Fresheye Magazine. October Edition 2020

l Chrisopher

fresh eye

Kane

Red Bull l Alexander McQueen l Chanel l Photography l Rolls Royce l

Magazine

Coastal edition

Issue 46. October 2020 Lifestyle Photography Culture

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l British Coastline

Seafront pictorial - Dorset and Devon.

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60 Contents 42

l Chanel

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A/W 2020 Couture.

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Learning and building.

Architecture on high.

l Lego

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Apposing views.

l Nautical influence

Fashion in action.

l Alexander McQueen

Mens A/W 2020. l Addidas ZX

Boosted technology. l Red Bull illume

Extreme photos.

l Christopher Kane

A/W 2020 and journey.

Sponsored by

l B. Ingels

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Awe-inspiring concept design and technology.

A view into Apple’s development window.

l Rolls Royce

l Cancel Culture

l iPhone 12

Cover image: Swanage on sea.

Photographer Dennis Sterne - iPhone 8.

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Navigating our world of

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ome in on the term ‘cancel culture’. With the rise of social media and other social platforms, where news, opinions and views are all voiced so publicly, it’s now a phrase which is more frequently used.

Online public shaming, where targets are publicly humiliated via social media platforms, and or localised media. In a nutshell cancelling and cancel culture have to do with the removing of support for public figures in response to their objectionable behaviour or opinions. This can include boycotts or refusal to promote their work.

We all cancel things from time to time, but who knew it could be used in this manner. In particular it involves people such as celebrities, politicians and anyone who take up space in the public arena. It’s never been so important to think before you speak… or type.

To cancel someone means to stop giving support to that person, movement or organisation. The reasons for cancellation can vary; however its usually as a result of the person in question having expressed an objectionable opinion, or having conducted

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Your 10:30 viewpoint has been cancelled

themselves in a way that is unpopular or unacceptable. This has been the case with J.K. Rowling in recent times, due to her views and opinions and also her newly released book ‘Troubled Blood’. She unapologetically speaks her mind, which has got her into trouble before, regarding the subject of transgender and now being accused of Islamophobia, due to her new book release. It seems that spokespeople who haven’t even read the book want to react negatively; therefore causing a debate which seems to be unbalanced, but illustrating cancel culture in its clearest form.

Cancel Culture

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Sophie says.....

cancelling

by Sophie Fitzjohn.

The concept has taken hold in recent years due to conversations prompted by ‘MeToo’ and other movements that demand greater accountability from public figures. To cancel someone publicly often requires broadcasting that act, which then makes the target of the cancelling a subject of attention. The objective behind cancelling is often to deny that attention, so that the person loses cultural cachet. A prime example of this is the talk show host Ellen DeGeneres, she landed herself in hot water recently by the way she is said to treat her guests and people she knows in general. Being labelled to put it bluntly, mean.

Cancel culture singles out people who have unpopular views or opinions and usually puts important subjects to the forefront of people’s minds and the media. A positive in the sense that it enables change and gets people talking about sometimes difficult subjects. However this method also creates a hate like community which can occasionally get out of hand and cause unnecessary unrest. Freedom of speech is important in both instances; however people must be mindful of the consequences as repercussions will always occur.

“There is this sense sometimes of, ‘The way of me making change is to be as judgemental as possible about other people.’ And that’s enough,” Former US president Barack Obama has called out cancel culture on the Internet, saying that it is not an effective form of activism.

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Coastal influence fresh eye

Style

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op aboard everyone, it’s time to look shipshape!

Though the navy existed hundreds of years before, it wasn’t until the 18th century that a standardised uniform was introduced amongst members of the Royal Navy. The uniform utilised a colour palette of blue and white with gold or silver accents, providing the origins for the term ‘navy blue’. This recognisable colour scheme has continued into contemporary fashion, with many garments originally considered sailor’s clothing becoming classic wardrobe staples, such as the Breton shirt or Peacoat.

The start of Sailor Style A big influencing factor in bringing nautical fashion as an inspiration to the masses came in 1846, whereupon sailing around the Channel Islands Queen Victoria dressed her 4 year-old son Albert Edward in a specially made miniature sailor’s suit. A portrait of Albert was then commissioned, and when displayed at St James’s Palace the picture was seen by over 100,000 members of the public, stimulating an interest in nautical leisurewear which would last for much of the century. It was during the World Wars that military details such as stripes were commonly added to women’s wear whilst their men were away.

French Riviera Style Staples The iconic Coco Chanel was also a catalyst in the continuation of nautical fashion. In 1917, Chanel began selling a jersey version of the striped Breton top, pairing it with wide-legged trousers and a thick belt, and during the 1920s, she was often spotted wearing striped sweaters and bell-bottom style ‘yachting pants’ on the bohemian French Riviera, undoubtedly increasing the popularity of the style and introducing the Breton marinière into the luxury sector.

In 1931, a Vogue cover featured a nautical fashion illustration, picturing a woman at a ship’s wheel, wearing bell-bottom trousers and a striped top, items which are still worn in present day.

Designers from Vivienne Westwood to Galliano and Chanel have all created collections inspired by naval wear and maritime culture.

Main: Burberry A/W 2019 - Photographer: Danko Steiner.

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Buttons The brass-button jacket is also a classic of the maritime trend, taking influence from naval uniforms. A garment that has been transformed over the centuries, modern versions feature lighter fabrics and more comfortable silhouettes, ranging from coats to blazers.

Above right: Hermes AW 2020/2021 Right: Jean Paul Gaultier’s design debut for Diet Coke 2012.

Style

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Did you know? Stripes were supposedly used within maritime clothing because they make a man overboard more visible.

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Longevity Everyone knows fashion is cyclical, with iconic trends from bygone eras getting rebooted, reimagined and then retired season after season. Yet if there’s one trend that’s never gone away, it’s the nautical look. Finding inspiration in navy uniforms, yachting attire and sailor style, nautical fashions – from horizontal stripes to sailor hats, brass-button jackets, peacoats and anchor prints – evoke the romantic idea of life on the high seas, with fresh air, sunshine and the open ocean as far as the eye can see.

Above left: Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020.

Style

Above top: Burberry Spring 2020.

Above: Chanel Resort 2020.

Above right: Fendi Resort 2020.

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Military styles and details began infiltrating civilian fashion, as replicating the style of the Royal Navy was associated with status and respectability, and eventually became a mark of solidarity during the First World War.

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DNA Many classic garments find their origins in fishing, sailing and naval pursuits – in fact, you’ve probably worn nautical fashions without even knowing it! Iconic pieces include wide-legged trousers, cable-knit jumpers, roll-neck jumpers, striped Breton shirts, peacoats, duffle coats, rain slickers and swim trunks. In terms of shoes, espadrilles and deck shoes are typical examples, with shoes often made from natural materials like canvas and hemp.

Right: Meghan Markle in nautical inspired dress and blazer.

Style

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‘Coco’ Chanel was often seen dressed in her boyish striped sweaters and ‘yachting pants’ on the bohemian French Riviera.

Above far left: Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020. Above left: Chanel Above top: Mulberry.

Above left: Burberry Summer 2020. Above right: Cotton and jersey stripe layers.

Left: Chanel’s Cruise 2019 Collection took to the high seas with plenty of nautical-themed bags.

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McQueen Man New season British fashion, by Dennis Sterne.

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arah Burton was dreaming about stark northern landscapes, windblown terrain, and the earth’s minerals for this collection, which was filled with sharp tailoring, dramatic embellishment and prints hand-drawn in the Alexander McQueen studio.

Inspiration Influence from the harsh environments of Northern British landscapes, as well as the restained elegance of modernism in regards to the Art Nouveau movement, Henry Moore’s drawings, and the label’s history, looking at heritage tailoring, uniforms, hybrids and garment beetling.

Casual Casualwear pieces come in the form of wool and mohair-knitted jumpers that sport house

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graphics including skulls and an exploded Argyle-flag motif, as well as heavy-duty-esque artist overalls that are printed with oversized, hand-drawn skulls and embroidered with silver and gold bullion thread.

Stand out The collection brings a variety of slick doublebreasted suits - such as an all-white offering complete with thistle embroidery - as well as a standout long-line coat made from “Mineral Yellow” suede. Other notable pieces include the garment beetled leather coat, which was pounded against wooden beams for over four hours. The wool-silk suits and coats that are printed with an engineered artwork of Henry Moore’s Three-Quarter Figure 1928, and lastly, the bejeweled vests that include molten metal ores and engineered art nouveau iris silver bullion embroidery all over.

Fashion Alexander McQueen Autumn Winter 2020

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An exploration of hybrid influence continues...

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Fashion Alexander McQueen Autumn Winter 2020

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Art Nouveua, Henry Moore & British Landscapes for FW20 Images courtesy of Alexander McQueen.

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www.buckitt.co.uk

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Adidas ZX ZX 2K Boost technology in the running.

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ver the past 71 years, adidas has been delivering footwear that occupies the intersection between culture and technology.

And though several products from its extensive catalog have lived at this crossroad, the ZX line from the 1980s is arguably top of mind. The Three Stripes launches the ZX 2K Boost to acknowledge the line’s ceaseless pursuit of innovation.

Rooted in the DNA of the ZX 710 from 1987, the forthcoming silhouette’s inaugural release dons a “Crystal White” and “Hi-Res Green” palette. Uppers are constructed from engineered mesh and feature a sock-like collar.

Elsewhere, TPU heels and full-length Boost midsoles are updates to the PU heel stabilizer and EVA cushioning found on the original ZX 710.

Boost technology The BOOST™ technology returns more

fresh eye

energy than any other cushioning material in the running industry. It combines comfort and returns energy at take-off thus gives an excelllent running experience.

The BOOST™ cushioning is softer and returns more energy than the conventional EVA (A foam used in most running shoes’ soles). Until now comfortable meant: soft.

Energy return meant: hard. Running shoes were either comfortable or fast. The Energy Boost offers both.

Light, air permeable was designed to take the shape of the foot. The Energy Boost is comfortable without hindering. You may want to add a touch of class to your exercise routine in the gym or just make a statement in your day to day activities – either way, the adidas ZX range will have something for you. From traditional styled trainers with classic lines in understated tones to more modern-looking versions of the original adidas running shoe, this range has been designed with everyone in mind – men, women and children included.

Sneaker report

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For almost 40 years, the ZX range has stood as a symbol of progress for adidas to keep things moving.

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Red Bull illume Red Bull Illume is the world’s greatest adventure and action sports imagery contest. It showcases the most creative and captivating images on the planet, while illuminating the passion, lifestyle and culture behind the photographers that shoot them.

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Photography

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The 2019 Red Bull Illume Image Quest is the fifth edition of the contest after 2007, 2010, 2013 and 2016. Not so long ago, most photographers had to be selective when shooting due to the cost of film, but the advent of digital cameras has made it easier than ever to catch moments that would otherwise have been missed – which is a particular boon for action photography.

Recognizing this, in 2006 Red Bull came up with the idea for its Illume Image Quest devoted to digital action and adventure sports photography.

Above: Jean-Baptiste Liautard -2016 Left: Robb Thompson -2016

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Photography Since 2007 Red Bull Illume Image Quest has highlighted creative and captivating images from around the globe every three years, but from this year on it will be held every two years, in response to growing interest in photography around the world (the competition attracted 34,624 images by 5,646 photographers from 120 countries in 2016).

Above: Vernon Deck St. Moritz. Svizzera Above right: Romina Amato Energy winner from 2013 contest.

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The competition sees the addition of two new categories; Best of Instagram by SanDisk, which will see adventure and action sports pic entries posted in Instagram judged each month, and the Moving Image category, which will accept video sequences of five to 30 seconds in length.

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Above: Hamish Frost

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Photography The winners of 2019 will share in over US$100,000 in prizes.

www.redbullillume.com

Right top left: Adam Kokot Right top right: Silas Stein Above right: Ryan Taylor Right: Florian Breitenberger / Red Bull Illume 2020

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This year Red Bull is back to celebrate your creativity with Red Bull Illume Special Image Quest 2020

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British Coastline Environment can not be understimated for its affect on the senses. Let natural order, colour, smell, tecture and composition play a part in the orientation of positive emotion. Allow any beautiful environment to make you present.

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Destination

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Mystical Swanage beach hut changing colour walk way at night.

Photography: Dennis Sterne - iPhone 8

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Twinkly Swanage coastline at night.

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Dusk Graffiti Cafe Bulgaria

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Arcadia Swanage arcade

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Closet Senzafine walk-in closet by CR&S Poliform

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Misty The Swanage shoreline.

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Hut Swanage beach huts.

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Conservation Studland Beach National Trust - Dorset.

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Majestic Rule of thirds on the beach - Swanage.

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Beach Scape Burleigh Salterton pebble beach- Devon.

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Swanage Dusk Swanage beach huts at twilight.

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Twinkly Italian ice cream in England.

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Dusk Dipping Swange coastline dipping at dusk.

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fresh eye

Chanel Couture

Tweed Of course, it wouldn’t be Chanel without the signature tweed ensembles and it’s here where Viard plays with our notions of the familiar somehow not feeling old.

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Chanel 2020 A/W Couture Karl Lagerfeld as seen through the eyes of Virginie Viard for the new Chanel haute couture collection.

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or the Chanel A/W 2020 Haute Couture collection, creative director Virginie Viard became the vessel for Karl Lagerfeld’s legendary spirit. Much like Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Viard has managed to retain the presence of the man who made the Chanel name what it is today, while interpreting his design IQ with her own creative vision to produce a collection that at once feels familiar yet not old; reassuring yet exciting; Karl and yet Virginie. This summer’s haute couture collection channeled Coco Chanel from her formative, childhood years learning dressmaking at the Aubazine Covent in France. The winter collection swings the

pendulum back the other way to leave much more of Lagerfeld’s imprint on it.

Punk Princess The ‘punk princess’ is the unseen star of the collection. Even if she doesn’t actually exist, we should all be thankful this collection was designed with her specifically in mind. The amazing modern opulence combined with that very same sharp ‘punk’ edge is a rare sight to behold. A stunning anthracite, full-length velvet gown is enhanced with a one-two combination of a spectacular full empire line and beautiful flower embroidery at the waist and the sleeve cuffs for some wonderfully contrasting bright colours.

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Autumn Winter new season Chic sexuality - The Scottish fashion giant’s constructing through many seasons gone by.

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or A/W 2020, Christopher Kane channeled the concepts of sex and nature by focusing on the story of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, illustrated as a passionate triangle which embodies man, woman, and nature. These were Kane’s muses of the season that ultimately revealed his most refined interpretation of sexuality to date.

The Vibe As his starting point, Kane focused on a triangle, which is the fundamental shape discovered in the natural and unnatural (literally and metaphorically) in equal measures. A series of looks that opened the collection put the triangle in the spotlight, seen in panels of multicolored patchwork, with

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shiny satins, and shaped cuts. The shape was then seen extended into the fashion narrative beyond geometry as the designer reimagined the original love triangle.

Dresses reminiscent of smart schoolgirls were accessorized with prim bows, and angelic buttoned-up shirts were styled under dreamy cream tailored pieces. A twist of aesthetic quickly altered the mood, emerging as a congregation of mischievous, highcut crystal mesh dresses constructed from chainmail and “saucy lingerie”-inspired outfits. With the ability to merge kitsch and typically unsexy objects into supple and lavish garments of desire, Christopher Kane once again illustrated his unparalleled dexterities throughout his Autumn-Winter collection.

Christopher Kane

Fashion note Christopher Kane’s overall message was that he forever believes in strong women, and they don’t come much stronger than the woman he had in mind for this collection.

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Christopher Kane accumulating something ever more strange and beautiful to his collections.

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Christopher Kane

Fashion note Apart from the triangle, there were other references to The Fall, from the bold apple red tones of asymmetric knitwear and column dresses to the earthy browns that peppered the collection.

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Kane is a master of temptation, making things that err on bad taste like neon lace, lashings of rhinestones and gaudy prints utterly desirable.

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Go go Lego!

Supporting a more creative and resilient society.

Fresheye celebrates the artistry of the traditional and popular building block that is Lego.

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Building blocks LEGO: Founded in 1932 by Ole Kirk Kristiansen, and based on the iconic LEGO brick, it is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of play materials.

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Play transcends cultural, socio-economic and political boundaries and is universal in impacting children positively.

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LEGO offers education resources for either primary or secondary schools.

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LEGO play starts to release a child’s potential from the moment they pick up their first brick.

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Research suggests that playful learning experiences appear to be a particularly effective way of developing broad, dynamic and interconnected skills.

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The LEGO Foundation is committed to re-defining play and re-imagining learning to ensure children develop the skills needed to navigate an uncertain and complex world.

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Play is one of the most important aspects of children’s upbringing. From the very early years throughout adolescence and into adulthood.

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Play nurtures and develops the breadth of skills that enable us to be powerful agents of our own lives and positive contributors to our communities.

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In the future, it will become less important for children to retain large quantities of knowledge obtained through rote learning. Instead they will need skills like creativity.

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Collaboration and critical thinking will factor to a far larger extent than before in combination with more traditional skills like reading, writing and maths.

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We are at a cross roads where the rapid emergence of for example artificial intelligence (AI), machine learning, robotics as well as social unrest necessitate that we rethink what it is children need to learn - and how they need to learn it.

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The LEGO Foundation and UNICEF share a deep commitment to improving children’s lives. In early 2015, the two organisations signed a 3.5 year, USD 8.2 million partnership aimed at promoting quality early learning through play for children around the world.

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Awe Rolls Royce

Rolls-Royce unveils its driverless car of the future which is very bad news for chauffeurs everywhere!

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Car

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Rolls-Royce describes it as the ‘ultimate concept car’, in a rare insight into how the luxury vehicle maker sees the future of motoring.

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Advancement The world of autonomous vehicles just got a more luxurious, after Rolls-Royce unveiled a driverless super car of the future.

It has dubbed its futuristic car, which looks like it could have come straight out of Batman’s cave, the Rolls-Royce 103EX. The vehicle will be six metres long, with a canopy roof, covered wheels and a curved body.

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BMW, who own Rolls-Royce, said self-driving technology was still some way off being fully autonomous.

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Ingels Bjarke Ingels

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jarke Bundgaard Ingels born 2 October 1974 is a Danish architect, founder and creative partner of Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG).

In Denmark, Ingels became well known after designing two housing complexes in Ørestad: VM Houses and Mountain Dwellings. In 2006 he founded Bjarke Ingels Group, which grew to a staff of 400 by 2015, with noted projects including the 8 House housing complex, VIA 57 West in Manhattan, the Google North Bayshore headquarters (co-designed with Thomas Heatherwick), the Superkilen park, and the Amager Resource

Center (ARC) waste-to-energy plant – the latter which incorporates both a ski slope and climbing wall on the building exterior.

Triumph Since 2009, Ingels has won numerous architectural competitions. He moved to New York City in 2012, where in addition to the VIA 57 West, BIG won a design contest after Hurricane Sandy for improving Manhattan’s flood resistance, and are now designing the new Two World Trade Center building. Ingels and his company are the subject of the 2017 documentary BIG Time. u

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Architecture Recognition: In 2011, The Wall Street Journal named Ingels Innovator of the Year for architecture.

In 2016 Time Magazine named him one of the 100 Most Influential People.

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“We have attempted to design a structure that embodies multiple aspects that are often perceived as opposites, a structure that is free-form yet rigorous, modular yet sculptural, both transparent and opaque, both solid box and blob.”

Above: Model for 2016 Serpentine Gallery Pavilion in London designed by BIG. The installation is a soaring and curvaceous structure that returns to one of architecture’s most essential elements: the brick wall, resulting in a dramatic shift between a straight line and a three-dimensional space.

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Quote “All of the huge projects that take longterm commitment are actually the most important projects we can engage with, and the fact that we might not see them realised in my lifetime is even more of a reason for getting them started now.”

Reflecting on his career to date Ingels said it has been “pretty goddamn amazing”. “If I’m doing what I’m doing, it’s because I’m really excited about what I’m doing, even if I feel like I’m suffering a little bit. I would actually rather do this than live in paradise.”

Architecture 1. 8 House residential project with a figure-of-eight plan - Copenhagen.

2. The Twist at the Kistefos Sculptural Park - Norway 3. Grove at Grand Bay residential scheme - Miami.

4. School of Management Business Innovation Hub - Isenberg.

Inspired He cites historic cathedrals, the Duomo in Milan and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, as examples of buildings designed with the future in mind.

Above:Pyramid building NYC. Right: The VM Husene Building - Copenhagen, Denmark.

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“What defines architecture is that it actually produces reality” says Bjarke Ingels.”

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No.12 Sneak peak - Apple’s iPhone 12 Pro Max will have the biggest display ever seen on an iPhone and the highest resolution. Apple will once again restrict the primary camera on the iPhone 12 to 12 megapixels, though the sensor size will be increased.

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Apple

Anticipation. iPhone 12 still looks set to sell like hot cakes, thanks to a new chassis design, clever camera tech and barnstorming performance. A cheaper model is on the horizon, however, so keep this in mind when Apple eventually launches these devices following tease after tease.

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iPhone 12 Pro Max will jump to a 6.7-inch, 2788 x 1284 pixel screen, up from the 6.5-inch, 2688 x 1242 iPhone 11 Pro Max.

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Expectation - So what do we expect for the iPhone 12 when it does eventually arrive? In a first for Apple, it’s expected the new iPhone could be joined by as many as three other phones. These are rumored to be called the iPhone 12 Max, iPhone 12 Pro, and iPhone 12 Pro Max. As such, there should be more iPhone choice than ever this year, especially once you factor in the iPhone SE (2020) which launched earlier in the year.

5G - The big caveat is that the base iPhone 12 models may not support mmWave 5G technology. It’s expected this will be a feature reserved for the two top-end models.

Apple

Expect some big upgrades from Apple, including the first 5G iPhone. With 5G networks rolling out across the world this will make the new phones far more futureproof than the iPhone 11 range.

Top right: An example of what the iPhone 12 Pro camera could look like (Image credit: Phone Arena)

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All devices may come equipped with OLED displays this year.

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