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H’WOOD’S CAUSE CELEB EARTH DAY FROM CLIMATE CHANGE TO ECO CHIC, WE’RE TALKING ABOUT IT! PLUS STELLA MCCARTNEY MICHAEL GOVAN ANNA CAMP MB’S FOODIE REVOLUTION!

For LA’s eco A-list, the islands’ secluded spots reveal the true essence of Hawaii. BY KATHRYN DRURY WAGNER

LEFT TO RIGHT:

Maui’s Hamoa Beach, with its crescent of salt-and-pepper sand, is among “America’s Top 10 Beaches,” according to the list compiled by environmentalist Dr. Beach. Dancers from Halau Palaihiwa O Kaipuwai hula school perform at the East Maui Taro Festival, an annual event that delivers live music and cultural demonstrations.

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Hidden Hawaii

Like any world-class destination, Hawaii offers glossy retail scenes, swanky dining options, and elite-chic accommodations. But if pampering isn’t all you’re after—if you seek a more intimate glimpse into the culture and community of the islands—then step off the beaten, albeit picturesque, path. We’ve uncovered some new ways to get an unforgettable, authentic Hawaii experience.

THE END OF THE ROAD: HANA Some 500,000 people drive Maui’s Hana Highway each year, reveling in the twisting road and luxuriant scenery, but few visitors spend any time in the rugged coastal town that is Hana. “It’s a destination of its own; a lot of people call it ‘the last Hawaiian place,’” says resident Judy Kinser. The community is mostly Hawaiian or part Hawaiian; some people still use throw-nets to catch fish in the manner of their ancestors. “You can connect to the earth in Hana. It’s the place to go if you want to sit on the lanai, watch the stars, and hear the waves,” says Maggie Wagner, the senior director of spa and retail at Travaasa Hana, Maui (travaasa.com/hana). Her suggestion? “Stop at the roadside stands for great local fruit; pick up some papaya and coffee.” Not all of the area’s crops are reserved for snacking. Wagner works with a local plantation, Hana Gold, to source organic cacao for her spa’s newest indulgence, the Cocomint body treatment and massage. “Cacao is great for your skin; it has a lot of healing properties and antioxidants,” she says. The 90-minute treatment also involves shea butter, coconut-mint oil, and an organic aloe face mask. She also recommends visitors bask on Hamoa Beach (hamoabeach.org), a crescent of salt-and-pepper sand that has been listed in environmental scientist Dr. Beach’s list of America’s Top 10 Beaches. Another can’t-miss is Hana’s tropical botanical site, Kahanu Garden (ntbg.org/gardens), which presents a superlush collection of Polynesian plants. It’s also the location of the remains of a sacred temple, Pi’ilanihale Heiau. The largest stone temple in Hawaii, this ancient place of worship dates back to at least 1500 and was built over several centuries out of lava rock—without the benefit of mortar. It is believed to hold great mana, or powerful spiritual significance. If you can, plan to be in town on April 25 for the East Maui Taro Festival (tarofestival.org). This free fête is in its 23rd year, and delivers live music and cultural demonstrations, such as poi pounding—poi is the Hawaiian staple food made from taro, called “kalo” in the Hawaiian language. Taro is one of the most nutritious foods in the world, and the festival has 20 booths with dishes such as taro seafood chowder, taro burgers, and taro gelato. “We always sell out of kulolo, a dessert made of mashed-up taro and mixed with coconut milk and cane sugar, then baked for hours,” says Kinser, who is the event’s coordinator. If you can’t stomach the curlicue drive to Hana, fly in, instead: Mokulele Airlines (mokuleleairlines.com) operates puddle-jumper flights from Kahului, turning a three-hour-plus trek into a quick jaunt.

THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY: HANAPEPE Located on Kauai’s southwest shore, Hanapepe is a place that time… well, perhaps it didn’t forget, but it seems to have granted it a free pass. The town is filled with 1920s buildings, built in false-front pioneer style by Chinese immigrants. It has the vibe of a silenced Western movie set gone Gauguin. Hanapepe wasn’t always so isolated. In the 1930s and ’40s, it bustled with GIs on R&R and activity from the port and airport. Then everything moved to Lihu’e. By the 1970s, the village had largely been abandoned, leaving the historical buildings empty. Luckily, artists saw the potential—and cheap rents—and moved in, beginning the town’s renaissance. Today, Hanapepe boasts three blocks’ worth of fetching galleries and shops amid the otherworldly

architecture. “It’s a really wonderful town in which to find local art,” says resident Joanna Carolan. Herself an artist, Carolan founded the Banana Patch Studio (bajmnanapatchstudio.com) in 1991, restoring a 1926 building that had once been a bakery and pool hall. Shoppers with a discerning eye browse the town’s intimate fine art galleries, on the hunt for paintings, mixed media, jewelry, and photography. Some galleries offer private showings, but do call ahead to make arrangements. With curators setting their own hours, you may find a gallery closed when the surf’s up. The time to visit is on Friday evenings for the weekly Art Night, held from 6 to 9 PM. Musicians—from slack key to string quartets—come from all over the

THIS PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GRAND WAILEA (LOFARO, LOBSTER)

Kauai’s Kalalau Trail is “one of the most treacherous” to hike, according to local Robert Miguel, but its primordial beauty is worth the risk.

Musicians from all over Kauai perform in the streets of Hanapepe during Art Night.

MIKE LOFARO: CATCH OF THE DAY Chef de cuisine Mike Lofaro harvests fresh fish and shellfish for Humu restaurant at the Grand Wailea Resort on Maui.

Robert Miguel, island pursuits manager at Kukui’ula, a luxury residential community on Kauai’s south side, takes a paddleboarding break.

Humuhumunukunukuapua’a (“humu” for the Hawaiianchallenged) is the colorful state fish Ceramics at Banana Patch Studio are fired on-site by craftsmen using a solar-powered kiln.

of Hawaii, and also the namesake of a sunset-drenched restaurant at the Grand Wailea Resort (grandwailea. com), on Maui’s southwest shore. Chef de cuisine Mike Lofaro is on a hot streak after being named

“Don’t fill your vacation too much. You’ll miss the truth of the island.” —ROBERT MIGUEL

“Best Maui Chef” and Humu “Best Resort Restaurant” by the The Maui News. He spends most mornings communing with the ocean surrounding the island, surfing, paddling, fishing, or spearfishing. The sea has inspired both his hobbies and his cooking style ever since he

island to perform in the streets, and food trucks hang out their shingles. How about the end of the week? Decidedly slower. “Sundays are old-school,” says Carolan. “We’re closed. The church is open.” A lifelong resident of Kauai, Robert Miguel grew up in Hanapepe. He puts his local knowledge to the test at his job; he’s the island pursuits manager at luxury residential community Kukui’ula, located on Kauai’s south side (kukuiula.com). The 1,010-acre development has oceanview home sites, bungalows, and plantation-style cottages as well as 15 cottages available for nightly rental. Miguel shows the community’s members and guests around the island, leading them on adventures such as paddling, canoeing, or hiking the Kalalau Trail (kalalautrail.com). “It’s one of the most treacherous trails in the world, constantly in the top-five hikes,” says Miguel. “Eleven miles of uneven terrain, switchbacks. It’s on the North Shore. You get to do several stream crossings, and there are beautiful white-sand beaches at the end and a waterfall you can bathe in. The terrain remains how it has been since the time of the ancient Hawaiians.” When planning activities for his guests, he often leaves in an extra day or two of complete leisure. He says, “Don’t fill your vacation too much. You’ll miss the truth of the island. Let the day sink in. There’s a rejuvenation thing that comes into play on Kauai… that’s the magic of Hawaii!” LAC

was a 13-year-old kid on Block Island, Rhode Island, peeling shrimp and cleaning mussels at a seafood shack. After training at the Culinary Institute of America, he further honed his seafood prowess in San Francisco under renowned chef Michael Mina of Aqua fame. Lofaro’s seafood features “bright, acidic, refreshing flavors,” he says. “I’m really into raw seafood lately… onaga sashimi, ahi poke, kampachi from the Big Island, ono, hamachi.” But ingredients without gills receive careful attention, too. Lofaro has cultivated relationships with farmers to source Maui-grown eggplant, mustard greens, kale, and papaya. Mike McCoy, of Fresh Island Herbs, provides the chef with curry leaf, citrus, baby fennel, kumquats, loquats, and microgreens. “I talk to him almost on a daily basis to see what is coming up,” says Lofaro. “It’s a symbiotic relationship.” Diners at Humu won’t be spearfishing with Lofaro, but they’ll come pretty close. A million-gallon saltwater lagoon surrounds the oceanside restaurant, and patrons can select their own Maine lobster or Hawaiian spiny lobster. This just may be the most sophisticated take on a seafood shack, ever.

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S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 15 , 2 015

WEEKEND ESCAPE | GOLETA, CALIF.

NEED TO KNOW NEWS • TIPS • TRENDS

Donated luggage can help everyone You can donate your gently used rolling luggage to charity and receive credit for a new bag. The program, by way of luggage maker Briggs & Riley, donates the bags to foster homes, women’s shelters, and organizations such as local Ronald McDonald House chapters, a company statement said. Turn in a Briggs & Riley bag, and you’ll receive a $100 credit to buy a new Briggs & Riley bag; turn in any bag and you’ll receive a $50 credit toward a Briggs & Riley bag. The luggage comes in four collections and costs $299 for a wheelie carryon to $699 for a large wheeled wardrobe. For a list of participating stores and more information: www.lat.ms/1Me1ChH — Mary Forgione

Schaefer Portrait Challenge

See faces of Hawaii

Valli Herman

RETRO YET OF THE MOMENT is the vibe at Kimpton Goodland in Goleta. Its pool is designed for energetic youngsters.

Ulterior motive Laid-back mom wants to shop and chill — with her energetic teen son. The Santa Barbara area provides a satisfying adventure for both. BY VALLI HERMAN >>> Traveling with a teenager doesn’t often offer appealing options for keeping parent and child equally entertained. Laid-back mom avoids commotion; high-energy kid craves action. The (sneaky) compromise? A vacation that can do double duty as an introduction to college. A two-hour drive to the town of Goleta gave us a look at a new hipster hotel, a student-swarmed college town and a peek at Antioch University, the Brooks Institute and UC Santa Barbara. The tab: from $229 a night, depending on the season, at the Goodland, $65 for dinner, $50 for breakfast and $10 for ice cream.

Visitors to Maui can explore the varied faces of the people of Hawaii in a free art exhibition in Kahului. Works of art from the Schaefer Portrait Challenge are on display through mid-March at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. Every three years, the center invites artists working in various media — including painting, printmaking and sculpture — to submit works that depict the people and stories of Hawaii through what’s called “explorations in portraiture.” This year’s exhibition contains 66 works by more than 60 artists from the Big Island of Hawaii, Kauai, Lanai, Maui and Oahu. Their works represent people of various cultural and ethnic backgrounds and vary from literal to abstract. The portraits are displayed in the center’s Schaefer International Gallery, open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays. Admission is free. Guests who visit by March 8 can vote for the People’s Choice Award. It, along with a $5,000 prize, will be awarded during a reception at 5 p.m. March 15. Info: www.mauiarts.org — Jay Jones

The bed Done up with a retro, ecoconscious, surfer vibe, the 5month-old Kimpton Goodland (5650 Calle Real, [805] 964-6241, www.thegoodland.com), formerly a Holiday Inn, brings a big dose of hipster cred to Goleta, just a few miles north of Santa Barbara. The boutique hotel’s record player, vinyl albums and vintage mini-bar snacks (Goo Goo Cluster, Pop Rocks) let me share with my teen artifacts of my childhood. (“What? Albums have two sides?” he said in mock surprise.) Our comfortable room had the cheerful personality of an Ikea-shopping millennial: a mix of ethnic-textile-covered pillows, throws and walls; reclaimed wood fronted the dresser; and sliding barn doors concealed the colorful, concretetiled bathroom. Complimentary bicycles and a spacious pool area let youngsters burn off energy. Kids 17 and younger stay free when accompanied by an adult.

The meal Goleta seems to favor lunchoriented restaurants in strip malls such as the Calle Real Center next door to the Goodland. At the mall’s Nikka Fish Market & Grill (5722 Calle Real, [805] 967-2600, www.nikkafish marketandgrill.com), we hovered over the chalkboard menu of specials (lobster roll, shrimp enchiladas) and eyed the display case of fresh fish cooked to order (grilled, fried, burgers, pasta) and promised to return for lunch. For dinner, the lively atmosphere at the hotel’s restaurant, the Outpost (5650 Calle Real, [805] 964-1288, www.outpostsb.com), lured us to a tasty and convenient meal of tacos, empanadas and bao buns. For breakfast, we drove about five miles to downtown Santa Barbara’s Tupelo Junction Cafe (1218 State St., [805] 899-3100, www.tupelo junction.com) for the generous portions that can fill a teen boy (for a little while). Our picks: a starter of apple beignets; deepdish mac ’n’ cheese with collard greens; and a hearty spinach, bacon, caramelized onion and Gouda scramble with homemade banana pecan bread.

Mark Boster L.A. Times

State’s parks online

Valli Herman

RECLAIMED WOOD and sustainable materials accent the rooms at the Kimpton Goodland.

Barn-like doors conceal the bathroom and closet. Bold textiles provide decoration.

Ventura

Santa Clarita 101

Los Angeles

Channel Islands National Park Pacific Ocean 20 MILES

Santa Catalina

Sources: Mapbox, OpenStreetMap Lou S pi ri to Los Angeles Times

Al Seib Los Angeles Times

STATE STREET in Santa Barbara is well stocked with shops

— including an Apple Store — yet can feel surprisingly bucolic.

latimes.com /weekendescapes

Go online for more Weekend Escapes.

The find Santa Barbara’s downtown State Street was so uncrowded, it felt bucolic even with a noticeable and sometimes-aggressive population of panhandlers. The street’s trendy clothing and shoe stores, bicycle shops, Apple

Lancaster

Santa Barbara

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Goleta

A new website allows you to search all California parklands, from the big national parks to local dog parks. The CaliParks website — www.caliparks.org — will help you plan your next adventure at 11,826 parks statewide and find what you’re looking for in one place. It works in English and Spanish on smartphones and tablets as well as laptops and desktop computers. You can search national, state, regional and urban parks to connect with a place to hike or surf. Enter the city or ZIP Code you’re interested in or check out CaliParks’ favorites on the home page. If you’re thinking of going to a national park today (Sunday) or Monday, admission will be free (although not all charge admission). National forests, such as Angeles and Los Padres sites in Southern California, offer free admission on Monday only. Info: www.lat.ms/1EZjtXy — Mary Forgione

was able to survey the gourmet Santa Barbara brand’s entire collection and sample new flavors such as Sea Salt Cream & Cookies and Salted Caramel Chip.

The lesson learned Store and cafes held my son’s interest — especially Antique Alley’s collection of vintage cameras. Did I mention I was traveling with a hungry teen? Spotting a sparkling-clean, full-size McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, he

Kicking off the school search process with a quick trip has made the looming prospect of finding a college real — and a real adventure. travel@latimes.com

Valli Herman

ICE CREAM from McCon-

nell’s in Santa Barbara.

JamStik.com

Mobile guitar tutor Travel with a song in your heart and you can be accompanied by a guitar (sort of) in your hands — and learn to play it. All you need is an iPad, iPhone or Mac (sorry, Android) and the new Zivix Jamstik, a 16-inch, 3-pound device with steel strings and frets. The guitar (which looks like a guitar neck), is powered by an included rechargeable battery and connects wirelessly to your device by way of a proprietary interface with Jamstik Connect, the free app. A free music app, jamTutor, becomes your mobile teacher, and an online Jamstik-playing human takes you through the basics. The Jamstik comes with an adjustable neck strap, a micro USB charging cable and two guitar picks. A Bluetooth model is due this year. The digital guitar costs $280. Information: www.jamstik.com — Judi Dash

Longtime arts patron Evelyn Siegel gives back

Singing the praises of the Texas Boys Choir

In the kitchen with chef Lina Biancamano

Fort Worth designer puts her mark on global hot spots

A FULL-CIRCLE VIEW OF WHERE WE LIVE

SUMMER Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to cool things down when the weather heats up

SPLASH

$3.95 May 2016

Destinations

WELCOME TO WANDERLAND

At Mayakoba Rosewood, this beachfront terrace offers a palm-shaded deck, plunge pool and the perfect view of white sand, azure water and blue sky.

1,600 acres. Three properties. Fresh-water canals. Pools galore. And oh, the beaches. A Mexico-savvy WUDYHOHU Ã&#x20AC;QGV WKLV Yucatan resort to be a seaside jungle sanctuary like no other. By Marita Adair

96 May 2016 360westmagazine.com

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Bird watchers get a view of a limpkin as he nabs an apple snail, an abundant favorite snack. Photo by IvĂĄn GabaldĂłn/rideintobirdland.com

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Some resort guests arrive at their accommodations via electric water taxis that shuttle through the freshwater canals â&#x20AC;&#x201D; handy when your lodging is on the water. Left, a partial overview of the Fairmont shows how water comes into play: ocean in front, puzzle-piece pool in the middle and casitas facing both canals and sea. Below, at the Rosewood, pools and ocean are mere steps apart.

Photos courtesy of Mayakoba Resort

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Destinations

WELCOME TO WANDERLAND

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98 May 2016 360westmagazine.com

YOU CALL THEM RESTAURANTS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; WE CALL THEM

Fresh seafood appetizers are served beachside at Fairmontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Las Brisas. Photo by Marita Adair

THE DETAILS Mayakoba The resort offers three luxury hotels in three price ranges: Rosewood, Banyan Tree and Fairmont. The accommodations and other MHJPSP[PLZ ZP[ VU HJYLZ TPU\[LZ ZV\[O of Cancun and 10 minutes north of Playa del Carmen on Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riviera Maya. Each hotel cooperatively shares amenities and activities plus complimentary transport within the resort. TV, telephone and Wi-Fi are available in each room. For rates and information, visit mayakoba.com. Who goes here Singles, couples and families seeking an uncrowded, service-focused tropical setting paired with beach, sporting and jungle nature activities, as well as the convenience of multiple dining choices and local culture â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all without leaving the resort. What to do All Mayakoba: 18-hole golf course, a mile of private beach, 18 restaurants and bars, three spas, multiple swimming pools, threeday photography workshop, staffed kids clubs, kayaking, archery, tennis, nature and jogging trail, canal boat rides, biking, pro shop, shopping. Special activities: Banyan â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Asian-focused cooking classes, daily yoga, moonlight and breakfast dining for two by boat, turtle release twice yearly. Rosewood â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Bees Farm Tour, tequila tasting. Fairmont â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cooking school, Mexican craft beer tasting. Hotel guests at any of the three hotels may partake of amenities at other hotels. Several activities require advance reservation and are offered at an extra price. What to pack Golf clubs, swimsuit, lightweight resort attire with slightly more special, but casual, duds MVY Ă&#x201E; UL KPUPUN

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Destinations

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WELCOME TO WANDERLAND

A Nuduul concierge will help you spend less time making vacation plans and more time making memories.

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You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to stay at a five star hotel to enjoy five star service. From equipment rentals and local excursions to dinner reservations or groceries, a Nuduul concierge will help you spend less time planning your vacation and more time enjoying your vacation. Meet your personal destination assistant at Nuduul.com

#ConciergeforEveryone A water taxi glides by the perfectly manicured 18-hole golf course.

SOUTHWEST THE MAGAZINE

67 ways to soak up summer MAY 2016

MAY 2016

SITTEE RIVER, BELIZE One of the first things you might notice on the Jungle River Tour with hamanasi resort (rooms from $333; excursions $65) in Hopkins, Belize, is the noise: Brilliantly colored birds ranging from parakeets to keelbilled toucans sing in the canopy of trees above, quite the soundtrack as you canoe down the coastal Sittee River. Also keep an eye out for bobbing saltwater crocs and green and orange iguanas. MOHICAN RIVER, OHIO Prefer a relaxed day on the water? Rent inner tubes from mohican adventures ($15) in central Ohio and float along the Mohican River. The lazy 7-mile route winds through dense forest and sun-filled ravines. Reserve an extra tube for your cooler full of food, or stop at one of the snack bars on the riverbank. When night falls, bed down in one of Mohican Adventures’ cabins (from $100 for up to seven people). MAY RIVER, SOUTH CAROLINA History buffs will love exploring the May River in Bluffton, South Carolina, aboard the Grace, one of the few gas-powered pre–World War I yachts left in the U.S. The boat was recently restored—to the tune of $1 million—by montage palmetto bluff (rooms from $275; sails from $50) and now sports everything from a new engine to a fresh coat of paint. Enjoy a glass of champagne and hors d’oeuvres on a sunset tour, or sample wines on the Sommelier Sip and Sail. MISSISSIPPI RIVER While river cruising got its start in Europe, it’s making inroads in the U.S. on waterways like the Mighty Mississippi. On american may 2016 southwest 51