l Masda
fresh eye
Vivienne Westwood l Shopping l Fashion l Photography l Tech l
Magazine
Glorious edition Issue 38. February 2020 Lifestyle Photography Culture
www.dior.com
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l Harmony
Underwater photography.
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Contents 72
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Jean Paul Gaultier retires.
Making luxury premium.
Soft cheese experience.
l Finale
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l Luxury
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l Human
headphones New tech.
l Family ties
Social health.
l Love Whisky
Satisfying spirit. l Vivienne Westwood
A designer study. l Masda RX-9
Concept sportscar. l Gotta have it!
Shopping selection. l Carbon Footprint
Carbon fibre expressed.
Sponsored by
l Vacherin
Cover: Image from the Harmony series by photographer Christy Lee Rogers
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Family ties - the health
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amily and love are the two main components in life which are free but which are crucial to contentment and happiness. Loneliness is a huge problem in our modern times, which has a knock on effect on peoples’ health who are suffering. Social interconnection and love are so important as loneliness doesn’t discriminate, the elderly suffer when loved ones are no longer around, and younger people suffer when they don’t have the support they need. And that’s where family comes into the equation. The definition of family is one that seems to change with the times, but it usually includes a group of people who are related to each other and have lived together for some period of their lives. Like many social relationships, strong bonds with family members can have great benefits for individuals and society. Family also improves overall well-being as over many years, research consistently highlights that kids who grow up living with their biological, married parents have better overall well-being than kids who are living in a different scenario. However in the modern
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At the heart is family.
times we live in, the ‘perfect’ family scenario doesn’t always exist. But it all really comes down to people spending quality time together and having security and an emotionally stable environment to live in. Stress is a huge factor in our day to day lives, and having family provides a sense of relief for
Family
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Sophie says.....
thy option many, as we know we aren’t alone. Family ties have been shown to provide stress relief by boosting self-esteem and lessening anxiety in many individuals. This strong bond can act as a sort of protective shield and offers a sense of belonging and security. Another aspect of family life which is important and beneficial, is family meal time. It can help contribute to a healthier diet and family lifestyle, as healthy food choices create a foundation that can last up to five years later for teens. Family members such as grandparents who may find themselves eating alone, are more likely to skip meals and eat foods with decreased nutritional values, so family meal-time is important in every generation. The benefits of family are vast and a recent review of research shows that family
by Sophie Fitzjohn.
Bring the family together.
interactions help prevents crime. It’s said that prisoners who are visited by family members have a 40 percent lower chance of becoming a repeat criminal than those who receive no family visits. Unconditionally supportive relationships in great times of need or change can help people get through difficult times more effectively. Those who have made bad choices or have been through tough times and continue to receive emotional support from family, maintain a sense of worth and have something in life to keep them motivated and focused, which can be a life line for some. Early family bonds are so important as they help regulate emotions, as children who experience healthy family relationships at a young age show more control and regulation of their emotions when they’re older. Healthy family bonds and relationships give people a sense of belonging and help keep everyone balanced in life. Family are there to enhance our lives in as many ways as possible.
“You don’t choose your family. They are God’s gift to you, as you are to them.” Desmond Tutu
“Family is the most important thing in the world.” Princess Diana
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Love whisky Keeping your spirit satisfied by Dennis Sterne.
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ove it or hate it, whisky will endeavor for its appreciated history and uniqueness. As much as gin is enjoyed by many, whisky stands outside beverage fashions. Like some foods, it can be an acquired taste as the palette matures and favoures deeper, stronger and bolder notes. How to taste The best way to savour its flavour is the sip and hold in the mouth for around 5/6 seconds before you swallow. For even more relaxed appreciation, try a little longer. Allow flowing over and underneath the tongue. This process allows the flavour to precede the alcohol intensity. I discovered this technique at a whisky tasting gathering at The Arts Club, Dover St London. Which I can say made for
a memorable drinking experience, due to the elegant and relaxed club environment. It makes well for you to consider how you enjoy dining/tasting. I suggest a quieter, visually stimulating and unhurried situation. Needless to say that this will amplify your experience and increase your awareness for taste. See YouTube whisky review vloggers for some inspiration into tasting whisky you may not have tried. My personal favourite is Ralphystuff. This guy knows his whisky and needless to point out that he is Scottish. *Wisky brand tips: Why not try some of my personal favourites. Balvenie - as featured, probably one of the most enjoyable for me. Other key notables brands are, Glenfiddich, Royal Salute, Johnny Walker and Jura. Seek out and enjoy!
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Spirits
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Enjoying the simple things in life is a step toward contentment. Photography - Dennis Sterne
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Designer Brand Study
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ame Vivienne Isabel Westwood DBE RDI is a British fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream. Westwood came to public notice when she made clothes for Malcolm McLaren’s boutique in the King’s Road, which became known as “SEX” Evolution Westwood was one of the architects of the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, saying “I was messianic about punk, seeing if
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one could put a spoke in the system in some way”. Westwood went on to open four shops in London, eventually expanding throughout the United Kingdom and the world, selling an increasingly varied range of merchandise, some of it linked to her many political causes such as the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament, climate change and civil rights groups. Westwood often let’s her clothes speak for themselves, as independent designs and as her own statements of culture. This idea that she uses her clothing as a statement of her own is a motif consistent throughout her time as a designer.
Fashion
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- Vivienne Westwood Westwood moved to London in 1958 at the age of 17, to study at the Harrow School of Art.
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Above: Vivienne Westwood costume designs for the Vienna New Year’s Concert 2014 Above right: Vivienne Westwood closing show at Paris Fashion Week 2007
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Fashion brand on stage.
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Above: Naomi Campbell models Vivienne Westwood 1994. Above middle: Eva Herzigova on the runway Fall 1995 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. Pink tarten handbag. Above right: Kate Moss models Vivienne Westwood at Spring Show 1996. Right: Westwood was awarded an OBE in 1992. And in 2006, she was honored as DBE for outstanding service for fashion during the New Year’s Honours List. Black and Champagne tote handbag.
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A theatrical story...
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Above top: Vivienne Westwood Boudoir perfume line. Above: Naomi Campbell’s iconic fall on the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood s/s 1993 in Paris. Above middle: Vivienne Westwood in iconic ‘God save the Queen’ punk look. Above right: Autumn/Winter 201415 Campaign featuring Vivienne Westwood. Right: Vivienne Westwood necklace jewellery orb.
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An ecclectic mix.
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Note: Vivienne Westwood’s designs are a reaction against traditional British standards of morality-against petty bourgeois notions of etiquette and propriety. Since her early street stylebased collaborations with McLaren, Westwood has defied the ideal of polite, anonymous clothes that express the wearer’s ascribed social status. She seeks to transcend definitions of class, gender, ethnicity, and sexual orientation and create outfits that are dramatic-that encourage wearers to carry themselves confidently. Westwood is a utopian.
Above left: Vivienne Westwood Fall Winter 2014-Campaign.
Fashion
Above: Vivienne Westwood Couture 2016. Above right: Christy Turlington walking the Vivienne Westwood show s/s 1993. Right: Vivienne Westwood Biography.
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A broad fashion spectrum.
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Fashion Above: Vivienne Westwood midnight tartan wool suit. Above right: George Clooney for Save the Arctic Campaigne. Overall, an eclectic mix of 60 celebrities have backed the cause, including Rira Ora, Pierce Brosnan, Ozzy Osbourne, Kylie Minogue, Hugh Grant, Julie Walters and Pamela Anderson.
Left: Vivienne Westwood with ex late husband Malcom Maclaren - (19462010), British fashion designer (of sorts) and manager of the Sex Pistols. Above left: Vivienne Eestwood mens autumn fall winter 2013.
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Campaign & Tartan
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Shark like RX-9 A modern-day rotary-engined Mazda sports car is looking more likely than ever.
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Vission RX-9 has long been rumoured, with 2015’s RXVision concept thought to mark the Japanese car maker’s intentions to launch a rangetopping sports car powered by a rotary engine. No such car has yet appeared, but the revival of Mazda’s rotary engine to aid electrification means the case for an RX-9 becomes much more persuasive. While the car is not officially confirmed, Mazda recently filed a chassis design patent for a spaceframe-like structure that hosts features most common to a sports car. These include a double-wishbone front suspension and a relatively small engine bay – which would be ideal for a compact rotary motor – as well as lightweight carbonfibre-reinforced plastic and aluminium components applied throughout the structure. A low and wide body, short overhangs and taut cabin make the model immediately recognizable as a sports car. These elements combine with the low overall height and
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incredibly low hood made possible by the compact and lightweight next-generation SKYACTIV-R rotary engine to create truly one-of-a-kind proportions. One-of-a-kind FR proportions born of KODO design and the rotary engine RX-VISION adopts the beautiful proportions of an FR sports car as could only be envisioned by Mazda. The styling is modern but maintains a sense of lineage and authenticity, encapsulating Mazda’s entire history of sports car design. The design aim was to shave away all but the essentials and give birth to the dynamic tension and ambience of a machine that is all business. The fine craftsmanship of Mazda’s renowned clay modelers creates reflections that convey motion and thereby capture the spirit of the KODO design language without relying on character lines or other such elements. It is an elegant and highly vital form that changes expression with the slightest change of viewing angle.
Concept sportscar
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The Japanese brand has a long history of producing rotary-engined cars but hasn’t had one in its line-up since the RX-8 went out of production in 2012.
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For the interior, the design team pursued an ultimately simple yet powerful image, while fusing it with the tactile feel of handcrafted work and a sophisticated mechanical expression. Intricate instruments give the cockpit a true machine appeal.
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The Mazda RX-9 is rumored to be slated for release in 2022.
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www.buckitt.co.uk
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Gotta have it! fresh eye
Product DIONE ice cream has been recongnised with a number of international awards given by Michelin-starred Chefs, nutritionists and dietitians.
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DIONE doesn’t contain any preservatives, artificial colours and flavours, dairy stabilizers and gluten.
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Product Above: Discover classic Tiffany&Co solitaire rings ready for engraving, bold cocktail styles or create your own ring stack with delicate bands. Above right: Sony MDR 2019 Crystal Embellished Leather Mules.
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Refinement in jewellery and headphones.
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Product Above: The iconic Dior Saddle bag has been reinvented in two sizes with leather, Dior Oblique canvas and embroidery versions available. Above right: Nike MAG Back to the Future. Right: Prada robot pendant.
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Indulge your fashion brand collectable whim.
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Carbon Footprint Carbon fiber was first invented near Cleveland, Ohio, in 1958. It wasn’t until a new manufacturing process was developed at a British research center in 1963 that carbon fiber’s strength potential was realized.
Sponsored by
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Carbon Fibre
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Carbon Champagne www.modedeviecarbon.com
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Big Bang All Carbon www.hublot.com
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Guitar & Adidas footwear.
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Apollo-intensa-emozione carbon fibre chase.
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Apple Watch & Wine Holder.
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Fashioned fabric.
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Jewellery insert.
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My love
of fashion...
The end of an era Retirement after 50 fashion years by Dennis Sterne.
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wouldn’t just say it to embellish a fashion feature. But, Jean Paul Gaultier is quite simply my favourite fashion designer of this modern era. Sad news indeed for me to learn that this fashion genius decided to put away the fashion dummies and put his creative fashion mind to rest. Goodness knows how such a creative mind will halt the creative process. I suspect Gaultier will still be creating, albeit it on a smaller scale and a lesser media scale if I’m to speculate. In 1982, he founded his eponymous fashion label. From 2003 to 2010 he also served as the creative director at French luxury house Hermès for womenswear. He co-presented the television series Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. It was his maternal grandmother, Marie Garage, who introduced him to the world of fashion. He never received formal training as a
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designer. Instead, he began to send sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970. Then he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later that year again worked for Cardin managing the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila for a year until 1974. His first individual collection was released in 1976, and his characteristic irreverent style dating from 1981 has led to his being known as the enfant terrible of French fashion. Many of Gaultier’s subsequent collections have been based on streetwear, focusing on popular culture, whereas others, particularly his haute couture collections, are very formal, yet at the same time unusual and playful. Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010, where he succeeded Martin Margiela. He is also well known for sponsoring the u 2003–04 exhibit in the Costume Institute
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A celebration of the Jean Paul Gaultier’s work, marking his final couture show.
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of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art entitled “Braveheart: Men in Skirts,” which showed designs by Dries van Noten, Vivienne Westwood, and Rudi Gernreich in addition to Gaultier’s to examine “designers and individuals who have appropriated the skirt as a means of injecting novelty into male fashion, as a means of transgressing moral and social codes, and as a means of redefining an ideal masculinity. Gaultier produced sculptured costumes for Madonna during the nineties, starting with her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour, and designed the wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour.
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Final Couture Show After 50 years on the catwalk, Gaultier presented his final haute couture collection in Paris 22/1/20, celebrating his label with a huge party on the runway, which saw A-list models including Bella and Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Irina Shayk in attendance. The collection was as fun and eccentric as ever with his trademark nautical-inspired looks, plenty of sheer tulle and bodices galore. It also featured 700,000 Swarovski crystals bedazzling the looks. The show played out like a round-up of the designer’s greatest hits. Using mostly upcycled materials, the designer referenced his most famous collections. From coquettish sailor pieces modelled by the likes of Gigi Hadid and a Madonna-esque cone bra sported by Irina Shayk, to a succession of breastplates, and pieces made entirely from silk ties, the looks that made the designer famous were all there.
fresh eye
Fashion Finale Although Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture will continue in some capacity (under a new concept, which is yet to be announced), this marks the designer’s official retirement from the world of fashion.
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Renowned for his provocative designs, extravagant shows, and general joie de vivre, Jean Paul Gualtier riegns supreme.
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Luxury
Above: Bardot ice cream, ‘the world’s sexiest confection: the most decadent gelato robed in graphic fantasy’. Right: Gourmet burger Far right: The ‘Tesco Finest’ logo used to define their premium products.
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Premiumisation Blurring the lines of luxury consumption.
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hough luxury is still inherently rarefied, today our desire for it has become unrestrained. Meaning that, even in tough economic times, when value may dictate many purchases, we have continued to seek lesser or inexpensive ways to experience it. And this has created a new niche – and a ‘mass’ desire – for ‘premiumised’ products. Whilst luxury is still the pinnacle, the gap has now dramatically closed. We expect luxury and special moments every day and by creating this bridge between the standards of the luxury world and the mass market we can now experience privilege at differing price points, making the luxury effect accessible to all. Premiumisation has made the impossible dream possible. Food is one sector that has seen a phenomenal shift when it comes to quality and perception – and one where premiumisation is probably the most prolific and pronounced. Concept The benchmark was initially set in 1998 when Tesco’s Finest range created a pivotal moment for premiumisation within massmarket food. It succinctly used luxury’s visual
language – black, silver, emotive language, refined and stylized photography – in a way which continues to be emulated today by its competitors as shorthand for a higher quality experience. Expressions of premiumisation are now evolving from this established handwriting to new and more individual rhetoric. And it is worth comparing and contrasting a notable few to show the scope of the luxury influence and ideals – and to identify just where a new and more disruptive approach and evolution may be leading – or indeed narrowing – the field for the premium and luxury landscape overall. Ask anyone to name examples of premiumisation – particularly when it comes to brand and designer collaborations – and I’m sure they would probably be able to name dozens. The list is now endless…and this is the sticking point. This initiative has become so prolific and so abused that there needs to be a very good reason to now embrace this route. Only the very original or very best are in a position to borrow the true traits of luxury or differentiate themselves to create new limits of desirability in this way.
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Underwater Renaissance Photographer Christy Lee Rogers shoots under water to create photographic works that push the possibilities of movement, color and light. A vision of an underwater world.
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Photography
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Christy Lee Rogers is an American underwater, fine art photographer and filmmaker. Growing up along the coast of the Pacific Ocean, her inspiration was always anchored in her native element -water.
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Photographer Christy Lee Rogers produces luminous scenes of swirling figures swathed in colorful fabrics. She creates a painterly quality in her large-scale images not by
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using wet pigments, but rather by completely submerging her subjects in illuminated water and photographing them at night.
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The works shown here are part of Rogers’ most recent series, titled ‘Muses’, which were in response to a year of personal loss. She shared in an interview
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that “these final images represent a soft and peaceful place that I imagine exists, where you can be free to let go and experience the beauty surrounding you.�
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Rogers grew up in Hawaii and continues to shoot there, though she now lives in Nashville. Her works are exhibited widely, alongside video installations.
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By incorporating and studying nontraditional elements such as the relationship between movement, color, water and light, Rogers is capable of transforming and manipulating the artistic medium into an ecology of emotions.
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Rogers spends anywhere from weeks to months preparing for her underwater shoots. From sketching to making notes on character, color, props, emotions and themes.
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Rogers was commissioned in 2019 by Apple to create multiple images using the new iPhone 11pro.
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Rogers shoots in swimming pools at night, working with her models in two-to four-hour sessions. The effects in her images are created naturally in-camera using the refraction of light and movement in different depths of water.
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As a photographer, she places a large importance on movement, drama, individual figures, light and shadow, and the sense of something greater than oneself.
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Water, in which light travels slower than in the air, creates a higher optical density. Using this effect, and also by moving layers of the water,
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the artist produces dream-like illusions, intensifying the colors, and blurring and blending the portrayed subjects.
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You can see more from Rogers on Facebook and Vimeo.
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Water not only played a dominant role in Rogers’ childhood, but also formed the basis of her art practice. www.christyleerogers.com
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14/2/20
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OMG!
Human Headphones fresheye get’s excited at new tech that really raises the bar.
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Tech
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What’s not to like? The headphones even include a language translation function offering real-time translation in 11 languages, and can work as a Bluetooth speaker by simply snapping the two earpieces together.
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Notes: 3 in 1 design includes over-theear quality with the convenience of ear-buds that snaps into a portable Bluetooth speaker. Design offers ultra-secure fit and the style to wear throughout the day. Intuitive touch and voice controls let you immerse yourself in a seamless audio experience. Allows you quick and easy access to your phone’s native digital assistant. Make calls and send texts with a simple touch. Accurately captures your voice, not the noise around you.
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The outside of the ear-shells has capacitive touch controls for skipping tracks, accepting incoming calls, and adjusting the volume just by using a fingertip.
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Note: Eyes up. Ears open. Blend mode activates the external microphones letting you listen to both your music and amplify the world around you. Translate up to 11 languages in Headphone Mode. Translate mode lets you converse in multiple languages with individuals and in larger groups.
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Extended Wireless Range Bluetooth architecture supports connectivity over 100+ ft.
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Notes: Dual 280mAh Batteries. Up to 9 hours of continuous life on a single charge and charging while you use in speaker mode. Blend - Stay aware of the world around you by bringing in ambient sound.
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Four of the built-in mics are beamforming and can be used for making phone calls. They can triangulate on the origins of the speaker’s voice for clarity. www.humanheadphones.com
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Flex Tech
Right: Luxurious iPhone Z Concept Boasts Tri-Fold Design with a 10.4″ Display and 90 Diamonds
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And... Flex! Off the hinge luxury - the Caviar way.
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he class of Grand Complications watches is the absolute elite of the watch world, where there’s the rule: the more complicated, the better! Caviar decided to borrow this principle and transfer it to the dimension of the world of the modern smartphones and literally “complicated” iPhone XS with a watch mechanism! Now you have at your disposal not only a modern smartphone that has nothing impossible in the technological area, but also a precise skeleton watch that glamorously complement the grandiose panel of decorative gears covered with gold on the back side of the body. The canonical combination of black and gold is a classical story about success, business, style and elegance. The design of this smartphone will perfectly fit into your noble and moderate style. Now you’ll be able to answer to the question: What time is it?” by throwing your eye on any sice of your smartphone! The innovations and classic of the great watch art made a step towards each other and this meeting is impressive!
Phone Body: The body is decorated with the engraved blackened titanium and engraved decorative gears (gold covering according to the technology Double Electroplated) and the inserts of composite onyx. Plate: Customized Caviar plate. Gold covering. Body and buttons: Customized Caviar plate. Gold covering.
Mechanism Based on ETA Unitas 6498-1 modified mechanics with a manual winding, 17 stones, makes 18 000 vibrations per hour, the power reserve is 30 hours. The mechanism is esthetically improved by Caviar masters: the platinum is decorated with manual engine-turning with the pattern “baroque curls”; the mechanism elements are covered with the double gold covering Double Electroplating (999-gold content, 7 microns). The skeletonized format allows viewing the work of the entire mechanism.
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The soft cheese factor Dive into the extracts from nature.
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he history of making Vacherin dates back to around 200 years, but only since 1981, it has been controlled officially. Swiss people call this soft, washed-rind cheese as Vacherin du Mont d’Or, in France it is called Vacherin du Haut Doubs (or just Vacherin in local shops). Vacherin is made from pasteurised cow’s milk, which offers a full-flavoured and slightly acidic taste. The cheese becomes almost liquid after maturation. It has a greyish-yellow blanched rind which has to be removed before eating it. This rare and luxury cheese is eaten like a Fondue. Vacherin is produced only from 15th August to 31st March. The cheese tastes delicious with wines such as Beaujolais Nouveau, Côtes du Jura and Champagne. It comes in various shapes enclosed with a strip of spruce bark. A firmer Swiss cheese, is called Vacherin Fribourgeois. It is produced under Swiss AOC in the Fribourg canton, where Gruyère also originates.
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Cheese
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In Paris, they bake Vacherin Mont d’Or, but, in the Jura, where the cheese comes from, they just spoon it straight from the box and enjoy the rich, voluptuous texture and full fruity flavour.
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