DRINK
GAMECHANGING LAWS SHAKE UP THE DRINK INDUSTRY WORDS BY KELSEY COCHRAN The beverage world is changing, for better or worse. This is clear from the swift introduction of legislation permitting the delivery and takeaway of cocktails from bars in D.C., Maryland and Virginia with the sale of food items. Wineries, craft breweries and cideries in the DMV can now ship their alcohol across state lines. Businesses have been pushing for such changes for years, but the introduction is bittersweet. Lawmakers are hoping that implementing looser restrictions on the sale of alcohol will soften the economic blow small businesses are facing, but not every business has the bandwidth to take advantage of this opportunity. Locals in the drink industry spoke with District Fray about how their businesses have been impacted by Covid-19, and how these game-changing laws have shaken up the trade. 22 | MAY 2020
ALLEGORY Eaton Hotel’s acclaimed cocktail bar has completely shut down operations until June at the earliest. Because the downtown hotel closed its doors, Allegory did not have the ability to stay open for delivery or pickup. Head bartender Paul Gonzalez is keeping his chin up despite the setback. Focusing on silver linings, Gonzalez is excited that the Allegory team has time to go over a new menu release with a fine-tooth comb. He hopes that by the end of quarantine, he will have a fun and approachable menu to present to customers. “It’s definitely going to be different, but different doesn’t necessarily mean bad,” he says. “[It’s] not going to be a full bar, but that just means you should be taking the
extra time to really cultivate and craft an experience for your guest.” Gonzalez has also been staying busy and getting creative by drawing and painting, working on the Allegory brand, hosting virtual cocktail classes, and reaching out to regulars. He knows that Allegory may not be able to see another packed bar for a long time, and is trying to get used to that new future. “Being physically together is something we took for granted for so long and now…” Gonzalez’s words hang in the air. He looks forward to greeting his customers and the challenges of the post-Covid world when all of this is said and done. Jon Schott of The People’s Drug. Photo courtesy of Jon Schott.
