Lady jacket - Bespoke project

Project WorkshopDevelopment

Bespoke lady jacket

drawing

Front Back

list of MATERIALS

- Main fabric x 2,5 m (in a medium weight wool for jackets)

- Lining x 2 m

- Interlining woven x 2 m

- Horsehair x 1,5m (high 100 cm)

- 1 couple of preformed plastron for the front of the jacket

- Felt for under collar x 25 cm

- Stay tape x 2 m (wide 0,5 cm)

- Shoulder tape x 1 m (wide 1,2 cm)

- 1 couple of shoulder pads (height 1 cm)

- Padding x 10 cm (60 grams)

- Bottons 2 x Ø 2.5 cm

- Bottons 6 x Ø 1.5 cm

Pattern pieces

1. Front - main fabric interfaced

2. Side pannel - main fabric interfaced

3. Lapel facing - main fabric interfaced

4. Upper collar - main fabric interfaced

5. Back - main fabric

6. Upper sleave - main fabric

7. Under sleave - main fabric

8. Front facing - lining

9. Side pannel facing - lining

10. Left back facing - lining

11. Right back facing - lining

12. Upper sleave facing - lining

13. Under sleave facing - lining

14. Under collar - felt or melton

15. Facing collar - horsehair

16. Facing lapel - horsehair

17. Facing carrer - horsehair

breast poket welt

poket welt poket with flap

PREPARE THE PIECES

- Draw the pattern pieces on paper

- Cut the pieces

- Fuse 1 meter of the main fabric

- Fold the fused fabric and cut 2 pieces of the n. 1-2-3

- Place the n. 4 in the plain fused fabric and cut only 1 piece

- Cut 2 pieces of the n. 5-6-7 in the main fabric

- Fuse 4 cm wide all the hem and the went shape on these pieces

- Fold the lining and cut 2 pieces of the n. 8-9-12-13

- Cut 1 piece of the 10 and 11 in lining

- Fold a piece of felt and cut 1 piece of the pattern n.14

- Fold the horsehair and cut 1 piece of the numbers 15-17 and 2 pieces of the n. 16

PROCESS

- Close the dart of the 2 front pieces (pattern n.1), cut the stitch of the dart and iron it open, place a piece of fuse wide 4 cm up to the dart and on the side opening

- Attach the piece n. 2 from the arm hole to the hem matching the notch with 1 cm of seam allowance and iron it open

- Stitch at 0.5 cm the shoulder tape wide 0.7 cm on the right side on this pieces along the shoulder line and the arm hole

development

- Draw a 11 cm line for the 2 welt pocket on the right side of the fabric

- Cut a rectangle of 13 x 36 cm on the main fabric, on the wrong side mark a line of 11 cm at 5 cm from the top, from this point mark another line at 1.5 cm, mark a third line in the middle of this two

- Match the line in the middle with the welt pocket line drew on the jacket, right site to right side and stitch 2 lines following the other 2 lines drew

- Cut in the middle of the 2 lines and fold the fabric, iron the shape for the welt pocket, stitch the side of the pocket, then fix the two flap and close the pocket

- On the left side of the jacket draw a 9 cm line for the breast pocket, the process is the same of the previous one

- Cut a rectangle of 11 x 25 cm on the main fabric, on the wrong side mark a line of 9 cm at 2 cm from the top, from this point mark another line at 2 cm, mark a third line in the middle of this two

- Match the line in the middle with the breast pocket line drew on the jacket, right site to right side and stitch 2 lines following the other 2 lines drew

- Cut in the middle of the 2 lines and fold the fabric, iron the shape for the breast pocket, stitch the side of the pocket, then fix the flap and close the pocket

- With hand cross stitch, close all the pocket

- Mark and cut the dart on the preformed plastron, close it with zig-zag

- Helped by the ham attach the preformed plastron on the wrong side of the 2 front pieces with hand long stitch, trim the excess

- Near to the preformed plastron, hand stitch the n.16 on the lapel following the line on the pattern

- Cross stitch with hand-stitch the stay tabe wide 1.2 cm along the lapel folding line

- On the back pieces (n.5) stitch at 0.5 cm the shoulder tape wide 0.7 cm on the right side along the shoulder line

- Stitch these 2 pieces together from the top to the vent with 1.5 cm of seam allowance, from the vent to the end, stitch with long point, iron the stitch open, do a small cut on the seam allowance and iron the vent in place, unstitch and open the vent

- Stitch the corner leaving 1 cm for the seam allowance

- Zig-zag the hem of the piece n.17 and attach it at 0.5 cm on the shoulder line on the wrong side of the fabric of the piece n.5

- Stitch together the front and the back right side to right side along the shoulder line 1 cm, don’t stitch the preformed plastron

- Fix with cross hand-stitch the preformed plastron to the horsehair on the back piece

- Close the jacket stitching the side part with the back (and the horsehair in between), again 1 cm right side to right side following the notches, iron all the seams open and flat

- Stitch together the sleeves 1 cm of the seam allowance till the vent, from here stitch with long point, iron the seams and the vent in place, unstitch and open the vent

- Stitch the corner of the fake vent

- Attach together the pieces n. 14 and 15 following the drawing on the pattern, helped by the ham, iron and steam it to give it the collar shape

- Stitch the collar to the jacket starting from the center back following the notches with 1 cm of seam allowance

- Attach the sleeve gathering the shoulder volume and matching the notches

- Take the measure between the notches used to gathered the shoulder and cut a pieces of padding long that measure for 4 cm, stitch it following the arm hole’s seam (between the same notches) on the sleeve side, with a long point on the macchine

LINING

- Sew together the n.3 with the n.8 from the shoulder to the hem 1 cm following the notches, iron the seam and top stitch 0.3 mm from the previous seam on the n.8 side

- Continue attaching the the n.9 to the 8 with 1 cm stitch and then the n. 10

- On the other side follow the same process and stitch the n. 11, (pay attention here to don’t exchange the n.10 with the 11 because they go on their specific side for the vent)

- Join together the two half of the lining stitching together at 1.5 cm the n. 10 with the 11 (stop before the vent)

- Iron the stitches open

- Sew together the n.12 with the n.13 and iron the stitches

- Open an escape stitch on the left lining sleeve on the back stitch

- Attach the lining sleeves to the rest of the lining part following the same process done for the main fabric

- Sew the n. 4 with the lining part starting from the center back following the notches for 1 cm

- Create an hide welt pocket on the right side of the lining, wide 8 cm for 2 cm following the same process for the previous welt pockets, close it with cross stitch

- Join the paper pattern n.1 with the n.5 on the shoulder line (without seam allowance), place the shoulders pads, trace the line of the arm hole in the shoulder part without seam allowance and trim

- Attach the shoulders pads inside the jacket, with an invisible seam on the outside, following the shoulder stitch. Inside the jacket, on the arm hole, lock the shoulder pads with a long and slow hand-stitch

JOIN THE TWO JACKET TOGETHER

- Starting from the vent attach the lining to the jacket right side to right side

- Stitch the lining hem of the n.11 with the hem of the jacket 1 cm, fold and stitch along the vent, stitch the other side hem (the n.10) with the hem of the jacket 1 cm, fold and stitch from the notch till the hem leaving a fold, stitch together the upper part

- Stitch right side to right side, all the hem from the vent till the round part 1 cm

- Fix this seam allowance with cross stitch

- Close the jacket on the collar starting knotting together the 2 meting point of the collar to the lapel, excluding the seam allowance, stitch the collar 1 cm starting from one of this 2 point till the other one, excluding again the seam allowance, restarting from this point sewing all the lapel with same 1 cm of seam allowance, repete on the other side

- Open the two stitches of the two collar with the back of the jacket and stitch together at 0,5 cm

- Close al the perimeter and use the escape stitch on the left sleeve to turn the jacket

- Stitch the sleeve ham

- Stitch all the bottom hole and the bottom

- Hand-stitch a long and flat stitch all around to keep the hem in place

- Iron all well and flat.

shooting

Woman’s Jacket

Diletta Bonollo

Milano