1_ Research _ inspiration _ historical perspective _ problem statement _ research question
2_ Methodology
3_ Design
_ motivation _ validity _ constraints _ output
_ design concept _ urban positioning _ visualisations _ technical details
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
1_ Research _ inspiration _ historical perspective _ problem statement _ research question
2_ Methodology
3_ Design
_ motivation _ validity _ constraints _ output
_ design concept _ urban positioning _ visualisations _ technical details
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
“The factory has to provide the economy for the city in which it is located� A. Olivetti Democrazia senza partiti
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Olivetti industries Ivrea
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Olivetti industries Pozzuoli
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The industrial shed
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1) land occupation
2) boundary
3) dependency on infrastructure
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4) mono functionality
London
Barcelona
Buenos Aires
Chicago
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Vienna
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Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
-17th century
CRAFTMAN WORKSHOP AS AN EXTENSION OF THE HOUSE
18th century
CASA FABRICA ARE BORN IN THE RAVAL, AS CONCENTRATION OF PRODUCTION CAPITAL
19th century
FABRICA PAR PAVILLONS IS POWERED BY THE STEAM ENGINE, IT IS HIGHLY POLLUTING AND THUS REQUIRES A DEGREE OF AUTARKY
20th
21th
THE MODERN FACTORY REFLECTS THE PRINCIPLES OF THE MODERN MOVEMENT. IT IS POWERED BY ELECTRICITY AND THUS CAN HAVE A BETTER URBAN SYMBIOSIS.
THE CONTEMPORARY FACTORY REFLECTS THE GLOBALISED PRODUCTION. ITS SALE AND MATERIALISATION PREVENTS ANY INTEGRATION WITH THE CITY
century
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
century
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overwhelmed by Japanese competitors,
Apr 21st 2012 | From the print edition
rivals with “lightsout” manufacturing. The idea was that factories would become so
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advantage, it turned out, lay not in
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The 4,600-square-metre plant is still being built but Adidas opened it to the press, pledging to automate shoe production – which is currently done mostly by hand in Asia – and enable the shoes to be made more quickly and closer to its sales outlets. The factory will deliver a first test set of around 500 pairs of shoes from the third quarter of 2016. Large-scale production will begin in 2017 and Adidas was planning a second “Speed Factory” in the United States in the same year, said Hainer. Hainer insisted the factories would not immediately replace the work of sub-contractors in Asia. “Our goal is not full automatisation,” said Gerd Manz, head of innovation and
94
other lowerwage countries as workshops. Prompted by the global financial crisis, some Western policymakers now reckon it is about time their countries returned to making stuff in order to create jobs and prevent more manufacturing skills from being exported. That
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smarter and more dexterous robots, some
the factory of the future. Several dozen machines are humming away, monitored from a glassfronted control room by two people looking at computer screens. Some of the
Nuns and other Christians in Syria: Finally, a little good news
industrial robots, has automated some of its production lines to the point where they can
machines are the size of a car, others that of a microwave oven, but they all have windows that you can peer into. One is making jewellery, others are producing the plastic grip for an
Erasmus 56 mins ago
electric drill, the dashboard of a car, an intricate lampshade and a bespoke artificial leg. One is even making parts to build more machines like itself.
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print day and night.
This is the headquarters of 3D Systems, a firm founded by Chuck Hull, who in a 1986
Charlemagne 57 mins ago
patent described a system he had invented for making threedimensional objects as “stereolithography”. It worked by using a beam of ultraviolet light to solidify a thin layer of
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Yet manufacturing will still need people, if not so many in the factory itself. All these automated machines require someone to service them and tell them what to do. Some machine
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a broader range of skills. And certain tasks, such as
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Gulliver 2 hours 11 mins ago
assembling components, remain too fiddly for robots to do
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wage countries.
process, building objects up layer by layer. 3D printing was originally conceived as a way to make oneoff prototypes, but as the technology is getting better more things are being printed as finished goods (a process known as
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additive manufacturing). Currently around 28% of the money
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spent on printing things is for final products, according to
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Industrial robots are getting better at assembly, but they are
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expensive and need human experts to set them up (who can
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cost more than the robot). They have a long way to go before they can replace people in many areas of manufacturing. Investing in robots can be worthwhile for mass manufacturers
Terry Wohlers, who runs a research firm specialising in the
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sized businesses robots are generally too costly and too inflexible.
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field. He predicts that this will rise to just over 50% by 2016
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he thinks, because the ability to make prototypes quickly and
and to more than 80% by 2020. But it will never reach 100%, cheaply will remain an important part of the mix.
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like carmakers, who remain the biggest users of such machines, but even in highly automated car factories people still do most of the final assembly. And for small and medium
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added a wide variety of personalised options at later stages of production. Thus the
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purchaser of a Swatch has thousands of different options in terms of colour, straps,
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product. In the case of a watch, the internal mechanism is a platform to which can be
fascia, and so on. Yet all are based on only a few timekeeping mechanisms. The same is
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increasingly true of cars. Even a traditional mass production manufacturer like BMW now boasts that no two of its new cars are identical.
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Mass customisation is made possible by the use of information technology. Levi Strauss,
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which pioneered the idea in 1994 with its Original Spin jeans for women, measured customers in its stores and sent their details electronically to its factory. The customised
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There has been plenty of research to show that manufacturing is good for economies, but in recent years some economists have argued that there is nothing special about making
customers to build a vehicle from a palette of online options. Companies that have difficulties introducing mass customisation tend to have them on two counts:
Science and technology | Jul 18th, 19:08
and bad jobs in both manufacturing and services. But on average manufacturing workers do Cleveland, for the Brookings Institution, a thinktank in Washington, DC (see chart 2). Manufacturing firms are also more likely than other companies to introduce new and innovative products. Manufacturing makes up only about 11% of America's GDP, but it is responsible for 68% of domestic spending on research and
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innovation, helps to reduce trade deficits and creates
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recycling and green energy. These are all good reasons for a
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country to engage in it.
If one building can be said to have produced modernity, it is this. Richard Arkwright’s Cromford Mill, built in 1771 near Derby, supplanted the workshops of feudalism and brought workers together in great numbers. Earlier buildings such as Venice’s Arsenale had amassed labouring bodies, but they lacked powered machinery. This innovation concentrated wealth in the hands of the mill owners (Arkwright died the richest untitled man in Britain), but it also created the proletariat as a self conscious class. Marx predicted that the bourgeoisie had thereby dug its own grave, as the united workers would inevitably revolt; they did, but that grave still lies empty. The factory has filled plenty of others since: the dark satanic mills killed men, women and children in their thousands, and they still do in many countries. Those who survived endured unspeakable conditions inside these buildings, and beyond: the factory blackened the landscape, and great grim cities grew around them.
operations accordingly. • They fail to shift their production satisfactorily from a system based on a series of tightly
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integrated processes, as demanded by mass production, to a system of loosely linked
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Pine, an early writer on the subject, put it: “Mass customisation organisations never know what customers will ask for next. All they can do is strive to be ever more prepared to meet the next request.” There is a danger that mass customisation becomes so popular that it detracts customers
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shops where customers could put together cassette tapes from the recordings of a wide range of artists. It soon found that the service was such a hit that it was cannibalising
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sales of traditional cassettes and cds. Joseph Pine pushed the idea a step further. In “The Experience Economy: Work is
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CONTENTS World politics
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Five hundred years from now, says venture capitalist Steve Jurvetson, less than 10 percent of people on the planet will be doing paid work. And next year?
Chinese Angst over Uber HR by Algorithm
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Previous technological innovation has always delivered more longrun employment, not less. But things can change Jan 18th 2014 | From the print edition
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Oiling the wheels: Americans are spending more of the oilprice windfall...
IN 1930, when the world was “suffering…from a bad attack of economic pessimism”, Production at Ford Motor Company’s new engine plant in Elabuga, Russia, will be 95 percent automated.
As a founding partner at the venture capital firm Draper Fisher Jurvetson and a board member at SpaceX and Tesla Motors, Steve Jurvetson spends a lot of time thinking about the future, often the distant future. One of Elon Musk’s biggest backers—Jurvetson boasts that he owns the first Tesla production Model S—he was also a founding investor in Hotmail and sits on the board of Craig Venter’s Synthetic Genomics, the constructor of the first synthetic cell.
deindustrialisation. Nearly 9m people were employed in British manufacturing in 1966; by 2011 fewer than 3m were. Manufacturing’s share of the economy is around 10% today, half what it was in 1990. In different countries, from rustbelt America to rustic China, a
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chorus of voices is urging government to boost domestic industry so that it makes more stuff. The trouble is, according to a study published in Britain on October 30th, most
His firm claims to have funded companies that have created more than 20,000 jobs in the past five years, and to have brought nearly two dozen companies to $1 billion in value before exiting. Jurvetson spoke to Business Reports senior editor Nanette Byrnes about why he thinks 90 percent of people will be unemployed in 500 years and how we might transition to that sharply different future.
transforming it.
the future many manufacturers will not even have a factory, according to the report, which was commissioned by the British government from expert panels made up of 300 business people and academics*. Their verdict: “Manufacturing is no longer just about production. Production is now the core of a much wider set of activities.” Manufacturing has traditionally been considered to be a process that turns raw materials into physical products. Nowadays, though, the physical part of production is at the centre of a much wider value chain. Manufacturers are increasingly generating revenue from other activities, many of which are categorised as services. As the report points out, 39% of British companies with more than 100 employees derived value from services related to their products in 2011, up from 24% in 2007. Those services are varied. RollsRoyce, for instance, now gets about half its revenue from services, including leasing jet engines to airlines on a “powerbythehour” basis. ARM, which designs the chips that are used in most smartphones, does not have a factory but licenses its designs to a federation of other firms that makes them. Scores of specialist engineering firms in a successful British cluster in the motorsport industry develop new vehicles for global carmakers, but build few cars of their own.
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not without dangers. One of the worries Keynes admitted was a “new disease”: “technological unemployment…due to our discovery of means of economising the use of labour have heard of the problem, he suggested—but they were certain to hear a lot more about it in the years to come.
Gulliver | Oct 8th, 11:10
For the most part, they did not. Nowadays, the majority of
Are today’s new digital technologies destroying or creating jobs?
Asia | 1 hour 46 mins ago
I absolutely believe in the near to medium term there is going to be net job creation, as there always has been. Think of all the Uber jobs. The opportunity is not yet fully tapped to, in a sense, distribute [over the Internet] the service economy. The service economy is bigger than the goods economy, so the online equivalent should be even bigger and more powerful than the online marketplace for physical goods.
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“Five hundred years from now everyone is going to be involved in some kind of information or entertainment … There will be no farmers, there will be no people working in manufacturing.”
: Retail sales, producer prices, wages and exchange rates Markets and data | Nov 12th, 13:17
: Foreign reserves
Many of these new jobs, including those at Uber, are taking shape on what you call the “edge of automation.” 1/6
on the use of labour will increase incomes. That will
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generate demand for new products and services, which will
United States
in turn create new jobs for displaced workers. To think
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otherwise has meant being tarred a Luddite—the name taken by 19thcentury textile workers who smashed the
Do you fear that these jobs might quickly disappear as technology keeps evolving?
up eliminating the need for human workers. On the contrary, it created employment opportunities sufficient to soak up the 20th century’s exploding population. Keynes’s would work just 15 hours or so a week has not come to pass.
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As manufacturing goes digital, it will change out of all recognition, says Paul Markillie. And some of the business of making things will return to rich countries
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transform the future of manufacturing.
Erasmus | Oct 11th, 02:29
One of those factories is known as Foxconn City. Owned by Hon Hai Precision Industry, a Taiwanese company, it is among the largest manufacturing complexes in China,
One of those big trade fairs held in Frankfurt is EuroMold, which shows machines for making prototypes of products, the tools needed to put those things into production and all
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employing some 230,000 people. Some of Apple's iPhones and iPads are assembled here. In March Apple agreed to improve working conditions at its Chinese factories after
manner of other manufacturing kit. Oldschool engineers worked with lathes, drills, stamping presses and moulding machines. These still exist, but EuroMold exhibits no oily machinery
Europe | Oct 10th, 17:09
tended by men in overalls. Hall after hall is full of squeakyclean American, Asian and
an outside audit found abuses of labour codes, including excessive overtime.
in front of computer screens. Nowhere will you find a hammer.
Europe | Oct 10th, 15:20
A third industrial revolution
And at the most recent EuroMold fair, last November, another
and toy factories moved to the mainland. But with increasing
Back to making stuff
prosperity Chinese workers want more pay, shorter hours
The boomerang effect
printers. Instead of bashing, bending and cutting material the
and more benefits, just as Taiwanese, Japanese and South
Forging ahead
way it always has been, 3D printers build things by depositing
Korean workers did before them. Labour costs in China
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All together now
coastal regions to inland China, where costs are lower,
Making the future
number of firms, especially those making clothes and shoes, have upped sticks and moved to Bangladesh, Cambodia,
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most of its trainers in China, but many of its big suppliers have moved elsewhere, and in 2010 Vietnam became the company's biggest production
will move again in the future; Myanmar looks tempting, provided that reforms there continue.
material, layer by layer. That is why the process is more
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properly described as additive manufacturing. An American
1
Germany’s refugee crisis Merkel at her limit
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Indonesia and Vietnam. Nike, for instance, used to make
http://www.economist.com/node/21552898
group of machines was on display: threedimensional (3D)
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Some labourintensive businesses are now moving from the
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Forging ahead Solid print Layer by layer
design and you will be presented with a bill for thousands of
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War in the Muslim world: Putin dares, Obama From the print edition dithers
head, machine it to a suitable finish, turn a wooden handle and then assemble the parts. To do that for one hammer would be
Apr 14th 2012
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prohibitively expensive. If you are producing thousands of
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hammers, each one of them will be much cheaper, thanks to
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http://www.economist.com/node/21552901
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The boomerang effect
firm, 3D Systems, used one of its 3D printers to print a
dollars. The makers would have to produce a mould, cast the
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hammer for your correspondent, complete with a natty wood
factory today to make you a single hammer to your own
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arm to bash a piece of metal with a hammer. Jonathan Borofsky, the artist who built it, says
Bagehot's notebook | Oct 11th, 09:42
up. Its population is now around 12m, including perhaps 6m migrant workers. They often
emerges (which, as this report will suggest later, is entirely possible), these businesses
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though the infrastructure may not be up to the mark. A
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often accused of running sweatshops, and labour in China
Yet some now fear that a new era of automation enabled by ever more powerful and Everything about Uber has been automated except for the driver. The billing, the fetching—every part of it is a modern, information-centric company. Interestingly, what that means is as soon as automated vehicles arrive, that driver is easily removed. You don’t have to restructure any part of that business.
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was undoubtedly cheap: that was why Hong Kong's clothing
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1570 to 1875. And they more than tripled from 1875 to 1975. Industrialisation did not end
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doubled between the beginning of the common era and 1570. They then tripled from
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As Chinese wages rise, some production is moving back to the rich world
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For much of the 20th century, those arguing that technology brought ever more jobs and prosperity looked to have the better of the debate. Real incomes in Britain scarcely
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machines taking their jobs.
vision of everyone in the 2030s being a lot richer is largely achieved. His belief they
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productivity, they argue, any automation which economises
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This year, almost half of survey respondents say that re-shoring manufacturing jobs to the U.S. is on their companies’ mind.
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In the future more manufactured products like these will be packaged with services: http://www.economist.com/blogs/schumpeter/2013/10/manufacturing
leave the said grandchildren a great deal richer than their grandparents. But the path was
outrunning the pace at which we can find new uses for labour.” His readers might not
policymakers don’t understand modern manufacturing, let alone how technology is
In Britain and elsewhere the days of grimy smokestacks and oily rags have long gone. In
John Maynard Keynes wrote a broadly optimistic essay, “Economic Possibilities for our Grandchildren”. It imagined a middle way between revolution and stagnation that would
BRITAIN, like many other countries, has gone through a period of huge
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from more profitable sales. A company in California, for instance, offered booths in record
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http://www.economist.com/node/21552899
Many early factories resembled Palladian villas, the fashionable choice for building in the British countryside; the contrast between the serene aristocratic facades and the activity within could scarcely have been more pronounced. In Europe, early factories were patronised by monarchs, and were even grander Ledoux’s saltworks at ArcetSenans are a sublimely weird example. However, in Britain flimsy pilasters soon gave way to reveal the brick boxes beneath, as the rationalising mania of the Industrial Revolution extended to its buildings. But rumblings of discontent were voiced regarding its effect on people, and nonconformist industrialists set out to reform factory work, now widely seen as degrading and risking unrest. They provided improved housing and improving chapels (but no pubs) in tweely authoritarian factory villages like Bournville.
1
autonomous units that can be configured as and when the consumer wishes. As Joseph
Buttonwood's notebook 2 hours 48 mins ago
10% of the workforce deployed by China, says Susan
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Commodities flowed from them, along with money for their owners but the factory also produced new ways of living, of thinking, and of designing
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find out what limits their customers are happy to live within, and then organise their
Demography and inequality: Back to the 19th century
Making the future
Despite China's rapid rise, America remains a formidable now about the same as China's, but it achieves this with only
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Europe | Jul 18th, 16:33
limits are, and then to be allowed free rein within them. Successful mass customisers first
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Layer by layer
production power. Its manufacturing output in dollar terms is
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Adidas, the German maker of sportswear and equipment, has announced it will start marketing its first series of shoes manufactured by robots in Germany from 2017.
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automation but in leanproduction techniques, which are mostly peoplebased. Many of the new production methods in this next revolution will require fewer people
OUTSIDE THE SPRAWLING Frankfurt Messe, home of innumerable German trade fairs,
glassfronted control room by two people looking at computer screens. Some of the
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is a familiar story. But now the tools are changing in a number of remarkable ways that will
that you can peer into. One is making jewellery, others are producing the plastic grip for an
making prototypes of products, the tools needed to put those things into production and all
is even making parts to build more machines like itself.
presses and moulding machines. These still exist, but EuroMold exhibits no oily machinery tended by men in overalls. Hall after hall is full of squeakyclean American, Asian and European machine tools, all highly automated. Most of their operators, men and women, sit in front of computer screens. Nowhere will you find a hammer. And at the most recent EuroMold fair, last November, another group of machines was on display: threedimensional (3D) printers. Instead of bashing, bending and cutting material the way it always has been, 3D printers build things by depositing material, layer by layer. That is why the process is more properly described as additive manufacturing. An American firm, 3D Systems, used one of its 3D printers to print a
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in China.
a Taiwanese company, it is among the largest manufacturing complexes in China,
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employing some 230,000 people. Some of Apple's iPhones and iPads are assembled here. In March Apple agreed to improve working conditions at its Chinese factories after
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an outside audit found abuses of labour codes, including excessive overtime. Countries that make things more cheaply than others are often accused of running sweatshops, and labour in China was undoubtedly cheap: that was why Hong Kong's clothing
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prosperity Chinese workers want more pay, shorter hours
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Some labourintensive businesses are now moving from the
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though the infrastructure may not be up to the mark. A number of firms, especially those making clothes and shoes, have upped sticks and moved to Bangladesh, Cambodia,
“
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1
As Rodrik points out, there are important gaps between the skills of the great unwashed masses in India versus China, where elementary technical training reached a larger mass of humans. In addition, China did better on core economic policy choices about (a) Removing protectionism; (b) Removing barriers to FDI; (c) Building hard infrastructure and (d) Rationalising taxation.
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Indonesia and Vietnam. Nike, for instance, used to make most of its trainers in China, but many of its big suppliers have moved elsewhere, and in 2010 Vietnam became the company's biggest production base worldwide. Unless some way of making shoes and clothing without manual labour emerges (which, as this report will suggest later, is entirely possible), these businesses will move again in the future; Myanmar looks tempting, provided that reforms there continue.
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environmentally messy, another of Mr Chouinard's peeves. In business, Mr Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia, an outdoorclothing firm, says he
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companies, not countries, that design, manufacture and sell products, and there are good
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earn more, according to a report by Susan Helper of Case Western Reserve University,
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and bad jobs in both manufacturing and services. But on average manufacturing workers do Cleveland, for the Brookings Institution, a thinktank in Washington, DC (see chart 2). Special report
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innovation, helps to reduce trade deficits and creates
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recycling and green energy. These are all good reasons for a country to engage in it.
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Despite China's rapid rise, America remains a formidable production power. Its manufacturing output in dollar terms is now about the same as China's, but it achieves this with only 10% of the workforce deployed by China, says Susan
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reports on its social and environmental impact alongside its financial results. Other than that, it can go about business as usual.
green detergents, paper towels and other household products.
purpose company” (FlexC), which allows a firm to adopt a specific social or environmental goal, rather than the broader obligations of a B Corp. Another option in
Prospero | Oct 12th, 04:55
BRITAIN, like many other countries, has gone through a period of huge deindustrialisation.
The Economist explains: Why India is transfixed by elections in Bihar
Nearly 9m people were employed in British manufacturing in 1966; by 2011 fewer than 3m were. Manufacturing’s share of the economy is around 10% today, half what it was in 1990.
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In different countries, from rustbelt America to rustic China, a chorus of voices is urging Geoffrey Howe, 19262015: What Geoffrey Howe’s career revealed about...
government to boost domestic industry so that it makes more stuff. The trouble is, according to a study published in Britain on October 30th, most policymakers don’t
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understand modern manufacturing, let alone how technology is transforming it. In Britain and elsewhere the days of grimy smokestacks and oily rags have long gone. In
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the future many manufacturers will not even have a factory, according to the report, which
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was commissioned by the British government from expert panels made up of 300 business people and academics*. Their verdict: “Manufacturing is no longer just about production.
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Production is now the core of a much wider set of activities.” Manufacturing has traditionally been considered to be a process that turns raw materials into physical products. Nowadays, though, the physical part of production is at the centre of
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a much wider value chain. Manufacturers are increasingly generating revenue from other activities, many of which are categorised as services. As the report points out, 39% of
1
America is the lowprofit limitedliability (LC3) company, which can raise money for
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socially beneficial purposes while making little or no profit. The idea of a legal framework for firms that put profits second is not confined to America.
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companies”. Similar laws are brewing in several European countries.
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The impetus for all this comes from people like Mr Chouinard, who believe that existing
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laws governing corporations and charities are too restrictive. Forprofit firms, they argue, Chinese condoms often face pressure to abandon social goals in favour of increasing profits. Nonprofit Reds in the bed
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their products in 2011, up from 24% in 2007. Those services are varied. RollsRoyce, for instance, now gets about half its revenue from
Britain, for example, has since 2005 allowed people to form “community interest
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shareholders. It must also publish independently verified
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advantage of a new California law designed to give businesses greater freedom to
The B Corp is a deliberate effort to change the nature of There has been plenty of research to show that manufacturing is good for economies, but in recent years some economists have argued that there is nothing special about making
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sustainability and longterm profitability that he calls “the slow company”.
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face and attach a rope to). Climbers often used to leave pitons in the cliff, which is
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andneck with China (see chart 1). In the decade to 2010 the number of manufacturing jobs
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in America fell by about a third. The rise of outsourcing and offshoring and the growth of
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otherwise has meant
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employees, 650 products, operations in 40 countries, over $2 billion in sales, and fifth in the
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sophisticated supply chains has enabled companies the world over to use China, India and
Economy, Indira Gandhi Institute for Development Research and the Ministry of Finance, and now works at NIPFP where he coleads the NIPFPDEA Research
What policy advice would flow from this? India should not have have made these five mistakes in economic policy (low training for the masses, protectionism, barriers to FDI, weak investments into infrastructure and mistakes in tax policy). At the same time, this does not recommend a bias in favour of manufacturing. It is hard to discern a meaningful choice about emphasising services versus manufacturing in Indian economic policy. Participation in all global production is good. Governments should remove all barriers that inhibit global integration whether in goods or in services e.g. the five mistakes in Indian policy sketched
Apr 14th 2012
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in turn create new jobs for displaced workers. To think
world (ACT, now number 3, market capitalisation of $30 billion, not too far from Facebook’s about a year ago). In 2001 Ron Zwanziger founded Inverness Medical (now Alere) out of the leftover assets from the $1.3 billion sale of his glucosemonitoring business (OneTouch) to
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Consider India, which demonstrates the limitations of relying on services rather than industry in the early stages of development. The country has developed remarkable strengths in IT services, such as software and call centers. But the bulk of the Indian labor force lacks the skills and education to be absorbed into such sectors. In East Asia, unskilled workers were put to work in urban factories, making several times what they earned in the countryside. In India, they remain on the land or move to petty services where their productivity is not much higher.
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A third industrial revolution
and toy factories moved to the mainland. But with increasing
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of outside cash) and within eight years grew it 100 times into a global leader with 11,000
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on the use of labour will increase incomes. That will
company with one product in the market, poured his life savings and house into it (and a lot
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FOR OVER 100 YEARS America was the world's leading manufacturer, but now it is neck
Rodrik says: Portugal's election: Shoes explain the re election of Portugal's austerity...
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This illustrates the limitations of manufacturingfocused thinking, which seems a bit out of date in today's world economy where most output is services. Agriculture and manufacturing have wilted away in the consumption of the global representative agent: to succeed in the world economy today requires prime attention upon services.
Erasmus | Oct 11th, 02:29
One of those factories is known as Foxconn City. Owned by Hon Hai Precision Industry,
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productivity, they argue, any automation which economises
economists confidently wave such worries away. By raising
entrepreneurial and much entrepreneurship is not about startups. In 1999 Icelander Robert
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India is a good example of a country which embarked on its catchup by connecting into globalisation late: from 1991 onwards. It was probably the last country in the world to shed autarkic policies. This has given a remarkable growth acceleration. Sustained growth of 7 per cent is pretty good by world standards. These achievements have been substantially driven by services production in India within global supply chains (whether within production facilities owned by global MNCs who are operating in India, or contractedout by global MNCs to Indian firms).
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live in dormitories close to the factories that have helped make this city one of the richest
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I have seen this kind of thinking among some policy makers in India also: that industrialisation is somehow special and good when compared with services. I would question this proposition, that I term `the widget illusion'. What matters to a country is having sophisticated firms that have a high marginal product of labour. We should not care whether this happens in services or in manufacturing. If anything, the opportunity to do it is perhaps better in services.
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in the early 1980s, workshops started to grow and glistening skyscrapers began to rise
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Except for a handful of small countries that benefited from natural resource bonanzas, all of the successful economies of the last six decades owe their growth to rapid industrialization.
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than ignoring the existence of electricity or cars. And research is showing that as many, if
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have heard of the problem, he suggested—but they were certain to hear a lot more about
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necessities presented by technology is backing light speed into oblivion, and no different
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arguably more technologyintensive, generically, than any of the report’s wideeyed examples. Furthermore, for any business, anywhere, ignoring the opportunities and
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outrunning the pace at which we can find new uses for labour.” His readers might not
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Davidson or American Express. In fact, medical devices and alternative energy are
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architects' models now appear in a 3Dprinted form for appraisal by engineers, stylists and clients before getting the
intrinsically more technological about Twitter and Facebook, say, than about Harley
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goahead. Any changes can be swiftly reprinted in a few
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whether it is diamond trading, transportation, construction, or energy. There is nothing
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THE distinction between tech and nontech entrepreneurship is false. Today, every
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a broader range of skills. And certain tasks, such as
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they can replace people in many areas of manufacturing.
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but a 3D printer can bring down the cost by a huge margin.
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business venture, entrepreneurial or otherwise, requires technology to be competitive,
operators will become machine minders, which often calls for
well, which is why assembly is often subcontracted to low
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even largely, about small, accelerated, lean social media startups. We invited him to
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One of the worries Keynes admitted was a “new disease”: “technological
moment", promulgates the misimpression that entrepreneurship is exclusively, or
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assembling components, remain too fiddly for robots to do
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hammers, each one of them will be much cheaper, thanks to
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spent on printing things is for final products, according to
he thinks, because the ability to make prototypes quickly and
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to service them and tell them what to do. Some machine
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Terry Wohlers, who runs a research firm specialising in the and to more than 80% by 2020. But it will never reach 100%,
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head, machine it to a suitable finish, turn a wooden handle and prohibitively expensive. If you are producing thousands of
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dollars. The makers would have to produce a mould, cast the then assemble the parts. To do that for one hammer would be
prototypes, but as the technology is getting better more things additive manufacturing). Currently around 28% of the money
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design and you will be presented with a bill for thousands of
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are being printed as finished goods (a process known as
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Layer by layer
This is what manufacturing will be like in the future. Ask a
3D printing was originally conceived as a way to make oneoff
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Forging ahead
effect handle and a metallised head.
Yet manufacturing will still need people, if not so many in the
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not without dangers.
Executive Education, thinks that our special report on tech startups, "A Cambrian
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factory itself. All these automated machines require someone
process, building objects up layer by layer.
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hammer for your correspondent, complete with a natty wood
cutting and injection moulding that operate without any human intervention. And additive manufacturing machines can be left alone to print day and night.
forms of 3D printing have since emerged (see article), but they all work as an additive
leave the said grandchildren a great deal richer than their grandparents. But the path was
Daniel Isenberg, who created the entrepreneurship ecosystem project at Babson
French politics: From Sarkoleaks to Sarkogate
other factories use processes such as laser
Graphic detail 1 hour 37 mins ago
Grandchildren”. It imagined a middle way between revolution and stagnation that would
Erasmus 56 mins ago
run unsupervised for several weeks. Many
Daily chart: Fukushima at three
liquid plastic, a bit like ink, and repeating the process by adding more liquid plastic. Other
Graphic detail 1 hour 35 mins ago
industrial robots, has automated some of its
Charlemagne 55 mins ago
patent described a system he had invented for making threedimensional objects as “stereolithography”. It worked by using a beam of ultraviolet light to solidify a thin layer of
Daily chart: Fukushima at three
John Maynard Keynes wrote a broadly optimistic essay, “Economic Possibilities for our
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production lines to the point where they can
French politics: From Sarkoleaks to Sarkogate
This is the headquarters of 3D Systems, a firm founded by Chuck Hull, who in a 1986
Charlemagne 54 mins ago
manner of other manufacturing kit. Oldschool engineers worked with lathes, drills, stamping
FANUC, a big Japanese producer of
Erasmus 55 mins ago
electric drill, the dashboard of a car, an intricate lampshade and a bespoke artificial leg. One
French politics: From Sarkoleaks to Sarkogate
One of those big trade fairs held in Frankfurt is EuroMold, which shows machines for
IN 1930, when the world was “suffering…from a bad attack of economic pessimism”,
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smarter and more dexterous robots, some lightsout manufacturing is now possible.
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machines are the size of a car, others that of a microwave oven, but they all have windows
Erasmus 53 mins ago
transform the future of manufacturing.
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the factory of the future. Several dozen machines are humming away, monitored from a
arm to bash a piece of metal with a hammer. Jonathan Borofsky, the artist who built it, says it is a celebration of the worker using his mind and hands to create the world we live in. That
working on the factory floor. Thanks to
INSIDE A LOWRISE building in a business park at Rock Hill, South Carolina, is a vision of
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stands the “Hammering Man”, a 21metre kinetic statue that steadily raises and lowers its
http://www.economist.com/node/21542432
services, including leasing jet engines to airlines on a “powerbythehour” basis. ARM, which designs the chips that are used in most smartphones, does not have a factory but licenses its designs to a federation of other firms that makes them. Scores of specialist
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engineering firms in a successful British cluster in the motorsport industry develop new vehicles for global carmakers, but build few cars of their own. In the future more manufactured products like these will be packaged with services:
Nuns and other Christians in Syria: Finally, a little good news Erasmus 57 mins ago
components will come with sensors that give automatic alerts when the product needs http://www.economist.com/blogs/schumpeter/2013/10/manufacturing
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Never mind the hipsters. It’s the property developers who are ruining our cities | Dan Hancox | Comment is free | The Guardian
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CONTENTS Business & finance
Economics
Science & technology
Culture
Materials
Manufacturing
Forging ahead
The third industrial revolution
Apr 21st 2012 | From the print edition
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Manufacturers are increasingly working with new, gamechanging ingredients
The digitisation of manufacturing will transform the way goods are made—and change the politics of jobs too
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in the late 18th century, with the
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mechanisation of the textile industry. Tasks
together in a single cotton mill, and the factory
IT IS SMALL enough to be held in your hand and looks like an unremarkable chunk of metal
Ford mastered the moving assembly line and ushered in the age of mass production. The first
perforated with tiny holes, but it is fiendishly hard to make. That is because it must spin
two industrial revolutions made people richer and more urban. Now a third revolution is
12,000 times a minute under high pressure at a temperature of 1,600°C, 200°C above the melting point of the material it is made from. And it must survive that twisting inferno long
under way. Manufacturing is going digital. As this week's special report
enough to propel an airliner for 24m km (15m miles) before being replaced. In all, 66 of these stubby blades are used in the rear turbine of a RollsRoyce Trent 1000 engine, and the
(http://www.economist.com/node/21552901) argues, this could change not just business,
British company makes hundreds of thousands of these blades a year.
but much else besides.
American and European firms have sought salvation in highend manufacturing from the onslaught of lowcost producers. That increasingly involves becoming more inventive with
A number of remarkable technologies are converging: clever software, novel materials, more
materials. This article will look at a number of such innovations, including the special casting system for the RollsRoyce turbine blades as well as the use of carbon fibre, recycled
dexterous robots, new processes (notably three-dimensional printing) and a whole range of
As developing countries become richer and more
products: Ford famously said that car-buyers could have any colour they liked, as long as it
sophisticated, they too want to make things like aircraft, jet
was black. But the cost of producing much smaller batches of a wider variety, with each
engines and highperformance sports cars. In some cases Western firms subcontract part of the production work to firms
product tailored precisely to each customer's whims, is falling. The factory of the future will
in countries trying to build up the capabilities of their
focus on mass customisation—and may look more like those weavers' cottages than Ford's assembly line. Towards a third dimension
A third industrial revolution
Forging ahead Solid print Layer by layer
For RollsRoyce, turbine blades are one of those key
All together now
technologies. The magic that creates them depends on a
Making the future
technology. When metals solidify after casting they normally contain lots of microscopic crystals. That would still leave
Erasmus 55 mins ago
French politics: From Sarkoleaks to Sarkogate
Daily chart: Fukushima at three Graphic detail 1 hour 37 mins ago
which creates a solid object by building up successive layers of material. The digital design
weakness in a turbine blade. So RollsRoyce uses a unique system which casts the blade in a nickelbased superalloy
can be tweaked with a few mouseclicks. The 3D printer can run unattended, and can make
with a continuous and unbroken crystalline structure. This
many things which are too complex for a traditional factory to handle. In time, these
ensures there will be no structural defects. 1/3
http://www.economist.com/node/21552895
Gulliver 2 hours 9 mins ago
Difference Engine: The end of trust Babbage 2 hours 11 mins ago
Buttonwood's notebook 2 hours 49 mins ago
Americas view 3 hours 25 mins ago
Agence France-Presse Wednesday 25 May 2016 03.49 BST
Adidas, the German maker of sportswear and equipment, has announced it will start marketing its first series of shoes manufactured by robots in Germany from 2017. More than 20 years after Adidas ceased production activities in Germany and moved them to Asia, chief executive Herbert Hainer unveiled to the press the group’s new prototype “Speedfactory” in Ansbach, southern Germany. The 4,600-square-metre plant is still being built but Adidas opened it to the press, pledging to automate shoe production – which is currently done mostly by hand in Asia – and enable the shoes to be made more quickly and closer to its sales outlets. The factory will deliver a first test set of around 500 pairs of shoes from the third quarter of 2016. Large-scale production will begin in 2017 and Adidas was planning a second “Speed Factory” in the United States in the same year, said Hainer.
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Motor sports
Company unveils new factory in Germany that will use machines to make shoes instead of humans in Asia
Hipsters are the honeytrap, the property industry’s stimulus package; that doesn’t mean they get to eat all the honey. That sticky privilege belongs to landlords, to property developers, to local councillors moving seamlessly into well-paid jobs in “development consultancy” – in the end, not to young white men with beards, but middle-aged white men in suits.
Formula One racing Sport
Reboot: Adidas to make shoes in Germany again – but using robots
Technology is changing the nature of the jobs we do and the way we do them. What does that mean for the future of work?
Capitalism can’t get enough of hipsters and creatives; not least because it needs them to sustain itself – a revealing press release I found issued by a “hipster property agent” earlier this year began: “Hipster boutiques and eateries are sliding further into the City [of London] … there’s a growing appetite for independent shops and cafes. This is driven in part by people’s obsessions with London’s creative scene and a growing apathy for identikit high streets and mainstream brands.”
Demography and inequality: Back to the 19th century
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Radiology’s Growth
Young creatives, a senior property executive told me last year, have become the holy grail for every developer and local council: “It’s that magical something that [London boroughs] all want. They all want IT businesses and they all want creative industries, because it gives them that young, hip vibe. People take it very seriously, because it creates value.” They are the ultimate lure for investors – but they are only the next victims in the gentrification process, their creativity, energy and youth commodified, before they are then squeezed out of their independent shops and studios by bigger retail and commercial interests, and their homes by richer tenants, when the next phase begins.
Malaysia Airlines flight MH370: In the dark
Sources & acknowledgments
Tech for an Aging Workforce
Their role in the transformation of an area is summarised in this absolutely perfect cartoon by Grayson Perry. They are the anonymous bogeymen and women of modern urban culture, gentrification’s eccentrically dressed vanguard – the first to arrive, in advance of the main army: but they are not the commanding officers, and they will be the first to be killed off (or moved into new warehouse studios in Zone 3). In medieval England, the vanguard would be accompanied by harbingers, the people responsible for finding lodgings for the full army when they arrived. Sort of medieval estate agents.
Charlemagne 55 mins ago
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them strong enough for most things, but it is a potential
HR by Algorithm
There is a revealing truth here that bears repeating: no one ever self-identifies as a hipster. Hipsters are an easy target, but often the wrong target; an offloading point for the neuroses of a cultural (and generational) majority within the metropolitan white middle-class. They are a vessel for the resentment of not understanding, not being cool enough, not being young enough to get it. More importantly, they are a short-cut to “the Shaggy defence”, a way of sidestepping the need to acknowledge complicity – it wasn’t me! The hipsters did it!
Nuns and other Christians in Syria: Finally, a little good news
Back to making stuff The boomerang effect
industries, usually when those countries are placing big
deep understanding of materials science and production
The old way of making things involved taking lots of parts and screwing or welding them
Special report
orders. But some things are not for sharing because they are too important to preserve a product's competitive advantage.
together. Now a product can be designed on a computer and “printed” on a 3D printer,
http://www.economist.com/node/21553017/print
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plastic waste, new battery technology and others.
web-based services. The factory of the past was based on cranking out zillions of identical
Chinese Angst over Uber
The furore was reported on throughout the press. A lot of people announced their anger – but crucially, nobody went on to ask those people who can’t afford Cornflakes how they are surviving. Echoing the wave of solipsistic articles about “why I’m leaving London” earlier this year (executive summary: I’d like a bigger garden), it feels as if much of the gentrification debate is taking place inside a giant zorbing sphere, bouncing around London but to the complete exclusion of the people worst affected. It’s the same divided-city paradigm borne out in the 2011 riots, where two Londons live together, yet entirely separated from each other.
was born. The second industrial revolution came in the early 20th century, when Henry
The Future of Work
he original definition of gentrification, as coined by Ruth Glass in the 1960s, was not about extravagant beards, coffee houses and fixies – it concerned housing opportunities, and the lack of them: an area is being gentrified when the housing options of the middle-classes expand and those of working-class communities diminish, leading them to be displaced elsewhere. There is a cultural dimension to the process too, but it’s an accompaniment to the main event.
The furore over the opening of the cafe in late 2014 exemplified the problem with hipster-hating: that it is often little more than middle-class navel-gazing. The huge backlash to the viral Channel 4 report when it opened seemed to consist largely of white middle-class media workers railing against slightly younger, more fashionable versions of themselves. The premise of the report was: “There are so many poor people in east London, how can you sell boutique cereal for £4 a bowl when people down the road in Bethnal Green can’t afford a box of Cornflakes?”
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Productivity and Inequality
When the organisers of Saturday night’s “fuck parade” against gentrification announced their goal was to reclaim Shoreditch – at this stage, a bit like closing the stable door after the horse has opened an artisan sugar cube pop-up inside – it was little surprise that one of the targets turned out to be the Cereal Killer cafe.
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THE first industrial revolution began in Britain
The Big Question
BUSINESS REPORT
Places like the Cereal Killer cafe are just part of the gentrification process. Developers and councillors will soon exploit them and price them out
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Apr 21st 2012 | From the print edition
Never mind the hipsters. It’s the property developers who are ruining our cities Dan Hancox
Gentrification London
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Hainer insisted the factories would not immediately replace the work of sub-contractors in Asia. “Our goal is not full automatisation,” said Gerd Manz, head of innovation and
JOSH COCHRAN
World politics
Special report: Manufacturing and innovation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
1
proportion of new residences where the non-conventional housing, or housing set aside as residences for employees of the companies will take precedence. Ajuntament
Similarly, other uses that could be considered as installations and services, such as retail, sport, hotels, residential, etc, will complete the fabric. The configuration of a fabric of a central nature that could include this complex of uses must be provided with a density that guarantees perfect functioning, with strong interaction between the activities that comprise the productive and residential fabric and at the same time ensure its sustainability.
de Barcelona
Urban Planning Department
The proposed transformation will not occur in a conventional manner by sectors changing the urban form of the whole fabric, but by a range of scales of action that go from building on existing land, the reorganisation of a single block and right through to the transformation of axes or strategic areas that affect several city blocks. The superimposition of actions on these different scales will have to provide the contents of the proposed activities at a gradual rate. The most direct references of urban scenarios where processes of location of these activities have taken place correspond to centralised and compact urban models, as opposed to the more extensive and peripheral business parks. Chelsea in New York, Bangalore in India and Hoxton in London are some of the examples of the model in question. Building types are moving away from the traditional industrial building of a single story and extensive horizontal occupation. They look for multistoried models that allow for better layout of production spaces, make it possible to locate mobility and loading problems on the inside as well as other services and, at the same time, ensure a more urban image.
MODIFICATION OF THE PGM (General Municipal Plan) FOR THE RENOVATION OF THE INDUSTRIAL AREAS OF POBLENOU
These building types obviously require a higher building intensity than that required on industrial estates.
22@BCN ACTIVITY DISTRICT
The existence of the Cerdá grid as a support structure has meant that the transformation instruments can be based on the city block. Consequently, the study of a suitable building index has been carried out on the city block, specifically the net building index applicable to plots of land.
Amalgamated text LEGAL NOTICE The definitive legal text regarding the Modification of the General Plan corresponds to the original text in Catalan. This translation is the result of the intention of Barcelona City Council to divulge the contents of the proposed modification. This document is intended to provide information only , and does not constitute a legal document. Barcelona, September 2000
The verification of organisation models suitable for the types to be developed work with net building indices that fluctuate between 2.5, 3 and 3.5m2 roof/m2 land. Even so, it would appear that these indices should only be established for transformation operations with the minimum of one block of land. This is because, not only will a good building rate be achieved with this dimension, it will also free up land for private logistic uses and public open spaces The existing distribution in the central urban expansion area supports very high net buildingdensities: Banc Atlàntic block Palau Robert block Pedrera block Pati de les Aigües block
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
6.1 m2 roof / m2 land 3.8 m2 roof / m2 land 4.5 m2 roof / m2 land 4.7 m2 roof / m2 land
The proposed densities for the Diagonal-Poble Nou Special Plan are slightly lower, but
proportion of new residences where the non-conventional housing, or housing set aside as residences for employees of the companies will take precedence. Ajuntament
PUBLIC FUNDS TO ATTRACT URBAN INDUSTRY
Similarly, other uses that could be considered as installations and services, such as retail, sport, hotels, residential, etc, will complete the fabric. The configuration of a fabric of a central nature that could include this complex of uses must be provided with a density that guarantees perfect functioning, with strong interaction between the activities that comprise the productive and residential fabric and at the same time ensure its sustainability.
de Barcelona
Urban Planning Department
The proposed transformation will not occur in a conventional manner by sectors changing the urban form of the whole fabric, but by a range of scales of action that go from building on existing land, the reorganisation of a single block and right through to the transformation of axes or strategic areas that affect several city blocks.
FACTORIES ARE COMING BACK TO CITIES
The superimposition of actions on these different scales will have to provide the contents of the proposed activities at a gradual rate. The most direct references of urban scenarios where processes of location of these activities have taken place correspond to centralised and compact urban models, as opposed to the more extensive and peripheral business parks. Chelsea in New York, Bangalore in India and Hoxton in London are some of the examples of the model in question. Building types are moving away from the traditional industrial building of a single story and extensive horizontal occupation. They look for multistoried models that allow for better layout of production spaces, make it possible to locate mobility and loading problems on the inside as well as other services and, at the same time, ensure a more urban image.
MODIFICATION OF THE PGM (General Municipal Plan) FOR THE RENOVATION OF THE INDUSTRIAL AREAS OF POBLENOU
E H T M O R F Y A W A MOVING G IN D IL U B L IA R T S U D TRADITIONAL IN
These building types obviously require a higher building intensity than that required on industrial estates.
22@BCN ACTIVITY DISTRICT
The existence of the Cerdá grid as a support structure has meant that the transformation instruments can be based on the city block. Consequently, the study of a suitable building index has been carried out on the city block, specifically the net building index applicable to plots of land.
Amalgamated text LEGAL NOTICE The definitive legal text regarding the Modification of the General Plan corresponds to the original text in Catalan. This translation is the result of the intention of Barcelona City Council to divulge the contents of the proposed modification. This document is intended to provide information only , and does not constitute a legal document. Barcelona, September 2000
The verification of organisation models suitable for the types to be developed work with net building indices that fluctuate between 2.5, 3 and 3.5m2 roof/m2 land. Even so, it would appear that these indices should only be established for transformation operations with the minimum of one block of land. This is because, not only will a good building rate be achieved with this dimension, it will also free up land for private logistic uses and public open spaces
CULTURAL EVENTS WITHIN FACTORIES
The existing distribution in the central urban expansion area supports very high net buildingdensities: Banc Atlàntic block Palau Robert block Pedrera block Pati de les Aigües block
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
6.1 m2 roof / m2 land 3.8 m2 roof / m2 land 4.5 m2 roof / m2 land 4.7 m2 roof / m2 land
The proposed densities for the Diagonal-Poble Nou Special Plan are slightly lower, but
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
1/5/2016
Inditex: Spain's fashion powerhouse you've probably never heard of | Fashion | The Guardian
12/28/2015
Inditex: Spain's fashion powerhouse you've probably never heard of
Matalan supplier among manufacturers in Bangladesh building collapse
The Observer is given rare access to the reticent multinational whose clothes have become a global high street phenomenon
Manufacturer housed in building that collapsed – killing at least 76 – previously supplied discount fashion chain
Sarah Butler
Syed Zain Al-Mahmood in Dhaka and Rebecca Smithers
Sunday 15 December 2013 00.04 GMT
Wednesday 24 April 2013 16.57 BST
O
At least 76 garment workers have been confirmed dead in Bangladesh after an eightstorey building containing clothing manufacturing units collapsed, officials say. It has been confirmed that one of the manufacturers has previously supplied the UK discount fashion chain Matalan.
n an unremarkable corner of Calle Juan Florez, a block away from the main shopping street in the Galician city of La Coruña, Christmas party outfits are dramatically lit in windows glinting with gold and mirrors.
The small Zara store, which winds around the doorway of an ageing office building that is also home to a firm of lawyers, was first opened in 1975 by Amancio Ortega, a local clothing manufacturer who had worked his way up from being a delivery boy at a shirtmakers.
Mohammed Neazuddin, Bangladesh's health secretary, confirmed the deaths of the 76 people, and police said hundreds more remained trapped under the rubble.
This is the seed that blossomed into Inditex, an empire that has shrugged off Spain's economic troubles to become the world's largest fashion retailer, with more than 6,400 stores in 86 markets and a rapidly growing online business. More than 120,000 people work for the company, 4,400 of them at the HQ near its La Coruña birthplace. Ortega himself, 77 and still on the board, is now the third-richest person in the world, according to Forbes, with a net worth of $57bn (£35bn). Inditex is valued at €69bn (£58bn) on the stock market but is still growing so fast that it is about to double the size of its head office in Arteixo, Galicia, for the second time since it opened in 2000. The building is also the headquarters of Zara, Inditex's biggest chain. The company's seven other brands, including Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho, Pull & Bear and Uterqüe, have their own headquarters dotted around Spain, some near Barcelona and others further south. In Arteixo, Inditex still manufactures and designs its own clothing to an almost unique system created to put the customer in charge. Ortega, who has a majority stake in the company, is highly protective of his personal privacy and hardly ever photographed. He does not speak to the press. However, he is well known at the company headquarters, going in nearly every day to discuss everything from property to fashion with Inditex staffers at all levels. But the culture of secrecy means that only a handful of journalists have been allowed behind the wall of blue-mirrored windows which give the Arteixo offices the feel of a Bond villain-style lair, albeit one nestled between a fish factory and a power station.
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/dec/15/inditex-spain-global-fashion-powerhouse
1/5/2016
Table of contents
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Fast fashion's fickle market demands manufacturers closer to home | Guardian Sustainable Business | The Guardian
Esha Chhabra Tuesday 25 August 2015 17.04 BST
H&M, one of the world’s largest fast fashion brands, has launched a €1m ($1.16m) recycling prize in an effort to engage innovators, technologists, scientists and entrepreneurs to find a solution to a growing problem in the clothing industry: waste and pollution.
But increasingly, observant European consumers are finding a new collection of countries on the label of their fast fashion finds – countries that are a lot closer to home. A number of factors are pushing major fast fashion chains to start expanding their production chains beyond Asia and into eastern Europe, including the benefit of being close to European retail markets and simplifying their supply chains. When a country such as Turkey, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia or Bulgaria appears on a label, the brand may also get a boost to their reputation, as consumers assume the ethics behind a skirt made in Portugal are better than those behind one made in China (though this isn’t necessarily the case).
The Swedish brand’s foundation, the H&M Conscious Foundation, announced the Global Challenge Award to “catalyse green, truly groundbreaking ideas” that will “protect the earth’s natural resources by closing the loop for fashion”. It’s a clever move from the fashion giant. The challenge has public appeal (it’s open to anyone with an early stage idea) and it will bring attention to an important issue for the fashion industry. But critics question whether the company is side stepping the knottier issues of overproduction and worker rights by emphasising materials innovation and technology – especially when recycling the mixed fibres so common in fast fashion is proving tricky.
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This year’s highlights 10 Commercial presence 12 Retail formats 14 Evolution of main indicators 20
Creating economic and social value 28
Traceability of the supply chain 32 Integrity of the supply chain 36 The quality of our products 58 Efficient use of resources 70 Developing everybody’s talent 80 Innovation in customer services 94
Why fast fashion is slow death for the planet
Contribution to community welfare 98
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation Corporate governance 114
According to Erik Bang, project manager for the Global Change Award, the impetus behind the competition is that “change is not happening fast enough”. A prize of this size and nature is a first in the fashion industry, he says. People are not going to stop buying clothes, he says, “however, the fashion industry requires large amounts of natural resources, lots of which can be reduced, recycled, substituted or eliminated”. Rebecca Earley, professor in sustainable textiles at the University of Arts London, is one of the judges. She agrees that the fashion industry needs change and quickly. “The industry is under pressure to adhere to unrealistic margins and speeds; and customers http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2015/aug/25/hms-1m-recycling-prize-clever-overproduction-fast-fashion
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Disaster at Rana Plaza | The Economist
Corporate social responsibility
Disaster at Rana Plaza A gruesome accident should make all bosses think harder about what behaving responsibly means
Lucy Siegle Sunday 8 May 2011 00.07 BST
May 4th 2013 | From the print edition
E
very morning when I wake up I am confronted by my fashion history. Mistakes, corrections, good buys, bad buys, comfort buys, drunk buys: they refuse to go away. This is because my wardrobe is opposite my bed, and the door, like a broken zipper, will no longer pull across to hide the tale of excess. In the cold light of day many of the micro trends I've "invested in" – T-shirts with chains, a one-shouldered jumpsuit, and other designer lookalike items – merge to form a type of sartorial wasteland. My collection is testament to the extraordinary way we now consume clothes. And I don't have to come around to your house and have a look to make a good guess at what you've got in your cupboards, because over the past decade and a half not only have we bought more at increasing speed, but our tastes have become increasingly homogenised. If your clothing journey follows not only fashion trends but consumer trends, you'll find you have only a small amount of formal wear and a similarly small amount of office wear compared to a decade ago. Instead, you'll have hangers and shelves and drawers full of home and leisurewear, and there's likely to be evidence that you've bought into some strange new apparel categories, such as luxe loungewear. The most ubiquitous item is likely to be the T-shirt, along with its close relation the skinny-ribbed vest. You now demand roughly four times the number of clothes you would have in 1980. You will spend at least £625 a year on clothes – but remember that's just the average. And you are getting a lot of bang for your buck. In one year you'll accumulate in the region of 28kg of clothing – adding up to an estimated 1.72m tonnes of brand-new fashion being consumed on an annual basis in the UK. But the really arresting thing is that almost the same quantity of fashion that you buy will end up being dumped prematurely in the rubbish bin.
THE collapse of an eight-storey garment factory in Rana Plaza on the outskirts of Dhaka on April 24th killed at least 400 people and injured many more. It was probably the worst industrial accident in South Asia since the Bhopal disaster in 1984, and the worst ever in the garment industry. Local police and an industry association had warned that the building was unsafe (see article (http://www.economist.com/news/asia/21577124-tragedyshows-need-radical-improvement-building-standards-rags-ruins) ). The owners reportedly responded by threatening to fire people who did not carry on working as usual. Much of the blame lies with Bangladeshi governments of all stripes, which have made only rudimentary attempts to enforce the national building code, especially against politically well-connected landlords. With luck, the laws will now be applied, but nobody expects much. The spotlight is therefore on the multinational companies whose orders from local factory owners have led to the rapid recent growth of the garment industry in Bangladesh, the world’s second-largest exporter of clothing after China. Familiar brands now stand accused of exploiting poorly paid workers with a callous indifference to their safety. Two companies whose products were found in the rubble at Rana Plaza—Primark, a cheap British label, and
Our ways of buying fashion and our relationship with the garments we own started changing in the mid-1980s. By 2005, academic research was picking up on the salient points. Louise R Morgan and Grete Birtwistle set up eight consumer focus groups, surveying 71 women about their purchasing habits. Nearly all confessed to spending more than they used to, but what's really notable is that they had absolutely no plan as to how long they intended to keep any of their purchases. They also admitted that when "cheap" fashion tore or became stained, its likely destination was not the washbasket, but the rubbish bin. The old way of buying clothes, in harmony with one's income and the seasons, the way people wore, washed carefully and darned, has nothing in common with the way we now consume. http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/may/08/fast-fashion-death-for-planet
The €1m prize money will be dispersed among five winners chosen by a judging panel – including academics such as Johan Rockström, Vogue Italia’s editor and a fashion model – each of whom will receive €100,000. The other €500,000 will be shared between winners after a public vote. Winners will also take part in a one year innovation bootcamp in Stockholm, organised jointly by Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology, where the winners can test out early-stage ideas and see if they have the power to scale.
1/6/2016
Why fast fashion is slow death for the planet | Fashion | The Guardian
With high-street chains churning out fresh designs every few weeks, we now buy more cheap clothes than ever before. But as Lucy Siegle reveals in her hard-hitting new book To Die For, it's a trend that will cost us far more than we imagine
Sustainable development at Inditex 24
H&M's $1m recycling prize is clever but no solution to fast fashion | Guardian Sustainable Business | The Guardian
Sponsored by: Philips
A spokesman for Inditex said: “Inditex has always sourced a large proportion of its
Letter from the Chairman 8
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The retail giant’s foundation is calling for innovative solutions to waste and pollution but critics say it’s just a way to keep the wheels of fast fashion spinning
Mention the phrase “fast fashion” and most people will think of a scratchy high street sweater with one of a predictable trio of countries listed on the inside label: Cambodia, China, or Bangladesh.
30
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/apr/24/bangladesh-building-collapse-kills-garment-workers
Rosie Spinks
http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2014/dec/11/fast-fashions-fickle-market-demands-manufacturers-closer-to-home
22
Matalan describes itself on its website as being "one of the UK's leading clothing and homeware retailers, offering quality fashion and homeware at up to half the equivalent high-street price".
H&M's $1m recycling prize is clever but no solution to fast fashion
This Europe-centric approach – the company calls this its “proximity model” – allows the chain to frequently restock its stores and respond to a fickle market at will, with store managers constantly reporting back on what’s selling and what’s not. Being able to alter what it is producing and in what quantities so quickly gives brands an advantage over chains that have to provide a longer lead time to Asian factories, and then wait for their goods to be transported.
6
A spokeswoman for Matalan, which has 212 stores in the UK selling fashion for men, women and children, and homeware, said: "We can confirm that New Wave has been a supplier to Matalan, although we don't have any current production with them. We are deeply saddened by the news and we have been trying to get in touch with our contacts since we heard to check if we are able to assist them."
Labels now cite European countries as high street retailers find benefits in a simple, local supply chain
Thursday 11 December 2014 07.00 GMT
our priorities
Among the businesses in the collapsed building in Savar were New Wave – which has two garment factories there, New Wave Style and New Wave Bottoms – and Phantom Apparels Ltd.
Fast fashion's fickle market demands manufacturers closer to home
Inditex can perhaps be credited for proving the efficacy of basing fast fashion production in Europe. The company, which has brands including Zara and Pull&Bear, states that more than 50% of its clothes are produced in Spain (where it is headquartered) or surrounding nations such as Portugal and Morocco. The remainder is produced in “clusters” around the world, including Turkey, China, and Latin America.
sustainability strateGy
Bangladeshi army units and fire service personnel are conducting rescue operations with help from local volunteers. A fire service official said they had rescued about 1,000 people from under the rubble.
1/5/2016
“There are a number of factors providing an incentive to look to Europe for production, such as minimum-wage increases in Asia and political instability and commercial instability in response to major safety incidences like the collapse of Rana Plaza,” says Hannah Smith, media and outreach manager for the UK-based NGO Labour Behind the Label.
year review
The building, in Savar, about 12 miles north of Dhaka, the capital, collapsed at 9am on Wednesday morning, after production had started at the building. An official at a nearby hospital where most of the injured were taken said most of the dead appeared to be female workers.
Dilara Begum, a garment worker who survived the accident, said workers had been ordered to leave after a crack appeared in the wall of the building on Tuesday, but on Wednesday morning supervisors had asked them to return to work, saying the building had been inspected and declared safe.
The Observer is the first British newspaper to be allowed a close look at how this
INDITEX ANNUAL REPORT 2015
Matalan supplier among manufacturers in Bangladesh building collapse | World news | The Guardian
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Canada’s Loblaw, whose brands include Joe Fresh—have rapidly promised compensation to victims and their families. But it goes deeper than that. Clothing companies, after all have been to the fore in “corporate social responsibility” (CSR). Prompted by earlier scandals over working conditions in farflung factories, firms like Nike and Gap have strived to deal with problems like child labour. Now the disaster in Dhaka shows how hard it is to claim that your products are “ethically sourced”. That is not just because supply lines are stretched: should you check the supplier of your supplier’s supplier? It is also because you are operating in a place where so little is to be http://www.economist.com/node/21577067/print
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DESIGN BRIEF.
Design a garment factory for Zara, which responds to the problematics highlighted in the research by creating a positive urban symbiosis.
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
1_ Research _ inspiration _ historical perspective _ problem statement _ research question
2_ Methodology
3_ Design
_ motivation _ validity _ constraints _ output
_ design concept _ urban positioning _ visualisations _ technical details
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
n me wo 1 22
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Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
COMPLEMENTARY SPACES PRODUCTION SPACES FACORY SPACE
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EDUCATION
s u od ho go are w 79 20 se
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GREEN AREAS
REFECTROY
2 CAFE
FACORY SPACE x=135 meters
y= 104 meters
PRODUCTION SPACES 1 WAREHOUSING_63 x 39 m= 2457 m2 2 PRESSING_ 52 x 24 m= 1248 m2 3 SEWING_ 52 x 24 m= 1248 m2 4 SEWING_ 52 x 24 m= 1248 m2
5 SEWING_ 52 x 24 m= 1248 m2 6 CUTTING_52 x 24 m= 1248 m2
7 QUALITY CONTROL _ 24 x 31 m= 1248 m2 8 SHIPPING_ 8 x 24 m= 744 m2
COMPLEMENTARY SPACES 1 REFECTORY 27 x 22 m= 648 m2 2
2 CAFE_ 23 x 15 m= 345 m
3 GREEN ARE 18 x 20 m= 360 m2
4 EDUCATION 8,5 X 29 m= 246 m2
2
5 GREEN AREA 46 x 7,5 m= 345 m 2
6 OFFICE_5 x 71 m= 355 m
7 EDUCATION_ 23 x 23 m= 529 m2 2
8 EDUCATION_ 23 x 23 m= 529 m 2
9 OFFICE 4x 10 m= 40 m
10 SPORT 18 x 36 m= 648 m2
2
11 GREEN AREA 18 x 20 m= 360 m
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
VOLUMETRIC MASSING
MASSING STEP 1
MASSING STEP 2
MASSING STEP 3
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
MASSING STEP 4
SPATIAL CONDITIONS
PROGRAMMATIC EXERCISE
COMMERCIAL CENTRE
OFFICES
HOTELS
UNIVERSITIES
industrial heritage
functional analysis
circulation systems
industrial heritage
exposure potential
COMMERCIAL
LAS GLORIES
TORRE AGBAR NOVOTEL
COMMERCIAL CENTRE
OFFICES
HOTELS
UNIVERSITIES
NOVOTEL
RESEARCH
CAN FERMIS
TURISM UNIVERSIDAD P.F. MEDIA ICT AM. CATALUNYA
OFFICES
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
industrial heritage
1_ Research _ inspiration _ historical perspective _ problem statement _ research question
2_ Methodology
3_ Design
_ motivation _ validity _ constraints _ output
_ design concept _ urban positioning _ visualisations _ technical details
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
PRINTING
RESTAURANT
CUTTING
CUSTOMISATION
MANAGEMENT
SEWING
LIBRARY REPAIR POINT
WASHING PRESSING
AUDITORIUM
DRY CLEAN
FINISHING
OFFICES FACTORY STORE
FACORY SPACE
PUBLIC SPACE
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
OFFICE SPACE
Hispano - Olivetti
3 Universitat Barcelona
Pompeu Fabra university
Can Framis museum
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Hispano - Olivetti
3 Universitat Barcelona
Pompeu Fabra university
Can Framis museum
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
Federico Riches/ Design as politics/ P5 presentation
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