15 FEMME issue
S/s 2018
DWF MAGAZINE S / S ‘ 18
NOELLE TORRILLO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
DANIEL ESTRADA CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ISABELA FRAIZ MANAGING EDITOR
FASHION
FASHION DIRECTOR: ARIEL ENGEL; STYLE DIRECTOR: KIRSTYN MARSH; WOMENSWEAR TEAM: LAURA HADDAD, VANESSA LANG, & CECILIA MONGE; MENSWEAR TEAM: ADI COHEN; STYLISTS: ANDREA ALESSANDRINI, MARIEL BATTLE, CELINES HERNANDEZ, SYDNEY HOWARD, MARIA LOBOGUERRERO, MADDIE MIYAHARA, VERONICA QUINTERO, MARY SWEITZER, & YANFEI YANG BOOKINGS DIRECTOR: ALLY MOTUSH; MODEL SCOUT: DIVYA DHAMIJA
BEAUTY
BEAUTY DIRECTOR: MEGAN HUBBARD BEAUTY TEAM: PAOLA OTHON, ALEXIS POULOS, & KATIE ROMBEIRO
FEATURES & ARTICLES COPY EDITOR: DELANEY WILLIAMS; ONLINE COPY EDITOR: JESSICA COLEGROVE; WOMENSWEAR COPY EDITOR: GILLIAN MARTON; WRITERS: AUDREY ANELLO, LAUREN EDMONDS, KATHERINE HIGGINS, ALYSSA LAMAS, TAYLOR MITNICK, & NATALIA RAMIREZ
CREATIVE COMMERCIAL VIDEOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: MATTHEW MANYAK; EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHER: CHELSEA BECKTON; BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOGRAPHER: TARA WILSON; GRAPHICS DIRECTOR: HEATHER CARPENTER; GRAPHICS TEAM: CHANDLER DEMPSEY
EVENTS, ADVERTISING, & SOCIAL MEDIA
EVENTS DIRECTOR: NAOMI BELL; EVENTS TEAM: DANIELLE HOUSE; ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: PARKER SLOAN LEIRO SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR: CAROLINA VALDIVIA; SOCIAL MEDIA TEAM: AUDREY MOONEY & DALIA PICHEL
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR FACULTY ADVISOR, ROXANNE PARKER 4
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F E M M E SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
6 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
B EAUT Y
FASHION
36 S/S ‘18 RUNWAY TRENDS
8 S/S ‘18 BEAUTY TRENDS
48 DOLCE & GABBANA
11 HOW TO GET BOLD & CHIC EYES
52 LA DOLCE VITA
12 COLOR CORRECTORS
70 WOMEN’S ACCESSORY TRENDS
13 AMP UP SPRING TRENDS
77 AT A GLANCE
14 BARBIE GIRL 20 SPRING BEAUTY MUST-HAVES 24 THE NEWEST NAILS 25 GLAM ON THE GO
78 HOUSE OF GUCCI 80 SIR ELTON’S ANGELS EDITORIAL
102 SAINT LAURENT 110 SAINTS EDITORIAL
26 SPRING HAIR TRENDS
134 VERSACE: THEN & NOW
28 PIERROT
138 ATHENA
34 FIND YOUR PERFECT PERFUME
158 THE ICONS
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL
166 SUMMARY OF THE SEASON 170 CREDITS
106 DWF S/S ‘18 FEMME: ISSUE 15
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL
ON THE COVER MAKAIRA FLANIGAN (PICTURED IN S/S ‘17 GUCCI) CAPTURED BY DANIEL ESTRADA. TO SEE THE FULL EDITORIAL, SIR ELTON’S ANGELS, TURN TO PAGE 80 ISSUE 15: FEMME
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ACCESSORIES FALL 2017
FEMME
S/s 2018
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BEAUTY FAL 2017
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HOMME
S/s 2018
LETTER FROM THE 6
E D I TO R
DWF MAGAZINE
I
’ve sat down to write this letter countless times and still have not been able to find the perfect words to express just how impactful serving as Editor-in-Chief of this magazine has been. I’ll never forget the day I found out I had earned the role - It was finals week Spring ‘16 semester and as I was walking into class to take my last exam, merely days before our Release Party, I heard “congrats Editor-in-Chief” from a then-member of the team. I thought it was a joke; days had gone by and no one heard anything about who it was going to be and as the newest member to the team, I convinced myself that it wasn’t going to be me. I immediately checked my phone and there it was: the email I told myself I was never going to get. Turns out it wasn’t a joke after all. Now, years later, I can’t picture what I would have been doing all this time had I not received it. I thought long and hard about what the theme for this semester’s publications should be, being as they would be not only my last, but also, the last works for key team members who will be graduating this semester as well. As someone who has always put my team members first and sees no difference between my role and anyone else’s, I decided why not create in tribute to them, two Tribute Issues that would be our best yet. A culmination of their hard work and work of the legends that have shaped the publication we have become. But why not take it a step further and in true DWF fashion, make it something memorable that we have yet to do? With that came the idea of Issue 15: Femme and Issue 16: Homme; two Tribute Issues celebrating the women and men, respectively, in fashion as well as the women and men who have served their time and energy with this esteemed publication. I sincerely hope you all see the growth within them that I have seen in all of you. Over the past two years, we as an organization have seen over 110 people walk through our weekly meeting doors and chiefly, four different Vice Presidents who have served time alongside me. Tre, Haley, and Sophia, thank you for all that you did during your time with DWF. It was an honor working with all of you and you each have left a lasting mark with me that I will cherish for years to come. Every single past team member, thank you for your time as well. The memories we’ve made over the years have been some of my fondest. To my current team: I truly believe the best was being saved for last. You all have been more than I could have ever hoped for coming into this
semester. For those of you who have been here for a while, thank you for dedicating your time and continuing to believe in not only me and this publication as a whole, but yourselves as well. I meant it when I said I rarely cry, but the tears I shed with you all could not have been any more genuine. It is the relationships we’ve built along the way that will last infinitely longer than any magazine page count we could have created together. I truly wish I could have gotten to know you all sooner; you have been like a family away from home to me in more ways than I ever imagined. I’m going to miss each and every one of you very dearly but cannot wait to see what the future has in store for you. Dannography, where do I even begin? I’m so glad you found us at the Involvement Fair two years ago. I’ll never forget our first shoot together, Fall ‘16 Beauty, and how far we’ve come since. I don’t even remember how or when we became such good friends and work partners because it feels like I’ve known you my whole life, but I’m so glad we did. Thank you for always believing in me during good times and bad and always reminding me that taking a deep breath once in a while is a good thing. Thank you for so effortlessly being the Creative Director this magazine needed and never doubting any concepts that were thrown your way. You have grown so much as a photographer over the years, and I can’t wait to see what the future holds in store for you and all the incredible covers you will capture. You will always be better than Testino in my eyes. As I say my final goodbyes to the organization and teams that have been everything to me for the past two years, I can’t help but be so unbelievably proud of what we have achieved and the numerous accomplishments in store for my successors and the teams they will form. For the first time in DWF history, I’m passing the torch to two Editor-in-Chief’s as well as a Creative Director who I hope together will continue on this journey and enjoy every second of it. The good times, the bad, the all-nighters, the tears, the successes - all of those moments will shape you as they have shaped me. Trust the process and more importantly, trust in each other. For the last time,
Noelle Torrillo, Editor-in-Chief ISSUE 15: FEMME
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BEAUTY Report
S/S ‘18
B E AU TY T R E N D S Transitioning away from the dramatic hues of Fall, Spring gave us electric eye looks, statement lips, and radiant skin. The environment around us is blooming with new life, and so are Spring beauty trends. Makeup artists are embracing more natural looks complete with bold brows and dewy skin. From a natural shine, to disco-chic glitter, bold and shimmering colors are blossoming on both the eyes, cheeks, and lips, as well. Spring is the ideal time to embrace a change in your beauty routine and be spontaneous.
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DWF MAGAZINE
By: Delaney Williams
ALEXANDER WANG
NO MAKEUP, MAKEUP Fresh faced models with their features highlighted by neutral tones were popular in runway shows such as Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, Victoria Beckham and more. These looks were created with nothing more than a brow gel and a light bronze on the cheeks and eyes. Lip-gloss was the final touch for these effortless no makeup-makeup looks that celebrate the natural beauty of models.
BALMAIN
THE AFTER PARTY LOOK Several makeup artists have been playing around with “the kind of makeup that remains after a party,” as Gato described the look at Cushnie et Ocs. Smudged eyeliner, stained lips, and clumpy lashes made up these dangerous after-party looks.
ALTUZARRA
DEWY SKIN Along with minimal makeup, models showed off natural glowing skin by using dewy foundations. Loewe, Balmain, and Off White were among the many shows that celebrated natural beauty with a hint of sheen.
GIORGIO ARMANI
ALICE + OLIVIA
DRIES VAN NOTEN BALMAIN
DIOR
THICK LASHES It is questionable whether or not thick lashes will ever go out of style. Clumpy spider lashes and voluminous retro lashes are still the hottest of trends. This season, lashes have not been as dramatic as Twiggy lashes, but thick and luscious is still a top trend for the spring. Christian Dior’s models wore this trend with long spider-like lashes that are clumped with mascara.
FUTURISTIC MINIMALISM Several shows this season used completely fresh makeup with a single detail that gave a futuristic twist. Jeremy Scott’s models wore crystals under each eye and Dries Van Noten placed jewels along the upper and lower lash lines as well as along the model’s hair part.
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BEAUTY Report MARNI
MARNI
ROCHAS ROCHAS
ROCHAS
BRIGHT BLUSH Valentino showed us how to stay on trend with the natural glow by adding a nude lip gloss and natural dewy foundation alongside intense blush; the pop of fuchsia coincides perfectly with romantic spring color palettes.
NEO-EYELINER Eyeliner was used to create different shapes around the eye along with unconventional cat-eyes. Tom Ford created a curved wing with black eyeliner, while Natasha Zinko and Rochas outlined the full shape of models’ eyes with liner. The variety in eyeliner looks this season proves that spring is a time for creativity and trying something spontaneous. VALENTINO
FENTY
10
GOLDEN HIGHLIGHTER Makeup artists have been using a pop of gold highlight along with neutral tones to create an angelic golden glow. This gold shimmer is extremely versatile as it has been used on the cheekbones, cupids bow, and inner corner of the eyes. Fenty Beauty is well known for their strobe-like highlighters, and their spring show was not lacking it. It is also reasonably simple to recreate these golden looks at home DWF MAGAZINE
EVERYTHING GLITTER A large range of eye looks included glitter, such as a stripe down the middle of the eyes at the Anna Sui show. More prominent glitter looks were used in the Francesco Scognamiglio show where the model’s entire eye is covered, and Gucci covered only their lashes in glitter. As well as eyelids and lashes, glitter has been taken to the lips. GUCCI
MARNI
MARNI
NEON SMOKY EYES Bright pigments were used to create dramatic eye looks this season. From a blended pastel smoky eye, to color blocked shadow, this spring had it all. Marni’s models wore a thick swipe of color right above their eye crease. This purposefully chunky shadow coincided with the bright florals and colorful hues in this collection.
ARTISTIC LIPS Two toned reds, overdrawn lips, and studded embellishments were just some of the outgoing lip looks that appeared this spring. Models at Sies Majran wore an orange-red lipstick outside their natural lip line, twotones reds at Helmut Lang, and crystals along their bottom lip at Dries Van Noten. HELMUT LANG
URBAN DECAY Naked Palette $54
The
YVES SAINT LAURENT Couture Palette in Couleurs 02; $60
BEAUTY
YVES SAINT LAURENT Couture Palette in Couleurs 01; $60
GIORGIO ARMANI
WARM HUES For the most “natural” of the bold looks this season, don’t be afraid to get a little messy. First, pop your go-to transition shade into your crease. Then, line your lids and water line with a brown pencil and smudge it out.
PAT McGRATH LABS Dark Star 006 Ultrasuede Brown Kit; $130
PAT McGRATH LABS Dark Star 006Ultraviolet Blue Kit, $130
EMPORIO ARMANI
URBAN DECAY Eyeshadow in Oil Slick, $20
HOW TO GET
BOLD & CHIC EYES
SHINE BRIGHT A black smoky eye looks good on everyone - especially one with a metallic accent. Blend a gray shadow on your lids and lash lines. Then, place your best metallic pigment on your lower lash line for extra drama and shine. TOO FACED Better Than Sex Mascara, $23 MAKEUP FOREVER Glitter in Teal 10; $15
The tricks and products behind this season’s must-try looks. By: Noelle Torrillo
MARNI
STRAIGHT FORWARD
TADASHI SHOJI
This look is certainly not for the faint of heart. For best results, use your index finger to “paint” a blue shadow of choice onto your lid in a stripe like motion. Amp it up for a night out by adding a shimmery glitter on top or below.
TOTALLY 80’s TEAL
MARC JACOBS BEAUTY Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner; $25
MAKEUP FOREVER Glitter in Blue 5; $15
YVES SAINT LAURENT Couture Palette in Couleurs 06; $60
Cyndi Lauper would be proud. Rim your eyes with blue liner then apply a teal shade on your upper lids and blend under lower lashes. Add a golden shadow in your inner corners to make your eyes stand out. MAKEUP FOREVER Glitter in Opal 1; $15
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The
BEAUTY
MARC JACOBS BEAUTY Cover(t) Stick Color Corrector in Getting Warmer, Co(vert) Afairs, and Bright Now; $42 each
BECCA Backlight Targeted Colour Corrector in Violet, Pistachio, Peach, and Papaya; $30 each
ALGENIST Reveal Concentrated Color Correcting Drops in Green; $38
STILA
Correct & Perfect All-inOne Color Correcting Palette; $45
COLOR FX Correct Click in Yellow, Peach, Red, Lavender, and Green; $18 each
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COLOR CORRECTORS Eight must-try products to make your skin look perfect in an instant. By: Audrey Anello
Dark under-eye circles, acne discoloration, and sunspots are nearly impossible to avoid as young students in sunny Florida. New techniques and products in the makeup industry are standing out for the way they make these imperfections seemingly disappear. Color correcting may seem difficult, especially with the wrong techniques or colored products, but don’t get defeated! Check out some of DWF’s favorite products to get rid of these frustrating imperfections for all skin tones and concerns. Finding the right color: Specific color correctors must be used for certain imperfections and skin tones. LAVENDER Light skin tones should use lavender, light pink, or light green correctors for best results when color correcting imperfections under foundation. PEACH AND ORANGE Deep skin tones should use peach, orange, or red tones to cancel out any darkness on the skin caused by acne, age spots, or lack of sleep. GREEN AND YELLOW Medium or olive skin tones should use green or yellow tones to balance and even skin tone.
SMASHBOX Color Correcting Stick in Look Less Tired Light; $23
LANCÔME Miracle CC Cushion Color Correcting Primer in Yellow, Green, and Purple; $39.50 each
YVES SAINT LAURENT Face Palette Collector in Gypsy Opale; $60
The GUCCI
TOM FORD
BEAUTY
AMP UP
SPRING
TRENDS Your how-to guide for bringing more drama and flair to S/S ‘18 runways “casual” looks By: Noelle Torrillo
BARE, BRIGHT, AND BOLD
SMUDGED GLITTER LINER
An intense pop of color on a bare face is a consistent trend season after season. Gucci chose neon pink lips and glitter lashes for their girls so why not create looks inspired by both? For the perfect statement lip, try Dior’s Rouge Liquid Lip Stain in any metallic shade that suits you. Feeling glossy? Jouer has you covered. Apply a layer of their Long-Wear Lip Crème Liquid Lipstick over Nars’ Velvet Matte Lip Pencil or Urban Decay’s Vice Lipstick in the shade Big Bang. For shimmery eyes, look no further than MAC’s Extra Dimension Eyeshadows to deliver the shine.
For days when a look a la Tom Ford’s S/S ‘18 runway show is too “simple” for you, dare to take it there with glitter everywhere. Substitute a khol liner pencil for Stila’s Glitter and Glow Liquid Eyeshadow in a pinch. Finish the look with Yves Saint Laurent’s Vinyl Couture Mascara and Tarte’s Tarteist Clay Paint Liner and you’re out the door! If time’s not an issue, dip into Givenchy’s La Palette Eclats Nocturnes with your go to liner brush and wing it out. Complete the look with MAC’s Mineralize Blush in a shade that compliments your skin tone. #classlooks MAC Mineralize Blush; $29
DIOR Rouge Liquid Lip Stain; $37
TARTE Tarteist Clay Paint Liner in Gold; $24
YVES SAINT LAURENT Vinyl Couture Mascara in Gold; $29
JOUER
Long-Wear Lip Creme Liquid Lipstick; $18
GIVENCHY La Palette Eclats Nocturnes; $75
NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil; $27
MAC Extra Dimension Eyshadow; $20
URBAN DECAY Vice Lipstick in the shade Big Bang; $18
STILA Glitter and Glow Liquid Eyeshadow in Molten Midnight and Kitten Karma; $24
STILA Glitter and Glow Liquid Eyeshadow in Smoldering Satin; $24
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DWF MAGAZINE
INSPIRED BY THE WORK OF PHOTOGRAPHER STEVEN KLEIN AND BARBIE’S “PLASTIC & FANTASTIC” FANTASY
BARBIE GIRL Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Model: KAYLA THOMAS Beauty: MEGAN HUBBARD ISSUE 15: FEMME
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Base: URBAN DECAY All-Nigher Foundation ($40); MAYBELLINE Fit Me Concealer ($7); Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder ($38); TOO FACED Sweethearts Perfect Flush Blush in Peach Bellini ($30); BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed Highlighter in Champagne Pop ($38); On the Eyes: MORPHE 35B Palette ($23); PAT MCGRATH LABS Cyber Clear Eye Gloss (sold in kit); URBAN DECAY Perversion Mascara ($24); On the Lips: PAT MCGRATH LABS LIQU ILUSTâ„¢ 007 ASTRAL VINYL GLOSS KIT ($38); Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer ($18)
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The
BEAUTY
MICHAEL KORS S/S ‘18
SPRING BEAUTY MUST-HAVES The products you NEED this Spring plus simple tips for getting perfect applications all season long. By: Heather Carpenter 20
DWF MAGAZINE
The
BEAUTY
LET’S FACE IT 1.
4.
1. GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY LUMINOUS SILK FOUNDATION
5.
This lightweight, liquid foundation delivers a radiant, silky finish. Apply with a foundation brush or a damp beauty blender to buff into the skin.
2. NARS RADIANT CREAMY CONCEALER
Apply a lighter shade under the eyes to brighten and eliminate any dark circles, and use a true skin tone shade to hide any discoloration or blemishes.
3. LAURA MERCIER TRANSLUCENT LOOSE SETTING POWDER
2.
Use either a large powder brush or beauty blender to set the face.
4. FENTY BEAUTY KILLAWATT FREESTYLE HIGHLIGHTER
Swipe on the highpoints of the face: above your eyebrow, over temples, on top of cheekbones, and down the bridge of your nose to highlight.
5. NARS BLUSH IN ORGASM
3.
Complete the look by using an old-time beauty favorite. Apply with a fluffy blush brush on the apples of the cheeks and blend upwards to add a healthy glow to your complexion. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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The
BEAUTY
EYE CAN’T EVEN 2.
1.
4. 1. ABH BROW WIZ
Fill in your brows with light, featherlike strokes to create the appearance of brow hairs in sparse areas. Blend in product with spoolie.
2. ABH SOFT GLAM EYE SHADOW PALETTE
Create a range of more natural to dramatic looks using this warm toned palette to accentuate any springtime look. For an everyday, natural eye look, use shade Tempera all over the lid with Burnt Orange in the crease, using Rustic to blend your crease color towards the brow bone.
3. STILA GLITTER & GLOW LIQUID EYE SHADOW
3.
Add a pop of glitter to any eye look to give it a springtime vibe! Try adding the shade Rose Gold Retro to the inner corner or middle of lid to take any eyeshadow look to the next level
4. KAT VON D TATTOO LINER
Use this felt-tip, waterproof eyeliner pen to create an iconic cat-eye effect by simply pressing down the tip horizontally against the eyelid until your personal preference for the perfect winged eyeliner is achieved.
5. BENEFIT BADGAL BANG! VOLUMIZING MASCARA This volumizing mascara will kick your lashes up. 22
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5.
The
BEAUTY
LIPS ARE SEALED 1.
3.
1. PAT MCGRATH LABS MATTETRANCE LIPSTICK
Creates a perfected matte look without over drying lips, smudging, or fading.
2. GIVENCHY ROUGE INTERDIT SATIN LIPSTICK
This lipstick provides a perfect natural look with a creamy formula in between matte and gloss. Try the color 101 Beige Mousseline for the perfect nude!
4. 5.
3. YVES SAINT LAURENT VINYL CREAM LIP STAIN
Use this product when looking for a lip color that will not budge! This cream lip stain has intense color and shine with 16 shades available.
4. FRESH SUGAR LIP TREATMENT SUNSCREEN SPF 15
2.
If going for a more natural look, try the Sugar Lip Treatment. This balm will protect your lips from sun damage while providing hydration and a slight tint of color as well as a delicious scent.
5. URBAN DECAY 24/7 GLIDE ON LIP PENCIL
Pair this lip pencil with any lip products to accentuate your natural lip shape and add lasting power to any look. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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The
BEAUTY
FEELING BLUE
THE CLASSIC NUDE
As Winter ends, so do certain styles and nail colors. Usually the winter nail is on the darker side - browns, purples, and grays. For Spring, the colors are on the lighter side; darks are out, pastels are in. What’s fun about pastels is that most of them match with anything.
DETAILS AT OSCAR DE LA RENTA
METAL MAYHEM
Hello Spring! This season is full of blooming flowers, bright colors, and sunshine. One of Spring’s most characteristic shades of blue is “Find Me An Oasis” by Essie. No need to stick to only nudes here, though - it is always fun to use every color of the rainbow.
O.P.I.
“Charmmy and Sugar,” $9
CHANEL In the shade Ballerina, $28
SensatioNail “Tangerine Glitter,” $12
DETAILS AT NOVIS
CHANEL
DETAILS AT TEATUM JONES
LOVELY LILACS
Lilacs are always a good go-to look they’re subtle yet grab your attention. This spring, treat your nails to some pastels! 24
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DETAILS AT SACHIN + BABI
THE NEWEST NAILS Bright or light, polished nails are a must-have accessory this Spring By: Alyssa Lamas
“No. 532; Canotier,” $28
SensatioNail
“Silver Seduction,” $12
DEBORAH LIPPMANN “Running on Faith,” $20
DETAILS AT HONOR
The
BEAUTY
DIOR Lip Glow, $34
GLOSSIER Stretch Concealer, $18
GLAM ON THE GO
DIOR Ultra Gloss, $34
By: Alyssa Lamas Imagine this: you’re running late for something, and you don’t know whether you should actually be late to fix yourself up, or sacrifice your looks for the sake of being on time. What if you could still look glam while you’re on the go? There are some beauty products that will make that happen! Putting on all of these top-pick quick products will take a mere five minutes to apply, but will leave you looking all natural and more than presentable - perfect for when you’re in a rush. Concealer is always a good way to brighten up your eyes. A light yet effective concealer is Glossier’s Stretch Concealer — it is also small, making it easy to put in a pouch or a purse. Glossier’s Boy Brow also works wonders — it is a wax formula that fills in the color of your brows while keeping them in place. It also takes literally just a few seconds to apply. A long lasting, not-so-heavy yet noticeable lip is Dior’s Lip Glow GLOSSIER Boy Brow, $16 — you can get the Holographic Glow, or the Matte Glow depending on your preference. The Lip Glow is perfect for adding a little tint to your lips without being too overly noticeable.
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Report BEAUTY BEAUTY The
S/S ‘18 HAIR TRENDS
From Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic take on 60’s threads to Katie Gallagher’s rainy day inspired designs, the 2018 Spring fashion season is officially blooming in full force. While the runways always have a “fresh” feeling this time of year, this season’s collections left us feeling invigorated. By: Lauren Edmonds
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DETAILS AT JASON WU S/S ‘18
LOWKEY LOCKS Whether cinched with a travel inspired road sign at Maison Margiela or long, plastic cylinders at Chanel, the low ponytail has hit the spring runways like never before. Mansur Gavriel added pastel scrunchies to give the ‘do a 90’s feel.
The
BEAUTY
DELPOZO
LELET NY Poppy Petite set of three gold-plated faux pearl hair slides, $250
MAISON MARGIELA DOLCE & GABBANA VERSACE
SIMONE ROCHA
CHANEL
RUNNING WITH SCISSORS Tom Ford, like other designers this season, remixed the pixie cut by letting the hair fall in long, semi-shaggy strands. Prada’s version emphasized a more traditional cut, with choppy bangs to add texture. TOM FORD
BOWS, BARRETT’S, AND BANDS, OH MY! The “Little Black Bows” of last season must have tied together some loose strings, because the impressive display of hair accessories across shows came only second to the clothes themselves. Paired with a “Queen of Hearts” inspired ensemble at Dolce & Gabbana’s show, the pure white headband is what pulls the outfit together.
JUST ADD WATER Reminiscent of the gelled back manes in Fall ‘17 shows like Moncler Gamme Rogue and Giambattista Valli, designers have amped up the ante this Spring with completely washed out tresses. Alexander McQueen’s version is particularly notable, as he moves away from the slicked back prototype and intentionally structures pieces across the model’s faces.
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
SACAI
JASON WU
SUNS OUT, BUNS OUT Twisted into a leaning topknot for Cushnie et Ochs collection, buns this spring are used in extremes. Victoria Beckham’s models showcased more demure low buns, illustrating the intermingling of power and delicacy within femininity. PHILIPP PLEIN
GUCCI Crystal-embellished resin hair slide, $290
PLAYFUL PLAITS Whimsical, wispy, and sharp, the braids this season have taken a life of their own and made major appearances in designers’ shows. Adriana Lima strutted with a gothic, Rapunzel-esque braid on Phillipp Plein’s star-studded runway. In contrast, Carmen Marc Valvo’s models donned smaller, lighter braids to create a lighter feel. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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PAT McGRATH X JOHN GALLIANO
REIMAGINED
PIERROT
Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Model: ALEXA CARTER Beauty: NOELLE TORRILLO ISSUE 15: FEMME
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Base: MILK MAKEUP Blur Liquid Matte Foundation in Ivory ($40); TARTE Shape Tape Contour Concealer ($27); DERMABLEND Loose Setting Powder ($27); TOO FACED Sweethearts Perfect Flush Blush in Something About Berry and Peach Bellini ($30, each) On the Eyes: PAT MCGRATH LABS MTHRSHP Subversive La Vie En Rose Eyeshadow Palette ($55); PAT MCGRATH LABS MTHRSHP II Eyeshadow Palette Sublime ($125); PAT MCGRATH LABS METALMORPHOSIS 005 in Gold ($60); & Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper ($20); URBAN DECAY Perversion Mascara ($24) On the Lips: URBAN DECAY Revolution Lip Gloss in Brickhouse ($22); PAT MCGRATH LABS METALMORPHOSIS 005 in Gold ($60)
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The
BEAUTY
FIND YOUR
PERFECT PERFUME
Every girl should have her very own trademark scent. Something that her friends can identify from across the room or a special someone can sense from a mile away. Marilyn Monroe obsessed over Chanel No. 5, Charlize Theron embodies J’Adore by Dior, but which one’s yours? Check out a DWF approved fragrance list below to find your signature scent! By: Audrey Anello
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DWF MAGAZINE
The SPICY SCENTS
Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2.5 oz. $155), Sephora; Tom
BEAUTY
Tom Ford Black Orchid (3.4 oz. $140), Sephora
Ford Black Orchid (3.4 oz. $140), Sephora; Givenchy Ysatis (1.7 oz. $79), Nordstrom
Givenchy Ysatis (1.7 oz. $79), Nordstrom
Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2.5 oz. $155), Sephora
Chloé eau de Parfum (1.7 oz. $105 Nordstrom;
FLORAL SCENTS Chanel No. 5 (6.8 oz. $215), Nordstrom
Docle & Gabbana Dolce Eau De Parfum (2.5 oz. $117), Nordstrom
Jo Malone Grapefruit Cologne (3.4 oz. $135), Sephora; Chloé eau de Parfum (1.7 oz. $105) Nordstrom; Chanel No. 5 (6.8 oz. $215), Nordstrom
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Christian Dior Dune (3.4 oz. $102), Sephora Jo Malone Grapefruit Cologne (3.4 oz. $135), Sephora
Gucci Envy Me (3.3 oz. $100), Sephora
Christian Dior Dune (3.4 oz. $102), Sephora; Docle & Gabbana Dolce Eau De Parfum (2.5 oz. $117), Nordstrom; Gucci Envy Me (3.3 oz. $100), Sephora
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SPRING/ SUMMER 2018
DWF’s top picks for this season’s most noteworthy trends straight from the runways. From bold to pastels, and everything in-between, this season certainly did not disappoint. By: Gillian Marton
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SEE THROUGH No. 1
Sheer fabrics were prevalent amongst runways, contributing sexy yet subtle energy to multiple shows. These fabrics are perfect for spring as they are lightweight and flowy, while remaining fashion-forward. Transparent clothing was a recurring yet versatile theme as various patterns adorned sheer fabrics. Designers who implemented this trend on the runway include Christopher Kane, Fendi and Helmut Lang
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PASTEL BOMBSHELL No. 2
This season’s runway was anything but dull as pastels were implemented by many different designers. Adding a colorful pop, pastels were used to make a rather plain ensemble appear to be more fresh and youthful, paralleling characteristics of spring-time. Brands that have utilized pastels this season include Preen, Joseph and Acne Studios.
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CASUAL FRIDAY No. 3
While utility jackets are typically considered as streetwear, the casual outerwear was used to compliment various looks on the runway this season. Edgy yet wearable, the utility jacket can be utilized as a statement piece or simply as an accessory. Tods, Sportmax and Gabriele Colangelo incorporated utility jackets into their latest collections.
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ANORAK ATTACK No. 4
Typically worn out of convenience, anoraks are now being showcased on runways as a fashion statement. Constructed in different shapes, sizes and colors, many different selections of anoraks are provided by designers. While some serve as sporty street style, others are designed for high fashion purposes. Designers such as Valentino, Tods and Isabel Marant have displayed the new trend on their runways this past season. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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BOLD A HOLD HOLD BOLD TAKES TAKES A No. 5
Designers are making use of saturated colors, contributing bold shades to the runway. Making a statement, these pigments are eye-catching and heavily deviate from the neutral shades that dominated the fall runway. While multiple designers incorporated this trend on their runways, those such as Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, and Calvin Klein have executed this style flawlessly, to name a few.
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SHINE BRIGHT No. 6
The looks included in this season quite literally shined as sequins made multiple appearances on the runway. Varying in color, these sparkling accents dress up any look, whether it may be a runway ensemble or casual street style. Models showcase this trend in the form of dresses, skirts and outerwear, as seen in the Gucci, Halpern and Marc Jacobs collections.
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CHECK MATE No. 7
Checkered patterns, displayed in a range of different colors from beige to bright reds, influenced many designs this season. In some looks, the checkered pattern only appeared in one component of the ensemble, serving as an accessory. However, in others, the pattern embodied the entire outfit. In some runway shows, such as Balenciaga, multiple colors and shapes of checkered print were used in the same look. Other brands who utilized this trend include A.W.A.K.E and Sonia Rykiel.
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MIXING UP THE RUNWAY No. 8
Mixed prints have been dominating the runway this season. When it comes to pairing prints, no pattern is off-limits. From stripes to polka dots, various designs are being put together to achieve versatile yet wearable looks. Designers such as Burberry, Emporio Armani and Mary Katrantzou showcased this trend on the runway this season, displaying these thought-provoking looks. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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REVAMPING RUFFLES No. 9
Ruffles, a classic design element, contributed to the timeless looks that appeared on the runways. Adding a feminine touch to a wide variety of looks, ruffles foster elegance and grace amongst collections. As seen in shows of designers such as Simone Rocha, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Erdem, ruffles are an enduring trend.
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FRINGE BINGE No. 10
Fringe is a versatile element that may contribute an edgy, western, or feminine component to any look. On this season’s runway, fringe was used by designers as an accessory, building onto established pieces, adding fluidity. While neutral colored fringe was used in shows such as Celine and Balmain, bright fringe was utilized in the Acne Studio fashion show, displaying lime green fringe, attached to the bottom of matching-colored pants.
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DOLCE & GABBANA By: Katherine Higgins
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t’s safe to say that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana - both Italian born men - have been inspired by fashion since birth. Dolce knew at an early age that working in the retail industry was the path for him thanks to his family’s clothing business that he worked for starting early in his childhood. Gabbana was born and raised in one of the few fashion capitals of the world, Milan. He soon came to realize he was a fan of graphics, which led him directly to fashion, as well as running into Domenico Dolce. The brand they were about to create would change the world of fashion forever. The pair met in 1980 as assistant designers and were ready for their first Milan Fashion Week runway show only five years later, debuting their brand Dolce & Gabbana. Their first ever collection was named “Real Women,” basing the idea off of the fact that the models they used to walk the runway were just friends of theirs because they did not have the money to pay for real models. It was a simple and somewhat unfinished collection, and the sales did not reflect the work, time, and money the duo put into it. After their debut, they were discouraged and ready to quit, coming close to canceling plans to start a collection for the following season. Dolce would not allow it, and his family offered help to them as they slowly made their impact in the world. Only a year later they created their second collection and opened a personal Dolce & Gabbana brick and mortar store It didn’t take long for the two to become noticed as fashion influencers. They began making separate lines of clothing including knitwear in 1987, and then lingerie and bathing suit lines two years later. They introduced new ways to alter clothing with snaps, buttons, and Velcro. They became new and different having all the potential to make a serious impact. Their first notable runway show was actually their fourth collection, which debuted in 1991. Italian fashion designers and brands began to notice the culture that was coming through in their clothing. The looks and styles had a touch of Sicilian roots, inspired by Dolce’s hometown. One of the most famous dresses ever made by the pair, the Sicilian Dress, was first showcased in their fourth collection. The intricate style and make of the dress has been described as “the essence of Dolce & Gabbana, the brand’s sartorial touchstone.” It is a shape that has become a focal point in the creation of a dress. The duo became known as the founders of a new Mediterranean style when they were also inspired by the art of film. A 1940’s Italian film called The Leopard inspired multiple collections of theirs and when mixed with the culture and color of Italy, you get a brand. This original aesthetic has carried and transformed into the Dolce & Gabbana brand that we are inspired by and we admire today. Once exportations came in the United States, the ball started rolling. In 1990, they founded their own showroom and their brand was officially born into
the high-end fashion scene. They produced their first menswear collection and created a fragrance that was awarded the best male perfume in 1996. The common theme of film inspired pieces in their collection was soon noticed and then utilized. Dolce & Gabbana started making movie costumes for artistic films like Romeo and Juliet and The Star Maker. Their art was admired by the fashion and film crowds, and the duo brand name became one of the biggest in the fashion industry. As years have gone by and times have changed, the brand has transformed. One aspect that remains true in each collection is the strong Italian realist woman. The brand has always carried this sense of timelessness. The pieces and inspiration are somehow so modern while the shapes remain in the past. The designers once explained that, “We want to use the past to project it into the future.” That is where the true genius is hidden, behind the old, classic inspiration. The woman they create is one who is confident and conservative, but also remaining sexy and tasteful. Their use of corset dresses in 1994 showed their woman’s style as modestly sexy and simple, but still powerful. They use these shapes and styles today, but the inspirations have shifted to what is still current from the past and what is current today. This Spring 2018 ready-to-wear line was inspired by the Queen of Hearts, a woman of royalty and a woman of power. A feature that the Dolce & Gabbana brand always accomplishes is the variety. Not only in each season, but in each look, and in each model. There is a new freshness, nothing is repeated or seen twice and it has remained that way for more than thirty years. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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LA DOLCE VITA Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA & NOELLE TORRILLO
Models: SOPHIA BALLESTEROS, SIERRA BRAVE, & ARIEL ENGEL Beauty & Hair: MEGAN HUBBARD & NOELLE TORRILLO Stylists: MARIEL BATTLE, SYDNEY HOWARD, & DELANEY WILLIAMS
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Bra (H&M, Editor’s Own) Satin Flare Leg Pants (Forever 21, Model’s Own) Headband (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklace & Ring (Editor’s Own) THIS PAGE: Scalloped Lace Bandeau ($9, Forever 21) Earrings (Editor’s Own)
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Velvet and Lace Crop Cami ($15, Forever 21) Tiered Ruffle Tulle Skirt ($45, Forever 21) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklaces (Editor’s Own)
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Lace Trim Tank Top (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklaces (Editor’s Own)
Lace Body Suit (Forever 21) Tiered Tulle Skirt ($45, Forever 21) Headband (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklaces (Editor’s Own) Shoes (Saint Laurent, Editor’s Own)
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Lace Dress (Forever 21) Headband (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklaces (Editor’s Own)
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Lace Top (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklaces (Editor’s Own)
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Ruffled Mesh Knit Mermaid Dress ($68, Forever 21) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Necklace (Editor’s Own)
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Sheer Mesh Swiss Dot Plus Sign Top ($48, Forever 21) Ruffle Lace Skirt ($45, Forever 21) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Headband (Editor’s Own)
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From the minuscule to the elaborate, sunglasses pulled looks together and served as statement pieces on this season’s runways. BY: JESSICA COLEGROVE
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COOL CATS The extreme cat-eye trend has been around for years, but really made a groundbreaking appearance this season. Designers strayed from subtlety when showing off the much-loved trend. ROUND AND RETRO From tiny to oversized, circular sunglasses turned heads on the runways. FUNKY FRAMES Between the elaborate shapes and the bejeweled frames, designers went all out this season in creating jaw-dropping looks. LESS IS MORE Not all sunglasses were designed purely for protection from the sun. This season, the teeny-tiny trend featuring micro shades resulted in big statements.
(1) TOM FORD Samantha 55mm Sunglasses in Black, $445, Nordstrom; (2) Fendi 54mm Metal Tipped Cat Eye Sunglasses in Green, $490, Nordstrom; (3) Gucci 47mm Round sunglasses in Ecru, $540, Gucci; (4) Gucci 56mm Round Mirrored Aviator Sunglasses in Black, $415, Nordstrom; (5) Anna-Karin Karlsson, 3D Glitter Butterfly Sunglasses in Multicolored, $865, Nordstrom; (6) Anna-Karin Karlsson, Tears of the Moon Cat-Eye Sunglasses in Pearl, $3,450 Neiman Marcus; (7) Prada Metal Cat-Eye Sunglasses in Black, $470, Neiman Marcus; (8) Saint Laurent Jerry 53mm Sunglasses, $1,320, Nordstrom.
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(1) Leather belt with pearl Double G buckle, $450; (2) Chain belt with crystal Double G buckle, $950; (3) Leather belt with Double G buckle, $350; (4) GG Blooms belt, $400; (5) Leather belt with Double G and crystals, $550; (6) Chain belt with crystal Double G buckle, $950
The interlocking double-G Gucci belt is undeniably both blogger’s and style guru’s favorite accessory right now. Surprisingly, this design launched in 1964 with neutral shades of black, brown, and red. Now, 54 years later, it is nearly impossible to find any originals in stock thanks to Alessandro Michele. 2015 was the year of Alessandro Michele’s debut in the Gucci fashion house, which happened to be the year this belt took off. The editor of Sunday Times Style, Pandora Sykes, says “Alessandro knows the value of salability, which Gucci coffers needed badly. Look at the logo belts, cheap enough for someone who doesn’t have the budget for a Gucci coat to buy into the brand and clearly show that they are wearing Gucci.” Gucci perfectly mixed public relations with celebrity endorsement to make the double- G logo a street style must have. The revival of the original Gucci belt came with higher demand and lead to new spring designs. In 2016 the belt with pink, light blue, and oatmeal colored leather along with pearl embellished G’s were released. Fashion enthusiasts have been wearing all variations of the belt with a t-shirt and sneakers on the streets, or cinched around a dress for a chic look. All forms of the belt can be matched with such a wide range of looks that is makes it a must have accessory for every Gucci brand lover; GQ even called Gucci “the hottest label on earth.” Michele has truly revived Gucci, starting with this vintage accessory.
BY: DELANEY WILLIAMS
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SHOES This season’s hottest shoe trends straight from the S/S ‘18 runways! BY: NATALIA RAMIREZ
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Gucci Mila 55mm Iridescent Crystal Pump, $1,890, Neiman Marcus; THIS PAGE: Terry Richardson for Valentino (Valentino Rockstud Camouflage Kitten Heel Pumps)
WESTERN REVIVAL: Cowboy boots made their way from the wild wild West onto the runway. Western inspired boots are the perfect way to kick off the new year sensibly and in style. Boots will help you get through the colder Spring months and the western details seamlessly transition into Summer festival season. Anna Sui went all in with the western theme while Maison Margiela decided to remix the western look with ankle straps and gold. SOCK IT TO YA: Whether you agree or disagree with the socks and sandals debate, it’s clear that designers are 100% in favor of the trend. Socks have been paired with almost every shoe style this season. Depending on your taste, you could pair a sheer set of ankle socks with strappy sandals a la Emporio Armani for a feminine look, black socks with colorful heels as shown at Erdem for a relaxed look, or mismatched socks
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with your shoes, for a fun look. The possibilities are endless! TOTALLY EXPOSED: We have now seen through it all. The see-through trend was clearly a favorite at Chanel, along with other brands like Alexander Wang and Tibi following suit. Depending on how much you want to show off, you can select shoes with a cool, clear heel or you can fully embrace the trend with entirely see-through boots as shown at Balmain. PURRFECT HEEL: If you think that stilettos are too much for the hot Summer months and flip-flops or sandals are too casual, then we have found your happy medium. Swap the sky-high stilettos for something closer to ground level: kitten heels. No need to worry, the so-called “grandma heel” has gotten a major makeover in recent years. This Spring, expect kitten heels in a variety of colors, textures, prints, and embellishments such as those seen at Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana’s runway shows. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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JEWELRY This season, jewelry was not limited in quantities or regions on the runways. From hair jewels to stackable everything, check out DWF’s picks for top S/S ‘18 jewelry trends. BY: TAYLOR MITNICK
(1) Saint Laurent Marrakech Motif Bracelet in Silver-Toned Brass, $595 , Nordstrom; (2) Saint Laurent Marrakech Cuff Bracelet in Silver-Toned Tin and Black Agate, $995; (3) Saint Laurent Marrakech Bell Bracelet in Tin and Silver-Toned Brass, $895; (4) Saint Laurent Marrakech Necklace with Silver-Toned Brass Tassels and Gemstones, $2,295; (5) Saint Laurent Monogram Thin Tie Necklace in Gold Vermeil, $495; (6) Saint Laurent Monogram Mini Tassel Necklace in Silver Brass, $495; (7) Saint Laurent Marrakech Perle Pendant on Chain in Silver-Toned Tin, $395; (8) Givenchy Dagger Gold-Tone, Crystal, and Pearl Necklace, $545; (9) Saint Laurent Charms Heart Necklace in Silver-Toned Brass, $395
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STACK IT UP:
Layered necklaces and bracelets were all over the runways for Spring 2018. Shows such as Anna Sui, ChloĂŠ, Dior, DWF, Saint Laurent, Gucci, Chanel, and Moschino implemented this trend, to name a few. Whether you want to go for the chunky look as seen at Chanel or dainty like Anna Sui showed, layering jewelry gives your look an elevated coolness.
CHAINED UP: If you think Spring fashion is limited to blooming bouquets and pastels, think again. Many brands brought a badass edge with chains, chiefly Givenchy, Versace, Giambattista Valli, Alexander Wang. Mix these pieces with any outfit to bring an instant grit to your soft Spring ensemble.
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(10) Versace Medusa Gold-Tone Hair Slide, $150; (11) Simone Rocha Rhinestone and Crystal Hair Slide, $150; (12) Versace Medusa Gold Tribute Hair Slide, $250
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Jewelry is not limited to your hands, ears, and neck only; head jewelry was seen in Dolce & Gabbana, Simone Rocha, Versace, and Jill Stuart’s Spring shows. More feminine pieces used brilliant gems and more edgy pieces stuck to metal hardware. Using head jewelry is a unique way to dress up any outfit.
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IT’S IN THE BAG BY: NOELLE TORRILLO
WHITE BAGS were all over the runways this season. If your style is monochromatic or modern minimalistic, wearing a white bag is a must to complete your look. Chanel, Chloé, and Maison Margiela were a few designers to showcase these bags on their runways. WHIMSICAL BAGS added a fun element to the runways this season. Bright colored characters and child-like designs adorned the covers and flaps of bags by Jeremy Scott, Moschino, and Prada. BELT BAGS were a new addition to the runways
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this season. Unlike fanny packs, these bags have a coin purse or pouch that’s attached to, but separated from the belt. They’re smaller, more versatile, and easier to style with any look. These convenient, little bags were seen on the runways of Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace. TRANSPARENT AND PVC items were a big trend this season - from garments to shoes to handbags. Clear bags complemented both casual and chic designs at CÉLINE and Chanel, providing a modern touch to their presentations.
(1) Chanel; (2) Maison Margiela; (3) Jeremy Scott; (4) Moschino; (5) Versace; (6) Salvatore Ferragamo; (7) Chanel; (8) Celine; (9) Chanel
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THE #1 MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY OF THE SEASON Louis Vuitton Archlight Sneakers, $1,090
IN THE KNOW WHAT’S GOING ON IN FASHION THIS SEASON?
Raf Simons’ Spring/ Summer 2018 collection for Calvin Klein drew inspiration from classic American horror movies like, The Shinning and Carrie. Simons’ collection reflects the sinister real-world events that are currently going on in America.
Social Media influencers are becoming fashion’s “it” girls. They get dressed by designers, get the best seats at shows, and get 5-star accommodations when traveling in exchange for advertising the brand. Wondering why influencer’s have accumulated so much power? Danielle Bernstein explains, “It’s really just a way to make fashion and fashion week obtainable to the masses.”
COLOR PALETTE OF THE SEASON
Hubert de Givenchy, the founder of French fashion house Givenchy, passed away on March 10, 2018. Fascinated by clothes, Givenchy was able to pursue fashion at age 17. Since then, the icon created incredibly elegant and sophisticated clothing, including the little black dress.
AT A GLANCE YOUR ONE STOP GUIDE FOR ALL THINGS S/S ‘18 BY: NATALIA RAMIREZ
SPRING CLEAN YOUR CLOSET WITH THESE REFRESHING SPRING FAVORITES!
LILAC
PALE SKY BLUE
DANDELION
BRIGHT RED
GREENERY
MOCHA
10 FOR 10
THE BEST TRENDS & SHOWS THIS SEASON CÉLINE, Pastels; Tom Ford, Pastels; Fendi, Sheer; Chanel, Pastels, Alexander McQueen, Ruffles; Rochas, Bold; Balmain, Ruffles; Moschino, Bold; Givenchy, Bold; Versace, Bold/Mixed Print
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Women’s Pink Lurex Blouse; Spring ‘17 Look #8
HOUSE OF GUCCI By: Gillian Marton
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ucci, a luxury empire characterized by the finest of leather goods and iconic fashion trends, was founded by Guccio Gucci, who was inspired by luxury luggage while working in a hotel located in Paris. After confiding in H.J. Cave & Sons, a leather luxury goods manufacturer, he opened his first store in Florence, where he sold fine leather goods. With the support of his sons, he established stores in various locations such as Milan and Rome, carrying handbags, shoes, loafers and clothing, emblazoned with a distinct pattern. Meanwhile, World War II ensued, and as a result, the League of Nations Placed an embargo on Italy, forcing Gucci to find alternatives to leather. During this time, he used cotton canvas to construct his products, accompanied by his signature logo; a double G symbol, accompanied by green and red bands. Expanding into the U.S, Gucci and his sons originally opened offices in New York City. At this point, Gucci had established his brand, making him a household name. Admired starlets adorned themselves in his products, furthering the brand’s worldwide success. As the company progressed, the materials used to produce the iconic commodities such as calf, pigskin, and bamboos became synonymous with the brand itself. In addition, Gucci established signature patterns including that
dresses and modern belts, in which celebrities flocked to sport the trend. In 1999, the company released the upgraded “Jackie” bag, eventually serving as a Gucci staple. The house continued to recruit talented designers; Frida Giannini, former handbag designer for Fendi, accompanied the accessory department of the brand, offering modernized elements to iconic Gucci pieces. When Pinault Printemps-Redoute, an international luxury group, owned the majority of the Gucci Group stock, Domenico De Sole and Tom Ford resigned. Upon the end of this era, John Ray became the Creative Director of Menswear, Alessandra Facchinetti was appointed as the Creative Director of Womenswear and Frida Giannini was promoted to Creative Director for the entire empire. Now maintaining a remarkably talented team, the brand experienced continued success as fragrances were first distributed worldwide in 2006, followed by Gucci’s first television campaign in 2007. Two years later, Mark Lee, Gucci brand chief, was replaced by Patrizio di Marco, serving as the new President and CEO of the company. It was at this time that Gucci reached a number of milestones - such as, opening a pop-up-shop in New York, venturing into the Indian retail market, and updating previous staple products. In 2014, Giannini and Patrizio di Marco stepped
“...THE FUNDAMENTALS OF THE LUXURY BRAND STILL PREVAIL, AS THE EMPIRE REMAINS A SOURCE OF FINE GOODS AND ADMIRABLE FASHIONS.”
of butterflies and florals, as well as the double-G logo. While the brand prospered, tensions amongst the family brought the company to a downfall. After Gucci’s death in 1953, his grandson, Maurizio Gucci, took over the company. During this time period, multiple Gucci stores opened in New York, dedicated to clothing, luggage, accessories, bags and shoes. The empire also reached other milestones such as establishing a store in Tokyo and launching its first fragrance in 1975. Investcorp, a global manager of alternative investment products based in Bahrain, purchased half of Gucci’s shares, also the time in which Dawn Mellow, who served as the president of Bergdorf Goodman, stepped in to revive the brand. In an attempt to further improve the empire, she hired Tom Ford as a designer, in which he later became the Creative Director in 1994. Ford’s first collection as Creative Director was presented as ready-to-wear fashion, making Gucci a household name once again. While many different brands and designers had been stealing Gucci’s iconic design elements, CEO Domenico De Sole began to establish licenses, emphasizing the elite nature of Gucci. Successfully reinventing the brand, Ford brought wild success to Gucci. In 1996, he released a collection centered around evening glamour, em bodied by white cutout jersey
down from their positions and Marco Bizzarri, previous president and CEO of Stella McCartney and Bottega Veneta, became the CEO and President of Gucci. Previously a designer for Fendi, Italian fashion designer Alessandro Michele became the Creative Director of the Gucci brand in 2015. In 2002, Tom Ford had contacted him, hiring Michele at Gucci’s London-based design office, where he eventually earned the titles of Leather Goods Design Director and Associate to Creative Director. In 2014, he was promoted to Creative Director of Richard Ginori, a brand owned by Gucci, in which he offered new and successful designs. Michele’s first runway show as Creative Director for the fall/winter collection in 2015 displayed inventive looks and paved a new course for the fashion house as a whole. After just three years of holding this position, sales have risen almost 80%. Still serving as Creative Director, Michele continues to deliver innovative runway shows while still maintaining the original roots of Gucci. While the house of Gucci has undergone many transformations, the fundamentals of the luxury brand still prevail as the empire remains a source of fine goods and admirable fashions. As the company continues to progress, the work of Alessandro Michele as well as other talented designers provides a promising and everlasting future for Gucci. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Models: HEATHER CARPENTER, MAKAIRA FLANIGAN, & ALYSSA LAMAS Beauty & Hair: MEGAN HUBBARD, PAOLA OTHON, & ALEXIS POULOS Stylist: MARIEL BATTLE Production Assistants: CHELSEA BECKTON, AUDREY MOONEY, & TARA WILSON
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Sweater (Editor’s Own) Scarf (Victoria Beckham) Skirt (Forever 21) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Socks (Editor’s Own) Heels (H&M)
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Top (Nasty Gal) Jeans (Top Shop) Socks (H&M) Necklace (Editor’s Own) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Belt (Model’s Own) Sandals (H&M)
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Denim Jacket (Top Shop) Scarf (Victoria Beckham) Skirt (Forever 21) Socks (H&M) Earrings (Editor’s Own) Bag (Aldo) Sandals (H&M)
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Dress (Nasty Gal) Socks (Editor’s Own) Necklace (Editor’s Own) Sunglasses (Editor’s Own) Belt (Top Shop) Bag (Aldo) Heels (H&M)
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Jacket (Editor’s Own) Shirt (H&M) Scarf (Victoria Beckham) Belt (Top Shop) Bag (Aldo) Jeans (Top Shop) Socks (H&M) Heels (H&M)
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ANTHONY VACCARELLO FOR
SAINT PLAURENT ARIS Fall ‘17 will be Anthony Vaccarello’s fourth season as Creative Director for the distinguished Saint Laurent Paris brand. Keeping a deep admiration of history along with a commitment to modernity, Vaccarello has been praised for his commitment to the house’s legacy. Vaccarello created his own label in 2010 and left it behind when taking on the position at Saint Laurent. Hints of his personal style can be seen in his collections. Mixing sharp, strong silhouettes with hints of femininity achieves the blithe disposition that Saint Laurent is known for. A few weeks before the world saw his Fall 2018 show, Vaccarello explained his process; “I think of everything Saint Laurent when I begin a collection, but I don’t set out to make a Saint Laurent collection.” Vaccarello has solidified his legacy and has made Saint Laurent the go-to label for the young and daring. BY: TAYLOR MITNICK
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SPRING ‘17 80’S EDGE For Vaccarello’s debut as Saint Laurent’s Creative Director, 80s rock-and-roll was a pronounced influence on his collection. Leather, broad shoulders and silver hardware buckles were seen throughout. Denim pants were paired with these leather tops for an effortless outfit that still has tons of edge. Many pieces had a plunging neckline, exposing model’s décolletage for a touch of femininity. Model’s hair was either permed or given an extreme side part. Gold was seen in draped dresses, embellished blouses and retro brooches. These accents brought a more glamorous feel to the predominantly hard-core collection. Rhinestones in the form of extravagant chandelier earrings and “YSL” bedazzled tattoos complimented these looks. 104
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FALL ‘17 SHABBY CHIC
Fall 2017 kept consist with Vaccarello’s previous collection. Pieces were made from shiny black and brown leather. Shoulders were even more defined with large shearling accents peeking out from arm-length gloves. Heavy ruching that was used in dresses and wide-legged boots gave a much more relaxed look. Large ruffles protruded from skirts and dresses. Revealing slits, lace detailing and floral accents brought the hint of femininity that Saint Laurent always manages to sneak into their clothing. Vaccarello finished this collection off with a victory lap of models dressed in sequined dresses and pantsuits- perfect for a night out in Paris. 106
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SPRING ‘18 BOHEMIAN GLAMOUR
Vaccarello showed spectators something very new for Spring 2018. Bohemian influences appeared in many looks, all of which lightened things up from the traditionally hard-edge brand. Flowy blouses, soft crocheted tops and fun feather accents came across the stage. Models were fresh-faced and had their hair pulled back into low buns. Aztec-inspired earrings, metal ear cuffs and bolo ties were the accessories of choice. Vaccarello’s signature 80s-glam was not lost. Shiny multi-colored fabric made into shorts and mini-dresses brought fun feel to the collection that brings the glamour. In a press interview he said, “That girl of Saint Laurent—she wants to have fun, she’s not depressed. She wants to enjoy life!” Large, billowy tops and dresses were a new silhouette from Vaccarello that gave a modern twist to his traditionally retro-style. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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FALL ‘18 L AY E R E D L E AT H E R
Leather and lace didn’t fail to make another appearance in Saint Laurent’s Fall 2018 collection. Headgear, from wide-brimmed felt hats to sleek silk head wraps were a prominent accessory in this collection. Layering was a big trend in many looks. Sheer blouses peaked out from under velvet blazers and fur coats topped off with scarves draped across model’s necks. Vaccarello’s signature low-neck, broad-shoulder mini dress was seen throughout in many different prints from black and silver sequence zebra to color-contrasting florals. Boots were the shoe of choice in either a fur-trimmed slouchy style or a black patent platform. 108
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SAINTS S. LAURENT Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Models: YU HA, ASHLI IVESTER, & KAYLA THOMAS Beauty & Hair: MEGAN HUBBARD, PAOLA OTHON, ALEXIS POULOS, & KATIE ROMBEIRO Stylists: ANDREA ALESSANDRINI, ADI COHEN, ARIEL ENGEL, ALLY MOTUSH, DELANEY WILLIAMS, YANFEI YANG Production Assistant: TARA WILSON
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VERSACE:
THEN & NOW After the untimely death of iconic designer Gianni Versace, his younger sister, Donatella, stepped up and transformed the Italian brand into a multimillIon dollar company fueled by music, social media, and the empowering women of our past and present.
P
BY: ISABELA FRAIZ
ower, strength and beauty. These are the three words that are meant to be portrayed by the Medusa logo, representative of Versace. “Whoever falls in love with Medusa can’t flee from her” was the reasoning behind Gianni Versace’s decision of picking the mythological muse as the emblem for his brand, according to his sister Donatella. He was passionate about ancient Greek history and fascinated by its colors and patterns, having grown up surrounded by a landscape that was dominated by such Greek heritage. However, Gianni’s inspiration is not only rooted in ancient Greek times. Fast-forward several decades and a few centuries later, to exactly the 1950’s in southern Italy, where he saw his mother working as a dressmaker and later assisted her in her sewing business. This was his first glimpse at the fashion industry that he would become so passionate about and the commencement of his career as one of the most influential designers of all time. At the same time, his little sister Donatella strutted her mother’s designs being the best-dressed little girl in the city of Reggio Calabria. Little did she know, these were her first steps towards becoming a fashion magnate and the beginning of what would result in a life dedicated to one of the most luxurious fashion brands that have ever existed. Gianni stated that designing was something that just came to him, without the need to move or
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search for it. In spite of this, he moved to Milan and participated in the creation of several fashion collections with other designers. Aside from his innate talent for design, what really drove him to create the image that Versace portrays was his ability to present art through fashion in a way that no other brand did. ‘’He was the first to realize the value of the celebrity in the front row, and the value of the supermodel, and put fashion on an international media platform,’’ said Anna Wintour, Vogue Editor-in-Chief and close friend of his. He opened his first boutique in Milan and immediately became a fashion sensation worldwide. His collections featured vivid colors, statement prints, and sexy, flattering cuts. His aesthetic aimed to “combine luxurious classicism with overt sexuality” and he did so tastefully. Among Gianni Versace’s most iconic collections were his Spring/Summer 1991 pret a porter and Fall 1991 collections. The latter solidified the supermodel moment and turned it into a sensation, as Gianni had Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington arm-in-arm strut down the runway while mouthing the lyrics to George Michaels “Freedom.” The former, a scheme breaker, was the vivid representation of pop art meets chic, and an impeccable blend of Mediterranean accents and sophistication. Along his most groundbreaking collections comes an unprecedented innovation, the super light chainmail referred to as “Oroton.”
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The use of this material in Gianni Versace’s dresses was as much a trademark as the brand itself, and became a signature element in many future collections. Meanwhile, his younger sister, Donatella, was gifted the spin-off brand Versus, and worked as Vice President of Versace, not knowing she would later be named Artistic Director after Gianni’s tragic and untimely death. For a while, sorrow took over both the Versace family as well as the brand following Gianni’s ‘97 murder, but Donatella knew her brother’s legacy was meant to live forever and steadfastly took the responsibility of continuing to build his empire. Ever since, Versace and all of its branches have continued to evolve having the immortalized vision of Gianni hand-in-hand with Donatella’s. In 2009, Versus was reinvented with the arrival of Christopher Kane as designer. The Italian brands’ haute couture line, Atelier Versace, was also reinvigorated, bringing to the scene the most lavish fabrics and ostentatious designs all dressed in empowered femininity. Versace has been shooting for the stars since its very beginning, and, ironically enough the brand itself fabricated the biggest stars in the fashion industry. From Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell, to Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber, Versace has managed to build a platform for these models to empower and inspire women from all over the world. Strong femininity, bold elegance, and ruthless style are a few of the ideals that both Gianni and Donatella have always kept in the front row of their fashion shows. When Gianni first started the brand, he claimed that his muse and biggest source of inspiration was his sister Donatella. Now, Donatella claims that the sources for her inspiration are strong women from all over the 136
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world. This is one of the key qualities that make Versace so unique: its universality. More than a clothing line, it is a lifestyle trendsetter and an ambassador of individuality, strength, and fearlessness. However, Donatella has demonstrated that the brand’s timeless ideals have remained the same throughout the years. Milan Fashion week was the witness to one of the Italian house’s most spectacular collections of all time, Spring/Sum-
mer 2018. As a tribute to Gianni, Donatella portrayed his signature designs in a contemporary manner. Its classic roman golden patterns, marine print, Mediterranean colors, throwback to pop art, and last but not least, the showcasing of the famous chainmail “Oroton” in golden dresses worn by the original supermodels. Donatella managed to effortlessly blend classicism and modernism and introduce a fabulous collection,
drenched in Versace’s essence of femininity and boldness. The Versace Empire colorized the fashion industry and acted as a pioneer in former fashion times. It has continued to revolutionize the business and stay on top of the game due to its unstoppable grind and unique vision, among other incomparable qualities. The brand has managed to show that Gianni’s legacy lives on and will live on forever, and that monotony is not an option.
While grounded on traditional ideas, Donatella’s vision has never ceased to refresh and reinvigorate, and be able to produce absolutely state-of-the-art fashion innovations. Versus Versace is notable for its modern creations and contemporary tempo, whereas Versace’s main collection never fails to portray the brand’s foundation principles – power, strength, and boldness. “I am not interested in the past, except as the road to the
future” said Gianni once, which juxtaposes to Donatella quoting “It’s very important for a brand to have an identity through the years, but it’s very important as well to evolve because times change so fast.” This mindset is what has given Versace its identity. While as brother and sister Gianni and Donatella might have had their differences, they shared one same passion: Versace, one of the most iconic design houses in fashion history. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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AT H E NA
Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Models: PARKER SLOAN LEIRO & PAVEL SANKOVICH Beauty: MEGAN HUBBARD Stylist: ADI COHEN Production Assistants: CAROLINA VALDIVIA, & TARA WILSON
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THE ORIGINAL FAB FIVE: NAOMI CAMPBELL
Is there anything she can’t do? The British model, actress and singer is mostly known as one of the biggest supermodels of her generation. She began modeling at age 15 and three years later became the first black woman on the cover on French Vogue. Similarly, she was the first black woman to appear on the cover of British Vogue and first black model to appear on the cover of Time. Known for her penetrating look and long legs, she was one of Gianni Versace’s favorite models despite the many rumors that claimed how difficult it was to work with her. When asked about the beginning of her career during the 90’s, she fondly remembers the Gap ad she appeared in: “I remember when I first saw it at a bus stop, I was like, ‘Oh my God.’ I was really happy,” she said, reminiscing. “My family saw it back home in London, and they were happy . . . I think that was my first billboard on the bus stop. Everyone wanted to be back on the bus stop back then. It was a big deal” (Vanity Fair). The supermodel’s essence lingers in everything she does, and she has always managed to portray her strong character and fierce looks in every photo shoot she takes part of. Also, she is notable for being an advocate for race equality in the fashion industry, defending black women and calling out brands and magazines that did not treat her as they treated her peers. Naomi became a worldwide sensation and a muse for many brands, showcased in her taking part in the cover of the “Modern Muses” editorial shot by Annie Leibovitz for the Millennium issue of Vogue.
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BY: ISABELA FRAIZ ture.” This haircut became her emblem, as she turned it into “the world’s most famous haircut.” Consequently, she was catapulted into becoming a worldwide fashion sensation and became known as one of the five original supermodels. She is often considered the fashion industry’s “chameleon” for her ability to remain constantly changing and adapting to photo-shoots, brands or designers and for not being afraid of changing her hair
LINDA EVANGELISTA
Canadian-born and Italian-raised, Linda Evangelista is a supermodel with an undeniable poise and that certain je ne sais quoi that modeling agencies so eagerly look for. Linda’s journey began in New York and continued in Paris, where at age 19, her international high-fashion modeling career boomed. Among the milestones she achieved in her career was becoming the muse of Karl Lagerfeld, who claimed “There is not another model in the world as professional as she is.” Similarly, she became a muse for Gianni Versace and for prominent photographer Steven Meisel. Before the fall of 1988, Linda was yet to strut her signature short haircut. After trying on a short wig for a photo-shoot, it was photographer Peter Lindbergh who advised her to cut her hair short. She did so, and the next day he did a photo-shoot of her in which he captured the famous “white shirt pic
color as it pleased her. Despite being known for having kind of a bad temper and mouthing words like “I never get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day” she has also expressed her gratitude for the people who have helped her throughout her career “When people ask how have I kept on top, I have to say with the help of every photographer, make-up artist and hairdresser I’ve ever worked with.” Nowadays, she remains as one of the biggest supermodels in history and has appeared on more than 700 magazine covers worldwide. ISSUE 15: FEMME
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CHRISTY TURLINGTON
Multifaceted Christy Turlington is an American supermodel, charity-founder, campaigner and filmmaker. Often referred to as part of the “Trinity” of models along with Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, she was also included on the annual Time 100 list of the world’s most influential people in 2014. During the 90s she appeared in several documentaries about fashion, and in different years she appeared in two music videos. She has appeared on over 500 magazine covers and a few photo-books. Among those are Peter Lindbergh’s 10 Women and the cover of Arthur Elgort’s Model Manual and Karl Lagerfeld’s Off the Record. She is mostly well known for being an activist, highlighting events like her nude appearance in PETA’s anti-fur campaign in1993. She has been a contributing writer for publications like Marie Claire, Yoga Journal, Teen Vogue, and the Huffington Post, as well. Also known as an Advocate for Maternal Health, she began working with the humanitarian organization CARE after suffering complications during her own childbirth in 2003. Moreover, she directed the documentary film “No Woman, No Cry,” which also featured cases of maternal health and consequently launched the non-profit organization Every Mother Counts. Notable for her sense of humanity and honesty, she is remembered for saying things like “Oh, I’m hardly stylish! I’m such a mess. I don’t even think about what I’m going to wear; it’s the last thing I think about.” The charismatic supermodel has been referred to as one of the greatest in the world, and “the best model of all time”, according to casting agent James Scully.
CINDY CRAWFORD
Fashion sensation, female empowerment symbol, and undeniable superstar, American supermodel and actress Cindy Crawford marked the fashion industry and became a worldwide celebrity. The emblematic mole above her lip became a sex symbol and a popular beauty mark. Cindy’s career truly began at 17 after being the runner-up in Elite Model Management’s Look of the Year contest. By 1988 she had already been featured in over 500 magazines, and participated in the fashion industry’s top-notch runway shows. One of the most remarkable ensembles she strutted was the red Versace dress that she wore to the 63rd Academy Awards in 1991, which had a tremendous impact in fashion and gained the admiration of many. She has also been called “Baby Gia” due to her uncanny resemblance to fashion model Gia Carangi. –Does that make her daughter, Kaia Gerber, “Baby Cindy”? Cindy allegedly refreshed the fashion industry for being 164
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a fresh face very much different from the typical model that America was used to. “Cindy changed the perception of the “sexy American girl” from classic blue eyed blonde to a more sultry brunette with brains, charm, and professionalism to spare” said fashion designer Michael Kors. Her charm stems from her incredible sense of generosity and kindness, being an avid charity supporter herself. “I don’t want to have to be beautiful all the time. I want to be able to look cruddy in my weekend sweats, with a pimple on my face and pimple cream on top of the pimple. The expectation to always be beautiful bothers me” is one of the quotes she has said that characterize her eloquent persona and charismatic, sincere nature.
TATJANA PATITZ
One of the “big five” supermodels that appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ‘90,” German model and actress Tatjana Patitz is also an environmental activist with a passion for nature and animals. She recently appeared in the book Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion by Nigel Barker, who claimed that she “possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers.” Her intriguing, elegant features, and mysterious persona made her stand out in the fashion industry and land her first major cover in 1985 for British Vogue. Her career started when she became a finalist on the “Elite Model Look” also known as Elite Model Management’s “Look of the Year” contest. She then moved to Paris and had the opportunity to work with photographer Peter Lindbergh, who said “I admire Tatjana because she always stays herself. She’s very soft, but at the same time she’s very strong and knows how to stand up for what she thinks, and it’s always very enriching to be with her. It’s impossible not to admire her and over the years not to be just a little bit in love with her” in his book 10 Women. She is known for cultivating enriching and long-lasting professional relationships with photographers, which is why she has had a good reputation among people who work in the industry. Her “lynx-like” eyes and impressive height turned her into a fashion sensation as she achieved consecutive covers of American Vogue, for two months in a row. This was an unprecedented event that occurred during the so-called “era of Tatjana,” the pinnacle of her career. Her sensitivity and sense of humanity are qualities that made her just as stunning on the inside, as she has also been known as an ambassador for positivity and healthy behaviors. She once said: “It would be nice if models were allowed to be a more healthy weight - for the models, and for the young women who look up to them. We were athletic and healthy, and we looked like women.”
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TATJANA PATITZ
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SUMMARY
SEASON OF THE
A season bound to be remembered; Spring 2018 was a kaleidoscope of trends that introduced the latest innovations and had us reminiscing of the classics. Milan, Paris, New York, and London all dressed to impress, and were surely worthy of praise. BY: ISABELA FRAIZ First stop: Milan Fashion Week. Probably the most iconic of the season, thanks to its groundbreaking shows, show-stopping concepts and one very nostalgic presentation. Donatella Versace unanimously stole the show after displaying a collection that was a tribute to her late brother and fashion icon, Gianni. Versace went back to basics and adapted Gianni’s most iconic classical themes and patterns to contemporary designs. Barocco patterns, pop art inspired attires and colorful fabrics were the stars of the show 166
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– along with the original clique of supermodels. Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen all walked down the runway strutting classic Versace golden dresses and brought us back to the big “supermodel boom” that Gianni prompted. Twenty years after his passing, Donatella recognized she was finally ready and decided it was time to revive the spark of her brother’s legacy, and once again surpassed the fashion industry’s expectations with a particularly breathtaking collection.
Similarly vivid, Dolce & Gabbana had us dreaming of gardens and orchards with a colorful collection that owned the definition of spring. Also, with a unique theme of playing cards showcased both in the setup of the runway and the fashion ensembles. Silky, breezy, colorful fabrics seemed to be a trend in Milan; and Moschino did not fall behind. Through a very eclectic collection, in a setting that represented spring itself, Moschino featured flower-inspired dresses and rocker-chic attires. The most iconic moments of this runway? Gigi Hadid and It-Girl Kaia Gerber as flower bouquets. Fendi, on the other hand, broke the mold by presenting a classic yet edgy collection in a rather minimalistic setting. The models featured green-colored hair in pixie cuts and the traditional Fendi logo on several pieces. As for Gucci, Alessandro Michele’s character was once again imprinted in every single piece of the collection, in a demonstration of simple meets flamboyant. The runway was made up of blue hues and conveyed a very futuristic feel – seemingly unsurprising taking into account the Italian house’s creative director’s peculiar vision. Moving towards the West of Italy, we arrive at Paris Fashion Week. The City of Lights is known for its jaw-dropping runways and that certain je ne sais quoi, and this year was not the exception. The wet hair look was a beauty trend and featured in both the Chanel and Alexander McQueen shows. Karl Lagerfeld aimed to portray a wet look overall having models strut down a runway with a huge wall of waterfalls. Kaia Gerber opened the show and commenced a runway where transparent rain boots, plastic hats and boldly shadowed eyes were the rule. Celine proved that there is so much more to the brand than pastels and chic purses. Fierce-looking models, an earthy color palette and bold, elegant ensembles ruled the runway and refreshed the image of the brand. Balenciaga and Givenchy aimed for bold elegance while sticking to the oversized-clothing trend. On the other hand, Elie Saab went for silhouette-fitting outfits, golden accents and a sampler of colors and textures with an overall glamorous tempo. Nina Ricci and Loewe did stick to the
delicate femininity theme and used pastel colors in plain colored runways, whereas Balmain manifested its edgy nature through a black and white collection using strong fabrics and materials. Finally, Saint Laurent stays on top as one of the most breathtaking shows and being the epitome of the Parisian night scene. With the Eiffel Tower as a background and a lighting that pertains to the one and only City of Lights, models strutted down the runway in very classic-looking ensembles that featured feathers, strong shoulders and shiny accents. “I want to tell the story of Saint Laurent, of Paris—nothing more deeply than that,” said Anthony Vaccarello, the current Creative Director for the design house. Across the Globe, New York unveiled a Fashion Week where diversity and dauntlessness were the main protagonists. Mark Jacobs made a bold statement with a very avant garde collection featuring mesh and translucent fabrics, prominent head pieces on all the models and oversized clothes. Marchesa moved along the same lines using mesh and translucent fabrics to convey its general theme of delicate femininity. Michael Kors embodied the hardworking New Yorker through a series of ensembles that empowered the modern woman. Similarly, Ralph Lauren opted for a very à la mode approach with the most iconic pieces of its collection being bold single-color dresses contrasting two very different textures. Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta also played with different textures, from flowy fabrics to tulle, both aimed for very classic designs. The former was presented in a very elegant runway, the only way that Carolina herself knows, featuring clean white marble tiles and deep green big-leafed plants. On a very different note, Alexander Wang opted for a much more energetic approach when he extended his invitation for this season’s #WANGFEST. Probably the most distinctive show, with the setting being New York’s Saturday night party scene and having models come out of a truck strutting the very dynamic and festive designs. Tory Burch, on the other hand, resembled a classy stroll through the park being the setting of the show the garden of the Cooper Hewitt,
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Moschino Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Runway
REPORT
Smithsonian Design Museum. Blue skies and radiant sunshine were witnesses to the very chic collection that featured lightweight fabrics and traditional patterns. Calvin Klein embodied the classic American style, featuring layers, denim and shirts in a clean white runway. Last but not least, Tom Ford took us to the year 3000 with a futuristic-looking collection. Big shoulders, modern pixie cuts and bold makeup were the main players in the minimalistic runway. London was the point where very different – and sometimes even conflicting – perceptions of womanhood were encountered. This season brought classic and fierce together, and added a hint of chic. Tommy Hilfiger was an ambassador for classic, using a palette of colors very characteristic of the brand – red, black, and blue hues. The runway was utterly emblematic and featured red, white and blue stripes and an overall American rock n’ roll ambiance. Gigi Hadid led the show along with her siblings Bella and Anwar, and her name was displayed in several of the pieces because of both her collab with Tommy Hilfiger and the fact that she’s often referred to as the brand’s muse. Equally emblematic, Burberry displayed plaid in all shapes, sizes and colors. Moreover, a very folk-like pattern took part of the collection and refreshed the brand’s undeviating style. Burberry always manages to portray British womanhood in a very elegant way, and this time was not the exception. Emporio Armani brought vivid colors to the scene as well as flowy translucent fabrics, in a setup that consisted of a glossy white runway and minimalistic lighting. Finally, Simone Rocha brought a very classical and feminine component through its fabric-heavy designs featuring lace, ruffles and bows; both the runway and designs drenched in a Victorian narrative. As innovative as this season was, revisiting traditional themes was an essential component to it. The celebration of womanhood was again a trend along with empowering females through bold femininity. Reminiscing on the “Supermodel Boom” juxtaposes with the currently similar “boom” we are experiencing during this fashion era, featuring the fashion industry’s latest It Girls. The power of the supermodel, technology and traditional art still reigns in all Fashion Weeks and we cannot wait to see what the next season has in store. See you in the fall!
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Image
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