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MEXICO A Slice of Sustainable
As Mexico’s glitzy Cancun flourished, visitors soon yearned for a more authentic, local, natural alternative to the mega-resort area, and the Riviera Maya Mayakoba was built—with sustainability in mind.
By Nicole Dorsey
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Organic Spa Magazine | March–April 2013
Along the far eastern portion of the Yucatan Peninsula, stretching south of Cancun for 75 miles and running parallel to the Caribbean, the Riviera Maya coastline opens to still-deserted white-sand beaches and the legacy of an ancient empire. Known in Mexico as “The Venice of the Yucatan,” the region remained isolated from the rest of the country for hundreds of years due to the lack of adequate roads. As Cancun urbanized, visitors soon yearned for mellower, more authentic alternatives to the megaglitzy resorts, and the Riviera Maya was discovered. At Mayakoba, an eco-friendly resort development that includes three luxury hotels surrounded by natural lagoons that pay homage to local wildlife and rare birds, the varied landscape of mangrove swamps, jungle beaches, protective sand dunes and barrier reefs looks like a different world. Local biologist Hector Alafita, an environmental advisor, remembers watching the neighboring shorelines erode. “To preserve the natural balance of the delicate eco-systems here, we replanted 47,000 mangroves, recovered indigenous seedlings, and 108 species were saved,” says Alafita. The coastline is dotted with cenotes (naturally occurring sinkholes), a bio-diverse network of underground canals that lie close to the limestone surface. Created by rare underground river systems, ancient Mayans considered cenotes sacred, possibly the entrance to the underworld. Miles of fresh-water lagoons connect 590 square miles of jungle, an area full of iguana, fish, pelicans, monkeys, turtles and crocodiles. The unique canals and coastal byways are collectively known as the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System (also known as the Belize Barrier Reef) and
continue southward to Guatemala. While this is the second largest continuous coral reef system in the world, it’s also extremely diverse—and fragile, Alafita says. “We learned the hard way that you must build farther away from the fragile eco-systems along the coastline, in back of the mangrove forests that naturally protect the coral reefs,” says James Batt, vice president of Operations and Marketing for Mayakoba. Here is a slice of sustainable Mexico.
ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA The Annual Virtuoso Travel Mart show and Hotel Awards awarded the Rosewood Mayakoba its “Most Socially Responsible Hotel” honor in 2011. Along a mile of white-sand beach, the mangrove jungle at Rosewood is at the heart of the ecological enclave, says Alonzo Ortiz, the Environmental Responsibility Manager on site. Using indigenous materials such as Yucatán limestone and renewable woods, the resort design emphasizes simplicity with a natural, dramatic backdrop. “Mayakoba’s architects crafted a complex plan in which the natural and man-made aspects would intertwine, complementing and enhancing each other,” explains Ortiz. “The beach, golf course, mangrove swamp and jungle are linked by an aquamarine chain of lagoons and canals using subterranean water,” says Ortiz. Environmental thoughtfulness continues at the Sense Spa, where signature treatments embody the simplicity of an ancient culture, and where local abuelas, or grandmas, still make their own corn tortillas without electricity or running water. Common
Rosewood Mayakoba Punta Bonita Pool
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Organic Spa Magazine | March–April 2013
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Take an electric boat ride along the lagoon, where you’ll spot vibrant fish in forest-green cenotes, plus rare waterfowl, including boat-billed heron, ospreys, roseate spoonbills and wood storks.
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Organic Spa Magazine | March–April 2013
local ingredients are used, including agave plants, volcanic rock and medicinal herbs from the garden, including organic aloe, eucylyptus and tepezcouhite, a Mayan herb used by elders to heal skin ailments, according to Spa Director Emmanuel Arroyo. There are 128 suites on either beachfront or on lagoons, and the down-home Mexican fare includes Marlin Tostadas, Scallop Ceviche and daily tequila tastings. mayakoba.spa@ rosewoodhotels.com
BANYAN TREE MAYAKOBA Six miles of freshwater lagoons lead to silvery sand Caribbean beaches. Here, electric golf carts and boats traverse resort beach clubs and a dozen restaurants, ecologically connecting several hotels in order to minimize cars and noise pollution. Amidst a tropical array of more than 200 species of flora and fauna, 132 pool villas are built into the carefully conserved landscape and tempt you to lounge the day away on your hammock. (My private plunge pool was so big, I did laps waiting for Tarzan to swing into my courtyard.) After dodging killer backhands and taking a restorative yoga class, most honeymooners opt for a romantic dinner on Banyan Tree’s drifting barge, the “Ixchel Goddess of the Moon,” which serves private meals for two in a secluded corner of the lagoon. Outdoor adventures include snorkeling, kayaking and cooking classes, but make time to visit the El Camaléon golf course designed by pro Greg Norman, host of the PGA Tour in Mexico. The course earns its name by weaving through three ecosystems: jungle, dense mangrove and oceanfront stretches. Banyantree.com/en/mayakoba
FAIRMONT MAYAKOBA Set along winding bayou-like canals that run to outlying beaches, this AAA five-diamond resort hosts 401 rooms including many family-friendly lagoon casitas. To experience the mangroves as sustainably as possible, try the Mangrove Boat Tour from the Fairmont to the Banyan Tree Riviera Maya on an electric-powered lancha (covered boat). Led by a nature guide— and accompanied by Batt, an avid birder—this interactive twohour session guides guests on an animal-spotting adventure, sharing knowledge of creatures including tortoises, iguanas and even crocodiles living freely in their natural habitat. Batt recommends one of the less famous archaeological excursions, just a 20-minute taxi ride past Tulum and crowded Chichen Itza, and you can poke around the Coba archaeological zone dotted with original adobe huts covered by jungle, barely visible from the newer roads. I visited Nohoch Mul, the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan Peninsula: 12 stories straight up slippery horizontal stone staircase, but the prize at the top is a magnificent forest panorama with the pinnacles of ancient ruins protruding above a jungle canopy. Camera? Mandatory! fairmont.com/mayakoba-riviera-maya Clockwise, from top left: Exterior view of the lobby at Banyan Tree Mayakoba, with electric boat that connects the properties through canals; Spa treatment room at Rosewood Mayakoba; billed heron; suites on the lagoon; The Fairmont Mayakoba.
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ANCIENT MAYAN SECRETS: VICEROY RIVIERA MAYA A few miles down the road sits the Viceroy, which welcomes guests with a Mayan Blessing performed by an in-house shaman. Rising from the tropical expanse of forest, 41 private villas feature outdoor showers and high-ceiling thatched-palapa roofs. The area surrounding the Wayak Spa is blessed with some of the world’s most extensive selections of native herbs. Perfumed by the sacred aroma of copal—a resin incense used in spiritual ceremonies—local traditions infuse each aspect of the experience. Signature treatments (in six airy rooms) at the Viceroy Riviera Maya feature local products and celebrate the honey derived from the hotel’s hive with hundreds of hard-working meliponas bees. Other indigenous luxuries:
° Deep wooden bath tubs carved from downed local Zapote Trees, and aromatherapy baths infused with medical herbs harvested from the resort’s organic herb gardens. ° The Xocolate Massage (80 minutes) offers an antioxidant zing with a firming chocolate body masque that utilizes caffeinated cocoa beans to boost circulation. ° The Kuxtal (Mayan baths; 50 minutes) steam-heat, with torrid steam rooms and an intense exfoliation using natural cloth followed by milk-andhoney hydration. ° After your Mayan ritual, schedule a Tequila Lesson or a ceviche tasting on the veranda, try Pilates or learn how to prepare tortillas the way Mayans did a thousand years ago. viceroyrivieramaya.com.
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museum N!w M!xi#o Mu%!um of art: 107 wes% P"l"ce; 505476-5072, #m"r%museum. or' G!orgi" O’K!!ff! Mu%!um: 217 Joh#s%o#; 505-946-1000, o(eefemuseum.or' G!orgi": 225 Joh#s%o#; 505-989-4367, 'eor'i"s"#%"fe.com L" c"%" s!n": 125 E. P"l"ce; 505-988-9232, l"c"s"se#".com cl"fouti%: 402 gu"$"lupe, 505-988-1809
town north of Santa museum itself is a gem of sitting a spell in the Landscapes,” the 2014 Fe where she lived and Pueblo Spanish Revival dark, often offers related biennial, features works worked. (A great day trip architecture, wrapped lectures with its films. by 45 artists from 15 if you have time.) around a sunny, grassy It’s at the Center for countries. Ten projects Next door to the Contemporary Arts Santa courtyard. are commissions as At the Georgia O’Keeffe museum, the new Georgia Fe, a cool, cavernous diverse as “The Great restaurant honors her Museum, we veered off space known for its Tree,” Colombian spirit with beautifully the contemporary path exhibitions of provocative Miler Lagos’ sculpture prepared, artfully but were reminded why visual art. made from four tons of plated contemporary one of New Mexico’s Near the historic newspapers; New Yorker American dinners in most iconic artists plaza, we visited three Jason Middlebrook’s a warm, sophisticated always deserves a look: museums in one not-too“Your General Store,” environment. Other The woman could rushed afternoon. A local a trading post in an good restaurants — paint, seriously, barely curator recommended old shipping container including the Compound, showing a brush stroke. the Museum of where merchandise will ! Geronimo (whose owners In a smallish, narrow Contemporary Native be available for barter L2!|!Sunday,!August!10,!2014!|!Houston!Chronicle!|!HoustonChronicle.com!and!chron.com!xxx! built Georgia) and El gallery we also learned Arts, where exhibitions only; and the Bahaman
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specialty boutiques. Many dealers occupy rambling, century-old adobe structures with slanted floors and vigas ceilings. Matthews Gallery, which recently reintroduced the work of 20th-century sculptor Hannah Stewart, is one such place. Nearby the more roomy Chiaroscuro shows fine contemporary works in Zen-like galleries you may not want to leave. molly.glentzer@chron.com
TRavel NOW by Jody Schmal
PACk yOuR CAMERA: PhOTO TOuRS AROuND ThE GLOBE RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO T!e Caribbean’s five-star Ma#a$oba resort is teaming %p wit! veteran National Geograp!ic wildlife p!otojo%rnalists to offer its new Wildlife P!oto MasterClass wee$ends. T!e pac$age incl%des wor$s!ops, lect%res, one-on-one g%idance and dail# exc%rsions, pl%s t!ree nig!ts and meals at t!e Ban#an Tree Ma#a$oba !otel. Sept. 4-7, Oct. 30-Nov. 2 and Dec. 11-14. All s$ill levels welcome. Rates from $2,499 based on do%ble occ%panc#; 1-800-5910439, offers.ban#antree.com.
RATON, N.M. Ted T%rner’s 590,000-acre private Vermejo Par$ Ranc! will !ost t!e fo%r-da#, five-nig!t El$ R%t & Aspen P!oto To%r next mont! d%ring t!e Roc$# Mo%ntain el$ r%t season and fall’s most colorf%l landscape. T!e trip incl%des dail# g%ided p!otograp!# advent%res, incl%ding a landscape session wit! wildlife p!otograp!er Jeff Par$er, as well as p!oto reviews, famil#-st#le meals and nig!tl# lodging. Sept. 24-29. All s$ill levels welcome. Rates from $2,995 per person; 575-445-3097, vermejopar$ranc!.com.
Foto R%ta
Buenos Aires, Aregentina-based experiential-travel-savvy company Foto Ruta has launched a new location in London.
Associated Press
Vermejo Park Ranch will host the four-day, fivenight Elk Rut & Aspen Photo Tour.
LONDON B%enos Aires, Argentina-based experiential-travel-savv# Foto R%ta !as la%nc!ed new locations in Barcelona and London, offering reg%lar p!otograp!# to%rs in bot! cities. T!e London offerings incl%de t!e g%ided, !alf-da# Street Scape to%r (abo%t $135) t!at visits nonto%rist#, off-t!e-beaten pat! spots aro%nd t!e cit#, as well as t!e f%ll-da# Foto R%ta Academ# (abo%t $340) w!ic! is a more c%stomized to%r wit! p!otograp!# instr%ction. To boo$, cons%lt foto-r%ta.co.%$ or email !ello@foto-r%ta.co.%$.
Ma#a$oba
Mayakoba resort in Mexico’s Rivera Maya has a new Wildlife Photo MasterClass weekend package.
SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND AND THE ANTARCTIC Icebergs, w!ales, peng%ins, albatross and more !ave starring roles in t!is 20-da# p!oto expedition led b# ho%ston landscape p!otograp!er And# Biggs and Jos!%a hol$o. On board an “ice !ardened” researc!-t%rned-passenger vessel, passengers will sail (weat!er permitting) from us!%aia, Argentina, and visit t!e Fal$land Islands, So%t! Georgia Island, t!e So%t! S!etland Islands and spend plent# of time on remote seas. Nov. 3-22. Rates from $13,660 per person (triple occ%panc#); and#biggs.com.
Associated Press
Icebergs have a starring role in a photo expedition to South Georgia Island and Antarctica.