Fresheye magazine. February Edition 2017.

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Style l Fashion l Dining l Leica l Icon l

Magazine

Style I Fashion I Dining edition Issue 14. February 2017 Photography Lifestyle Culture

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Contents 54 10 4

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l Christian Dior

A retrospective. l Nobu

Rise and Dine. l The Shirt

Alexandra Wood shirts. l Art File

KAWS the artist. l Fashion

McQueen S/S 2017. l Style Icons

A history of style.

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l Leica M-P

Rangefinder.

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l The Luna 360

Surround vision.

l Goodbye Princess Leia May the force be with her.

Cover photography: Dennis Sterne Shot with Canon 5D MK1

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Christian Dior

Bringing a

C

hristian Dior the legendary fashion designer, was born in Normandy, France in 1905. His career revolutionized the fashion industry and changed the way women expressed their femininity through luxury ready-to- wear clothes. In 1947, Dior made his name on the Paris fashion scene with designs which excelled despite all the wartime restrictions. When the people thought of Dior it was an instantaneous thought process of French couture, luxury and beauty. He reintroduced a femininity and focus of luxury to women's fashion, this was instrumental to the aspiration of all women of the era wanting to be dressed in his designs.

Dior was from a wealthy family, who moved to Paris when he was only a child. Dior was passionate about art and expressed an interest in becoming an architect. However, pressurised by his father to study to be a diplomat, he enrolled at the École des Sciences Politiques in 1925. After his graduation in 1928, however, Dior opened a small art gallery with money he received from his father. In

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Christian Dior Above: Cara in Burberry. Above right: Mr Jenks

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Sophie says.....

fashionscape into frame by Sophie Fitzjohn. the short time that Dior’s gallery was open, it handled the works of artists such as Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Max Jacob. Despite this success, Dior was forced to close the gallery in 1931, because of the deaths of both his older brother and his mother, and the financial collapse of his father's business. Despite his affluent upbringing, his fashion career had a modest beginning.

Dior decided to kick start his career by selling fashion illustrations and in 1935, landed a job illustrating the magazine Figaro Illustré.

In the following years, Dior was hired as a design assistant by Paris couturier Robert Piguet. However, because of the outbreak of World War II the following year, Dior was enlisted to the services in the south of France as an officer in the French army, to support his country in a time of adversity. Following France's surrender to Germany in 1940, Dior returned to Paris, where he entered the couture house of Lucien Lelong, where he first learnt to design clothes.

In 1946 Dior opened his own design house and revolutionised fashion with his very first collection. When fabric was rationed and

‘My dream is to save women from nature.’

clothing was much subtler Dior introduced the ‘New Look’, post World War 2 and it was all about opulence and luxury. This look was the complete opposite to what people had been used to. Shoulders were brought in with sloped necklines, and nipped in waists were paired with full skirts which dropped down to the ankles.

He was a brilliant business man as well as a very successful designer. He created a fashion empire which has lasted the test of time. Dior took haute couture and expanded it into what we have today, luxury ready to wear. Now the brand is known for accessories, perfume, make up as well as clothing. He was very good at making licensing agreements, many of which are still in effect today. Whilst on vacation in Italy Christian Dior sadly died of a heart attack on the 23 rd October 1957, aged 52. This was only months after appearing on the cover of Times magazine.

Legacy

In the 1950’s Christian Dior was without a doubt the most famous fashion designer in the world.

He had dressed many iconic people and was most famous for dressing Grace Kelly.

In a decade he created a legend and a legacy which is still with us today, At the time of his death, Dior’s house was earning more than $20 million annually, he was truly a master of his craft.

Dior’s funeral was attended by an estimated 2,500, also during this time his assistant Yves Saint Laurent, took over leadership of the company and as a result the house of Dior lived on. Dior created such a profound impact on fashion even through his career was short.

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Sophie says.....

Montage

Left: Dior Fall Ad Campaign 2016.

Above far left: Dior ready-to-wear fall 2012 line. Designer Bill Gaytten.

Above left: 1950’s Dior evening dress. Photograph by Norman Parkinson.

Above top: Runway backstage at Christian Dior Haute Couture AW16 Above: Dior new look 1947 fashion show.

Above right: Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011 The actress and Dior muse Natalie Portman stars in a brand-new campaign. Naturally sophisticated, she embodies the new Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion foundation.

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Sophie says.....

Montage

Left: Dior-Homme Spring-2014 precollection.

Above far left: Christian Dior Homme Spring Summer 2015.

Above left: 1970 Christian Dior Men and women’s fall fashion.

Above top: Spring Summer Dior Homme 2015 Above: Fall Winter Dior Homme 2014.

Above right: Spring Summer Dior Homme 2012 Campaign Follow @DiorHomme to stay up to speed with all the latest activity and dive into the Creative Director’s inspired universe.

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Japanese Son Rise

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Nobu, a flavour of London.

pened in 1997, Nobu London remains one of the city’s top dining hot spots. The eponymous restaurant was the first European venture for the celebrated Japanese Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa and was opened in conjunction with partners Robert de Niro, restaurateur Drew Nieporent and hotel owner Christina Ong. With its own street entrance on Old Park Lane, the restaurant occupies the first floor of the trendy Metropolitan Hotel. The 150 cover restaurant includes a separate sushi bar and the minimalist, chic interior boasts stunning view across Hyde Park through full height windows. Designed by United Designers the interiors make subtle use of light woods and natural stone to reflect the diverse influences of Nobu’s cuisine, incorporating the purity and quality materials inherent of traditional Japanese design.

The menu at Nobu London captures Matsuhisa’s “new style” Japanese cuisine, where traditional Japanese techniques meet South American flavours. This new style cuisine is a reflection of Matsuhisa’s training as a sushi chef in Tokyo, combined with his extensive travels. This cuisine has become his trademark and the foundation of his worldwide success. Signature dishes include Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, Tuna

Sashimi Salad with Matsuhisa Dressing, the sizzling Beef Toban Yaki and the famous Black Cod in Miso.

Nobu London was awarded one Michelin Star in 1998, one year after opening, which it still retains today.

Flash biography.

Nobu was born in Saitama, Japan. In 1977, he moved to Los Angeles and worked at Japanese restaurants “Mitsuwa” and “Oshou”, and in 1987, he opened his own restaurant “Matsuhisa” on La Cienega Boulevard in Beverly Hills, California. The restaurant quickly became a hot spot and was frequented

by Hollywood celebrities, including Robert De Niro, who invited Nobu to set up a restaurant in Tribeca, New York City. In August 1993, the two opened up in partnership NOBU to critical[clarification needed] acclaim. Nobu restaurants were later opened in Milan, London, Greece, Dallas, Tokyo, Honolulu, Moscow, Dubai, Mexico City, Budapest, and Hong Kong.

Nobu’s friendship with De Niro landed him a role in the 1995 Martin Scorsese film Casino, as a wealthy businessman who was a guest at De Niro’s casino. He also had small roles in Austin Powers: Goldmember, as well as Memoirs of a Geisha, where he played a kimono artist.

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Chef

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“The fine art of preparing sushi is something that you watch and learn.�

Nobu Hospitality opens its first European hotel in Shoreditch later this year.

Portrait photogrpahy: Dennis Sterne.

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It is said that Sushi is something very exclusive. It is not like a McDonald’s, not like a hot dog, not like a French fry.

It’s very high-class cooking in Japan.

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‘What I relish most is when a member of my staff, who has worked with passion and patience towards achieving their dream of owning a restaurant, walks up to me and says, ‘Nobu! I have done it!’

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La Chemise

Alexandra Wood contributes the shirt.

S

ince before the Middle Ages the shirt has existed as a piece of clothing, but then only as underwear for men or as a night gown. In the early days the shirt had neither collar nor cuffs, but a hem that could be tightened and buttoned.

And you always put it on by pulling it over your head. In the Middle Ages one could choose between fixed or detachable collar.

The garment was often made out of linen and some times silk. In the 18th century the shirt was no longer worn only as underwear, the collar grew into enormous proportions and was decorated with embroidery and lace.

Later the the collar grew back to smaller sizes again.

shirts and labour shirts. The white shirt was, until the end of the 19th century, considered to be an important attribute of prosperity.

The golden days of tailoring.

During this period of time no shirts were mass produced in factories. The well suited man bought his shirt from the tailor, just like many do today again, whilst the common man wore shirts made by his wife. For long the shirt was a garment of simple design, but in the middle of the 19th century the shirt was tailored more to the shape of the body, the fixed collar disapeared and the shirt started to show up in more colourful designs espescially as sports

The modern shirt.

Nowadays the shirt is a piece of clothing for him as well as for her even if most of the shirts are manufactured for males. The styling and design variations of modern shirts are endless.

The collar comes in many different cuts and sizes and is very sensitive to fashion fads.

The fabric used come in many qualities and constructions. That is the way it has always been. You can find shirts in various qualities in almost any store today including well assorted food stores. But a fine shirt - one that you wear with pride - you get custom made from your tailor.

The tailored shirt.

A tailor-made shirt is a valuable garment that you treat with dignity and care and you are quick to put it on as soon as you get it in your hands. And then you long for wearing it again and again. Accompanied by a suit and a tie of superb taste or casually unbuttoned together with your favourite jeans the tailor-made shirt make your outfit complete. Your are quite simply very comfortably well dressed.

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Tailoring

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Enter the current collections of ready to wear and made to meaure shirts by Alexandra Wood Bespoke Tailoribg.

Photogrphy by Dennis Sterne on iPhone SE

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Alexandra Wood expresses pure affection for tailoring.

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Modernity At the end of the World War 1 the shirt went through a major transformation.

It was only at that time the modern shirt with buttons all along the front became popular, even if the first buttoned shirt was registered by Brown, Davies & Co as early as 1871. In the 1930’s the shirt with the fixed collar revived and it has been with us ever since. Twenty years later the nylon shirt was introduced and during the same period of time the more daring short sleeve shirt became high fashion. In the 1960’s the chest pocket was introduced as a consequence of the vest under the suit jacket becoming more and more uncommon.

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KAWS and effect A new generation of art and ideas.

K

AWS, real name Brian Donnelly, is considered one of the relevant artists of his generation. Born 1974 in New Jersey and now based in Brooklyn, his instantly recognizable aesthetic has attracted a devoted following of fans all over the world. Famously medium agnostic, KAWS’ huge body of work straddles the worlds of art and design to include street art, graphic and product design, paintings, murals and large‐ scale sculptures. He made his name in the New York graffiti scene in the 1990s where he frequently tagged walls and freight trains with the letters K A W S.. He regularly exhibits in museums and galleries internationally and has found a wide audience through high-profile collaborations with industry leaders including Nike, Uniqlo, MTV, Pharrell Williams and Kanye West.

Effect KAWS’s art journey is certainly a modern template for how an underground and raw art form that is grafitti, transends and explodes into the commercial world. A commercial world of toys, music, clothing and modern art.

His influences come via contemporaries, Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Disney and Jean-

Michel Basquiat to name a few.

He reflects on how during the 90’s huge brand names claimed large parts of New York space to advertise. In a form of graffiti protest he reclaimed the spaces by hijacking the ads with his integral art. This street art trend (if you like) is a mark that many artists on ground level have adopted in recent times. A trend that has notibly had effect in terms of getting art out there for the masses to see.

What is very interesting is the subsequent embrace that some of the brands bestowed on Kaws, thereto commissioning his art message into their advertising. The effect was a blurring of lines between hijack and legitimate art incorporation.

When MTV commissioned the now synonamous cartoon skull for its award identity in 2013, it surely must have cemented any doubt that KAWS had entered mainstream pop idendity in arguably the most uncanny fashion to boot.

What does sharply come to mind is a realised and poetic metamorphis of art. Art that shouldn’t be diminished by a perception that says commercialism somehow subtracts the art itself. Afterall, Michelangelo’s commercial client was the church and Rembrandt was commission for portraiture.

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‘It’s just a combination of letters I liked. And when your whole art’s based on the lettering you choose, you kinda figure out what ones work together.

I just liked the shapes of the k, a, w, s.

It has no meaning.’

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‘As far as my opinion on galleries, I think they are a great thing .I see them as another outlet. I’m sure by now you’ve figured out that I do my work for everybody to see. That’s the whole point.’

www.buckitt.co.uk

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Regality Alexander McQueen S/S 2017

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lexander McQueen’s collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing. When it comes to tailoring, Alexander McQueen seems to have been blessed by the gods of Savile Row with the Midas touch – not to mention the ability to completely transform traditional tailoring with an exquisite attention to detail and inventive eye.

Men S/S 2017 The label stepped back from the runway to present its latest menswear collection via a series of intimate appointments and a sequence of atmospheric images photographed by Julia Hetta.

This season, the house took this trademark sensibility on a journey through the swinging 1960s streets of London and into the exotic bazaars of Empire-era India. Tradition was molded with a youthful curiosity and sense of adventure, expressed through a palette of “safari colors” and “sun-bleached leopard prints.” Ornate embellishments and Maharajaworthy bedazzlements compounded to create

a collection that mixed two very different pasts into a luxurious present of wistful irreverence.

Admire the sunflower-printed jacquards and rich gold embroidery of the Men’s Spring/ Summer 2017 and try your hardest not to get swept away.

Women S/S 2017.

Sarah Burton continues to do ‘McQueen’, and the thing about that is, no matter what feels zeitgeist-y, it still works and it still feels up-to-the-minute relevant. This is a collection that deliveres all the McQueen hallmarks, and then some; a collection that makes the more romantic houses in Paris look uptight; and other more rock ‘n’ roll houses look a bit, well, thin on the ground when it comes to ideas and execution.

Mood board: Sarah Burton looked toward Scotland’s Shetland Islands – a rough and tough yet exquisitely beautiful landscape – for her spring collection. That same duality – hard and soft, brutal yet beautiful – was on display in her clothes that mixed the romanticism of softly tiered laced dresses with the gritty edge of black leather and savage-looking carpets of jagged silver studs.

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Fashion

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‘As a designer, you’ve always got to push yourself forward; you’ve always got to keep up with the trends or make your own trends. That’s what I do.’

Follow more quotes by the late Alexander McQueen.

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‘Menswear is about subtlety.

It’s about good style and good taste.’

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‘I want to empower women.

I want people to be afraid of the women I dress.’

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I always wanted to be a designer. I read books on fashion from the age of 12.

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‘British fashion is self confident and fearless.

It refuses to bow to commerce, thus generating a constant flow of new ideas whilst drawing in British heritage.’

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Icons Style

S

It’s an intriguing notion that style is something you have or haven’t got. A gift or instinct. It’s certainly something that can be recognised through the decades and intributed the famous or infamous. Fresheye has relied on the latter to pictorialise a gallery of faces that fit an influencial accent on what we call style through the ages.

Style never goes out of fashion

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Style S is for Suave.

S

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- Fred Astaire -

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T is for Tenacious & Tantalising.

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- Elvis Presley. Marilyn Monroe -

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Y is for Yesteryear and Youthful.

y

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- Miles Davis. Audrey Hepburn -

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L is for Luscious and Lofty.

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- Sophia Loren. 60s James Bond -

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E is for Explosive and Elegant.

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e

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- Al Capone. Twiggy -

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& is for Style & Fashion.

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- Karl Lagerfeld. Coco Chanel -

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I is for Ill and Ignite.

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I

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- The Beastie Boys. Grace Jones -

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C is for Curvy and Contemporary.

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- Madonna. Michael Jackson -

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O is for Optimist and Opulent.

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- David Beckham. Victoria Beckham -

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N is for Nonchalant and Negligee.

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- Iris Apfel. Dita Von Teese -

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S is for Sophisticated and Sassy.

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- Noughties James Bond. Lady Gaga -

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. is for fashion full stop.

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- Ralph Lauren. Jean Paul Gaultier -

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Leica M-P (Typ 240) The Digital Rangefinder camera system.

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Product

Leica released its first digital rangefinder camera, the Leica M8, in 2006

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ased on the otherwise identical Leica M, the Leica M-P offers all the technical advantages of the Leica M-System and several additional features, for example an enlarged buffer memory. The ‘P’ in the name of this camera indicates the particularly discreet and enduring design concept with which the Leica M-P joins the line of Leica M-Cameras conceived especially to fulfil the needs of professional photographers.

The buffer memory capacity of the Leica M-P has been increased to 2 GB – twice the size of that of the Leica M. In terms of design, the Leica M-P is based on the typical characteristics of the Leica rangefinder system and focuses in particular on robustness and a long product lifespan. The use of an extremely scratch-resistant sapphire crystal cover for its LCD monitor is one example of this. This material is so hard that it can only be worked with special diamond cutting tools and is one of the world’s hardest materials.

The unobtrusive and minimalistic look of the Leica M-P provides even greater discretion in decisive shooting situations.

Other new details of the camera include a frame selection lever with which bright-line frames for six different focal lengths can be projected into the viewfinder to simulate subject framing. The corresponding frames are shown in pairs for the focal lengths 28 and 90 mm, 35 and 135 mm or 50 and 75 mm. This avoids the need to change lenses to assess suitable subject framing, offers greater creative freedom and allows photographers to concentrate fully on composing their pictures.

What is a range finder camera?

A rangefinder camera is a camera fitted with a range-finding focusing mechanism allowing the photographer to measure the subject distance and take photographs that are in sharp focus.

PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS l 24MP Leica MAX Full-Frame CMOS Sensor l Leica Maestro Image Processor l Rangefinder with Image Field Selector l 0.68x Optical Viewfinder Magnification l 3.0” 920k-Dot LCD with Sapphire Glass l Full HD 1080p Video Recording l ISO 6400, 3 fps Shooting for 24 Frames l Compatible with M-Mount Lenses l Magnesium Alloy Body and Brass Top Plate l Classic Appearance without Red Leica Dot

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Product

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Luna 360 See the world like a fly.

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his is Lunar, the world’s smallest 360 degree camera. Capture everything around you in one shot with Luna, the world’s smallest 360° camera.

Designed to be easily used by everyone, this camera is operated with a single button.

It’s equipped with two 190° fish eye lenses to cover the entire world around you. With no moving parts, Luna is safe to use as well as waterproof. The gryo-stabilization automatically levels the image to capture crystal clear photos and videos. Using the built in Wi-Fi, you can get a live preview of the footage right on your device. You can also save and share the media instantly. At just 6cm across, Luna travels well and is easy to place anywhere for the perfect shot. Choose to record in flat, sphere, VR, or planet modes for any situation.

Sphere View Picture Sensor: 5MP x 2 360 Recording Mode 4000 Lens 1080p 30fps 360 Video 4000 Lens 2000 Photo 360 Photo 360 Streaming Mode Portocal: RTSP Bitrate: 1Mbps VR SUPPORT VR Online Player enabled: YouTube, Facebook, LittlStar

SPECIFICATIONS Size and weight Measurements: 2.54 inch (64.5 mm) distance across, round Weight: < 150g Optics View: Fish eye Lenses 190 FOV x 2 = 360 Full

At 170g/6oz and 6cm/2.36in breadth it’s nearby in size and weight to a pool ball.

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Princess to Queen

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Icon, cult figure, Carrie Fisher.

ctress Carrie Fisher, whose grit and wit made “Star Wars’” Princess Leia an iconic and beloved figure to millions of moviegoers, died Tuesday December 27 2016 in Los Angeles.

She was 60. The actress and advocate, who got her start in Hollywood as a seductive teen in the 1975 film “Shampoo,” was the daughter of screen legend Debbie Reynolds and singer Eddie Fisher.

She beat out the likes of Jodie Foster and Amy Irving for the part of Leia in George Lucas’ original 1977 “Star Wars.” Her toughas-nails princess was strong and independent and the role positioned Fisher in the decades that followed as something of a feminist icon.

But her biggest break as an actress came just a few years after she dropped out of high school to appear alongside her mother on Broadway.

Star Wars The film became a blockbuster. Box Office Mojo ranks it as the second highest-grossing movie of all time after adjusting for inflation, behind “Gone With the Wind” -- and turned Fisher into an overnight star.

Fisher went on to appear in 1980’s “The Empire Strikes Back” and 1983’s “Return of the Jedi.” She drew almost as much attention

for Leia’s hair and wardrobe as she did for her performances in the movies. Her character wore her brown hair in two enormous swirly buns over her ears, and donned a revealing metal bikini as Jabba the Hutt’s captive in “Return of the Jedi.”

Celebrity tributes Tributes poured out from her fellow members of the “Star Wars” universe.

“Carrie was one-of-a-kind...brilliant, original,” co-star Harrison Ford said in a statement. “Funny and emotionally fearless.

She lived her life, bravely... My thoughts are with her daughter Billie, her mother Debbie, her brother Todd, and her many friends. We will all miss her.”

Skywalker Ranch spokeswoman Connie Wethington issued this statement from “Star Wars” creator George Lucas: “Carrie and I had been friends most of our adult lives. She was extremely smart; a talented actress, writer and comedienne with a very colorful personality that everyone loved. In ‘Star Wars’ she was our great and powerful princess - feisty, wise and full of hope in a role that was more difficult than most people might think.”

Co-star Mark Hamill tweeted: “No words #Devastated.”

From screen princess to iconic queen.

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“I was trained in celebrity, so I did the only thing I knew,” Fisher once told Rolling Stone. “I went into the family business.”

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iPhone 6s Campaign. Photographer - Jirasak Panpiansin, Chaiyaphum Province, Thailand.