Dine& Wine
Stein
How fun is this!… What a cool place!… That was the best beer (or wine or dessert or , etc.) I have ever had!… How heavy did you say this box is?… Lets turn down this road!…
Now into our 2nd issue of DWS as new publishers and fast approaching 2018, I find myself reflecting often of our journal journey to date. That reflection often takes place with Dave over a delicious meal and a glass or two of Virginia’s finest, whether it be a crisp white or a craft stout, at the wonderful venues of our advertising partners or as we scout out new places for a story or unique expertise such as how to ferment home brew concoctions. Grateful is just the first of the many words (often tied to the reflections shared above) that we have zealously embraced on our Dine, Wine & Stein’s “Eat, Drink and Experience” path we are happy to traverse with tantalized pallets and now expanded girths. As Jenny patiently waits on content and design checks and Jim continues to contribute with his quick wit and deep sense of all things cheese, Dave and I remain in awe of the continued and generous support we’ve received from all of you; our readers, our new and legacy partners and our team at DWS. For all of that and more, we thank you! So as we raise our glasses and ring in the New Year, no matter the choice of libation inside… Here’s to sharing an exciting and tasty 2018. A year filled with rich delights, simple pleasures and peaceful moments with you all. Cheers, Anne
Volume 149 BlueMont Media Group P.O. Box 814 Nellysford, VA 22958 Phone: 757-630-3352 www.DineWineAndStein.com
Publishers Dave Renfro E. A. Wachtmeister
Executive Editor & Art Director Jenny Shannon
In this issue...
Contributing Writers
Glögg.................................................................................................................................... 4 Green Is the New Black at Wild Wolf Brewery........................................................... 6 My Family’s Holiday Traditions....................................................................................10 Milk... ............................................................................................................................... 12 Give Me Shelter.................................................................................................................14 It Was a Strange Week! ..................................................................................................17 The Art of Becoming Smarter.........................................................................................18 Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book..................................................................................... 20 Who Knew! Ginger Gold Apples................................................................................... 26 Here’s To Your Health..................................................................................................... 29 Ethnic Foods In the Virginias........................................................................................ 30 Cork has worked for 2,000 years... why change now?............................................... 31 Homebrewing 101............................................................................................................ 32 Every one doesn’t like something... but nobody doesn’t like mac and cheese...... 35 Four Edible Cousins... .................................................................................................... 36 Rockbridge Vineyard…................................................................................................... 37 The Perfect Cheese Board For Holiday Entertaining................................................ 38 Wine and Cheese Two of life’s Great Culinary Blessings................................. 40 WOOPS!............................................................................................................. 41 How To Eggxactly Check the Freshness of Your Egg.................... 43 Rioja Wine...................................................................................... 44
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Cover Photo: Courtesy of CrossKey’s Vineyards
Dine Wine & Stein
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Winter 2018
Jonathan Ashley William Detroit Annie Earhart Shawn Gatesman Phyllis Hunter Kay Pfaltz James Putbrese Dave Renfro Melonie Vest Marcus Weaver
Dine, Wine & Stein is published four times per year and is available, free of charge, in Virginia and West Virginia. All creative material and text in this publication are the property of BlueMont Media Group and are intended for reference use only. Reproduction without written permission of the publisher is forbidden. © 2018, BlueMont Media Group
by Annie Earheart
Glögg
Winter time naturally elicits a sense of slowing down and transitioning towards the blooming of all things Spring. But before we can contemplate crocus and tulips breaking through the crusty remnants of snow, we hunker down, light up our stoves and fireplaces and focus on the season of traveling near and far, enjoying great food and toasting our friends and family with a wide variety of libations.
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or some living much farther north than Virginia, Spring can seem very very far away. So what to
Fruit, berries, currants, orange rind, raisins, spices, and some times almonds, are immersed in the bubbling brew for
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hours until just right. The art of making Glögg, and putting your own twist on it, is a deep-seeded tradition passed down through generations of Scandinavians. A steaming mug of Glögg and the perfect St. Lucia (or Lucy) bun, followed by a robust “Skål!”, pronounced Skoal and Swedish for “Cheers!”, certainly gets things heated up for what’s to come, especially around the holidays. The Julbord or Christmas Table, also known affectionately as the smorgasbord galore, is what keeps folks toasty and warm and as we say here in the southern hemisphere, fat and happy. No Julbord is complete without meatballs, smoked salmon and a variety of cheeses, including Swedish Farmer’s cheese; a soft mild cheese that goes great with anything. Hare, venison, moose and other wild game collected during the various hunting seasons and hoarded away until it's time to gather together could be part of the spread. Winter 2018
And don’t forget sprats and potatoes, yum! Top of the list is a dish called Janssons Frestelse, also known as Jansson’s Temptation, a warm scalloped potato casserole made with bread crumbs, cream and sprats, a tiny fish traditionally used but often traded for anchovies. Ham and sausage accompanied by rich, spicy mustard are a must on any holiday table, and indulging in dipping bread into the ham broth is an extra treat. Most importantly, when the rivers are frozen over and it's much to cold to brave the North or Baltic Sea to bring home fresh seafood, there is never a worry during a Scandinavian winter in finding herring to enjoy with your fresh rye bread with raisins or Knäckebröd, a crisp bread made with rye or sesame seeds. From pickled to mustard to dill, there are so many marinated varieties of herring to sample. The good news is you don’t need to fly off to the northern tundra to enjoy smorgasbord delights as Foods Of All Nations in Charlottesville offers a selection of Jul treats. Make sure to check out the herring, it takes the edge off of waiting for September to indulge in the ritual of eating one's fill of crayfish. But that’s another story for another season. n Skål!
Glögg: How to Make It 2 cups water or orange juice 1 (3-inch) piece orange rind 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 2 cinnamon sticks 6 whole cloves 5 whole allspice 2 cardamom pods, bruised 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 (750-ml) bottle red wine, such as Burgundy 1/2 cup sugar Garnishes: blanched almonds, golden raisins
Combine first 9 ingredients in a pot over medium heat. Bring mixture to a simmer, being careful not to boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves. Strain mixture, and serve immediately, or gently reheat before serving. (If you prefer a stronger flavor, steep spices longer before straining.) Garnish, if desired. Another option: For a nonalcoholic version, use water or orange juice, and substitute 3 cups Concord grape juice for the wine. Omit sugar, and follow glögg procedure.
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Green Is the N e w Black at Wild Wolf Bre wery by Dave Renfro
As I sat enjoying a beautiful fall day on the 112-year-old porch at Wild Wolf Brewery, in Nellysford, one thing was very clear - Green is not only reflected in the mix of autumn foliage around the brewery but also deeply in its mission of sustainability, Wild Wolf Brewery is committed twenty-four seven, fifty-two weeks a year to providing the most environmentally friendly, sustainable products and experience you can have.
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facilities must verify that they are, at a minimum, practicing the Virginia Green Brewery core activities by implementing the following: • Provide Recycling: highly-visible recycling opportunities for guests. • Minimize the use of disposable food service products: use products that are made from bio-based or renewable resources and provide for recycling or composting of items. • Water Conservation: have a plan for conserving and using water efficiently. • Energy Efficiency: have a plan in place to reduce overall energy consumption. • Offer a Green Events Package: provide recycling at such events and be willing to work with “environmentallyaware” customers. Wild Wolf appears to be well on their way to winning Virginia Green Brewery of the Year Award for the third year in a row in 2017 based on their continued efforts and commit-
ix years ago, Mary Wolf began her “green” journey with her son and head brewer, Danny Wolf. “I go back to my original business plan. An entire section was devoted to the fact that we were going to be a green company. And we had a little expression that we never really used since it’s kind of corny but it was like where everything could be green but the beer”. Mary and Danny’s green journey has stayed on course, making that motto not so corny after all. Wild Wolf Brewery was awarded the prestigious Virginia Green Brewery of the Year Award in 2015, and 2016. A statewide program, the Virginia Green award works to reduce the environmental impacts of Virginia’s tourism industry. It is run as a partnership among the Department of Environmental Quality, the Virginia Tourism Corporation and the Virginia Restaurant, Lodging and Travel Association. Virginia Green Breweries is a self-certifying program in which
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ment to make everything they do green. “We work really hard to get that. Being as sustainable as possible is a big part of who we are. We keep trying to up our game with everything we do.” says Mary. Danny Wolf is also quick to point out that being green and environmentally focused goes beyond the manufacturing process at Wild Wolf. It has to do with being a good community partner and a desire to be connected locally. “I think a lot of our new beers are born out of my finding a cool local product and wanting to use that. The Blonde Honey is a good example of that. We originally sold local honey in the home brew shop and I was brewing Belgian Blonde one day and I was walking through the shop looking for my different options to put a sugar in there. And I chose the local honey. So the blonde has honey in it now because of that.” “Another example is the Area 151 product. When this Belgian style ale was created we added REAL local blackberry puree during fermentation that we sourced locally, giving the beer a beautiful taste and color.” What also makes Wild Wolf beer green is that they don’t use any natural flavors. Natural flavors typically have propylene glycol and other preservatives which means that the flavor comes from a natural source and is the condensed down and bottled with additives. Wild Wolf brews its beers from the freshest ingredients possible. They broke down fifty pineapples for the Haze of Future Past IPA, made real pumpkin
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puree for the Howling Pumpkin and got real spices from the Cheese Shop in Staunton. It’s clear that Mary and Danny believe in sustainable products. But I really wanted to dig a little deeper and ask why it was so important to them. Mary replied, “You don’t have to look very far. It’s scary to look at the world’s water resources starting to dry up in different locations and on hazy days you look around and ask did we do that? I believe it’s our responsibility. We are out here with a 10-acre property in a beautiful place and we want to preserve that.” Danny added, “We want to share this with other people. We have a huge kind of billboard that we use to say, This is why we are green, this is what we are doing , look at how easy and fun it is and hopefully help encourage and inspire other people to do the same. I know there are a lot of breweries striving year after year get the Virginia Green Brewing Award and that’s great! We hope we are inspiring other breweries to work harder.” Mary added, “We tell people everything we are doing. We’ve had people ask us ‘why do you do that? ’. It’s not a secret. Someone will take this award from us someday. That’s fine. Then that means we have inspired a bunch of other breweries to start doing the same thing we are doing.” Wild Wolf ’s green process does not
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increase quality and fulfill requests from customers for event space, Wild Wolf added two new production buildings, numerous pieces of new brewing and lab equipment and an event center that can only be appreciated when seen firsthand. If you are looking to experience great beer and want to support a brewery that has truly taken sustainability to a new level, make sure you stop by Wild Wolf. The hamburgers are superb, too. n
seem that complex. However, when you peel back the layers, it becomes obvious that Mary and Danny take nothing for granted. “Most of our sticks, 100 percent of the leaves, all leftover restaurant food scraps, waste yeast, all goes into the compost pile. We feed the grain to local cattle. We then buy the cows back from the same farmer that picks up the leftover grain. We have amazing hamburgers as a result. We are very proud of our burgers.� In the summertime, Wild Wolf uses other waste products to grow chives, lettuce, and tomatoes that accent their food menu. Having chickens, geese, and ducks has been great keep the predators and hawks away and they had their best yield in their third year of hops due to flock fertilizing like crazy! hey eat the bugs, are supposed to eat the weeds, but not so much. They are not great employees in that respect but are great at fertilizing for sure. Wild Wolf and its dedication to their 10 acre site shows a real commitment to recycle-reuse. Located on Rt. 151 in Nellysford, the Brewery restored a 112-year-old school house and multiple outbuildings including a couple of tobacco barns, all of which are incorporated into the Wild Wolf experience. The interior dining area reflects local history and has pictures of the school as it was 100 years ago. Looking into creating a more sustainable future and to keep up with demand for its product,
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My Family’s Holiday Traditions by Phyllis Hunter, The Spice Diva
What are the things that make us think of the holidays? Each culture has its own idea of traditional deliciousness for its own celebrations. Whether you are making Christmas Puddings in England, Cinnamon Rolls in the U.S., Posole in the Southwest, Clementine Cake in Israel or Kerala for breaking your Ramadan fast, each family has a signature dish. My family, which originated in Texas and New Mexico, always has Posole, a delicious Mexican/Southwestern stew for Christmas Eve. My sister lived in Albuquerque for 13 years next door to Mrs. Candelaria who taught her this wonderful, comforting dish. We work on Christmas Eve at The Spice Diva, so we have to plan ahead. Even though our lives are busy, with a little planning, we will keep our families comforted and well-fed through the holidays. We start about a week before, shopping for the essential ingredient, dried hominy. This is usually found in Mexican grocery stores like Amigo or Food Lion which has a surprisingly stunning array of Mexican specialties. Hopefully, we have Hatch or some kind of green chilies in the freezer. If not, we may sub-stitute a combination of Poblano and Jalapeño or Serrano chilies. Blister the chili skins and remove along with the stems and seeds. Just like dried beans, dried hominy must be soaked overnight. To keep your dish from being overtaken by starchiness, cook the hominy separately and add it to the dish once it’s finished. Roast a pork shoulder or chicken in the oven for the protein in your dish. I like to make quite a few slits in the meat
The freshest spices, organic teas, beans, grains, oils and vinegars and Neuhaus Chocolates
and slip a sliver of garlic in each. A nice rub of salt, pepper and cumin will finish spicing your roast. Once it is done and cooled, shred
the
meat.
Sauté
the
onions, more gar-lic and green chilies until limp and just starting to brown. Put every-thing into the crockpot, add chick-en or vegetable stock and cook on low for 8-10 hours. Try to finish it one day and reheat it to eat it the
next.
accompaniments
The are
best tamales,
chips and con queso. Of course, 410 West Main Street Charlottesville, VA 22903 www.thespicediva.com 434-218-DIVA (3482) Rammelkamp Foto
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Chili Con Queso is always made from Velveeta “cheese” and RoTel. Feliz Navidad!
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You will need to start at least two
Posole
days ahead for this dish. There are hundreds of recipes for this dish which is traditionally served on Christmas Eve in New Mexico. We are serving it on New Year’s Eve this year. This is my take on it. Use dried hominy*, which has to be soaked for 24 hours. It provides a really good
texture. You can also dry rub and put the garlic into the meat a day ahead. You can use a crockpot and cook it on low for 8 hours. If you don’t have a crockpot, place it in the oven in a covered Dutch oven or roaster at 250 degrees for overnight or all day. Serve it with good tortillas and tamales. Ingredients: 1 pound dried hominy 2-3 pound pork roast, or 8-10 bone in, skin on chicken thighs 6 cloves of garlic, skinned and sliced 2 TB Cumin, 2 tsp for the rub, the rest for the stew Kosher salt and pepper One large, white onion, chopped 12-24 oz green Hatch chilies, chopped 1/2 c tequila or Mexican beer 1/2 quart low sodium chicken broth Pan drippings from roasting
Instructions: Roast a 2-3 pound pork loin or 8-12 bone in, skin on chicken thighs. If using chicken, slide garlic sauce under the skin. Discard the skin and bone to shred the chicken.
chilies*. Sauté these at medium heat in a Dutch oven or large, heavy pan, stirring frequently. You probably won’t need any more garlic. Don’t really let the onions brown, but just soften and become translucent. Add about 1/2 c tequila or Mexican beer and deglaze the pan by turning up the heat and scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pan until the liquid is reduced by at least 1/2. Don’t scrape an enameled or non-stick pan with a metal utensil. Add the meat and about 6-8 cups of chicken broth as well as the drippings from the pan minus the fat. Adjust the seasoning by adding salt, pepper, chili powder or cumin. Cook it on the stovetop or in the oven for 3-6 hours, tightly covered, checking every couple of hours for moisture. Add a cup of water if the liquid starts to drop below the level of the ingredients.
If using boneless pork roast, cut slits about every three inches in both sides of the meat, and place a slice of fresh garlic in each.
A few hours before the stew is done, boil three quarts of salted water, add the hominy to the boiling, salted water and simmer gently until al dente. Drain. If you cook it in the stew, it will make the stew very starchy. Add it to the stew, adjust the seasonings and cook until the meat starts to fall apart.
Rub the roast with cumin, salt and fresh pepper. It’s great to do this a day ahead as well.
*Dried hominy may be found at some Food Lions, Foods of All Nations or local Mexican bodegas.
Roast at 350 until it’s about 10 degrees below done on a meat thermometer.
*For years, I used the Old El Paso ones from the grocery store, but now I get roasted green chilies from Kroger and freeze them. There is no substitute. Mexican bodegas do not have these as it is a Southwestern specialty.
Let the roast cool, tented with foil, and then shred it with two large forks. Keep the garlic in the dish. Reserve the pan drippings and refrigerate in order to remove the fat more easily. Chop a large white onion and 12-24 ounces of frozen Hatch or Poblano or canned green (or red) roasted
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With thanks to my sister, Sharon Byles of Plano, Texas, my mother, Eileen Hunter, and Mrs. Candelaria, wherever you are.
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Milk...
by William Detroit
Humans, so a recent study from England has shown, have been drinking milk for about 7,500 years! The cow was domesticated then in the Middle East. What were things like in the fifth millennium B.C.? Pour a glass of delicious, Vitamin-D laden, milk and let’s reflect on the past. Of course, you wouldn’t have gotten your milk from the refrigerator, the dairy case in the store, or from the creamery. Drunk warm, milk would have come directly from the cow. (I’ll bet a lot of people went to sleep right away!) Milk’s biggest rival in the beverage category was beer. Yes, people have been drinking both for almost 8,000 years. (Some things never change.)
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less accessible. Pottery was growing popular. To express your artistic side, you might paint a wall or a cave and play a musical instrument, for example, a flute. Beloved pets were dogs and guinea pigs. In modern-day Africa, giraffes were seen. Food-fads of the millennium included maize and rice, rivaling wheat and barley for the palate. Some even ate termites, ants and grasshoppers! But most others cultivated fruits and herbs. Fermented milk produced butter, cheese and yoghurt. Of burial customs, cremation was popular. On the medical front, did you realize that the first surgery dates from this period? The practice of trepanation, removing bone from the cranium, was widespread. And the first dentists drilled holes in teeth. Ouch!
ad you lived five thousand years before Christ’s birth, you would have been one of only 7 million souls in the whole world (fewer than now live in New York City). You probably wouldn’t have lived in a town, behind walls. (Europe’s first town, in Bulgaria, may not have been established until 4,200 B.C.) You would have been a farmer (perhaps a dairy farmer), fisherman, hunter, gatherer or herder. Elk and deer were favorite game animals, hunted with spears containing stone points. Plant fibers were used for footwear, baskets and nets. The latest technological developments were the plough and the wheel. You would have worn copper, the metal of the day. Jade and gold were widely liked, too, but
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Mother always said that plenty of milk would prevent tooth decay. No matter whether this be truth or fiction, the health benefits of milk have been known for millennia. Milk contains so-called macronutrients: calcium, phosphorous, potassium, protein, and magnesium. Milk is essential for healthy bone growth and development. Milk lowers blood pressure, reduces bad cholesterol, and battles obesity, cardio-vascular disease, and Type 2 Diabetes. Our ancestors certainly didn’t know these incredible health benefits. They only knew that milk tasted good. So: how many foods can you name that taste good and are good for you? Milk must top that list! n
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Publisher note:
”
Opie, you haven’t finished your milk. We can’t put it back in the cow, you know. ~Aunt Bee, ‘The Andy Griffith Show’
Scientific studies are now showing that the consumption of whole milk dairy products and full-fat dairy products are actually beneficial for our health. (Remember when coffee was bad for us, and now it’s considered a brain food?) I was glad to see both scientific studies, as I love coffee, and now I can stop drinking skim and enjoy whole milk. Upon reading the report, I made a beeline for Mt. Crawford Creamery, the only dairy processing and milk-bottling facility in the area. The Will family has been farming in the area for generations, and in May of 2013 they opened their modern creamery, offering quality over quantity. The herd of Holstein and Holstein-Jersey cows are milked twice a day, and the farm offers farm fresh milk, butter, traditional buttermilk, and eggnog in season. Mt. Crawford is a one of a kind operation and the only farm in Virginia that completes every step of milk production right on the farm. The milk comes from the pasteurization room and then is bottled. The process is all done in one place, and you can’t get any more local than that. Free tours are offered to groups, and you’re invited to see the happy cows munching on fresh green grass.
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Give Me Shelter by Melonie Vest
This winter has been predicted to hit us hard with bone chilling cold and lots of snow… so nows the time to start thinking about our outdoor critters to help them get through the winter wonderland here in the Blue Ridge. A shelter for cats that live outdoors is easy to make and gives them a place to avoid bad weather. A good size shelter should be 2 feet by 3 feet and at least 18 inches high. Larger isn’t always better, because the heat will disperse quickly, and the cats will need a warm place during the winter. A space large enough for three to five cats to huddle is perfect. (I know thats a lot of cats, but they are out there, just look in your barn.) Here are some tips to keep your kitties cozy: making the door smaller and adding insulation. Maintenance: Check the shelters regularly to make sure they’re in good condition. Doorway: The doorway should only be big enough for cats — about 6-8 inches wide to help keep out other animals. Face the entry away from the wind or use a door flap to keep out the elements. Protection from the elements: Make the shelter waterproof, windproof, and elevated off the ground. Wood pallets or 2x4’s are great for elevation.
Use Styrofoam coolers (utilizing duct tape to keep lid on tight) or Rubbermaid/Sterilite bins that are turned upside down. Be sure to put a brick or piece of slat on top of styrofoam coolers to keep from tipping over. Ask for free scrap lumber from building supply stores, lumber mills or contractors. Look for used dog shelters on Craigslist or at garage sales —these can be made cat-ready with just a few modifications, like
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Bedding: Straw makes the best insulation and bedding, because it resists moisture and keeps the shelter warm. Never use hay—it retains moisture and will make the shelter wet and cold. Avoid blankets and towels for the same reason. Camouflage: Paint the shelter a dark color or cover it with leaves or brush so it blends in with the environment. Placing the shelter in a wooded area away from buildings and traffic is safer for the cats (and the neighbors will appreciate it too). Don’t be discouraged if the cats don’t immediately take to the shelters that you’ve made for them! The cats simply may not have noticed the shelters, or are still investigating these new objects you’ve placed in their territory. If the cats aren’t using the shelter after a few weeks, try moving it closer to an area where the cats already prefer to hang out, but still gives the cats privacy from the public. (Hint: a little catnip can go a long way to encourage them to try out the shelter.) n
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It Was a Strange Week! Friends were telling us about a new restaurant that had opened and asked if we would like to join them for dinner. Looking over the menu, our friends decided on the lobster and asked what wine I would recommend. The restaurant had an extensive wine
by James Putbrese
list, and since my wife had ordered shrimp scampi, I suggested the 2012 Chardonnay from Pollack vineyard. The 2012 Chardonnay had won a silver award in the Virginia Governor’s Cup competition. I had tasted the Chardonnay at Pollack and knew that it had been fermented in French oak and left the palate with a lingering creamy taste that would go well with lobster and scampi.
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ater that week my wife and I decided to go out for pizza. My wife, who normally is not a big wine drinker, decided she would enjoy a glass of wine and asked if there was a wine that would go with the pizza. Hmm... from lobster to pizza all in one week. When I think of lobster I think of butter, butter, more butter and lemon. So what goes with lobster whether it’s steamed or grilled lobster tail? The one wine hands down that goes well with the tastes and textures of lobster is Chardonnay. Most Chardonnays spend time in oak which brings a rich buttery taste to the wine and offers a creamy after taste which compliments lobster. However, Chardonnay is not your only choice as there are other white wines that pair well with lobster, such as Pinot Grigio, which offers a food-friendly match to lobster cooked with lemon. Another favorite of mine which also pairs well is a Virginia Viognier
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which highlights the sweeter side of the lobster. Now on to pizza night. When in college I was the only one of my friends who did not have a fake “ID” and could not pass for 21 even in a dark pizza parlor. As a joke I would order milk with my pizza and as strange as it might sound, I still enjoy an occasional glass of milk with pizza. However, times were when you ordered your favorite pizza, your first question was what beer was on tap. The great news now is with the growth of the craft beer industry in Virginia, when you ask what beer is on tap your choices are endless. However, back to the question what wine would go with pizza? Lets take the “typical” pizza, the one with tomato sauce, lots of mozzarella cheese and topped with pepperoni and sausage. Since the tomato sauce will contain plenty of acid, the wine to consider would be a Syrah or Shiraz or perhaps an Italian Chianti. You also might consider a Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel. If you are ordering a veggie pizza, a Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Rose wine would perform well. Of course there remains the white pizza, totally devoid of tomato sauce. Your options have now greatly expanded. You might consider a bubbly Champagne, a Pinot Grigio or a Sauvignon Blanc, or for that matter just about any wine that does not contain a large amount of tannin. Lobster or pizza... Virginia wine and beer have it covered! n
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The Art of Becoming Smarter...
by Kay Pfaltz
At Basic Necessities it starts with wine. Even though analyzing wine seems antithetical to the French mentality from which I learned to love and understand wine, I nevertheless tell my class to examine each wine (observing color, sniffing, swirling and only then tasting) for in drinking we kill off brain cells, while the art of studying something ‘grows’ them. Are you with me?
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o consider the latest theory, that of the herd of antelope. The herd can only run as fast as its slowest member. And this slowest member, at the back of the herd, is the one likely to be eaten by the panther, thus, by natural selection and survival of the fittest, allowing for the strengthening of the overall gene pool. The slowest antelope is culled and the herd now moves faster. Still with me? Now, the following may be a syllogistic or perhaps more accurately an enthymematic stretch, but let’s consider the question of your brain cells. All two of them. Since your brain can only think at the speed of its slowest cells…
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and alcohol kills brain cells, it follows that in drinking we’re killing off the slowest cells. Thus making ourselves smarter. Alright, if the above rhetoric didn’t convince, let me ask if you’ve ever felt like conversation just flowed after a glass or two of wine? Ever wondered if indeed you really were that much wittier with the ancient elixir coursing inside? Well, turns out that just maybe you’ll wake the next morning and realize it wasn’t all a figment of your imagination. Studies have shown that there is a connection between the level of polyphenols in the brain and the brain’s activity. Polyphenols increase the brain’s activity by relaxing the vessels, making them wider and thus increasing their capacity. This serves not only to pump more blood to the head but also to increase the amount of oxygen and other nutrients which are necessary to the brain. Resveratrol, found in red wine, is a specific example of a polyphenol. And one of the foods with the highest polyphenol content of all? Dark chocolate. To kill off sluggish brain cells and increase polyphenol content, try: Château Gaudou, ‘Tradition’ 2013 – From Cahors in southwest France where people commonly live to be
over hundred, the ‘Tradition’ is a blend with Malbec and Tannat, grapes exceptionally high in polyphenols, hence the longevity in the area. These wines help explain the French Paradox whereby the French habitually eat foie gras, cassoulet and other fatty foods and still live longer, and with better heart health than we Americans do. n
Kay Pfaltz is a writer (www.kaypfaltz.com) and co-owner of Basic Necessities (www.basicnecessities.us) with Sallie Justice and Rosie Gantt. Her books have been published in English, German and French. Kay also teaches wine tasting and writes for La Joie and Blue Ridge Life. Kay is also active in animal welfare and donates profits from her books to rescue organizations.
URANT SO GO ESTA OD R A
Kathy’S SH E
! N IT PUT H O E M ER NA
Voted best breakfast in the Shenandoah Valley! Hours:
Sunday - Thursday 7am to 8pm Friday & Saturday 7am to 9pm
540 885 4331 705 Greenville Ave. Staunton If you enjoyed your Gourmet Pancakes at Kathy’s, then you too can purchase “Kathy’s Pancake Mix” that has been specially milled to Kathy’s very own secret formula.
Do you ever wonder what it would be like to get PAID to visit Wineries, Restaurants, Breweries, and foodie establishments of all sorts? Join the Dine, Wine & Stein Team and give it a try! We’re looking for an experienced Sales Representative for Albemarle Co., and Charlottesville. Other territories available. Call: 757-630-3352 www.DineWineAndStein.com
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by James Putbrese
T homas Jef ferson’s Cook Book... In 1784, when Thomas Jefferson was leaving for Paris to serve as ambassador to France, he offered his slave, 19-year-old James Hemings, his freedom if he would travel with him and master the art of French cuisine. The two men journeyed to Paris where James Hemings was apprenticed under several master chefs for three years. Following his apprenticeship Hemings became chef de cuisine in Jefferson’s house in Paris. During the four years Jefferson lived in Paris he devoted himself to the intricacies of French cooking and French wines. He also studied French agriculture, especially French grapes for wine making, and how it might be replicated in American agriculture.
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efferson copied the recipes from his French kitchen and returned to the United Sates as perhaps the greatest epicure and connoisseur in the art of fine cuisine and wine of his day. The finest wines were imported from France, Spain, and Italy, and Jefferson would search local markets for the finest and freshest of produce. The best of delicacies of two continents now made their appearance on his table. James Hemings remained at Monticello as a paid servant and later trained a chef as his replacement. He left Monticello in 1796 with his freedom papers. Jefferson’s granddaughter, Virginia Randolph, copied all the recipes Jefferson brought back from France, as well as additional ones from various cooks
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and stewards who worked for Jefferson at Monticello, Poplar Forest, and the White House. The handwritten cookbook was handed down from one generation to the next until the 1930s. At that time Fanny M. Burke, the great-great-granddaughter of Jefferson, presented the book to the Thomas Jefferson Memorial Foundation. The Foundation later gave noted historian Marie Kimball permission to update and prepare it for publication. The book, entitled Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book, is available to purchase. I recently saw a used copy on Ebay for eight dollars. Lately it has been fashionable for individuals and restaurants to serve “Dinner with Jefferson,” and to create the whole menu from Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book! n
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Quick Pick s
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Central Shenandoah Valley
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Piedmont
The area’s only venue for lakeside dining, Region’s 117 uses locally-sourced ingredients, most from within 117 miles, crafting a menu that has something for everyone. Region’s 117’s twist on American comfort food is made fresh and flavorful in an atmosphere unlike any other in the Shenandoah Valley. Region’s 117 is open Wednesday - Saturday from 11:30am to 9:00pm and Sundays from 11:00am-3:00pm.
Regions117.com | 540-699-3234 180 Bald Eagle Drive, Lake Frederick, VA 22630 Residing in a basement space adjacent to the heart of downtown Harrisonburg, The Friendly Fermenter is a cozy spot to unwind with one of their taproom exclusive handcrafted beers, while visiting with friends, playing games, or checking out their fully stocked home brewing retail shop. TFF also offers instructed “brew on site” experiences, where customers can come in and make their own 5 gallon batch of beer. Brew on site sessions can either be public, allowing for 1-2 people, or a private session where your group of 6-8 gets the brewing space to themselves, Reservations are required and can be made online or by calling us.
FriendlyFermenter.com | 540-217-2614 20 South Mason Street, Suite B10 (basement), Harrisonburg, VA 22801
Prosecco Ristorante & Pizzeria serving cuisine Italiana. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:00am - 10:00pm, Friday & Saturday 11:00am - 11:00pm... Sicilian pizza, specialty pizza, pizza rolls and calzones, soups, salads, pasta, chicken, and seafood. IlProseccocusine.com | 540-828-3026 415 North Main Street, Bridgewater, VA 22812
CrossKeys Bistro is the place to be if you enjoy made from scratch food paired with nationally awarded wines. From the signature house-brined Reuben to a palate-morphing Brie Fondue drizzled with local honey, the Bistro has food to please every taste. House-smoked meats, artisan cheeses, and locally sourced vegetables are just a sample of what make the Bistro at CrossKeys the stop on your next wine tour. Open to groups large and small, come Discover, Taste, and Experience Crosskeys Bistro at Crosskeys Vineyards.
CrossKeysVineyards.com | 540-234-0505 6011 East Timber Ridge Road, Mt. Crawford, VA 22841
Bluestone Vineyard is family owned and operated, and committed to crafting small-bach wines. The beautiful new event building, “The meeting House” is available for weddings, receptions, reunions, and much more.
BluestoneVineyard.com | 540-828-0099 4828 Spring Creek Road Bridgewater, VA 22812
Surrounded by both the Blue Ridge and Massanutten Mountains at Brix and Columns Vineyards you can enjoy one of our delicious wines while sitting on our porch or cozied up to one of our fireplaces. We are a winery that combines the best of farming, wine and relaxation. We look forward to seeing you here!
BrixAndColumns.com | 540-421-0339 1501 Dave Berry Road, McGaheysville, VA 22840
www.DineWineAndStein.com
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Cranberry’s Grocery & Eatery, a natural & organic store/cafe serving coffee, wraps, sandwiches, salads, and soups. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and serving gluten free and vegan entrees as requested. The store offers groceries, apothecary, natural products, and body care. Catering available.
GoCranberrys.com | 540-885-4755 7 South New Street, Staunton, VA 24401
Aioli Mediterranean Tapas has been receiving consistently outstanding reviews since renowned European Chef, Said Rhafiri, opened the restaurant. The menu is a combination of inventive small plates, called Tapas, and an excellent selection of entrees, all artfully presented. The interior of the restaurant is tasteful and comfortable with a space in the back for private parties. Aioli is open for dinner Tuesday - Saturday. The Bella Inn, located on the second floor of Aioli offers two suites for overnight guests or extended stay. Both suites are large and fully equipped.
AioliStaunton.com | 540-885-1414 29 N Augusta Street, Staunton, VA 24401
Kathy’s Restaurant is located in Staunton and recently received the Virginia Living magazine’s Best Breakfast in the Shenandoah Valley Award. The restaurant has served locals and tourists for 26 years in the same location and is known for their home style cooking and their famous pancakes. Open seven days a week.
Kathys-Resturant.com | 540-885-4331 705 Greenville Avenue, Staunton, VA 24401
Beverley Street Convenience offers an inside deli with hot daily specials, pizza, wings, desserts, fried chicken, salads, and more. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. WE DELIVER. Open daily.
www.facebook.com/beverleystreet.convenience.com | 540-885-2777 2103 West Beverley Street, Staunton, VA 22801
Located on the Higgs family’s former apple orchard, Barren Ridge Vineyard is now home to Augusta County’s premier winery. John and Shelby Higgs converted the 1890’s barn into a state-of-the-art winery, and offer 14 different varietals of wine, many of them award winning. Open seven days a week.
BarrenRidgeVineyardsVA.com | 540-248-3300 984 Barren Ridge Road, Fisherville, VA 22939
Seven Arrows Brewing company provides high quality, craft brewed beer in a relaxed, social environment where people can come together and drink great beer. Head Brewmaster, Aaron Allen, was formally MillersCoors Process Engineer, and holds a brewing certification from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling.
SevenArrowsBrewing.com | 540-221-6968 2508 Jefferson Highway, Waynesboro, VA 22980
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Scotto’s Italian Restaurant has been making Italy accessible to Valley residents for over 20 years. Owner and Chef, Tommy Scotto, was inspired by his passion for his Italian culture when first opening his restaurant in 1989. Tommy goes to great lengths to ensure authenticity and quality in every dish. Wine is an important part of Italian culture. Scotto’s Italian Restaurant offers an extensive wine selection that is available for dine-in, carryout, or delivery. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week.
Scottos.net | 540-942-8715 1412 W Broad Street, Waynesboro, VA 22980 The Green Leaf Grill features a diverse menu, including authentic seafood gumbo, New Orleans craw-fish étouffée, and creative vegetarian dishes, as well as specialty pizzas and panini sandwiches. The Owner and Chef, Chris, showcases his expertise in Creole cooking with formal training at the famous 5-Star Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. Enjoy an excellent selection of wines as well as craft and domestic beer. Live music every Friday and Saturday night, as well as a Jazz Brunch on Sundays from 12:00pm-2:00pm.
TheGreenLeafGrill.com| 540-949-4416 415 W Main Street, Waynesboro, VA 22980 Rockbridge Vineyard is one of the oldest wineries and producers of fine award winning Virginia wines. The owner and winemaker, Shepherd Rouse, a native resident, received a Masters in Enology from the University of California. The winery produces a full spectrum of wines, many with names of local interest. An excellent fun wine is “Jeremiah’s” (named after the famous bullfrog). The wine is slightly sweet with a fruity bouquet and a wonderful label. It is a perfect wine to enjoy on the patio with friends. Enjoy their newly expanded tasting room.
RockbridgeVineyard.com | 888-511-9463 35 Hill View Lane, Raphine, VA 24472
Paulie’s Pig-Out offers hickory smoked pulled pork, dry rubbed ribs, roasted and smoked chicken, along with great sides like baked mac & cheese, and grandma’s potato salad. All sides are homemade and Paulie’s offers fresh baked desserts. Sunday 12pm - 5pm. Thursday, Friday and Saturday 11am - 7pm.
434-361-2001 7376 Rockfish Valley Highway, Afton, VA 22920 Located in Nelson County, Wild Wolf Brewing Co. is a made from scratch restaurant and brewery featuring local ingredients with vegetarian and gluten free options. Our specialties - hickory smoked meats and award winning beer! Bring the kids and your canine companions to Wild Wolf to experience the many unique features that makes this brewery a must-see destination. Our biergarten, shaded by elm trees, features a gazebo, waterfalls, and a large koi pond. At Wild Wolf Brewing Co. we pride ourselves on providing exquisite food, award winning beer, and a memorable experience. Visit our website for current specials and events.
WildWolfBeer.com | 434-361-0088 2461 Rockfish Valley Highway, Nellysford, VA 22958 Basic Necessities in Nellysford is a cafe, wine and cheese shop offering “a taste of Europe in the Blue Ridge Mountains.” Basic Necessities strives to offer a unique atmosphere with local, seasonal and pesticide-free produce from local farms. Breakfast and lunch is offered Tuesday - Saturday starting at 10:00am. Dinner, Friday and Saturday 6:00pm - 10:00pm and brunch, Sunday 10:00am - 2:00pm.
BasicNecessities.us | 434-361-1766 2226 Rockfish Valley Highway, Nellysford, VA 22958
www.DineWineAndStein.com
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Whether packing a picnic, enjoying breakfast, lunch items or our specialty market treats Black Creek Market & Café offers something for everyone. Grab and go or just sit and relax over a delicious soup, salad, sandwich, BBQ or Black Creek Markets’s award winning chili. No matter the season, Black Creek Market is your go to place for tasty treats in Nelson County.
BlackCreekFarmAndMarket.com | 434-226-0792 4137 Tye Brook Highway, Route 56 Arrington, VA 22922 Opened as Nelson County’s original brewery in 2007, Blue Mountain Brewery is a bustling restaurant and pub at the foot of Central Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, featuring inside and outside seating, gorgeous views, and spectacular food and beer. A larger production brewery, Blue Mountain Barrel House, was opened at the south end of Nelson County in 2012 to expand on the bottled, canned, and draft beer availability of Blue Mountain throughout the East Coast. Visit both breweries for a unique Virginia beer experience. BlueMountainBrewery.com Blue Mountain Brewery and Restaurant, Mon - Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm 9519 Critzers Shop Road, (Rt. 151), Afton, VA 22920 Blue Mountain Barrel House, Wed - Thurs 11am-5pm, Fri - Sun 11am-8pm 495 Cooperative Way, Arrington, VA 22922 At Plaza Azteca you’ll be treated to much more than a delicious meal and exemplary service— you’ll enjoy an entire culinary encounter. Try the Molcajete Azteca... a hot stone bowl filled with ribeye steak, chicken, shrimp, poblano peppers, onions, chunks of pineapple, and honey pasilla sauce topped with shredded cheese. Plaza Azteca serves delicious appetizers, soups, salads, and vegetarian dishes. Now two convenient locations, Waynesboro and Charlottesville. Open for lunch and dinner. PlazaAzteca.com
Waynesboro, VA 22980 | 23 Windigrove Drive | 540-949-4205 Charlottesville, VA 22901 | 101 Seminole Ct (Rt 29-N) | 434-964-1045
Foods of All Nations has been a Charlottesville destination for more than 50 years offering delicacies from around the world and from your farmer next door. Enjoy lunch at the Deli & ”Hot Bar.” Open Monday - Saturday 7:30am - 8:00pm, Sunday 10:00am - 6:00pm.
FoodsOfAllNations.com | 434-293-7998 2121 Ivy Road, Charlottesville, VA 22903
Mona Lisa’s is a local Italian Deli specializing in fresh pasta, Ravioli, homemade sauces and Pesto and Lasagna packaged for you to prepare and enjoy at home. Mona Lisa offers fresh Italian sandwiches and pizza by the slice or to take home, along with a selection of meats, cheeses, olives, and wines. Catering is offered for parties and events.
MonaLisaPasta.com | 434-295-2494 921 Preston Avenue, Charlottesville, VA 22903
Spice Diva offers the finest and most flavorful spices, salt and pepper, herbs. teas in bulk, and exquisite extracts. Inquire about their cooking classes in their twelve-seat kitchen.
TheSpiceDiva.com | 434-218-3482 Main Street Market, Charlottesville, VA 22903
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South Street Brewery, founded in 1998, is Charlottesville’s longest running brewery and pub. South Street Brewery was purchased in 2014 by Blue Mountain Brewery, whose owners have expanded beer offerings to include venerated South Street originals as well as new beers reflecting the diversity and experimentation that is the heart of American craft brewing. The food offerings lean heavily toward local artisans, reflecting the owner’s belief that Charlottesville, Virginia is the best place on earth to live, drink, and eat! Monday - Sunday 11am - 1am.
SouthStreetBrewery.com | 434-293-6550 106 West South Street, Charlottesville, VA 22902
Shenandoah Joe Coffee Roasters & Espresso Bar is dedicated to the craft of roasting coffee by hand in their 25 lb “San Franciscan” batch roaster. Shenandoah Joe uses only the finest Arabica coffee from all over the world. Shenandoah Joe serves Charlottesville with three locations and now with their new location in Harrisonburg.
ShenandoahJoe.com | FaceBook.com/ShenJoe | FaceBook.com/CornerJoe
An 18th century estate centered around the historic landmark ruins of the house Thomas Jefferson designed for Governor James Barbour, Barboursville Vineyards was founded in 1976 by one of the pre-eminent wine growers of our time, Gianni Zonin. As a winemaker for over 20 years, Luca Paschina has set the standard for wines from Virginia. The tasting room is open daily for current vintage tastings and museum presentations of Virginia wine history.
BarboursvilleWine.net | 540-832-7848 17655 Winery Road, Barboursville, VA 22923 This restaurant’s name is no accident, given Andrea Palladio’s influence on the Jeffersonian mansion here, and the presence of his masterpieces throughout the Veneto, home to Gianni and Silvanna Zonin, founders of this vineyard estate. Northern Italian in inspiration, yet creatively indebted to the most seasonal and local resources of the earth and sea, Palladio offers the handsomest gastronomic redemption there can be of the promise only the finest food and wine can extend – recalling one, recurrently, to the beauty of this world.
BarboursvilleWine.net | 540-832-7848 17655 Winery Road, Barboursville, VA 22923
Here is a quick guide for the proper wine serving temperatures: RED WINES:
Beaujolais, Pinot Noir… 58-60 degrees; Chianti, Merlot, Shiraz… 60-62 degrees Cabernet, Zinfandel and most other reds… 63-65 degrees
WHITE WINES:
Riesling, Soave… 48-53 degrees; Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Burgundy, Chardonnay… 54-58 degrees
CHAMPAGNE:
All Sparkling wines, Champagne, Cava… 40-45 degrees
DESSERT WINES:
Port, Madeira, Sherry, Sauternes… 60-65 degrees You may purchase a thermometer at most wine shops that fits around the wine bottle and register the temperature of the wine you are serving.
www.DineWineAndStein.com
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Who Knew!
Ginger Gold Apples by Annie Earheart
Ginger Gold apples were born from the raging water and destruction of Hurricane Camille in the 1960s. It was on Clyde and Ginger Harveys orchard that different apple tree seedling was discovered growing near a Winesap and a Golden Delicious tree. The Harveys could have closed up their orchard after Camille, but true to the strength of Nelson County, they decided to clean up the mass of destruction and bring back their beloved orchard. The fruit of their labor was a hybrid apple named after Ginger.
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ith a crisp, cream-colored flesh with a sweet, mildly tart taste, the Harveys knew they had something special. Great in pies, applesauce and as a tart cider, Ginger Gold apples can be purchased at Nelson orchards in August as it is the first yellow apple to ripen in the fall. Clyde Harvey passed away in January 2003, but his special apple lives on in local
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orchards. The Harveys special apple tree, with its quality and consistency of fruit bearing has also made it viable for commercial growing not only in Virginia but in orchards
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We source the best green coffee. We roast to bring out the best qualities. We train to prepare the best coffee and espresso beverages.
SHENANDOAH JOE
across the United States, mostly in the mid-Atlantic and New England regions. According to All About Apples, “The color, shape, and distinctive long stalk all identify the Ginger Gold as a relation of Golden Delicious, yet it has a much earlier season — ripening in mid/late August. Unusual for an early apple, but again reflecting a Golden Delicious parentage, it is a good keeper and will last several weeks in the fridge. The flavor is fairly mild, and a bit sharper than Golden Delicious but still sweet for an early variety. It is equally good for eating fresh or processing.” n
www.DineWineAndStein.com
HARRISONBURG location now open! 64 South Mason
Charlottesville, Virginia 945 Preston Avenue 2214 Ivy Road - Townside Shopping Center UVA Corner - behind Corner Grocery
434.295.4563 • SHENANDOAHJOE.COM
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Here’s To Your Health
by Jonathan Ashley
Recently, I was reading an article about the health benefits of drinking wine and beer in moderation. I felt this was important information that should be passed on to our readers. • Beer helps relax the body as the hops found in beer relax the stomach. In addition, beer is considered to have anti-cancer properties. • Moderate consumption of alcohol is good for the mind and nerve cells, as this helps to prevent dementia. • Drinking a glass of wine or beer reduces the risk of having high blood pressure. • It is an established fact that alcohol dilates the blood vessels and improves blood circulation • Beer and wine are made up of all natural ingredients, and as you know we should consume that which is natural. • Alcohol, in all forms, help raise the good cholesterol, HDL. Red wine contains various substances, in addition to the alcohol,
which prevent blood clots, relax blood vessel walls and prevents the oxidation of low-density lipoprotein (LDL, “bad” cholesterol). • Beer contains high levels of silicon, which is linked to bone density. In a 2009 study men and women who drank one or two drinks daily had higher bone density. • Antioxidants in red wine called olphenols may help protect the lining of blood vessels in your heart according to the Mayo clinic • The alcohol in beer, wine and other spirits reduces your chance of developing kidney stones. A health study that examined the drinking habits of more than 38,000 men over a 12 year period showed that moderate drinkers were 30% -35% less likely to suffer a heart attack. n And here all along I thought I drank beer and wine because I liked them!
“ ”
I enjoy a glass of wine
each night for its health benefits,
the other glasses are for my witty
comebacks and f lawless dance movements. -Anonymous
www.DineWineAndStein.com
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Ethnic Foods
In the Virginias
by James Putbrese
ITALIAN
I
talian food has roots as far back as the 4th century B.C. The major characteristic of Italian cuisine is its simplicity. Many Italian dishes have only 4 to 8 ingredients. The food relies more on its ingredients than elaborate preparation. Recipes are often the creation of a grandmother rather than a chef. This is the reason many Italian restaurants advertise dishes made from old family recipes. The recipes are known for their use of fine ingredients such as herbs and spices. Northern Italian cooking is a blend with French cuisine and has strong Gallic flavors adopted from France. Most traditional northern Italian recipes call for unsalted butter rather than olive oil. These recipes call for less tomato, preferring to use wine, broth or cream as the liquid. Other components are mascarpone cheese and fresh egg pasta. The results can be extraordinarily elegant. The food of southern Italy is no less delicious and is often described as refined home cooking. Recipes from this area have remained
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virtually undisturbed for centuries, and with adherence to the proper techniques they give us a heritage of good honest cooking. The use of oil-based sauces and pasta filled with vegetables, sausage, and seafood is common in the southern region. The food has earthier, stronger flavors and uses bolder combinations of ingre-dients. When you think Italian, think fettuccine alfredo (created in Rome in 1914), ziti, eggplant parmesan and a host of other wonderful dishes. Italian food and wine are paired together naturally, as Italy is one of the world’s largest wine producing countries. The popularity of Italian cooking is obvious in the Shenandoah Valley and the Piedmont with many excellent Italian restaurants. In Charlottesville, my favorite Italian restaurant is Carmello’s Restaurant and Wine Bar. a Charlottesville institution since 1992,
Winter 2018
serving traditional, rustic northern Italian recipes of the restaurant’s founders, Bill and Stella Hedges. Carmello’s is an attractive upscale restaurant with white table cloths, a professional and knowledgeable wait staff, warm ambiance, and candle lit tables. Since April of 2014, the baton, or perhaps we should say spoon, has been passed to their son, George Hatzegiorgio, who has blended his family’s foundation ingredients with classic French techniques and ingredients sourced, whenever possible, from local Virginia farms. The result is a delightfully unique combination of flavor and presentation that reflects an intimate connection with the land that produces the food. George had been working with his family in the restaurant business since the age of fourteen. After discovering a passion for the kitchen, he left Virginia for Florida and attended Le Cordon Bleu, where he
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received an associates in culinary arts and graduated with honor. After working in some of America’s top restaurants under respected chefs, he returned to Virginia to take the helm of the family’s restaurant, Carmello’s. As executive chef, George blends his classical French techniques and presentation with the rustic northern ingredients, sauces, and recipes that made Carmello’s a landmark in Charlottesville. Chef George continually rotates a menu of dinner specials to introduce diners to new presentations, techniques, farms, and flavors, while his traditional menu harkens to the best of his mother’s classic and thoroughly Italian recipes. The chef’s offerings are always evolving, so there’s always a new experience waiting at Carmello’s. n
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What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch? -W.C. fields
History is vague on our first use of cork; however, it is known that the cork was used to seal earthen wine jars in the first century B.C. in both Asia and Rome. Unlike the jars that were to follow, the early jars were not smooth, and so the Romans were forced to double-seal them with pitch, or a hardening substance made from volcanic ash. This combination has obviously worked, as jars thousands of years old are still intact, and the wine in them is still potable.
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oday many wineries are starting to use synthetic rubber corks and screw tops, even for quality wines. However, cork’s basic qualities are just right for wine bottles. Cork is light, elastic, and a good insulator. It resists diseases and insects, will not decay, and cannot be permeated by liquids or gases. More than half the volume of a cork is air that is trapped in its cells. The cells can be compressed, but will return to their original shape once pressure is released. Cork stoppers have remained virtually the same for the past 300 years. The production of cork starts in the forest. The bark from cork oaks is harvested every nine years, once the trees reach maturity in about 20 years. The trees are marked with the year harvested so they will not be harvested at the wrong time. Some trees have been producing cork for over 200 years. Most cork forests are in Spain and Portugal, with Portugal producing over 50% of the cork used. While cork is used in making boats and flooring, the most prevalent use for cork is stoppers for wine. n
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Homebre wing 101 by Shawn Gatesman
Homebrewing is a wonderful hobby, and can be nearly as simple or complex as you desire to make it. This will be the first article in a series that explores the world of homebrewing and how beer is made. Here we will focus on the basic ingredients, and why they matter, along with the general processes that go on in the beer making process. The Ingredients: Malt – malted barley grains (or wheat, rye, oats, sorghum) which contain starches used (converted) to create sugary wort, which is fermented into beer. Malt can be in the form of the whole grains, or extracts (dry and liquid). BASE malts give the beer most of the fermentable sugar that yeast converts to alcohol and Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Base malts in some cases leave minimal flavor behind. SPECIALTY malts offer a variety of color and flavor characters, and often use less fermentable sugar.
primary types of yeast are ale and lager yeasts. There are many strains of brewing yeast within these two types, and can offer little to extreme flavor and aroma characteristics to the beer. We could NOT have beer without this tiny little “Friendly Fermenter”! Water – we all know what this is. You need good tasting water to have good beer. When brewing with malt extracts, water chemistry is not as important as it is in “all grain” brewing. Adjuncts – this is a word that simply means other ingredients you add to beer, typically for flavor, aroma, or body contributions, that are not fermentables (sugar, malt) and not yeast or hops.
Malt Extracts – typically your base malt only. These are made from actual malted grains, and then the wort is concentrated to a liquid (LME) or a dry (DME) malt extract. These are used in extract brewing, as well as at times added to all grain recipes as needed
The Processes: Mashing (“All grain brewing”) – the process of mixing cracked/crushed malted grains with hot water (usually to a net of around 150 degrees), in order to convert the starches in the grains into fermentable sugars (glucose, maltose, and others). This conversion occurs by activating enzymes that are in the malted grains. The enzymes come from a specific malting process where grains are partially germinated and then dried.
Hops – flowers from a vine like plant. These flowers have both compounds that offer bittering, to balance out the sweet malt flavors of beer, and also flavor and aroma compounds. There are many varieties, and they offer an array of bittering, flavor, and aroma characteristics. How hops are utilized in your beer can be nearly as important, if not more so, than what hops you use. Hops are typically dried and packaged for use. They are often further processed into “pellets”, which makes them more stable for storage. Yeast – a fungus (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) that is used to metabolize sugars in wort (un-fermented beer) and convert them into alcohol and CO2. The two
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The Boil – once you have sweet wort, by AG brewing, extracts, or a combination of the two, it must be boiled for several reasons. 1) sanitation 2) driving off compounds that can later lead to off flavors, 3) boiling the bittering hops to create the bitterness desired through “isomerization” of hop compounds. A typical boil lasts from 60-90 minutes.
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Beer Tips...
To protect the taste of beer you should not store it above 80 degrees for any extended period of time. Beer should not be poured down the side of a slanted glass; rather pour your beer straight into the glass from a height of about 12 inches. The high pour will remove some of the carbon dioxide out of the beer giving it a smoother taste. Beer should not be served to cold. If you want to taste your beer, it is best to serve between 45 to 50 degrees before imbibing.
Chilling – after the boil, the wort must be cooled to correct temperatures for the yeast you are using (pitching temp.). The faster this can happen the better. It makes for cleaner wort and minimizes chance of infection. Once the wort is cooled below 160 degrees, care must be taken to see EVERYTHING it touches is clean and sanitized! Fermentation – is the process by which yeast “eats” the sugars in the wort, and creates flavors, alcohol, and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process can be very temperature sensitive, as yeast will behave differently (and create different flavors) at different temperatures. Most Ale Yeast strains ferment between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Lager yeasts are normally in the 40’s and 50’s. n
If you have poured too fast and your glass is running over, you will find that a little fatty acid will stop the runaway foam. You ask… where do I find fatty acid? Well, we all have fatty acids on our fingers so just put your finger in your beer and the problem is solved. Remember, not all beers are alike, and many of today’s beers can range from 7% to 25% in alcohol content Find out the percentage in the beers you are drinking and drink according. Finally, Drink Responsibly. Remember even a small amount of beer can impair judgment.
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Reserve Your Table Tuesday – Saturday 11:30 AM – 9 PM Sunday 11 AM – 3 PM In Trilogy® at Lake Frederick Near Winchester, Virginia Regions117.com
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by Johnathan Ashley
Every one doesn’t like something... but nobody doesn’t like mac and cheese. When we think of comfort food, one dish that first comes to mind is mac and cheese. We find mac and cheese served at our local church outing, the backyard barbecue, even at upscale restaurants.
H
ow did this favorite food come about? Recipes for early versions have been found in a variety of cookbooks dating as far back as the 14th century. Pasta and cheese casseroles first gained popularity in Europe, especially France, England and Italy. A recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in a 1769 cookbook called The Experienced English Housewife. The love for mac and cheese in America was born when Thomas Jefferson brought the dish to America from Europe (see our companion story,
Jefferson’s Cookbook on page 20). Jefferson was so enamored with mac and cheese in Europe that he tried to design a macaroni-making machine. While that did not work out as planned, he imported Parmesan cheese and macaroni noodles from Italy. In 1802 he served macaroni & cheese at a state dinner and from there the popularity spread throughout the states. Jefferson’s chef cooked the macaroni until it was soft, then coated it with butter and cheese. If you would like to be a history chef, here is the recipe. n
The Jefferson recipe for macaroni and cheese: Butter, for greasing dish 16 ounces large elbow macaroni 3 cups milk 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 2 cups freshly shredded Parmesan cheese 2 cups graded mozzarella cheese 2 cups Romano cheese 2 tablespoons butter
PREPARATION: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Butter a 13 by 9 inch glass baking dish and set aside. In a large pot of boiling water, cook the noodles until tender (8-10 minutes). Drain pot; do not rinse. In a large bowl whisk the milk, flour, salt until blended. Sir in 1 1/2 cups of the three cheeses. Add the noodles and butter, and toss to coat. Transfer to the baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan, mozzarella and Romano cheeses over the noodle mixture. Bake until the cheese turns light brown (12-14 minutes). Let stand for 10 minutes before serving, and season with salt and pepper... enjoy a taste of history.
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Four Edible Cousins...
“ ”
by James Putbrese
Cauliflo wer is nothing but cabbage with a college education.
-Mark Twain
the best way to preserve the enzymes and nutrients.
CABBAGE The botanical name for cabbage is Brassica Cleracea Captiate. It has been cultivated for more than 9,000 years and domesticated for over 2,500. Cabbage was originally collected from the wild and used as a medicinal herb. This wonderful source of food spread from Europe into Mesopotamia and Egypt as a winter vegetable, and later followed the trade routes throughout Asia. Cabbage made its appearance in America in 1538, having been brought to America by a French Explorer. Cabbage is a vegetable you will find year round in your grocery store. However, it is at its peak and readily available at your local farmers market starting in the fall. Cabbage has been called the world's healthiest food. One cup of cabbage contains a full day's recommendation of vitamin K and half the daily amount of vitamin C, and contains only 33 calories. Cabbage is best served sliced or chopped and then steamed or sautéed for approximately five minutes.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS Brussels sprouts are another member of the cabbage family, and is also known for it's cancer fighting properties. Brussels sprouts are touted for their fiber. Also, found year around, they are at their peak in the fall. They should be served steamed or sautéed sliced in half
BROCCOLI With apologizes to H.W. Bush— your mother was right, broccoli tastes good and is good for you. Broccoli is a cousin of the cabbage family and is also an excellent source of vitamins C, K, and A. It has excellent anti-cancer fighting properties. Recent studies suggest steaming as
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CAULIFLOWER Our final cousin is cauliflower. Cauliflower is an excellent alternative to mashed potatoes or rice. You only need to put it in your food processor and voila, you have a healthy alternative to those starch laden potatoes and rice. A side note, the leaves and stems are also edible and make a good addition to soup stock. So, if looking for a vegetable that is ideal for weight loss, contains athocyanins that help prevent dementia, is high in sulfur for healthy skin and nails, contains high potassium that open blood vessels to lower blood pressure, helps with arthritis, and provides an immune system powerful enough to fight off just about any-thing… invite the cousins for dinner. The 10 commandments contain 297 words. The Bill of Rights is stated in 463 words. Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address contains 266 words. A recent Federal directive to regulate the price of cabbage contain 26,911 words. n
Winter 2018
Rockbridge Vineyard...
by James Putbrese
I pass the exit to Rockbridge Winery on my way to and from work several times a week. This has afforded me the opportunity to stop on occasion and purchase a bottle or two or three of some excellent Virginia wines. Shepherd Rouse, along with his wife Jane Millott-Rouse, are the owners of Rockbridge Vineyard. Shep is a graduate of Washington & Lee University in Lexington and holds a Master’s Degree in Enology from the University of California.
B
itten by wine bug while in Germany, Shep made it his goal to produce fine wine in Virginia. In 1988 he and his wife found the perfect site in northern Rockbridge County at 2,000 feet elevation. The cooler temperatures at this elevation are more similar to the finger lakes region of New York than Central or Northern Virginia. This allows Rockbidge to produce some wines that are not suitable for central and northern Virginia, including some excellent Rieslings. While I believe that one should never buy a bottle because of its label, I did just that a few years ago. A bottle with a picture of Jeremiah the bullfrog was impossible to resist. It is a fun wine to drink on the patio, and is rather like drinking concord grapes. Shep’s wife describes it as grape juice for grownups. On the other
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side of the coin their desert vine, VD’OR, in a blind tasting, placed higher than a $350 bottle of one of the top French dessert wines. Rockbridge was the first in Virginia to use cryoconcentration, a refrigeration technology to control fermentation temperatures to create an ice wine. To get to the winery, take I 81 to route 606 west. The winery is just a little over a mile from the exit, and a beautiful drive through Virginia farmland. The winery is on your right and located on a farm, with the tasting room located in the converted red barn. The tasting room is warm and inviting, with a new bar made from the brick silo on the farm. Rockbridge Vineyard is one of the older wineries in Virginia, and been a consistent winner in the Virginia Governors Cup competition. n
37
se s Putbre by Jame
The Perfect Cheese Board For Holiday Entertaining W
inter entertaining is a perfect time to think
With a few pointers from your friendly cheesemonger,
cheese, although my wife would say that I
assembling a cheese board for a party is simple
believe any time is a perfect time to think cheese.
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Dine Wine & Stein
and fun.
~
Winter 2018
I decided to seek advice from one
fire! The instant, salty rush is followed by a subtle sweetness and surpris-
of my favorite cheesemongers in
ingly very little tang. I would like to add my own personal favorite blue
Charlottesville. I explained that I was
cheese. Maytag Blue is made in caves in Maytag, Iowa, the same town
looking for a variety of cheeses from
where the Maytag appliances are manufactured. The cheese is creamy,
differing “cheese families.” A cheese
mild and is the perfect blue for the person who thinks he does not like
board is not complete without a soft,
blue cheese.
semi-soft, an aged hard cheese and a
Wine and cheese are two of life’s great culinary pleasures. As with any
blue. My friendly cheesemonger
wine and food pairing, there are a number of considerations, such as texture,
suggested the perfect cheese board,
acidity, fat and tannin. Here are a few simple pairings for our cheese board.
along with a description of their taste. St. Angel is a soft, cow’s milk,
Your soft cheeses are usually a bit lower in fat than the harder cheeses, so tannic red wines may overwhelm a soft cheese. Lighter reds such as
triple creme from France that is
Chianti and Beaujolais would pair well, as would Chardonnay and
nothing short of a Brie lover’s dream
Viognier. Hard cheeses like cheddar go well with Cabernet Sauvignon,
with its rich, smooth interior encased
Merlot, and if you want a white wine, stay to the heavier whites such as
with a bloomy, white rind. Serve with
as Chardonnay, Montrachet, and Viognier. The strong flavor of a blue
a sweet berry jam, and you’ll experi-
cheese will overpower dry white wines and pair best with sweet wines
ence a marriage that will make you
such as Port, Riesling, Sauternes and many of the dessert wines produced
say “I do.”
by Virginia wine growers. Try it with the Rockbridge Vineyards Vd’Or
McClure is a semi-soft, Swiss style cheese made by the Valley’s
dessert wine and you will find a match made in heaven. Add some fruit, crackers, french bread, almonds or mixed nuts,
own Mountain View Farms in
dates, some jams and chutney and you're all set for the perfect
Fairfield. McClure is a classic raw
wine and cheese party.
n
cow’s milk cheese with a sweet nutty flavor and light, bread doughy texture that goes great on a cheese board, has exceptional melting qualities, and is perfect for every Swiss cheese lover! The choice for a hard cheese was a 3 year and 7 year old white Canadian cheddar from Quebec. They are both made from raw cow’s milk and have a firm crumbly texture that reminds you of the Old World style of cheeses. While both have a sharp, salty tang, the 3 year old is smoother and the 7 year cheddar is a bit more acidic, with bold flavors lingering more on the palate. For a blue cheese a perfect choice is Roquefort...a raw sheep’s milk cheese with an intense flavor that will ignite your palate with a salty
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aver by Marcus We
“
�
The early bird may get the worm, but it is the second mouse who gets the cheese.
-Anonymous
Recently, I was having a discussion with friends about cheeses, a favorite topic of mine. They mentioned they were having a couple over for wine and cheese and asked what cheeses would I recommend. While your choice of cheeses is a personal thing, I mentioned my choice would be good blue cheese (my favorite is Maytag Blue), an aged sharp cheddar, a goat cheese, and brie. If they wanted to make it a bit more elegant, they might serve fruit, crackers, chutney, and brie baked in puff pastry.
I
the excess pastry in the shape of cheese wedges. Bake for 25 minutes or until pastry is golden brown. Wait 15-20 minutes before serving. If you like, prior to putting the brie on the pastry, you may place baked almonds or preserves underneath the brie, before folding over the pastry. Serves 6 Brie is one of the world’s most popular cheeses and can be mild, or strong, and decadently gooey. Here are a few wine pairings to go with brie. Pinot Noir, Merlot, Beaujolais, a dry Rose, an oaked Chardonnay or a sparkling wine. Hard apple cider also goes nicely with brie. A friend recently gave me a 2009 bottle of Blanc De Blanc from Trump Vineyard, which I found paired nicely with the baked brie. n
f you want to make it simple, just drizzle a little honey over a round of brie, bake in the oven at 350 degrees for five minutes and serve. However, if time allows, here is my favorite recipe for puff pastry baked brie. Ingredients: Package of puff pastry. 18 oz. brie cheese round 1 egg 1 tbsp water Heat oven to 400 degrees Place the puff pastry on a lightly floured baking pan. Place brie in the center and fold pastry to cover the brie. Cut off the excess pastry and save the excess to form a design on the pastry. Beat the egg and water in small bowl, and brush the seams of the pastry with the egg mixture. Place the brie seam-side down on a baking sheet. Decorate with the excess pastry and brush with the egg mixture to achieve a golden brown pastry. Not being artistically bent, I usually just shape
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~
Winter 2018
When it comes to spilling wine or dropping food my wife says that my body must contain a magnet that attracts and causes wine and food to spill on me. She said that it is either a magnet, or I am just really clumsy or careless. I choose to think its a magnet.
I
have been known to wear burgundy colored shirts to wine tastings so people will not notice when I spill
my wine. On one occasion, while visiting a vineyard, I put my cell phone on the bar, and the person next to me knocked over their wine glass on my phone...the magnet at work. If you have the same magnetic impulses as myself, I have a suggestion. I never leave home without my Wine Away. It is biodegradable, non-toxic and safe for pets and small children... although so far I have not spilled wine on a pet or small child. I keep a small spray bottle in both cars. If you have aspill, soak up excess wine with a cloth by blotting, not rubbing. Then spray the Wine Away and wait a few minutes and blot. It may be necessary to
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repeat. If possible, you should try soapy water to remove any remaining discoloration. I was having lunch on the patio at a restaurant in Richmond, and the waitress tripped and spilled a container of shrimp sauce on me. (My magnet was hard at work.) This was before I carried a bottle of Wine Away, so I did not have the opportunity to see if it works on shrimp sauce. I can however attest to the fact that Wine Away works on blood, ink and the one final item that I never seem to put the lid on tight... coffee. In addition to my burgundy shirt I also have a brown shirt I wear when I go for coffee. You should be able to find Wine Away in most wine shops. It comes in a large size for your home and a smaller size to take with you in your automobile. n
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by James Putbrese
“
How To Eggxactly Check the Freshness of Your Egg
”
If you want breakfast in bed… sleep in the kitchen.
H
-My Wife
ere is a simple test to determine the freshness of your egg. Simply submerge your egg in a container of water. A fresh egg will lie flat on the bottom, while an egg that is about a week old will be sightly buoyant. After about three weeks an egg will stand on its end in the water and should be used relatively soon. However, if the egg floats all the way to the surface of the water, it is not a fresh egg. This does not mean it is necessarily bad, but you should test the egg before using. The reason this works is that eggs have a thin membrane inside which forms air pockets. The egg shell is porous, and overtime the liquid in the egg evaporates and is replaced by outside air, resulting isna more buoyant egg. The best eggs for making hard boiled eggs are eggs that are about a week old. The air pocket has expanded, which makes an egg easier to peal. n
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by Jonathan Ashley
Rioja Wine...
As you meander down the isle of your local wine shop, you will begin to notice that
it now includes a much larger selection of Spanish wines. Spain has captured third place worldwide
for its wine producing capacity. In the past five years the importation of Spanish wines to the United States has increased by 75% and theywill likely continue to gain acceptance from American wine drinkers.
I
other grapes that are often blended with Tempranillo are Mazuelo and Granciano. If you enjoy white wines, Viura is the dominant white grape grown in the Rioja region, however, whites only account for about 10% of Rioja’s total wine production. There are three Rioja red wine classifications that you may find on the label of the bottle. The first is Crianza. This is a fresh, fruit favored youthful red wine that is
f you’re looking for a wine of quality, tradition and technology at a reasonable price, you may want to start with the Rioja region of Spain. With its mountain ranges and the Ebro river winding through the region, it is an area truly made for wine-making success. The region is strategically located between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. The majority of the Rioja region wines are produced from the Tempranillo grape. Two
TELL
Dine& THEM Wine
SENT
YOU
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Winter 2018
Stein
aged in oak for a minimum of one year and then an additional year aging in the bottle. If you are at a tapas restaurant, and this wine is on the list, it would be an excellent dinner choice. The wine is an everyday wine that offers a consistent value and is normally priced around $10 to $12 a bottle. The second Rioja red wine classification is Reserva. This is a very versatile red wine that complements an assortment of food options, including fish, beef and lamb. It offers more complexity than the Crianza, has a finish of cherry and is usually aged for three years. The price ranges from $15 to $30 a bottle and is an excellent value. The creme de la creme of the Rioja region of Spain is the Gran Reserva. This wine offers both depth and body without breaking the bank. The price will usually start around $20 and rivals many reds that are asking triple the price. If you were to summarize Spanish wine in a single word, it would be value and quality. All right, so it took two words. n
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�
There comes a time in the day when no matter what the question is, the answer is always wine.
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~Anonymous
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