A Local Treasure Trove Photos by Carolyn Wright
Situated in an unassuming building off highway 285 near the turn off toward Los Alamos is what many would arguably call the best liquor store in the state. Kokoman Fine Wines carries an unprecedented selection of wines, beers and spirits from all over the world. Whether you’re headed between Taos, Los Alamos or Santa Fe, the little ramshackle shop you might miss if you’re not looking is the place to go for just about any libation preference.
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tarted in 1981, owner Keith Obermaier describes Kokoman as a panoply of liquor options. “We’re pretty incredible when you think about the diversity of what we have, from the least expensive item to high dollar products,” he says. General manager Jerome Valdez adds: “Most grocery stores carry what sells the most. We carry products that are often more obscure.” To break down the math, Kokoman carries over 3,500 wines, 1,000 varieties of beer, 105 single malt scotches, 390 types of vodka, 220 tequilas and 157 types of rum. They also receive small allocations of rare bourbons and whiskies throughout the year. Walking through the wine arm of the store is a bit like walking through a wines-of-the-world museum. You can find a wine from just about anywhere on the map: Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Portugal, France, Spain, Germany,
Austria, Hungary, Israel, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, California, Oregon, and let’s not forget New Mexico. “We carry a lot of old world wines,” explains Obermaier. “We pick wines that are very different than the Trader Joes or bulk wines being carried these days.” Obermaier estimates they hand select 80 percent of their inventory. While Obermaier handles the wines, Valdez handles the beers and spirits. “People pass through here and stop because they know they can only get what they’re looking for here. We seek out specialized beers from different breweries that are always coming out with seasonal or special release brews,” describes Valdez. Some of the beers at Kokoman can age up to 10 or 20 years. “This liquor store is fantastic! My husband and I are craft beer lovers and when we go out of state we like to shop for craft beers we cannot buy at home,” says Ashley from Oklahoma City.
“Kokoman is like bringing all the wine countries right to your doorstep. Their scotch, whiskey, vodka and other selections are unbelievable,” says Michael from San Bernadino, California. Not sold yet? Check it out for yourself. Kokoman hosts a free wine tasting every Saturday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. It’s well worth the short drive north of Santa Fe to take advantage of this gem off the beaten path. “I believe we’ve got some of the best pallets in the state. We’ve been doing this for over 30 years and we’ve developed a knack for it,” says Obermaier. Valdez quips: “It’s sort of like a sunken ship from the outside, but people come in and found out we have the treasures.” Kokoman Fine Wines 34 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoaque 505.455.2219