Beloved by Tourists and Locals Alike By Deborah Stone Photos Daniel Nadelbach
W
hen visitors ask Santa Fe locals about the toprated restaurants in town, they’re invariably steered towards Geronimo. The legendary Canyon Road establishment, which is the only restaurant in the state to receive both the AAA Four Diamond and Mobil/Forbes 4 Star Awards, has earned a reputation as the place for exceptional dining in the City Different. Tradition and innovation combine at this cutting-edge establishment where food takes center stage.
Partner and executive chef Eric DiStefano, who has been at Geronimo’s for 18 of its 25 years, has what many in the industry describe as an extraordinary understanding of ingredients and a talent for blending flavors in unique and creative ways. He calls his cuisine, “global fusion,” an eclectic meld of different styles from around the world, including Italian, French, Asian and Southwest. The menu, which changes seasonally and makes the most from local ingredients found at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, features a range of inspiring starters Chef Eric DiStefano
from a creamy cauliflower bisque and Asian pear salad with Bleu d’Auvergne, grilled cheese, to foie gras “flapjacks” and Hawaiian ahi tuna sashimi and tartare served with buttermilk scallion pancakes. Signature entrees include Chef DiStefano’s famous telicherry rubbed elk tenderloin, green miso sea bass, fiery sweet chile and honey grilled Mexican white prawns and mesquite grilled Maine lobster tails. Other customer favorites include such savory delights as spice rubbed roasted game hen, New Mexico “Four Corners” grilled rack of lamb and the ever-popular center cut beef tenderloin “Frites,” which is accompanied by sautéed organic chard, hot and spicy hollandaise, horseradish and hand cut russet potato fries.
Your sublime culinary experience is enhanced further by a cozy and inviting ambiance set within a 260-year-old historic home. The elegant and intimate Borrego House, which was built by Geronimo Lopez in 1756, boasts thick adobe walls, kiva fireplaces and wood beams. “It’s a beautiful house,” comments Chris Harvey, one of Geronimo’s partners, “and our customers really enjoy dining in a place that has this great history.” He adds, “But, it’s also a very contemporary and chic dining scene.” As for service, Harvey notes that the staff exemplifies the art of hospitality. “We take pride in our staff,” he says. “They’re attentive, friendly and knowledgeable, and do everything possible to ensure customers have the highest quality dining experience.”
There’s also a separate vegetarian tasting menu featuring oven-dried shitake mushroom organic “wedge,” butternut squash and lobster mushroom bisque, and house-made baked asparagus and leek cannelloni. If you still have room for dessert, try the decadent flourless German chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream and smoked sea salt caramel sauce or the orange “creamsicle” cake, a heavenly concoction served with lemongrass ice cream, cardamom sauce and sesame Florentine.
With a location on storied Canyon Road, the restaurant sees its share of tourists. However, it has always catered to locals. “It’s the locals here that have given us so much continued support over the years,” explains Harvey. “That’s very important to us and we really appreciate it.”
Geronimo 724 Canyon Road 505.982.1500 Geronimorestaurant.com