Fresheye Magazine. February Edition 2021

l Aston

fresh eye

Magazine

Martin l Tomo Koizumi l Shopping l Fashion l Art l Airpods Max

Fashion edition Issue 62. February 2021 Lifestyle Photography Culture

www.dior.com

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l Art in

fashion Bringing on the art as inspiration.

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Contents 72

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Fashion design in philosophy.

Making luxury premium.

Soft cheese experience.

l Alber Elbaz

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l Luxury

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l Airpod Max

New headphone tech

l Family ties

Social health.

l Love Whisky

Satisfying spirit. l Tomo Koizumi

A designer study.

l Aston Martin DBX

Super SUV dreams. l Gotta have it!

Shopping selection. l Connor Brothers

New wave artists.

Sponsored by

l Vacherin

Cover: Tomo Koizumi RTW Spring 21

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Family ties - the health

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amily and love are the two main components in life which are free but which are crucial to contentment and happiness. Loneliness is a huge problem in our modern times, which has a knock on effect on peoples’ health who are suffering. Social interconnection and love are so important as loneliness doesn’t discriminate, the elderly suffer when loved ones are no longer around, and younger people suffer when they don’t have the support they need. And that’s where family comes into the equation.

The definition of family is one that seems to change with the times, but it usually includes a group of people who are related to each other and have lived together for some period of their lives. Like many social relationships, strong bonds with family members can have great benefits for individuals and society.

Family also improves overall well-being as over many years, research consistently highlights that kids who grow up living with their biological, married parents have better overall well-being than kids who are living in a different scenario. However in the modern

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At the heart is family.

times we live in, the ‘perfect’ family scenario doesn’t always exist. But it all really comes down to people spending quality time together and having security and an emotionally stable environment to live in.

Stress is a huge factor in our day to day lives, and having family provides a sense of relief for

Family

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Sophie says.....

thy option many, as we know we aren’t alone. Family ties have been shown to provide stress relief by boosting self-esteem and lessening anxiety in many individuals. This strong bond can act as a sort of protective shield and offers a sense of belonging and security.

Another aspect of family life which is important and beneficial, is family meal time. It can help contribute to a healthier diet and family lifestyle, as healthy food choices create a foundation that can last up to five years later for teens.

Family members such as grandparents who may find themselves eating alone, are more likely to skip meals and eat foods with decreased nutritional values, so family meal-time is important in every generation.

The benefits of family are vast and a recent review of research shows that family

by Sophie Fitzjohn.

Bring the family together.

interactions help prevents crime. It’s said that prisoners who are visited by family members have a 40 percent lower chance of becoming a repeat criminal than those who receive no family visits. Unconditionally supportive relationships in great times of need or change can help people get through difficult times more effectively.

Those who have made bad choices or have been through tough times and continue to receive emotional support from family, maintain a sense of worth and have something in life to keep them motivated and focused, which can be a life line for some.

Early family bonds are so important as they help regulate emotions, as children who experience healthy family relationships at a young age show more control and regulation of their emotions when they’re older. Healthy family bonds and relationships give people a sense of belonging and help keep everyone balanced in life. Family are there to enhance our lives in as many ways as possible.

“You don’t choose your family. They are God’s gift to you, as you are to them.”

Desmond Tutu

“Family is the most important thing in the world.”

Princess Diana

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Love whisky Keeping your spirit satisfied by Dennis Sterne.

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ove it or hate it, whisky will endeavor for its appreciated history and uniqueness. As much as gin is enjoyed by many, whisky stands outside beverage fashions.

Like some foods, it can be an acquired taste as the palette matures and favoures deeper, stronger and bolder notes.

How to taste The best way to savour its flavour is the sip and hold in the mouth for around 5/6 seconds before you swallow. For even more relaxed appreciation, try a little longer. Allow flowing over and underneath the tongue. This process allows the flavour to precede the alcohol intensity. I discovered this technique at a whisky tasting gathering at The Arts Club, Dover St London. Which I can say made for

a memorable drinking experience, due to the elegant and relaxed club environment. It makes well for you to consider how you enjoy dining/tasting. I suggest a quieter, visually stimulating and unhurried situation. Needless to say that this will amplify your experience and increase your awareness for taste.

See YouTube whisky review vloggers for some inspiration into tasting whisky you may not have tried. My personal favourite is Ralphystuff. This guy knows his whisky and needless to point out that he is Scottish. *Wisky brand tips: Why not try some of my personal favourites.

Balvenie - as featured, probably one of the most enjoyable for me. Other key notables brands are, Glenfiddich, Royal Salute, Johnny Walker and Jura. Seek out and enjoy!

Sponsored by

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Spirits

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Enjoying the simple things in life is a step toward contentment.

Photography - Dennis Sterne

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Fashion Designer Study

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omo Koizumi (below) is a Japanese designer. With no professional training, Koizumi began experimenting with design at a young age when he created custom made garments for his female friends.

His moment came when Sara Maino, an editor of Vogue Italia posted an image of his work on Instagram. The image caught the attention of British designer Giles Deacon who showed it to stylist Katie Grand. Koizumi was invited to show his clothes at Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store at New York Fashion Week during the A/W 19 fashion season.

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Koizumi is known for his hand-sewn, voluminous, ruffled dresses, made from Japanese polyester. His work has featured in publications including Eyescream, WWD Japan and Nylon Japan. In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art showcased his designs in the Camp: Notes on Fashion exhibition. He was shortlisted for the 2020 LMVH prize.

Handwriting Ruffles have always been a sign of exuberance.

In Elizabethan times, the decorative collar was a signifier of wealth and status.

Fashion Inspiration “One day when I was about 14, I found the book, John Galliano for Dior, in a shop in Tokyo. I remember how amazed I was because these designs were like nothing I had seen before. I fell in love with them and that’s when I decided to be a designer. I wanted to make something as beautiful as that. But fashion is what I make, not what I wear. My clothes, they get damaged and torn when I am working, so ‘easy’ is always best.”

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- Tomo Koizumi “My dreams are coming true, and I want to follow them.�

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Quote: “I feel like I’m half in the fashion industry and half in the entertainment industry,” he admits. “Working in the fashion industry means you eventually must think commercially so you can sell something, but I would still like to make something to entertain people. People suggest that I try to be more commercial because I’m hot now. I’m not ready for that. Maybe next year.

I don’t want to be rushed by something I don’t need or care about. Right now.”

Fashion Ruffles Ruffles have always been a sign of exuberance in fashion.

In Elizabethan times, the decorative collar was a signifier of wealth and status: the larger your ruff, the bigger the statement you were making about your material possessions, power and authority. The “cartwheel ruff”, for example, which was popular at the end of the 16th century, often comprised 600 pleats crafted from around six metres of luxurious lace.

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Big dreams, bigger dresses.

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Intrigue: While Koizumi has received undeniable support in building his career, he runs a lean operation in his home studio in Tokyo: just one assistant and a few interns. “I collaborate for the shows and photoshoots, but not when it comes to developing my brand,” he says. “I still have to think about that by myself.” And despite the global fame his craft has brought him in the past year - including a slew of glowing magazine profiles and a coveted spot at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2019 summer exhibition ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’ - he has yet to gain the attention of the media or commercial retailers in his own country.

Fashion

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Koizumi draws inspiration from his homeland, including traditional Japanese Kabuki theatre, robots and manga series Sailor Moon.

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Fashion note: The self-taught designer says he has no plans to reinvent the radiant ruffles that put him on the map; in fact, with only seven looks compared to last season’s 28, his spring/summer 2020 collection allowed him to deepdive into the art of his craft. “I wanted to make even bigger pieces than the last collection,” says Koizumi, who first became interested in fashion at 14 years old after discovering John Galliano’s work for Christian Dior.

He would later study fine art in his hometown of Chiba, about 25 miles southeast of Tokyo.

Fashion

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Koizumi became the toast of New York Fashion Week S/S 2020.

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Note: The Japanese designer was the breakout star at the Autumn/Winter 2019 shows in New York, supported by the likes of Katie Grand and Marc Jacobs.

Love magazine’s editor-in-chief Katie Grand discovered Tomo Koizumi through British designer Giles Deacon on Instagram. Born in Japan in 1988, Koizumi studied an arts major at the National Chiba University, during which time he launched his namesake brand, and graduated in 2012. While working as a costume designer, Lady Gaga wore one of his designs on a visit to Tokyo in 2016.

Fashion

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The designer has taken over a showroom inside the Marc Jacobs headquarters in New York.

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Fashion Exposure: Following his debut, Koizumi’s work has featured in international editions of Vogue, Love, V and WWD. He has also dressed Miley Cyrus and was commissioned by the actress and singer Miriam Yeung for her world tour. In 2019, Thailand-based fashion editor and entrepreneur Nichapat Sop Hap wore one of Koizumi’s designs to the Met Gala.

Triumph Koizumi’s runway debut proved to be a much-needed tonic to NYFW’s even-keeled expectations and a solid argument against those who claim that fashion shows have become obsolete.

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Stylist Katie Grand and designer Giles Deacon altered his path by sliding into his Instagram DMs.

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SUV Dreaming Beautiful is a relentless Aston Martin.

New Aston Martin DBX is here...

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he very concept of an Aston SUV may feel oxymoronic but SUVs sell, particularly luxury SUVs – the Cullinan underpins Rolls-Royce’s contemporary range, and more than half the Bentleys sold last year were Bentayga 4x4s.

Are you actually meant to off-road in it?

Few will, but that won’t be because the car can’t. On loose, slippery surfaces the DBX’s intrinsic rightness – the high driving position and slim pillars make for excellent visibility, while the keen, direct steering (2.6 turns lock to lock) and rear-biased powertrain build driver confidence – make it as engaging off tarmac as it is on it.

Put aside your feelings on fast, luxury SUVs and applaud the DBX for what it is – a briefnailing modern masterpiece that’s somehow both a consummate family car (practical, comfortable, spacious, quiet) and absolutely an Aston Martin. Full of character and more engaging to drive than we ever dared dream, rather than tainting the badge it wears the DBX actually makes it shine all the brighter.

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An Exclusive Architecture DBX sits on an all-new platform designed exclusively for our SUV. Like all core Aston Martin models, DBX is crafted from aluminium that’s bonded not just for strength and toughness, but ultra-lightweight too.

Iconic Engineering Aston Martin never compromise in the engineering principles that govern the way all our cars ride and handle, and DBX is no exception. Like all our production sports and GT cars, DBX has double wishbone front suspension combined with a multi-link rear axle, as well as electronic adaptive damping for every wheel.

First of its kind DBX is the first Aston Martin to use all round air suspension ensuring both outstanding ride comfort and dynamic control. The system allows the ride height to change by up to 95mm from lowest to highest setting; raised to negotiate difficult terrain or lowered to provide easy access and loading.

Aston Martin DBX

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DBX, is a new kind of Aston Martin, one founded on the principles of beauty, luxury and driving dynamics. Ready to go anywhere, it’s powered by the spirit of adventure.

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DBX is a 5 seater SUV that provides a sumptuous experience for every occupant. It’s a world of luxury, with a panoramic sunroof providing a sense of airiness and space for all. A commanding driving position instils a sense of confidence and provides the driver a clearer view of the road ahead.

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With a unique body architecture just for DBX, the design and proportions reflect the unmistakeable style of an Aston Martin.

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www.buckitt.co.uk

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Gotta have it! fresh eye

Product DIONE ice cream has been recongnised with a number of international awards given by Michelin-starred Chefs, nutritionists and dietitians.

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DIONE doesn’t contain any preservatives, artificial colours and flavours, dairy stabilizers and gluten.

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Product Above: Discover classic Tiffany&Co solitaire rings ready for engraving, bold cocktail styles or create your own ring stack with delicate bands.

Above right: Sony MDR 2019 Crystal Embellished Leather Mules.

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Refinement in jewellery and headphones.

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Product Above: The iconic Dior Saddle bag has been reinvented in two sizes with leather, Dior Oblique canvas and embroidery versions available.

Above right: Nike MAG Back to the Future.

Right: Prada robot pendant.

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Indulge your fashion brand collectable whim.

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Connor Brothers A story of an imaginary pairing born out of very real mental health struggles. This it what art can be.

Out of pain comes sobriety, humour, beauty and a touch of retro Mills & Boon style.

Sponsored by

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Art Posing as Franklyn and Brendan Connor – American twins brought up in an extremist Christian cult known as ‘The Family’ and deprived of access to information from the outside world – The Connor Brothers were eventually revealed as art-dealersturned-artists, Mike Snelle and James Golding.

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About - Former art dealers Mike Snelle and James Golding produce highly-collectable paintings and prints which take a light-hearted approach to being more emotionally open.

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Recently we’ve teamed up with the charity CALM - The Campaign Against Living Miserably - who’s aim is reduce the number of deaths in the UK caused by suicide.

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Retro imagery, replete with unexpected and unsettling narratives.

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Did you know?

In 2015, the artists teamed up with Pussy Riot to build tents in the Calais Jungle refugee camp.

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A unique perspective on modern popular culture.

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Their satirical work continues to blur the boundaries between truth and fabrication, creating acrylic and oil paintings that pose as large-scale book covers with a film-noir twist.

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The Connor Brothers one of the most influential art duos of the decade.

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Elbaz philosophy An image of a designer’s mind - Dennis Sterne

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lber Elbaz is an Israeli fashion designer. After positions at several other fashion houses, he was the creative director of Lanvin in Paris from 2001 until 2015.

When Elbaz speaks of design, it is very clear that his perspective always enters from a humanist perspective. A perspective that comes from the standpoint of sensitivity. Elbaz is acutely empathetic to the human condition, what expressiveness it, and how this should reflect in the designing of clothes. While all these parts appear to be elementary within a template for fashion design, it is not always rudimental in design.

His notions of haute couture is essentially about really knowing the client. Knowing how they tick, what their vulnerabilities are, what they prefer to hide. Most importantly how in

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the case of women - what makes them feel happy, empowered, and joyful. More often than not, joy is the word that echos and resonates when Elbaz speaks about his engagement in the business of designing clothes. In some way, his emphasis on joy is a more explorative expression rather than to coin the phrase labour of love. It’s an intriguing thought process, should we analyze what we do in the pursuit of love, joy, the satisfaction of completing a creation, or whatever the motivation. But this ‘joy’ pursuit or ‘joy’ by-product I suspect is the engine that is essential to the creative process.

Essential to a more effortless and organic process. A state that’s good for living, life as well as being creative. He also places a big emphasis on love as a vital interaction for the betterment of fulfilling relationships. Thus leading to joy, his notable friend, and tool for the purpose.

Very often we now hear of expressions like u

Fashion Icon

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“It’s about solving problems with a dream.”

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- the present moment, the moment, and being present. Elbaz prefers ‘Longevity’. This is more about transcendence for him. This ‘joy’ then is much more about the energy that keeps things going. The fuel that he needs if you will. When he talks about the ingredients for designing, he speaks about colour, detailing, and volume. He suggests that the interplay between these elements is about visually balancing these elements out. The correct amount is really about seeing these elements against each other. This all plays out more powerfully in the process of sample making which is beyond the stage of sketching and drawing.

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Triumph Elbaz has been hailed by models alike as an ambassador for the embrace and inclusion of all ethnicity in fashion his promotion.

He becomes emotional when reflecting on racial social awareness. The essence of his humanity is clearly all about acceptance and inclusion. It’s very convincingly expressed too as he points to what he sees as a huge void in anything glamourous when refers to himself.

“I’m not tall, athletic ar particularly healthy in appearance,” he says.

It’s this reflection that brings an awareness that his idea of design is not just intuitive but also about an expression that beautification comes from within. The gift within us that dwells inside made to be expressed outwardly.

This idea, when realised fully becomes a revelation.

Fashion update: More recently the beloved designer is forming a joint venture with Richemont, the Swiss luxury conglomerate that owns Chloé, Yoox Net-a-Porter group, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, among other brands.

Fashion Icon New Venture After his abrupt departure from Lanvin, Elbaz had been sorely missed . But news broke that the beloved designer is forming a joint venture with Richemont, the Swiss luxury conglomerate that owns Chloé, Yoox Net-a-Porter group, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, among other brands. Known as AZ Fashion it will be “an innovative and dynamic startup, meant to turn dreams into reality,” according to a release.

Above: Lanvin Fall 2009.

Right: Alber Alvez in iconic novelty glasses and bow tie.

Far right: Sasha Pivovarova in Lanvin Fall 2007 dress.

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“Abar Elbaz never tried to transform me but helped me to become a better version of myself�

- Meryl Streep -

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Luxury

Above: Bardot ice cream, ‘the world’s sexiest confection: the most decadent gelato robed in graphic fantasy’.

Right: Gourmet burger

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Premiumisation Blurring the lines of luxury consumption.

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hough luxury is still inherently rarefied, today our desire for it has become unrestrained. Meaning that, even in tough economic times, when value may dictate many purchases, we have continued to seek lesser or inexpensive ways to experience it.

And this has created a new niche – and a ‘mass’ desire – for ‘premiumised’ products.

Whilst luxury is still the pinnacle, the gap has now dramatically closed. We expect luxury and special moments every day and by creating this bridge between the standards of the luxury world and the mass market we can now experience privilege at differing price points, making the luxury effect accessible to all. Premiumisation has made the impossible dream possible.

Food is one sector that has seen a phenomenal shift when it comes to quality and perception – and one where premiumisation is probably the most prolific and pronounced.

Concept The benchmark was initially set in 1998 when Tesco’s Finest range created a pivotal moment for premiumisation within massmarket food. It succinctly used luxury’s visual

language – black, silver, emotive language, refined and stylized photography – in a way which continues to be emulated today by its competitors as shorthand for a higher quality experience.

Expressions of premiumisation are now evolving from this established handwriting to new and more individual rhetoric. And it is worth comparing and contrasting a notable few to show the scope of the luxury influence and ideals – and to identify just where a new and more disruptive approach and evolution may be leading – or indeed narrowing – the field for the premium and luxury landscape overall.

Ask anyone to name examples of premiumisation – particularly when it comes to brand and designer collaborations – and I’m sure they would probably be able to name dozens. The list is now endless…and this is the sticking point.

This initiative has become so prolific and so abused that there needs to be a very good reason to now embrace this route. Only the very original or very best are in a position to borrow the true traits of luxury or differentiate themselves to create new limits of desirability in this way.

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Dressing it up in art!

Fashion gleans inspiration from many places not least the artform of art itself. fresheye rounds up a collection of fashion design using art at the heart.

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Fashion meets Art

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Gucci 2218 Campaign x Ignasi Monreal ‘Utopian Fantasy’ was released for Gucci’s Spring Summer 18 campaign, It featured 70 hand-drawn images with photo-realist depictions of the latest Gucci line in mythological, fanciful and surreal scenarios.

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The Magnificent Impact of Alexander McQueen S/S99.

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Remember the remarkable 13th show from the British designer, which featured intricately carved prosthetics and live spray-painting courtesy of a car manufacturing machine

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Homage to Mondrian The Mondrian Collection 1965 was designed

by French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.

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Daniel Buren x Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2013 Collaborating with conceptual artist Daniel Buren, Marc Jacobs 2013 Louis Vuitton show created a totally crazy experience.

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Cara Taylor walks the runway at the Moschino show during the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020.

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Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Piccioli FALL 2018 READY-TO-WEAR.

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Keith Haring as inspiration for SS18 collection for COACH 1941.

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Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami jewellery box.

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Calvin Klein Andy Warhol print denim jacket.

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Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Continues Andy Warhol - Inspired Fashion The Pre-Fall 2018 collection.

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Louis Vuitton Collaborated with streetartist AndrĂŠ Saraiva for their Artist Scarves Collection 2014.

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Alexander McQueen & Damien Hirst Scarf Collaboration 2013.

Photo, Sølve Sundsbø

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Damien Hirst and Alexander McQueen collaboration 2013. Celebrating the 10th anniversary of McQueen’s iconic skull scarf.

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Calvin Klein Andy Warhol Portrait Sneakers 2018.

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05/2/21

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Airpods

MAX

fresheye get’s excited at new tech that really raises the bar.

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Tech

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Introducing AirPods Max - a perfect balance of exhilarating high-fidelity audio and the effortless magic of AirPods. The ultimate personal listening experience is here.

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Notes: The best wireless noisecancellers you can buy.

The premium materials make the AirPods Max significantly heavier than the existing wireless headphones you might also consider – at 385g, they weigh more than 100g more than the Sony WH-1000XM4.

But, such is the effectiveness of the weight-distributing design, they really don’t feel heavy on the head and there are no pronounced pressure points.

Tech

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If you want to be more aware of what’s going on around you, there’s also a Transparency mode, which actively processes external noise and pumps it through to your ears.

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Note: Apple has resisted the urge to integrate touch controls into the design of the AirPods Max, but has also, thankfully, not gone entirely hands-free. Instead, on the top of the right-hand cup are two physical controls: a simple button for switching between noise-cancelling modes; and a dial inspired by the digital crown of the Apple Watch.

Twist it to increase or decrease volume, click to play/pause, double-click to skip forwards and triple-click to skip back. Holding the crown down invokes Siri, although by default the AirPods Max are also always listening for the ‘Hey Siri’ command.

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AirPods Max sound their best with both the noise-cancelling and Transparency mode switched off.

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Notes: Overall battery life, Apple quotes around 20 hours of use from a full charge.

On the technology front, Apple has installed one of its H1 chips in each of the earcups. Between them, these processors analyse information coming in from eight microphones dotted around and inside the headphones (there’s also a ninth microphone for picking up your voice, which comes through very clearly on calls) to not only actively block outside noise but also tailor the sound in realtime to the fit and seal around your ears.

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Switch from music to movies and the AirPods Max have a trick in the form of spatial audio, which provides a virtual surround sound experience from 5.1, 7.1 and even Dolby Atmos content. www.apple.com/uk/airpods-max/

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fresh eye

Flex Tech

Right: Luxurious iPhone Z Concept Boasts Tri-Fold Design with a 10.4″ Display and 90 Diamonds

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And... Flex!

Off the hinge luxury - the Caviar way.

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he class of Grand Complications watches is the absolute elite of the watch world, where there’s the rule: the more complicated, the better! Caviar decided to borrow this principle and transfer it to the dimension of the world of the modern smartphones and literally “complicated” iPhone XS with a watch mechanism!

Now you have at your disposal not only a modern smartphone that has nothing impossible in the technological area, but also a precise skeleton watch that glamorously complement the grandiose panel of decorative gears covered with gold on the back side of the body.

The canonical combination of black and gold is a classical story about success, business, style and elegance. The design of this smartphone will perfectly fit into your noble and moderate style. Now you’ll be able to answer to the question: What time is it?” by throwing your eye on any sice of your smartphone!

The innovations and classic of the great watch art made a step towards each other and this meeting is impressive!

Phone Body: The body is decorated with the engraved blackened titanium and engraved decorative gears (gold covering according to the technology Double Electroplated) and the inserts of composite onyx.

Plate: Customized Caviar plate. Gold covering.

Body and buttons: Customized Caviar plate. Gold covering.

Mechanism Based on ETA Unitas 6498-1 modified mechanics with a manual winding, 17 stones, makes 18 000 vibrations per hour, the power reserve is 30 hours. The mechanism is esthetically improved by Caviar masters: the platinum is decorated with manual engine-turning with the pattern “baroque curls”; the mechanism elements are covered with the double gold covering Double Electroplating (999-gold content, 7 microns). The skeletonized format allows viewing the work of the entire mechanism.

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The soft cheese factor Dive into the extracts from nature.

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he history of making Vacherin dates back to around 200 years, but only since 1981, it has been controlled officially. Swiss people call this soft, washed-rind cheese as Vacherin du Mont d’Or, in France it is called Vacherin du Haut Doubs (or just Vacherin in local shops).

Vacherin is made from pasteurised cow’s milk, which offers a full-flavoured and slightly acidic taste. The cheese becomes almost liquid after maturation. It has a greyish-yellow blanched rind which has to be removed before eating it. This rare and luxury cheese is eaten like a Fondue. Vacherin is produced only from 15th August to 31st March. The cheese tastes delicious with wines such as Beaujolais Nouveau, Côtes du Jura and Champagne. It comes in various shapes enclosed with a strip of spruce bark.

A firmer Swiss cheese, is called Vacherin Fribourgeois. It is produced under Swiss AOC in the Fribourg canton, where Gruyère also originates.

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Cheese

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In Paris, they bake Vacherin Mont d’Or, but, in the Jura, where the cheese comes from, they just spoon it straight from the box and enjoy the rich, voluptuous texture and full fruity flavour.

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