MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
Jewellley Exhibition
MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
By Me e Strømgaard Dalby, Head of Development As genre, jewellery encompasses anything from sculptural miniature works to large body ornaments in the cross field between tradi onal jewellery, accessories, and clothing. The dis nc on between what is real and what is fake in terms of materials is not relevant and has not been for a long me; jewellery designers readily mix noble metals with rubber, ceramics, and tex le. The goldsmiths’ tradi onal methods of processing have been posi vely challenged by tradi onal methods of related professions as well as modern technologies resul ng in a diversity of jewellery made from ceramics, tex les, feathers, paper, and laser cut metals. By se ng up this exhibi on, Kolding School of Design wants to focus the spotlight on jewellery design by showing how, for the past 16 years, designers educated at the school have worked thema cally with jewellery. The exhibi on displays the works of 14 designers who have all been engaged in working with jewellery design although coming from very different fields: Fashion, Tex le, Interac on Design, Industrial Design, and Ceramics. Naturally, the different design backgrounds bring en rely diverse expressions to the jewellery. However, interes ngly, their specific design background is not obvious. The exhibi on shows how different professional approaches can inspire the genre of jewellery. In the long run, we hope this mutual inspira on will result in a Danish Master’s degree in jewellery design to allow Danish jewellery designers to be able to match their foreign colleagues educa on-wise. Interna onally, jewellery design has been part of the design school curriculum for a long me. Hopefully, this small exhibi on demonstrates the interest and talent of Danish students as well.
SoďŹƒa Einarsdo r 4th-year student, Interac on Design Materials: Paper, chain, ink People use their body and their clothes to release an unlimited number of signals telling the story of who they are. Interac ve clothing makes it possible to employ the body and clothes as an interface to the world and people around us. Interac on presents possibili es of expression that combine the bodily and aesthe c worlds. The product is an interac ve piece of jewellery which enables modern women to be both crea ve and individual while expressing a story or an emo on which con nuously changes. Completed 2010 +45 22572757 soďŹƒa@soďŹƒa.dk
Be na Møller Class of 2010, Fashion Materials: Latex, wood, amber, silver, apple core, bark, chewing gum, sawdust ”Trees are Rare” Out of respect and love for the material, I created an accessory collec on inspired by the many religious and symbolic applica ons of wood. Among other things, I worked with fruit, leaves, amber, and surfaces coming directly from the tree such as bark and splinters. In addi on, I processed chewing gum, coffee, cocoa, etc. and captured these in latex to make them represent a modern counterpart to amber. Completed 2009 +45 22765439 www.be namoeller.com
Alexandra Lindek Class of 2010, Fashion Materials: TahiƟ cultural pearls, oxidised silver, goat velour, calfskin, Silverblue mink The design is inspired by the extraordinary Maxxi Museum in Rome; its freestanding stairs and sweeping hallways that ceaselessly pique the curiosity of the visitors and present new shapes. The jewellery complements the line of clothes by emphasising the materials mink, skin, and leather and consists of ribbons, necklaces, and bracelets. The jewellery consists of TahiƟ cultural pearls and together with the oxidised silver and the processed fur and skin it becomes an expression of rawness and femininity combined. The jewellery is created in collaboraƟon with the goldsmiths Seiersbøl & Vedebech, Kolding. Completed 2010 +45 20617429 www.lindek.dk
Magnhild Evenseth Disington Class of 2009, TexƟle Materials: Wood, fur, leather “The Modern Amulet” consists of a collecƟon of fur USB keys. The project was among the finalists in the “The Golden Fur Pin” 2010 annual compeƟƟon organised by Kopenhagen Fur. I have worked with the relaƟonship between people and their portable gadgets and electronic devices. I have taken my point of departure in the disƟnct lack of emoƟonal appeal of these products. By creaƟng ”The Modern Amulet” I have aƩempted to balance the emoƟonal value of the informaƟon we carry and the objects with which we carry it. Completed 2009 +45 50534385 www.magnhilddisington.com
Pille Pernille Horst Class of 2009, Fashion Materials: CoƩon yarn, lucite, silk ribbon, wooden balls, silver rings, fabric, and syntheƟc filling Greta Molander (1908-2002) was propelled by petrol and champagne and lived a life of rallies and travels. She was sociable, colourful, and fashion conscious with a sense of humour and a zest for life. Greta’s life serves as a great source of inspiraƟon because it enables you to work with humour, gender roles, and not least plenty of colours, which she truly appreciated. The project links spontaneity with a love of craŌ techniques resulƟng in a humorous and playful expression. Completed 2008 +45 23343292 www.pillepernillehorst.blogspot.com
Rikke Malte Borg Class of 2009, TexƟle Materials: Black syntheƟc texƟle fibre ”Squiggle” A line – a line of thought – a taƩoo. A sƟng – a curly string – a squiggle. Completed 2010
Materials: Rubber, plasƟc, syntheƟc texƟle fibre, acrylic, aluminium thread, silicone, silver ”Diner Transportable” Necklaces inspired by molecular gastronomy. Completed 2008 +45 22988842 www.designrborg.dk
Liv Eskholm Class of 2007, TexƟle Materials: 925 sterling silver, 22 carat gold, leather, enamel ”RIPP OFF” Line which caricatures the posiƟon of the jewellery. Moreover, the line emphasises signal value by strongly contrasƟng material and technique. The crudely processed pieces of jewellery made from silver and oxidised silver respecƟvely are aƩached directly to the body using tape. ”Common brooch necklace” Pearl necklace made from badges covered with white skin. The badges can be removed and worn separately. In principle, the badge is a brooch despite the fact that the brooch is commonly defined as being delicate and posh. The line of jewellery considers the posiƟon of the brooch, and with the visual references of the badge to the pearl, it also considers the iconic value of the badge. Completed 2007 +45 26793581 liveskholm@hotmail.com
Karina Hunnerup Class of 2007, TexƟle Materials: 925 sterling silver, gold-plated (24 carat) silver, texƟle-coated elasƟc “Leaves” Playful noƟon of having 1 life symbolised by 1 leaf = ring Playful noƟon of having 9 lives symbolised by 9 leaves = bracelet Playful noƟon of having 22 lives symbolised by 22 leaves = necklace Completed 2010 +45 61382583 www.karinahunn.dk
MeƩe Jensen Class of 2007, Ceramics Materials: Ceramics, silver I am fascinated with exploring the potenƟal of a ceramic material. I love to challenge my ceramic competencies and to challenge ceramics in search of the limit of the material. Ceramics stands out by being heavy and fragile, delicate and violent, noble and raw all at the same Ɵme. With this jewellery I have used the ability to create strong contrasts that convey the story of what it means to be an ordinary human being. My ambiƟous objecƟve is to create beauƟful, exciƟng, and communicaƟve jewellery which states unique radiaƟon. Completed 2007 +45 21826655 www.meƩe-ravn.dk
Caroline Hansen Class of 2005, Fashion
Mie Albæk Nielsen Class of 2005, Fashion
Materials: Silver, gold, lace, mink, Swarovski crystal “Totally-overdone-it”, chain “Mighty-power-muscleman”, chain “Great-great-grandmother”, brooch “Look-a-like-lady”, pin Completed 2006 and 2010
”Dry your tears away” The piece of jewellery is inspired by Swiss handkerchiefs – hand-craŌed from lace and mink and covered in Swarovski crystal. Completed 2009 +45 61682746 www.femmesregionales.com
BirgiƩe Levin Class of 2004, TexƟle
Eschel Jacobsen Class of 2005, Industrial Design Material: Metal “Eslin” Cut flowers – flower inspired necklaces in laser cut metal Our cross-disciplinary design process takes its starƟng point in product design and paƩerns. In order to create an innovaƟve look, we have invesƟgated how the flexibility of the material interacts with a geometric flower inspired mode of expression. Completed 2011 +45 30290239 +45 22469433 blh@zapdecor.com jacobsen@eschel.com
Pernille Back Petersen Class of 2000, Ceramics
Henrik Pagh Sørensen Class of 1992, Ceramics Materials: Glass and silver Already a trained ceramicist I became acquainted with the making of glass pearls. The generosity of the glass regarding colour, transparency, and work process instantly appealed to me. In working with the glass pearls I have tried to come up with an expression that can be combined with simple yet colourful and easy-to-wear jewellery. Completed 2011 +45 75572234 henrikph@privat.dk
Anne Black Class of 1996, Ceramics Materials: Porcelain and silver The collecƟon is characterised by clean lines, simple shapes, and the subdued graphic decoraƟons typical of Anne’s design voice – a voice that blatantly reflects the Scandinavian design tradiƟon. Completed 2010 +45 35107327 www.anneblack.dk
Ane e Gråbæk Class of 1994, Tex le
Mulle Faber Class of 1994, Fashion Materials: Plas c, leather, and hand-cra ed glass pearls The asymmetric aspect is emphasised by the dis nct use of colour – black, almost in abundance, interrupted by illumina ng explosions of clear colours where the gleaming, shiny pearls float along elas c lines of silicone or contrast the raw but polished texture of the leather strings. The final anatomy of the jewellery is affected by everything from the tac le excitement of the unexpected combina on of materials to the designer’s fascina on for the rustle of glass pearls. Completed 2010 +45 29382909 www.mulgrey.com
Photography: Patrizia Oczki Make-up: Mille Erikstrup Text: MeƩe Strømgaard Dalby, Helene Jensen, Søren Sønderstrup TranslaƟon: Marianne Baggesen Hilger Display and tables: HAY Print and installaƟon: Kolding Skiltecenter Thank you to Henrik Pagh Sørensen
Kolding School of Design Aagade 10 DK-6000 Kolding www.dskd.dk +45 75301100
Kolding 2011