A study on pleating polyester by Designskolen Kolding

M A T E R I A L N A R R A T I V E S

B5.03 Pine cone

S T U D Y

O F

P L E A T I N G

P O LY E S T E R

M A T E R I A L N A R R A T I V E S

In the Material Narratives project, I work with manipulating polyester using pleated molds made of cardboard. In my approach, I have chosen to primarily use polyester, as it is possible to wash without the pleats disappearing, as in they would do in animal and nature materials. In addition, polyester has a high abrasion resistance, which makes it usable for many different products such as clothing and interiors. The materials have different properties which are essential for the pleats’ final expression. In this abstraction book you will find the results of my work and highlights of some of the pleats that I find interesting. In my analysis of the experiments, I have made sample cards to create an overview. I saw the cards as a dialogue tool in the future format as an opportunity and as an opportunity to make the properties visible.

STUDENT: CHARLOT TE HANSEN MAIL: CHARLOT TE _ HANSEN@DSKD.DK MOBILE: +45 30 70 92 85

C O N T E N T S

Kare n Grigorian

What is important in the development of pleats?

Mate rial Craft and Tools

Form and Format

Colours and Conte xt

Colours with Bafixan

Patte rning from multiple angle s

Transpe re ns

10-1

Optical illusion across mate rials

Analysis of e xpe rime nts

13 -24

K A R E N

G R I G O R I A N

Big thanks to Karen Grigorian to be my mentor and sparring in my training around the pleats. He is a huge inspiration as a craftsman and entrepreneur that I can learn a lot from. I visited him in Paris for three weeks in November 2019. Here we found out that even though my French is not very good, we have a common understanding of the craft and that there are many ways to communicate.

https://www.annelaurecamilleri.com/Corporate-Entreprises/Maison-du-Pli-Paris-19e/i-gvMJZVL

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

W H AT I S I M P O R TA N T I N T H E D E V E L O P M E N T O F P L E AT S ?

M a t e r i a l s C r a f t a n d t o o l s

C o l o r s a n d c o n t e x t

F o r m

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

F o r m a t

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

M AT E R I A L S ,

C R A F T

A N D

T O O L S

The properties of the polyester as fabric before pleating and of the pleating molds strongly influence the expression of the fabric samples in the end. If you compare the two transparent fabrics in the bottom and their shapes, there is big difference in the density of the pattern of the pleat and how open the pleat is, which is due to the weight / fall and how sharp folds it is possible to make in the fabric. There is difference in how much it is possible to compress the molds around the fabric during the work. With the bricks mold, I have e xpe rienced that the more the molds were used and the thinner the fabric, the easier it was to press the mold together.

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B4.02

B3.02

B1.02

B5.02 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

F O R M AT

A N D

F O R M

The fabric samples I have chosen to make is about 40 x 60 cm. This size was chosen to be able to demonstrate the weight, the fall and the woven construction of the polyester fabrics. For the experiments and in future collaborations this is important to consider, as this can change the properties in the end. A good example is the Accordion in heavy satin. This test, I see great opportunities to use for curtains. However, if it is to be used as pleated curtains, as we know from many private homes, it will probably become too heavy if it is over 100 cm in height. If, on the other hand, it ‘stands’ and is used as ordinary curtains, it can keep its shape even if it is increased in height.

Then format and form go hand in hand with polyester properties.

B4.01 7

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B4.01 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

C O L O R S

A N D

C O N T E X T

In documenting the experiments, I have taken pictures in high sunshine in a n attempt to document the properties of the samples. In the process, I discovered the many nuances found in white materials and the importance of the angles of the fabric. Both in terms of comparing different fabrics but also in exploring the individual sample. I experienced that the materials immediately started to talk to the buildings that were in the background and sometimes I could not help but take pictures with the architecture in the background.

B5.03

B4.02 8

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B5.02

B5.01 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

C O L O R S

W I T H

B A F I X A N

At the beginning of my project, I wanted to work with colors as prints, but along the w ay it dawned on me how m any details and elements played into the aesthetics and composition of the pleats. Therefore, this time I chose not to work further with Bafixan print as seen in the pictures here. There is here is definitely a gold group to be found here that I later look forward to working with.

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B1.03

B2.03

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

PAT T E R N I N G

F R O M

M U LT I P L E

A N G L E S

In these pictures you see Bricks in lining as material from several angles which gives very different expressions. While photographing the pleats, I tried to be structured and take pictures from the same angles. And I made sure that the fabric lay and hung in the same way to have a similar basis to be able to look like the samples in the end. But I was drawn to the fabric and just had to take pictures from several angles to make sure the fabric came into its right and was pictured as I saw and experienced it in the moment.

B5.02

B5.02 10

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B5.02

B5.02 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

T R A N S P E R E N S The structure and pleating are very evident in any of the transparent materials that cast a patterned shadow. I have set up a number of the transparent pleats and grouped them into materials so that they can be visually compared. Notice how the play of colors in the picture changes in the light.

B5.02 11

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B5.03

B5.04

B5.05 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

Notice how the play of colors in the picture changes in the light. On this page you will find the same molds used as on the previous page but done in Voile. There is a big difference between the openness of the pleats and the shadow that is cast off.

B5.05

B1.02 12

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B1.03

B1.04

B5.05 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

O P T I C A L

I L L U S I O N

A C R O S S

M AT E R I A L S

In photographing the experiments, I quickly discovered that both the angle of the light and my own angle as a viewer of the pleats evoked surprising illusions for me. In the encounter with materials, the light swallows up some of the details, where others appear as new patterns in the transparent. Here in the pictures you see Bricks and Accordion pleats in different materials, which in their own way highlight the pleating pattern. Here in the pictures you see Bricks and Accordion pleats in different materials, which in their own way highlight the pleating pattern. Pictured far right is similar to the style that appears as an I which reminds me of my childhood in the library, where I sat with great pleasure and look for motives with optical illusion.

B3.01 13

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

B4.02

B2.01

B5.02 CHARLOT TE HANSEN

A N A LY S I S

O F

E X P E R I M E N T S

In my study of the samples, I put the pictures up on a map to visualize some of the features and started noting what I saw. It has developed into a set of cards that I think in the future can be used in dialogue with new partners.

STREAMS B1.05

Associations

Characteristics

Technicalities

friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing shallow water, rippling water, rhythm opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

STREAM B1.05

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

density: open / closed shape: organisk/geometric light absorbent/non absorbent formstable/ unstable colours: clear/un clear changing hue: many / few surface: regular/inregular finish: curly/smooth folds: sharp/round shapeable/un shapeable

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

S A M P E L

O V E RV I E W

ACCORDION 01

BRICKS 02

PINE CONE 03

ZIG ZAG 04

STREAMS 05

B1 Voile 132g, 100% polyester

b1.01

b1.02

b1.03

b1.04

b1.05

b2 Japanese non woven 100 % polyester

b2.01

b2.02

b2.03

b2.04

b2.05

b3.04

b3.05

FORM FABRIC

b3 Canvas 60 % polyester 40 % cotton

b3.01

b3.02

E T H G I N K I N M A

b4 Heavy satin 100 % polyester

b4.01

b4.02

b4.03

b4.04

b4.05

b5 Inter lining 100 % polyester

b5.01

b5.02

b5.03

b5.04

b5. 05

b6 Curtains voile 100 % polyester b7 Foil jersey 176g, 95 % polyester 5 % elastan b8 Stretch smock 233g, 100 % polyester b9 Georgette 100 % polyester

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

b6.03 b7.02

I N

E H T

b6.05

N G I K A M b8.05 b9.04

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

accordion 01

B1.01

B2.01

B3.01

B4.01

B5.01

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

floating, dreamy 2 1 4 1

le klint lampshades 4 5 5 3

X-ray effekt, geometric 3 4 4 3

pleated curtains, optical illusion 3 5 3 2

le klint lampshades, teasing pattern 3 1 4 1

5 4 4 5 1 1 5 1 1 4

4 5 5 5 1 5 1 2 1 1

1 2 1 3 2 2 2 4 2 3

1 5 5 4 5 2 3 5 2 4

4 4 2 5 1 4 2 3 1 4

2 5 4 5 1 1 1 1 2 2

4 5 2 1 1 1 1 5 1 4

2 4 2 2 1 4 2 4 3 4

3 3 1 2 2 2 2 4 5 3

4 5 4 4 4 1 3 2 2 2

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Kvaliteten af materialet er beskrevet i Sample Overview, så det er muligt at se sammensætning af form og materiale. I analysen her, har jeg opstillet en skala, hvor hver enkelt prøve vurderet ud fra en skala 1-5. Det første ord er 1 og det sidste ord er 5. Eksempel: friendly 1

unfriendly 2

Technicalities density: open / closed shape: organisk/geometric light absorbent/non absorbent formstable/ unstable colours: clean / dusty changing hue: many / few surface: regular/inregular finish: curly/smooth folds: sharp/round shapeable/un shapeable

Application individual 16

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

bricks 02

B1.02

B2.02

B3.02

B4.02

B5.02

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

science fiction rooms

tiles, optical illusion

tiles, traks

soundboards, 3D, optical illusion

checkered, typography, optical illusion

2 1 4 1

3 4 4 3

3 3 3 3

2 2 4 2

2 2 5 2

5 4 1 5 1 1 5 2 1 4

4 5 5 4 1 4 3 2 5 1

1 2 1 5 2 2 4 4 3 2

1 5 5 4 5 2 3 5 2 4

4 4 2 5 1 1 5 2 5 2

2 4 4 4 1 1 2 5 3 1

5 4 3 1 1 2 4 3 4 4

1 3 2 5 1 4 4 2 4 2

2 4 1 2 2 2 2 4 5 3

1 5 4 1 4 1 1 4 2 2

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 17

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

B1.03

B2.03

B3.03

B4.03

B5.03

I M N A T K H IN E G

pine cone 03

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

arrows, sound waves

spider web

dragon skin, X-ray look, 3D

ham change from snake, pine cone

1 1 2 1

3 5 5 3

3 5 5 1

3 5 5 2

5 4 2 5 1 1 5 2 1 4

4 5 5 4 1 5 1 2 5 1

1 5 5 2 5 2 4 5 4 4

5 4 2 5 1 2 3 2 5 2

2 2 4 2 1 2 2 4 2 2

5 5 2 1 1 2 1 5 1 4

4 4 1 4 2 3 2 4 5 2

2 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 4

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 18

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

zig zag 04

B1.04

B2.04

B3.04

B4.04

B5.04

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

tractor track

folded baking paper

folded ribbon on top of fabric

tractor track, X-ray look

hidden bowtie, folded ribbon

1 1 2 1

3 2 5 2

3 3 3 3

3 5 5 4

2 2 5 2

5 4 2 5 1 1 5 2 1 4

4 5 5 5 1 5 3 2 5 1

1 2 1 5 2 2 2 4 4 2

1 4 5 5 5 1 5 5 2 2

5 4 2 5 1 2 3 2 5 2

2 2 4 2 1 2 2 4 2 2

5 5 2 1 1 2 1 5 1 4

4 4 2 4 1 4 2 2 2 4

4 5 1 4 3 2 1 5 5 3

5 5 4 4 4 2 2 4 1 4

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 19

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

streams 05

B1.05

B2.05

B3.05

B4.05

B5.05

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

shallow water, rippling water

rhythm

X-ray effekt, geometric

rippling water

2 1 2 1

3 2 3 3

3 4 3 3

4 5 5 4

2 1 4 3

5 4 1 5 1 1 5 1 1 4

4 5 5 4 1 4 3 2 5 1

1 2 1 5 2 2 2 4 4 3

1 4 5 5 5 1 5 5 4 4

5 4 3 3 1 1 3 1 4 2

4 2 4 4 1 1 1 5 3 1

5 2 3 1 1 2 1 5 1 4

3 4 2 4 1 4 2 4 3 4

4 5 1 4 3 2 1 5 5 3

5 5 4 5 4 1 1 1 2 3

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 20

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

b1 voile

B1.01

B1.02

B1.03

B1.04

B1.05

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

floating, dreamy

science fiction rooms

arrows, sound waves

tractor track

shallow water, rippling water

2 1 4 1

1 1 2 1

2 1 2 1

5 4 4 5 1 1 5 1 1 4

5 4 1 5 1 1 5 2 1 4

5 4 2 5 1 1 5 2 1 4

5 4 1 5 1 1 5 1 1 4

2 5 4 5 1 1 1 1 2 2

2 4 4 4 1 1 2 5 3 1

2 2 4 2 1 2 2 4 2 2

4 2 4 4 1 1 1 5 3 1

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 21

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

b2 Japanese

B2.01

B2.02

B2.03

B2.04

B2.05

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

le klint lampshades

tiles, optical illusion

spider web

folded baking paper

rhythm

4 5 5 3

3 4 4 3

3 5 5 3

3 2 5 2

3 2 3 3

4 5 5 5 1 5 1 2 1 1

4 5 5 4 1 4 3 2 5 1

4 5 5 4 1 5 1 2 5 1

4 5 5 5 1 5 3 2 5 1

4 5 5 4 1 4 3 2 5 1

4 5 2 1 1 1 1 5 1 4

5 4 3 1 1 2 4 3 4 4

5 5 2 1 1 2 1 5 1 4

5 2 3 1 1 2 1 5 1 4

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 22

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

B3.01

B3.02

B3.03

B3.04

B3.05

I M N A T K H IN E G

b3 canvas

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

X-ray effekt, geometric

tiles, optical illusion

folded ribbon on top of fabric

X-ray effekt, geometric

3 4 4 3

3 3 3 3

3 4 3 3

1 2 1 3 2 2 2 4 2 3

1 2 1 5 2 2 4 4 3 2

1 2 1 5 2 2 2 4 4 2

1 2 1 5 2 2 2 4 4 3

2 4 2 2 1 4 2 4 3 4

1 3 2 5 1 4 4 2 4 2

4 4 2 4 1 4 2 2 2 4

3 4 2 4 14 2 4 3 4

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 23

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

b4 heavy satin

B4.01

B4.02

B4.03

B4.04

B4.05

Associations individual

pleated curtains, optical illusion

friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

soundboards, 3D, optical illusion

dragon skin, X-ray look, 3D

tractor track, X-ray look

X-ray effekt, geometric

3 5 3 2

2 2 4 2

3 5 5 1

3 5 5 4

2 1 4 3

1 5 5 4 5 2 3 5 2 4

1 5 5 2 5 2 4 5 4 4

1 4 5 5 5 1 5 5 2 2

5 4 3 3 1 1 3 1 4 2

3 3 1 2 2 2 2 4 5 3

2 4 1 2 2 2 2 4 5 3

4 4 1 4 2 3 2 4 5 2

4 5 1 4 3 2 1 5 5 3

5 5 4 5 4 1 1 1 2 3

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 24

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

b5 inter lining

B5.01

B5.02

B5.03

B5.04

B5.05

le klint lampshades, teasing pattern

checkered, typography, optical illusion

ham change from snake, pine cone

hidden bowtie, folded ribbon

3 1 4 1

2 2 5 2

3 5 5 2

2 2 5 2

2 1 4 3

4 4 2 5 1 4 2 3 1 4

4 4 2 5 1 1 5 2 5 2

5 4 2 5 1 2 3 2 5 2

5 4 3 3 1 1 3 1 4 2

4 5 4 4 4 1 3 2 2 2

1 5 4 1 4 1 1 4 2 2

2 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 4

5 5 4 4 4 2 2 4 1 4

5 5 4 5 4 1 1 1 2 3

Associations individual friendly / unfriendly dynamic / non-dynamic organic / geometric appealing / not appealing

Notes:

Characteristics opaque/transperent non reflektive/reflektive matte/glossy non flexible/ flexible light/heavy soft/chrispy tough/duntile cold/varm bouncy/static noisy/silent

Application individual 25

MATERIAL NARR ATIVE

CHARLOT TE HANSEN

A study on pleating polyester

Articles inside

Transperens

Karen Grigorian

Form and Format