hungry because that Danish pastry is screaming ‘eat me!’ from the
Sponsored by
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Food
Credit Harry Fishpool is studying an a MSc in Human Nutrition at University of Surrey. His wine knowledge gained from WSET level 3 Award in Wine.
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Harry says.....
how your food is transforming as you cook: the exciting smells, the changing textures, the evolving colours. Take a moment to really appreciate what is happening as you cook, and as you develop a deeper understanding of this process, you will enjoy your cooking far more. Also, cooking is a time in which to slow down, and therefore, a time for you to slow down too. Even if your recipe is a 5 minute wonder job from Jamie Oliver, take your time about it. After all, it will still only take 5 minutes. Meal time. The most important factor in eating mindfully is – you guessed it – developing a certain mindfulness as you eat. It is also the easiest to start off with. For instance, setting down your cutlery after every bite and taking note of the flavours and textures as you chew; does it taste the same way as it smelt? Are the textures the same as when you started cooking? This is the time to build a healthy relationship with food. What are your emotions as you eat? Are they positive, negative or indifferent? Also, take note of the environment your eating in. When on your lunch break, are you in a busy café or have you found a quite secluded spot? It's important to make time to eat with others too. Humans are a social species and food has been a cornerstone of or civilisation for millennia. Eating with friends and family helps build
strong relationships and many argue that we are not doing it enough in our modern day society. Having an insight to how you feel as you eat can result in positive changes in the food choices you make and how, when and where you eat. As you’ve finished. Once you have finished your meal, it is really important to continue to listen to your body and understand what it is saying. This is the stage where you can avoid over eating. Ask yourself whether you are still hungry. Quite often we want to feel totally satiated (feeling full), but once have we reach that stage, we have often eaten too much. Knowing how you feel after a meal will help you control portion sizes and will help you to prevent binge snacking later in the day. Understanding your emotions around food and hunger will go a long way to improving your eating habits and help you build and achievable goals. These steps take time to learn and master. The best way is to take it one step at a time and don’t rush the process. Importantly, as you get better at understanding your emotions, you must also be mentally prepared if your feelings and emotions change down the line. Understanding and being honest with yourself will allow you to make suitable dietary changes that you will benefit from in the long run.
Quotes - Food is not just eating energy. It’s an experience. Guy Fieri
Eating good food is my favourite thing in the whole world. Nothing is more blissful. Justine Larbalestier
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fresh eye
Travel
Above: Porto or Oporto is the second-largest city in Portugal and one of the Iberian Peninsula’s major urban areas. A coastal city in northwest Portugal known for its stately bridges and port wine production. In the medieval Ribeira (riverside) district, narrow cobbled streets wind past merchants’ houses and cafes.
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When in Europe A Portugese and French discovery by our dancing traveler Hillary Sukhonos.
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onths of self-isolation have stoked desire to travel. For some of us, armchair travel is our only option right now. While Europe and Asia proceed to open travel and tourism, the UK and Americas remain stymied in the pandemic quagmire. Well, while the world falls into the new dark age, I shall dream of brighter days‌ like care free airline travel, sidewalk cafes, and watching smiles, not masks, appear on people’s faces. I invite you to imagine the fresh air of a beach escape and recall the wonderment you feel when exploring narrow village streets. I offer two European spots, both known for their regenerative and smile-inducing qualities. Find relief from these uncertain times within the colorful, relaxed, and flavorful seaside city of Porto, Portugal; and secondly, the reclusive, moody, and effervescent Etretat, France.
Porto, Portugal If your travel passions are art, architecture, and design then head to Porto and stay in the art district known as Rua de Miguel Bombarda. Rows of art galleries nest beside new fashion creators, upcycle boutiques, and my personal favorite, tea parlours. Breathe in the rich scents at Rota Do Cha on Rua de Miguel Bombarda 457, a veritable oasis of calm, tea, and bohemian atmosphere. Notes of street musicians will rise in the cobblestone street as the sunset casts long shadows. Evenings can be enjoyed strolling across the famous bridges over the river Douro. Let the night take you. Etretat, France If kayaking, cliffs, and caves call your name then dream of Etretat, a noble seaside village in north-western France. Striking white
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Porto, Portugal - Smaller and cuter than its big sister Lisbon. Porto gently emerges and has a lot to offer in terms of culture, leisure and gastronomy with its historic center. Etretat, France - A hidden gem of Normandy, France. Etretat is a perfect offbeat day trip from Paris.
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alabaster cliffs plunge into calm seas where you can rent kayaks to explore the arches and inlets of this striking shoreline. Explore some of Monet’s favorite bluffs on foot trails that lead past the sculpture garden of Alexandre Grivko and Notre Dame de la Garde chapel. What is the must do activity in Etretat? Watch the sunset! Cure for 2020 woes are certainly found in the natural setting of this Normandy village. At this tumultuous moment in history, make it a priority to escape to your balcony, backyard, or local hotspot. Surely, if there was ever a time to enjoy local get-a-ways it is during a pandemic. If you are lucky enough to be allowed travel, check with official health and embassy sources. Or, like travel writer, Sarah Khan, just live vicariously through your friends social media feed!
Travel COVID-19 travel guidance The Foreign & Commonwealth Office currently advises British nationals against all but essential international travel. Travel to some countries and territories is currently exempted. This advice is being kept under constant review. Travel disruption is still possible and national control measures may be brought in with little notice.
Above: Douro River Traditional Porto Boats and Porto rooftops. Above right: Etretat Cliffs and Beach. These cliffs and the associated resortbeach attracted artists including Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet and ClaudeMonet. Right: The sculpture garden of Alexandre Grivko and Notre Dame de la Garde chapel.
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Eat healthy
Fresheye rounds up some wholesome dishes to seduce the palate and promote good health. Put some vitality on your plate.
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Food
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Unprocessed They are found in all real foods, especially plant foods like vegetables, fruits, nuts, whole grains, and legumes. Fresh, unprocessed animal foods also contain antioxidants though in much lower levels.
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Wholefood salad.
FOOD NOTE Above: Fresh berries and nut salad. High in antioxidants.
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Food
Antioxidants are compounds that inhibit oxidation. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that can produce free radicals, thereby leading to chain reactions that may damage the cells of organisms.
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Orange, advocado and walnut salad. Sushi is a good source of iodine, and there is scientific evidence which states that iodine helps balance the thyroid hormones. Rasberry, blackberry, blueberry, figs, yoghurt, muesli.
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Food
FOOD NOTE: Basil chicken with lemon is an easy one pan skillet meal packed with fresh flavours. Chunks of juicy chicken stir-fried with garlic, fresh lemon, and basil, this recipe requires hardly 5 minutes of prep and can be on your plate in 20.
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A little of what you fancy. Below right: Want something fresh but hearty? Whip up our juicy marinated steak salad with fresh summer greens! It’s perfect for a quick lunch or a light dinner. High in protein and iron. Garnish with a home made seasonal sauce for that peefect finishing touch. Variation. Below: Sweet potatoe, corn and black bean hash. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute until browned in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Add sweet potato and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown in spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, jalapeno, cumin and salt; saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add water and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until liquid is absorbed, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in corn and black beans and cook until heated through. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lime wedges.
Meat and salad Carbohydrates and vegetables
Sweet chilli chicken salad Create salad meals with pre- prepared meat options. Quick and easy to do, just ad the desired salad. Chilli is known to increase the metabolism so enjoy a little heat and reap the benefit too.
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Lady Chic YSL S/S 2020 Collection. Pillars of white light strafed the night sky from a vast black stadium erected opposite the Eiffel Tower.
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Womens Fashion
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Lapels Anthony Vaccarello’s creative directorship reaches for miles. This is timeless Saint Laurent, not just for the leggy and skinny in their clubbing years but for all generations.
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Gladitorial seduction Gorgeous gold paisley embroidered dresses, tissue-like chiffon blouses, pleated lamĂŠ skirts, peasant smocks, and off-the-shoulder gathered necklines.
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Ruffles Hippie glam - the style that Yves Saint Laurent elevated from the street in 1976.
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Bohemian Softer, more delicate side to Vaccarello’s sensibility, and one rich with a kind of relatable, easy romanticism.
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Ruffle & Cuff Betty Catroux sunglasses, and slick, funnel-leg Western boots.
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Hippy chic Reams of micro shorts and Bermuda cutoff jeans, riffs on tailored jackets.
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Floral Transparency Gorgeous materials and opulent embroidery, emphasizing Saint Laurent’s luxury yet wearable aesthetic.
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Rock Signature rock-inspired aesthetic.
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Evening Tuxedo suit, closed out by Naomi Campbell.
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Monochrome Man Burberry Men S/S 2020. Riccardo Tisci continues to develop the bridge between Burberry’s tailored heritage and his own streetwear-inclined designs. Entitled “Evolution,” Tisci’s springsummer 2020 men’s lineup takes another step forward.
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Mens Fashion
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Stripes From watercolour stripes to hand-drawn prints, artistry brings animals to life.
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Designer quote “This is a collection inspired by our past and dedicated to our future. It’s the evolution of our Burberry kingdom.”
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Strap on Grey is established as a new house code in soft tonal shades across tailoring, outerwear and T-shirts.
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Black sache Reinforcing both Thomas Burberry’s and Riccardo Tisci’s recognition of their symbolism and power.
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Staples Taking clashing cues from streetwear, sports influences and British heritage.
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Aztec mono touch Taking clashing cues from streetwear, sports influences and British heritage.
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Drape Outerwear and jersey separates are reinterpreted with attitude for a new era.
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Hockney and the New David Hockney, (born 9 July 1937) is a British painter, draftsman, printmaker, stage designer, and photographer. As an important contributor to the pop art movement of the 1960s, he is considered one of the most influential British artists of the 20th century.
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Artist
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SCENE SET Hockney moved to Los Angeles in 1964, where he was inspired to make a series of paintings of swimming pools in the comparatively new acrylic medium using vibrant colours. The artist lived back and forth among Los Angeles, London, and Paris in the late 1960s to 1970s. In 1974 he began a decade-long personal relationship with Gregory Evans who moved with him to the US in 1976 and as of 2019 remains a business partner. In 1978 he rented a house in the Hollywood Hills, and later bought and expanded it to include his studio. A global sensation with exhibitions in London, New York, Paris and Beyond, attracting millions of visitors worldwide. Now entering his ninth decade, Hockney shows absolutely no evidence of slowing down or losing his trademark boldness. Left: Ever the techno-geek, Hockney took it upon himself to learn to paint on the Ipad, using a Paint app.
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‘The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate’, East Yorkshire in 2011.
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Hockney’s long exploration and fascination with the depiction of landscape.
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Four Seasons, Woldgate Woods.
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‘More Felled Trees on Woldgate’ from 2008.
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The debt to Van Gogh and Picasso is clear; the exploding colours, the multiple viewpoints.
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They complement the theme and have been used to his advantage, but the ethos is all his own.
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Quality It’s all about
SONY A7R IV
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Camera Content: It’s been a hot minute since the last camera review. So true to form it’s Sony that merits the mention.
SPEC NOTE: Superb image resolution, speed, and focus. Remarkable high resolution of CMOS sensor, maximised by imaging engine, minimised vibration, 5-axis image stabiliser. Up to 10fp burst shooting with superb AF performance. Realtime Eye AF.
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SONY ALPHA A7R IV CAMERA With world’s first 61.0 mp back illuminated full-frame image sensor
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The camera also boasts an impressive 15-stop dynamic range at low sensitivities, resulting in smooth natural gradations ranging from deep shadows to highlights, and utilises algorithms from many of the latest Alpha cameras to maintain outstanding colour reproduction. It’s equipped with a variety of advanced connectivity features designed to enhance professional workflow. The new model includes wireless LAN functionality to support the conventional 2.4 GHz band as well as a high-speed 5 GHz band for faster, more stable data transfer.
Camera
SONY A7R IV
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Sony have truly set the bar with the new Sony A7R IV. Delivering medium format level quality with 15 stops of dynamic range,
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Handmade in Hackney
Taste buds awaken in the
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n an unsuspecting corner of Hackney Central, East London, there’s a busy non-alcoholic soda brewery named Square Root London. From the street, all you can spy are a few empty crates and a large standalone chiller, but when granted access inside it’s a veritable Charlie’s Chocolate Factory of activity. Cases and cases of fresh fruit are strewn about the place, large cauldrons and vats are bubbling away with brightly coloured juice concoctions, and a smallish gaggle of staff enthusiastically discuss ideas for their next obscure soda flavour. The man behind all of this is Ed Taylor. “From the very beginning we wanted to focus on using fresh and seasonal produce. It’s easy to lose touch with seasonality when most fruit and veg is available year round from your local supermarket. So, we really wanted to get people thinking about when produce is at its best and what else might be in season when your favourite summer berries have finished. Buying from UK farmers when they have the produce available is the best thing to do, and it keep things simple.”
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Beverage
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heart of the East End.
Award Winning Sodas, Made From Fruit to Bottle in East London.
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