Fresheye Magazine. October Edition 2019.

l Christian

fresh eye

Dior

Red Bull l Alexander McQueen l Prada l Photography l Rolls Royce l

Magazine

Fashion Journey edition

Issue 46. October 2019 Lifestyle Photography Culture

fresheyecourses.com

3

8 42

16 4

64

58 Contents 46 l Icon

24

30

Adwoa Aboah.

22 40

l

fresh eye

Chanel A new couture direction.

4 8 16 22 24 30

42

64

Sexy goes Simplicity.

Herpen Fashionable organics.

l Tom Ford

58

l Rolls Royce

Awe-inspiring concept design and technology.

l Christian Dior

The exhibition review. l Brand campaign

Zaaf and Joey L.

l Alexander McQueen

Mens S/S 2020.

l Prada DNA report

A close look at the label. l Red Bull illume

Photo extremity.

l Places vs Spaces

Environmental influence.

Sponsored by

l Iris van

68

l iphone 11

Now with 2 and 3 cameras.

Shoot happy!

Prada campaign archives Coutesy of Prada.

4

Christian Dior designer

T

he breath taking exhibition dedicated to the fashion house Christian Dior, set new records and exhibition expectations this year with its truly beautiful story telling set up. The exhibition broke the V&A’s attendance record, attracting 594,994 visitors in seven months! From 2nd February to the 1st of September 2019. Previously the V&A’s Alexandra McQueen exhibition had held the record, having attracted more than 480,000 visitors in 2015.

“There is no other country in the world, besides my own, whose way of life I like so much. I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture. I even love English cooking.” Christian Dior The exhibition exquisitely illustrated Dior’s life, spanning from 1947 to the present day, tracing back the history and impact of one of the 20th century’s most influential couturiers, exploring the enduring influence of the fashion house, and also Dior’s relationship with Britain.

Christian Dior was a major influence within the fashion industry and has stood the test of

fresh eye

Fashion exhibition record breaker

time, still being known as one of the world’s most outstanding classic designers. When visiting the exhibition this summer, I was certain that it wouldn’t disappoint – due to the overwhelming feedback it had received throughout its showcasing. However I didn’t expect to be so in awe of the truly beautiful instillations reflecting this magnificent designer.

The exhibition took you on a journey through his life and career, from growing up in Normandy France, to later moving to Paris with his family where his true passion began.

Exhibition Reviewed

fresheyecourses.com

Sophie says.....

of dreams

by Sophie Fitzjohn.

From the heart-warming story of him selling his sketches on the streets to make pocket money, to later on taking over an art gallery where he sold work by artists including Pablo Picasso.

He founded the house of Christian Dior on December 16th, 1946 at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris; where he also showed his first collection in 1947. The exhibition presented over 200 rare Haute Couture garments drawn from the V&A’s couture collection and the extensive Dior Archives alongside accessories, fashion photography, film, vintage perfume, original make-up, illustrations, magazines, and Christian Dior’s personal possessions.

The iconic haute couture Bar Suit from 1947 which represented the era of the New Look was presented in the first room of the exhibition, as well as his effortless illustrations, and photos from his personal life. The exhibition lead into an area where all of Dior’s Classic New Look designs were featured. Consisting of fit and flare dresses, beautiful A-line coats and exquisite suits! It was like a walk through time, as garments and gowns from all eras were scattered through

“We knew that the exhibition would be popular, but we have been overwhelmed by the phenomenal visitor response to-date,” said Tristram Hunt, the director of the V&A

The V&A’s Alexander McQueen exhibition had held the record, having attracted more than 480,000 visitors in 2015.

5

6

Sophie says.....

Immigrational and Boarder control.

Above right: Taking its lead from the 2017 exhibition of the same name at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the V&A introduced a special segment celebrating Dior’s attraction to British culture, entitled Dior in Britain. One of the most popular pieces in the section includes the asymmetric tulle gown Dior created for Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday celebrations in 1951 which was later immortalised in the royal’s official portrait by Cecil Beaton.

the gallery. The detail and craftsmanship of his designs is truly commendable, and his versatility of fabrics and applications was magnificent to see in person.

The exhibition also featured designs purely based on the inspiration from countries all around the globe, which were extravagant and heavily embellished, and the works from other influential designers who worked for the fashion house throughout it’s time, as a result of Dior’s death in 1957.

However my favourite room was the magical flower embellished gallery; where handmade decorations draped from the ceiling and intricate, feminine and inspiring designs were showcased; it was like wondering through a real life fashion fairytale!

You were then lead into a completely white space, where the magic of each design was unveiled. This room was filled from top to bottom of toiles of each and every iconic design, illustrating the true craftsmanship, design and fitting process of each garment.

The exhibition drew to an end in the only way worthy for a showcasing of its type, in a ballroom inspired space where gowns were dripping in crystals, rhinestones, and oozing the glamour of Dior. The overall experience was magnificent, with the use of uplifting music, and soft lightening; everything was considered in the creation of this exhibition, and it reflected Christian Dior’s iconic fashion house aesthetic in the most beautiful way.

Exhibition Reviewed

The exhibition, which celebrated the life and work of the famed designer, was the largest retrospective of the fashion house ever staged in the UK and the first fashion exhibition to be staged in the museum’s renovated Sainsbury gallery.

fresheyecourses.com

Attracted almost 595,000 people in seven months.

7

8

Ethiopian fashion designer using Local resources and creating jobs.

W

inning and internationally recognized work established in Ethiopia, ZAAF is developing long-term growth opportunities across Africa, partnering with skilled artisans to develop high-end designer products that celebrates the boundless depths of the continent’s ancient cultures, designs, and natural wonders that have laid the foundation for the next wave of incomparable creativity, luxury, and style.

The brand offers economic empowerment to artisans and a new perspective and standard of global luxury. Our vision is to create products people love and want to buy as this is the most sustainable of approaching economic development.

Abai Schulze is the Founder and Creative Director of ZAAF. Her life journey has taken her from an orphanage in Addis Ababa to the United States and the rest of the world. Abai is committed to using her academic background in economics and fine arts from her alma mater George Washington University to create unique and practical expressions of beauty.

ZAAF’s creativity has been recognized in various ways ranging from appearing on runways at New York Fashion Week, to being featured in Elle, Lucky and Vogue, to receiving the UNESCO Tremplin Prize for Entrepreneurship.

In 2018, ZAAF was nominated for Socially Responsible handbag design at the Independent Handbag Designer Awards in New York. ZAAF products are now being carried in boutiques in France, Nairobi, and Ethiopia and the USA. ZAAF recently opened a first of its kind experiential designand-shop boutique in Washington DC.

fresh eye

Brand Campaign

Africa i

fresheyecourses.com

an influence Photographed by Joey L. - Canadian born photographer and director based in Brooklyn, New York.

9

10

Brand Campaign

Joey L Bio Since the age of 18, Joey’s work has been consistently sought out by a number of prominent advertising clients, including Lavazza for their 2016 calendar, National Geographic Channel, U.S. Army, Canon, Jose Cuervo, Summit Entertainment, History Channel, The Government of Abu Dhabi, and many others.

fresheyecourses.com

ZAAF - Nominated for 2018 Independent Handbag Designer Awards.

11

12

Behind the scenes Photographer Joey L and his team maintain a quirky web series aptly named Dudes with Cameras, inspired by his humorous behind-the-scenes escapades on shoots—giving viewers a look into how unpredictable and entertaining life on set can be.

Brand Campaign

fresheyecourses.com

Photo series and documentary premiered at the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art in Washington DC.

13

14

Brand Campaign

Traveler Most recently, Joey traveled twice to the Kurdish regions of Iraq and Syria to document the volunteer fighters of the PKK and YPG. The new series, Guerrilla Fighters of Kurdistan, highlight the men and women on the frontline of the ongoing conflict with ISIS.

fresheyecourses.com

Made in Africa - Full Behind the Scenes Documentary can be seen on Youtube. www.zaafcollection.com www.joeyl.com

15

16

McQueen Man A strength in British fashion, by Dennis Sterne.

T

he opulent collection, full of Japanese references, black lace, silver bullion, and a cascade of black ribbons looking as if they were swiped from a Victorian widow’s weeds. Designed by creative director Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen presents nine looks for the spring/summer 2020 menswear collection. Photographed by Ethan James Green, this collection highlights the brand’s sartorial excellence and dedication to new interpretations of the men’s silhouette.

Inspiration This collection is a dialogue between Alexander McQueen womenswear and menswear. It also references and reminisces on Nineties McQueen and the frequent inspiration trips made by the team to Japan at that time.

fresh eye

Key note Traditional tailoring is reconstructed, cut up and pieced together. Referencing the A/W 2019 Alexander McQueen womenswear collection, asymmetric trompe l’oeil suiting comes in men’s pinstripe fabrics, made in the textile mills in the North of England. Doublelayered jackets are panelled in different scales of pinstripe, double-dyed black wool gabardine and grey tonic mohair - an early Nineties McQueen signatire - andfeature pleated half skirts. Suiting is worn with striped or white cotton shirting.

Stand out piece Long black coat with layers of ribbon-like ruffles on the skirt, made from surplus fabric from past seasons. A nod to the sustainability ambitions of the house and a wink to the iconic lady in black, Queen Victoria, whose bicentenary is being celebrated this year.

Fashion Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2020

fresheyecourses.com

An exploration of hybrid influence continues...

17

18

fresh eye

Fashion Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2020

fresheyecourses.com

19

Signature Alexander Mcqueen in fuchsia, wool mohair and broderie Images courtesy of Alexander McQueen.

www.buckitt.co.uk

22

Prada DNA The DNA evolves and moves away from fur.

I

talian fashion house Prada is going fur free in 2020. The company made it official in a tweet early summer.

The move comes after the Fur Free Alliance, a group of 40 animal-protection organizations from 30-plus countries, struck up conversation with the beloved brand to convince it that fur is, like, so over. Now Prada is moving toward ethical luxury that doesn’t harm animals just so humans can look trendy.

“The Prada Group is committed to innovation and social responsibility, and our fur-free policy–reached following a positive dialogue with the Fur Free Alliance, in particular with LAV and the Humane Society of the United States–is an extension of that engagement,” said Miuccia Prada.

“Focusing on innovative materials will allow the company to explore new boundaries of creative design while meeting the demand for ethical products.”

fresh eye

The change has been a long time coming.

Last year, after Prada was the target of a concerted email campaign by animal rights activists to get them to stop using fur, the company revealed it had been moving away from it and toward man-made materials and recycled goods—and reinventing its iconic nylon bag.

Now the company will go fur-free and cruelty-free, and will no longer sell mink hats or fox coats or rabbit fur-lined anything. It’s a change customers will see in effect in the spring-summer 2020 women’s collection. The Prada-owned brands Miu Miu, Church’s, and Car Shoe will also stop using animal hair.

Prada is just the latest fashion house to make the animal-friendly choice. Last year, Burberry announced it would stop using real fur in its products and Gucci stopped using fur in its spring-summer 2018 collection.

Fashion report

fresheyecourses.com

23

The exploration of apparently distant universes is imbued in the DNA of the Prada Group, which supports Fondazione Prada’s cultural projects as well as Luna Rossa sporting challenges.

24

Red Bull illume Red Bull Illume is the world’s greatest adventure and action sports imagery contest. It showcases the most creative and captivating images on the planet, while illuminating the passion, lifestyle and culture behind the photographers that shoot them.

fresh eye

Photography

fresheyecourses.com

The 2019 Red Bull Illume Image Quest is the fifth edition of the contest after 2007, 2010, 2013 and 2016. Not so long ago, most photographers had to be selective when shooting due to the cost of film, but the advent of digital cameras has made it easier than ever to catch moments that would otherwise have been missed – which is a particular boon for action photography.

Recognizing this, in 2006 Red Bull came up with the idea for its Illume Image Quest devoted to digital action and adventure sports photography.

Above: Jean-Baptiste Liautard -2016 Left: Robb Thompson -2016

25

26

fresh eye

Photography Since 2007 Red Bull Illume Image Quest has highlighted creative and captivating images from around the globe every three years, but from this year on it will be held every two years, in response to growing interest in photography around the world (the competition attracted 34,624 images by 5,646 photographers from 120 countries in 2016).

Above: Vernon Deck St. Moritz. Svizzera Above right: Romina Amato Energy winner from 2013 contest.

fresheyecourses.com

27

This year the competition sees the addition of two new categories; Best of Instagram by SanDisk, which will see adventure and action sports pic entries posted in Instagram judged each month, and the Moving Image category, which will accept video sequences of five to 30 seconds in length.

28

Above: Hamish Frost

fresh eye

Photography The winners of 2019 will share in over US$100,000 in prizes.

www.redbullillume.com

Right top left: Adam Kokot Right top right: Silas Stein Above right: Ryan Taylor Right: Scott Dickerson

fresheyecourses.com

11categories, with a winner from each category and an overall winner to be selected from 55 finalists and unveiled at the awards ceremony in November.

29

30

Places vs Spaces Environment can not be understimated for its affect on the senses. Let natural order, colour, smell, tecture and composition play a part in the orientation of positive emotion. Allow your beautiful environment to make you present.

fresh eye

Environment

fresheyecourses.com

Mystical Eastern Sierra, the remote east side of the Sierra Nevada region of California. www.davidshieldphotography.com

31

32

Dreamy Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona

fresheyecourses.com

Womb Graffiti Cafe Bulgaria

33

34

Scenic Borobudur in misty morning - Indonesia

fresheyecourses.com

Closet Senzafine walk-in closet by CR&S Poliform

35

36

Natural Subtropical forest in Nepal

fresheyecourses.com

Powerful Ethnic chic - A Square Designs

37

38

Ethereal Verailles Hall of Mirrors

fresheyecourses.com

Majestic Chile, Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park.

39

40

fresh eye

Chanel Couture

The vision Viard thus eases into her head-honcho role with a wide range of looks and a major focus on tweeds seemingly intended as outreach to Chanel’s vast client base: “Ladies, whatever your preferences, we’re still here for you.” Within that, she showed some preferences of her own, particularly for a long, lean silhouette.

41

Chanel Couture Fall 2019 Virginie Viard’s couture debut for the French house.

F

or her first couture collection for the French house, Virginie Viard kept things easy and elegant, with a bookish charm.

Both Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld were avid readers, book lovers and collectors, so the set was a fitting tribute by the newly appointed creative director, as was the easy, elegant collection filled with classic Chanel tweeds, Edwardian silhouettes and plenty of bookish charm.

The look Much of the offering seems primed for everyday wear, particularly the tweed overcoats, roomy pleated trousers, flat

loafer-style shoes, skirt suits and oversized wire-framed spectacles. Historical elements like high collars, puffed sleeves, bow ties and voluminous skirts popped up throughout, but they don’t take away from the collection’s overall modernity.

Aside from some embroidery and feathers on a selection of looks, the eveningwear was largely minimal — most often just nipped-in at the waist with a belt. There was a leisure element that stood out this season too: From a navy silk robe coat to the final baby pink look that was essentially a tiered, textured formal pajama set, these are the sorts of feminine, unfussy clothes that women are willing to pay a pretty penny for.

42

Tom Ford brings sexy back A highlight of this seasons ready to wear looks and colours by fashion’s sensual designer.

O

n Tom Ford’s readyb to wear autumn/ winter men and women collection - he called it a “search for security” and said it was a response to the culture of negativity in the world around us, especially in the United States. Ford’s desire for calm and security led him to tailoring. It’s his wheelhouse; you can recognize a Tom Ford men’s suit from across any room.

Designers’ constant dilemma is the push and pull of the new and the dependable. In this time of chaos it makes sense that Ford would reexamine what he’s good at. (There’s plenty of evidence that the formula is working elsewhere—see Prada and Versace.) He hasn’t gone tame, per se, as much as he’s reworking

fresh eye

the sleek ’90s codes he famously established.

It’s hard to synthesize the zeitgeist twice, but certainly, that red velvet is going to be irresistible all over again.

Handwriting He doesn’t give up the glamour cold turkey, though. The ankle-strap peep-toe platform pumps strewn with rhinestones were a saucy riposte to the restraint elsewhere. And there were faux-fur fedoras and faux jackets and coats of many shapes and sizes, including a gleaming silver chubby. The silk jersey evening columns with heavy chain embellishments echoed the slinky white numbers from the same mid-’90s collection that produced that fabulous red tux.

Tom Ford

Fashion note Fashion can’t cure the world’s ills, but it can lift spirits.

So says Tom Ford, who offered a lovely, gentle collection for fall.

fresheyecourses.com

Tom Ford takes a broader view of fashion, seeing it as a powerful life tool.

43

44

fresh eye

Tom Ford

Ethical note Ford said he’s only using leather and shearling that are byproducts of food production in his collections and faux fur instead of real.

fresheyecourses.com

45

The colour palette influenced seemingly by the time he spends in Southern California, but Ford credits his time in the Big Apple for the collection’s big hats. www.tomford.com

i

46

Adwoa Aboah

Adwoa means ‘born on Monday’ - she was born on a Monday.

Fresheye celebrates a shining diverse figure in the industry of fashion.

fresh eye

Fashion Icon Revlon and Adwoa Aboah opened a 24 hr free beauty salon in London last month to celebrate the brand’s ColorStay 24HR Longwear Foundation.

fresheyecourses.com

Aboah has modeled for Calvin Klein, Fendi, DKNY, Alexander Wang, Theory, H&M, Aldo, Versus (Versace), Topshop, Fenty x Puma, Kenzo, Simone Rocha, and Erdem among others.

47

48

Aboah has an organisation for young women called Gurls Talk. www.gurlstalk.com

fresheyecourses.com

She played Lia in the 2017 Hollywood adaptation of the Japanese manga Ghost in the Shell

49

50

The Gurls Talk Barbie doll.

Photograph - Mattel

fresheyecourses.com

To mark the doll’s 60th anniversary on International Women’s Day (March 8), Aboah has been unveiled as a “Shero” doll along with 20 other incredible women.

51

52

She was one of fifteen women selected to appear on the cover of the September 2019 issue of British Vogue.

fresheyecourses.com

She is also a British Vogue contributing editor.

53

54

Aboah has suffered from depression, drug addiction and is now sober and a mental health activist.

fresheyecourses.com

55

Aboah later graduated from Brunel University in 2013, with a bachelor’s degree in Modern Drama.

56

Gold jewellery is part and parcel of Adwoa Aboah’s style

fresheyecourses.com

Now, thanks to a collaboration with John Hardy, you can buy into her mode of self expression.

57

i

58

Awe Rolls Royce

Rolls-Royce unveils its driverless car of the future which is very bad news for chauffeurs everywhere!

fresh eye

Car

fresheyecourses.com

Rolls-Royce describes it as the ‘ultimate concept car’, in a rare insight into how the luxury vehicle maker sees the future of motoring.

59

i

60

Advancement The world of autonomous vehicles just got a more luxurious, after Rolls-Royce unveiled a driverless super car of the future.

It has dubbed its futuristic car, which looks like it could have come straight out of Batman’s cave, the Rolls-Royce 103EX. The vehicle will be six metres long, with a canopy roof, covered wheels and a curved body.

fresheyecourses.com

BMW, who own Rolls-Royce, said self-driving technology was still some way off being fully autonomous.

61

Iris

64

A fixture on the Paris Haute Couture calendar, where she has shown since January 2011.

I

ris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer who is widely recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and forwardthinking creators who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion design. Since her first show in 2007 van Herpen has been preoccupied with inventing new forms and methods of sartorial expression by combining the most traditional and the most radical materials and garment construction methods into her unique aesthetic vision.

S/S 2020 Iris van Herpen collaborated with American kinetic sculptor Anthony Howe, whose pieces are powered by the wind. The designer said she was compelled by the way its arching vertebrae, spinning on a curving axis, simultaneously expand and contract. The collaboration with Howe evolves ‘in an ecstasy of attentiveness’ through the symbiosis of all the elements of nature that are dependent on each other. www.irisvanherpen.com u

fresh eye

Fashion Aim: To explore new forms of femininity for a more diverse and conscious fashion for the future.

fresheyecourses.com

“Through my eyes, fashion creates a dialogue between our insides and our outsides.”

65

66

Creative origination Within my search for transformation, one of the most influential things in my life has been my classical ballet practice.

Those years of dancing I learned so much about the symbiotic relationship between the mind and body, the transformation and the ‘evolution’ of shape.

“Through biomimicry I look at the forces behind the forms in nature, these endless mysteries within nature create a huge influence on my work.”

Fashion

Inspired Seeing water move for example shows me that nature is the most ingenious artist herself, and her metamorphoses are my muse to see new forms of beauty and seduction, giving me inspiration to re-sculpt the female form.

fresheyecourses.com

“Each collection is a search to reach beyond my understanding of my canvas of female form and todays definition of a garment.�

67

i

68

No.11 A new dual‑camera system captures more of what you see and love. The fastest chip ever in a smartphone and all‑day battery life let you do more and charge less. And the highest‑quality video in a smart­phone, so your memories look better than ever.

fresh eye

Apple

Introducing Night mode.

Shooting in low light doesn’t have to be a shot in the dark.

Night mode is a new feature that turns on automatically for low‑light photos like you’ve never seen.

There’s no need for flash, colors are more natural, and photos are brighter.

fresheyecourses.com

On the flagship iPhone Pro models, it contains three separate cameras, and on the iPhone 11, there are two - oh, and slow mo selfie mode.

69

70

Shoot and edit the highest-quality video in a smartphone. iPhone 11 shoots beautifully sharp 4K video at 60 fps across all its cameras. The Ultra Wide camera captures four times more scene, so it’s perfect for action shots like your dog catching a frisbee.

If you’re recording a performance - say, your kid’s piano recital - when you zoom in, the audio zooms too. And now you can edit videos as easily as you do photos.

The High-Key Light Mono effect in iOS 13 transforms your portraits into studio‑style monochromes. And Portrait Lighting Control lets you create the look you want by changing the intensity of light on your subjects.

Apple

All‑new dual‑camera system. Take your photos from wide to ultra wide. A redesigned interface uses the new Ultra Wide camera to show you what’s happening outside the frame — and lets you capture it. Shoot and edit videos as easily as you do photos. It’s the world’s most popular camera, now with a whole new perspective.

fresheyecourses.com

Love at first, second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth sight.

71