WHEN SOPHISTICATION MEETS CREATIVITY Photos Heidi Ivy Neiss
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riginally from Mexico City, Chef Fernando Olea moved to Santa Fe 26 years ago. After running restaurants in Mazatlán, Mexico and Minneapolis, Minnesota, as well as a few restaurants around town, he and his business partners Lawrence and Suzanna Becerra opened Sazón a little over half a year ago. Sazón—which means “just the right taste” and “the perfect moment” in Spanish—showcases traditional and nouvelle Mexican cuisine. Olea’s specialty is the mole, but his definition of mole goes far beyond the chocolate-based sauce most of us think of. “On a daily basis, we have anywhere from three to six different moles. People think of mole as one kind of sauce, but mole is really the flavors of Mexican cuisine,” he says. For example, mole doesn’t necessarily include chocolate. “People assume mole has chocolate in it because of the way it’s been presented in the United States, but there are several types of moles found throughout Mexico, some very complex and others very basic. The only common ingredient is chile,” Olea explains. The word “mole” comes from the Aztec language, and basically means “mix of ingredients.” Olea’s moles vary in color and flavor. In his mole blanco, for instance, the main ingredients are piñon nuts, seeds, herbs and jalapeños. His mole negro includes four types of chiles, herbs and chocolate. The mole coloradito has two chiles along with garlic and other spices. He also created a mole in commemoration of the 400th anniversary in 2009 of Santa Fe’s founding. It’s been heralded in major publications throughout the United States, including the Chicago Tribune and the Orange County Herald. The main flavors of the dish are apricots, pecans, piñon nuts, red Chimayo chile and white chocolate. Among Olea’s signature dishes is the Sopa de Amor, where he plays with temperature and texture. “I mix hot and cold, sweet and savory. It’s a cream made of poblano peppers on blue crab meat, topped with amaretto foam, sprinkled with chocolate.” Olea keeps his main menu small, and then augments it with daily specials,
which often feature lamb and pork, sourced in-state, or fish, flown in daily. “I keep the menu small because I put love and passion into each of my dishes. I cook as I feel,” he describes. “I personally prepare all of my moles. They’re not listed on the main menu, because it’s something I create on a daily basis. I think our customers and friends perceive and appreciate that.” Sazón also has a mescal and tequila bar worth noting. The great selection includes agave flights—both horizontal and vertical tastings—so you can get the entire agave experience. “The tequilas and mescals are the best out there,” says general manager Aaron
Warren. Additionally, Sazón has a list of spectacular wines from Spain, Argentina, Mexico and the USA specifically paired with Olea’s cuisine. The signature in-house cocktails are also fun to sip and savor. At Sazón, even the artwork on the walls is carefully chosen, and is in fact available for sale. From the ingenious moles to the world-class tequilas and mescals, Sazón is a fusion of creativity and sophistication.
Sazón 221 Shelby St. 505.983.8604 SazonSantaFe.com