16 HOMME issue
S/s 2018
HOMME DWF MAGAZINE S / S ‘ 18
NOELLE TORRILLO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
DANIEL ESTRADA CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ISABELA FRAIZ MANAGING EDITOR
FASHION
FASHION DIRECTOR: ARIEL ENGEL; STYLE DIRECTOR: KIRSTYN MARSH; WOMENSWEAR TEAM: LAURA HADDAD, VANESSA LANG, & CECILIA MONGE; MENSWEAR TEAM: ADI COHEN; STYLISTS: ANDREA ALESSANDRINI, MARIEL BATTLE, CELINES HERNANDEZ, SYDNEY HOWARD, MARIA LOBOGUERRERO, MADDIE MIYAHARA, VERONICA QUINTERO, MARY SWEITZER, & YANFEI YANG BOOKINGS DIRECTOR: ALLY MOTUSH; MODEL SCOUT: DIVYA DHAMIJA
BEAUTY BEAUTY DIRECTOR: MEGAN HUBBARD BEAUTY TEAM: PAOLA OTHON, ALEXIS POULOS, & KATIE ROMBEIRO
FEATURES & ARTICLES COPY EDITOR: DELANEY WILLIAMS; ONLINE COPY EDITOR: JESSICA COLEGROVE; WOMENSWEAR COPY EDITOR: GILLIAN MARTON; WRITERS: AUDREY ANELLO, LAUREN EDMONDS, KATHERINE HIGGINS, ALYSSA LAMAS, TAYLOR MITNICK, & NATALIA RAMIREZ
CREATIVE COMMERCIAL VIDEOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: MATTHEW MANYAK; EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHER: CHELSEA BECKTON; BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOGRAPHER: TARA WILSON; GRAPHICS DIRECTOR: HEATHER CARPENTER; GRAPHICS TEAM: CHANDLER DEMPSEY
EVENTS, ADVERTISING, & SOCIAL MEDIA
EVENTS DIRECTOR: NAOMI BELL; EVENTS TEAM: DANIELLE HOUSE; ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: PARKER SLOAN LEIRO SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR: CAROLINA VALDIVIA; SOCIAL MEDIA TEAM: AUDREY MOONEY & DALIA PICHEL
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR FACULTY ADVISOR, ROXANNE PARKER 4
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H O M M E SPRING/SUMMER ‘18
6 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
G RO O M ING
FASH ION
10 UP YOUR BEARD GAME
42 GUCCI & GENDER
11 TAME THE MANE
46 GUCCIFICATION
12 FIND YOUR SIGNATURE SCENT
68 TOM FORD
9 ESSENTIAL SKINCARE
13 BODY WORKS
H E A LT H 16 ENERGIZED. EDITORIAL
28 BEGINNER AT THE GYM? 30 GYM BAG REVAMP 31 SHOPPING FOR SUPPLEMENTS
EDITORIAL
74 FORD
EDITORIAL
90 THE SHADES 91 THE JEWELRY 92 THE SHOES 93 THE (MAN)BAGS 94 AVIATOR EDITORIAL
114 THE YSL EMPIRE 118 MOVING FORWARD 120 RIVINGTON EDITORIAL
146 S/S ‘18 IN SUMMARY
106 DWF S/S ‘18 HOMME: ISSUE 16
14 S/S ‘18 HAIR TRENDS
32 S/S ‘18 RUNWAY TRENDS.
ON THE COVER ALEX BAKALOV (PICTURED IN ZARA MEN’S SPECIAL EDITION) CAPTURED BY DANIEL ESTRADA. TO SEE THE FULL EDITORIAL, RIVINGTON, TURN TO PAGE 120 ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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LETTER FROM THE
E D I TO R
I
’ve sat down to write this letter countless times and still have not been able to find the perfect words to express just how impactful serving as Editor-in-Chief of this magazine has been. I’ll never forget the day I found out I had earned the role - It was finals week Spring ‘16 semester and as I was walking into class to take my last exam, merely days before our Release Party, I heard “congrats Editor-in-Chief” from a then-member of the team. I thought it was a joke; days had gone by and no one heard anything about who it was going to be and as the newest member to the team, I convinced myself that it wasn’t going to be me. I immediately checked my phone and there it was: the email I told myself I was never going to get. Turns out it wasn’t a joke after all. Now, years later, I can’t picture what I would have been doing all this time had I not received it. I thought long and hard about what the theme for this semester’s publications should be, being as they would be not only my last, but also, the last works for key team members who will be graduating this semester as well. As someone who has always put my team members first and sees no difference between my role and anyone else’s, I decided why not create in tribute to them, two Tribute Issues that would be our best yet. A culmination of their hard work and work of the legends that have shaped the publication we have become. But why not take it a step further and in true DWF fashion, make it something memorable that we have yet to do? With that came the idea of Issue 15: Femme and Issue 16: Homme; two Tribute Issues celebrating the women and men, respectively, in fashion as well as the women and men who have served their time and energy with this esteemed publication. I sincerely hope you all see the growth within them that I have seen in all of you. Over the past two years, we as an organization have seen over 110 people walk through our weekly meeting doors and chiefly, four different Vice Presidents who have served time alongside me. Tre, Haley, and Sophia, thank you for all that you did during your time with DWF. It was an honor working with all of you and you each have left a lasting mark with me that I will cherish for years to come. Every single past team member, thank you for your time as well. The memories we’ve made over the years have been some of my fondest. To my current team: I truly believe the best was being saved for last. You all have been more than I could have ever hoped for coming into this
semester. For those of you who have been here for a while, thank you for dedicating your time and continuing to believe in not only me and this publication as a whole, but yourselves as well. I meant it when I said I rarely cry, but the tears I shed with you all could not have been any more genuine. It is the relationships we’ve built along the way that will last infinitely longer than any magazine page count we could have created together. I truly wish I could have gotten to know you all sooner; you have been like a family away from home to me in more ways than I ever imagined. I’m going to miss each and every one of you very dearly but cannot wait to see what the future has in store for you. Dannography, where do I even begin? I’m so glad you found us at the Involvement Fair two years ago. I’ll never forget our first shoot together, Fall ‘16 Beauty, and how far we’ve come since. I don’t even remember how or when we became such good friends and work partners because it feels like I’ve known you my whole life, but I’m so glad we did. Thank you for always believing in me during good times and bad and always reminding me that taking a deep breath once in a while is a good thing. Thank you for so effortlessly being the Creative Director this magazine needed and never doubting any concepts that were thrown your way. You have grown so much as a photographer over the years, and I can’t wait to see what the future holds in store for you and all the incredible covers you will capture. You will always be better than Testino in my eyes. As I say my final goodbyes to the organization and teams that have been everything to me for the past two years, I can’t help but be so unbelievably proud of what we have achieved and the numerous accomplishments in store for my successors and the teams they will form. For the first time in DWF history, I’m passing the torch to two Editor-in-Chief’s as well as a Creative Director who I hope together will continue on this journey and enjoy every second of it. The good times, the bad, the all-nighters, the tears, the successes - all of those moments will shape you as they have shaped me. Trust the process and more importantly, trust in each other. For the last time,
Noelle Torrillo, Editor-in-Chief ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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GROOMING
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WELL GROOMED DWF MAGAZINE
GROOMING
1
ESSENTIAL
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Skincare BY: Alyssa Lamas
Although skin care is usually targeted and thought of as only something for women, men need some skin lovin’ too! Though a lot of skincare products might seem like they are only for women, they most likely are not. The first step in any good skincare regimen is using a face wash - something you can use every day to just simply clean that dirt off your face. Glossier’s Milky Jelly cleanser is so gentle, it does not even burn when it gets in your eyes. It’s simple, but it gets the job done. Sometimes, you get one little break out and you don’t know how to defeat it. Mario Badescu has a magic drying lotion; all you need to do is put a bit on your blemish overnight and bam, it’s dried up the next day. Moisturizer is also a necessity for showing your skin some love. Malin + Goetz’s moisturizer has Vitamin E which helps with making your skin look youthful, so with this moisturizer you can look young and have a glowy face.
(1) Clinique For Men™ Maximum Hydrator, $6, Nordstrom; (2) Marrio Badescu Drying Lotion, $17, Ulta; (3) (Malin + Goetz) Vitamin E Face Moisturizer, $50, https://www.malinandgoetz.com
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GROOMING
BEARD GAME When you pull together your fit for the day, it’s easy to forget that it’s not just the threads you do or the carefully color coordinated kicks to match. These days it’s all about the facial hair and DWF is ready to help upgrade your shaving products.
BY: LAUREN EDMONDS (1) PRE-SHAVE: Although not a part of most men’s shaving routines, pre-shave or shave oil
is a great addition for men who have sensitive skin. American Crew Ultra Gliding Shave Oil does a stellar job of softening the facial hair and producing a close, smooth shave. (2) SHAVING BRUSH: Although most men default to the good ol’ bare hand application, Kent’s Silver Tip Badger Brush helps lift the hair follicles for easier glide and is considered one of the best on the market. Shavemace also sells a version of the Badger Shaving Brush that’s just as good for a lower price. (3) LATHERING PRODUCTS: Korres Shaving Cream contains high essential oils that prevent irritated skin and hydrates the skin. Established in 1805, Truefitt & Hill is glycerin-based and has an “oceanic” scent. (4) RAZOR: The razor is arguably the most important piece in the shaving kit, and the Japanese manufactured Seki Edge Feather AS-D2 is a phenomenal choice for any man who truly cares about his shaving routine. The Edwin Jagger DE89 from England is a popular razor with users as well. (5) AFTERSHAVE: Sandalwood After Shave Balm is the ultimate finishing touch to any proper shave and replenishes moisture to freshly shaved skin. (6) TRIMMING SCISSORS: Shaving kits don’t have to be tailored only to those trying to go smooth cut, beards play a significant style choice in many a man’s grooming preferences. For thinning and cutting beards Equinox Professional sells Japanese stainless steel trimming set for beard aficionados. (7) ELECTRIC RAZOR: The German razor company Braun created the popular Braun Series 9 (9095cc) and it quickly became the brands best selling model. 10
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(1) American Crew Ultra Gliding Shave Oil ($16.95); (2) Kent BLK12 Silver Tip Badger Shaving Brush ($250) or Shavemac #177 23mm Finest Badger Shaving Brush in Faux Ivory ($95); (3) Korres Shaving Cream (Expensive $32.50), Truefitt & Hill 1805 ($30); (4) Seki Edge Feather AS-D2 ($220) or Edwin Jagger DE89 ($39); (5) Sandalwood After Shave Balm ($49); (6) Equinox Professional Razor Edge Series ($39.99); (7) Electric Razor Braun Series 9 9095cc ($250)
UP YOUR
GROOMING
TAME THE
MANE
Foolproof products and application tips to keep your hair looking its best all season long.
BY: NOELLE TORRILLO (1) SHAMPOO: Keep your locks looking healthy all season long with Oribe Gold Lust Repair & Restore Sham-
poo. This repairative lather gently cleanses and restores moisture to your hair so it appears more fresh and youthful. It helps your hair reinforce the inner strength of each strand on your head with its rich formula. This product can be used on all hair types and is vegan, cruelty-free, and gluten-free. (2) MASQUE: In need of an extra boost? Give Oribe’s Gold Lust Transformative Masque a try to cure your end of the week hair blues. This masque penetrates every strand in order to rebuild and fortify fibers and improve elasticity overall. Work this masque in your hair and sit back while the intense nourishment and conditioning does its job of strengthening the hair cuticle and adding softness, shine, and body to your mane. (3) GEL: Trying to hold it all together? Martial Vivot Gel, will keep your style in place while you go about your day. This gel provides maximum hold while adding sheen, nourishment, moisture, and promotes healthy hair growth. (4) POMADE: Keep your curls in check with Baxter of California’s Hard Cream Pomade. Perfect for managing your day to day styles, this product will soften and smooth out your natural texture and keep you looking your best all day long. This pomade is excellent for all hair types, especially curly and wavy hair. 2 (1) Oribe Gold Lust Repair & Restore Shampoo; (2) Oribe Gold Lust Repair & Restore Shampoo, 8.5 oz./ 251 mL, $49, Neiman Marcus; (2) Oribe Gold Lust Transformative Masque, 5 oz./ 147 mL, $66.00, Neiman Marcus; (3) Martial Vivot Gel, $28.00, Barney’s; (4) Baxter of California Cream Pomade, 2 oz., $23.00, Barney’s
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GROOMING
FIND YOUR SIGNATURE S C E N T
Whether you’re going on a job interview, a fancy dinner date, or just running errands, it’s always important to smell nice. Don’t know what scent suits you best? Check out these three categories and find the perfect cologne for you!
BY: JESSICA COLEGROVE
Wo o d sy: Going for a sophisticated, yet mysterious vibe? Consisting of sandalwood, cedar, and other nature-based notes, woodsy fragrances give off warm and earthy tones that will bring out your wild side. Fresh:
Looking for a more light and clean scent? Whether you prefer the ocean breeze or the smell of citrus fruits, these fresh fragrances will keep you feeling cool throughout the day. Leat her: Need something as powerful as you? Searching for a confidence booster? Dominated by the sensual scents of honey, tobacco, and wood tars, these leather colognes will help you channel your inner strength and emphasize your masculinity.
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(1) Tom Ford Private Blend ‘Oud Wood’ Cologne, Nordstrom, $230 (2) Chanel ‘Bleu de Chanel’ Cologne, Macy’s, $128 (3) Yves Saint Laurent Y Eau de Toilette, Nordstrom (4) Dolce & Gabbana ‘Light Blue’, Macy’s, $56 (5) Creed ‘Aventus’ Cologne for Men, Nordstrom, $315 (6) Valentino ‘Uomo’ Fragrance, Nordstrom, $80 (7) Gucci ‘Guilty Eau Pour Homme’ Eau de Toilette, Macy’s, $90
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GROOMING (1) Molton Brown Black Peppercorn Body Wash, 10 oz./ 300 mL, $30.00, Neiman Marcus; (2) La Mer The Regenerating Serum, 1 oz., $335.00, Barney’s; (3) Acqua Di Parma Essenza Deodorant Stick, 2.5 oz., $46.00, Grooming Lounge; (4) Clinique UV Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50, 1 oz., $29.50, Sephora
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BODY
4
WORKS
Looking for a new anytime, anywhere product lineup this season? We’ve got you covered.
BY: NOELLE TORRILLO Using a spicy, energizing body wash that will wake you up and leave you smelling great is the only way to start off the day right. With subtle notes of black peppercorn, coriander, and basil, Molton Brown Black Peppercorn Body Wash offers a fresh and invigorating long lasting scent. Get ready to draw everyones attention. S erum: Do not skip your serums, gentlemen! Between pollutants in the air and the suns harmful rays, you have to protect your skin now more than ever before. La Mer is an excellent choice for all skin needs; though pricey, the high price tag yields even higher results. Their Regenerating Serum helps complement skins natural production of collagen and elastin so rapidly that you will see a difference in only a days time. d e o d o ra n t : Those of you into wood and/or fresh scents, look no further than this bold and refreshing deodorant: Acqua Di Parma Essenza Deodorant Stick. Perfect for long summer nights, your perspiration will be kept at bay. The formula works hard for lasting protection and is mild enough for guys with sensitive skin. With a light scent of woody citrus, it will compliment almost any cologne you wear on the daily. Su nsc r e e n : Sunscreen is a MUST. Most products go on white or blue and dry completely transparent so there are no excuses for not protecting your skin from the sun! Try an oil-free based product such as Clinique UV Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 to keep natural oils in and the suns damage out. Using regularly will prevent visible signs of aging and will protect you from both UVA and UVB rays.
BO DY WAS H :
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S/S ‘18 HAIR TRENDS YOUR MORNING HAIR ROUTINE JUST GOT EASIER. THIS SEASON’S HOTTEST HAIR TRENDS ARE MUCH LESS HIGH MAINTENANCE. CHECK OUT DWF MAGAZINE’S TOP-PICK HAIR TRENDS FROM THE S/S ’18 RUNWAYS.
SACAI
PUNK FUNK
SACAI
One of the big trends for this season is an unconventional look where your hair is untidy and intentionally left messy. This was seen on the runway of Sacai. To achieve this look, keep your hair short at the nape and sides and keep the same all over longer length on the top. Add some product to your hair and roughly work it through to give it texture and movement. Go for the messy look on top. Embrace your inner Sid Vicious!
LOEWE
BUZZ WORTHY
SACAI
ACNE STUDIOS
A returning trend that’s back this season for good reason - this look is for all who want something simple, easy, and low maintenance. The military-style buzz cut provides maximum impact with minimum fuss. This look was seen on the runways for Alexander Wang and Acne Studios. To achieve this look, you need a good pair of hair clippers. If you want an extreme buzz cut, select number one for your entire head. If you don’t want such a bold look, select number one for the back and sides and number six on top. For all the ALEXANDER WANG masculine GI Joe’s, you can’t go wrong with either option. 14
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S/S ‘18 HAIR TRENDS LONGER LOCKS
Another look that’s making a comeback this season is longer hair. Unlike the hair bands from the 80’s, the new look is more refined and polished. The longer locks can be seen cut anywhere from the middle of the eye to the shoulder. This look was seen on the runway for Alexander McQueen. To achieve this look, run some styling gel through damp hair and brush it back for a sleek clean look. All heads will turn for this GQ style.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
GUCCI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
DSQUARED2
N O PA R T, P L E A S E
For the man on the go, this quick and easy style is just for you. With shorter layers and a non-defined part, the overall look is very relaxed and swept to the side. This look was seen on the runways for Dsquared2 and Brunello Cucinelli To achieve this look, towel dry damp hair and run a glossy gel throughout. Sweep your hair to the side without creating a defined part. Fast and furious - now you have the rest of the day to rule the world!
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ENERGIZED. Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Models: CHAD BANKS, CORNELIUS GRAY, & TYLER ROBERGE Stylists: ADI COHEN, LAURA HADDAD, ALLY MOTUSH, MARY SWEITZER, & DELANEY WILLIAMS Production Assistants: CHELSEA BECKTON & MEGAN HUBBARD
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Shorts (Model’s own) Pro Combat Cropped Tights (Nike, Model’s own) Sneakers (Nike, Model’s own)
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Pro Combat Cropped Tights (Nike, Model’s own) Sneakers (Nike, Model’s own) Slip-On Boxing Gloves (Everlast, Director’s own)
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Surge Short (Lululemon, Model’s own) Pro Combat Cropped Tights (Nike, Model’s own) Sneakers (Adidas, Model’s own) Necklace (Model’s own)
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HEALTH
beginner
AT THE GYM?
The first step to take before even picking up a weight is making sure you have someone to conduct a postural assessment with. Posture is everything!
BY: HEATHER CARPENTER Have someone else watch you while squatting, doing push-ups, and pullups. Because it’s hard to look after your form while performing these yourself! These three moves target almost every muscle in the body, so it’s easy for a bystander to see when there are postural imbalances, muscle tightness, muscle flexibility, and joint stabilization. On the same note, when first getting to the gym, it’s important to master calisthenics before adding resistance weight. Calisthenics are exercises used to achieve bodily fitness and grace of movement without using any equipment. This includes the basic push up, sit up, or plank. BELOW IS A LIST OF CALISTHENICS USED TO TARGET EACH MUSCLE GROUP:
ABS: SIT-UPS, REVERSE CRUNCHES, BICYCLE CRUNCHES, FLUTTER KICKS, LEG RAISES, ELBOW PLANT QUADS: LUNGES, HIGH KNEES, TURNING KICKS, MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS, FLY STEPS, SIDE LEG RAISES GUTES:
SQUATS, DONKEY KICKS, BRIDGES, JUMP KNEE TUCKS, FLY STEPS, SIDE LEG RAISES
TRICEPS: CLOSE GRIP PUSH-UPS, TRICEP DIPS, TRICEP EXTENSIONS, GET-UPS, PUNCHES, SIDE-TO-SIDE CHOPS BICEPS: LEG CURLS, CHIN-UPS, DOOR-FRAME ROWS, BODY ROWS, SITTING PULL-UPS, PSEUDO PLANKS
BACK:
PULL-UPS, ELBOW LIFTS, SUPERMANS, STAR PLANK, ALT ARM/LEG PLANK, AND FULL ARCHES
CHEST: PUSH-UPS, PLANK ROTATIONS, CHEST SQUEEZES, SHOULDER PRESS, SHOULDER TAPS, AND CLAPPING PUSH-UPS
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HEALTH
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HEALTH
GYM BAG REVAMP
At the gym, it seems like every guy has a cool tote with all necessary items for a great workout. Many men also bring toiletries to freshen up at the gym before work. But what are the necessary items for your gym bag? With summer’fast approaching, the urge to get to the gym seems more intense and the need for workout gear is unavoidable. Check out DWF’s favorite gym items that every guy needs in their bag this year.
BY: AUDREY ANELLO
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Gucci Duffel Bag ($1,100), Lulu Lemon Men’s Switch-Up Short 6” ($78), Lulu Lemon Cover Ground Jacket ($198), Bionic Men’s Performance Grip Full Finger Fitness Gloves, Large, Black/Grey ($27), Yeti Rambler 36 oz. Bottle ($49.99), B&O BeoPlay H3 Headphones ($149), Apple Watch Edition 3 ($1,349), Mission Enduracool Techknit Instant Cooling Towel ($17.99), Tom Ford Oud Wood Deodorant Stick ($52), Badlands Dry Shampoo Paste ($29), Jack Black Deep Dive Glycolic Facial Cleanser ($22)
BUY ING GUID E : PROTEIN: Vitaminshoppe, Gold Standard 100% Whey ($57.99); AMINO ACIDS: GNC, L-Gluthione ($39.99); CAFFEINE: Walmart, Equate Stay Awake ($3.94); CREATINE: Vitaminshoppe, Bodytech 100% Pure Creatine ($19.99); TESTOSTERONE: Vitaminshoppe, Nugenix Testosterone Booster ($54.99); CVS, CVS Health Vitamin C Orange Flavored Gummies ($7.19)
SHOPPING FOR
HEALTH
SUPPLEMENTS
Consuming the proper amount of nutrients is essential for a healthy lifestyle. Although nothing fully takes the place of a balanced diet, supplements can act as an added boost or gap filler for the substances your body may lack. When you exercise, your body works hard. As a result, it breaks down your muscles and loses some important nutrients. Dietary supplements combat these weaknesses and can create a more optimal workout experience. Check out these six common supplements!
BY: JESSICA COLEGROVE
PROTEIN:
Aids in: Muscle building; How it works: When you work out, your body breaks down muscle and builds it back up stronger. Protein is the building block of muscle, so it’s an essential ingredient in this rebuilding process.
AMINO ACIDS:
Aids in: Muscle building; How they work: Amino acids are the basic building blocks of the body. They regulate metabolic processes and form tissues, organs, muscles, skin and hair. Taking these supplements will increase the strength of these components throughout your body.
CAFFEINE:
Aids in: Energy, How it works: With our busy schedules, it’s sometimes hard to get energized for a workout. The commonly consumed stimulant, caffeine, aids in energy production, as it gets you moving and delays fatigue.
CREATINE:
Aids in: Endurance and Performance; How it works: When you complete high intensity, short duration workouts, your body quickly uses up the majority of creatine phosphate, a molecule that provides the energy you need for these kinds of exercises. Taking creatine supplements replenishes your body’s supply and helps boost performance abilities.
TESTOSTERONE:
Aids in: Maintaining muscle, energy, and sexual health; How it works: Testosterone is the hormone that makes you a man. A deficiency will cause a decrease in muscle strength, energy, and sex drive, and in this case, testosterone supplements are useful in getting the levels back up.
VITAMIN C:
Aids in: Immunity; How it works: When you exercise, your body naturally becomes weaker and prone to illness and infection. Vitamin C helps your immune system fight these harmful substances. ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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FASHION
HAIDER ACKERMANN
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
HAIDER ACKERMANN
N O. 1 : S U I T S I N E V E RY C O L O R Suits in numerous colors and patterns were a huge runway trend this season. Even Tom Ford broke away from the brands’ staple black and white theme to incorporate various colors and patterns into their classic menswear suits. Acne studios styled their blue suits casually with knit sweaters and caged loafers, while Tom Ford stuck to a daring office look. Colorful suits were also broken up with a simple tee, rolled sleeves, or sneakers, to give it a simplistic look. Ermenegildo Zegna had a very laid-back take on the colorful suit - pairing it with a tee and sneakers; as well as Haider Ackermann who dared to pair nothing under the suit and paired the minimalistic look with flip flops. 32
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BY: DELANEY WILLIAMS
DETAILS AT LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR RUNWAY SHOW
FASHION
N O. 2 : T R O P I CA L P R I N T S Hawaiian shirts have made a revival on the runway. Designers such as Louis Vuitton and Paul Smith released new renditions of this old trend. Louis Vuitton presented multiple ways to style the Hawaiian shirt - from topping it with a trench coat, to wearing it oversized with leggings, to belted with gauchos. Men are already wearing the Hawaiian shirt in streetwear fashions before the release of these New York Fashion Week runway designs. Phil Oh photographed several street style pictures for Vogue that showcased men sporting this trend during fashion week. The 90’s trend gives off a complete geeky chic vibe.
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FASHION
N O. 3 : S K I R T S F O R M E N Men’s skirts on the runway are breaking gender norms this season. It is a look that displays the utmost confidence. The same Thom Browne show that presented short trousers with a suit also featured pleated skirts paired with collared shirts and ties. Lowe’s Spring 2018 Menswear campaign showed a fringed skirt inspired by the culture of Spain. Vivienne Westwood went beyond the skirt and sent out men in full dresses. Each of these looks, whether professional or pure fun, celebrate the femininity of men and push past controversy. 34
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DETAILS AT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING 2018 RUNWAY SHOW
FASHION
N O. 4 : W E AT H E R - P R O O F Clothes that appear to have the ability to withstand mother nature in all her forms made appearances in numerous shows. Parkas, sailing gear, windbreakers, and even umbrellas were featured. Functionality met fashion with these looks from Raf Simmons, Louis Vuitton, Palm Angels, and more. Raf Simmons has a distinct theme of rain-wear attire with several looks featuring a raincoat, wide-brimmed hat, and umbrella. Palm Angels showed a futuristic beach-ready look, with models almost completely covered from head to toe. The button down, palm print, shirts were layered with a hooded parka underneath as well as sunglasses; even the featured swim-wear covered the face and has sleeves.
DETAILS AT RAF SIMMONS SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR RUNWAY SHOW
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FASHION
N O. 5 : S H O R T S H O R T S Short shorts on the runway are not out of the ordinary, but this season they are shorter and more peculiar than ever. From tiny trousers with a suit, to small silk athletic shorts, this spring has it all. Prada and Tom Ford showed sporty renditions of the short, one made out of silk and one of spandex. Prada featured a futuristic vibe while Tom Ford’s is more preppy. Thom Browne opened his Spring 2018 with a rule-breaking suit where the pants reach just above mid-thigh. Dior Homme also showed a less traditional suit accompanied by trousers that are almost completely covered by the jacket.
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DETAILS AT GUCCI SPRING 2018 READY-TO-WEAR RUNWAY SHOW
COMME DES GARÇONS
ALEXANDER McQUEEN
COMME DES GARÇONS
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N O. 6 : F E M I N I N E FA B R I CAT I O N S As demonstrated in the Comme Des Garçons show, menswear designers adopted feminine fabrics this season. Baggy glitter shorts with matching colorful jackets were the focus at Garçons; while Alexander McQueen also followed this shimmering trend by sending a trench coat embellished in gold beading down the runway as his finale piece. Velvet and Satin have proved popular in menswear as well with designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Ann Demeulemeester adding velvet jackets and satin suits to their collections. These delicate yet radiant fabric choices brought fun to menswear runway shows this Spring 2018 season.
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N O. 7: “ DA D S T Y L E ” The 90’s dad inspired looks are among us. Sweaters, baggy denim, and chunky sneakers on the runway proved that these looks never fully went out of style. Demna Gvasalia even stated that his looks were inspired by young fathers in the park with their kids. Julien David paired simple tees with baggy jeans and chinos, styled with gold chains, narrow sunglasses, and tan sneakers to give the ultimate dad vibes. Balenciaga took this trend to the next level by featuring real dads accompanied by their children in the Spring 2018 show. The fathers were dressed in oversized blazers, a basic tee, and baggy pants that were overlaid in different fabrics. 38
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DETAILS AT CHRISTIAN DIOR SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR SHOW
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N O. 8 : W I D E L E G PA N T S Roomy pants for the spring are not only a hit for the women. Comfort and style met on the runway as relaxed and extra-wide legged pants were a huge trend. Both Versace and Dior Homme added to this trend with almost saggy, extremely relaxed trousers. Flare pants were a staple throughout the Acne Studios show. They included various fabrics and patterns, from chiffon to linen and plaid to plain. It is almost difficult to see the drape of clothes in this show because the models were seated, but the extreme flare of the pants was an obvious feature.
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N O. 9 : H I G H - R I S E PA N T S Following suit with the cinched-waistline trend in women’s fashion, the waistline of men’s pants are on the rise as well. Both trousers and gauchos have been prevalent on the runway with a high-waisted fit. Accessories such as belts, suspenders, and fanny packs were used to heighten this look of an extremely fitted waistline. Fendi styled their pants with both the pants alone as well as the pants held with suspenders. Double belting was also used to style the pants. Haider Ackermann used two thin belts and stacked them on top of each other to accentuate the cinched waist of these laidback trousers. This trend is seen as both professional with dress shoes and casual with flip flops.
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DETAILS AT FENDI SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR RUNWAY SHOW
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N O. 1 0 : M E N ’ S J U M P S U I T S The male romper has been laughed about on social media sites for a while now, but shows such as Prada and Ralph Lauren proved that it is no joke. These designers added a serious tone and cool-guy appeal to the trend. Prada showed a jumpsuit in a variety of colors and accessorized it with futuristic sneakers, a fanny pack, and a thin belt. Ralph Lauren put a professional spin on the jumpsuit. He showed that is you are daring enough, the jumpsuit could be an office statement. He styled it in monochrome fashion with a blue shirt, tie, and loafers.
DETAILS AT PRADA SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR RUNWAY SHOW
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GUCCI & GENDER By: TAYLOR MITNICK
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ashion has always been a direct reflection of the times we are living in- economically, politically and socially. In recent years, the concept of gender identity has come to the forefront of social issues. Lines have been erased and labels have been disposed of as people urge to be identified by something more encompassing than biological predispositions. Androgyny has been embraced in fashion by many brands- one of the largest fashion houses in particular, Gucci. Gucci has seen vast changes in the past two decades. From Tom Ford’s hyper-sexual campaign ads to Frida Giannini’s romantically feminine disposition, Alessandro Michele has taken the fashion house into an entirely different image. Born in Rome in 1972, Alessandro Michele grew up obsessed with art and film. He began his formal education in fashion by attending the Accademia di Costume e di Moda where he studied costume design. Michele began his tenure with Gucci in 2002 where he designed handbags. His originality was noticed throughout his time at Gucci when led him to eventually becoming the associate designer to Frida Giannini. Michele’s ascension to Creative Director was a surprise to many, but made complete sense to the house. Being a part of the team for so long, Michele understood the transformation that Gucci had seen and had his own inner passion for taking the brand forward into a new terrain. His debut collection for the house was for Autumn/Winter 2015. He had five days to create the menswear line following Giannini’s abrupt departure. This was the radical change that Gucci needed. Following slow decline in sales due to repeated designs that tainted Giannini’s time at the house, Michele made a bold statement with his abandonment
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of Gucci’s previously risqué identity. Many of the men’s looks were modeled by women who were dressed in baggy trousers, conservatively buttoned-up blouses and large bows that adorned their necks. Many of these looks were also seen throughout the women’s ready-to-wear collection. Makeup for both genders went from glossy and polished, to effortless and bare and a mixture of long and short locks were seen in both shows. Since his first collection, Michele has committed the brand to
confusing traditionally viewed distinctions between mens and womenswear. He is famously quoted for separating sensuality from sexuality. Michele is trying to shift power that has previously come from an embrace of physicality, to gaining power that stems from inner confidence and self-creation. The 70s continuously make an appearance in recent Gucci collections, but never without a modern interpretation. “We exist to reproduce ourselves, but we have moved on. We are in a post-human era.... Now, we have
to decide what we want to be.” Something that separates Gucci from other androgynous labels is the emphasis of femininity on menswear rather than vice-versa. Many other fashion labels from Yves Saint Laurent to Public School and Calvin Klein have embraced the trend by putting masculine silhouettes on women. It has been less embraced however, to make men’s styles more feminine. Many people viewed this as eccentric and too far from the norm. There lies the power of fashion- to de-
fine your personal identity. As society becomes more open to new forms of expression and as people refuse to be categorized by one factor in their life, more men are embracing this trend. Celebrities such as David Bowie and Annie Lennox were pioneers of androgynous dress. Many who follow their footsteps today include Tilda Swinton and Jared Leto. These celebrities ooze sensuality and mystery and the public is now praising these fashion choices as authentic illustration of who they
are. Since this drastic re-brand, Gucci’s sales have increased, and critics have been eager to see new collections. This reflection of society’s open-mindedness is exciting for an industry that profits off of the public. This allows designers to push the envelope further with every collection and make clothes that mean more than something visual. This allows designers to create clothes that evoke emotion and deeper expression that people can wear, and feel like the truest representation of themselves. ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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OPPOSITE PAGE: GLASSES H&M BLOUSE Zara PANTS Zara BELT Director’s own THIS PAGE: COLLARED SHIRT Zara KNIT SWEATER H&M PANTS H&M SHOES Steve Madden
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OPPOSITE PAGE: BLOUSE Zara CARDIGAN Zara PANTS Zara BELT Director’s own SOCKS Editor’s own SHOES Steve Madden THIS PAGE: GLASSES H&M COLLARED SHIRT Zara JACKET Zara PANTS Zara SOCKS Editor’s own SHOES Steve Madden
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TOM FORD BY: ISABELA FRAIZ
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e conquered the fashion industry through his luxurious pieces, shook the film industry with his imaginative films, and is the official tailor for James Bond. With a brand that never ceases to impress and a creativity that seems bottomless,Tom Ford is definitely much more than suits. A Texas native that embarked on a career in architecture, Tom Ford realized his passion for fashion after being an intern for Chloé in Paris. He also worked at Perry Ellis for two years where he made an acquaintance that would be of much relevance in his future, Marc Jacobs. Even though he was making his way in American Fashion, he knew his days working in America were counted. In an interview with The New York Times he said: “If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture was inhibiting me. Too much style in America is tacky. It’s looked down upon to be too stylish. Europeans, however, appreciate style.” This happened around the late 80s, the same time that the now prominent Italian fashion house Gucci was near bankruptcy, and critically looking to work on its womenswear as a part of a very much needed brand overhaul. The early 90s presented themselves with the big shot that would catapult Tom Ford into a long and successful career in fashion. He was offered the opportunity to revamp Gucci as he was named the brand’s chief women’s readyto-wear designer. Ford flew to Milan to attempt what most designers rejected, being the lead of a fashion company that was far from being a renowned brand. Initially being assigned womenswear only, within a span of six months Ford had already surpassed everyone’s expectations and started working on menswear and shoes as well. Two years later, he was named design director after Richard Lambertson left, and became the official leader of Gucci’s readyto-wear, fragrances, image, advertising and even store design. Ford was working eighteen hours a day, but nearly received any credit. Most of his work in doing the impossible to revive this brand was eclipsed by the public face of the company, Dawn Mello. Ford did not have an issue with his work behind the scenes, but there was an alleged tension between him and Maurizio Gucci, the chairman of the company and owner of 50% of it. According to Dawn Mello “Maurizio always wanted everything to be round and brown, and Tom wanted to make it square and black” It wasn’t until 1994 that Ford took pride in being the Creative Director of Gucci. Among his biggest innovations at the brand were the Halston-style velvet hipsters, silky satin shirts and ultra metallic
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patent boots. However, the most prominent characteristic of this era was his collaboration with Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino. They created a new campaign for the brand that might have prompted the 90% increase of Gucci’s sales between 1995 and 1996. The controversial campaign featured sexiness in a way that Gucci – and many other fashion brands – had never seen before. Seductive silhouettes were the main attraction along with nudity and even spanking. The daring campaign is something that Mario Testino reminisces on with great pride, he told Vogue “This period helped me identify the power of advertising, not as a subdued version of editorial, but as a place for stronger imagery than what we do in editorial.” He also mentioned how Ford’s approach was more pushing than it was controlling, and how he no longer had the need to limit himself or be careful, but the liberty to go all the way. This period was both Gucci’s and Ford’s defining time, and he managed to do the impossible. By 1999, the Italian fashion house was valued at more than $4 billion. Ford took his sensual designs and brought them to Yves Saint Laurent, when Gucci acquired the French fashion house in 1999. He was named Creative Director of the label to the displeasure of Saint Laurent himself, “The poor man does what he can” he mouthed about Ford. In spite of this, Ford’s overtly sexy designs boosted the ready-to-wear line of the brand and his work was absolutely acclaimed by other peers in the industry, the press, and customers themselves. Among the most notable, his advertising campaign for the Yves Saint Laurent’s fragrances Opium was extremely controversial and provocative as well, having model Sophie Dahl wearing nothing but a necklace and a pair of stilettos. But, like the phrase “all good things must come to an end”, Tom Ford left the Gucci group in the spring of 2004. He recalls this experience as a turning point in his life where he experienced the closest thing to a midlife crisis. He took this energy and put it in a new line of menswear, beauty, eyewear and accessories that he titled with his very own name, “Tom Ford”. The beauty line was created in partnership with Estee Lauder, and in 2006, he collaborated with Ermenegildo Zegna to launch a luxury menswear collection. This was the beginning of his official trajectory into becoming one of the fashion industry’s biggest magnates in history, with a legacy that would linger through brands for generations. The Tom Ford brand started off with a store inspired by his London townhouse in Madison Avenue, New York. About a year later, the brand’s international expansion was already in the near horizon,
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with stores in London, Milan, Los Angeles and Hawaii. While most of the time he was focused on menswear, in 2010 he returned to designing womenswear with an astonishing presentation at his Madison Avenue store featuring the most trendy female celebrities at the time. Three years later, Tom Ford was already showing off collections at London Fashion Week. ike most acclaimed designers, Ford appealed the celebrity masses and worked closely with all of them. He was featured in a song named nothing less than Tom Ford by Jay-Z, collaborated with Justin Timberlake on the art and music video for his song Suit & Tie, and became the official tailor for James Bond since the Quantum of Solace movie. This celebrity influence has been detrimental for many brands in the past, such as Versace, as it is a known fact that Gianni Versace loved to have a lineup of celebrities at the very first row of his fashion shows. Aside from the fashion world, Ford was able to exploit even more his creativity through his career in the film industry. He launched a film production company called Fade to Black and debuted as a director with the film A Single Man. Another one of his acclaimed films is notorious Nocturnal Animals in which stars such as Jake Gyllenhaal and Amy Adams were featured. The film was praised by critics and even won the Grand Jury Prize at the Venice Film Festival. Tom Ford has managed to become one of the world’s biggest entrepreneurs by conquering both the fashion and film world. His brand remains a symbol for sexiness, feminity and manliness all at the same time, and his name echoes in every corner of fashions evolution’s history. How does he do it all? Scheduling is all it takes, as he said on the Jimmy Kimmel Show. Ford said he has every single minute of his day scheduled a year ahead, claiming that this is one of the main secrets to becoming successful in the fashion industry. What will he bring this season? Stay tuned and become a part of his fashion agenda!
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Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA Model: HUNTER PHILLIPS Stylists: ADI COHEN & ALLY MOTUSH Production Assistant: MEGAN HUBBARD
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Glasses ($9.99, H&M) Striped Sweater with Wide Ribbed Trims ($39.90, Zara.com) White Twill Jacket ($39.99, H&M) Belt (photographer’s own) White Twill Pants Slim Fit ($29.99; H&M)
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Sunglasses ($9.99, H&M) Black Knit Turtleneck (photographer’s own) Belt (photographer’s own) Tuxedo Trousers ($79.90; Zara.com) Shoes (model’s own)
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Sunglasses ($9.99, H&M) Black Knit Turtleneck (photographer’s own) Blue Denim Jacket ($49.99, H&M) Belt (photographer’s own) Tuxedo Trousers ($79.90; Zara.com) Shoes (model’s own)
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Suit Blazer with Tuxedo Collar ($199.00, Zara.com) Satin Bow Tie ($12.99, H&M) Shirt with Rib Front and Tuxedo Collar ($49.90, Zara.com) Belt (photographer’s own) Tuxedo Trousers ($79.90; Zara.com)
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Checked suit Blazer ($149.00, Zara.com) Premium Cotton Shirt ($24.99, H&M) Houndstooth wide Tie ($35.90, Zara. com) Checked Suit Waistcoat ($79.90, Zara.com) Belt (photographer’s own) Checked Suit Trousers ($79.90; Zara.com)
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From classic to modern, sunglasses owned the S/S ‘18 runways. Check out DWF’s favorite trends this season. BY: NOELLE TORRILLO
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Sunglasses are always a must in the Spring and Summer months so it came as no surprise when they were very prevalent in menswear this season. A true classic, AVIATORS were in abundance this season from dark lenses to colored lenses at Emporio Armani and Gucci, respectively. ROUND frames made a serious comeback this Spring as seen at Giorgio Armani. In favor of lighter colors for the warmer season, white was seen all over the runways. This included WHITE FRAMED sunglasses at Gucci. In true Balmain overthe-top fashion, Olivier equipped his models with OVERSIZED frames. DWF MAGAZINE
FASHION Terry Richardson for Valentino
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JEWELRY
Jewelry is an accessory that can define your style and complete your look. On the runways this season, statement necklaces adorned a number of necks. The runways were graced with short chains at Dior Homme and long vintage-inspired pieces at Alexander McQueen. Brooches added a bit of personality to jackets at Dolce & Gabbana and for an edgy look, leather cuffs and wrist straps were accessorized at Alexander McQueen. ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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shoes
Shoes were a big focal point this season. At Berluti, black and neutral slides slid down the runways. Colorful sneakers were a hit throughout; Reds, greens, and blues graced the catwalks at Dior Homme and Tom Ford. Suede lace up loafers and booties in neutrals and grays could be seen at Giorgio Armani. Head-turning bold leather loafers in bright colors and designs were seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Gucci, and Tom Ford. 92
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FASHION Terry Richardson for Valentino
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(MAN)BAGS
Man bags were seen all over the runways this season. Bags could be seen in all different shapes and sizes - There was something for everyone. At Gucci, Kenzo, and Valentino, crossbody bags were a highlight to accentuate the garments walking down the runways. The fanny pack made yet another return at Lanvin - frat boys, rejoice. To no surprise, the classic weekend bag was a hit at Louis Vuitton. Oversized shopping totes walked the runways at Bottega Veneta and Gucci adding to their larger-than-life branding aesthetics. ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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AVIATOR Photographed by Daniel Estrada
Models: Parker Sloan Leiro & Pavel Sankovich Beauty: Noelle Torrillo Stylists: Adi Cohen & Mariel Battle Production Assistant: Tara Wilson
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ON PAVEL PANTS H&M BELT Model’s own BOOTS Doc Marten ON PARKER SUNGLASSES Alexander McQueen TANK TOP H&M PANTS H&M SHOES Steve Madden
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ON PAVEL HAT Army Surplice TRENCH COAT Zara ON PARKER HAT H&M TOP H&M SKIRT Forever 21 SHOES Steve Madden
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THE YSL EMPIRE By: Gillian Marton
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Yves Saint Laurent, a French luxury empire, is embodied by its sharp and sophisticated ensembles. Founded by Yves Saint Laurent himself and Pierre Berge in 1961, Saint Laurent established his own design house after his departure from Dior. In doing so, he designed versatile, ready-to-wear ensembles. Throughout the early stages of his career, Saint Laurent released designs of safari jackets, fitted pants and the infamous tuxedo suit for women, otherwise known as “Le Smoking.” Drawing upon inspiration from men’s fashion, the tuxedo quickly became a staple amongst women as it drew upon strong and sharp elements. Known for bringing art and fashion together, Saint Laurent is one of the first designers to display this combination on the runway. Throughout the 60’s and 70’s, artists such as Andy Warhol, Van Gogh and Georges Braque influenced his collections- specifically his Mondrian collection, which took the runway by storm in 1965. Saint Laurent’s tendency to push the boundaries has never succumb to societal norms. Rioting in the form of fashion, he designed many transparent and revealing pieces, encouraging fairness amongst men and women. Meanwhile, he very much focused on creating ready-to-wear pieces, in addition to Haute Couture, prompting him to open a boutique named Rive Gauche. The brand continued to grow, appealing to both men and women as fragrances and cosmetics were sold during the 1980s and 1990s. However, the empire faced changes as it was sold to Sanofi, a French multinational pharmaceutical company, in which Alber Elbaz contributed to the brand by continuing to design ready-to-wear looks. Hedi Slimane, a French photographer and fashion designer was then appointed the collections and art director in 1997, in which he successfully released YSL Rive Gauche Homme. Slimane brought wild success to YSL as he established and revamped staple products. Focusing on ready-to-wear, the empire’s runway collections often included wearable and real116
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istic ensembles, typically accompanied by impeccable tailoring. Simple articles of clothing such as bombers, denim, and fitted jackets were transformed into luxury pieces, making the brand attainable yet sophisticated. Further improving the fashion house, Slimane started designing clothing for a younger audience, often implementing an edgy aesthetic. In doing so, the popularity of menswear increased. After brining much prosperity and the redefinition of a brand to the YSL empire, Slimane left the company and Gucci bought the brand. However, after Saint Laurent’s health began to decline, he seized the couture element of his empire, leaving Stefano Pilati in charge of the infamous ready-to-wear category of the brand. Eventually, Slimane returned to revitalize the couture line, in which he then left once again, leaving Anthony Vaccarello in charge as Creative Director. Vaccarello’s first show for Saint Laurent Paris took place in Spring 2017, in which he incorporated black leather, blue jeans, and innovative heels, showcasing the YSL logo for his womenswear show. His designs were constructed with an edgy flare, often incorporating metallic accents, cultivating the perfect balance between high-fashion, and ready-to-wear street style which he incorporated into his menswear designs, as well. Channeling the roots of YSL, Vaccarello also employs masculine elements in women’s clothing, and vice versa. This concept is executed through the design of various cargo pants, utility jackets, leather designs, and classic tuxedos. In an attempt to constantly remain relevant, Vaccarello has constructed numerous campaigns to advertise both men and women’s wear. In the spring 2018 Saint Laurent fashion show, which took place in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, Vaccarello flawlessly carried out an extravagant yet effective show. Containing ninety-one different looks, he pulled inspiration from Moroccan style - utilizing leather shorts, embellished tuxedos, and short wedding dresses with leather accents. The wide variety of pieces
in the collection, ranging from flowy blouses to sequined dresses for women, represented the escapism and liberalism that the Saint Laurent brand was based upon. He also made it a point to include a diverse group of models, conveying a message of acceptance to audience members. Saint Laurent menswear followed suit showcasing a large array of models and the same fabrications as well. Capturing the provocation and deviance from societal norms that Saint Laurent had originally instilled in his brand, Vaccarello’s productions and collections have accurately captured the essence of Saint Laurent, providing a promising future for the luxury empire.
Saint Laurent Menswear A/W ‘17 by Anthony Vaccarello. Campaign art “#YSL05” by Collier Schorr.
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Hedi Slimane photographed by Karl Lagerfeld for V Magazine
moving forward By: Lauren Edmonds
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YSL without yves
since Yves Saint Laurent’s passing and hedi slimane’s departure from the French Fashion house, anthony vaccarello has proven to be the change of scenery that saint laurent needed
The incomparable Yves Henri Donat MathieuSaint-Laurent, or simply Yves Saint Laurent, once said “I wish I had invented the blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.” Perhaps it’s true that we’re our own worst critics, but with infamously influential collections like his SS1971 designs (the fur coat dress and strappy black platforms was iconic) it’s impossible to think the celebrated fashion house hasn’t already checked those boxes—and more! Founded in 1961, the French luxury brand flourished under the era’s artistic wave and produced some of the most distinguished ensembles to date. Since Yves Saint Laurent’s passing in 2008, the company’s coveted role of Creative Director has passed through various designers hands before finding its newest home with Anthony Vaccarello in 2016. At their Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear show, Vaccarello paid homage to Saint Laurent’s intriguing and impactful past collections in Paris. The subtle nod to visions of Saint Laurent’s past, like the revamping of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 classic female tuxedo jacket, weren’t lost on long time followers of the brand and illustrates the fashion giant’s introspective approach to modern fashion. From the haute couture looks reminiscent of Hedi Silmane to the cinched belts originally found in former director Stefano Pilati’s Spring 2005 collection, Vaccarello’s latest vision highlights the best parts of Saint Laurent’s style history. Now in the brand’s 57th consecutive year, Saint Laurent continues to create that seamless mixture of “expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity” in their collections and have found multiple other qualities over the years, too. Timeless.
Anthony Vaccarello photographed at his second Saint Laurent Paris show
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RIVINGTON Photographed by: DANIEL ESTRADA
Model: ALEX BAKALOV Stylists: ADI COHEN, VANESSA LANG, ALLY MOTUSH, & DELANEY WILLIAMS Production Assistants: CHELSEA BECKTON & NOELLE TORRILLO
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S/S ‘18 IN SUMMARY BY: KATHERINE HIGGINS
Spring: a time for brightness, color, and the feeling of warmth. This season, vibrant colors were mixed with aesthetic messages you can clearly see in the details of every runway show. This season has everything we could ask for in a fashion week ranging from beachy vibes, to dark and contradictory messages, to an almost illegal runway show, and all the way to patriotism! The American Dream and hope for the future generations seemed to shine through as the greatest themes for menswear in New York City. Brands including Calvin Klein were found touting the stars and stripes in their carefully curated collections. Raf Simons, particularly, has stuck to his ongoing theme of American style and symbolism. He stuck with his leather and denims, similar but yet different to last season, and admitting to the fact that it was a great risk he enjoyed taking. He took a different approach to the feel of the show, locating it under a bridge where trains passed over. Police officers and the fire department had to be called but quickly reced146 DWF MAGAZINE
ed after they realized his vision was, in fact, legal. The runway did not lack the feeling of fresh and new, but it was also very apparent that the sign of the times is making its way back around. The . “Andy Warhol” vibrant prints are back on the runway and no one is disappointed by it. Versace, Calvin Klein, and Prada menswear collections, just to name a few, are some of the many inspired by the Warhol era. It is superb to see the decades so beautifully depicted and revitalized to fit the aesthetic of 2018. The 90’s also played a big role in the shows this season. Miuccia Prada designed a line of pants and jumpsuits for men that ranged from striped, to patterns and solids, showing the crowd that there are still unique shapes out there that can fit a man perfectly and still keep the old 90’s tradition alive. This year in Spring 2018 menswear, many brands stood true to what they were designing for: Spring. Michael Kors collection perfectly embodied the feeling of upcoming trips to the beach, and how to look fabulous while there.
Models were wearing bathing suits, leis, and pastel colors: all of them shouting: “summer is coming!”. The route he took could have been easily judged as sloppy or incomplete, but that was not done due to the intricate pieces that surprised us in between the beach looks including all nude and white suits tailored and cut to perfection. Paris, London, and Milan Fashion weeks were dramatic and had an abundance of variety. The amount of different patterns, colors, textures, and styles used was extraordinary. Alexander McQueen’s menswear collection in Paris was a showstopper, being one of the most Spring/Summer runways we have seen for this season. The amount of fabric, including leather, trenches, and quilts, in bright colors of pinks and reds, were only the beginning of the symbolism and depth of this show. Sarah Burton’s style is dark and dramatic (staying true to the Alexander McQueen brand), and many of her pieces were heavy and would not do well in the heat of the summer, but that didn’t stop fans from fawning all over the collection. True art doesn’t have to do with keeping to light and airy garments, but the overall feel of the show and the style. The dark black and grey tailored suits still whispered Spring as they walked the runway thanks to the underlying white lace and the jeweled double banded sandals. The beauty was in the topcoats, two specifically standing out to buyers and future wearers. One, Burton admitted, was made completely out of carpet that her models had previously walked on, true creativity. The other, a classic black that effortlessly summed up the Alexander McQueen vibe. Heading over to Milan, Dolce and Gabbana stole the hearts of viewers, appropriately, with their “Queen of Hearts” collection. It was a wild show full of prints, textures, and shapes. The amount of success awarded to both designers was tremendous due to the fact that this was their second performed show in less than 24 hours. The difference between the womenswear and menswear collection was just that, gender differentiated clothing, because the feel and the style were all completely cohesive. The men looked dynamic and unique as they strutted down the runway in metallic suits of green, red, and orange. The theme of love was a big area of focus in Milan, and especially for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana because, “you can find love anywhere” as Gabbana so effortlessly put it. Love is all you need, and what seems to be needed for our world most right now, so why not portray through the art of fashion and design? Another one of the most talked about menswear collections in Milan this year was Gucci, cre-
FASHION
ated by Alessandro Michele. It was described as “dark, mysterious, and contradictory” due to the use of Disney references, 80’s throwbacks, and the intense atmosphere of the show. The creative director decided to make the collection about the entirety of the show, and not just the garments themselves. He believed that, “it’s more than beauty, it is a state of mind. . . I wanted to stay in my aesthetic and for the audience to fully understand that with this show.” Michele, being one of the most critically acclaimed and successful designers in the business, was confident that his show would be a success even though it was different and risky. Afterwards, when talking about his message, he explained how easy it is to be taken away from who you are as a designer when putting together collections like these. He was proud to stay true to himself, and in the midst of all the chaos and commotion of the show, he didn’t falter from showing his aesthetic or his important message. London’s Spring 2018 took a slightly different approach than the rest, the overall theme and focus being the person. Each collection, both menswear and womenswear, focused on who the designer was portraying whether that be new single mother or a fifteen-year-old young teenage boy aesthetic. Many shows including Topman Design, Craig Green, and Burberry focused on the man and what he represented. The grand finale of the Burberry show, Christopher Bailey’s wrap up of 17 years as creative director was emotional and inspiring. His neon and rainbow colors on top of ponchos, kilts, topcoats, flannels, and much more was a type of autobiographical way to show how he impacted the brand within the last 17 years that is true to his design. He was able to take his past tradition and mix it with the present and the future, saying goodbye to us in a way that made an impact and will be celebrated long after his close with the Burberry brand. We are excited to see Riccardo Tisci, former creative director of Givenchy, take over and see what he can do to make the Burberry brand his own, while still keeping the tradition of Bailey’s lasting legacy. As the New Year settles in, we have all the new trends and forecasts to look forward to, and thanks to the Spring 2018 menswear shows there looks like an exciting future ahead for high end fashion and street-wear styles. New York Fashion Week always comes with its bests and worsts, but it has always accomplished to surprise and inspire us for the future of not only fashion, but the thriving of all of us as a society. We can only hope next season will do the same, until then... ISSUE 1 6: HOMME
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