DOLCE Magazine Edition 9 by Dolce Magazine

DOLCE PASSION FOR THE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY

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DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

AMUSE GUEULE

BELGIAN GASTRONOMY IS AN EXCELLENT BRAND NAME Before autumn heralds the start of our new range of trendsetting activities, such as DOLCE Trendsday at CHEF12, the DOLCE Club olive oil tasting – followed by cocktails with olive oil and an olive menu – and the flying wine-maker Shaun Crombé… we would like to pause and take a moment to think about brand Belgium. Some of the most popular searches in Google are for Belgian beers, recipes for Belgian food and Belgian waffles. Our slogan ‘passion for Belgian gastronomy’ was chosen with good reason. Now is the time to put our physically small, but gastronomically huge country in the spotlight. We may sometimes come across as being unfriendly to people from other countries who do not know us: not because we are cold, but because we are not always open enough and we sometimes fail to let others see our strengths. Modesty is second nature to most Belgians, even though we are regarded as top gastronomists in Japan, Australia, the United States and the UK! DOLCE 9 is a celebration of top Belgian gastronomy. We report on our visits to four exciting Michelin star restaurants in Knokke: each and every one a first-rate restaurant that serves sensational dishes. We also feature Bartenders-on-the-road, who create cocktails based on Belgian drinks, and Peter De Groote from Ten Dauwe, who serves Belgian sushi. You will soon be able to taste the best that Bruges has to offer at Kookeet. This issue of DOLCE gives you a little taster. The beers from Bosteels Brewery continue to inspire delicious meals and beer buffets at Rustenburg. Troubadour’s Benjamin reveals his outstanding new creations and you can read about Belgium’s finest in our report on ‘t Dreupelkot, Chez Leontine and ‘t Waterhuis a/d bierkant in Ghent. Of course, this issue wouldn’t be complete without mentioning

Kelderman, one of the country’s finest fish restaurants, which has recently had an up to date makeover. But just because we our proud of our own culinary prowess doesn’t mean that we are not interested in other cuisines. We also have a report on how Japanese restaurant Tanuki is working with a new top product: UHP lobster from Pittman Seafoods. Once more DOLCE is cooking up a storm. Ilse Duponcheel

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

COLOPHON Responsible editor Ilse Duponcheel Uitgever@dolcemagazine.be Editorial office Abelendreef 11, 8300 Knokke-Heist redactie@dolcemagazine.be www.dolcemagazine.be Publicities Tel. 0498/97 39 73 dolce.advertenties@skynet.be

A LA CARTE 6

Kelderman Fish Restaurant – innovation with respect for tradition Catering company Belgocatering has taken over

Jenever, beer and Belgian cuisine Every resident of Ghent, as well as many a tourist, is familiar with ’t Dreupelkot, Chez Leontine and ’t

top restaurant Kelderman, given it a makeover and

Waterhuis a/d Bierkant. These three businesses unite

appointed a new chef de cuisine. DOLCE paid a visit to

three of Belgium’s best-loved products: jenever, beer

taste the refreshing results.

and Belgian cuisine. More than enough reason for DOLCE to pay a visit.

The seductive beat of De Troubadour De Troubadour has long been a major player on Antwerp’s culinary stage. DOLCE visited it, taking along several top products from DOLCE’s partners. The chef’s

If you want a truly original party, look no further than the Walking Tray from Bartenders-on-the-road. This elegant way to bring snacks and drinks to your guests.

with meals. Rustenburg’s chef uses beers from Bosteels

64 68

Kids, fun and snacks Get some kids together, create a fun atmosphere and serve them Kiddibites. Success guaranteed!

The flying wine maker In South Africa, Shaun Crobé is proving that Belgians are also excellent wine makers.

DOLCE just had to try the Walking Tray experience.

Refined dining in a 15 star restaurant We all know that Bruges is a gourmet’s paradise. For the second consecutive year, the culinary event Kookeet has concentrated all this top gastronomy at just one location. It’s almost time to go and savour the best of

Bruges. Here’s a little taster.

Networking, young herring and beer ISPC is more than just a shop. As well as workshops, this

Pittman Seafoods has introduced a brand new lobster to the European market: the UHP lobster. As well as killing lobsters humanely, the UHP method also fully retains the delicate flavour of the lobster meat.

mainstream, but it does have its finger on the pulse. CHEF10 and CHEF11 proved that this is possible and

also organises events for its loyal customers. These

CHEF12 is the logical follow-up to their success.

top products and exchange ideas.

Lobsters treated with high pressure set to conquer Europe

CHEF12 focuses on innovation and top gastronomy The food and catering fair with a difference: it’s not

specialist store for cooking and catering equipment tasty events give ISPC’s customers the chance to taste

We are increasingly learning to appreciate beer, even to concoct refreshing and surprising dishes.

Cocktails on Walking Trays mobile bar, which is shaped like a large serving tray, is an

creativity did the rest.

Caterer Rustenburg opts for beer

Star studded sky above Knokke The coastal town of Knokke has no fewer than four exciting Michelin star restaurants. DOLCE visited each one and came home with four top recipes.

Partners Tel. 0473/70 90 54 advertentie@dolcemagazine.be Collaborators Jan Agten • Katia Belloy • Willem Bonneux • Michael De Lausnay • Anthony Florio • Stefanie Geerts • Eline Haesel • Christophe Lambert • Peyo Lissarrague • Henk Van Nieuwenhove • Sam Paret • Joëlle Rochette • Wouter Van Vooren • Ann Welvaert DOLCE Chefs Hugues Braekeleire Maarten du Bois Nicolas Rivière General or administrative question info@dolcemagazine.be administratie@dolcemagazine.be Lay-out and print Lowyck & Pluspoint www.lowyck.com Photos cover Anthony Florio en Jan Agten Follow DOLCE Magazine, DOLCE Club and DOLCE community on Facebook and Twitter. Subscribe for DOLCE MAGAZINE DOLCE Magazine: 5 each year Subscription for one year 45 euro (for Belgium). More information on www.dolcemagazine.be. Each separate DOLCE Magazine costs 10 euro. Nothing from this edition can be copied without permission from the responsible editor. The editor is not responsible for any consequences from implementing the recipes.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

BELGOCATERING LETS A FRESH

BREEZE BLOW THROUGH THE KELDERMAN FISH RESTAURANT

The Kelderman Restaurant is situated in a stately villa along a busy approach road in Aalst. But once you step over the threshold, you find a restful oasis behind the façade. The terrace and the beautifully landscaped garden also calm the senses. Kelderman has always been a monument to the distinguished diner from Aalst and beyond. The intention of Belgocatering was not to completely unravel the traditional fabric of the regal Lady Kelderman but to apply subtle renovations to it.

The intention of Belgocatering was not to completely unravel the traditional fabric of the regal Lady Kelderman but to apply subtle renovations to it.

In March, Belgocatering took over the renowned Kelderman fish restaurant. The entire team, except for the maître d’hôtel, has been renewed. Chef Bart Tastenhoye is allowing the fresh air of innovation to blow through the kitchen. He has rethought a lighter version of the Kelderman fish classics, which appeals to both the old and the new clientele. Text: Katia Belloy Photos: Stefanie Geerts

The distinguishing characteristics of Kelderman remain unchanged. So it remains a fish restaurant serving top-quality products. The current chef, Bart Tastenhoye, is adding fresh influences to the traditional basics of the previous chef, Hubert Kelderman. These influences make the dishes lighter and more playful. BEAUTIFUL JOURNEY After the hotel school in Koksijde, Bart first worked in renowned restaurants, such as Lipsius, Comme Chez Soi and Roland Debuyst, before heading off to France. He stayed in France longer than

anticipated but then it started itching to return to Belgium. He contacted his old colleague from Comme Chez Soi, Patrick Spiessens, now the head chef at Belgocatering. He couldn’t have chosen a better moment. With Kelderman, Belgocatering had just started up its first restaurant project and was looking for a talented chef. “I wasn’t that familiar with Belgocatering, but when this chance arose, I grabbed it with both hands,” says Bart. “I have revitalized the dishes somewhat, made them lighter with less cream and butter, less traditional. I have a great deal of respect for the traditional cuisine of Hubert Kelderman, but the younger generation eats lighter now. I have always taken as my starting point the traditional basics, albeit with an innovative touch.” We have Tastenhoye’s first year teacher to thank for the fact that Bart has ended up in the kitchen. She subjected her class to a cooking lesson, and Bart was hooked straight away. “I knew then that I wanted to be a chef. It is a passion—I wouldn’t want to do anything else.” GROWN UP ALONGSIDE THE HOUSE Besides Bart, the entire Kelderman team has been renewed. The only person remaining from the old guard is the well-known maître d’hôtel, Peter Van den Driesschen, who has grown up with the house, as it were.” Peter comes from an hotelier’s family and went to hotel school in Koksijde. Hubert Kelderman was his first employer, and Peter remained by his side until Hubert Kelderman left the business.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Wild sockeye salmon in marinade, graffiti of aubergine with anchovies, rocket sorbet A piece of wild, sockeye salmon, marinated Caviare of aubergines: 2 aubergines 4 anchovy fillets thyme bay leaf garlic salt and pepper squid ink Slice open the 2 aubergines lengthwise and grill the cut surfaces to produce a quadrille pattern. Add thyme, bay leaf, garlic, salt and pepper. Reunite the two halves, wrap in aluminium foil and place in a 160°C oven for 90 minutes. After baking, scrape the roasted aubergine flesh out the skin. Puree half of it with the anchovies and some of the squid ink. Puree the other half without the ink and the anchovies.

Rocket ice: 1 dl sugar syrup 1 bunch of blanched rocket 1/3 bunch of raw rocket lemon juice 1 cl of shallot and white wine reduction Mix all ingredients and make sorbet. Vinaigrette: dill spring onions 1/5 green shiso juice 1/5 ponzu 1/5 yuzu juice 2/5 grape seed oil Mix all ingredients.

Rocket crème: 60 g rocket 10 g egg white 170 g grape seed oil 1 tablespoon of Chardonnay vinegar 1 tablespoon of sushi vinegar

“I have become entangled this house. I have worked here for 25 years now; it is like my child in many ways,” says Peter. How does it feel to work for a new boss? “In times of renewal, you are always a bit anxious initially about how it will turn out, but it has gone incredibly smoothly. Belgocatering has engaged a very capable and sympathetic chef, and the contact with the company is excellent. What has an enormous impact on the restaurant is the enormous Belgocatering ‘machine’ – and I mean that positively. It has many advantages, the input is unbelievable. On the basis of personnel, purchasing. If a co-worker is ill or on holiday, we can immediately count on a replacement from the Belgocatering team. Things that we were previously unable to afford are now affordable. And Director Bartel Dewulf’s vision is fantastic. I salute his management capabilities.”

says Peter. “People often have an incomplete perception of catering. At Belgocatering, the gastronomy is of the highest level.”

Mix all ingredients in the Thermomix and garnish with grape seed oil and mayonnaise.

The maître is also full of praise for his new chef. “Bart brings innovation. Hubert was a dazzling chef but very classical. People want to eat lighter; they are returning to the essence of things. Bart can highlight the natural quality of the products. He is also a very good saucier. We did not want to snub the loyal clientele by introducing a totally different cuisine but wanted instead to make a few subtle adjustments.” The completely renovated meeting rooms and separate smoking room upstairs are also new. And anyone who lives within a fiftykilometre radius no longer needs a designated driver. A taxi service, with an authentic Jaguar, will take you home safely for a small fee.

GASTRONOMY AT ITS PINNACLE Kelderman remains a distinctive entity within the Belgocatering group. “A restaurant of this level is an impressive signboard for Belgocatering,”

www.belgocatering.be www.visrestaurant-kelderman.be

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Grilled monkfish and cecina, reduction of tomato and oregano, colourful garden herb coulis Brunoise celery, courgette, fennel, cucumber and candied tomato. Braise. Cut slices of cecina; roll them up and chop. Fillet the monkfish and soak in brine for 6 minutes; rinse and grill. Then, vacuum pack it and cook at 62°C for 8 minutes.

Fresh herb coulis: 10 g lava aster 10 g parsley 5 g tarragon 5 g basil 5 g parsley

Cherry sorbet with kriek beer, lime macaroons, coriander sponge and marshmallows Sorbet: 1 kg cherries 1 bottle of old kriek 0.75 l sugar syrup 50 g lemon juice Mix all ingredients and make sorbet.

Marshmallow: 440 g sugar 200 g water 60 g glucose Bring to 127°C. Pour on 3 whipped egg whites. Add 11 sheets of melted gelatine.

Process with 2 dl chicken bouillon. Cook down tomatoes, shallots, onion, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and oregano, keeping under the boiling point. Sieve and puree with a tablespoon of lecithin.

Coat a courgette flower in tempura batter and deep fry.

Macaroons: 250 g almond powder 250 g icing sugar 90 g egg white Beat the egg whites with a sugar syrup made with 62 g of water at 118°C. Add the almond powder and bake for 10 minutes at 155°C. Lime crème: 160 g lime juice 8 g lime zest 240 g sugar Mix and bring to boil. Cook with 225 g eggs until crème (as in a crème patissière). Remove from the heat and add 60 g of butter and mix. Cherry marinade: 2 l red wine 7.5 dl sugar syrup zests of 6 oranges lemon juice Boil, allow to cool, pour over the cherries and vacuum seal. Sponge: 125 g egg white 80 g broyage 80 g sugar 80 g egg yellow 40 g flour 1 bunch of coriander Mix all ingredients together and allow to rest for 1 hour. Sieve. Put into espuma bottles with 3 gas cartridges. Place in the microwave on 1200 W for 55 seconds. Recipes: Bart Tastenhoye (Kelderman) Photos: Stefanie Geerts

DOLCE

THE SEDUCTIVE BEAT OF

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

DE TROUBADOUR

De Troubadour has been entertaining fans of good cuisine for more than 30 years, under the expert leadership of the jovial John Verbeek. He has been assisted at the oven by Benjamin Van Bogaert for seven years. This equally charming chef from Flemish Brabant learnt his trade in the hotel school in Hasselt, and is not afraid to pull a prank. When he told us he is forty, we didn’t believe him for a minute. He is as sharp as a knife and brings a bit of rock-’n-roll to the kitchen. It’s not just his goatee beard, but above all the enthusiastic way he juggles with products and techniques. This is a young, up and coming talent with an eye for detail.

INSISTING ON QUALITY PRODUCTS The dishes that Benjamin prepared for us contained several striking products. The new Didess kroepoek crackers from Didess immediately caught our eye. “It would be impossible to prepare kroepoek crackers from a to z in a kitchen like ours. But these kroepoek are of exceptionally high quality. You just have to deep fry them for a great result. Not only are they decorative, they’re delicious too! I finished off today’s recipes with saffron, mocha, and rose water kroepoek crackers. You would sooner expect to find rosewater in sweets, but the taste pallet is perfect. It really is a first-rate product.”

NATURE AT ITS BEST

‘Quand c’est noir, c’est cuit’. This motto is on the menu of De Troubadour, which has long been a player on Antwerp’s culinary stage. This restaurant in Driekoningenstraat in Berchem is one of the pioneers of ‘bistronomy’, a new eating culture which is very popular in Europe. The chefs take the time to do everything properly, and everyone does their best. Text: Peyo Lissarrague Photos: Wim Kempenaers

“I grew up in the countryside. At home, we had rabbits and chickens wandering about and sometimes a pig was slaughtered. I picked fruit from our own fruit trees. I still think it is very important to know where products come from.” Many of today’s chefs swear by market-fresh products, and Benjamin is very aware of the ingredients he uses. He collects all his fruit and vegetables from the farm, takes the trouble to spend hours cooking his belly of pork to perfection and conserves the duck himself. But isn’t it difficult to work this way when everything has to be done quickly? And is he never tempted to work with prepared products? “If products have been made in an artisanal manner and comply with the strict quality requirements we set for ourselves, I’m happy to use them in my kitchen. For example, we do not make our own bread – only star restaurants can afford to do that. It is also more logical to buy some products, such as jam. The important thing is to choose the very best quality.”

Benjamin Van Bogaert: ‘If products are made in an artisanal way and comply with the strict quality requirements that we set for ourselves, I am happy to use them in my kitchen’ Another 100 % Belgian delicacy is the artisanal bilberry jam from Kortrijk which Benjamin uses in his cheese dishes. It has no preservatives and little sugar which gives great combinations. We were presented with a feast of blue cheese with figs and black pepper, brie coated with breadcrumbs with apricot and cumin, a surprising flambéed goat’s cheese with rhubarb and Muscat wine. All these luscious ingredients were beautifully arranged on a piece of tree bark, found by the chef himself in the nearby Rivierenhof park. Now there’s a regional product!

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Parmesan and rocket mezzaluna, tomato and hibiscus jelly, watermelon, crème of peas, mini girolles and coffee olive oil Tomato jelly: Mix tomatoes with salt until smooth. Leave to drain for 24 hours in a muslin cloth. Bring the resulting bouillon to the boil with agar agar. Infuse the hibiscus tea for 10 minutes, sieve and let it stiffen in your chosen mould. Crème of peas: Mix boiled peas with bouillon to a smooth crème and bind lightly with xantana, season with salt and pepper. Coffee-olive oil: Mix together 1 dl olive oil, balsamic vinegar, balsamic syrup, 10 g ground coffee (Indian monsooned malabar from Viva Sara). Cut melon in desired shape. Fry mini girolles in purified butter and herbs. Cook mezzaluna (Altoni) for 4 minutes.

EXOTIC BELGIUM De Troubadour deliberately chooses Belgian produce, even when it comes to more exotic products like tea or coffee. Belgians love a nice cup of coffee, so it’s no surprise that there are many coffee-roasting houses in our country. Benjamin has found something to his taste in West Flanders. He uses a rich and intense Kenyan coffee from roasting house Viva Sara as a basis for his dessert. Of course, the menu would not be complete without a taste of Italy. The artisanal mezzaluna are really the crème de la crème, and are delicious with Benjamin’s mouth-watering water melon salad. This fresh pasta, prepared according to the rules of the art, were not discovered on the banks of the Arno, but in the city on the Schelde just around the corner, at the famous Antwerp pasta producer Altoni.

www.detroubadour.be

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Variations on cheese: ice of Pas de Bleu with figs and black pepper (Belberry), goat’s cheese brulée with rhubarb and Muscat wine (Belberry) and kroepoek cracker of saffron (Didess). Brie and pistachio croquette with apricot and cumin (Belberry).

Ice of pas de bleu: 375 ml milk 150 ml cream 401 g glucose 60 g cheese stabiliser Goat’s cheese brulée:

Structures of coffee (Viva Sara): coffee mousse, ristretto jelly, kroepoek crackers of mocha (Didess), sponge cake (Didess) and stuffed raspberries with white chocolate mousse Coffee mousse: 5 dl milk 60 g broken coffee beans (Kenya AA top Viva Sara) 200 g sugar 1 dl cream (20%) 6 egg yolks 5 leaves of gelatine 1.25 l whipped cream Soak the gelatine. Boil 100 g sugar to form caramel and quench it with the hot cooking cream. Beat the egg yolks with the rest of the sugar au ruban. Bring milk to the boil and mix with the ruban and caramel and add gelatine. Cool down, stirring regularly until the mixture starts drooping. Fold the thickened cream in and let it stiffen.

Dust the goat’s cheese with fine semolina sugar and burn as a crème brulée. Brie and pistachio croquette: Breadcrumb the brie à l’anglaise with panko and fine pistachio. Deep fry at 170° C.

Bring the coffee, sugar and agar agar to the boil. Add the Drambuie as last. White chocolate mousse with kaffir lime: 2 dl cream 300 g white chocolate 5 kaffir lime leaves 1.5 leaf gelatine 4 egg whites 5 dl cream Bring cream to the boil, infuse with kaffir lime leaves, sieve and add chocolate and gelatine. Beat the egg white with a little sugar. Beat the cream until thick. Fold the cream and egg white slowly into the cooled mixture. When the mousse is stiff, fill the fresh raspberries with it.

Ristretto jelly: Add Sponge cake and kroepoek coffee crackers (Didess). 4 dl strong coffee 40 g sugar 4 g agar agar 4 cl Drambuie

Add atsina cress, lime-cress and powder of dried orange peel. Recipes: Benjamin Van Bogaert (De Troubadour) Photos: Wim Kempenaers Ingredients: Altoni (www.altoni.be), Viva Sara (www.vivasara.be), Belberry (www.belberry.com), Didess (www.didess.com)

DOLCE

KOOKEET 2012 REFINED DINING IN A

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

15 STAR RESTAURANT AN OPEN AIR EVENT IN THE HEART OF BRUGES The first edition of Kookeet in October 2011 was a gigantic success. The organisers were expecting 20,000 visitors, but three times that number turned up. The citizens of Bruges, foodies and accidental passers-by were wildly enthusiastic about this brand new culinary event, and not just because of the beautiful weather, which just happened to be perfect for enjoying food outside. Kookeet seduces visitors with a very special concept: making the very best of Bruges’s gastronomy available to everyone. This project is the brainchild of three star chef Geert Van Hecke, who, together with chocolate maker Dominique Persoone and restaurant owner Patrick De Vos, is one of the three innovators behind Kookeet. THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME What makes Kookeet so unique is the sheer excellence of the cuisine; only top chefs can participate. With one or more Michelin stars, a Bib Gourmand or a high score in GaultMillau, all 29 of the participating restaurants represent the very best gastronomy that Bruges has to offer. No fewer than ten of Bruges’ stars will shine during this second Kookeet event, including De Karmeliet (***), Hertog Jan (***), Danny Horseele (**), Aneth (*) and Sans Cravate (*). Bruges is more than just a cultural and tourist attraction: Kookeet proves that Bruges is also a Mecca for culinary pilgrims.

From 29 September until 1 October, for the second time, the city of Bruges and Bruges Plus vzw will play host to Kookeet, a top culinary event which has been eagerly awaited for months by gourmets everywhere. For three days, Bruges Market will be transformed into an open air gastronomic restaurant, where each tent will house a Belgian top chef making exquisite dishes à la minute. This year’s special guest of honour is Dutch star chef Jonnie Boer. With Jonnie and his Belgian colleagues there will be no fewer than fifteen Michelin stars shining in Bruges. We think this is reason enough to mark this – free! – event in your diary.

Bruges lives and breathes gastronomy. In addition to a host of top restaurants, Bruges is also home to many other culinary highpoints: world-class chocolate confectioners and pastry-makers; trend-setting delicatessens and caterers; and last, but not least, Spermalie and Ter Groene Poorte, two renowned hotel schools which send a fresh batch of highly trained culinary talents into the wide world each year. This second Kookeet event will focus on these three aspects of Bruges’s gastronomic heritage. The seventh year students of both hotel schools will work on this project again with their customary enthusiasm. As well as first class restaurants, Kookeet 2012 also features top caterers such as D’s Deldycke and Traiteur Geers. Thanks to the participation of Tom van Loock (Patisserie Academie), Servaas van Mullem (Patisserie

Salon Servaas van Mullem) and chocolate guru Dominique Persoone (The Chocolate Line) Kookeet 2012 is also going to be heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. A FIRST FOR BELGIUM: JONNIE BOER The fact that Kookeet 2011 was a first-rate crowd puller did not go unnoticed abroad. Foreign top chefs see Kookeet as the perfect platform to introduce their cooking to a wider audience. This year, Kookeet will impress visitors with a very special guest of honour: Jonnie Boer from the three star restaurant De Librije in Zwolle. Sergio Herman from Oud Sluis and Jonnie Boer are the only three star chefs in the Netherlands. Together with his wife Thérèse, Jonnie also runs a successful two star restaurant (Librije’s Zusje), a five star luxury hotel, a catering company and cooking and wine studio, and a delicatessen. This ambitious couple is so popular with our northern neighbours that they have their own reality soap on television.

Thanks to the participation of De Karmeliet (***), Hertog Jan (***), Danny Horseele (**), Aneth (*) and Sans Cravate (*) no fewer than ten of Bruges’s top stars will be shining at Kookeet Jonnie Boer’s participation in Kookeet is a first for our country. “This is the first time that I have taken part in an event like this in Belgium”, said Jonnie Boer. “When the organisers asked me, I had to think for a moment. It’s a three hour drive from Zwolle to Bruges. On the other hand, we have a lot of Belgian visitors to our restaurant and they are always nice people. We thought that participating in Kookeet was a perfect way to promote our company in Belgium. This event has great allure, because only top restaurants may participate. Also, not only are there a lot of visitors, but they are also very knowledgeable and discriminating: we have seen in our restaurant that Belgian guests really can appreciate our work.”

Text: Ann Welvaert Photos: Kookeet

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Jonnie Boer will serve oysters in sand at Kookeet. “This dish really exemplifies what we do”, said Jonnie Boer. “I prefer to work with local products and to keep everything as pure as possible. I use contemporary techniques, but the product always comes first. We don’t use any tricks.” FREE COOKING DEMONSTRATIONS With Jonnie Boer participating in Kookeet, no fewer than fifteen Michelin stars will be shining brightly at Bruges Market! This may sound expensive and exclusive, but fortunately it is not. Kookeet takes pride in making the best of Bruges (and this year, the Netherlands as well) accessible to everyone. You can stroll round this stylish tent village for free, and you can taste dishes for only 3, 6, or at most 9 euros. Like any à la carte restaurant, you are free to decide how many and which dishes to try. Options range from an aperitif with just one snack to a three-day culinary adventure in which you can try all the top dishes. Of course, there is a host of options in between. Anything’s possible!

Apart from Sergio Herman from Oud Sluis, Jonnie Boer is the only three star chef in the Netherlands Just like last year, you can attend free demonstrations by top chefs between the culinary treats. On Sunday 30 September, there will be a workshop by Jonnie Boer and a demo by Henk Van Oudenhove from Sans Cravate*. On Monday 1 October, entrepreneur Geert Van Hecke from De Karmeliet*** will give a demonstration. In addition to the various cooking demonstrations, Kookeet 2012 will also have wine tastings. All demonstrations will be held at the Provincial Court, directly accessible from the tent village on the market. SEDUCTIVELY DELICIOUS PARTY FOR THE PEOPLE The way to the heart is through the stomach, and Kookeet has made the citizens of Bruges love their city even more – after all they are true gourmets. With more than 60,000 enthusiastic visitors, Kookeet 2011 was a bustling public party; but one with first-class gastronomy. The people of Bruges, foodies and accidental passers-by were thinking longingly about this three-day culinary extravaganza for weeks afterwards. Soon these visitors will return. Thanks to word of mouth advertising, many others will also be counting the days to Kookeet 2012 with impatience. The atmosphere will be made complete by the music which will accompany Kookeet 2012.

www.kookeet.be

EVEN MORE TO EXPERIENCE IN BRUGES Elements festival/Saturday 22 September 2012 Music / open air dj event with five stages and more than 40 acts Where: Stal Tillegem, Torhoutse Steeenweg 446, Bruges www.elementsfestival.be Jazz Brugge/4 to 7 October Organised by De Werf

Fresh salad of baby tomatoes, grown by Bart Praet in our own greenhouse, with African citrus marigolds and ice-cold sour tomato bouillon Ingredients (Serves 4)

Choc’in Brugge/from 3 November Organised by Bruges Tourist Board Zandfeesten/Sunday 23 September 2012 This enormous antiques and bric-à-brac market has become internationally famous over the years. This popular event is loved by both passionate collectors and interested tourists. Where: ’t Zand, Koning-Albertpark, Beursplein, Bruges Fantastic Film Festival Bruges/25 October to 3 November Razor Reel Fantastic Film Festival www.rrfff.be For more information on activities in Bruges, please see: http://events.brugge.be

10 different sorts of mini tomatoes for each person - White cherry - Black cherry - Green grape - Isis candy - Olive tomato - Millefleur - Tigerette 1 kg beef tomatoes 10 g coarse salt 100 g fresh Chavroux goats’ cheese 12 pickled onions 12 African citrus marigolds (in 3 colours) 12 young nasturtium leaves 4 tablespoons olive oil 8 g Maldon salt Preparation

A MOUTH-WATERING À-LA-CARTE MENU De Librije (***/**) De Karmeliet (***) Hertog Jan (***) Danny Horseele (**) Aneth (*) Sans Cravate (*) De Visscherie Den Gouden Karpel Guillaume ’t Zwaantje Patrick Devos Den Dyver Zeno Chez Olivier ’t Pandreitje Tête Pressée

Goffin Kok au Vin Assiette Blanche Pannenhuis ‘t Stil Ende Rock-Fort Bistro Refter La Tâche Tanuki The Chocolate Line Patisserie Salon Servaas van Mullem Patisserie Acadamie D’s Deldycke traiteurs Traiteur Geers

Rinse and peel the cherry tomatoes. Cut the beef tomatoes in 4 and mix, add the salt and leave to drain in a muslin cloth. Keep the juice in the refrigerator, so that it is ice cold. Mash the fresh goats’ cheese with some salt to form a rich cream and rub it through a sieve. Cut the pickled onions into thin slices. Presentation Place in a deep plate. At the bottom of the plate make a circle with the crème of goats’ cheese. Place the mini tomatoes on top, mixed together to bring out all the different colours. Place the onion rings and three African citrus marigolds between the tomatoes and decorate with the young nasturtium leaves. Season the dish with coarse salt and sprinkle with olive oil. Place the tomato juice in a small jug and serve separately around the tomatoes. Recipe: Gert De Mangeleer (Hertog Jan) Photo: Kristof Vrancken

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Turbot cooked on the bone, white Mechelen asparagus and Zeebrugge prawns with béarnaise and black truffles On the beach: goose liver, oysters and Oloroso Goose liver: 250 g pure goose liver 15 g Mac Vin 5 g cognac 2 g coloured salt 2 g salt silver spray

Sand: ½ pack riso nero ½ pack risotto rice ginger root powder vinegar powder salt Crème of Oloroso: 1 bottle Oloroso sherry mascarpone salt lemon juice lemon zest

Goose liver: Marinate the goose liver in the Mac Vin, cognac, salt and coloured salt for at least twelve hours. Place in a vacuum bag and make a vacuum. Place the goose liver in the Roner at 52°C for 25 minutes. Pour the contents into a pointed sieve and let the goose liver drain until all the fat has gone. Then place the goose liver in a bowl and allow to cool. Transfer the goose liver to a piping bag and knead the bag thoroughly. Fill the oyster shell moulds. Place the moulds in the cooler until the little shells are firm enough to remove from the moulds and arrange on a platter. Spray them silver with silver spray. Sand: Cook the rice until done. Drain and rinse well. Divide the rice over several plates and let it dry in the oven at 60°C. When the rice is dry, it can be puffed in oil at 200°C. Remove the rice quickly so that it is just puffed. Let it drain and cool down on kitchen roll. Make the sand by grinding the rice in a blender until fine and season the sand with vinegar powder, ginger root powder and salt. Crème of Oloroso: Place the sherry in a pan and reduce down to a fourth. Leave half of the reduced sherry to one side (this will be the marinade for the oysters). Add mascarpone to the other half, season to taste with salt, and add the juice and zest of a lemon.

Oysters: Gillardeau oysters no. 2 crème of Oloroso oyster foam liquid from oysters shavings of oyster lecithin salt water pickled sushi ginger 20 g pickled sushi ginger

Beetroots: small beetroots salt peppercorns bay leaf beetroot juice sweet and sour pickles To garnish: 1 small bowl of samphire cress blue ankums borage

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Preparation

4 pieces of turbot weighing 250 g 100 g peeled prawns 1 kg asparagus AA+ olive oil mild white wine vinegar pepper, salt, finely chopped chives

Fry the turbot in olive oil and place in the oven at 140°C. Cook 8 of the asparagus in boiling water until done, cut the rest into thin julienne strips, season with pepper, salt, olive oil, vinegar and chives. Dress as shown in photo.

Béarnaise: 2 tablespoons Madeira 2 tablespoons truffle juice 10 g grated truffles 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons water 50 g purified butter lemon juice

Béarnaise: Beat the egg yolks lightly over a low flame with the water and Madeira, add butter, season with pepper and salt and truffle juice. Add grated truffles and a little dash of lemon.

Recipe: Geert Van Hecke (De Karmeliet) Photo: De Karmeliet

Oysters: Prick the oysters open, save the liquid and pour it through a sieve (it will be needed for the next recipe). Remove the oysters immediately with a pricker (we will use the shavings for the foam). Marinate the oysters in the reduced – cooled down - sherry for at least 2 hours. Cut the oysters in half. Oyster foam: Mix the oyster liquid with the oyster shavings and blend with a hand blender until smooth. Add lecithin and salt water and make a foam using the hand blender. Pickled sushi ginger: Slice the ginger into thin strips (julienne). Beetroots: Cook the beetroots in beetroot juice until done, with salt, peppercorns and bay leaf. Peel the beetroots and place them in a vacuum bag together with the sweet and sour pickles for one day. Use nitrogen to make ‘small rocks’. To garnish Place the dishes on a plate and garnish with 3 or 4 sprigs of samphire cress, blue ankums and borage.

Recipe: Jonnie Boer (De Librije) Photo: De Librije

LOBSTERS TREATED WITH HIGH PRESSURE AIR

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

ARE CONQUERING EUROPE

UHP LOBSTER – A HUMANE AND ENVIRONMENTALLYFRIENDLY VERSION OF THE CANADIAN DELICACY

Pittman Seafoods of Zeebrugge is a wholesale company that has worked with frozen lobster for over 22 years. Canada has long been known for its sustainable and ecologically aware fishing industry. Pittman Seafoods maintain close contact with Gourmet Chef Packers, a Canadian lobster processing company with a Japanese owner. This company has a wealth of expertise in the discerning Japanese market and wants to use this knowledge to introduce new products onto the European market. Now UHP lobster is being introduced here; these lobsters have been killed humanely and transported in an environmentally-friendly way. Taste is also important of course, and these lobsters taste every bit as good as lobsters that have been transported live.

The lobster is first put into a comatose state before being killed by a blast of ultra high pressure air. This takes just a few seconds, and is a world away from cutting a living lobster in half UHP stands for Ultra High Pressure. This method has many advantages. First of all, it kills all germs, so that the product has a longer shelf life. The lobster meat can be removed easily from the shell, it does not stick and retains its original shape. The higher meat yield is also an enormous benefit. NO UNNECESSARY STRESS

Pittman Seafoods is launching a brand new lobster onto the European market: the UHP lobster. As well as being a humane method of killing this animal, the UHP method also guarantees that the delicious lobster flesh retains its full flavour. Text: Maarten du Bois Photos: Pittman Seafoods

“The lobster is first put into a comatose state before being killed by a blast of ultra high pressure air. This takes just a few seconds and is a world away from cutting a living lobster in half” said Joke and Pascal from Pittman Seafoods. “Also, living lobsters must travel long distances from their starting point in Canada to consumers’ plates in Belgium. Being packed in boxes in wet newspaper causes them unnecessary stress. Other disadvantages are the high CO2 emissions and higher fuel use. An airplane uses more fuel per kilo of product than a ship.”

UHP lobster is completely user-friendly. The intestinal canal and intestines have already been removed. All you have to do is add seasoning and pop it into the oven at 180°C. You can buy the peeled tails separately or with claw, all vacuum-packed. The range also includes half lobsters in their shell. The product is pure and 100% natural, without additives such as phosphates. NETWORKING AND CONTACTS Pittman is the exclusive distributer for the entire European continent. A strong advantage is their extensive network and range of contacts. They focus on both food service and retailers. Delhaize will shortly start selling half lobsters in their shells, so that individual consumers can also enjoy this top product. Distribution for restaurants will be taken care of by specialised fish wholesalers, such as Chef’s Secret in Zeebrugge. This company has years of experience with living lobsters, but are firm supporters of new techniques and innovative products.

www.pittmanseafoods.com

THE JAPANESE DREAM

TANUKI, DISHES FROM THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN

Because the people at Pittman like to know what their product is worth compared to other products on the market, they take their new products to restaurants such as Tanuki, Rock Fort or Sel Gris to test and assess them together with chefs. DOLCE set off with Pittman Seafoods to Tanuki, a restaurant in Bruges, where chef Ivan Verhelle made delicious dishes with the lobsters. Text: Maarten du Bois Photos: Wouter Van Vooren

Ivan Verhelle and his wife run the marvellous Japanese restaurant Tanuki in Oude Gentweg in Bruges. To say that Ivan is a remarkable man would be an understatement. During his education at the hotel school in Hasselt he had to choose a restaurant in which to do his traineeship. Back then, in the 1980s, he chose to learn his trade within a 30 kilometre radius, but inspired by innovative chefs, such as Cas Spijkers and Willy Slawinsky, the young chef decided to spread his wings further. Encouraged by the interest shown in him by the chef of Kikkoman, a restaurant in Cologne, Ivan had a flash of inspiration: he would go to Japan.

Ivan: “In theory it all sounds great: ‘Cuisine du terroir’ and ‘local’. In practise it soon turned out that you need to get your products from half of Flanders. I work a lot with tuna that comes from far away. I have stopped using blue fin tuna. The wild blue fin is overfished and the farmed tuna does not have the same quality. I wanted to work with living lobster for Kookeet, but I soon realised that it would be too time-consuming to prepare for so many people in such a short space of time. When Pascal and Joke from Pittman Seafoods walked into my restaurant with the UHP lobsters it was a Godsend. I really enjoy experimenting with them.”

FROM CRAFTSMANSHIP TO CONVENIENCE

PURE AND AUTHENTIC

Because the Japanese consulate only offered internships for artisans, such as pottery makers and architects, it took a long time before he was given the go ahead. Before he could leave, however, a letter arrived from the government that shattered Ivan’s dream of living in the land of the rising sun: he had been called up for military service. Shortly afterwards he met Linda, and after completing his military service they travelled together to Japan, where they lived for two years. Upon returning to Belgium, Ivan worked in Le Fox in De Panne, Au Vigneron in Oostende and Daitokai in Frankfurt. After their final job in De Vasquez in Bruges, Ivan and Linda were ready to make the leap to being self-employed. Tanuki, which means something like ‘racoon’ in Japanese, became the name of a successful formula that has continued until today.

“The half UHP lobster is perfect for my Japanese stew or for the special recipe in which I cook the lobster with panko, yuzu and miso au gratin. I use the vacuum packaged tails with claw, both already peeled, in other dishes. I don’t see any downside – only benefits. I don’t need to have living lobsters in stock, and so I never run out of lobster. The meat doesn’t stick to the shells, the lobster meat practically slips out, so there is no messing around either in the kitchen or at the table. If you are cooking for an odd number of people, you are not left with half a lobster, and you also know beforehand how much it is going to cost. What we are seeing here is part of a continuing evolution from craftsmanship to convenience. UHP lobsters fit perfectly with everything Japanese cooking stands for: authentic products in their purest form.”

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Lobster no sunomono オマール海老の酢の物 Salad of Canadian lobster with wakame, cucumber and rice vinegar Ingredients (Serves 4)

Preparation

4 half (UHP) lobsters 1/2 cucumbers (150 g) 10 g wakame 50 g radishes sesame seeds a few chives

Vacuum cook the lobsters for 4 minutes and leave to cool at room temperature. Peel half the cucumber and cut in half lengthways. Remove the seeds and cut into fine slices. Sprinkle with salt and mix. Squeeze the liquid out with your hands after a few minutes. Slice the radish finely, sprinkle with salt and mix. Leave for a few minutes and then press liquid out by hand. Soak the wakame in cold water for five minutes until it swells up, strains and press excess water out gently. Cut the lobster into bite-size pieces. Mix the ingredients for the basic marinade and stir to dissolve sugar. Set in the fridge. Then mix all the ingredients for the dressing and bring it almost to the boil while beating, bind and remove from heat. Continue to beat, strain and place in fridge. Marinate all the ingredients just before serving for one minute each separately and for one minute in the basic marinade. Let them drain well afterwards.

For the basic marinade: 200 ml Japanese rice vinegar 100 ml hot water 60 g sugar For the dressing: 100 ml basic marinade 3 egg yolks 5 g dashi grains To bind: 10g corn flour dissolved in 30 ml vinegar marinade

Arrange all the ingredients decoratively on a plate. Serve the dressing separately in a bowl with a spoon. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Garnish with the chives.

www.tanuki.be

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Lobster no “Miso-yaki” オマール海老の味噌焼き Canadian lobster with miso and panko au gratin

Lobster chiri nabe オマール海老のちり鍋 Canadian lobster from Japan Popular one-pan meal with lobster, vegetables and udon noodles.

Preparation

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Preparation

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Defrost the lobsters. Remove the leaves from the cabbage, cut them into coarse pieces and blanch. Peel the carrot and cook it whole dente, then cut into slanted slices 1cm thick. Clean the leeks, wash them and cut them into slanted slices 1 cm thick. Remove the stems from the shiitake and cut the caps crosswise. Cut the tofu into cubes measuring 2 by 2 cm. Boil the shirataki for 1 to 2 minutes and drain. Bring water to the boil and boil the udon noodles for 10 minutes. Refresh immediately under cold running water and drain well. For the basic bouillon add the kombu and dashi grains to 2 litres water and bring to the boil. Season with a little soy sauce and salt and keep warm. Fill two dip bowls with the sauce and put them on the table. Also place the condiments in 4 bowls. The ponzu sauce, mixed with the condiments serves as a dip sauce. Arrange all the ingredients, beginning with the cabbage on the bottom in the ‘nabe’. Top with the half lobster and other vegetables.

4 half (UHP) lobsters 200 g young spinach 1 sweet red pointed pepper Spring onions or Young leeks, sliced into thin rings 4 lemon segments Yuzu powder, Japanese lemon (alternatively, 1 lemon to grate) 2 table spoons sesame oil 1 finely chopped clove of garlic Japanese soy sauce

Defrost the lobsters and remove the meat from the carcass. Keep the claws. Chop the meat and keep at room temperature. Wash the spinach and drain well. Cut the red pointed pepper into 3mm thick slices and remove the seeds. Place the lobster meat in a bowl and mix with part of the sauce, the finely chopped onions and a little yuzu powder. Place the lobster shells in a greased oven dish and fill them with the lobster filling. Cover with the sauce. Sprinkle with the finely cut onions and panko. Place cubes of butter and sprinkle with the grated yuzu or lemon. Add the slices of pepper. Cook au gratin in a hot oven (220°C) oven for 10 minutes. In the meantime, simmer the spinach quickly with a little sesame oil and finely chopped garlic. Season with salt and a little soy sauce. Arrange the spinach on a plate at place the lobster on top. Add the lemon segments and sprinkle with a little yuzu and grate a little lemon on top.

4 half (UHP) lobsters 200 g Chinese cabbage 1 medium carrot 2 young leeks 8 cleaned shiitake 200 g tofu 200 g shirataki (noodles) Ponzu sauce (can be bought ready made as Aji Pon) grated daikon with red pepper spring onions sliced into thin rings 1 piece kombu (10 cm²) 10 g dashi grains 120 g udon (Japanese wheat noodles)

For the miso sauce: 100 g Japanese white miso 100 g fine sugar 100 ml water 100 ml mirin (sweet rice wine) 1 egg yolk Mix all ingredients together and bring to the boil, then bind with 10 g corn flour.

Place a bowl every person to serve the cooked vegetables or lobster from the saucepan before they dip it in the dip sauce. Fill the ‘nabe’ with the hot dashi bouillon and bring it to boiling point, bring the nabe to the table. Put the pan of a low flame in the middle of the table as with fondue. Everyone mixes their condiments with the ponzu sauce and ladles the ingredients in the stewing pot in their bowl, so that they can dip them in the dip sauce. When everything is almost finished, rinse the udon noodles again shortly in cold water and serve them in a bowl. They are then added to the remaining bouillon to be eaten as a finish to the meal together with a few spoonfuls of bouillon.

Recipes: Ivan Verhelle (Tanuki) Photos: Wouter Van Vooren You can find more information about Japanese products at www.dolcemagazine.be

DOLCE

ON A SMALL ISLAND IN GHENT WITH POL...

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

JENEVER, BEER AND BELGIAN CUISINE

Our visit to the little island in Ghent where Pol has three businesses is turning into a culinary odyssey. In ’t Dreupelkot, we spent most of our time talking about jenever. Then we paid a visit to Chez Leontine to taste some regional dishes, before finishing up at Waterhuis a/d Bierkant, where Sven produced three house beers for us to taste. Meanwhile, Frédéric De Backer from frédivers.be, Pols’s partner in jenever crime for over 25 years, was busy rustling up a few of the cocktails they have created. ’T DREUPELKOT “Frédéric also has a love of jenever”, said Pol. “We have shared our passion for jenever for almost half of our lives and we try to approach it as creatively as possible. We have even invented special jenevers, such as seaweed jenever. You can also taste jenevers based on chicory, chocolate, hazelnut and ginger. They are all high-quality products, because we don’t see the point of making anything but the best. If you claim to love a product, that love has to be seen and tasted in the glass. I make my own jenever in Hasselt. We use this jenever for the cocktails you will be tasting shortly. Until a few years ago, I did as much as possible myself. Now our recipes are followed by other people who make everything for us. Everything is natural. We sell only delicious cocktails made with pure ingredients...”

Everyone knows ’t Dreupelkot in Ghent. It is one of the last typical theme cafés which were once so popular in the city of Artevelde. The charismatic Pol has been working behind the bar for more than 26 years. In a way, he’s almost like a monument himself; as much part of the décor as the furniture and the 200 different types of jenever that people come to taste. Pol is adamant that jenever must be savoured here. ’t Dreupelkot is not just any old pub where cheap blends are served by the litre. Pol is proud of his products and the people who flock here to enjoy his jenevers are true connoisseurs.

‘If you claim to love your product, this love must be visible in the glass’ Can a cocktail be made from pure ingredients? Pol: “Absolutely. Both the jenever and the additives you choose determine whether or not you have a high-quality product. The alcohol percentage is another important factor. I don’t make my cocktails too strong. I do not think that the alcohol percentage should dominate the cocktail. I try never to exceed 22% vol. alc. I don’t want my cocktails to blow your socks off!”

It is incredible how many sorts of jenever there are. I always thought that is was mainly distilled in Flanders and the Netherlands and sold in those typical earthenware jars. Pol: “The Low Countries has the reputation of distilling the best jenevers. That’s why people understandably think that jenever only originates from here. In fact, jenever is a very old drink that originated in what is now France. The old Flanders, the fertile region of the Marne, around Amiens and Reims, was an abundant place in the 15th century. Therefore they had grain to spare after the harvest which could be used for distilling alcohol. People had learnt how to do this during the crusades. When the crusaders returned from north Africa, they brought little alembics – or stills – with them. They began to distil grain and make alcohol. Once you can do that, your options are endless. You can add all sorts of fruit to alcohol: apples, pears, red fruits, anything. A bit later on, people started to export alcohol, for example to England. To make the drink a little more pleasant, they added an extract of juniper berries. The English adopted the process and discovered gin. The little jars that you associate with jenever are purely decorative. They are just cute objects that hark back to the days when glass was not used, and jenever – just like wine – was stored in earthenware jars.”

‘The alcohol percentage must not dominate a cocktail’ What is the difference between a whisky and a jenever? Pol: “Jenever belongs to the whisky family. The difference is that it is distilled differently and that whisky is immediately poured into wooden casks to ripen. Jenever is not. It can be used immediately to make fruit jenevers or to consume as it is. If you put jenever into casks, you will see that the longer it is stored, the more it tastes like whisky.” Frédéric: “You mark my word, Pol can keep talking for days. It’s time he wrote a book. Maybe he should write about our ideas for cocktails. We have already created 10. They are well-balanced, high-quality drinks

Text: Christophe Lambert Photos: Stefanie Geerts

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with no preservatives or colourants. We use young jenever as a basis, because of its mild, neutral taste. The result is a real taste experience that should break through the traditional ideas about cocktails and, most importantly, introduce jenever to a wider audience. After the Ghent Festivities, we are going to concentrate on the cocktails. We will even organise accompanying workshops and tastings.” CHEZ LEONTINE In the meantime, photographer Frédérics has taken a photo of the second cocktail. While he was working on his third creation, Pol and I left ’t Dreupelkot and went to Chez Leontine. It was immediately clear that the chef, Ann, prefers working at the stove to giving interviews. Luckily, the loquacious Pol was not at a loss for words. Pol: “In Chez Leontine we have chosen to serve pure, authentic and unpretentious traditional cuisine. The menu is not too extensive, it just has a few freshly prepared regional dishes. In a while you will taste two casseroles – one with fish and one with chicken. I recommend them both! We also have Ghent stew with veal cheeks, our vol-auvent, a simply prepared steak. Just choose. We serve seasonal dishes,

asparagus, rabbit in prunes, game or hotch-potch in the winter, a nice fresh salad in summer…all lovingly prepared here by Ann. Although 80% of our clients are tourists, many Ghent residents also come to Chez Leontine. It is especially busy in the summer, when we serve 100 covers a day.”

Chez Leontine has chosen to serve honest, authentic and unpretentious traditional cuisine. The menu is not too extensive, but features a few freshly prepared regional dishes Does the chef at Chez Leontine ever cook with jenever? Pol: “I can imagine that it could be used in some dishes – young Dutch herring should certainly be eaten with a good jenever. But we don’t have to use jenever. The two businesses may be connected, but they don’t have to overlap. The restaurant is mainly a beer restaurant. Of course you can drink wine if you like, but we mainly focus on beer with food.”

WATERHUIS A/D BIERKANT We left the cosy, homely restaurant to meet Sven, who gave me a thorough introduction to the world of beer. Sven: “We have three house beers. The first one, Gandavum, 7.5% vol. alcohol and a dark blond, is an easy-to drink beer with a mild bitter aftertaste. It is brewed with a slightly sweet yeast that provides a fruity aftertaste. It is brewed in the Tasting Brewery in Lochristi. Our second house beer, Klokke Roeland, is produced in Ertvelde at the Van Steenberge brewery. It is a sweet and heavy beer which is mainly popular with young people and beer fans who like the dark classics. Our third beer, Mammelokker, also comes from Ertvelde. It is also easy to drink. It’s a dark beer with 6.5% vol. alc., mainly popular with women because it is reasonably neutral.” We thanked Sven, said our goodbyes, and pondered the characteristic Ghent stories that inspired the names of the beers, such as the strange tale of Mammelokker. This name is derived from the story of a man who only survived being thrown into prison because he was breastfed by his daughter during her visits…..... Give us one of Pol’s delicious cocktails any day!

HOW IS JENEVER MADE? The grain is first ground and sieved. It is then put into large tanks of warm water (between 45°C-55°C) to ferment for three days. Then it is distilled - often with an alembic - until it reaches a alcohol percentage of 60%-70% vol. alc. It is more common nowadays to distil in a column, because it is easier to obtain higher alcohol percentages. The higher the column, the higher the alcohol percentage. The highest is 98% vol. alc., which is alcohol of the purest kind. Of course, you cannot drink this. This pure alcohol is ‘cut’ by adding spring water until it is the required strength, e.g. a ratio of 52% water to 48% alcohol. If you don’t want to use the jenever immediately, you can store it in a cask. Old calvados casks are usually used for this purpose nowadays.

www.beerandginhouse.be

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Fish casserole Ă Chez Leontine Ingredients (Serve 4)

Ingredients (Serves 4)

300 g salmon, 300 g cod, 8 scampi 1.5 litres water 3 chicken stock cubes 4 large cooking potatoes 2 stalks of leek, only the whites 1 bundle of white celery 4 sprigs fresh parsley 75 cl 40% unsweetened cream

600 g beef cheeks 600 g pork cheeks Two large white onions Two tablespoons thyme leaves without stalks Four bay leaves Two slices bread with Tierenteyn mustard two Westmalle dubbel 33 cl two Rodenbach 33 cl 2 x 50 g cooking butter Brown sauce binder

Preparation Bring the water and stock cubes to the boil. Add the fish and boil for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and remove the fish. Let them drain slowly. Peel the potatoes and cut them in 4 lengthways. Bring them to the boil in lightly salted water until they are almost done. Remove the potatoes from the water and leave them to cool. Mince the rinsed leek and celery. Chop the parsley finely and set to one side. Bring the bouillon back to the boil and add the fish, leek and celery, potatoes and cream. Season with ground pepper and add a tiny dash of salt, of required. When the casserole comes to the boil, simmer for five minutes on a low heat. Serve in a large soup terrine and garnish with the parsley. Divide into four pre-heated soup bowls.

Stew with Westmalle and Rodenbach Ă Chez Leontine

Preparation Mince both onions and braise them in a large stewing pan with 50g cooking butter until the onions are golden. Remove from heat. Fry the beef cheeks in a frying pan with cooking butter and season with salt, pepper and thyme (1 tablespoon per pan). When they are all nice and brown, drain them into the stewing pan. Repeat with the pork cheeks. Fill up the stewing pan with bottles of beer, add bay leaves and cover with two slices of bread, that have been rubbed with Tierenteyn mustard. Place the lid on the stewing pan and leave to simmer for an hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the lid and bind with a brown sauce binder until you have a nice smooth sauce. You can serve the stewed meat with boiled potatoes or chips and mayonnaise.

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150 g egg white 135 g chocolate galettes 110 g fine table sugar 100 cl 40% unsweetened cream

Beat the egg whites and gradually add sugar until firm. Melt the chocolate galettes au bain Marie. Gently add the melted chocolate to the egg white and stir slowly with a spatula. Add the half whipped cream to the chocolate and egg white mixture and stir until you can no longer see the cream. Place the homogenous mixture in a plastic jar and place in the fridge to cool. Divide the cooled down mousse equally into glasses using a piping bag.

Recipes: Chez Leontine Photos: Stefanie Geerts

5 cl Dreupelkot coconut jenever 5 cl Dreupelkot strawberry jenever 1.5 cl Dreupelkot mint jenever A few drops of Dreupelkot pepper jenever

Cocktail Terraza

Preparation

Cocktail Joyce

Ingredients (serves approximately 6)

5 cl Dreupelkot lemon jenever 5 cl Dreupelkot mojito jenever 1.5 cl Dreupelkot mint jenever 1.5 cl Dreupelkot syrup Sparkling water lime fresh mint

Cocktail Frépol

Chocolate mousse

6 cl Dreupelkot ginger jenever 4 cl Dreupelkot orange jenever 1.5 cl Campari Pepper jenever

Recipes: Pol en Frédéric (’t Dreupelkot) Photos: Stefanie Geerts

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COCKTAILS ON

WALKING TRAYS 360° SERVICE, ORIGINAL DRINKS, DELICIOUS SNACKS AND GREAT LEGS

If you are in search of a truly original party, look no further than the Walking Trays from Bartenders-on-the-road. This mobile bar, which is shaped like a large serving tray, is an elegant way to serve snacks and drinks to your guests. DOLCE decided to try the Walking Tray experience. Text: Katia Belloy Photos: Jan Agten

BETWEEN THE GUESTS

Bart Taveirne from Bartenders-on-the-road invented the Walking Trays after a visit to 360Restaurant in Istanbul, a restaurant with a 360° view of the Bosporus. Bart translated this idea to providing 360° service with a Walking Tray. The concept is simple: a table-sized mobile serving tray on legs, lots of space for drinks, snacks, utensils, and the stunning legs of the barmaids. Walking Trays are an artistic combination of various elements; they give guests a 360° experience that involves both service and entertainment.

The mobile bars ensure intensive contact between bartenders and guests. “They are literally 40 centimetres from our guests, who can order a snack or drinks from all sides. Most forms of service are onesided, creating a distance between the bartender and the guests. With a Walking Tray, the bartender is literally standing among the guests”, said Bart.

Bart Taveirne: ‘Most serving methods are one-sided, creating distance between the bartender and the guests. With a Walking Tray the bartender is literally standing among the guests’

Cocktail shaker Kazim from Bartenders-on-the-road was shaking innovative cocktails, while Peter De Groote from catering service Ten Dauwe in Aalter made delicious snacks, including Belgian sushi (see recipes). Guests were welcomed with caviar from SherAzag Caviar. As a setting, we choose ADREM kitchens in Eeklo. We could tell you much more about Walking Trays, but you really have to see them for yourself and enjoy the experience.

“The Walking Trays are unique because they allow you to serve guests at a 360° angle”, said Bart. “The mobile aspect is also very important. You can place Walking Trays anywhere so that they can be used in any number of ways. You can hire them for an office party or a private party, but they also work well for product presentations at trade fairs or seminars. What’s more, they are perfect if you want to make an original impression at a press conference.”

COLLABORATION Caterer Peter De Groote has been working in kitchens since he was 14 and been collaborating with Bart for years. “Bart takes care of the organisation and drinks and I take care of the food”, explained Peter. “That always works very well. Bart is extremely creative and is always full of ideas. I then develop them to make them feasible, because not

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

of all Bart’s ideas can be put into practise (laughs).” Michiel Steenbeke from ADREM kitchen likes to open his showroom for Walking Tray events. “I often have the feeling that we are too occupied with the nuts and bolts –the purely practical matters – and too little with atmosphere. That’s why I like to inject some life into my kitchen with workshops and cooking events. This Walking Trays event for DOLCE fits perfectly with this aim and also allows me to position my product in an original way. After all, a kitchen is a place where people live and cook: in fact, nowadays it is the centre of the home.”

www.walking-tray.be www.bartenders-on-the-road.be www.tendauwe.be www.adremkeukens.be

DRINKS IN THE SPOTLIGHT POLIAKOV PREMIUM VODKA

LABEL 5 WHISKY

100% pure grain triple distilled vodka. Exceptional quality, award winner in international competitions:

LABEL 5 is a product of exceptional quality, which is distilled, ripened and bottled in Scotland. The LABEL 5 First Blending Company is located in the heart of Scotland, 20 kilometres from Edinburgh, in the middle of the Highlands, surrounded by woodland and natural water sources. Label 5 Scotch is made with a careful selection of the best malted barleys and a great deal of respect for the traditional manner of distilling. The cellar masters of the First Blending Company monitor the process closely from beginning to end, bringing all their craftsmanship to bear. The Scotch whisky LABEL 5 develops its smoky taste with a refined fruity note along with an exceptional softness during the long ripening process in oak casks. This whisky has won several awards, including a gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge 2008.

Gold medal at ISC 2009 Silver medal at IWSC 2009 Gold medal and cup winner at Drinks International Challenge 2008

www.bruggeman.be

DOLCE

Sushi with asparagus and marinated salmon

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Ingredients Boiled sushi rice, marinated salmon strips, blanched asparagus, a few leaves of sea lavender Preparation Roll the sushi with a nori sheet, seasoned sushi rice, marinated salmon, asparagus and blanched sea lavender. Finish with a gel of sea lavender.

CockTEAs Ice Flowers Taste

Californian Shake

Premium white tea Rose’s lime Lemon Orange

Organic Red Bush Manhattan Tea Orange juice Passion fruit syrup

COOKTAIL with whisky Sushi with Ganda ham and chicory

Minnesotas Oldy

Blue Brussels

Ingredients

Sweet glass with mascarpone crème crumble of Amaretto biscuits

Marinated fresh tuna carpaccio with a sweet and sour peach dressing

20 cl water 4 cl Whiskey label 5 6 cl amaretto 1 cl cane sugar syrup Gedroogde woudbessen thee Shake & strain Crushed ice

2,5 cl LABEL 5 Whisky 5 peach liqueur 5 Sweet & Sour 1 cl Blue Curacao 2 cl lime juice 1 cl cane sugar syrup

Boiled sushi rice, Ganda ham, blanched chicory leaves, preserved chicory Preparation Instead of nori, we will use fine slices of Ganda ham. Place a thin layer of blanched chicory leaves (dabbed totally dry) followed by the sushi rice on the ham. Then roll the sushi. Finish with a sweet and sour chicory preserve.

COCKTAIL with vodka Young herring sushi

Retro Mojito

Ingredients

4 cl Vodka Poliakov 2 cl cane sugar syrup 2 cl lime juiceCaraïbos mint Stir and add Crushed ice 2 cl Soda

Nori sheet, firm mashed potato, herrings, blanched extra fine beans, mustard Preparation Roll a sushi with the nori sheet, mash potatoes and a fillet of young herring and a few extra fine beans in the middle. Finish with a little mustard.

Recipes: Peter De Groote (Ten Dauwe) Photos: Jan Agten

Recipes: Bartenders-on-the-road Photos: Jan Agten Ingredients of drinks: Bruggeman (www.bruggeman.be)

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

DUTCH NEW HERRING AS YOU HAVE NEVER TASTED IT BEFORE HERRING AND BEER ARE BEST FRIENDS

Eighty guests of the catering wholesaler ISPC landed in Lokeren to visit Parlevliet fish wholesalers. The Parlevliet family is from the Netherlands and has been fishing for herring for at least five generations. In the 1960s, Nicolaas Parlevliet moved to Belgium, where he originally worked for a fish smokehouse. He finally started his own business in an old farm at Merelbeke. His son Dirk-Jan Parlevliet continues the activities in an ultra-modern herring factory on the Lokeren industrial estate, where 1,000 tons of herring are produced each year.

“I’m really impressed”, said Ellen Dethaey, PR, event & communications manager at ISPC. “Parlevliet is a great example of how old traditions and modern technology can go hand in hand. I’m longing for a young herring already!” After a glass of bubbly De Monterat from Epernay, the group set off for the Duvel Moortgat brewery for what is euphemistically known as a ‘product confrontation’. BITES, BEERS & FUN

You have been looking forward to it for months… The arrival of the new herrings transports many a gastronomist into ecstasies, not only in the herringmad Netherlands, but also increasingly in our own country. Eating young herring is a social occasion that deserves a celebration. ISPC treated its clients to a unique, mouth-watering food & beer pairing event. Enjoyment guaranteed! Text: Henk Van Nieuwenhove Photos: Michael De Lausnay

‘Every month, we organise an event for our clients based on an original theme. This enables us to create a great community feeling with our clients.’ The plant was a hive of activity when ISPC’s clients visited it. The start of the herring season was just around the corner and approximately 200 extra workers had been hired to meet the enormous demand. The factory operates at full speed from 4 am to 10 pm. The herring arrive from the far north already gutted, salted and deep frozen. Depending on requirements, they are defrosted and filleted at Parlevliet, either by machine or by hand. Restaurant owners usually prefer hand-filleted herring, which can be recognised by their lovely red colour and premium taste.

Old traditions and modern technology: these words also apply to the brewery set up by Jan Leonard Moortgat in 1871. The year 1923 should be written in golden letters, because it is the year that Duvel was born. Using an exceptional yeast strain from Scotland, a unique recipe was developed for one of the best beers in the world. And it is this very Duvel that is recognised as the best partner for Dutch new herring. But what is the best way to pour Duvel? Pour it straight from the cellar into a dry and grease-free glass that has just come from the freezer, leave a centimetre of beer in the bottle, swirl the glass to release the yeast and either add or discard the rest according to the consumer’s preference. Voilà: at least this is what Duvel Moortgat recommends. Thanks to substantial investments since 2000, the fourth generation of Moortgats have given the brewery a new lease of life, and it can now truly be known as the reference for special beers in Belgium. In other

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

words, this is the perfect place to combine the unique DOLCE herring dishes with superior beers. DOLCE’s Ilse Duponcheel and DOLCE Chef Nicolas Rivière presented herrings as they have never been tasted before. Zythologue and beer ambassador Nicolas Soenen selected suitable beers, accordion player Marino Punk provided musical entertainment and the wonderful combination of bites, beers & fun was a sure-fire recipe for happy, smiling faces. “This is why we do it, of course”, laughed Ellen Dethaey from ISPC. “Every month we organise an event for our clients based on an original theme. This allows us to create a community feeling with our clients. ISPC has a faithful circle of clients and we want to make this connection even stronger. We very much appreciate DOLCE’s contribution to this.”

‘Young herring is a wonderful product which allows you to experiment endlessly’ A TASTE OF LA RÉUNION Have you ever considered young herrings in a warm salad of potatoes preserved in turmeric, covered in a condiment of capers, shallot and coriander and served with a glass of Vedett White? Or maybe a superb young herring marinated with lime zest, served with creamy cauliflower, preserved lemon and a crisp biscuit with a nice full-

bodied Duvel? Perhaps you would prefer a starter of young herring and smoked salmon on an oyster shell, garnished with mustard and accompanied by a glass of La Chouffe? “New herring is an amazing product that you can experiment with endlessly”, said Nicolas Rivière. “We have developed unusual combinations with ingredients that I pick up on my travels. I trained in France, but my roots are in La Réunion, and they won’t let go of me.” Someone else who is delighted with this experiment is beer specialist Nicolas Soenen, who had the pleasant task of selecting the right beer for each dish. “The first rule is that you have to taste the dishes; you can’t just follow the recipe blindly. Use your taste experience to choose a beer which either contrasts with or complements the dish. In the first case, the tastes will enhance each other, in the second case, the tastes will blend wonderfully in the mouth. I would combine plain young herring with a Vedette Blond or a De Koninck. If you give the young herring a more culinary twist, you have an entire range of beer to choose from.” A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN Ronny Buckens from Restaurant ’t Wethuis in Lochristi is one of the rare chefs who likes to work with beer. “We have a tasting menu with accompanying beers served in small tasting glasses. The clients

appreciate that, and more than half of them choose beer. I have even gained clients who now come especially for the beer. We now have 40 different tasting glasses. I’m always trying to learn more, so that I can come up with the best combinations, and there’s no better place to do this than in a brewery. This is a wonderful initiative from ISPC. Not only do we learn everything about the special beers, but we can also immediately test which beer goes best with each dish. I have also made some interesting contacts with beer specialists who want to return my visit. I want more of that! Once you know that even Noma (the famous restaurant) has had a beer developed in the tasting brewery at Lochristi, you realise that you don’t need to feel shy about serving beer.” From now on you can enjoy a hay-baked duck from René Redzepi with an East-Flemish beer. Salon Caipirinha in Merelbeke is famous for its excellent fish dishes. Chef Luc Steurbaut is also a passionate fan of young herring. “It is important to serve fish in the right season. I work with young herring from the beginning of the season until early September. Then I stay away from them. I prefer hand filleted young herring as an accompaniment to aperitifs, or I use them in a starter. It is best to remove the young herring from the brine and clean them yourself, but this requires dexterity and experience. I serve young herring icecold with a glass of dry white wine or a beer. At this ISPC event we can combine business and pleasure. The tips from specialists and contacts

that you make are especially interesting. If you can combine that with a delicious beer and original snack, you have a recipe for a successful event.”

Luc Steurbaut: ‘This ISPC event combines business with pleasure. The tips from specialists and the contacts you will make are especially interesting’ The last word comes from a true connoisseur; musician Marino Punk, who livens up parties with unforgettable paso-dobles and sultry tangos. “This is a match made in heaven. Duvel is even more delicious with this wonderful young herring!” We advise Duvel-virgins from the Netherlands to exercise some caution with this potent beer. www.ispc.be

FIGURES ON YOUNG HERRINGS About 25,000 tonnes of herring are processed into young herring each year. 180 million herring in total are produced, 14 million of which are consumed in Belgium. The Dutch outdo us by far, consuming 76 million herring, but the biggest consumers are the Germans, who eat 90 million of these fish each year.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

DID YOU KNOW? Eighty percent of Dutch New Herring - or young herring - comes from Norway. When herring fishing in the North Sea was banned in 1977, Dutch fishermen and fish processing companies were forced to look further afield to Ireland, Scotland and Scandinavia. The name Dutch New refers to the specific processing of these herring, which are gutted and salted according to the method advocated by national hero Willem Beuckelszoon from the Zeeland Beer Fleet in 1380. Herring gutters use a special knife to remove the intestines from the herringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s abdomen. Only the pancreas is left, because it produces natural enzymes that turn food into fat. Herring must contain at least 16 per cent fat to be processed as a young herring. Their name (they are called maatjes in Dutch, which sounds similar to the Dutch word for virgin) is derived from virgin herring, because the young fish is not yet sexually mature and does not contain spawn or roe.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

 KNOKKE-HEIST

STARSTUDDED BEACH IS HEAVEN FOR CONNOISSEURS

Bart Desmidt (Bartholomeus)

Knokke-Heist calls itself ‘gastropolis on the coast’. And rightly so, because with four Michelin starred restaurants in seven years, Knokke-Heist has become the culinary capital of the Belgian coast. What’s more, there are 26 Michelin stars within a 22 kilometre radius in the neighbouring Zwin region! Text: Ann Welvaert Photos: Jan Agten

Christophe Van den Berghe (Jardin Tropical)

Stefan Billiau (De Oosthoek)

When chef Bart Desmidt decided to open a restaurant in his parent’s old toy shop eighteen years ago, many of the town’s residents shook their heads and wondered “What kind of idiot wants to start a restaurant right on the sea embankment?” But Bart and his wife Nadine proved their critics wrong. They stuck to their vision, which was to prepare everything fresh themselves, and as perfectly as possible. In no time they had worked their way to the culinary top. In 2001, Restaurant Bartholomeus was awarded its first Michelin star, which was then also the only Michelin star in Knokke.

The number of West-Flemish restaurants with Michelin stars rose by almost 60% between 2001 and 2012. With an increase from one to four starred restaurants in the same period, Knokke-Heist has exceeded this average growth percentage by far. According to Daniël Despiegelaere, president of the Knokke-Heist Tourist Board, the high concentration of starred restaurants is mainly due to the plentiful competition. “Don’t forget that Knokke has over 20,000 second homes. Knokke-Heist attracts a particularly discerning type of client who is used to the very best when it comes to cuisine. Poor quality is not accepted here.”

AMBITIOUS GENERATION

Christophe Van den Berghe: ‘We are an ambitious generation that wants to equal our culinary heroes at the very least. Fortunately, Knokke attracts clients that appreciate this’

However, Bart Desmidt was not to enjoy his monopoly on Michelin stars in Knokke for long. In 2004, Christophe Van den Berghe (Jardin Tropical) won his first Michelin star, followed by Stefan Billiau (De Oosthoek) in 2005. In 2008 Frederik Deceuninck (Sel Gris) brought the count to four. “When Bart was awarded his star, we had a feeling that more would follow”, said Christophe Van den Berghe. “We were all in the class of Wout Bru and Sergio Herman. At the age of 16, we dined at starred restaurants and collected as many menus signed by starred chefs as we could. It was an honour for us to do traineeships in the great houses, preferably abroad. We are an ambitious generation that wants to equal the achievements of our culinary heroes. Knokke attracts clients that appreciate this. They accept our concept, and value our efforts to achieve absolute perfection.”

WIN-WIN SITUATION Tourism and gastronomy are inextricably bound in Knokke-Heist. “Gastronomy is a fully fledged USP (Unique Selling Proposition, red.)” in our communications, said Daniël Despiegelaere. “We regularly work with starred chefs at (international) congresses and receptions. We present Knokke-Heist as the place with excellent chefs .” With an annual guide to top restaurants in the Zwin region, the Knokke-Heist Tourist

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Sea bass / cauliflower/ summer truffle / basil / egg Ingredients (4 persons) 600 g wild sea bass fillet 1 cauliflower 1 summer truffle 1 shallot 50 g basil 1 dl Chardonnay vinegar 1 dl truffle juice 4 eggs squid ink 100 g bread crumbs 60 g burrata Preparation Frederik Deceuninck (Sel Gris)

Board does not just focus on the culinary hotspots in the coastal town. “We are developing a more regional-based approach with regard to top gastronomy. With no fewer than 26 stars within a 22 kilometre radius, the Zwin region has the highest concentration of starred restaurants in all of Europe, after Paris”, said Daniël Despiegelaere. “We also work together closely with starred chefs for the Fish of the Year event; after all, half of Knokke-Heist is and remains a fishing community. The starred chefs also draw attention to many other regional products, such as shrimps and sea lavender. Bart Desmidt even developed his own range of pralines with babelutte.” Both parties see this cooperation between the municipality and the hospitality industry as a win-win situation. “We are ambassadors for Knokke, but the city also helps us in return”, said Frederik Deceuninck. “The municipal authorities really take needs of restaurant owners into account and the restaurant guide to the Zwin region attracts new customers every year.” Knokke-Heist recently took extra measures to benefit the restaurant industry. “From 8pm, parking is permitted on the sea embankment. This has freed up about 700 extra parking spaces and will improve access to the restaurants”, said Daniël Despiegelaere. THE BELGIAN MARBELLA The city’s efforts to improve infrastructure have been enthusiastically praised by the star chefs. “In the old days, when my parents had a toy shop in this location, there was nothing to do here in winter”, said

Daniël Despiegelaere, president of the Knokke-Heist Tourist Board

Sea bass: Portion and fillet the sea bass. Fry on the skin side until golden and crisp.

Cauliflower: Cut a few florets from the cauliflower and marinate in an acid solution. Chop the remainder of the cauliflower and steam. Then puree until smooth. Basil: Finely chop the shallot, and then add the truffle juice and the Chardonnay vinegar to it. Reserve several small basil leaves for garnishing. Mix the remainder of the basil with olive oil and strain. Add this to the shallot. Burrata: Mix the burrata, slice it open on a board and cut circles out of it. Egg: Poach an egg yolk. Mix the squid ink with bread crumbs and the truffle leftovers. Coat the egg yolk with the bread crumbs and deep dry briefly in hot oil.

Bart Desmidt. All that has totally changed.” According to chef Stefan Billiau, Knokke has become the Marbella of Belgium. “It has everything. Knokke-Heist has cycle paths, tennis courts, beaches, nice shops, art galleries, the best golf course in Belgium and much more. All this draws a large group of loyal customers who come here to enjoy the same fashionable atmosphere as is found in Marbella or the Côte d’Azur.” RISING STARS “The annual occupation in a starred restaurant is extremely high in Knokke”, said Frederik Deceuninck. In Sel Gris, our annual occupation level is around 80%. This has not gone unnoticed by the staff. If you are motivated, prepared to work hard and able to get start capital to open a restaurant in Knokke, you will be a success.” The star chefs from Knokke have not seen any signs of stagnation. At the moment, all eyes are on Cuines33. “We would like to see new Michelin star restaurants. The more Michelin stars a city has, the more chance it has of becoming a culinary Mecca. The arrival of Cuines33 is good motivation for us. It reminds us that we have to continue to work hard and dare to change. This is exactly what we are going to do. In September we are opening under a new name, ‘Jardin’, with an exclusive and individualistic concept that is going to break through all the rituals. Our loyal customers will be enthusiastic, as they also like innovation. Once more, the fact that we are located in Knokke is an advantage. Chefs can dare just a little bit more here. A healthy dose of self-confidence is not just accepted in Knokke – it’s positively encouraged.”

Recipe: Bart Desmidt (Bartholomeus) Photo: Jan Agten

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Consommé of tomato, langoustine tartare, buffalo mozzarella and basil and langoustine granita

Lobster - Summer 2012 Ingredients

Preparation

Ingredients

1 lobster, cooked for 1 min. per 100 g 1 quail egg 1 daikon radish 1 cucumber 1 candied cherry tomato lime butterhead lettuce yoghurt mascarpone sour cream fresh ketchup ball made of lime

Finely mince the meat from the claws and the end of the tail. Mix the meat with mascarpone, sour cream, lime juice, a dash of freshly made ketchup, salt and pepper.

1 kg langoustines 8/12 1 buffalo mozzarella basil 1 green zebra tomato 1 yellow tomato 1 red tomato

Arrange this in the centre of the plate, and then begin garnishing in a semicircle around the tartare: a poached quail egg, several slices of freshly marinated radish, several cucumber rolls, also marinated, a candied tomato and a sprinkle of course salt. Make a cream from the butterhead lettuce, and garnish the plate with several points of cream. Add several points of garnished yoghurt and a ball made of lime. Then the entire dish is finished with a bit of cress and a yoghurt crisp.

Recipe: Stefan Billiau (De Oosthoek) Photo: Jan Agten

Tomato consommé: 1 kg ripe or overripe tomatoes 30 g white celery 10 g shallot 50 g fennel 6 g garlic 2 g thyme 10 g basil 10 g salt 20 g sugar 1 g Worcestershire sauce 0.5 g Tabasco Preparation Coarsely chop all of the vegetables and herbs into 2-3 cm pieces. Add the rest of the ingredients to the vegetables and marinate for 3 hours. After marinating, purée in a food processor or with a large soup mixer. Hang the purée in a cloth in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Langoustine granita: 0.5 l water 100 g white wine 1 onion 1 clove of garlic 2 tomatoes 150 g langoustine claws olive oil, salt, lemon juice and thyme Fry the langoustine claws together with the onion, garlic and tomato in olive oil, quench with water and white wine and bring to a boil. Remove the froth and steep for 15 minutes. Strain the mixture, bring to a boil and reduce by half. Allow to cool and adjust seasoning to taste. Freeze the mixture and use a fork to make a granita. Peel and devein the langoustines and then mince finely. Season the tartare with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and chives. Chop and marinate the tomatoes.

Recipe: Frederik Deceuninck (Sel Gris) Photo: Sel Gris

Side-by-Side : la fraîcheur a trouvé son espace Snicker Ingredients (4 persons) 4 chocolate moulds (rectangular) 100 g crisp pearls, Callebaut (dark) Florentine mix (honey) For the chocolate mousse: 200 g flavoured chocolate, Callebaut (caramel) 75 g water 400 g cream 50 g sugar

Le Side-by-Side est une combinaison qui offre 6 zones de températures.

For the salted caramel: 125 g glucose 25 g water 312.5 g sugar 125 g salted butter 4 g salt 250 g cream

For the chocolate crumble: 125 g softened butter 175 g Demerara sugar 115 g flour 140 g almond powder ’50/50’ 30 g cacao 2 g baking powder

For the hazelnuts: 250 g hazelnuts 2.5 dl water 2 x 150 g sugar

For the chocolate ice: 500 g milk 4 eggs 250 g sugar 200 g milk chocolate 100 g cream

Avec ses tiroirs BioFresh et BioFresh-Plus, elle permet de conserver les vitamines, l’aspect et le goût de vos aliments frais jusqu’à trois fois plus longtemps que dans un réfrigérateur traditionnel. Vos vins sont accueillis dans un compartiment spécial à deux zones de températures, réglables séparément entre +5° C et +20° C. Sa technologie NoFrost assure une congélation professionnelle de qualité supérieure. Fini le dégivrage ! L’IceMaker est automatique. Rencontrez votre revendeur Liebherr, c’est un professionnel qui saura vous renseigner dans le détail et vous conseiller efficacement. Ou visitez notre site www.liebherr.be

Preparation Chocolate mousse: Heat the water and allow the chocolate to gradually melt in it. In the meantime, beat the cream with the sugar until it is just thicker than yoghurt. When the chocolate has cooled slightly, fold it into the cream mixture. Portion it out into piping bags and store in the refrigerator.

Crumble: Mix together all of the dry ingredients and then add the soft butter to this mixture. Spread this mixture out on a silicone baking mat and bake at 150°C for 7/8 minutes. Once the hazelnuts have cooled, chop them, if desired.

Salted caramel: Caramelize the glucose, water and sugar (may be quite dark). Meanwhile, cut the butter into small pieces; it should also be soft by now. When the caramel has a nice, dark colour, quench it the lukewarm cream. (Divide the cream into thirds and quench three times.) Once the caramel is well mixed with the cream, add the butter and the salt. The caramel must now boil until a temperature of 119°C is reached. (This is very important!) Allow to cool and store in a piping bag in the refrigerator.

Chocolate ice: Mix the eggs and the sugar until smooth. Allow the milk to boil 1 x and remove from the heat. Melt the chocolate in this hot milk. When the chocolate has melted completely, add it to the milk and sugar mixture and then add the cream. Freeze for 1 night in a PACOJET pot. Stir as needed.

Hazelnuts: Boil the water and 150 g sugar. Then add the hazelnuts and allow to boil for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, add the other portion of 150 g sugar and allow to boil for another 10 minutes. In the meantime, preheat the oven to 130°C. Remove the hazelnuts from the sugar syrup/caramel and bake them in the oven on a silicone baking mat for 10 minutes. Please note: The hazelnuts must be baked immediately while they are still warm, otherwise there is a risk of crystals forming.

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Place everything in layers on a plate and place several hazelnuts in the middle. Cover with the crumble, add an ice quenelle and garnish the top.

Recipe: Christophe Van den Berghe (Jardin Tropical) Photo: Jan Agten

biofresh.liebherr.com

Cinem s.a. Assesteenweg 117/5 1740 Ternat

Je préfère un Liebherr

DOLCE

CATERER

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

RUSTENBURG OPTS FOR BEER

BEER DELIGHTS WITH BOSTEELS BEERS: TRIPEL KARMELIET, PAUWEL KWAK AND DEUS BRUT DES FLANDRES

The Beer Delights—tasty snacks that fuse perfectly with Belgian beers—show that Rustenburg knows how to appreciate our amber nectar. But you can also have an event or reception with wine and champagne at Rustenburg. Rustenburg can organise a variety of events on a small or large scale. The Sunday brunch is also very popular. Owner Dieter Daele did communication studies before entering the world of event management. But he’s had a feel for hospitality right from a young age. ‘I’ve been working in the hospitality industry since I was 16 and have been with Rustenburg for ten years,’ says Dieter. ‘My background in event management fits seamlessly with the Rustenburg concept.’ TOTAL CONCEPT Rustenburg is actually a total concept with a focus on culinary services. ‘We can make a full plan for any kind of party,’ says Dieter. ‘We have useful leaflets which include all the options for food, drinks, decorations and specials. Clients can either get to work with this information themselves and create their own, very personal, reception, or they can leave it all to us. Another thing that makes us unique are our selfdesigned pieces of furniture. These are real eye-catchers which do our food and drinks justice.’

Catering company Rustenburg’s kitchens are occupied by a young chef. Jonas Vanden Abeele is only 21 but seems to have inherited his talent for cooking from his father, Alain, former chef at Rustenburg. DOLCE took some Bosteels beers along to Rustenburg where Jonas unleashed his creativity on them.

Dieter describes Rustenburg primarily as being young, dynamic and trendy. Dieter: ‘That is reflected in our dynamic team and trendy logo, all with a touch of Trivial Pursuit. We can provide all the pieces of the pie which then gives you a nicely put together whole. And most of all, we want to be different, more playful, and always reinventing ourselves, so that people are constantly surprised’

BEER DRINKER Dieter is more of a wine than a beer drinker, although he certainly knows how to appreciate the beer receptions. By contrast, chef Jonas is all about the beer. ‘I’d rather drink beer than wine. And beer lends itself much more to cooking than wine does. Beer is less pronounced than wine and has a varied palate of flavours which is very rewarding in the kitchen. Beer adds taste, smell and personality to dishes.’

Jonas Vanden Abeele: ‘Beer lends itself much more to cooking than wine does’ Jonas learned his skills at Ter Duinen hotel school in Koksijde and gained work experience at De Jonkman in Bruges, De Waterlijn in Knokke, with Raymond Blanc in England and in La Tâche in Bruges. And his father, chef Alain Vanden Abeele, has of course also been a shining example to him. Just like Alain, Jonas likes to experiment with crossing borders and India especially plays a major role in his culinary repertoire. For DOLCE, he chose to include original pakoras, and the masala, curry and ginger give the desserts an exotic touch. Jonas loves working with Bosteels beers. ‘These are great beers that you add to dishes as well as serve alongside them.’ ‘And the eyes get a little something too,’ adds Dieter. ‘Bosteels got original glasses designed and there’s nothing as stylish as a 75 cl bottle of Deus.’

www.bestbelgianspecialbeers.be www.rustenburg.be

Text: Katia Belloy Photos: Jan Agten

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Ganda ham and asparagus pakoras, Tripel Karmeliet dip, capers and shallot confit

Marinated salmon timbale with soused herrings and pea chili with cardamom

Ingredients (20 pakoras)

Ingredients (12 timbales)

Preparation

Timbale: 300 g marinated salmon 150 g herrings 1 shallot 20 g frozen peas 6 young sprouts

Finely chop the shallot and mix into the frozen peas. Cut 6 nice pieces from the herring and finely chop the rest. Slice the salmon into 6 nice strips of 4 cm each. Chop the rest of the salmon and mix it into the shallots and finely chopped herring. Mix everything together into a nice salad and season with salt and pepper. Place the strip of marinated salmon on a worksheet, put a spoonful of salad into it and roll into a nice timbale. For the chili, parboil the peas in the chicken stock. Then shock them in ice water. Slice open the chilli pepper lengthwise, remove the seeds and chop finely. Then peel the garlic and chop finely. Heat the olive oil and chilli pepper along with the garlic, mustard seed, the seeds from the cardamom pods and chili powder. Use a blender to make this mixture into a smooth but firm puree. Arrange the timbales on a plate. Put the nice piece of herring on top along with a scoop of chili and garnish with the young sprouts. Add a drop of Deus Brut des Flandres.

150 g white asparagus 150 g potatoes Asparagus 150 g white of leek 150 g onion 6 slices of Ganda ham 150 g flour 150 g gram flour (chickpea flour) Water 1 tbsp turmeric Dip: Fresh mayonnaise Capers 4 tablespoons of shallot confit Tripel Karmeliet Preparation

100 g flour, 100 g gram flour and some water. Mix all the ingredients into this batter. Sprinkle lightly with flour and gram flour until it becomes sticky and solid. Make balls out of the mixture using two tablespoons and fry these in hot oil until golden brown. Leave to drain on kitchen towel. Prepare the dip by diluting the mayonnaise with the Tripel Karmeliet. Add the capers for a touch of saltiness, along with the shallot confit. Further details Pakoras are a snack in India. The nice thing about them is that they are crisp on the outside and lovely and soft on the inside. You can make them using all sorts of vegetable mixtures.

Pea chili: 250 g frozen peas 2 dl chicken stock 1 green chilli pepper 2 cloves of garlic 5 tbsp olive oil 5 pieces of cardamom 2 tbsp mustard seeds A pinch of Kashmiri chili powder Deus Brut des Flandres

Wash all of the vegetables and slice them into fine strips (julienne). Slice the Ganda ham into thin strips and add to the vegetables. Season everything with turmeric, salt and pepper. Peel the garlic cloves and crush them. Mix with the cumin seeds. Stir this mixture into the vegetables. Make a smooth batter using

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Spinach and coriander cappuccino with Kwak beer, pinchos of smoked fish and whipping cream

Tomato confit tatin with basil, ginger and Deus Brut des Flandres

Ingredients (8 glasses)

Ingredients (12 tatins)

250 g red onion 1 green chilli pepper 2 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tbsp garam masala 1/2 tbsp cumin seeds 1 l vegetable stock 500 g fresh spinach 2 bunches of fresh coriander 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley 20 cl Kwak beer 2 lemons 100 g smoked salmon 25 cl double cream (40%) salt 1 tbsp garam masala

8 Roma tomatoes 3 shallots 1 clove of garlic 1 tsp curry powder 3 tbsp olive oil 2 cm ginger 4 tbsp sugar ½ bunch basil 1 dl Deus Brut des Flandres 1 sheet of puff pastry

Preparation

Slice the shallots into very fine strips. Finely chop the garlic. Cut the Roma tomatoes into cubes. Put aside 12 nice basil leaves and finely chop the rest. Heat the oil, add the curry powder and allow to sweat. Add the shallots and garlic and fry until golden brown. Now add the Deus beer, and Roma tomatoes. The tomatoes will sweat at first. Allow this mixture to boil down until almost all of the beer and tomato juice has evaporated. Now add the grated ginger and sugar and simmer this for another two minutes. Take off the heat and stir in the chopped basil. Fill the moulds with this chutney and cover with slices of puff pastry. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C. Allow to cool and remove from moulds. Serve lukewarm (because this brings out the flavour more) with a pipette of Deus.

Peel the onion and slice it. Cut the chilli pepper in half lengthwise, remove the seeds and finely chop. Peel the garlic clove and mince. Heat the oil in a pan and gently sauté the onion and the garlic. Add the garam masala, the cumin seeds and the chilli pepper and fry for a while. Add the hot vegetable stock. Chop the coriander and the flat-leaf parsley finely and add to the soup. Simmer for 10 minutes, just under boiling point. Wash the spinach and add it to the soup, together with the lemon juice. Boil the soup briefly and then mix. Now add the Kwak beer for tempered bitterness. Thread the smoked salmon on skewers. Whip the cream lightly. Pour the soup into the glasses, spoon over the cream and sprinkle with salt and garam masala. Decorate with the salmon pinchos.

Pipettes: 2 dl Deus Brut des Flandres 12 plastic pipettes Preparation

Further details A taste explosion. The Kwak beer adds tempered bitterness and subtle hint of liquorice which is a perfect match for the garam masala. The fattiness of the smoked salmon boosts the taste of this dish. Can also be served cold. Recipes: Jonas Vanden Abeele Photos: Jan Agten

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

KIDDY BITES KEEP THE KIDS AMUSED

During the gastronomic four day event Gent Smaakt! DOLCE Chef Nicolas Rivière served Kiddibites for the young’uns, accompanied by soft cushions, delicious snacks, colourful drinks and entertainment by Ilse Duponcheel. It’s never been so easy to keep your kids happy! Of course, there were also tasty bites, cocktails and other drinks for the parents. Photos: Jan Agten

DOLCE

KIDDY BOXES FOR FOUR CHILDREN

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Kelvin’s natural scampi 16 scampi / olive oil: 20 g / garlic: 1 clove / fresh thyme: 1 sprig / smoked salt Marinate the scampi in the oil and herbs for 2 hours. Serve them on a board.

Pinguin strawberries in lemon juice with chocolate chips 300 g Pinguin strawberries / 20 g sugar / juice from 1 orange and zest / juice from 1 grapefruit / 10 g chocolate chips. Cut the strawberries into small pieces and marinate them overnight in a mixture of orange juice, grapefruit juice, sugar and the zest. Garnish with the chocolate chips.

Salad of Pinguin carrot slices with orange juice and cumin. Crisp tuile with honey 200 g carrot slices / 50 g orange juice / cumin / brick pastry: 2 sheets / honey / olive oil Sauté the carrot slices in some olive oil, add salt and cumin. Deglaze with the orange juice and simmer for 2 to 5 minutes. Make the tuiles by rubbing 2 sheets of brick pastry with honey. Bake in the oven at about 200°C for 3 minutes.

Pinguin caramelised pineapple Finely chopped pineapple: 200 g / sugar: 30 g / butter: 30 g / chopped preserved ginger Melt the butter and sugar until it forms a blond caramel. Add the pineapple. Make sure the pineapple is covered completely in caramel and garnish with a little preserved ginger.

Cuberdon

Recipes: DOLCE Chef Nicolas Rivière (NeWS) Photos: Jan Agten

DOLCE

DOLCE Ambassador in the picture

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

JEAN-PHILIPPE WATTEYNE,

CHEF AT iCOOK!

Marked by many travels, meetings and passions, the life of Jean-Phi (as he is known to his friends, and to everyone from now on) has been unusual to say the least. This new style chef follows a certain logic, combined with a strong drive to distinguish himself by his personal cuisine, seasoned with creativity and enhanced by a sense of aesthetics. Every dish is a delight to both the eye and the taste buds.

DOLCE’S AMBASSADOR IN THE HEART OF HENEGOUWEN

YOUNG GLOBETROTTER As a child, Jean-Phi baked cakes with his mother and grandmother, who wisely allowed him to experiment to his heart’s content. Maybe this is why he later trained as a pastry cook and chocolate maker at the Ilon-Saint-Jacques Institute in Namen.

Aesthetics, taste, regional products and luscious home-grown ingredients: a recipe for surprising discoveries The doors of haute cuisine opened to him when, at the age of 18, he started work at l’Air du Temps. For a whole year, Jean-Phi learnt the tricks of the trade there from Sanghoon Degeimbre, who was obviously an excellent teacher. Following his introduction to haute cuisine, Jean-Phi decided to go his own way, and set off on his travels. He worked as a barman, assistant sommelier (at restaurant Chiggeri in Luxemburg, with 1,000 wine references) and bartender at GO, Club Med, with whom he travelled for six seasons to Portugal (Jean-Phi thinks that Club La Balaia, has the best cuisine), Sardinia, France and Greece. CREATIVITY FIRST

The city of Bergen is the birthplace of the popular Doudou festival, home of our first minister and is due to be the European Capital of Culture in 2015. We found a tiny restaurant whose measurements are in inverse proportion to the expanding talent of its smiling chef, Jean-Philippe Watteyne. Everything at iCook! exudes art, from the panelling to the food on your plate, much to the joy of the bon viveurs who flock here. Text: Joëlle Rochette Photos: Anthony Florio

In 2005 he returned to Belgium to help a friend of his brother in a small brasserie. He used this time to develop his creativity and set out on his culinary quest. ICOOK! OPENS IN BERGEN

Since April 2011, the high tables, contemporary fittings, contemporary fittings and gilded bar have complemented the culinary compositions of Jean-Phi, who has become one of the most creative chefs in Wallonia in just a few short years.

Jean-Phi took over the delicatessen that would later become iCook! in 2009. The originally tiny delicatessen grew to become the epicentre of the young chef’s kitchen. From there, he established a successful shop and a business as a home chef. This is how he met interior designer Charlotte Esquenet, who asked him to provide the stylish opening banquet for a hyper-modern hotel in Poland which she had designed.

This chef’s new vision on aesthetics and taste, regional products and delicious home-grown ingredients, is a recipe for surprising discoveries. For the past two years, Jean-Phi has participated in prestigious competitions such as Prosper Montagné (3rd in 2010 – 4th in 2011) and Belgium’s Best Artisanal Master Chefs (Beste Ambachtsman van de Meesterkoks van België), where he was runner-up this year.

These two creative spirits got on like a house on fire, and Jean-Phi asked Charlotte to design the décor for iCook! in the same style as the hotel in Poland. A few instructions, photos and moving images were enough to inspire the interior designer. The building, a small, attractive contemporary and original restaurant, is a jewel – and one which perfectly reflects iCook’s cuisine!

The future looks very promising for iCook!: Bergen has another great restaurant and there is no doubt that Henegouwen has a top chef in the making. Watch this space… iCook!: rue des Fripiers 2, 7000 Bergen, tel. 065/33 40 33 A present awaits all members of the DOLCE Club who visit iCook!

DOLCE

Chaud-froid of veal, apricot and basil

PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Preparation

320 g veal fillet 2 nuggets of blanched sweetbread Chinese Five spice 2 apricots Basil pesto Basil leaves Olive oil 100 g flour 90 g icing sugar 90 g banuyls vinegar 4 nasturtium flowers

Cut the veal and 1 apricot into small cubes, add herbs, oil and basil leaves. Sprinkle the sweetbread with five spice, season and cook on a high heat. Mix all the ingredients for the tuile and bake in the oven at 180°C for 3 to 4 minutes. Puree the apricot and strain using a pointed sieve.

Pavé of grilled and smoked red tuna, seasonings of Granny Smith apple & lemon, with Palestinian semolina Ingredients (Serves 4)

Preparation

4 pavés of red tuna (sashimi) 1 Granny Smith apple 1 lime 150 g Palestinian semolina 1 shallot 2 ripe tomatoes (with calyx and stalk if possible) agar-agar 2 dl double cream 1 slice bread 1 soup spoon mild mustard 1 yellow lemon 60 g oil of grilled vegetables 40 g malt dextrose 200 g black olives 15 agastache leaves and 4 flowers for presentation

Quickly fry the tuna pavés in a grill pan and leave to cool at room temperature. Cut the lemon à vif, and divide into segments, cut the Granny Smith apple into small cubes and mix. Arrange on the tuna. Mince half a shallot, cook gently and add the semolina; add the liquid and continue to simmer until the liquid has been absorbed, season. Mix the tomatoes with the agastache leaves, the shallot and a dash of vinegar. Weigh and prepare the agar-agar. Leave to one side until cold and then cut into small squares. Puree the agastache cream, season and place in the siphon. Toast the bread and cut into small croutons. Squeeze the lemon and mix with the mustard. Mix the oil and the malt Mix the olives and dry in the oven. Smoke the tuna with Provencal oak shavings.

Fillet of Hind pré-salé, potatoes stuffed with seasonal mushrooms, panisse, an oyster, a selection of cabbages and textures, jelly of oyster gravy reduced gravy and a moelleux of cabbage and mustard Ingredients (Serves 4) 2 kg fillet of hind 14 special oysters Gillardeau n° 3 14 calibrated potatoes 14 mushrooms (see seasonal harvest) 300 g chickpea flour (to prepare the panisse) 1 carrot, the green from 1 leek, 1 celery, 2 herb bouquets and ‘bouillon ris’ 1 shallot, 1 slice of boiled ham (duxelle) Chicken extract 1 dl cooking cream 1 romanesco cabbage 1 cauliflower 1 green cabbage 10 brussels sprouts 1 red cabbage 1 kohlrabi hazelnut agar-agar mustard 2 shallots, 1 carrot, 1 herb bouquet, the green from 1 leek, 1 turnip, 1l water, 2 tomatoes (sauce) thyme agar-agar 10 g kuzu

Divide the cauliflower into florets and the cabbage into leaves, blanch and make a puree of the leaves. Make 200 g fine puree from the cauliflower florets, finish off with10 g kuzu and water, shape into balls and place in the freezer. Make a nice mound in an oyster shell and place on a panisse. Use the slivers of carrot, turnip, shallot and leek to make the sauce with some water, the tomatoes and thyme. Dry the leaves of the green cabbage and brussels sprouts in the microwave oven. Mix the heart and roots of the cabbages with the mustard and mix. Grate the kohlrabi and add the herbs and hazelnuts

Preparation Clean the fillet of hind, season and cook quickly. Open the oysters and create a vacuum together with the fillet of hind. Cook at 58 ° in the immersion heater. Centrifuge and ‘coller’ the red cabbage. Cook the chickpea flour, cool, cut with ‘emporte pièce’ and then deep-fry . Thicken the oyster gravy with the agar-agar and set aside to cool.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

XQuis

DOLCE ALWAYS BRINGS YOU THE HOTTEST NEWS! (PART 2) Maarten du Bois manages a fish wholesale company that supplies many star businesses. He is also a health coach and a passionate amateur cook who wants to know everything about the products he works with. In this DOLCE, he shares some of his extensive knowledge. Text: Maarten du Bois Photo: Shutterstock

When people talk about pepper, they are generally referring to the fruits of the pepper plant of the Piper genus that was discussed in detail in DOLCE8. Pepper, however, can also refer to the Capsicum genus, part of the nightshade family. It may sound strange, but potatoes and tomatoes are also part of this family.

Mojito sphère

Most Capsicums are most widely known as Spanish or red peppers, or even chilli pepper.

Ingredients

Preparation

140 g egg white 165 g sugar S2 1 lime 1 l water 650 g sugar 2 bundles of mint 6 g stabiliser 3 dl cream 40% 8 cl traditional amber rum 10 g sugar glucose isomalt fondant gold powder essential lemon tree oil

Beat the egg white with the sugar slowly increasing the speed. Grate the lemon zest and fold into the egg white using a soft plastic spatula (maryse). Place in a silicon mould and dry overnight in an oven at 80 °C. Mix the sugar and stabiliser, add the water and heat. Leave to cool until lukewarm, and add the mint tea (or an infusion of mint or herb tea with mint), strain through the pointed sieve and turbinate. Mix the rum, cream and sugar and place in the siphon. Mix the sugars, gold powder and essential oil, raise the temperature to 170 ° and finish in a ladle at 100 °

Recipes : Jean-Philippe Watteyne (iCook) Photos : Anthony Florio

come from. Even peppers from the same sort of supplier can vary in sharpness at different points in time. The time of year influences how hot they are. We love working with peppers in our restaurant, but our standard rule is to taste, taste and then taste again, because its easy to overdo things and before you know it, you have ruined a whole pan of sauce and you have to start all over again. My personal favourites are Jalapeño pepper from Mexico and Madame Jeanette from Suriname; the latter can be up to 30 times hotter than the first.”

All kinds of peppers have been used for as long as people can remember. We know that they were eagerly consumed by the Mayas and Aztecs. Columbus wrote in his travel journals that no dish was consumed without this seasoning.

Sergio Herman has a particular preference for Piment d’Espelette, which he adds to mayonnaise. This pepper grows in a small village called Espelette in the French Basque Country. These fiery red peppers are picked at the peak of their ripeness and have a characteristic, special perfume. This mild pepper is difficult to obtain fresh. It is most often available in as a powder, which is why Nick doesn’t use it often.

In black peppers, piperine is the substance that stimulates the heat sensors in the mouth; in the various varieties of Capsicum this effect is caused by the chemical substance capsaicin.

Fortunately, Piment d’Espellete is a protected product that is subject to strict production standards. The AOC label may only be used for 10 villages at the foot of the Pyrenees.

The Scoville scale is a handy tool that tells you how hot a type of pepper is. The original method for measuring hotness involved diluting the pepper with water until the heat was no longer detectable: nowadays capsaicin can be measured directly with a tool. Recently, the Bhut Jolokia lost its place in the Guinness Book of Records as the hottest pepper in the world. The Jolokia scores around one million units, while the new champion, the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion scores around 2 million.

Syrco Bakker from Pure C takes a very different approach. His Indonesian roots have given him a love of the many varieties of sambal, such as Boemboe Bali and Taotjo sambal, which he uses in his yellow soy bean sauce. In Indonesia, sambal is prepared with small, sharp peppers that are known as ‘Lomboks’.

“Of course, you can’t put blind faith in the Scoville scale”, said Nick Bril, chef of Oud Sluis. “You never know exactly which area the peppers

It is funny to see how these men, who all learnt their trade in Oud Sluis have such an individual approach to both type and quantity of peppers they like to use. However, they all share one thing in common: all three have a passion for pepper.

CHEF12 FOCUSES ON INNOVATION AND TOP GASTRONOMY

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

A catering fair that is like no other fair: it’s not mainstream, but it does have its finger on the pulse: CHEF10 and CHEF11 proved that it’s possible, and CHEF12 is the logical follow-up to their success. Text: Maarten du Bois Photos: KortrijkXpo

CHEF12 is not a typical trade fair: there is no bewildering mish-mash of stalls, each trying to outdo their competitors by being bigger and brighter. Instead, the stalls are all of the same design, and the only way for stallholders to stand out is by virtue of the quality and presentation of their products and their professional expertise. This is not the first time for organiser Patricia Huygelier from KortrijkXpo. She is the woman behind Tavola, the trade fair for fine and fresh food. CHEF12, is aimed at the restaurant sector in the broadest sense. It caters for restaurateurs, bistro and brasserie owners; but others from the hotel and catering world, such as cocktail shakers and baristas, are also more than welcome and are sure to find something to interest them. Rudi Van Beylen, from Hof ten Damme, says: “On my day off, I take the time to visit CHEF12. I see it as an excursion and always discover all sorts of fascinating things.” RELAXED CHEF12 is the perfect place to meet new contacts, exchange ideas and network in a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Visitors can enjoy special snacks and refreshing drinks while learning about all the latest developments in the hospitality industry. Instead of crowded stalls with hundreds of products, there are innovations and products from the top segment. The restaurant sector has been waiting for a specialist fair like this for a long time. One stall at the fair has been turned into a restaurant, where there will be a lot of activities involving food pairing. This year, the concept will be snacks, hence the name Snacky. These are no run-of the mill snacks though: hamburgers made with Wagyu beef, for example, are just one of the treats in store.

The chef who created these dishes is none other than Peter Coucquyt, awarded a Michelin star for Kasteel Withof, in Brasschaat, in 2008. Peter is co-director of Sense for Taste, and is also involved with the Flemish Primitives. He is extremely active in the field of innovation and product development for the food industry. CHEF12 chefs will be reproducing his creations perfectly at the stall. JONG KEUKENGEWELD CHEF12 promotes Flanders as an attractive culinary destination for both Belgians and visitors from abroad, providing a podium for the new generation of young Flemish top chefs. The project which has been given the exciting name of Jong Keukengeweld is holding an official press conference on Monday at 10.30. CHEF12, from 23 to 25 September in KortrijkXpo www.chefxpo.be

DOLCE TRENDS DAY Be sure not to miss the DOLCE Trends Day. It will take place at CHEF12 on 25 September from 10.30 to 12.00. The theme will be Energetic Belgian Bites. Ilse Duponcheel looks ahead to the new gastronomic trends in the world. Afterwards you have free entry to the fair. Presentation: Joyce De Troch Guest speaker: Peter Jonckheere, about food as medicine Energetic Belgian Bites by Nicolas Rivière

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

A FLYING BELGIAN WINE MAKER IN SOUTH AFRICA

ZOOM FRANK FOL APPOINTED PRESIDENT OF THE ASSOCIATION OF BELGIAN MASTERCHEFS The Association of Belgian Masterchefs is entering a new period. The new management team, led by President Frank Fol, has started to prepare a new impetus.

Shaun Crombé is living proof that Belgians can also make excellent wine. He settled in South Africa and set about personally getting the very best out of his grapes. Shaun Crombé Wines are made without chemical additives, but with a whole lot of love. And you can taste that. Text: Ilse Duponcheel and Eline Haesel Photos: Shaun Crombé Wines

The association was founded in 1980 on the initiative of Baron Pierre Romeyer, together with Pierre Wijnants, Jacques Deluc and Roger Souvereyns among others, who are considered the founding fathers of Belgian cuisine. After Romeyer the presidency was successively held by such famous chefs as Pierrot Fonteyne, Alain Deluc, Guy Van Cauteren, Robert Van Duuren. Frank Fol, the vegetable chef, was appointed President in May 2012.

CASUAL WORK

Two dogs ran out of what looked at first sight like an archaic farmhouse to stop us from getting out of the car. Luckily Shaun came swiftly to our help. This 23 year old Belgian winemaker attended a sport school and used to be a top swimmer. However, he wanted more out of life than swimming lengths and soon discovered that he was a born winemaker. We started off by tasting wine from the Natte Vallei estate while listening to a torrent of information. We sipped a Suikerbossie, which means Sugar or Darling in English. It is a lovely wine. The main thing we noticed about all the wines we tasted was their exceptional quality, but the playful labels also caught our eye. No chemical products have been added to these wines.

Next came the cherry on the cake – a visit to the cellar where the first self-made wines are stored in three new and three old casks. We were not allowed to see the labels, but we were allowed a taste. We tried a pinot noir, which is unusual for South Africa. Then it was time to see where the real work is done. We went to Oud Wellington, once a beautiful estate, but now totally neglected. We were shown the must for the next casks of wine….it had been crushed by hand. Shaun lovingly took a handful of must. He sleeps in a basic room beside his must so that he can turn it every 3 hours. Shaun does everything himself from crushing to bottling. Making wine is his life as well as his livelihood. This flying winemaker is set to conquer the world. www.shauncrombewines.com If you would like to learn more about Shaun Crombé and his wines, don’t miss the DOLCE Club’s wine tasting on 1 December 2012 at the Crombé’s house. There are more details later on in the magazine in the On the Menu section.

www.meesterkoks.be

THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT HAS MADE A DECISION ABOUT THE HORECA PLAN The Di Rupo Government has come to a decision about the so-called ‘Horeca plan’. It outlines measures in the margin of the introduction of the registered cash register in 2013. An overview of the measures.

It was raining cats and dogs when Shaun Crombé welcomed us to Natte Vallei on an autumnal day in South Africa. Finding the vineyard was not an easy task, but then again we had been warned that this vineyard is not on Stellenbosch’s wine route map.

A Masterchef is a craftsman, who only accepts the best quality, who respects his team, his manufacturers and his suppliers and who wishes to pamper his guests. A masterchef will do everything possible to hand down his knowledge to motivated employees and the next generations.

A new casual work system will be enforced which may be applied 100 days a year by an employer (for several extras). Under the new system an employee may work maximum 50 days a year. Under the new system the social contributions are calculated based on an hourly fixed wage of 7.5 euros/h with a maximum fixed wage per day of 45 euros. The employer will also withhold 33% of this wage, as advance levy, meaning the employee will not be taxed on the net amount. The working hours of the extras who are used per hour will probably also have to be registered. If the employer opts for a daily fixed wage, he or she only needs to record the employee’s presence. This measure needs to be elaborated in more detail however. The measure is set to be enforced on 1 January 2013.

STUDENT WORKERS Currently student workers may work up 50 days a year. However, when a student worker works a few hours, he is always registered as having worked a full day. The Government has decided that students can now work 100 half days instead of 50 days. TAX REDUCTION Hospitality businesses (i.e., restaurants and cafés) employing fewer than 20 employees will receive a fixed tax reduction on their social contributions for maximum five employees. This reduction amounts to 500 euros per employee per quarter. If the employee is under 26 then an 800 euro tax reduction will be granted. This means that enterprises with up to 20 employees can receive an annual discount of 10 to 16,000 euros on their social contributions. On the one hand these decisions about casual work and student work will improve the situation for many a business in this industry. On the other hand the tax reduction for permanent employees is quite limited in view of the challenges that the industry faces when the registered cash register has to be imposed.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

OBSERVED

AGENDA

ON THE MENU

ICE-CREAM SWEETENED WITH STEVIA

MUSSELS WITH THE ‘BELGIAN QUALITY’ LABEL

In recent months a lot has been written about the stevia plant’s sweetening power. This is logic because any sweetener which is lowcalorie but which is not associated with the unhealthy aspects of other sweeteners is always a hit with consumers and food manufacturers alike. Big multinationals are now launching soft drinks, chocolate and much more using stevia as an ingredient.

Shellfish company Roem van Yerseke is now launching mussels featuring the ‘Belgian Quality’ label. These are large Zeeland mussels, with a maximum meat weight. The name of the label was chosen because Belgian products tend to have a gourmet image.

But smaller companies are also experimenting with this plant. Just Ice has been working for quite some time to develop ice-cream which contains stevia. There is a reason for this because you need to learn how to incorporate stevia in your products. The Ice Crime range has all the benefits of stevia as well as a pure, natural taste. Now diabetics can also enjoy an ice-cream.

7 October 11.00 to 15.00 – Olive oil tasting with Cocktail & menu Location: Business club The NeWS, Atletenlaan 3, 1020 Brussel Programme: You will taste olive oil and learn about its use, qualities, flavours and shelf life, under the expert guidance of Olivier Cattry of Go Shop Olive Oil. We will end the day with an olive oil cocktail created by Bartenders-on-the-Road. Afterwards, you can enjoy a three course menu, a unique creation by chef Nicolas Rivière, with accompanying wines from Château Castigno and of course, mineral water from BRU. Cost: DOLCE Club members: € 68, non members: € 86 Registration: administratie@dolcemagazine.be or +32 473 967 444

Ice Crime is a creamy, tasty consumer ice-cream, using only the best ingredients, without added sugars. Just Ice positions itself as a qualitative ice-cream manufacturer, specialising in niche markets instead of in traditional ice-cream. They manufacture a range of lactose-free ice-cream, genever-based icecream, and so on.

1 December 10.45 to 15.00 – South Africa Tasting by Shaun Crombé

Phone +32 (0)475 31 15 11, info@just-ice.be, www.just-ice.be YARMO MULLER We hope that you were able to find your way to this magnificent culinary centre in Roeselare; if not, you should do soon. The least you can say about Yarmo Muller is that he is an enterprising person. At the tender age of 25, he has already set up an impressive business with a restaurant, food and equipment shop, catering, private cooking and very popular workshops. Yarmo Muller, Beverse Steenweg 178, 8800 Roeselare, tel. 051/43 63 91, www.yarmomuller.be

Location: Crombé Wines, Engelsewandeling 11, 8500 Kortrijk Programme: This South Africa tasting is led by the Flying Belgian winemaker Shaun Crombé. You will be tasting the unique wines of Shaun Crombé and Boer & Brit. After this tasting, you can enjoy a luxurious delicatessen buffet with the finest terrines, cheeses… Please note: places are limited! Cost: DOLCE Club members: € 36, non members: € 58 Registration: administratie@dolcemagazine.be or +32 473 967 444

28-31 January 2013 – EXCLUSIVE OFFER – Attend La Bocuse d’Or Lyon DOLCE is attention with Robrecht Wissels (chef Belgocatering) Location: Flight from Zaventem airport - Lyon (return) Programme (included in the price): Flight features included in B Flex price: Fast Lane, lounges at Zaventem, snack + drink on board, newspaper on board, access to the lounges in Zaventem. • Transfer from airport to hotel and back • Welcome drink at the hotel • 3 nights on the basis of a room and breakfast in hotel Cour des Loges or hotel de la Cité - Concorde • Transfer from hotel to Eurexpo and back on 29/01/13 & 30/01/13 • 1 x 5 course dinner in hotel Cour des Loges, including house wine, water and coffee/tea + visit to the kitchen and opportunity to talk to the chef • 1 x 3 course dinner in hotel de la Cité - Concorde including house wine, water and coffee/tea + visit to the kitchen and opportunity to talk to the chef Not included in the price: • Meals that are not mentioned • Cancellation and/or assistance insurance. Prices: 1.) Hotel Cour des Loges ***** • Chambre classique: € 1,953 p.p. on the basis of a double room • Chambre supérieure: € 2,1430 p.p. on the basis of a double room • Chambre classique single: € 2,456 on the basis of a single room 2) Hotel de la Cité - Concorde **** • Chambre classique: € 1,623 p.p. on the basis of a double room • Chambre classique single: € 1,777 p.p. on the basis of a single room PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY AT THE TIME OF BOOKING AND ARE THEREFORE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME Registration: administratie@dolcemagazine. be of +32 (0)473 967 444 • Your registration will be definitive only after you have paid 60% of the total price. Organised with the license of Mare Tours.

JOIN THE DOLCE CLUB AND RECIEVE 175 EURO DOLCE IN GIFT VOUCHERS AND MORE… passie voor de belgische gastronomie

2011-2012

MEMBERSHIP OF DOLCE gives you the following benefits: • Your personalised ‘member’ card gives you access to ISPC wholesalers so that you always have access to the largest specialities markets in Europe • You will be given priority when registering for events organised by DOLCE When you show your DOLCE – member card we will give you an overview of our ambassadors • Adek - www.adek.be 150 euro discount on purchases from 1500 euro • Bacchus Wine & Spirits - www.bacchus-knokke.be If you purchase 5 bottles, you will receive one bottle free • Brasserie ’t Kaaigat - www.kaaigat.nl free aperitif snack – special oyster depending on the season • Château Castigno - www.chateaucastigno.com 1 bottle Castigno Rosé Brut free when you buy 12 bottles of the same kind & ice bucket Château Castigno • Crombé - www.crombewines.com Whisky tasting of at least min. 6 malt whiskeys • Dock’s Café – free Docks - www.docks.be Cookbook with dinner for two people • Feestzaal Rustenburg - www.rustenburg.be free Irish Coffee • Hilton Antwerp - www.hilton.com upgrade to executive floor (for any weekend with 1 or 2 night booking)

• Igadi / South Africa - www.olivegardenlodge.com free aperitif and 20 % discount on your stay and a free bottle of premium olive oil • Il Trionfo - www.iltrionfo.be free glass of prosecco • ISPC - www.ispc-int.com Gift voucher worth 25 euro with purchases from 150 euro • Restaurant Boury - www.restaurantboury.be free amuse

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

PAST ACTIVITIES OF THE DOLCE CLUB 17 to 20 May – Gent Smaakt! – DOLCE Epicurian Kids Club empowered by the Food Academy Location: Leopoldkazerne, 9000 Ghent Programme: This healthy, playful concept brought parents and children together to enjoy delicious food in a fun atmosphere. Parents were spoiled with Belgian Bites while the children were served Kiddy Bites. This event was organised in support of Forward Haiti, which wants to build a Food Academy kitchen. 10 June – 45° Northern Wine Fair Location: Elzenveld, Lange Gasthuisstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp Programme: Belgian Wines and Savino organised the 45° Northern Wine Fair for the first time. This coordinating quality fair focuses on the concept of northern wine. Only a few select partners were allowed to associate their name and image with this innovative concept, including DOLCE Magazine. 30 June & 1 July – tasting ‘les amis de Château Castignol Location: Klokhof Loppem, Zeedijkweg 20, Loppem Programme: We tasted the new selection from Château Castigno before enjoying a repas vigneron to the musical accompaniment of the Polder Cowboys.

• Restaurant De Goedendag - www.degoedendag.be Discount on the week : you will pay 45 euro for the 52 euro menu • Restaurant De Savoye - www.desavoye.be free aperitif • Restaurant Elkerlijc - www.elckerlijc.be special jar of bbq seasoning • Restaurant ER PU.RE - www.erpure.be free tea or coffee after dinner • Restaurant iCook - www.traiteuricook.com Surprise box with special creation by the chef • Gastronomie du Mayeur - www.gastronomiedumayeur.be Free aperitif • Les Roches Grises – www.lesrochesgrises.be Free aperitif

MORE INFORMATION INFO@DOLCEMAGAZINE.BE - TELEPHONE +32 473 967 444 JOIN ONLINE - WWW.DOLCEMAGAZINE.BE/WINKEL

MEET DE DOLCE LADIES Starting September 2012, after DOLCE Magazine and Dolce Club, you can also get to know the Dolce Ladies. Dolce Ladies is a TV feature broadcast on Actua-TV and in streaming. The Dolce Ladies are Ilse Duponcheel – who is in charge of DOLCE broadcasts as well as being a trendwatcher, Katia Belloy, editor-in-chief of DOLCE Magazine, and Joyce De Troch, the wellknown media personality with a really wide range of interests and a penchant for good food. In fact, food subjects pop up all the time in the programme and sometimes the Ladies get cooking with politicians and captains of industry. We’ll keep you posted about Dolce Ladies via Twitter, Facebook and www.dolcemagazine.be.

DOLCE PASSIE VOOR PASSION FORDE THE BELGISCHE BELGIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMIE

DOLCE ACCOMPANIES CHEF ROBRECHT WISSELS TO THE BOCUSE D’OR IN LYONS And you can join them! We will stay over at the five-star Cour des Loges hotel. We will also have dinner in the hotel’s starred restaurant. Obviously, we will also return home with a Bocuse d’Or. That is exactly why we will be there to cheer for Robrecht Wissels. You can find all details at www.dolcemagazine.be and by clicking through to DOLCE Travel.

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KEUKENS

COOKING

TRAVELLING

GOURMET

PASSION

tasting

ISSN 2294-0264 09

772294 026004

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