A L OV E L E T T E R T O T E A
THE FINAL FÊTE
The District Fray team reflects on some of our favorite stories and collaborations in 2023.
M E E T G E O R G E T OW N ’S B E S T N E W C H E F I N A M E R I C A
F R O M M O M - A N D - P O P T O M I C H E L I N : 2 5 L O C A L R E S TA U R A N T S T O K N O W C A N ’ T- M I S S H O L I DAY M A R K E T S
H O LY S M O K E S : I N S I D E I V Y C I T Y S M O K E H O U S E
FRE NC H - INS PIRE D PE TITE C E RIS E BRINGS JOIE DE VIVRE TO D.C .
D.C .’S LI F E ST Y LE + E NTE RTAI NM E NT M AGA ZI N E • D E C E M BE R 2 023
YO U R G U I D E T O O U T D O O R I C E - S K AT I N G R I N K S
THE ANTHEM • WASHINGTON, D.C.
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MERRIWEATHER POST PAVILION • COLUMBIA, MD
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*Presented by Live Nation
*Presented by Live Nation
LINCOLN THEATRE • WASHINGTON, D.C.
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WHERE MUSIC BEGINS
Ticketmaster.com • theatlantis.com • impconcerts.com
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DISTRICT FRAY |
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A GAYLORD HOTELS ORIGINAL EXPERIENCE
Don’t miss ICE! at Gaylord National. Explore the holiday classic, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer™, in this amazing winter wonderland of larger-than-life ice sculptures, thrilling frozen slides, and awe-inspiring tunnels. Tickets and packages are on sale now. Book a room night or package and receive exclusive benefits for overnight guests.
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DISTRICT FRAY |
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Drink responsibly. Modelo Especial Beer. Imported by Crown Imports, Chicago, IL ®
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Join us at District E, located inside of Gallery Place, for a pregame Block Party before every Washington Wizards home game, starting 90 minutes before tip-off!
Block Party Lineup Includes
Music Special Performances Food & Drink Specials Including $6 Michelob Ultras Giveaways & More
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PARTY TODAY!
29 32 40
PETITE CERISE BRINGS JOIE DE VIVRE TO D.C.
25 MUST-TRY LOCAL RESTAURANTS
HOLY SMOKES! INSIDE IVY CITY SMOKEHOUSE
54 57
A LOVE LETTER TO TEA
TABLE OF CONTENTS
RADAR 13 Calendar
EAT 46 5 Fresh Global Concepts 49 Mercy Me’s New Identity
DRINK 53 New Cocktail Bar Medina
MUSIC 58 Mx. Mundy’s New Album
CULTURE 61 District Denizens
LIFE 69 7 Holiday Markets
PLAY 72 Seen Gallery 74 9 Outdoor Skating Spots 75 Wizards’ Fan Experiences
FUN 77 In Other Words
ON THE COVER Subjects The District Fray team, clockwise from left: Nicole Schaller, Monica Alford, Claire Smalley and M.K. Koszycki Photographer Scott Suchman Location Petite Cerise
EDITORIAL STAFF Robert Kinsler Publisher + CEO Monica Alford Editor-in-Chief + Director of Media M.K. Koszycki Managing Editor Nicole Schaller Deputy Editor Evan Hecht Editorial Assistant Claire Smalley Creative Director
CONTRIBUTORS Designer Nicole Bennett Editors Jamie McCrary + Abi Newhouse Writers Heather Bien, Colleen Kennedy, Kayla Lupoli, Katherine Mahoney, Haley McKey, Jamie McCrary, Myles Mellor, Abi Newhouse, Sarah Pollock, Courtney Sexton Photographers + Illustrators E$ + Scott Suchman
79 The Last Supper
UNITED FRAY
80 Crossword
Martin Espinoza President Brittany Rheault COO Quentin Shank Sales Manager Tom Roth Key Account Manager
QUEER POP PRINCESS CHAPPELL ROAN
Petite Cerise spread. Photo by Scott Suchman.
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L TO R. Nicole Schaller, Monica Alford, Claire Smalley + M.K. Koszycki. Photo by Scott Suchman.
THE FINAL FÊTE. The moment our final issue of the year goes to press is one of the few times I slow down enough to reflect on all the amazing opportunities my team and I have had and the hard work we’ve put into championing D.C. and bringing people together. As I approach my eight-year mark at the helm of the magazine, I’m feeling a bit more introspective than usual. My dream has always been to tell people’s stories through celebratory journalism, and I couldn’t be more grateful to close out 2023 with what feels like the most impactful year yet. Looking back, everything I’ve done with the magazine has been a direct result of building an incredibly talented team and extended family of D.C. creatives contributing to my vision and punching far beyond our collective weight. During my three years at On Tap Magazine, I had the opportunity to revamp and breathe new life into the publication to increase its relevance in the city’s media landscape and highlight the culture scene more prominently. A huge component of this was bringing in a young and hungry team, and a new stable of freelancers who boosted visibility 10 | DECEMBER 2023
and helped put On Tap on the map within our creative scene. I feel immense gratitude toward On Tap’s publisher Jennifer Currie, who has an entrepreneurial spirit and endless hustle. She taught me how to think beyond just the written word and extend our reach within the community through events curation and production, and other revenue-drivers that were critical to helping keep local journalism alive. At the time, I thought the most difficult balancing act of my journalistic career was at the beginning of 2016 when I started my dream job at On Tap — only to find out I was pregnant with my son Finn a month later. While navigating a demanding new role and impending motherhood came with its own set of challenges, it was just the first of three pivotal moments in my career — and the magazine’s — where we were put to the test. In early 2019, On Tap was purchased by DC Fray and we began a 12-month transition into our new home in Brentwood. I readily admit I’m not always one to embrace change with open arms, but the shift to Fray was the kickstart we needed to make bigger waves in the city. The support of a bigger entity with more touchpoints within the D.C. community afforded us new opportunities to dream big and expand our reach — including an ever-evolving and growing team who we continued to strengthen bonds with over time. In March 2020, we finally launched District Fray Magazine after months of creative brainstorms, strategic planning and a complete reimagining of our publication. I will never forget the night my team went to press for our first issue of District Fray. My editorial designer Julia Goldberg, deputy editor Trent Johnson and I pulled two 18+ hour days at Fray’s office, putting together a magazine that would normally require a significantly more robust staff. As we walked out of the office at 7 a.m. and gave each other one last weary but proud look, I felt my heart burst with pride. To this day, I have never been in the trenches quite like that with anyone else, and I will forever be grateful for their unwavering trust and loyalty because I couldn’t have crossed that finish line without them by my side. Two weeks after our first issue was published, and one week before a 1,000-person launch party that we were set to cohost with our dear friends at No Kings Collective, Covid made its harrowing debut as our third and most difficult hurdle. Yet somehow, the newly minted media arm of our company was the only one able to motor on like the Little Engine That Could through so much uncertainty. I am extremely appreciative that our publisher Robert Kinsler shared my belief in the power of print and remained committed to District Fray’s success — especially when so many of our peers were shuttering or hitting pause — and that I had the chance to work in lockstep with Fray’s COO Brittany Rheault on new ways to support the community during the pandemic. We even redesigned the publication to be all-glossy and perfect bound, which had been a dream of mine all along and well-deserved given the sophistication and quality of our design, photography and creative direction. The first year of the pandemic also allowed us to shift the narrative, expanding our content beyond what you can do for fun in D.C. and refocusing on the city’s heartbeat: the people who live here. We entered a new era that forever changed our
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR path and charted a new course for the publication. District Fray was never going to just be a magazine again. We became community builders, providing thoughtfully curated and unique experiences to locals craving interaction and connection. Our collaborations became more intentional, our stories more authentic, our curation more inclusive, our labor of love more steadfast. We’ve only gained momentum, pushing harder than ever to shed light on the city’s diversity, vibrancy and hunger for community through every issue, curated event and conversation. For the first time in nearly a decade, there is no doubt in my mind that D.C.’s creative community needs us just as much as we need them. This issue, our “final fête,” is a different kind of love letter to the city. It starts with my current team on the cover: a group of women who command a presence in a way I never could have dreamed of when I first walked into On Tap all those years ago. My creative director Claire Smalley has given me the invaluable gift of true creative partnership while elevating the magazine to be a work of art every single month. My deputy editor Nicole Schaller’s work ethic and integrity are unmatched, and even though our years together have been the most tumultuous for the magazine, they’ve also been the most rewarding — in large part because I always knew I had the fiercest advocate for what we’ve built by my side. M.K. Koszycki, my managing editor, is living proof that we can go through a media acquisition, pandemic, two-year hiatus and all of the emotional noise that comes with just one of those life events and still find our way back to each other. Our unbreakable bond and her creative spirit have been so restorative to me and helped rebuild confidence I needed to think big picture about what possibilities might lie ahead. Photographer Scott Suchman captured my team in a perfect moment for the December cover, just as I’ve always seen us: an indestructible force emanating resilience, quiet resolve and a knowing glance of exciting things to come. The fête continues with Suchman’s stunning shots of the most dynamic, colorful and insanely gifted group of artists, creators, curators, entrepreneurs and visionaries I am lucky
enough to call members of my chosen family. We celebrate these seven frequent collaborators as this month’s District Denizens, a nod to their massive influence in the city with a sneak peek of what they’re manifesting next. While our cover subjects and denizens are among my most valued creative partners, they only scratch the surface of the vast network of contributors who’ve made a mark on the magazine including editors Jamie McCrary and Abi Newhouse, who understand the voice of our content and inner workings of what it takes to go to press more than anyone else. Our cover location, the French-inspired Petite Cerise, is one of 35+ dining establishments highlighted in this issue. From mom-and-pop mainstays to Michelin-starred standouts, the December issue is a celebration of D.C.’s thriving dining scene featuring intimate interviews with chefs and restaurateurs and a behind-the-scenes look into kitchens, smokehouses and much more. I want to close out this last letter of 2023 by extending the biggest thank you my heart can hold to the countless bold and brilliant collaborators who helped build this spectacular publication; every iteration of my core team for their commitment and contributions to our shared vision; my mentors and creative partners who made me feel seen before I had a seat at the table in local media, and who continue to believe in and inspire me daily; and the D.C. community for reading our words and giving us so much to celebrate. This has been the most incredible ride I’ve ever been on, and my beautiful tribe of talented minds and I are ready for the next chapter. To quote my sonic anthem, the voice in my head and the mantra of my creative collective’s bright future, “Hey babe, take a walk on the wild side.” Thank you, D.C. We’ll see you next year. MONICA ALFORD EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
L TO R. Maps Glover, E$, Joy Kingsley-Ibeh, Monica Alford, Maggie O’Neill, Ashley Jaye Williams, Brandon Hill + Maria Bastasch. Photo by Scott Suchman.
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Calendar WORDS BY SARAH POLLOCK ‘Tis the season, D.C. winter has rolled into the District with style, celebration and tons of joy. Iconic holiday markets, festive celebrations, nifty workshops, beloved stories onstage, and restaurant specials that serve both cozy and tantalizing dishes are all just around the corner. Grab your loved ones or give your own spirit a holiday makeover with these exciting events. Whether it’s baking up a storm with a former White House pastry chef, rockin’ around any and all Christmas trees, or gliding back into nature on ice skates, close out 2023 in style.
holiday karaoke, live music and specialty food and drink at The Wharf. 6 p.m. Free. 45 Sutton Sq. SW, DC; wharfdc.com // @thewharfdc FONA’S WINTER FESTIVAL AT THE NATIONAL ARBORETUM
Friends of the National Arboretum (FONA) hosts a special winter festival downtown featuring local vendors with specialty holiday merchandise, as well as a Christmas tree sale. 10 a.m. Free. 3501 New York Ave. NE, DC; fona.org // @fonaarboretum 12.3
OUTDOOR
SWEDISH HOLIDAY MARKET AT HOUSE OF SWEDEN
12.2 DISTRICT HOLIDAY BOAT PARADE AT THE WHARF
Don’t miss one of the District’s most iconic winter celebrations. See over 60 decorated boats, take in fireworks,
Looking for a traditional Nordic holiday market? Head on over to the House of Sweden for authentic Scandinavian desserts, cuisine and a St. Lucia celebration. 10 am. $10. 2900 K St. NW, DC; washingtondc.swea.org // @swedeninusa
LET US SHOW YOU THE REAL D.C. From new restaurants to local shows to everything in between, we’ve got you covered. Check out our events calendar to connect with the greater D.C. community and keep a pulse on what’s happening around the city.
CHECK OUT OUR TOP PICKS AT DISTRICTFRAY.COM/EVENTSCALENDAR
Catch Gus Dapperton at 9:30 Club on December 4. Photo by cloudy thoughts.
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RADAR | CALENDAR WREATH MAKING CLASS AT MT. VERNON TRAIL
12.31
Friends of Mt. Vernon Trail is all about a sustainable approach to holiday decor. Learn to make a wreath out of kudzu, an invasive tree killing plant, and go home with a festive wreath. 2 p.m. Free. 1198 N Fairfax St. Alexandria, VA; mountvernontrail.org // @mountvernontrail
DC UNDER FIREWORKS YACHT PARTY AT INNER HARBOR SPIRIT
12.14
What better way to ring in the New Year than on a yacht? The Inner Harbor Spirit will be throwing a bash fit with three decks, two live DJs, open bar, dinner buffet, and a fireworks show, so that you can indulge in an escape to the open waters of the Potomac. 8 p.m. $259. 580 Water St. SW, DC; vipnightlife.com // @vipnightlife_
HOLIDAY GIFT BAZAAR AT UNION MARKET
Check out Union Market’s special holiday gift bazaar showcasing wine, spirits, beer and specialty homegoods. 6 p.m. Free. 1309 5th St. NE, DC; unionmarketdc.com // @unionmarketdc UGLY SWEATER PARTY AND TOY DRIVE BY DMV DOES AT THE MORROW
This holiday season, give back at the DMV DOES toy drive. The drive will also double as an ugly sweater party. Enjoy a rooftop, live music and festive prizes. 6 p.m. $20. 222 M St. Suite 1201, NE, DC; linktr.ee/DMVDoes // @dmvdoes
FOOD + DRINK 12.1 PAWS AND PINTS HOLIDAY PARTY AT ATLAS BREW WORKS
Bring your furry friend and some spirit to enjoy craft tap beers, food trucks and a special Santa photoshoot pop-up by Metro Mutts. 5:30 p.m. Free. 2052 West Virginia Ave. #102 NE, DC; kingsmanbark.mailchimpsites.com // @kingsmanbarkdc 12.3 SPARKLING WINE TASTING AT THE ROOST
12.18 DAYTIME ICE SKATING AT CAMERON RUN
Ice skate at Cameron Run’s ice and lights. Nova Parks holds a beautiful rink as well as food andbeverage stands and a winter village. 12 p.m. $12.50. 4001 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA; novaparks.com // @novaparks
Enjoy an exclusive tasting of 30 sparkling wines. Take in the ambiance and pick out the perfect bubbly. 12 p.m. $45. 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, DC; theroostsedc.com // @theroostdc
Join us for GenABE Night on December 7! Use code UNDER4024 for $25 Tickets
November 17 - December 31, 2023
Buy Tickets Now!
By Charles Dickens; Adapted by Michael Wilson; Directed by Michael Baron Season Sponsors: Chevron and Lockheed Martin Corporation Lead Sponsor: Charter Communications Sponsors: The Home Depot, National Retail Federation and Siemens Corporation
(888) 616-0270
14 | DECEMBER 2023
www.fords.org #FordsCarol
Photo courtesy of The Wharf.
RADAR
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RADAR 12.9 GEORGETOWN COOKIE TOUR AT GEORGETOWN LUTHERAN CHURCH
D.C.’s sweetest trail features Georgetown-based bakeries and small businesses. Stroll through delicious flavors and delightful sights. 12 p.m. $35. 1556 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; georgetownmainstreet.com // @georgetownmainst GINGERBREAD HOUSE DECORATING AT HOTEL ZENA
Come ready to decorate and dazzle with the provided fixings, and take your creation home. 1 p.m. $55. 1155 14th St. NW, DC; viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/zena // @hotelzena ASLIN SNOW DAZE WINTER MARKET AT ASLIN BEER COMPANY
A 14th Street favorite, join Aslin Beer Company for their annual holiday market featuring local vendors and fresh draft releases. 12 p.m. Free. 1740 14th St. NW, DC; aslinbeer.com // @aslinbeerco SANTA BAR CRAWL IN DUPONT CIRCLE
Get your costumes and festive apparel out, because it’s time for Santa Crawl. This bar crawl will feature live music, giveaways, and specialty drink discounts at Dupont Circle’s major bars. 2 p.m. $15. Various locations; fb.com/mereventsdc
SIP & WICK: WINE TASTING AND CANDLE MAKING AT WOODLAWN PRESS WINERY
Raise a glass and a flame at this unique event. Sample a selection of wines as you make three custom hand-poured candles. 2 p.m. $45. 8733-B Cooper Rd. Alexandria, VA; wpwinery.com // @wpwinery 12.12 DRINKS AND DREIDELS AT YOUNG JEWISH PROFESSIONALS OF ALEXANDRIA-ARLINGTON
Join in on this Chanukah party for young Jewish professionals. Connect with games, good food and joyous celebration. 6:30 p.m. $18. 1307 N Highland St. Arlington, VA; fb.com/YJPArlingtonAlexandria 12.16 CLEVELAND PARK SANTA BAR CRAWL
This is a laid-back jolly event that includes specials at Atomic Billiards, Cleveland Park Bar & Grill, Fat Pete’s BBQ, and Nanny O’Briens. 5 p.m. $15. 3427 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; clevelandparkmainstreet.org
Happening this month: SATU R DAY, D E C E M B E R 1 6
Hot Chocolate Bar + Coat Drive
16 | DECEMBER 2023
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12.19 HOLIDAY CONFECTIONS WITH CHEF BILL YOSSES AT HAMILTON HOTEL
Learn to make macaroons with the former White House Executive Pastry Chef. You’ll learn how to make this delicious French staple, and go home with a signed copy of Yosse’s cookbook, a recipe card and other take-home goodies. 5 p.m. $125. 1001 14th St. NW, DC; hamiltonhoteldc.com // @hamiltonhoteldc 12.20 BLIND WINE(D) AT LULUS WINEGARDEN
Heighten your senses with a blind wine tasting. Lulu’s will feature some of its favorite tannic wines, along with bubbly, and curated snacks, led by one of D.C.’s top sommeliers. 6 p.m. $60. 1940 11th St. NW, DC; luluswinegarden.com // @luluswinedc CHRISTMAS BEER DINNER AT GRANVILLE MOORE’S
This warm and cozy menu is perfect to get in the holiday spirit. Granville Moore’s curated dinner includes exclusive seasonal beers with a five-course meal. 7 p.m. $75. 1238 H St. NE, DC; granvillemoores.com // @granvillemoores 12.21
cooking class. The delicious pastry pockets filled with tasty and unique ingredients are the perfect way to warm up this winter, and this class is a fun excuse to gather with friends. 6:30 p.m. $59. 1309 5th St. NE, DC; unionmarketdc.com/la-cosecha // @lacosechadc
PERFORMING ARTS 12.2 ”AS YOU LIKE IT” AT SHAKESPEARE THEATRE CENTER
This Shakespeare favorite is back with a reimagined, flower power take. Directed and adapted by Daryl Cloran, the production features beloved Beatles songs as Rosalind seeks a ’60s hippie escape. 8 p.m. $35+. 610 F St. NW, DC; shakespearetheatre.org // @shakespeareindc 12.8 STEP AFRIKA!’S “MAGICAL MUSICAL HOLIDAY STEP SHOW” AT ARENA STAGE
This step show is the first holiday feature of its kind, highlighting the African American tradition. Marvelous dancing coupled with fun surprises for all. 8 p.m. $76. 1101 6th St. SW, DC; arenastage.org // @arenastage
EMPANADA COOKING CLASS AT LA COSECHA
La Cosecha at Union Market is hosting a fun, hands-on Step Afrika!’s “Magical Musical Holiday Step Show.” Photo by Jati Lindsay.
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RADAR 12.12
“FAT HAM” AT STUDIO THEATRE
“GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY” AT THE KENNEDY CENTER
Take “Hamlet,” but make it Black, queer, southern and disco. This Tony Award-nominated, Pulitzer Prize-winning play is showing through mid-December at D.C.’s Studio Theatre. Various times. $45+. 1501 14th St. NW, DC; studiotheatre.org // @studiotheatre
The “profoundly beautiful” Tony Award-winning musical is in D.C. this December. Set in 1934 Minnesota, wayward travelers intersect and rejoice in hope with songs by Bob Dylan. 8 p.m. $49+. 2700 F St. NW, D.C; kennedy-center.org // @kennedycenter
“MODERN NUTCRACKER BALLET” AT THE SOURCE THEATRE
12.21 “MURDER ON 34TH ST.” AT DC IMPROV
Head over to DC Improv for an interactive murder mystery comedy show! Part improv, part stand up, and part audience participation, this zany take on the holiday classic “Miracle on 34th Street” is a fun and different way to get in the holiday spirit. 7:30 p.m. $25. 1140 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; dcimprov.com // @dcimprov
This modern adaptation of “The Nutcracker” centralizes women’s roles, diverse characters, and new movement to a classic winter tale. 3 p.m. $35. 1835 14th St. NW, DC; aru-dell-arte.com // @arudellarte
MUSIC 12.4 GUS DAPPERTON AT 9:30 CLUB
12.23 “FROZEN” AT THE KENNEDY CENTER
The Broadway national tour of “Frozen” makes its D.C. stop just in time for the holiday season. Catch the heartwarming music live, with stunning costumes and impressive stage design. 7:30 p.m. $115. 2700 F St. NW, DC; kennedy-center.org // @kennedycenter
Known for his synth-poppy surrealist music, Gus Dapperton is sure to deliver an upbeat and unique show at 9:30 Club. 7 p.m. $25. 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club 12.6 NSO: UGLY SWEATER CONCERT AT THE ANTHEM
It’s time to don your festive (or atrocious) apparel to hear the National Symphony Orchestra play your favorite holiday
IT’S OFFICIAL, FRAYLIFE MEMBERSHIP IS THE BEST DEAL IN TOWN After quietly testing in beta, we are stoked to announce the official release of DC Fray's exclusive events and experience membership program. Join hundreds of our early adopters in snagging exclusive member perks and value all aimed at helping you make fun a bigger part of your week. Fraylife membership is the biggest thing to hit DC's social scene since our skeeball leagues!
Check out the full and growing listing of membership perks on our site and jump into our mission to make fun possible! BE PART OF THE COMMUNITY, BECOME A MEMBER TODAY
DISTRICTFRAY.COM/MEMBERSHIP
18 | DECEMBER 2023
RADAR classics live. You can even enter a sweater contest at the event. 7:30 p.m. $25. 901 Wharf St. SW, DC; theanthemdc.com // @theanthemdc 12.9 A VERY MERRY SWIFTMAS AT WUNDERGARTEN
Head over to Wundergarten for a holiday celebration starring our nation’s popstar, Taylor Swift. Get ready to sing and dance to your favorite eras of Taylor. 8 p.m. Free. 1101 1st St. NE, DC; wundergartendc.com // @wundergartendc
12.19 MADONNA CELEBRATION TOUR AT CAPITAL ONE ARENA
Celebrate four decades of the Queen of Pop. Madonna is traveling through time, and playing iconic hits mixed in with new covers. The Celebration Tour is coming just in time for the holiday season. 8:30 p.m. $90. 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena 12.31 GIMME GIMME DISCO: ABBA DANCE PARTY AT 9:30 CLUB
’80s more your vibe? Fear not! Black Cat is hosting a holiday extravaganza with two live DJs, and a five-hour setlist filled with holiday deep cuts, hits and decade staples. 9 p.m. $20. 1811 14th St. NW, DC; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
Grab your flare pants and platforms for this ABBA-themed disco party. A fun way to ring in the new year, be THE dancing queen to a live DJ playing your ’70s favorites, and receive a complimentary champagne toast at midnight. 9 p.m. $55. 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club
12.15
ARTS
80S MAYHEM DANCE PARTY AT BLACK CAT
DEEP DIVE LIVE AT THE ATLANTIS
This new, recurring event series at The Atlantis features emerging local and regional talent. This showcase has indie rock and alternative sounds with a lineup including Sadurn, Glom and BRASSIE. 6:30 p.m. $10. 2047 9th St. NW, DC; theatlantis.com // @theatlantis_dc
12.1 ARTWALK DUPONT IN DUPONT CIRCLE
Starting this winter, Dupont galleries, museums and embassies are allowing entry between 6-8 p.m. on the first Friday of every month. Make plans to check out special programming to kick off your weekend. 6 p.m. Free. Various locations; dupontcirclebid.org // @dupontcircledc
SINGLES
SPEED DATING Tuesday, December 12 at 6 p.m. Hank’s Oyster Bar // 1624 Q Street NW Stop the cycle of endless online chatting and meet someone new at our Singles Speed Dating event. Our restaurant and bar offers authentic German-American food and delicious beer. With long communal tables and 20 TVs throughout, Bronson provides our guests with a traditional German feel. This is the perfect setting to spend time with family and friends.
bronsonbierhall.com | @bronsonbierhall
<< SIGN UP TODAY!
4100 Fairfax Dr. Arlington, VA | 703-528-1110
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20 | DECEMBER 2023
RADAR 12.2
UNIQUE MARKETS DC AT UNION MARKET
SIP + SCULPT WITH POLYMER CLAY AT SHOP MADE IN DC
Support emerging designers and small business owners at the holiday unique market. With a DIY gift wrapping station, special projects, complimentary beverages from Wildwonder, lounges and photo pop-ups, shop local this gifting season. 10 a.m. $12. 1309 5th St. NE, DC; uniquemarkets.com // @uniquemarkets
Soultry Brand is leading a workshop in polymer clay. Learn how to make a pair of statement earrings through conditioning clay, creating color palettes, and shaping by hand. If you love crafting and jewelry, this is the class for you complete with wine time. 3 p.m. $60. 1304 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; shopmadeindc.com // @shopmadeindc
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12.7
MIXED MEDIA STUDIO AT PLAZA ARTISTS
SIP + MAKE: ORNAMENTS AT SHOP MADE IN DC
Artist Alex Donahue is leading a workshop on making a mixed media masterpiece. Unconventional materials along with alcohol inks, and yupo/legion paper is the perfect creation for sprucing up your home, giving as a gift, and letting loose and creating in the studio. 2 p.m. $10. 1120 19th St. NW, DC; plazaart.com // @plaza_art
Join Good Letters Design for an evening of ornament making. Perfect to add to your holiday decor, create two hand-painted ornaments and learn how to design customized lettering while sipping a special beverage! 6 p.m. $40. 1304 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; shopmadeindc.com // @shopmadeindc
THIRD THURSDAYS AT PHILLIPS COLLECTION
12.16 MOSS AND MIMOSAS AT PLNTR
Complimentary mimosas coupled with a living art. Build a moss wall using preserved nature and dried flowers on a wooden frame with PLNTR. 11:30 a.m. $69. 1825 18th St. NW, DC; plntr.co // @plntrdc
The Phillips Collection is kicking off their special free after-hours series. Explore galleries, attend spotlight panel discussions, right in the heart of Dupont Circle every third Thursday of the month. 5 p.m. Free. 1600 21st St. NW, DC; phillipscollection.org // @phillipscollection
Beer Garden & Haus has been awarded the title of Best Neighborhood Bar and Best Beer Selection, showcasing their commitment to quality. They take pride in serving locally sourced, grass-fed meats from their in-house butcher shop. Being the original beer garden, they’ve laid the foundation with craft beer, live local music, and a lively neighborhood dining atmosphere, with a special focus on BBQ.
westovermarketbeergarden.com | @westovermarket 5863 Washington Blvd, Arlington, VA | 703-536-5040
Sio Ceramics ornaments. Photo courtesy of Shop Made in DC.
Enjoy Continental’s half-priced game rates until 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Our beer garden is dog and family-friendly (under 21 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian; valid ID required to purchase alcohol).
continentalpoollounge.com | @ cplrosslyn 1901 N Moore St. Arlington, VA | 703-317-7443 (beer garden) | 703-465-7675 (pool lounge)
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RADAR SPORTS + WELLNESS 12.6 BAILA SALSA SOCIAL AT LA COSECHA
Get shaking at the salsa social. A lesson for beginner salsa dancers followed by an open dance social with a live DJ is sure to heat things up this winter. Now twice a month, you can learn salsa at your own pace. 7 p.m. $7+. 1309 5th St. NE, DC; unionmarketdc.com/la-cosecha // @lacosechadc
Bringing the power of play to children experiencing housing insecurity.
12.9 POP-UP STRENGTH AND PERFORMANCE WORKOUT AT UNION MARKET
Playtime Project Donate
Volunteer
Subscribe PlaytimeProject.org
Want to attend a workout within a supportive and empowering community? Join Union Market for this weekly pop-up performance based training. Drop in during multiple days and times. 8:30 a.m. Free. 1309 5th St. NE, DC; workdcfitness.com // @wrk.dc YOGA IN THE GALLERIES AT MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART ARLINGTON
Move and bend in the Tiffany Gallery at Arlington’s Contemporary Museum of Art. This yoga practice concludes with a journaling session to ignite your creativity and fuel self-expression. 10 a.m. $10. 3550 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA; mocaarlington.org // @mocaarlington WASHINGTON CAPS VS RANGERS AT CAPITAL ONE ARENA
Hockey season is in full swing this December. Catch the
Sunday, December 10 // 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. There's no place like home on the holidays, which is why Carlyle Crossing is bringing the celebration to you! Join us for this festive holiday market, complete with local vendors, an arts and crafts station, live DJ, an ugly sweater contest, a visit from Santa and a free hot chocolate with RSVP.
Looking for a fun, rowdy bar with great food? Brighton has what you need. Watch today’s game on one of the many TVs from a table or booth. Choose from indoor, outdoor, first floor or upstairs seating. Check out the crow’s nest bar at the back of the upper bar for a marina hideaway feel. Or, sit on the Bourbon Street-style balcony overlooking Wharf Street
ccxholidays.eventbrite.com brighton-dc.com | @brightonwharf 949 Wharf St. SW, DC | 202-735-5398
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RADAR Washington Capitals play against the New York Rangers at Capital One Arena. 7 p.m. $60+. 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena 12.10 YOGA + CRYSTAL SOUND BATH AT THE NATIONAL BUILDING MUSEUM
Restore your mind with relaxing yoga, and a healing sound bath in the National Building Museum. Enjoy the echoes of crystal alchemy bowls in the museum’s great hall. This yoga class is designed for all levels. 9 a.m. $30. 401 F St. NW, DC; bethawolfe.com // @bethawolfe 12.27 WASHINGTON WIZARDS VS. TORONTO RAPTORS AT CAPITAL ONE ARENA
Need to get out for a post-Christmas activity? Catch the Washington Wizards play the Toronto Raptors at Capital One Arena. 7 p.m. $29+. 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena As You Are exists to hold and cultivate a safe and celebratory space for
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the LGBTQIA+ community. Café by day, bar and dance lounge by night,
WASHINGTON WIZARDS VS. BROOKLYN NETS AT CAPITAL ONE ARENA
As You Are welcomes LGBTQIA+ patrons, from all walks of life, and allies in a versatile haven for queer expression and connection.
The Wizards are playing the Brooklyn Nets at Capital One Arena. Don’t miss one of the last few chances to catch a Wizards game in 2023. 7 p.m. $34+. 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena
asyouaredc.com | @asyouaredc 500 8th St. SE, DC | 202-506-1440
ACOUSTIC HOUR AT THE SQUARE Come for the music, stay for the food. Enjoy drinks and bites from one (or several) of the 15+ newly opened spots at The Square.
EVERY TUESDAY IN DECEMBER // 4:30-6:30PM
bit.ly/3LuOwCn
DOWNTOWN DC DISTRICT FRAY | 23
Hamilton’s Bar and Grill has great drink specials, fantastic comfort food and top notch service. Come check out our ALL-DAY Friday happy hour with $2 PBRs and High Lifes and you’ll see why we’ve been a Capitol Hill institution since 2006.
hamiltonsdc.com | @hamiltonsdc 232 2nd St. NW, DC | 202-347-6555
Grand Central serves delicious classic American favorites year-round for
Located in the heart of Arlington, VA, McNamara’s Pub & Restaurant
dinner Monday through Sunday. We also offer sports betting. Please visit
delights patrons with its authentic Irish fare, weekly Irish music events,
our website for more details.
and daily specials on both food and drinks.
grandcentraldc.com | @grandcentraldc
grandcentraldc.com | @grandcentraldc
2447 18th St. NW, DC | 202-986-1742
2447 18th St. NW, DC | 202-986-1742
We celebrate the magical essence of corn by meticulously sourcing
Kelly’s Irish Times is a quaint, sometimes boisterous Irish pub, with great
12 distinct varieties, each ground fresh daily to craft the foundation of our
food, perfect cold pints, a wicked cast of characters behind the bar and a
delectable tortillas. Every bite reflects the heritage and essence of Mexican
world-class jukebox.
culture, allowing you to savor the authentic flavors of our cuisine.
kellysirishtimesdc.com | @KellysIrishTimesDC
hojataqueria.com | @hojataqueria
14 F St. NW, DC | 202-543-5433
1900 Connecticut Ave NW, DC | 202-448-1575
Located on the Rooftop at Union Market, Hi-Lawn is one of D.C.’s largest, most expansive rooftops for outdoor dining, drinking and socializing. We’ve got fun events every night of the week, from trivia and bingo nights, to live music and DJs, plus lawn games, picnics, grilled eats, creative cocktails, all with city views.
hilawndc.com | @hilawndc
1309 5th St. NE, DC | 202-481-0958
Spider Kelly’s is your local neighborhood bar. In 2016, Spider Kelly’s converted parking spaces behind the bar into a huge beer garden. The space has plenty of room to host priviate events.
spiderkellys.com | @spiderkellys 3181 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA | 703-312-8888
Logo
The Brig is a German beer garden nestled in the heart of D.C. In this open-air beer garden, you can enjoy your favorite German fare and a wide selection of beers and cocktails.
Tommy Joe’s is a Bethesda tradition; from cold beer and drinks to our famous Poho wings to live music, we have what you’re looking for. With 18 TVs on our main level and 11 on our spacious rooftop bar, you won’t miss a minute of the action. Make a reservation or book your private party here today.
thebrigdc.com | @thebrigwdc
tommy-joes.com | @bethesdatommyjoes
1007 8th St. SE, DC | 202-675-1000
7940 Norfolk Ave. Bethesda, MD | 301-312-8282
A Great Today Begins at The Morrow Located just steps from the bustling NoMa district, The Morrow Hotel was designed by a collection of award-winning architectural design firms. Our chic, brasserie-style restaurant, Le Clou, offers an exceptional dining experience from Michelin-starred chef Nicholas Stefanelli while our celebrated bar, Upstairs at The Morrow, pulses with energy and unparalleled city views. Whether you’re a D.C. local or just planning a visit, there’s always something happening at The Morrow Hotel.
Discover The Morrow Hotel at themorrowhotel.com 222 M St. NE, Washington, DC 20002
EAT
Petite Cerise Chef Jeremiah Langhorne.
French-Inspired Petite Cerise Brings Joie de Vivre to D.C. WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY | PHOTOS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN
Illustration courtesy of Petite Cerise.
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“My wife and I go to France a couple times a year,” the James Beard Award-winning Chef Jeremiah Langhorne says about his frequent Gallic retreats. “We really love it there. They have an affinity for food, for quality and for experience that I just don’t see as often in the States.” It’s the very sort of French dining revolution he hopes to bring to the District with his latest bistro concept Petite Cerise (“little cherry”), which embraces all that is sweet and simple about casual fine dining. Langhorne is already well known for his Michelin-starred restaurant The Dabney in Blagden Alley, serving up elevated Mid-Atlantic provender with Southern flair, and more than a dash of classic French techniques. The concept for that restaurant harkens back to his own background growing up in D.C., the Shenandoah Valley and Charlottesville, Virginia, and his dismay that there was not a Chesapeake Bayfocused restaurant in D.C. Shortly after The Dabney’s opening, Langhorne was recognized with much éclat as one of the most promising chefs nationwide. The restaurant began racking up accolades, often topping local and national lists. Almost a decade in, he continues to perfect one of the District’s top dining destinations. Last year, the restaurant went through a refresh — a new, elegant look, a more intimate setting in the open-concept kitchen, and an eight-course chef’s menu showcasing the best of local delicacies. Chef Langhorne shares that so many beloved Chesapeake recipes, such as oyster stews and chowders, are indebted to the principles of French culinary arts. Trained in French classic cooking techniques, the self-proclaimed “big Francophile” states he has always had a “deep respect and love for the kind of technique involved in French cooking.” The decision to open Petite Cerise in March 2023 is a culmination of his years of training, his love of French cuisine, and — more than anything — his belief in sharing enjoyable foods and experiences. The all-day bistro on 7th Street Northwest nods to French decor — the mosaic-tiled flooring, the champagne-colored walls of the sun-filled upstairs dining room, the centrally-located bar and a certain inviting je ne sais quoi — and serves up classic French fare including escargots en croûte, beef bourguignon and onion soup gratinée.
The little cherry + the little snail Tweely named “little cherry” in French, the restaurant’s mascot is a charming snail. This mascot serves as a visual reminder of Langhorne’s larger philosophy: slow down. Good meals with quality ingredients take time to prepare and perfect. Meals 30 | DECEMBER 2023
are meant to be savored and enjoyed with company. This joie de vivre credo seems simple enough, but it’s a radical concept in the District. According to a recent Washingtonian article, a study by ezCater found that more workers in the District consume a sad desk salad in front of their computers or skip their lunches altogether than in any other major city in the United States. “It kind of horrifies me the way we treat food in this city,” Langhorne says about D.C.’s eating habits. Au contraire, in France, he counters, it’s a whole different dining experience. Noting the health benefits — both mental and physical — of conscientious eating, the affable Langhorne launches into a sort of zen soliloquy about the art of modern French cuisine-style reverie. “Their passion for quality is a really big inspiration for me, and I think that the French cuisine and French people embody what I want others to experience, too,” he says of his decision to offer a sitdown breakfast, rather than massproduced croissants to be quickly consumed on the Metro’s escalator five minutes before work. “People are never too busy to sit for 10 or 20 minutes, enjoy a nice coffee, a poached egg or a well-made pastry. Take those moments to enjoy the morning. But it’s so rare we do this.”
Vive la révolution! If Langhorne requests his diners to take time to enjoy their meals, he sets himself to the same standard to perfect his meals. A crawfish dish that takes more than three days to prepare with constant proofing to check on texture and consistency; a French onion soup that is tested, revised and perfected over time; even the frittes are artfully refashioned into the consummate finger food, with just enough salt, fat and crispiness. It’s all about the joy of the experience. Langhorne, after all, is a chef who finds more of an affinity with the Pixar-animated “Ratatouille,” about a culinary rat who wishes to join Paris’s foodie scene than with the FX favorite “The Bear,” a behind-the-burning-stoves high tension drama set in a Chicago kitchen. “If I taste something I think is truly delicious or amazing — whether a perfectly ripe peach in the summertime or a dish I spent months working on — if it makes me smile, I want to share that with others,” he says of his general ethos, one of simple pleasures and a generosity of spirit. “Sharing delicious food with other people is just a wonderful thing. That’s at the heart and the core of why we open restaurants and why chefs do what we do.” Petite Cerise: 1027 7th St. NW, DC; petitecerisedc.com // @petitecerisedc
Mom-and-Pop to Michelin 25 Local Restaurants to Know
WORDS BY HEATHER BIEN + KATHERINE MAHONEY We’ve all read through the listings of top new restaurants in the DMV, waiting at our computers hoping to grab a reservation as soon as it opens up. And, yes, we’ve all probably recommended Le Diplomate at one point or another (and we’d still recommend it), but we think it’s time to shine a light on our triedand-true favorites. There are mom-and-pop restaurants that operate without a massive social media presence, Michelin-starred favorites that continue to impress year after year and neighborhood spots that hit the spot anytime you’re looking for a reliable weekend dinner out. Consider this your D.C. restaurant bucket list and your sign that it’s time to start working your way through.
EAT Any Day Now Opened: 2023 Neighborhood: Navy Yard Can’t-Miss Dish: Plantain tots New Jersey diner food meets Puerto Rican home cooking in chef and restaurateur Tim Ma’s new restaurant with Matt Sperber, chef de cuisine and partner. Any Day Now’s menu blends Sperber’s New Jersey upbringing and fascination with diner food with the flavors and memories of Ma’s mother’s native Puerto Rico. 2 I St. SE, DC; anydaynowdc.com // @anydaynowdc
Beuchert’s Saloon Opened: 2013 Neighborhood: Capitol Hill Can’t-Miss Dish: Roasted bone marrow “I use touches and techniques from all over the world, and use my travels to blend ideas and flavors unique to Beuchert’s,” chef Andrew Markert says. His seasonal and locally-sourced ingredients elevate the flavors of every dish and the cozy ambiance has made it a staple in the Capitol Hill neighborhood for more than a decade. 623 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, DC; beuchertssaloon.com // @beuchertssaloon
Caruso’s Grocery Opened: 2021 in D.C. + 2022 in MD Neighborhood: Hill East + North Bethesda, MD Can’t-Miss Dish: Bucatini with spicy Neapolitan ragu Caruso’s Grocery doesn’t mess with perfection. They focus their restaurant on high-quality ingredients to enhance beloved Italian dishes. “Caruso’s Grocery is our homage to the neighborhood Italian/American red sauce joint serving our version of time-honored classics,” chef and partner Matthew Adler says. 919 4th St. SE, DC; carusosgrocery.com // @carusosgrocery
Chloe Opened: 2018 Neighborhood: Navy Yard Can’t-Miss Dish: Spiced veal hummus Chef Haidar Karoum’s goal at Chloe is to showcase the range and diversity of American cuisine. “We take heavy cues from the seasons and balance a familiar rusticity with a smart global approach,” he says. “In short, Chloe reflects a cooking style grounded in sound technique but with no boundaries, no preconceived notions — it just has to be delicious.” And from their whipped chicken liver mousse to their pan-roasted shiitake and cremini mushrooms, delicious is exactly what it is. 1331 4th St. SE, DC; restaurantchloe.com // @restaurantchloe
Compass Rose Opened: 2014 Neighborhood: 14th Street Can’t-Miss Dish: Khachapuri Before Rose Previte opened Maydan, there was Compass Rose, which is still an all-time favorite of those in the Imperfecto dessert. Photo by Jennifer Chase.
District who know they can go here without the weeks-out reservation. Walking into the restaurant feels as if you’ve been transported to a market across the globe, while the menu takes you on a tour of international street food, with dishes like steak kebabs from Morocco, a spice bag from Ireland and aguachile from Mexico. 1346 T St. NW, DC; compassrosedc.com // @compassrose_dc
Daru Opened: 2021 Neighborhood: H Street Can’t-Miss Dish: Spicy Nawabi duck kebab Located nearly at the end of the H Street restaurant district, there’s an Indian cocktail bar and restaurant that caught the attention of Michelin inspectors, earning it a Bib Gourmand nod in its first year. Opened by Rasika alums, Daru brings an inventive energy to classic Indian dishes. 1451 Maryland Ave. NE, DC; darudc.com // @daru.dc
El Tamarindo Opened: 1982 Neighborhood: Adams Morgan Can’t-Miss Dish: Pupusas Arguably the first restaurant to bring Salvadoran and Mexican food together in the D.C. area, El Tamarindo is an Adams Morgan staple that not only serves incredible food, but it also has a late-night scene that’s known throughout the city. You can grab an authentic meal of homemade pupusas at this family-owned spot or get your 2 a.m. fix after a night out. 1785 Florida Ave. NW, DC; eltamarindodc.com // @eltamarindodc
Estuary Opened: 2019 Neighborhood: Downtown Can’t-Miss Dish: Smoked fish dip Chef Ria Montes infuses her Filipino roots into every dish and embraces the rich and diverse flavors of the Philippines, while blending them with modern American dishes. Chef Montes’ dedication to her menu and her roots leaves a lasting impression that will keep you mesmerized all night long — she was even crowned the 2023 Capital Food Fight Champion. 950 New York Ave. NW, DC; estuarydc.com // @estuaryconraaddc
Ethiopic Opened: 2010 Neighborhood: H Street Can’t-Miss Dish: Beef and chicken wot sampler D.C. has one of the largest Ethiopian populations outside of Ethiopia, and that means we also have an astounding array of Ethiopian options from fast casual spots to longtime favorites like H Street’s Ethiopic. With a warm ambiance and mouthwatering dishes for both vegetarians and carnivores, Ethiopic has been a Northeast neighborhood favorite for over a decade. 401 H St. NE, DC; ethiopicrestaurant.com // @ethiopicdc
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EAT Fava Pot Opened: 2017 in VA + 2021 in D.C. Neighborhood: West Falls Church, VA + Dupont Circle Can’t-Miss Dish: Egyptian pita, called “3esh baldy” The lunch rush still exists, and Fava Pot is one of the best spots to grab a quick, made-from-scratch meal. Their menu caters to vegan, gluten-free and meat lovers, with warm, delicious falafel, pita, stuffed grape leaves, and feteer meshaltet, an Egyptian pastry made with ghee baked in a stone oven. 7393 D Lee Hwy. Falls Church, VA + 1817 M St. NW, DC; favapot.com // @favapot
Florida Avenue Grill Opened: 1944 Neighborhood: U Street Corridor Can’t-Miss Dish: Southern pan-fried chicken or all-day breakfast Florida Avenue Grill bills itself as the oldest soul food restaurant in the world, and we’re willing to believe it. Its story starts in 1944 with Lacey C. Wilson Sr. and his wife, Bertha, building the restaurant on a dream. Seventy years later, it’s still serving D.C. residents from all walks of life and has one of the most iconic reputations in the city. 1100 Florida Ave. NW, DC; floridaavenuegrill.com // @floridaavegrill
Imperfecto Opened: 2021 Neighborhood: Foggy Bottom Can’t-Miss Dish: Moussaka cigar Michelin-starred Imperfecto brings Venezuelan flavors to a sleek restaurant in Foggy Bottom, an area not often known for being a culinary destination. Whether you do the tasting menu or order a la carte dishes like the tiger prawns a la diablo or the foie gras served with a crispy plantain brioche, the experience is indulgent in the best way. 1124 23rd St. NW, DC; imperfectodc.com // @imperfectodc
Little Pearl Opened: 2017 Neighborhood: Capitol Hill Can’t-Miss Dish: Angel eggs An approachable tasting menu is what you’ll find at Little Pearl, the whimsical, lighthearted, and, dare we say, more affordable little sister of Pineapple and Pearls. This multi-course seasonal menu walks through inventive flavor pairings and creative presentations, and it has a Michelin star to go along with it. 921 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, DC; littlepearldc.com // @littlepearldc
Makan Opened: 2020 Neighborhood: Columbia Heights Can’t-Miss Dish: Wantan mee
modern Malaysian, is one of those March 2020 alumni, and chef and owner James Wozniuk is bringing innovative dishes to his Columbia Heights restaurant. One of his favorite dishes is the wantan mee: “My love affair with wantan mee started in Penang, the food lover’s paradise of Malaysia,” he says. “Going to a bustling hawker center, with all the smells and sounds, you get sucked into a different world. Getting a bowl of steaming wantan mee is one of the highlights of every trip back to Malaysia.” 3400 11th St. NW, DC; makanrestaurantdc.com // @makan_dc
My Kabul Restaurant and Cafe Opened: May 2022 Neighborhood: Laurel, MD Can’t-Miss Dish: Mantu dumplings “My Kabul is a social entrepreneurship [entity] that brings communities and refugees together to heal and receive assurance that there are people out there that are willing to listen to them, care about them, guide them and assist them to reach their potential and be part of the American dream,” co-founder Khalis Noori says. The menu spotlights Afghan dishes, like bolani, which are fried pastries filled with potato, chickpeas, kahari and shami kabob. The restaurant also provides up to a 50% discount to refugees of any nationality. 13919 Baltimore Ave. #4, Laurel, MD; mykabul.us // @mykabul.us
Oohhs and Aahhs Opened: 2003 Neighborhood: U Street + Brightwood Can’t-Miss Dish: Fried catfish Come for a soul food restaurant that’s received accolades like the “Cheap Eats Award” and the “Best Macaroni and Cheese,” both awarded by Washingtonian Magazine, and stay for the mission at U Street’s Oohhs and Aahhs. This Blackowned restaurant not only strives to preserve Black culture through soul food, it also actively supports and stands with those working to fight injustice and create a more inclusive community. 1005 U St. + 5933 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; oohhsnaahhs.com // @oohhs_and_aahhs
Panda Gourmet Opened: 2012 Neighborhood: Arboretum Can’t-Miss Dish: Dan dan noodles The most authentic Chinese food in D.C. is hiding in an unassuming spot, right next to a Days Inn off New York Avenue Northeast. Serving classic Szechuan dishes, this is one of those foodie bucket list spots that brings heat, traditional flavors and an insider vibe to the city. 2700 New York Ave. NE, DC; pandagourmetonline.com
When a restaurant that opened in March 2020 is still around, you know it’s worth its weight in gold. Makan, which serves
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Any Day Now spread. Photo by Birch Thomas.
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Shilling Canning Company’s wood oven roasted bluefin tuna, Fireside Farm bok choy, sunchokes, honeynut squash, heirloom pumpkin broth, preserved lemon vinaigrette + arugula from the restaurant’s garden. Photo by Jennifer Chase.
EAT Primrose
Shababi
Opened: 2017 Neighborhood: Brookland Can’t-Miss Dish: Duck frites
Opened: 2021 Neighborhood: Pop-up Can’t-Miss Dish: Shababi chicken
“Primrose is a neo bistro focused on natural wine and creative cooking tucked away in Brookland,” Primrose Owner Sebastian Zutant says. This aesthetic gem of a restaurant is most known on social media for its dramatic French decor, feather chandeliers, and turquoise bar, but its food and wine program is what keeps guests coming back. There’s not much better than posting up at the bar with a glass of bubbly, the smash burger with gruyere, and onion jam, and a frites and béarnaise to split. 3000 12th St. NE, DC; primrosedc.com // @primrose.dc
Shababi’s debut started as a pop-up concept in a ghost kitchen in West Alexandria, and, since then, their pop-ups, private dining and catering have sold out across the DMV. Their lamb burger with smoked lamb shoulder, seven spice, white cheddar, pickled sumac onions and shatta mayo at Hill East Burger was a recent hit. “Shababi was born from my desire to share the narrative of being a Palestinian in diaspora,” Owner and Chef Marcelle Afram says. “[It’s] a story often silenced in my culinary journey, inspired by my upbringing, and the need for Palestinians to reclaim our culinary traditions, crafting a concept that caters to fellow Palestinians in the diaspora seeking a taste of home, and also introduces our cuisine, culture and story to those unfamiliar.” shababichicken.com // @shababidc
The Red Hen Opened: 2014 Neighborhood: Bloomingdale Can’t-Miss Dish: Beef cheek pappardelle When you want a delicious, cozy meal, there’s nowhere better than The Red Hen, where you’ll find great Italian food in a neighborhood restaurant. Chef and owner Mike Friedman describes their special formula, “Capturing lightning in a bottle is difficult in our industry, but The Red Hen manages to have all the great components of a magical place — a great neighborhood (shout out to Bloomingdale), amazing ambiance in a historic building, seasonal Italian cuisine created by caring chefs, a delicious beverage program with a unique and accessible wine list, and lastly, an outstanding team churning out warm hospitality every day. After 10 years, what more can you ask for? Maybe another plate of rigatoni… 1822 First St. NW, DC; theredhendc.com // @redhendc
The Royal Opened: 2015 Neighborhood: Shaw Can’t-Miss Dish: Arepa rancheros Any time of day, The Royal has you covered. There aren’t many restaurants in D.C. that offer breakfast to dinner service, but The Royal makes up for that lack. A standby in Shaw for nearly a decade, this neighborhood spot is reliably delicious, whipping up Latin-inspired dishes. 501 Florida Ave. NW, DC; theroyaldc.com // @theroyal_dc
Shilling Canning Company Opened: 2019 Neighborhood: Navy Yard Can’t-Miss Dish: Maryland crab cakes Shilling Canning Company combines the farm-to-table flavors of the Chesapeake Bay with a perfect ambiance that falls somewhere between coastal Mid-Atlantic by day, moody by night. “The restaurant almost exclusively sources from the local food community, partnering with oyster farmers, fishermen, butchers and growers within a neighboring distance to provide what isn’t produced in-house,” Reid Shilling, owner and chef, says. Elevated oysters, fried chicken and ham biscuits are favorites on the menu, and the brown butter cookies that come out at the end of the meal are a welcome surprise. 360 Water St. SE, DC; shillingcanning.com // @shillingcanningcompany
Sushi Taro Opened: 1986 Neighborhood: Dupont Circle Can’t-Miss Dish: Tekka chirashi Walk up 17th Street on a Friday afternoon, and you’ll wonder why people are lining up next to the CVS. They’re waiting for their turn at the omakase counter at Sushi Taro, which is entering its fourth decade in the District — yet its popularity hasn’t waned. 1503 17th St. NW, DC; sushitaro.com // @sushitarodc
Sababa
Tiger Fork
Opened: 2018 Neighborhood: Cleveland Park Can’t-Miss Dish: Harissa-marinated chicken thighs
Opened: 2017 Neighborhood: Shaw Can’t-Miss Dish: Pork ribs
Make the trip up to Cleveland Park for this cozy neighborhood restaurant that serves modern Israeli dishes, like roasted carrots, smoked trout and roasted halloumi. It’s the perfect dimly-lit spot for a weekday date night where you want something lowkey but warm and mouthwatering. 3311 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; sababauptown.com // @sababadc
Reservations are still hard to snag at Shaw’s perennially cool Tiger Fork, where you’ll find creative takes on classic Hong Kong cuisine. Tucked away in Blagden Alley, the restaurant is also known for their inventive cocktails that juxtapose ingredients like mezcal with yuzu, miso, honey and hellfire bitters. 922 N St. in Blagden Alley, NW, DC; tigerforkdc.com // @tigerforkdc
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Honorable Mentions Just as good as any restaurant on this list, there are several others that District Fray’s publisher recommends checking out. Joon is serving rich, flavorful, warm Iranian food in Tysons, while Whitlow’s has elevated their longtime Arlington bar experience by relocating to U Street. There’s always Hank’s Oyster Bar, which has been a D.C. favorite for years. For those traveling for work, there are great restaurants to be found at the Royal Sonesta, National Landing and the Gaylord. If you’re in Maryland, hit up Pike & Rose — it’s walkable and vibrant, with a dog park right in the middle, it features outposts of D.C. favorites including Call Your Mother and Roaming Rooster. Call Your Mother Various locations callyourmotherdeli.com @callyourmotherdeli Hank’s Oyster Bar Various locations hanksoysterbar.com @hanksoysterbar Joon 8045 Leesburg Pike, Suite 120 Vienna, VA eatjoon.com @eat.joon Roaming Rooster Pike & Rose 11586 Old Georgetown Rd. North Bethesda, MD roamingroosterdc.com @roamingrooster1 Whitlow’s 901 U St. NW, DC whitlows.com @whitlowsdc
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Imperfecto Executive Chef Enrique Limardo plating steak tartare. Photo by Jennifer Chase.
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Holy Smokes! Behind the scenes at Ivy City Smokehouse
WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER | PHOTOS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN Earlier this year I had an awakening — a smoked salmon awakening. It started out simple enough: In April I was assigned to tour Ivy City Smokehouse with photographer Scott Suchman. Not wanting to miss out on shadowing a photographer I highly respect, I jumped at the opportunity. When entering the facility, the smell of the ocean permeated the space. We proceeded to suit up with coats and hair nets. Settling into the chill of the factory, Suchman began to set up his light equipment and shot two opened bins of suspended fresh salmon floating in marinades. Following the salmon’s journey, we made our way to the smokers. As Suchman opened the door to the smoker to get a shot of the smoke billowing out around the racks of salmon filets, my throat and eyes began to sting. Not lasting
more than a minute with the smoke, I stepped away behind a partition and chatted with co-founder Greg Casten about his commitment to sourcing quality salmon from Chile while Suchman continued to snap away. Casten recalled the moment he knew he wanted to start a smokehouse after visiting Ivy City Smokehouse co-founder Ron Goodman at his Goodman’s Deli in Potomac, Maryland. “Ron had me taste his in-house smoked salmon and I loved it,” Casten says. “After that, I always wanted to smoke my own.” Both Goodman and Casten have been in the business of sourcing and selling fish since the ’80s. For the last seven years, smoking salmon together has exceeded their expectations. They currently sell 400,000 pounds of products annually. DISTRICT FRAY | 41
As we weaved through several rooms dedicated to different steps of the process, there was care and attention to detail everywhere we went. This can be credited to smokehouse master Jesus Bercian who runs daily operations. Employing only 22 people, a mother-son duo joke and swap stories as they scale, debone and filet the fish before heading to the smoker where it can stay anywhere from 1-15 hours depending on if hot smoked (shorter) or cold smoked (longer). Once the salmon is smoked, it is carted to another room where a team of workers slice it before a machine packages the product. Their four in-house products — traditional cold smoked salmon, peppercorn hot smoked salmon, honey smoked “candy” salmon and smoked tuna whitefish salad — are all sold daily in their market attached to the facility in Ivy City, and customers can also enjoy a smoked salmon platter upstairs at their Ivy City Smokehouse Tavern. It was at the tavern that I had my first sample of all three smoked salmon products. Casten prepared a toasted bagel, slathered with cream cheese and piled high with their classic smoked salmon, tomatoes, briny capers and red onion. As I took my first bite of the bagel with the works, I instantly was smitten with the salty smokiness, yet balanced freshness that was Ivy City Smokehouse salmon. Casten continued playing with different combinations of toppings (cucumber and cream cheese with candied salmon, peppercorn hot smoked salmon with tomato, and a drizzle of horseradish) and handing them off to Suchman and me to try. Since that experience, I have become hooked on smoked salmon. I crave and order it at least once a week at different cafes when working remotely or at brunch with friends. While I’ve ventured into other smoked salmon brands, I still prefer Ivy City Smokehouse. So much so that when I can’t find them at my nearest Safeway or Whole Foods, I make a pilgrimage to their Ivy City market and stock up on a variety of packaged smoked salmon before driving home to Northwest. I never regret the trip. Ivy City Smokehouse: 1356 Okie St. NE, DC; tavern.ivycitysmokehouse.com // @ivycitysmokehouse
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5 Fresh Global Concepts WORDS BY JAMIE MCCRARY Over the past four years, District Fray has had the honor of spotlighting some of our city’s most talented and innovative chefs and restauranters. And for our last issue of the year, we’re doing just that. These five lesser-known gems in D.C.’s hospitality scene bring fresh, global concepts to the table that nourish community through delicious food. Read on for their stories.
Thompson Italian Gabe + Katherine Thompson, Chefs + Owners Opened in 2019 by Michelin-starred chefs Gabe and Katherine Thompson, this casual family spot serves up nontraditional Italian food for diners of all ages. The husbandand-wife duo envisioned its namesake restaurant as a warm and welcoming place where neighbors could commune over a nourishing dish or glass of wine. “We wanted it to feel like a home away from home,” Katherine says, “like you just visited your best friend’s house and can’t wait to come back.” 46 | DECEMBER 2023
The Thompsons met in 2007 while working for the NYC Italian restaurant Dell’anima, eventually becoming chef-owners at three top-rated spots in Manhattan. After having their kids, the couple relocated to Northern Virginia to be closer to family — and open the restaurant they’d always envisioned. Katherine, who grew up in Arlington, says she relishes the area’s international flair and how it influences the city’s food scene. “We’re endlessly inspired by what chefs are doing here,” she says. “Getting to be part of the restaurant community in my hometown has been meaningful.” Recommended items include the olive oil martini, their signature cocktail, and dishes spanning from lamb meatballs to pastas like ricotta cavatelli with sausage and broccolini. Be sure to stop by their second location in Old Town Alexandria, opened in January 2023, for a taste. 124 N Washington St. Falls Church, VA + 1024 King St. Alexandria, VA; thompsonitalian.com // @thompsonitalian Homemade pasta from Thompson Italian. Photo by Steve Vilnit.
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Saya Salteña Maria Helena Iturralde, Owner
When Dilek and Huseyin Kaygusuz opened Borek-G’s Turkish market and café in 2020, the mother and son were thrilled to plant brick-and-mortar roots in the community. For the 13 years prior, they’d been inhabiting local farmers’ markets, including Falls Church Farmers’ Market, to sell Dilek’s home-cooked Turkish food. The new shop allowed them to expand their menu to dine-in breakfast, lunch and dinner, which features Turkish staples like gözleme (flatbread) with spinach or beef; Turkish pizza and lentil or chicken soup; döner pita; and, of course their namesake pastries. Through her shop, Dilek hopes to share Turkish hospitality and culture, and its many flavors — things that made her fall in love with Turkish cooking in the first place. “I want visitors to feel excited and curious like when we were little kids,” she says. “It should feel like a show with a meal.” The shop also includes a Turkish market with imported cheeses, yogurts and breads. Eventually, Dilek wants to provide a food truck for early morning service and begin selling her goods in grocery stores. She hopes all feel welcomed to stop by, try her homemade Turkish cuisine and relax at the shop. “When a customer walks into our store, it is more as if our welcomed guest walks into our home. We make everyone feel like family in this way.”
Saya Salteña is serving up authentic handmade Bolivian street food, and it just opened a brand-new location in the heart of D.C. Situated in Foggy Bottom between GW and Farragut West Metro station, the restaurant offers seven types of salteñas to start, as well as special Bolivian sandwiches and single origin coffees. Its concept evolved from Bolivian-born owner Maria Helena Iturralde’s passion for her home country’s street food, which she describes as “delicious and unpretentious.” Iturralde got her start out of D.C.’s culinary incubator Mess Hall in 2020, where she experimented and fine-tuned her salteña recipe. Salteñas, similar to an empanada or meat pie, are brothy stews packed with potatoes, hard-boiled egg, peas and olives. Encased in a sweet dough for easy handheld enjoyment, they’re best tackled from the top down (versus the middle). Iturralde envisions her first brick-and-mortar as the beginning of building a “salteña empire” — and proof of concept for Bolivian food in D.C. The spot is also a tribute to Bolivian art: It features indoor-outdoor murals from popular Bolivian duo Arte Sano Mutante, which she plans to feature on Saya Salteñas’ website, t-shirts and in other restaurant branding.
315 S Maple Ave. Falls Church, VA; borekg.com // @borekg2008
Spicy Water African Grill Duraine Kouassi, Owner
Menya Hosaki Eric Yoo, Owner When Eric Yoo realized he was spending workdays daydreaming about cooking ramen, he knew it was time to make a career change. In early 2020, the noodle-obsessed Yoo decided to quit his financial consulting job to pursue his passion for ramen. Menya Hosaki, a small ramen shop on Upshur Street Northwest in Petworth, opened later that year. As chef-owner, Yoo prides himself in serving up housemade noodles crafted from scratch, a culinary tradition inspired by his childhood in Seoul, South Korea. The menu features more than a dozen ramen bowls in styles uncommon to D.C., like the brothless, Taiwanese-style ramen called mazesoba. It also offers a “triple threat” bowl with pork, chicken and smoked fish broths as a tribute to Yoo’s mentor, Keizo Shimamoto, whom Yoo trained with at Ramen Shack in New York City. Ramen enthusiasts hungry for something special should be sure to stop by for Tokusei Tuesday lunch. This weekly lunchtime special offers the housemade ramen of the day; visitors can book their seats ahead of time in the small shop via the waitlist on Yelp on the website. 845 Upshur St. NW, DC; menyahosakidc.com // @menyahosaki
1919 Pennsylvania Ave. Ste. GR 07, NW, DC; sayasaltena.com // @sayasaltena
As the only restaurant in D.C. focused on West African grilling culture, Spicy Water African Grill serves up traditional Ivorian fare in an approachable American format. The U street-based spot, which opened January 2023, is a nod to one of Ivorian-born owner Duraine Kouassi’s favorite parts of home. “No one else in this area offered this type of West African food,” Kouassi says. “Finding a niche like this is an important secret of entrepreneurship.” The restaurant started as a stand in Eastern Market in 2018, where Kouassi grilled and served garlicky charcoal-grilled chicken, a popular street fare Ivorians enjoy after long nights of clubbing. He built a following cooking with his massive, 3-and-a-half-foot-tall by 6-foot wide grill, an approach he says reminds him of Africa. Now in his brick-and-mortar on U Street, Kouassi offers an expanded menu with other grilled meats served on Americanstyle sandwiches and salads, and traditional Ivorian meals like attiéké, the country’s national dish, made from cassava root with the texture of couscous. Visitors can also try more bitesized sides like fried cassava, Ivorian fries and plantains. 2019 11th St. NW, DC; @spicywaterafricangrill
Home for the holidays? MightyMeals has you covered. This local meal delivery service features more than 150 healthy, chef-prepared options for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sign up to receive as many (or few) weekly deliveries you need. Learn more at mightymeals.com and follow on @eatmightymeals.
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MERCY ME’S NEW IDENTITY From braised pork belly with fried rice to a new Brazilian-themed chalet, the downtown restaurant is switching things up with its reopening. WORDS BY ABI NEWHOUSE The new iteration of Mercy Me offers a full sensory experience — one you can feel as soon as you walk through the doors of Yours Truly, the downtown hotel it’s housed in. Inspired by South American flavors, culture and dress, the space is alive with jungle-like plants all over, Latin beats, intimate cozy seating and low lighting. Here, the space and the menu play off each other so well, it almost seems effortless. But for the Unordinary Hospitality Group, consisting of founders Radovan Jankovic, Marko Bogdanovic and Chef Robert Curtis, the planning was meticulous. “We were more than happy to jump in with this project and really embrace the name and the concept, but really put an effort in to make a new identity there,” Jankovic says. Mercy Me started as a “sorta South American” style dinner service in 2020, and evolved over the years until ownership transferred this year. Unordinary Hospitality Group worked to keep this theme up, researching and learning more about different South American dishes and drinks. “We’re injecting energy and life and joy into the experience,” Curtis says. “It’s about taking something we all have a loose idea of, and building, writing that concept to be a little bit finer.” By day, the space is a casual coffeehouse. At night, the team rearranges the area, curates the playlist and prepares for dinner service. “For people who didn’t know this place, they associate it with daytime, sipping coffee out of a paper cup,” Jankovic says. “That’s the biggest challenge for us: to change perception for people that know, but also introduce a new space to new diners.” If nothing else, their thoughtfully prepared menu will introduce previous diners and new diners alike to the new Mercy Me. Appetizers like crudo, ceviche, mussels and gnocchi make way for entrees including lomo — a lamb tenderloin with potatoes and puffed rice — and chaufa — braised pork belly and fried rice. There are also entrees meant to share: large portions of Peruvian chicken, roasted bass and tomahawk steak send diners below the equator.
“I don’t want to say that it’s your mom’s moqueca, but you’re not gonna be disappointed,” Curtis says. You won’t be disappointed with the drinks, either. Jankovic says they started the espresso martini revolution in D.C. a few years ago, so Unordinary Hospitality Group had to bring it here, where they add a twist to a classic by using Brazilian blend ristretto and Amazonian cacao. They also worked to incorporate different nutty flavors, rounding out drinks in surprising and new ways. “In every South American dessert, they use a ton of coconut,” Jankovic says. “So, I was like, ‘I want to keep some kind of piña colada assets here.’” An unlikely pairing was born: a Negroni colada. Jankovic started by making the Negroni, mixing it with lime, pineapple and clarified coconut milk. “It’s not as bitter as a Negroni, but not as sweet as a colada,” he says. “It’s a great balance.” These drinks are joined by innovative mixes on the cocktail menu, like the El Nut Sour, made with aged pisco, amaretto and young coconut and the Stirred with Tamarind, made with bourbon, sour tamarind and ripe banana. At the beginning of December, you’ll be able to sip cocktails and sample cuisines on a new patio with Patagonia-inspired touches, and also in a new Brazilian-themed chalet, where the smell and taste of fresh pineapple cider will add a new element to the overall ambiance. A fire pit will add warmth to the new spaces, and other hot drinks will complete the experience. A private dining space will also be available for groups of 10-14. The new Mercy Me builds on D.C.’s overall dining scene, adding upscale South American offerings to its repertoire. “There was a time when people would go out to eat and genuinely be happy and enjoy,” Bogdanovic says. “It was a convivial, joyful experience to eat. So, we’re looking to bring that, adding more to the weight of the concept itself.” Mercy Me: 1143 New Hampshire Ave. NW, DC; mercymedc.com // @mercyme.dc DISTRICT FRAY | 49
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Photos by Hawkeye Johnson // Mercy Me DC.
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Photo by Jennifer Chase.
Rose’s Compass Points to Medina A look inside the owner of Compass Rose + Maydan’s new cocktail bar in Northwest
WORDS BY COURTNEY SEXTON
Couples and friends gather around small tables and on woven poufs in a warm, dim glow. Panels of gem-toned fabrics loop in half-moons across the ceiling, the stage set like a Bedouin tent. One might expect to encounter such a scene in an ancient city halfway across the world, not hidden in an alley in Washington, D.C. Far from the culture, food and people that have inspired its creation, Compass Rose and Maydan Owner Rose Previte describes the impetus behind the newest in her growing family of award-winning dining establishments: Medina. “Maydan is inspired by Moroccan fare, but is much more about the Levant, because I’m Lebanese American,” Previte says of her award-winning restaurant just across the alley on Florida Avenue from Medina. “Here, we wanted to get a little bit more into the flavors of North Africa in the drinks and the food.” Those familiar with the region’s culture may know that a “medina” (pronounced “muh-dee-nuh”) is the Arabic word for city. Many of these ancient cities are now surrounded by newer ones, as colonialism drove forced separation. The medina thus became a place of gathering and trade for those under occupation in their own homelands. “For the people who lived there, the medina, the center, was a place for them to take refuge, and [retain their culture], a place to feel safe because they were originally walled,” Previte says. “And so that’s what we want you to feel when you come here.” Medina is, in some ways, Maydan’s “little sister.” With Maydan as the central square and Medina tucked beside it, the sisters speak to each other in the same tongue, with the essence of bringing people together around food and commerce… … and cocktails. Previte says Medina was meant to be very cocktail-forward in a fun rather than pretentious way and it shows. Beverage Director Drew Hairston’s cocktail list is creative yet comfortable. The Fourth Regiment (Rittenhouse
rye, sweet vermouth, celery bitters, Peychaud’s, orange bitters) offers delightful brightness not typical of a classic Manhattan, and the The Daucus (El Dorado, medjool dates, calvados, apricot, peach, carrot-ginger ice) tasted wonderfully like drinking a ginger-laced carrot cake. Mezcal features prominently in several others, you can order martini service for two, and of course, there’s the trendy espresso martini, laced with cardamom to stay on theme. And while cocktails are designed to be the stars of the show at Medina, the food is also standout. Aromatic, warm and all meant to be shared, the lamb, chicken and vegetable tagines are a palate’s delight, and the brik a l’oeuf is a Maydan fan favorite. Previte, of course, is a revered veteran among D.C. hospitality leaders, one of the intrepid entrepreneurs (many of them women-identifying) who have put our fair capital on the map as a food and beverage destination. Like others of her ilk, she has come up with the city during a time of tremendous change, not an insignificant amount of which pre-dates the Covid-19 pandemic. Still, she says, there’s nothing quite like what we are all still navigating today. But her compass certainly seems to be on point. Named the 2023 Restaurateur of the Year by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, Previte celebrates the release of her Maydan cookbook in the same month as opening Medina, and has recently announced the plans for a massive culinary compound in Los Angeles — her half-time West Coast home. “This is a lifestyle, not a job. And when you’re part of it, you don’t know any other way.” Medina: 1328 Florida Ave. NW, DC; medinadc.com // @medinanightsdc DISTRICT FRAY | 53
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From the hours I spend writing — whether it be at my apartment, at a cafe or at an office cubicle — to the times when I meet up with friends to when I curl up and read a book, tea is always there. When I am sick, I grab mint or chamomile. When I am tired (most days), I reach for a green tea variety. And when I am looking for a pick-me-up or a way to make the day feel less monotonous, chai is my reliable sidekick. No matter the circumstance or memory attached, tea has always been a comfort for me. For owner Yunhan Zhang of Valley Brook Tea, relocated from its P Street location to a block away inside The Ven at Embassy Row, he views tea as an unremarkable constant in his life. “Where I am from in China, it is extremely tea-loving because we produce the most tea and the most teaware,” Zhang says as he refills my cup of oolong during a Valley Brook Tea service. “At the bank, the bank manager will be pouring and providing tea in the bank lobby. You go to the dentist or a business meeting, tea is the center of the stage. It’s always been there. We don’t have a tea ceremony, because it doesn’t need to be celebrated. It’s a daily thing. You don’t celebrate going to work every day but you might celebrate a promotion. If you celebrate tea that means tea is not exactly in your life.” Tea for Zhang not only runs in his cultural background but also within his family. Valley Brook Tea is a family-owned and operated tea business. Zhang’s family owns three mountains in Fujian, China, where tea leaves have been grown and cultivated for generations. All of Valley Brook’s teas at their shop and tea house are sourced from his family’s mountains. Zhang takes pride in offering premium-quality tea from the land he was raised on to a clientele who often accepts subpar teas for the sake of accessibility.
“There are so many things about what makes tea good, which I didn’t know until I came to the States because before then, I never had a bad tea in my life,” Zhang says. “At the end of the day, the basic idea is that we present the most authentic, unaltered tea in a way that’s familiar to you.” Like Zhang, the retail and social media manager of Teaism, Lela Singh, also has family ties to the tea business. As a mainstay tea house and shop since 1996 with several locations throughout D.C., Teaism was co-founded by Singh’s mother Michelle Brown, along with Linda Neumann. As a child, Singh has fond memories of helping her mother at the first Teaism location in Dupont Circle. With her father’s family from India, Singh recalls the routine chai brewing on the stove growing up, especially when family came over. “Tea just breaks up your day,” Singh says as she sips on some loose-leaf green tea. “I had this memory come back to me recently. I used to do this really annoying thing as a kid playing make believe with other kids. We pretended someone was injured or sick, and I would pretend to make a tea to make them all better. I’d run around and grab sticks and stones and mash them up and then shove them in the kid’s face, like, ‘Here’s your tea.’ I had it in my head, ‘I’m going to make tea and fix you with it.’” Her love for healing people through tea manifested in her ongoing pursuit to learn about tea varieties ranging from China, Japan and Nepal. While working out of a tea house in Seattle in her early 20s, she took the time to independently educate herself on sourcing the best tea types of each tea variety and understanding the different notes, flavors and depths of tea. How tea is derived is an ongoing education for me. Matcha tea. Photo courtesy of Teaism.
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On a mountain on the island of Samos, Greece, my great aunt, Thea Soula, showed me to my room overlooking my family’s garden. As she opened the door, shriveled gold flowers were laid on a sheet atop the bed, evenly spaced out. “Khamaimelon,” she told me as she carefully lifted the sheet and moved it to her bedroom to finish drying the chamomile flowers. For every fall as long as I can remember, my yiayia brought reused jam jars full of dried chamomile to the U.S. she had picked in Greece that summer. I never really thought about the processing of the tea until I saw the flowers drying when visiting in 2016. For me, it always arrived in an unmarked jar and I would boil with water before straining and enjoying on a day when I needed to feel soothed. “We need to know what makes tea good and what makes tea better, but our customers don’t need to know,” Zhang says. “When you open a bar you need to know what’s a good beer, but customers don’t need to.” At Valley Brook, they have curated their tea menu to introduce their most popular teas to people through a clever tactic. Whether you choose from their oolong, green, black or white list of teas, each section has one tea name in English and the rest of the tea varieties in their traditional Chinese names. Without realizing, I fell into the trap. I ordered the Golden Peony oolong because I felt the most confident pronouncing it and didn’t want to embarrass myself in front of Zhang. “We know what kind of struggle people might have pronouncing the tea name,” Zhang says. “We needed to find a way to present it that is not threatening. We don’t want to call everything in a name where you cannot know the original tea name, though.” The goal is for people to get comfortable with the most introductory teas of each variety before venturing into more niche ones that have their proper names listed. While it would be nice for Zhang to always be able to prepare you a cup, for tea drinkers who want to move past casual drinking and learn how to make a proper cup of tea at home, Singh recommends exploring the tea you like and simplifying the process. “I came into my own as a tea drinker in college because I was out in the world and I had to figure out how to access comfort,” Singh says. “Chai was always made for me at home. It was a given. Then when I went off to college, I was like, ‘I have to make this happen for myself. I need fresh ginger, I need fennel, I need to go to the Indian store, I need to get the spices that I want.’” Once she was able to brew a chai that pleased her palate, Singh would invite her friends over
to study together and she would serve them chai. At the Teaism Shop in Penn Quarter, there are a variety of tools one can choose from to start regularly preparing tea at home. To start out, Singh recommends the Forlife extra fine metal tea strainer that you can place in a mug and pour hot water directly over the loose-leaf tea in the strainer, or add loose-leaf tea to the strainer and add the strainer to a mug of hot water. She believes steeping tea for as long as you personally prefer as some prefer stronger tasting tea and others prefer weaker tasting tea. “With the brewing equipment, don’t get freaked out,” Singh says. “We have mugs. We have teapots. We have strainers. Remember it’s leaves in water. If it gets bitter, dilute it out. It is not the end of the world.” Zhang takes a more scientific and objective approach to tea preparation, which he shares on his blog on Valley Brook Tea’s website. With 173 entries and counting, Zhang provides insight on the best practices for the best possible brew, including choosing quality water (sorry D.C. tap water), temperatures for each tea (boiling at 212°F, except for green tea which should be brewed at 176°F) and how long to steep each type of tea, which is surprisingly shorter than expected (Zhang advocates almost immediately for most teas if they are high quality). Zhang strongly believes the best way to drink tea is through small batches where the hot water is poured into a cup of loose-leaf tea and then strained into another vessel before being poured into your cup, which is much smaller than your average Western-sized mug. This results in multiple rounds of tea service that becomes a delightful ritual. Both Teaism and Valley Brook sell tea sets where you can brew in this style. To learn how to pour tea in this way, Zhang recommends trying out the Valley Brook Tea service for yourself. Beyond normal hours, every Sunday morning from 11:30 a.m. - 12 p.m., Valley Brook offers a free tea tasting where someone from Valley Brook Tea will guide you through a service and allow you to sample teas. Zhang’s aim is to be approachable, a sentiment Singh also shares. She encourages people to visit the Teaism retail shop in Penn Quarter and she will personally help walk you through finding a tea that is right for your palate and how to properly brew it. “I’ll brew you a cup. I’ll show you how to properly whisk matcha. I like to talk one-on-one because then I can meet you where you’re at.” Wherever you are in your tea journey, there are experts in D.C. willing to help out. All you need is water and leaves. Let the memories begin.
The D.C. Tea Guide FOR QUALITY SERVICE
Valley Brook in The Ven Embassy Row 2015 Massachusetts Ave. NW, DC valleybrooktea.com @valleybrooktea FOR STUDYING
Teaism in Dupont Circle 2009 R St. NW, DC teaism.com @teaism_dc FOR UNPLUGGING WITH FRIENDS
Ching Ching Cha 1314 21st St. NW, DC chingchingcha.com @chingchingcha FOR HOLIDAY SHOPPING
Teaism Shop in Penn Quarter (for a post-shopping snack, head to their tea house next door) 400 8th St. NW, DC teaism.com @teaism_dc FOR HIGH TEA
Blue Duck Tavern (serves Valley Brook Tea with their seasonal pairing menu) 1201 24th St. NW, DC blueducktavern.com @blueducktavern FOR A POST-TOUR STOP
Teaism at Lafayette Park 800 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC teaism.com @teaism_dc
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Photo by Ryan Clemens.
CHAPPELL ROAN IS THE PEOPLE’S POP PRINCESS WORDS BY M.K. KOSZYCKI
Self-described Midwest princess Chappell Roan, who now resides in Los Angeles, has a love-hate relationship with both locales. They often crop up in her lyrics and are the focus of much of the mythos of her art. “I go home as much as I can because I don’t feel at peace in Los Angeles. I feel very — I always feel like I want to leave. But then when I get to Missouri, I also want to leave. That’s what I mean by the rise and fall. It’s not necessarily about who I am; it’s that the rise and fall is lonely.” Roan is of course referencing the title of her first full-length album, “The Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess.” Released this September to much acclaim (and many subsequent TikTok trends), she caught up with a virtual room of writers on her day off from her “Midwest Princess” tour. Although her feelings toward Los Angeles and her native Missouri may vacillate, her feelings for the fans and the energy they bring to the room each night never do. She’s been selling out shows, and crowds have been singing every word to every song new and old (at least at her two sold-out D.C. stops at 9:30 Club earlier this year). “It’s a blast every night,” Roan says, smiling. “There’s more and more people who know the words, so it’s been really fun. I love seeing people’s costumes. I love hearing which lyrics people scream louder than others. I always think it’s really interesting, and I’m just like, ‘I didn’t think people would even care about that line.’ It just kind of expands the world for me. It’s so fun to sing with a crowd that knows every word.” Roan skyrocketed into the public’s playlists in 2020 and well into 2021 with her sleeper hit “Pink Pony Club,” a rollicking, disco-tinged odyssey about a girl who finds her place in the world as a dancer in a mythical California club, and the aftermath of loved ones finding out about her job.
In the years between the success of the song “Pink Pony Club” and the release of “Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess,” the world grappled with the Covid-19 pandemic. The song was initially released on April 3, 2020, just in time for the world to fully shut down. Roan found artistic escapism in creating more worlds such as the one in her hit single, blurring the lines between the real and imaginary. “It was a very uninspiring time, I think, for everyone,” she recalls. “So I just worked off my daydreams. That’s kind of what the whole album turned out to be. [The] stories are not necessarily completely fabricated, but [are] kind of just daydreams that you wanted so badly. But I didn’t have a girl in my life, I didn’t have a club to go to. So I just wrote it.” Real or imagined, Roan paints a glitter-bombed, queer and earnest world in each song. From YMCA-style dances (“HOT TO GO!”) that crowds do on command at shows to referencing everything from “Mulholland Drive” to Brigitte Bardot to watching the world deal with an unsavory ex without her interference (“My Kink Is Karma”), nothing’s off limits in her world. “I don’t get scared anymore. I know what it feels like to release a song, and it’s always okay. And people are going to take from it what they want to. They may not even take it how you originally thought they would. I think the only thing I can do as an artist is just be as authentic as I can. If that means writing something that’s vulnerable, I have to do that.” Listen to “The Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess” wherever you stream music, and keep up with Chappell Roan at iamchappellroan.com and on Instagram @chappellroan.
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MUSIC
Mx. Mundy’s New Album “Future Nature” A sonic journey to finding light in the darkness
WORDS BY EVAN HECHT
For Mx. Mundy, the hardest part of creating their debut album “Future Nature” was knowing when to stop. The self-described punk pixie’s latest project features a spectrum of sounds and inspirations, from Björk to David Bowie to, of course, the natural world around us. Nature is an essential part of Mundy’s identity as an artist, and their art itself. “It always starts with nature for me,” Mundy says. “Whether it’s the birds or the wind chimes or the way the trees rustle. Those are always the seeds of my inspiration.” Their inspiration culminated in the nine tracks on “Future Nature,” which also celebrate community, unity, queerness and the light that comes out of the dark moments in life. “Velvet Revolution” is one of the many versatile tracks featured on “Future Nature,” as well as the house-inspired “No Holding Back” to synth track “I’ll Protect You” to slow jam “Kind Time.” Each song provides a unique sonic experience while still creating a cohesive body of work. Mundy is an indelible part of D.C.’s creative culture, known for collaboration with figures like DJ Farrah Flosscett and artist Lisa Marie Thalhammer at DC9 shows and at District Fray’s Art Out Loud party in June, as well as our Cult Classic Halloween party this past October. Their music stands out within their other roles as composer, performer and producer, but they actually began their performance work in the realm of theatre. 58 | DECEMBER 2023
“I was always trying to do music as well [as theatre], but for some reason, I told myself I wasn’t good at it. But one day, I decided that was okay, and gave myself permission to fail at first and just keep trying.” Born and bred in D.C.’s creative world, Mundy made the decision to pivot to music full time, in part to take complete creative control over their onstage persona. “I wanted to be the brightest, truest [and] weirdest version of myself. My intention is that by being my truest, brightest version of myself, then I can hopefully create a sonic space where other people feel safe to do the same.” Mundy has already begun writing songs for their next album, but for now, they hope to get “Future Nature” in the ears of as many people as possible — and will be bringing their new songs to a stage near you next spring. That’s where they thrive — their background in conservatory and stage sticks with them as a performer today. “What it all comes down to at the end of the day is that I’m a storyteller. That’s what I was doing in the theatre world, and that’s what I’m still doing now. Trying to take people on a sonic journey.” Follow Mx. Mundy on Instagram @mundymusik and stream their album at mxmundy.bandcamp.com. Photo by Tré.
LIFE
FPO PHOTO
DISTRICT FRAY | 59
THE FINAL FÊTE
Photo caption. Photo by Credit.
INTERVIEWS BY M.K. KOSZYCKI + PHOTOS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN Our editor-in-chief Monica Alford invited seven friends, collaborators and partners in crime who just so happen to be some of the driving forces behind D.C.’s thriving creative scene to take a seat at the Petite Cerise table and chat hidden talents, alternate career tracks and what they’re up to next.
DISTRICT FRAY | 61
MAGGIE O’NEILL
BRANDON HILL
Alternate career track. Talk show host.
Sum yourself up in one sentence. A cool dude who likes to make art, paint walls, and eat sunflower seeds and blue crabs.
Favorite touristy part of D.C. The National Mall and all the monuments. They’re so majestic and never get old to me.
Ideal work environment. Great friends, open space, a little music in the background, great lighting, being amongst other thinkers.
Ideal work environment. Being in my studio with tons of natural light and great music.
Hidden talent. I worked at the National Aquarium in Baltimore for many years, and one of my jobs was called stroller check (think coat check). I could break down and fold up any stroller type, make or model in seconds without looking. I’m also great at IDing voice actors in TV commercials. I’m pretty spot on.
Artist, Designer, Entrepreneur + Founder of Vote For Your Daughter
Social media platform you’d nix. X/Twitter. I think we are done here. Favorite D.C. residents, dead or alive. Virginia Ali who helped open Ben’s Chili Bowl, painter Sam Gilliam, and Michelle and Barack Obama. One misunderstood aspect of D.C. you wish people got. We are so small compared to other major cities and capitals. We are only 700,000 compared to eight million in New York City. But we are small but mighty. We aren’t a state, and we are such a transient city that people underestimate our local talent and culture. If you had to, where you’d live instead of D.C. Marrakech, Morocco. I feel inspired, connected and creative there. Dream D.C. collaborator. Pum Lefebure and Hirshhorn Museum. What’s next for you. The Vote For Your Daughter National Public Art Exhibition. Upcoming project with Monica and her team. I’m looking forward to collaborating on the Vote For Your Daughter campaign. Stay up-to-date with O’Neill’s latest projects by visiting her website at maggieo.com and following her on Instagram @maggieoartist. To learn more about Vote For Your Daughter, visit voteforyourdaughter.com and follow @voteforyourdaughter.
Artist + Owner of All Day Murals
Dream D.C. collaborator. The Obamas. Michelle Obama for food equity collaborations, Barack Obama on arts and policy change. What’s next for you. I showed the first “Black Cowboy” exhibit in 2022 in Brooklyn, New York at the Bishop Gallery in East Williamsburg, and am starting to get the collection of work together again and possibly show it here in D.C. I also just recently launched my public arts brand under the name All Day Murals. It’s been a thought in my head for some time now. I can’t wait to see where this new work takes me. I’ve had a blast over the years working with DC Fray, United Fray and District Fray Magazine. Some of the best thinkers in D.C. put that magazine together and have done real justice to shine a light on D.C.’s creative landscape holistically. Great people at every level, true rockstars. I would love to collaborate with public art activations. I’m looking forward to working on some cool free exhibitions and temporary experiences. Alternate career track. Traveling cook or farmer. I like making things, period. Art or cakes — it doesn’t matter. Follow @alldaymurals1 to learn more about All Day Murals’ latest projects. Keep up-to-date on Hill’s upcoming exhibits by visiting brandon-hill.art and following him on Instagram @chickens.of.insta.
DISTRICT DENIZENS | CULTURE
MARIA BASTASCH
E$
Imagination Designer + Creatrix of Disco Mary Collective
If you had to, where you’d live instead of D.C. In the words of Clipse, “I reside in VA, ride in VA. Most likely when I die, I’m gon’ die in VA.”
Sum yourself up in one sentence. Just getting started.
Favorite touristy part of D.C. National Gallery of Art.
Alternate career track. Working for the CDC in the Level 4 infectious disease unit.
Ideal work environment. Home studio when the rest of the DMV is asleep.
Favorite touristy part of D.C. Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception.
Social media platform you’d nix. Myspace because I can’t remember if I ever deleted my page.
Ideal work environment. Large open space with squishy pillows to sit on the floor and areas to build/paint/workshop concepts in real time. Basically, what I’m trying to build now with Disco Mary’s latest pop-up.
Hidden talent. I can Irish exit with the best of them.
Hidden talent. I am inconsistently a solid impersonator.
Favorite D.C. resident, dead or alive. Dave Chappelle.
Dream D.C. collaborator. National Museum of Women in the Arts — so excited for its reopening. Upcoming project with Monica and her team. Many big dreams planned, but most immediately will be the Mindful Drinking Fest the last weekend of January. For this, Disco Mary will be throwing a rave at Culture on January 27. We will be working together to bring all of this to life. Hope to see you there! What’s next for you. This winter, we will be launching a new concept with the Disco Mary Collective Playhaus, a multi-use space focused on fine arts and performance, workshops, events and retail. We want to explore creative and playful mediums for self-care. We want to connect those seeking a new mode of self-expression with working artists and healers. It is custom upcycled vintage, a nonalcoholic bottle shop, yoga flows, apothecary curations, daily “procrastination” coworking hours and so much more to share. It opens mid-December in Union Market.
Illustrator, Painter, Muralist + Animator
One misunderstood aspect of D.C. you wish people got. That traffic ever decreases. It doesn’t.
What’s next for you. I got sidetracked with the District Fray office mural. I’m getting ready for the Umbrella Art Fair, but I’m going to finish and publish my first book this year. Upcoming project with Monica and her team. All I know is that Monica gives me all the creative freedom in our collaborations, and I have always appreciated her for that. I know she has a strong reputation in the art community for being so great to collaborate with. Monica gets it. So, whatever she does I will be there. I will be rooting for her and collaborating in any capacity I can. Dream D.C. collaborator. Rubell Museum DC. Alternate career track. Charming bank robber. Visit emoneyoriginals.com and follow E$ on Instagram @theedollarsign to peruse his art and enjoy his witty commentary.
Get ready to rave and stay up-to-date with all of Disco Mary Collective’s events and pop-ups by visiting their website at discomary.com and following them on Instagram @discomarycollective.
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MAPS GLOVER
Multidisciplinary Performance + Visual Artist Favorite D.C. resident, dead or alive. Other than my grandmother who gave birth to a generation of freethinkers, I would say Solomon Brown. He was a trailblazer who infuriated one of the most prestigious institutions in American culture: the Smithsonian. His dedication and commitment to protecting and cultivating culture is the reason I walk proudly through the doors and see myself. What’s next for you. I will continue to work on myself, as I’ve learned my life as an artist is most successful when I keep my eyes open and remain aware of new opportunities in the ever-changing landscape of society. In addition, I’ll be working with my friends in tech to develop spaces for Black artists to experiment with new technologies that enhance our sensibilities Upcoming project with Monica and her team. I plan to continue to do the same work we’ve been doing: finding ways to immerse art in the everyday to uplift the voices of creative visionaries. I want to highlight the importance of a creative life. Ideal work environment. A space where people are endlessly exploring new ideas and mixing them with old ideas. A place where the trees are free to grow and the water is clean, where the rent is affordable and transportation is accessible. A place where family is considered a priority and art is a natural part of how we communicate. One misunderstood aspect of D.C. you wish people got. Most people see D.C. as a place where politicians reign and people thrive. But D.C. is also home to some of the most talented artists and innovative thinkers. In a lot of ways the city is a juxtaposition of the two: the constant feeling of being silenced and finding new ways to scream louder. Explore Glover’s world and works by visiting mapsglover.com and following him on Instagram @mapsglover.
ASHLEY JAYE WILLIAMS
Multidisciplinary Artist, Muralist + Co-Founder of The Model Mutiny What’s next for you. I am so excited to stave off wintertime depression with my creative peers at the new Disco Mary space in Union Market by Dock 5. I am working on developing a body of work for my solo exhibition entitled “The Jaye Williams Product Line for Men,” which will be at Touchstone Gallery in June 2024. I will also be working on a bunch of textile and wearable fabric fashion pieces for sale at the Disco Mary space and just having fun experimenting as much as possible. Going into 2024, I will have paintings up at the Juried Group Exhibition by the DC Commission on the Arts and Humanities and at Woolly Mammoth. Upcoming project with Monica and her team. First, I want to stalk the whole team and then love bomb them all. Once they are psychologically dependent on me, we can really start moving into group inertia as one “collective.” Once we have adequately reinforced our insular community, we can present a united front as we bring others into our fold. A period of about 8-10 years constructing a complicated web of money laundering and technically not-illegal transactional discretions will put us in a good place to then expand our network and reach the global presence needed to move on to stage #2. Favorite touristy part of D.C. I love the art museums, of course: National Portrait Gallery, National Gallery of Art, Hirshhorn Museum. I love them all. If you had to, where you’d live instead of D.C. I would live with my sister and her family in Italy because I miss my family, the air is fresh, the sea is beautiful and there is so little gun violence. Sum yourself up in one sentence. I am a visual artist and Scorpio with a photographic memory. Observe Williams’ world domination front row by visiting her website ashleyjayewilliams.com and following her on Instagram @ashleyjayewilliams.
DISTRICT DENIZENS | CULTURE
JOY KINGSLEY-IBEH
PAGES 60-61 + 64-65, L TO R. Maps Glover, E$, Joy Kingsley-Ibeh, Monica Alford, Maggie O’Neill, Ashley Jaye Williams, Brandon Hill + Maria Bastasch.
Entrepreneur + Owner of Style By Kingsley + Kingsley Models
Dream D.C. collaborator. I would like to curate an experience with Maggie O’Neill, Paul Wharton and Monica Alford. I think Monica is the perfect person to collaborate with on creating an event that seamlessly merges art, fashion, music and models, while showcasing the collaborative and inclusive essence that our industries embody. It will be big! Sum yourself up in one sentence. I’m a multifaceted Renaissance woman who embodies a resilient and robust spirit. Hidden talent. I can juggle up to three things at a time. Favorite D.C. resident, dead or alive. Author Jason Reynolds. His literature, and the way he lives his life and his values, simply inspire me. One misunderstood aspect of D.C. you wish people got. There is fashion in D.C. It’s not just a government, rigid, suitwearing city. There is a huge fashion and creative community with some of the most talented and stylish people I’ve ever met. What you’d be if you weren’t working your current job. I would most likely be running my nonprofit organization for victims of gun violence. This organization would supply support and financial resources to families who have lost loved ones to gun violence. What’s next for you. I have ambitious plans to launch my styling and modeling workshops, targeting industry professionals and individuals aspiring to break into the business. By offering comprehensive guidance in styling techniques, professional image management and industry insights, I am determined to equip my attendees with the confidence and skills needed to thrive in the competitive world of fashion and modeling. Learn more about Kingsley-Ibeh’s talent and modeling agency at kingsleymanagement.com and follow them on Instagram @kingsleymodels. Need proof D.C. has style? Visit stylebykingsley.com and follow her on Instagram @stylebykingsley and @joykingsleyibeh.
DISTRICT FRAY | 67
LIFE
68 | DECEMBER 2023
Make the Season Bright with 7 Local Holiday Markets
WORDS BY HALEY MCKEY Sunset seems to arrive right after lunch. Wreaths, twinkle lights and blow-up Santas adorn every other door, railing and yard. The holiday season is upon us again here in the DMV. As we turn once again to our lists and our algorithms flood with gift ideas, it’s easy to feel simultaneously overwhelmed and like we’re all ordering presents, decorations and holiday snacks from the same five websites. Want to break out of the consumer slump and have fun doing it? Support local artists, makers and more at a holiday market near you. Below, we highlight markets in D.C., Maryland and Virginia sure to have a little something for everyone on your list.
your dog: Congressional Cemetery is famously pup friendly. Free. 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. 1801 E St. NE, DC; congressionalcemetery.org/event
11.17-12.23
Historic Old Town Alexandria is particularly charming during the holiday season. Check out over 100 artisans at John Carlyle Square, then catch the free trolley to the waterfront and stop in to its cheerful cafes, gift shops and the iconic Torpedo Factory Art Center. Free. 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. John Carlyle Square: 300 John Carlyle St. Alexandria, VA; visitalexandria.com/events
THE DOWNTOWN HOLIDAY MARKET
Open daily, the Downtown Holiday Market features artwork, crafts like ceramics and woodworking; clothing and fiber arts; bath and beauty items; and specialty items like antiques. The festival also has a rotating roster of musical performances and food options from barbecue to Christmas cookies to keep you entertained and energized while you shop. Free. 12-8 p.m. 8th and F Streets NW, DC; downtownholidaymarket.com 12.1-12.3 MCLEAN HOLIDAY ARTS AND CRAFTS FESTIVAL
This holiday market is a juried show that puts the spotlight on skilled artists, artisan and craftwork. Find a one-of-a-kind gift your loved ones will cherish. Bonus: It’s indoors, so a particularly great option if the weekend turns cold and rainy. $5. Various times. McLean Community Center: 1234 Ingleside Ave. McLean, VA; mcleancenter.org/events 12.3 CONGRESSIONAL CEMETERY HOLIDAY MARKET
Still missing Halloween? There’s no better antidote than a local holiday market at one of D.C.’s most iconic cemeteries. Feel free to bring IndiBlossom booth. Photo courtesy of the Downtown Holiday Market.
SILVER SPRING CHRISTMAS MARKET AND HOLIDAY CRAFT FAIR
This Maryland-based holiday market features arts, crafts, jewelry, hair care and more, all at Silver Spring’s beautiful Veterans Plaza downtown. Free. 12-4 p.m. Veterans Plaza: 1 Veterans Pl. Silver Spring, MD; fb.com/ChicEventsDC 12.9 ALEXANDRIA CHRISTMAS MARKET AND HOLIDAY CRAFT SHOW
12.16 PROCRASTINATOR’S MARKET
Looking for that perfect last-minute gift? Never fear. Head on over the Procrastinator’s Market at Kraken Kourts and Skates. The market also features free holiday train rides and a children’s toy drive. Free. 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Kraken Kourts and Skates: 514 Rhode Island Ave. NE, DC; procrastinatorsmarket.com 12.16-12.17 UNIQUE MARKETS IN DC
Skip the mall and shop small. Visit the Union Market District to pick up gifts you can’t find anywhere else from beloved local makers, like Violet Red Studio (art prints) and The Wellness Apothecary (bath and body). $12+. 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Dock 5: 1309 5th St. NE, DC; uniquemarkets.com DISTRICT FRAY | 69
Cheers to a world of taste and mindful choices! Experience a world of flavor with Mocktail Club, where innovation meets health-conscious choices. Our founder’s quest for exciting, non-alcoholic options led to the creation of bold, daring flavors inspired by global travels. We are sold at Giant, Whole Foods, MOM’s Organic Market and Wegmans.
www.mocktailclub.com @mocktailclub
PLAY
Editor-in-chief Monica Alford’s vision for an epic Cult Classic Halloween Party celebrating iconic ’80s and ’90s films, songs and other pop culture references came to life thanks to co-curator Maria Bastasch of Disco Mary Collective and an incredible creative team on Halloween night in Union Market District’s Dock 5. By the numbers 650 partygoers 42 characters + performers 19 makers, artists + tarot readers 7 themed immersive installations 3 surprise performances 2 bars 2 stages 1 costume contest 1 DJ booth 1 massive makers market 1 tarot circle Thank you for the endless support, talent, curation and collaboration from 50+ artists, builders, performers, vendors, makers, musicians and other wildly gifted folks from our D.C. community.
Disco Mary Collective’s Maria Bastasch and artist Maps Glover. Photos by Joe Jasper.
72 | DECEMBER 2023
Some of our favorite moments from the Cult Classic Halloween Party at Dock 5 in Union Market District, a co-curated vision from District Fray’s Monica Alford and Maria Bastasch of Disco Mary Collective. Photos by Ben Droz Photography and María Mónica Cortés.
Skate Through Winter at 9 Outdoor Ice Rinks WORDS BY KATHERINE MAHONEY With all the snow predicted in the DMV in the coming months, we’re keeping our fingers crossed for an impending winter wonderland. But while we wait impatiently for the local snowfall of our dreams, we can still embrace the cooler weather by skating at these local rinks. THROUGH 12.31 ENCHANT CHRISTMAS AT NATIONALS PARK
Nationals Park is transforming this holiday season into an unrivaled ice escapade. Skate through a trail of sparkling lights and pick up a few last-minute gifts at the artisan village. $36+. Various times. 1500 South Capitol St. SE, DC; enchantchristmas.com // @enchantwdc THROUGH 1.1 THE WINTER VILLAGE AT CAMERON RUN
Spend half the time skating and the other half posing for pics at The Winter Village. With pizza, music and even a spot to roast marshmallows, this rink can’t get any better. $8+. Various times. 4001 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA; novaparks.com // @iceandlightscameron THROUGH 1.28 HOLIDAYS IN BALTIMORE AT THE FOUR SEASONS BALTIMORE
Why stop at just an ice rink? Four Seasons Baltimore has a rooftop winter village through January equipped with an ice rink, festive menu, semi-private cabanas and more. Free+. 1 p.m. 200 International Dr. Baltimore, MD; fourseasons.com // @fsbaltimore THROUGH EARLY 2024 ROCKVILLE TOWN SQUARE OUTDOOR ICE SKATING
Featuring 7,200 square feet of ice, this rink is definitely the spot for anyone looking to try out tricks. Once you’ve frozen over, stop at one of the many nearby restaurants and warm up. $10+. Various times. 131 Gibbs St. Rockville, MD; rockvilleiceskating.com // @skaterockville
THROUGH JANUARY 2024 COLOR BURST ICE RINK AT MERRIWEATHER DISTRICT
Throughout the skate season, keep an eye out for food and drink pop-ups, themed events, celebrations and more at this Merriweather District rink. If you’re looking for a way to never step off the ice, buy their season pass. $12+. Various times. 6100 Merriweather Dr. Columbia, MD; merriweatherdistrict.com // @merriweatherdistrict THROUGH 2.25 ICE SKATING AT WASHINGTON HARBOUR
Who needs NYC when you have Washington Harbour? This Georgetown ice rink is second to none with more ice than Rockefeller Center and amazing views of your favorite city. $11+. Various times. 3050 K St. NW, DC; thewashingtonharbour.com // @washingtonharbour THE WHARF ICE RINK
The Wharf gets you one step away from skating on a river with its over-water rink. Plus, stay tuned later this winter to join DC Fray and morph into a hungry human hippo. Transform into your childhood self and get ready to dominate the ice. $13+. Various times. 970 Wharf St. SW, DC; wharfdc.com // @thewharfdc THROUGH 3.3 ICE RINK AT THE SCULPTURE GARDEN
For art lovers, the Sculpture Garden at the National Gallery of Art boasts an extensive rink in a can’t-beat location. Skate surrounded by mesmerizing sculptures and views of the National Mall. $12+. Various times. 7th Street and Constitution Avenue in Northwest, DC; nga.gov // @ngadc THROUGH LATE MARCH SILVER SPRING ICE SKATING AT VETERANS PLAZA
Equipped with over 400 skates, the rink offers guaranteed fun for the whole family. Reserve your spot to skate today. $11+. Various times. 8523 Fenton St. Silver Spring, MD; silverspringiceskating.com // @silverspringiceskating
PLAY
Exciting New Experiences Await Wizards Fans This Season WORDS BY KAYLA LUPOLI
The Washington Wizards’ 2023 season is officially underway, and there are a ton of exciting new things for fans to experience at Capital One Arena. This season, fans can expect not only brand new concessions from local vendors we all know and love, but also new seating options for the fans who like to go the extra mile when seeing their favorite team. “Guests visiting the arena this season can expect to see exciting new food and beverage options, state-of-theart premium seating spaces, innovative technology used throughout the building and a warm, welcoming hospitality experience,” says Jordan Silberman, senior vice president and general manager of Capital One Arena, Monumental Sports & Entertainment. A major highlight for the season lies in the food options. D.C. locals can now find some of their favorite spots at the arena. New options include CHIKO, Honeymoon Chicken, Little Miner Taco and Stuggy’s Sandwich Shop. Each concession is now accessible in all areas of Capital One Arena, so attendees won’t have to worry about walking up and down just to get food. The driving force behind these new concessions was all about listening to what the fans wanted and going through with it. “People have been asking for it,” Silberman says. “It was really just being responsive to the fans’ requests.” A small but important addition to Capital One Arena are the GS Draft ReverseTap Smart Dispensers that were installed. These dispensers allow fans to fill their drinks from the bottom up, no longer forcing them to wait in line for another beer or cocktail. It’s all about getting fans back in their seats so they don’t miss the game. The best part? The GS Draft ReverseTap Smart Dispensers refill beers in a way that prevents too much foam from happening. It’s a win-win for fans. Working with local restaurants and innovative beverage technology aren’t the only things fans can look forward to. This season, Wizards fans will be able to experience a brand new seating option with the Hennessy Lofts. This area
is courtside and features reserved banquet-style seating that can sit up to six people. These lofts also include a curated five-course dinner as well as access to a full menu of beer, wine and cocktails by Hennessy served directly to the seats by an in-house service team. The Hennessy Lofts can accommodate up to 60 people per night, making the ultimate experience for die-hard Wizards fans. Courtside seats are nothing new, but this high-end seating arrangement is. Creating a high-end lounge experience for fans was a big factor for the lofts. Things such as bottle service being available, create a unique, once-in-a-lifetime atmosphere that fans won’t soon forget — especially since they’re the best seats in the arena. “NBA, NHL, NFL, there’s really nothing close to what we want to do,” Silberman says. Located right next to Capital One Arena is District E, an esports venue where fans can go both before and after games to have even more fun. The main event space takes up most of the venue, but they also have District Bites, a restaurant that offers everything from dinner to dessert to even happy hour. Even better, their dishes use locally sourced ingredients from around the DMV. “It’s an opportunity to extend the game beyond the building,” Silberman says. “A lot of our fans are asking for the chance to come together and schedule time before and after games.” Fan experience and listening to what the fans want are key parts that the team behind the changes for this NBA season focus on. By doing this, they have created something that can only be experienced at Capital One Arena. “We strive night after night to ensure that the fan experience at Capital One Arena is second to none,” Silberman says. The Washington Wizards’ 2023-2024 season runs through April. For the full schedule, check out nba.com/wizards/schedule. Purchase single game tickets as well as suite packages at nba.com/wizards/tickets-2. Keep up with the Wizards on Instagram @washwizards. DISTRICT FRAY | 75
FUN
Isabel Coss. Photo by Alex Lau.
CREAM OF THE CROP
IN OTHER WORDS
Lutèce Pastry Chef Isabel Coss shares why joy is her secret ingredient.
WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER No day is the same for Isabel Coss. Recently named Best New Chef in America by Food & Wine, Coss currently splits her time between running the dessert and pastry program at the multiple award-winning Georgetown French bistro Lutèce and putting the finishing touches on her upcoming Mexican restaurant, Pascual (named after San Pascual, patron saint of cooks and kitchens). On this particular Wednesday morning, Coss unlocks the door to a closed Lutèce, flips the lights on, disassembles the stacked chairs, sets the table and invites me to take a seat. She then makes a quick stop behind the bar to grab two bottles, asks if I would prefer still or sparkling water, pours us both still, then finally takes a seat herself. While only 10 a.m., this is Coss’ second stop of the day. The pastry chef is currently taking an 8 a.m. morning class to learn Mixtec, an endangered language native to Oaxaca. “I am inspired by the food of southern Mexico,” Coss says. “I use their ingredients. I admire their cuisine. I enjoy their mezcal. I think it’s respectable to learn the language and know where the food comes from and know where the words of the food come from.” With this ethos, Coss is able to set herself apart in the culinary world. She excels because she fundamentally cares and is passionate about every aspect of understanding culture and community as it relates to food.
This is a pattern for Coss. Eight months ago, she finished an 11-month apprenticeship at The Creamery at Union Market, where she woke up at 4 a.m. to learn how to perfect making ice cream under owners Daniel and Jessica Burdge’s tutelage without missing a beat from her other work obligations. There are no cut corners for Coss, and she does this with a genuine enthusiasm and excitement to learn rather than a chore. Her infectious and bubbly personality translates to every one of her dishes, which is matched with masterful technique from years of training at top restaurants like Pujol in Mexico under legendary Chef Enrique Olvera, and Cosme in New York. Coss plans to make her way to Capitol Hill in the afternoon to see if today is the day they pass inspection so she can begin testing the wood fire oven at Pascual and start cooking. Thirty different corn varieties are stocked and waiting for Coss to incorporate into the upcoming menu that is inspired by her hometown in Mexico City. Sourced from four different states, the corn differs in size and color and she is particularly eager to work with the pink corn because of its depth in flavor that reminds her of cacao. Before heading over to Pascual, Coss chatted with me about her upcoming restaurant, her latest dessert she is excited about and how joy is her driving factor in all ways of life.
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District Fray: Desserts on your menu are refined but still playful and whimsical, like the 18-month Comté cheese and honey semifreddo that is a play off a cheese plate. What is your approach when creating a dish? Isabel Coss: First and foremost, I like desserts to be delicious. I like when desserts feel relatable, so when something is visually very different or abstract but the flavors are familiar — or vice versa. You know how it looks, but it tastes completely different than expected. Those are my two approaches. I like highlighting a good pastry or cooking technique. I like to introduce new ingredients to people’s palates by presenting them in a very common way. So it’s just a tart with creme anglaise but the flavor inside is tonka bean and Mexican chocolate. On Lutèce’s website, your bio says you believe “food is the most humble and vulnerable way to give and find joy and connect as humans…” So what is giving you joy right now? My team gives me a lot of joy. We went for Korean barbecue yesterday all together. It was the last day of one for our cooks, Pepe, who had been here for six months and he was incredible, so we were all celebrating his work. As soon as someone enters to work at this restaurant, they put a part of themselves here. It’s a stressful job that requires so much. When people put their soul and energy into this place, I’m very grateful to them. My team leads that part of my happiness. I see them grow, I see them learn and I see them become friends with each other and stay friends after leaving. I care about them. Is there a current dish that brings you joy? Yes, right now Parisian flan. I’m doing it with puff pastry because I like all the layers. Inside the crust, I make a custard and bake it slowly and low temperature to set it up. So when you cut it, it’s still soft and chewy inside, [but] a little burnt on the top and crunchy because of all the puff pastry on the outside. And it jiggles when you move it. That is bringing me a lot of joy. I’ve been recipe testing for a month and it is going live this upcoming Monday. Tell me about your upcoming restaurant Pascual with your husband, and the executive chef of Lutèce, Matt Conroy. I grew up in Mexico City, and it is Mexico City-inspired. I’m also very excited to dive into family recipes from my grandmother [who is from Michoacán]. It’s the food I grew up eating and it’s the food I miss the most. I’m just trying to cook the foods that I crave. Like chilaquiles for brunch and barbacoa on the weekends. You’ve worked at some of the best fine dining restaurants, covering a range of different cuisines, including Mexican, Danish and French. When did you realize you wanted to open a restaurant that focuses on your hometown and upbringing? I think every cook’s dream is to open a restaurant in some sort of way. I was living in New York City for 12 years before moving to D.C. And the more you’re in New York, the more you learn, the more you get attached to that life. 78 | DECEMBER 2023
But then you start realizing that opening a restaurant there is nearly impossible. The competition is really big. So my husband and I decided to slow down a little after the pandemic, and moved to D.C. I think the first day we stepped foot in D.C. we knew we wanted to open a Mexican restaurant here. Lutèce has been so gracious and so nice to us. In the back of our heads, it’s always been [our goal] to open a Mexican restaurant [though]. My husband and I met at a Mexican restaurant in New York working stations next to each other. What can guests expect at Pascual? Will you have influence beyond pastry? I’m going to have a lot of input on the savory part of the food. I think you can expect a lot of flavor. What makes Mexican food special is the acidity, the warmth of the spice, the char and the sauces that take forever to do. I think we’re going to try to serve it as you should eat it. We are not going to try to Americanize it. People deserve to have dishes as they authentically taste. I think we have a new era of guests that are educated, that want to try. We hope people fall in love with the food. Will you still oversee pastry? Yes! [laughs]. I’m still going be doing the dessert menu here at Lutèce. I don’t think there will be a dessert program at Pascual as much as we’re going to focus on a bakery. The restaurant has a side window and we are going to have a little bakery called Volcan that will sell traditional Mexican pastries and Mexican drinks. Why did you choose Capitol Hill as the neighborhood for Pascual? You can see the Capitol next to Pascual. It means a lot for me to be able to open a place I want to make feel like home next to such an important building. Like I said, I think food is the most humble way to connect as humans. I really think we’re going to connect with many people there from all backgrounds. I think it’s a place where many good ideas are going to be born and I can’t wait. Holiday dish you are looking forward to this holiday. Pecan pie. Place you go to unwind. Izakaya Seki or Queen’s English. Museum that inspires you. Hirshhorn Museum. Favorite flavor of ice cream. Lemon or lime. Night owl or early bird. Night owl. Coffee or tea. Tea, never coffee. Local dream culinary collaboration. I want to work with everyone. I would love to have a rotating guest chef at Pascual where I can invite every chef in D.C. and have them create a taco of their culture and what they like to do. The tortilla would just be a vehicle to show what they love. Pascual is set to open at the end of this December or the beginning of 2024. Lutèce: 1522 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; lutecedc.com // @lutecedc Pascual: 732 Maryland Ave. NE, DC; pascualdc.com // @pascual.dc
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FUN
Crossword CREATED BY MYLES MELLOR
In our crossword this month, we invite you to enjoy a smorgasbord of chefs, new restaurants and foodie treats. As you solve it, perhaps the flavors and aromas from these classy joints will invite you to try them out! NOTE: Check districtfray.com for the answer key.
Across 1
Centrolina chef, Amy _____
7
Cocktail favorite named after a juniper berry
9
Canvases, say
35 Newly opened French bistro on 16th Street 37
38 Request to Sajak 39 ___ Concerts 41
11
A la ___ menu
13
Little League coach, often
42 Mexican restaurant in La Cosecha serving fabulous Salsa Macha
14
Georgetown recently welcomed this Cady’s Alley sushi spot
16
Allows to run out
19
Tech department, abbr.
22 Hotel where chef de cuisine Ria Montes serves soft-shell crabs 23 @ 24 Detroit style pizza place in the DMV, ____ Squared
30 Radio band, abbr. 32 DMV time, abbr.
80 | DECEMBER 2023
H Street NE comfort restaurant with playful cocktails
Down
15
Non-Rx
17
___ Jordans
18
Halloween month, abbr.
21
Eggs companion at breakfast
23 Cries of regret 25 Greek restaurant serving mezze which brings a members only dining experience to DC
1
Place to order an old-fashioned
2
Rolls Royce emblem
3
Had a course, e.g.
27 New supper club inside Butter Me Up, After ___ DC (number spelled out)
4
Much -loved local chain serving frozen treats, ___ Gelati
29 Pizza shop on Wisconsin Avenue, ____ New Haven Style Apizza
5
Spotted
30 ___jack: another word for pancake
6
Friendlier
31
7
Great Mexican dish served at Cielo Rojo on Carroll Avenue in Takoma Park, MD
33 Kind
26 Laze, with “out” 28 2009 Pixar movie
Digital marketer and foodie who created Nom Digital - a marketing agency for food and hospitality, Kimberly _____
Part of a parfait
10 Sister restaurant of Carey and Yuan Tang’s Rooster & Owl, ____ Bird
20 Tortilla chip snack
14
8
Must-haves
12
Sunbathe
Food list
34 Overcook 36 “To ___, With Love” 40 Part of DMV, abbr.
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YOUR PLACES FOR MUSIC AND VINYL IN WASHINGTON, D.C. Co-owners Joe Lapan and Alisha Edmonson. Photo by Kimchi Photography.
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